Jared over here loves his Titan, but looks like now everyone is an expert in the comments telling him how "bad and unreliable it is", FFS, just let the man enjoy his truck! He is the only one who know how good it has been to him! Let people enjoy what they want!
Its been good to him because he takes care of it and respects it. Other people abuse and dont maintain their vehicles and when they break down they are "junk". No fools its called a owners manual. Open it up and go to the scheduled maintenance section.
@@fansoffast5909 Tbh just search for Audi multitronic and watch the forums full of retards that didn't do the proper maintenance on their car and now it fails. One of my family member has an Audi multitronic with 300k km that works like new.
@@TedSchoenling Its not just Nissan or the Titan. Go look at any group FOrd,Chevy,Toyota or Ram and they all have issues. Guys on there complaining everyday about their trucks breaking down. Been driving Nissan all my life and never had any major issues. I have a Titan XD Pro4X now and if it breaks i have 100000 mile warranty. No worries
I’ve been watching this channel since almost the beginning and it’s nice to see Jared really become more polished. Really starting to develop his own style, his own personality. Always enjoy watching the channel!!!!
I dont have a 10lb mallet, it would be nice though. I have a 2.5lb sledge "baby thor" and map gas. I tried propane for a long time and many times it took a long tome to get thing to break free. Even before i got baby thor and i had bigger "hammers". Since switching to map gas, baby thor or a big flat head screwdriver (depending on what im doing) has worked great. That just what i like to use now. Although a 5 or 10lber would be more "persuasive" than my 2.5lber.
Part of why I don't trust shops to do my brake jobs. Most will skip all the cleaning and lubrication steps. They just pull and swap, and likely don't follow any torque specs either. I'd rather do it right myself.
@@CrystalAced I thought the same actually, hah. I have caught a boot trying to clean chunks of rust off at least a few times and it's always big sad. Careful... Careful... DAMN IT!
If you need to "top off" your brake fluid either A: You have no pads left (all the fluid is in the calipers/wheel cylinders) or B: You have a leak. Either way they need servicing ASAP. You should NEVER have to top off brake fluid. It's a closed hydraulic system. Any "mechanic" that attempts to top off your brake fluid is one I would never visit again.
@@jakebmw you can thank pennzoil or or some other "quick lube" type place for that. I used to manage a quick lube, and topping off the brake fluid was a "courtesy" they provided, until I put a stop to it. Side note; Take you car to an actual repair shop for your oil changes. They charge about the same, but ACTUAL mechanics are doing the job - PROPERLY, and often will do a courtesy inspection of tires, brakes, steering, and suspension.
Not all reservoirs are 100% sealed. You're right about having a leak or need to do a brake job, but brake fluid does have a boiling point. If the driver abuses their brakes very very trace amounts can evaporate through the seal of the cap.
Just got 140k on my Titan XD, did my first brake and rotor job! I’m shocked mine lasted as long as they did. I don’t tow and most of my Miles’s are highway, so that’s probably why they lasted so long. The 5.0 Cummins has been an incredible truck. ❤️
I just use a bungee cord to hold up my calibers. Also, if you open your brake fluid reservoir, (leave the cap on though, just unscrew and leave it over the hole) you'll have an easier time pushing your pistons back in.
@@Ausblack how you figure? Working with a bleeder valve that may or may not be seized up, squeezing fluid out, x4 for all 4 wheels (or 2 if you're just doing the front) versus unscrewing 1 cap and allowing all the fluid to back up into the reservoir so you don't have to add brake fluid when you're done?
@@iamthecheese2737 if your changing your brakes then you should change your brake fluid, the amount of garbage that ends up in your calipers would surprise you. If the bleeder is stuck then its a problem that needs to be fixed not bypassed. Also a bit of Teflon tape on the bleeder helps with siezing and stops air or fluid leaking past
@@Ausblack if the bleeder is stuck then yes, there could be a problem..... Or if your car has spent more than one winter in the north, then it's just salt. And changing your brake fluid for every brake job is not necessary. Once again, I'm merely referring to where it was said it was easier to use the bleeder, not what's more proper.
Nice shoutout to those in the rust belts. I know at least one channel constantly running into rust issues. "There's your problem lady". Was waiting for the sound when Brake Clean was used. Forgot which channel I was on.
Between Jarid, The Car Ninja and The Car Wizard, (The 3 wise men of RUclips car repair) I am learning everything I always wanted to know about when to wrench and when not to wrench, and most importantly how to wrench. Thank you for another great video.
