Hello! Thank you for commenting. At this time we do not have a video specifically about replacing the valve springs. However, we do have a great tool for easy removal of the valve springs on our site that makes it super easy to remove and replace the springs. We have added a note to our production list to make a video on how to do this, and we appreciate the suggestion! In the meantime, give us a call or email anytime and we can walk you through the process.
What type of thread compounds do you use in each step? Here you didn't appear to use any, but I've heard anti-seize on the header bolts, and blue loctite other places. Any thoughts?
Hey Josh! Good questions. Personally, I don't use any compounds on the head bolts - I probably should, but they come in the packaging from Briggs with some lubrication already there, and from the factory there is typically anti-seize within the head bolt threads in the short block. The blue loctite we use on the clutch retainer bolt - other than that we do not use any loctite on the engine. Some folks will use anti-seize on the exhaust header bolts as well, but I don't recommend this personally. I hope these thoughts help!
Are you still making these videos? Please keep going! I need help on 206 and you have the best videos out there. Now my main question is why would you replace the cylinder head? Is maintenance on the 206 mostly just repairing? Or is there any tuning we can do to make it perform optimally? I know setting the valve lash is vital for optimal performance but... yeah im lost. Thank you for an awesome video
Hey Carl! Thank you for reaching out to us! We want to make more videos, trust us! We have been swamped with orders and business on the retail side of Point Karting, we intend to make more videos shortly! Replacing the cylinder head is great when the engine falls off in performance and you aren't comfortable with lapping the valves or more advanced maintenance, or if you bend a push rod, or strip the threads on the cylinder head for the exhaust header bolts - these are the most common reasons...Maintenance on the 206 involves some routine items as well as more intervale-d items - we have a document for our racers that goes through a lot of this. Feel free to reach out to us at pointkarting@gmail.com for this document! Chat soon!
Hey Blake! Great question! I have a few torque wrenches we've collected over time, but in this particular video we are using a Pittsburgh 1/2" drive torque wrench. Looking online, looks like we probably got this at Harbor Freight (I've had it for years so memory is a little foggy but best guess) - Here is a link to it online! www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63882.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+Top+SKUs+-+All+%28Branded%29|Water+Pump|63882&*PLA+-+Top+SKUs+-+All+%28Branded%29&Water+Pump&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6t6ABhDMARIsAONIYyyuhHP92SCcUbc3ZDR-DfY4nH8fu5VxnHpAfS07v-r4emEw3bWeChcaAhRdEALw_wcB
@Titan Town great question! Likely you have your valve lash set on the wrong stroke. Make sure when you set your valve lash after replacing the head that you did so on the cycle between the intake and the compression / combustion stroke. Having a hard-to-pull / start engine is a common symptom of that. Let us know if this helps with your problem, and reach out to us again anytime you have questions!
Eric, You may want to edit your video. The bolts that attach the cylinder head to the short block, are not lag bolts. You referred to them as lag bolts when you removed the cylinder head and installed the new one? Lag bolts are used in wood!!! Also why replace the entire head? Valve guides can be replaced, and while your at it install new valves, springs, retainers and locks after you’ve touched up the valve seats. A seasoned cylinder head is more stable than a new one, which has not been heat cycled. A new cylinder head will still distort some, and that is where the problem with leak down occurs is around the valve seats, resulting in a loss of power. If you don’t have the capability to touch up the valve seats, send them to me and I will gladly do them for you. Otherwise nice video.
Rich Nelson thank you for the feedback. This particular engine has been a “problem child” in our shop for quite some time. In my experience, replacing the valve guides in these engines does not result in a positive outcome, as the guides tend to slip in place with these heads. If you’ve had a different outcome, that’s great, but we are attempting to demonstrate what several of our customers have requested a demonstration of. For most racers, replacing the assembly is going to be a more useful demonstration, as they will often need to remove and inspect the head in tech - furthermore the head gasket is a replacement part as well due to a regulation governing the thickness, as there are only so many times one can tighten the head down prior to the gasket becoming too thin to use legally. I find your comment interesting regarding the seasoning of the cylinder head, I’ll have to do some more research there, but that makes sense regarding stability, so thank you for that! I’ve always called long bolts like that lag bolts, so I’ll try and be more accurate in the future - must’ve been a term I picked up over time. Thank you for your feedback on our video! Recall that these videos are being created to bring informative guides to racers who deserve to have the ability to do these maintenance items themselves. If you’d like to join us for an additional video on refreshing a cylinder head, which is somewhat a different topic, you are certainly welcome to!