I second the recommendation for South Main Auto. That man is a rare specimen, honest, detailed, thorough, and highly educational. Maybe not as polished as the "glam" car channels the OP mentioned, but much, much more useful and detailed.
Love this channel. You guys work good together.. I've been a mechanic here in Australia for 29yrs now. And learnt a few good tips from this channel. Thanks heaps mate. Love your work and channel
As a kid, one of my first brake jobs I had no idea what I was doing. I knew which way to turn the wrench, and that was about it. I never lubed the slide pins, nor did I clean the rotor of packing oil. Needless to say I ended up having to take it to a shop because the vibration and shaking felt like the whole front end was going to rip out every time I went near the brake pedal. It wasn't until i started watching "do it yourself" type of shows (this was WAY before RUclips) that I learned what I had done wrong. Such a "simple job", but many nuances that will trip you up if not done properly.
Not sure why I watched this video(cuz I have done all of this maintenance myself for years) I was always scared to even find out what the dealership charged. 400 bucks for just the filters…F..k! Now it just so happens that that same rear window has stopped working on mine. I’ve been meaning to check it out, but I had to put the old girl on a diet first. Probably gonna look into it now. I never really NEEDED to roll that window down, which is why I haven’t messed with it yet. You got me motivated now. The diet was a big job. That window is the only thing that doesn’t work at the moment. Thanks for the tips.
Cleaning the mating surface behind the rotor and around the hub centric area is very important. Years ago I did a brake job 3 times on my wife's car (in 2 months) and kept getting SEVERE vibration during high speed braking. Took me a while to notice the debris and rust causing the rotor to not sit dead flat. Scotch bright or wire brush the area ALWAYS, just in case
I usually never buy sponsored items, but between the Wrench videos, the Vinwiki Ed videos, and the $25 for the ceramic coating, I decided to go ahead and try some out for my Jeep. I wish I could do the Jag, but that one needs a new paintjob due to clearcoat failure. I can't wait!!
I keep a couple of large syringes in my toolbox for removing excess brake from the master cylinder reservoir. There cheap and you can get them in and agricultural farm store where they keep medical supplies for livestock. Just the syringe you don't need any needles. I've found them to be useful for all sorts of jobs.
I was told before you squeeze the piston back. Open the bleeder, get rid of old fluid that has been in the calipers going thru the heat and cool cycle. Top off master with fresh brake fluid. Like a mini brake fluid change for the calipers.
4 года назад+17
Torque spec = enough. Or as we say in Sweden, "lagom" 🤣😆
When I replace brake parts, I ALWAYS clean everything related. Nothing worse than working in filth and putting brand NEW parts on a filthy vehicle. I also make sure the centre of the rotor is painted and that the Hub is CLEAN. I like how you are doing this.
I do believe he is suggesting to clean the rims with Armor Shield IX by AvalonKing with a special $25 discount, which probably isn't a bad idea to clean the back of the rims while they're off. Probably doing the ceramic coating might help to keep dust off, or make it easier to keep clean. But I also had/have the same question.
He's referring to the cleaning of the hub where the rotor interfaces. I guess it's common to just throw new rotors on without cleaning the grit off the hub.
Going to an automotive trade school after highschool was a decision I've never regretted. Although I no longer work as a mechanic I still save money doing the vast majority of services on my own vehicle to this day.
“Wheels-off detailing.” With a ferrous wheel cleaner and proper brushes you can always reach the end of the barrels. Black rags and the plastic handles on Wheel Woolies work when caliper clearance is minimal.
I've been told that if the brakes have an ABS system that you should not press the fluid back through it to the reservoir it has the potential to damage the ABS system. You should open the bleeder when pressing the piston's open and then fill the reservoir after doing each side. Normally there is no need to bleed the brakes as long as the reservoir doesn't go dry.
@@gnhun101 Nope. Not sure how you could "push" air into the system when you pushing fluid out. Open the bleeder when you start compressing the piston and close it when the piston is fully open, before taking the clamp off.
Are you using a speed bleeder? Or one way check valve? "Push" is the wrong word. You are more likely to introduce air into the system bleeding fluid off the caliper. How would pushing fluid back to the abs or master cylinder damage it?
@@gnhun101 I have no idea how pushing fluid back through the ABS system, with the car off, could damage it I'm not an engineer. Opening the the brake piston is absolutely pushing the fluid, it's definitely not pulling it. I just connect a hose to the bleeder screw that runs into a bottle. If you are really concerned about getting air in the system you could also put some fluid in the jar and have the hose below the level of the fluid to be doubly sure no air can enter.
Jared really needs the Rob Dahm GoPro chest cam setup so he can use both hands. Or maybe working on cars is too easy for him so he has to turn it up to hard mode haha.
I don't know why I never thought to press the brakes after each wheel to prevent possible overflows, but that makes a ton of sense to me after hearing it.
i have a 2009 Frontier. the driver side window motor did the same thing. there is a shaft with a gear on it that gets cock-eyed and is unfixable. $25 if you order and fix yourself. it's typically not the switch.
I've dealt with similar things to that rear window motor with robotics. input and out put sensing remembers positioning when an error occurs and so you must manually move the robots position before it will re home. same thing goes with a lot of stuff that's automated.
And Please put a foot Note to say if you push fluid or brake piston back one at a time you pop the other piston and could set your ABS light on your dash and have to get it Reset . And if you have the turn type of piston a flat bar that fits the slot and turn and push back as you go with vice grips on the bar saves buying tools to do the job , the only other thing i would add is take the brake cap so it just sits on the Reservoir Not screwed down .
Tip most brake fluid ( mineral oil) breaks down when in contact with moisture. water so if you do have a spill of brake fluid you can clean it up with just plain water the fluid will breakdown and wipe up easily. But warning caution do not get water in your brake system moisture will destroy it
Speaking of rust and brakes, I did brakes on a 2011 Volvo XC60 and it took my an hour to beat the rotors off of the hubs due to the rust that rust is no joke make sure you clean your hubs
If you take a standard screwdriver and place it between the old pad and the rotor and pry you will compressed the cylinder and the caliper will come right off simple and easy and go back on just as easy with no bleeding of the brakes or exposing assistant to air
Happened to me, sadly. I had a weird vibration which lead me down the wrong rabbithole and got me to align the car, balance all the tires and replace all the hardware in the front without anything helping. Then i realized it COULD be that simple and cleaned all contact surfaces, remounted the wheels and bam! No more vibrations! :)
Looks like he balanced the wheels before the cleaners got there. Movie magic. He had a stick on and a clip on before then when the guys got their. Magically it had all stick ons lll
On some cars the whole job is easier if you compress the pistons back into the caliper before you disassemble anything, as soon as you remove the wheel, compress the pistons.
I don't top up my master cylinder, if it looks low and I don't have any leaks, I change the brake pads and the level comes back up. another indicator of brake wear if you will.
I may be wrong but i know brake cleaner dissolves my rubber/latex gloves almost instantly. Cant imagine its very good for the rubber brake piston seals/sleeves!
Jared, I would love a video (or just a comment if it is that simple) about how to handle various shop fluids. Oil is obviously very easy to recycle at any auto parts store. Does literally everything else get thrown out? I've had jugs of radiator/brake/transmission fluid sitting around forever.
brake and atf are just oils, sling em in with your motor oil, theyll take it and it dont matter 1 bit. as for coolant? if its modern OATS coolant -which most is these days, down the toilet is fine- not the drain, the TOILET - IT needs to go into the sewer, not the environment and many drains just run off into the environment.
@@deadprivacy thanks for the info. I don't think I'll ever feel comfortable pouring automotive fluids down the drain and/or toilet but I'll definitely combine my brake and atf with my oil going forward.
I think its important to mention that the c-clamp trick, doesn't work with all breaks becaus some of them require to be twisted as well (e.G. VW Eurovan)
Not much of a problem this is mostly with just the rear calipers anyways which you can twist with flat heads or needle nose pliers. But I will admit it is important to know as most people will force it when it’s a twist.
Let me guess anti seize on aluminum wheels? Brake caliper grease? Cause i do that everytime as ive had siezed wheels bolts etc. Also never run metallic based front pads with good wheels. The dust rusts on the wheel and can ruin it. Spend the extra and get ceramic based pads
A little heads up on brake pistons. On Hyundais and Kias at least. The brake pistons needs to be turned in. They've got tiny notches where you slot in a specific tool, or a suitably sized set of needle nosed pliers, to turn the piston. If you try to push it in you will ruin them.
Hi Jared, thank you very much for your videos, could please make a tutorial with the quantities and torque on changing the transmission fluid and filter on a 2018 titan xd 4prox diesel . Thanks once again
Also worth noting, a lot of the anti-rust shit they put on new brake disks will NOT be removed fully by brake cleaner and a rag, you have to use soapy water. Check the instructions.