@@PointKarting I do an average of 10 cylinder heads a week in my shop. The exhaust valve guide is the biggest power killer in these engines. If the guide is worn you will not get good valve seal and therefore lose power. These guides are made of sintered steel which is pressed powder. They wear quite fast on the hardened valve stem. To do this right, the guides should be pressed out.....not hammered. The guide bore should be checked for straightness. The new guide should be reamed to .2485 in a lathe. then honed. Install the new guide with a press. Now, you will have to cut the valve seat to match the valve. This is critical for a perfect valve seal. Lap the valve with a medium grit compound. Clean very well and assemble. Great video. why replace the head when you have one already heat cycled.
@@BM-xc9sq Thank you for the comment and the insight! Replacing the valve guide certainly makes sense -I think for many racers this may be beyond their service capability, but definitely a good suggestion and note worth outlining! Briggs does sell the guides, and the average racer could do this procedure - we created this video to show racers how to replace the new head assembly, which is a little more within the realm for most, we have found. Email us at pointkarting@gmail.com if you want to chat more about head work on the Briggs 206!
@Titan Town not really sure! Great question to which I would say overall the the engine is *mostly* metric tools to use. There are some engines out there that have a "US SAE" set of rocker arm supports / adjusters, but most modern 206 are metric throughout. Of course, any standard size tool can also be substituted for (theoretically) the equivalent metric. I guess as I have worked on these engines I have found a couple SAE tools that are best for use instead of metric tools in certain areas.
I appreciate how you explain every step and gear this towards novice karters like myself. Your videos keep me on the track. Awesome
Helpful video, especially the close ups.
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful. Let us know if you have any questions!
Do you have a video that illustrates changing out intake and exhaust springs when they wear out?
Hello! Thank you for commenting. At this time we do not have a video specifically about replacing the valve springs. However, we do have a great tool for easy removal of the valve springs on our site that makes it super easy to remove and replace the springs. We have added a note to our production list to make a video on how to do this, and we appreciate the suggestion! In the meantime, give us a call or email anytime and we can walk you through the process.
What type of thread compounds do you use in each step? Here you didn't appear to use any, but I've heard anti-seize on the header bolts, and blue loctite other places. Any thoughts?
Hey Josh! Good questions. Personally, I don't use any compounds on the head bolts - I probably should, but they come in the packaging from Briggs with some lubrication already there, and from the factory there is typically anti-seize within the head bolt threads in the short block. The blue loctite we use on the clutch retainer bolt - other than that we do not use any loctite on the engine. Some folks will use anti-seize on the exhaust header bolts as well, but I don't recommend this personally. I hope these thoughts help!
Are you still making these videos? Please keep going! I need help on 206 and you have the best videos out there. Now my main question is why would you replace the cylinder head? Is maintenance on the 206 mostly just repairing? Or is there any tuning we can do to make it perform optimally? I know setting the valve lash is vital for optimal performance but... yeah im lost. Thank you for an awesome video
Hey Carl! Thank you for reaching out to us! We want to make more videos, trust us! We have been swamped with orders and business on the retail side of Point Karting, we intend to make more videos shortly! Replacing the cylinder head is great when the engine falls off in performance and you aren't comfortable with lapping the valves or more advanced maintenance, or if you bend a push rod, or strip the threads on the cylinder head for the exhaust header bolts - these are the most common reasons...Maintenance on the 206 involves some routine items as well as more intervale-d items - we have a document for our racers that goes through a lot of this. Feel free to reach out to us at pointkarting@gmail.com for this document! Chat soon!