I am very easy on brakes. I have a 2002 TrailBlazer and got about 160,000 on my last set of front pads. When I put them in not long after I bought the SUV used I got top of the line pads. Besides buying quality pads my secret to longevity is in my driving habits. I am rarely ever towing anything, so there is not that stress on the brakes, but mainly I drive so that I do not have to use my brakes very much. I leave a good following distance, so there very few quick stops. Also, I pay attention to street lights ahead of me, and if they change to red I slow down enough to try and time them so that they turn green just before, or as I approach them. My brakes last very long, so I must be doing it right. I see many people rushing up to red lights just to have to stop a but hard, and that is harder on the brakes and fuel economy.
So no love for your vehicle, huh. I have performance brakes so i can stoop just before the crash, run that light, or pass on the right. with so little use, your brakes just may fail on you.
Had an 07 Ridgeline that I knew it was getting close to time on rear pads, it never squealed, the outside pad wore through to the backing pad, already had pads but the floating caliper biased to the pad that didn't have a squealer...
What do you use to stop the squeal after you put new pads on. Mine were quiet for about a month but now when I come to a slow slow stop they will squeal a little. Annoying AF.
I put anti seize on the back of the rotor when I put it on so when I replace them the next time they come right off. Obviously, not on the pad contact area, the part that mates to the hub.
My brakes are awesome but my handbrake light comes on about once a year (wired on the brake fluid sensor circuit) and asks for a small top up... car is a 1993 Nissan. One of the cheapest cars to keep on the road, if you don't mind exchanging safety features for something fast light and nimble and has that 1990s double overhead cam scream when revved.
I wouldn't recommend that a DIYer use a big wire brush that close to the dust boots on the inside of the caliper. You would have to be very careful or you could easily damage them with the brush.
yes, it prevents a build up of pressure as the fluid retreats back into the reservoir from the caliper. basically just makes it easier to push the caliper pistons back in.
Jared, do you happen to know of any good detailers in the Hall county area? If you could shoot me their info, I would appreciate it. Actually glad you did this video as it reminded me I need to find a good detailer. Just bought a car I'm doing and there is really nothing I hate more than doing a deep clean and detail.
I think no bleed was needed because the brake hoses weren't removed & the the system was left intact. Nothing was opened, only cleaning & changing of the pads & rotors was done.
Why change the rotor? It didn’t appear to be under minimum spec. or physical damage(rust, cracks, etc. When you installed an un-needed new rotor, you forgot to check for lateral runout after installation. Happens from stacked tolerances(bearing,hub,rotor). Easy way to fix it, match them by using a ProCut OCL. Look it up, best brake job period! And you will have better brakes for the life of the pad. No pulsation guaranteed. The cleaning and proper lug nut torque is also very important.
How the hell did you get lucky enough to get out of Illinois? I have literally had to change cab corner/rockers and besides on 2016s Chevy trucks. The rust is real here in Illinois
Here is something else no one ever does. Peel the dust boots back with a pick, and spray silicone spray on the pistons before you compress them. You will never ever have a leaking calipre if you do that.
Did not expect the regulator to go bad because it is relatively a new truck. What if it was the same year truck but a GM? Would you expect it to be bad or assume it lol
Jared over here loves his Titan, but looks like now everyone is an expert in the comments telling him how "bad and unreliable it is", FFS, just let the man enjoy his truck! He is the only one who know how good it has been to him! Let people enjoy what they want!
Its been good to him because he takes care of it and respects it. Other people abuse and dont maintain their vehicles and when they break down they are "junk". No fools its called a owners manual. Open it up and go to the scheduled maintenance section.
@@fansoffast5909 Tbh just search for Audi multitronic and watch the forums full of retards that didn't do the proper maintenance on their car and now it fails. One of my family member has an Audi multitronic with 300k km that works like new.
it's dead... and replaced.... not even 100k miles
@@TedSchoenling Its not just Nissan or the Titan. Go look at any group FOrd,Chevy,Toyota or Ram and they all have issues. Guys on there complaining everyday about their trucks breaking down. Been driving Nissan all my life and never had any major issues. I have a Titan XD Pro4X now and if it breaks i have 100000 mile warranty. No worries
I love my 17 platinum reserve gas. The trans don't like slow but otherwise good so far..
"I've already reached my maximum desired effort..." lol I'm right there with ya!
I’ve been watching this channel since almost the beginning and it’s nice to see Jared really become more polished. Really starting to develop his own style, his own personality. Always enjoy watching the channel!!!!
My "best friends" are my propane torch and the 10lbs mallet, "The Persuader".
@Big Wheel Nice! I worked for the propane industry for a couple of years 👍
I dont have a 10lb mallet, it would be nice though. I have a 2.5lb sledge "baby thor" and map gas. I tried propane for a long time and many times it took a long tome to get thing to break free. Even before i got baby thor and i had bigger "hammers". Since switching to map gas, baby thor or a big flat head screwdriver (depending on what im doing) has worked great. That just what i like to use now. Although a 5 or 10lber would be more "persuasive" than my 2.5lber.
Yep that’s the NJ life for me. I call my mallet the “(part name) getter offa there 3000”
Part of why I don't trust shops to do my brake jobs. Most will skip all the cleaning and lubrication steps. They just pull and swap, and likely don't follow any torque specs either. I'd rather do it right myself.
Or greasing the guide pins on the calipers.
go for it, altho using a steel brush near the brake piston seals are triggering my tiny brain.
@@ryanmartinage Something many garage will skip and often ignore that a pin is frozen which is why the brakes wore out in the first place.
@@CrystalAced I thought the same actually, hah. I have caught a boot trying to clean chunks of rust off at least a few times and it's always big sad. Careful... Careful... DAMN IT!
@802 garage we need new eclipse video
If you need to "top off" your brake fluid either A: You have no pads left (all the fluid is in the calipers/wheel cylinders) or B: You have a leak. Either way they need servicing ASAP. You should NEVER have to top off brake fluid. It's a closed hydraulic system. Any "mechanic" that attempts to top off your brake fluid is one I would never visit again.
This! Never top it up, it is designed like this. Some cars even have a warning light that is triggered by the level, telling you to change the pads.
Agreed, have it at work all the time where I push the pistons back first ready for new pads and then dot 4 pisses all over the floor and engine bay
@@jakebmw you can thank pennzoil or or some other "quick lube" type place for that. I used to manage a quick lube, and topping off the brake fluid was a "courtesy" they provided, until I put a stop to it.
Side note; Take you car to an actual repair shop for your oil changes. They charge about the same, but ACTUAL mechanics are doing the job - PROPERLY, and often will do a courtesy inspection of tires, brakes, steering, and suspension.
Not all reservoirs are 100% sealed. You're right about having a leak or need to do a brake job, but brake fluid does have a boiling point. If the driver abuses their brakes very very trace amounts can evaporate through the seal of the cap.
I topped off a customers brake fluid yesterday. Nothing was wrong with their car or brakes, just was low on fluid cause an old car.
Just got 140k on my Titan XD, did my first brake and rotor job! I’m shocked mine lasted as long as they did. I don’t tow and most of my Miles’s are highway, so that’s probably why they lasted so long.
The 5.0 Cummins has been an incredible truck. ❤️
I just use a bungee cord to hold up my calibers. Also, if you open your brake fluid reservoir, (leave the cap on though, just unscrew and leave it over the hole) you'll have an easier time pushing your pistons back in.
Easier to open the bleeder valve
@@Ausblack how you figure? Working with a bleeder valve that may or may not be seized up, squeezing fluid out, x4 for all 4 wheels (or 2 if you're just doing the front) versus unscrewing 1 cap and allowing all the fluid to back up into the reservoir so you don't have to add brake fluid when you're done?
@@iamthecheese2737 if your changing your brakes then you should change your brake fluid, the amount of garbage that ends up in your calipers would surprise you. If the bleeder is stuck then its a problem that needs to be fixed not bypassed. Also a bit of Teflon tape on the bleeder helps with siezing and stops air or fluid leaking past
@@Ausblack if the bleeder is stuck then yes, there could be a problem..... Or if your car has spent more than one winter in the north, then it's just salt. And changing your brake fluid for every brake job is not necessary. Once again, I'm merely referring to where it was said it was easier to use the bleeder, not what's more proper.
i use an old paint can and just set it on there to the side. makes it easier to clean bc its not fixed to the car like a bungee or plastic tie
Nice shoutout to those in the rust belts. I know at least one channel constantly running into rust issues. "There's your problem lady". Was waiting for the sound when Brake Clean was used. Forgot which channel I was on.
Just a tip... Look at the lens instead of the screen. Will look a lot better for the one who watch this :) Good work!
Between Jarid, The Car Ninja and The Car Wizard, (The 3 wise men of RUclips car repair) I am learning everything I always wanted to know about when to wrench and when not to wrench, and most importantly how to wrench. Thank you for another great video.
Check out the South Main Auto channel if you want to see more brake jobs and diag videos.
check out chris fix if you enjoy people working on cars.
I read that as Car Weeeezard.
Thanks for not including Tavarish. That guy annoys me.
I second the recommendation for South Main Auto. That man is a rare specimen, honest, detailed, thorough, and highly educational. Maybe not as polished as the "glam" car channels the OP mentioned, but much, much more useful and detailed.