@@PointKarting thank you thank you❤️ good luck with everything
What brand of torque wrench are you using? I’m having a hard time finding one
Hey Blake! Great question! I have a few torque wrenches we've collected over time, but in this particular video we are using a Pittsburgh 1/2" drive torque wrench. Looking online, looks like we probably got this at Harbor Freight (I've had it for years so memory is a little foggy but best guess) - Here is a link to it online! www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63882.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+Top+SKUs+-+All+%28Branded%29|Water+Pump|63882&*PLA+-+Top+SKUs+-+All+%28Branded%29&Water+Pump&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6t6ABhDMARIsAONIYyyuhHP92SCcUbc3ZDR-DfY4nH8fu5VxnHpAfS07v-r4emEw3bWeChcaAhRdEALw_wcB
I just replaced the cylinder head on my 206 now it is very hard to pull. What should i look for? Thanks.
@Titan Town great question! Likely you have your valve lash set on the wrong stroke. Make sure when you set your valve lash after replacing the head that you did so on the cycle between the intake and the compression / combustion stroke. Having a hard-to-pull / start engine is a common symptom of that. Let us know if this helps with your problem, and reach out to us again anytime you have questions!
@@PointKarting so i think i set the exhaust on the wrong stroke and it was too loose and not engaging the compression release.
Thanks!
@@TitanTown Sounds like your cause right there!
Eric, You may want to edit your video. The bolts that attach the cylinder head to the short block, are not lag bolts. You referred to them as lag bolts when you removed the cylinder head and installed the new one? Lag bolts are used in wood!!!
Also why replace the entire head? Valve guides can be replaced, and while your at it install new valves, springs, retainers and locks after you’ve touched up the valve seats.
A seasoned cylinder head is more stable than a new one, which has not been heat cycled. A new cylinder head will still distort some, and that is where the problem with leak down occurs is around the valve seats, resulting in a loss of power.
If you don’t have the capability to touch up the valve seats, send them to me and I will gladly do them for you. Otherwise nice video.
Rich Nelson thank you for the feedback. This particular engine has been a “problem child” in our shop for quite some time. In my experience, replacing the valve guides in these engines does not result in a positive outcome, as the guides tend to slip in place with these heads. If you’ve had a different outcome, that’s great, but we are attempting to demonstrate what several of our customers have requested a demonstration of. For most racers, replacing the assembly is going to be a more useful demonstration, as they will often need to remove and inspect the head in tech - furthermore the head gasket is a replacement part as well due to a regulation governing the thickness, as there are only so many times one can tighten the head down prior to the gasket becoming too thin to use legally. I find your comment interesting regarding the seasoning of the cylinder head, I’ll have to do some more research there, but that makes sense regarding stability, so thank you for that! I’ve always called long bolts like that lag bolts, so I’ll try and be more accurate in the future - must’ve been a term I picked up over time. Thank you for your feedback on our video! Recall that these videos are being created to bring informative guides to racers who deserve to have the ability to do these maintenance items themselves. If you’d like to join us for an additional video on refreshing a cylinder head, which is somewhat a different topic, you are certainly welcome to!
@@PointKarting I do an average of 10 cylinder heads a week in my shop. The exhaust valve guide is the biggest power killer in these engines. If the guide is worn you will not get good valve seal and therefore lose power. These guides are made of sintered steel which is pressed powder. They wear quite fast on the hardened valve stem. To do this right, the guides should be pressed out.....not hammered. The guide bore should be checked for straightness. The new guide should be reamed to .2485 in a lathe. then honed. Install the new guide with a press. Now, you will have to cut the valve seat to match the valve. This is critical for a perfect valve seal. Lap the valve with a medium grit compound. Clean very well and assemble. Great video. why replace the head when you have one already heat cycled.
@@BM-xc9sq Thank you for the comment and the insight! Replacing the valve guide certainly makes sense -I think for many racers this may be beyond their service capability, but definitely a good suggestion and note worth outlining! Briggs does sell the guides, and the average racer could do this procedure - we created this video to show racers how to replace the new head assembly, which is a little more within the realm for most, we have found. Email us at pointkarting@gmail.com if you want to chat more about head work on the Briggs 206!
Why use a mix of standard and metric? Briggs should step into the present and use all metric.
@Titan Town not really sure! Great question to which I would say overall the the engine is *mostly* metric tools to use. There are some engines out there that have a "US SAE" set of rocker arm supports / adjusters, but most modern 206 are metric throughout. Of course, any standard size tool can also be substituted for (theoretically) the equivalent metric. I guess as I have worked on these engines I have found a couple SAE tools that are best for use instead of metric tools in certain areas.