I open the bleeder valve when I compress the caliper. So I get rid of the old fluid in the caliper instead of pushing it back into the lines.
Love this channel. You guys work good together..
I've been a mechanic here in Australia for 29yrs now. And learnt a few good tips from this channel.
Thanks heaps mate.
Love your work and channel
As a kid, one of my first brake jobs I had no idea what I was doing. I knew which way to turn the wrench, and that was about it. I never lubed the slide pins, nor did I clean the rotor of packing oil. Needless to say I ended up having to take it to a shop because the vibration and shaking felt like the whole front end was going to rip out every time I went near the brake pedal. It wasn't until i started watching "do it yourself" type of shows (this was WAY before RUclips) that I learned what I had done wrong. Such a "simple job", but many nuances that will trip you up if not done properly.
Omg video on the main channel and now here, this days is coming out really good
Not sure why I watched this video(cuz I have done all of this maintenance myself for years) I was always scared to even find out what the dealership charged. 400 bucks for just the filters…F..k! Now it just so happens that that same rear window has stopped working on mine. I’ve been meaning to check it out, but I had to put the old girl on a diet first. Probably gonna look into it now. I never really NEEDED to roll that window down, which is why I haven’t messed with it yet. You got me motivated now. The diet was a big job. That window is the only thing that doesn’t work at the moment. Thanks for the tips.
Cleaning the mating surface behind the rotor and around the hub centric area is very important. Years ago I did a brake job 3 times on my wife's car (in 2 months) and kept getting SEVERE vibration during high speed braking. Took me a while to notice the debris and rust causing the rotor to not sit dead flat. Scotch bright or wire brush the area ALWAYS, just in case
I really like the explaining and showing vs all music and rushed through...Thanks for that
Do NOT push the pistons back 1 at a time on 2 piston calipers. One will pop out. Fun Fun Fun :-)
After pulling the cap on my reservoir this didn't happen. Although I guess your milage may vary.
@@mafs13 All depends on how stuck the pistons are and how restrictive the system is to back flow etc.
@@802Garage Good point, and always good practice to push them back at the same time though, preferably with an old brake pad.
that's why i like brembos. you can squeeze them down w your hand and an old brake pad!
@@ianv549 Mmm, I love fixed calipers.
I love this channel. I learn a lot. Cars can be so intimidating but it's easier than it seems a lot of the time. Thanks, Jared!!!
I usually never buy sponsored items, but between the Wrench videos, the Vinwiki Ed videos, and the $25 for the ceramic coating, I decided to go ahead and try some out for my Jeep. I wish I could do the Jag, but that one needs a new paintjob due to clearcoat failure. I can't wait!!
Gi Jared nice video 📹 and workmanship
I keep a couple of large syringes in my toolbox for removing excess brake from the master cylinder reservoir. There cheap and you can get them in and agricultural farm store where they keep medical supplies for livestock. Just the syringe you don't need any needles. I've found them to be useful for all sorts of jobs.
I was told before you squeeze the piston back. Open the bleeder, get rid of old fluid that has been in the calipers going thru the heat and cool cycle. Top off master with fresh brake fluid. Like a mini brake fluid change for the calipers.
Torque spec = enough. Or as we say in Sweden, "lagom" 🤣😆
I think Germany has something similar, they call it "Goodentit"
UK its called FT
@@tgrasmusen Gutenteight!
American conversion unit is ugga duggas
@@tgrasmusen in Germany it's called "knall fest die scheiße"
When I replace brake parts, I ALWAYS clean everything related. Nothing worse than working in filth and putting brand NEW parts on a filthy vehicle. I also make sure the centre of the rotor is painted and that the Hub is CLEAN. I like how you are doing this.
I'm still not sure what the title is referring to. Should we all be coating our wheels? Did I miss something?
I think it's suggesting to clean with OCD while replacing the brakes.
I do believe he is suggesting to clean the rims with Armor Shield IX by AvalonKing with a special $25 discount, which probably isn't a bad idea to clean the back of the rims while they're off. Probably doing the ceramic coating might help to keep dust off, or make it easier to keep clean.
But I also had/have the same question.
He's referring to the cleaning of the hub where the rotor interfaces. I guess it's common to just throw new rotors on without cleaning the grit off the hub.
Brings up another thing I typically do is use never seize on there as well to help with next time...
I was expecting a tutorial on bedding the pads. THAT is something that one should do after changing brakes.
Can you give an update on Honda Rousey?
Happy Friday Jared!
Ooh, I am a sucker for a brown vehicle! That's a shiny, shiny Titan, Jared; great work!
Going to an automotive trade school after highschool was a decision I've never regretted. Although I no longer work as a mechanic I still save money doing the vast majority of services on my own vehicle to this day.
You might want to mention that some car’s caliper pistons require a tool to rotate them as they are compressed.
Most with integrated handbrake rears will need the rotation with push back.
Name one car with Front caliper made like that.
@@blackericdenice The first range of SAAB, and Subaru Leone.
@@stoopydh4878
rekt
@@blackericdenice 2009 mazda 3
“Wheels-off detailing.” With a ferrous wheel cleaner and proper brushes you can always reach the end of the barrels. Black rags and the plastic handles on Wheel Woolies work when caliper clearance is minimal.
I've been told that if the brakes have an ABS system that you should not press the fluid back through it to the reservoir it has the potential to damage the ABS system. You should open the bleeder when pressing the piston's open and then fill the reservoir after doing each side. Normally there is no need to bleed the brakes as long as the reservoir doesn't go dry.
Aren't you risking pushing air into the system?
@@gnhun101 Nope. Not sure how you could "push" air into the system when you pushing fluid out. Open the bleeder when you start compressing the piston and close it when the piston is fully open, before taking the clamp off.
Are you using a speed bleeder? Or one way check valve? "Push" is the wrong word. You are more likely to introduce air into the system bleeding fluid off the caliper. How would pushing fluid back to the abs or master cylinder damage it?
@@gnhun101 I have no idea how pushing fluid back through the ABS system, with the car off, could damage it I'm not an engineer. Opening the the brake piston is absolutely pushing the fluid, it's definitely not pulling it. I just connect a hose to the bleeder screw that runs into a bottle. If you are really concerned about getting air in the system you could also put some fluid in the jar and have the hose below the level of the fluid to be doubly sure no air can enter.
I think everyone should have a grilled cheese sandwich after changing their brakes.
Jared really needs the Rob Dahm GoPro chest cam setup so he can use both hands. Or maybe working on cars is too easy for him so he has to turn it up to hard mode haha.
good thing you're wearing a glove on that right hand....LMAO
Keep fuel and oil off that girlfriend😅
Seems like once I’m 5 minutes into the job my nitrile gloves usually look just like that too.
Me: gloves on, ok let’s work
me 15 mins later: didn’t I put gloves on? *just have the wrist bead left*
I don't know why I never thought to press the brakes after each wheel to prevent possible overflows, but that makes a ton of sense to me after hearing it.
i have a 2009 Frontier. the driver side window motor did the same thing. there is a shaft with a gear on it that gets cock-eyed and is unfixable. $25 if you order and fix yourself. it's typically not the switch.
"Desired effort threshold" lmao gonna remember that and use it. Brilliant!
Next time I change brakes it will be done so much better. Thank you for the info.
Nice to see a titan xd on here, I had one before I was shipped overseas with the military and loved it!
Glad to see somebody doing something different
The Titan looks pretty cool
I've dealt with similar things to that rear window motor with robotics. input and out put sensing remembers positioning when an error occurs and so you must manually move the robots position before it will re home. same thing goes with a lot of stuff that's automated.
And Please put a foot Note to say if you push fluid or brake piston back one at a time you pop the other piston and could set your ABS light on your dash and have to get it Reset . And if you have the turn type of piston a flat bar that fits the slot and turn and push back as you go with vice grips on the bar saves buying tools to do the job , the only other thing i would add is take the brake cap so it just sits on the Reservoir Not screwed down .
Tip most brake fluid ( mineral oil) breaks down when in contact with moisture. water so if you do have a spill of brake fluid you can clean it up with just plain water the fluid will breakdown and wipe up easily. But warning caution do not get water in your brake system moisture will destroy it
I agree detailing the inside of wheels is a pain! Cleaning all those dirty nooks get my fingers tired.
Speaking of rust and brakes, I did brakes on a 2011 Volvo XC60 and it took my an hour to beat the rotors off of the hubs due to the rust that rust is no joke make sure you clean your hubs
I fully agree that the wheel barrels should be cleaned. I always keep mine clean!! Good tip.....just the tip, though.
If you take a standard screwdriver and place it between the old pad and the rotor and pry you will compressed the cylinder and the caliper will come right off simple and easy and go back on just as easy with no bleeding of the brakes or exposing assistant to air
Happened to me, sadly. I had a weird vibration which lead me down the wrong rabbithole and got me to align the car, balance all the tires and replace all the hardware in the front without anything helping. Then i realized it COULD be that simple and cleaned all contact surfaces, remounted the wheels and bam! No more vibrations! :)
When it comes to those calipers, I hang them with a metal hanger I keep around just for that. I wouldn't waste a zip tie. :D
23:35 does the ceramic coating in the wheel barrel prevent stick on-type wheel weights from adhering properly?
yes! Ive had problems with weights coming off on coated rims.. not nice. Make sure you clean the spots where the weights need to go...
Looks like he balanced the wheels before the cleaners got there. Movie magic. He had a stick on and a clip on before then when the guys got their. Magically it had all stick ons lll
Love learning from this channel is so unintimidating and I actually understand it not just nod my head and pretend 😂
You should check out South Main Auto. (Not a sponsor) (SMA inside joke) I'm almost always learning something new 👍👍
@@ImTheJoker4u I concur. I greatly recommend SMA!
(and nice "not a sponsor" joke)
On some cars the whole job is easier if you compress the pistons back into the caliper before you disassemble anything, as soon as you remove the wheel, compress the pistons.
I find I have great access to the rear when mounting.
I don't top up my master cylinder, if it looks low and I don't have any leaks, I change the brake pads and the level comes back up. another indicator of brake wear if you will.
That beautiful red Cappuchino makes me cry, I want one so badly :(
I may be wrong but i know brake cleaner dissolves my rubber/latex gloves almost instantly. Cant imagine its very good for the rubber brake piston seals/sleeves!
Jared, I would love a video (or just a comment if it is that simple) about how to handle various shop fluids. Oil is obviously very easy to recycle at any auto parts store. Does literally everything else get thrown out? I've had jugs of radiator/brake/transmission fluid sitting around forever.
brake and atf are just oils, sling em in with your motor oil, theyll take it and it dont matter 1 bit.
as for coolant?
if its modern OATS coolant -which most is these days, down the toilet is fine- not the drain, the TOILET - IT needs to go into the sewer, not the environment and many drains just run off into the environment.
@@deadprivacy thanks for the info. I don't think I'll ever feel comfortable pouring automotive fluids down the drain and/or toilet but I'll definitely combine my brake and atf with my oil going forward.
I think its important to mention that the c-clamp trick, doesn't work with all breaks becaus some of them require to be twisted as well (e.G. VW Eurovan)
Not much of a problem this is mostly with just the rear calipers anyways which you can twist with flat heads or needle nose pliers. But I will admit it is important to know as most people will force it when it’s a twist.
Let me guess anti seize on aluminum wheels? Brake caliper grease? Cause i do that everytime as ive had siezed wheels bolts etc. Also never run metallic based front pads with good wheels. The dust rusts on the wheel and can ruin it. Spend the extra and get ceramic based pads
No copper grease between the hub and the disc?
Has it ever been mentioned what the plans for the pulsar are ?
In for details on the Pulsar as well.
A little heads up on brake pistons. On Hyundais and Kias at least. The brake pistons needs to be turned in. They've got tiny notches where you slot in a specific tool, or a suitably sized set of needle nosed pliers, to turn the piston. If you try to push it in you will ruin them.
Can you tell us why you replaced the rotors instead of having them turned? They looked pretty clean with only 74,000 miles on them. Thanks
Almost no place does that anymore, and if you find some one that does it they almost charge the price of a new rotor.
Ashton, Illinois here! Great video,Jared!
First Jared/Tavarish video that is both good entertainment and I can actually apply personally 👌👍
Hi Jared, thank you very much for your videos, could please make a tutorial with the quantities and torque on changing the transmission fluid and filter on a 2018 titan xd 4prox diesel .
Thanks once again
Also worth noting, a lot of the anti-rust shit they put on new brake disks will NOT be removed fully by brake cleaner and a rag, you have to use soapy water. Check the instructions.
I am very easy on brakes. I have a 2002 TrailBlazer and got about 160,000 on my last set of front pads. When I put them in not long after I bought the SUV used I got top of the line pads. Besides buying quality pads my secret to longevity is in my driving habits. I am rarely ever towing anything, so there is not that stress on the brakes, but mainly I drive so that I do not have to use my brakes very much. I leave a good following distance, so there very few quick stops. Also, I pay attention to street lights ahead of me, and if they change to red I slow down enough to try and time them so that they turn green just before, or as I approach them. My brakes last very long, so I must be doing it right. I see many people rushing up to red lights just to have to stop a but hard, and that is harder on the brakes and fuel economy.
So no love for your vehicle, huh. I have performance brakes so i can stoop just before the crash, run that light, or pass on the right. with so little use, your brakes just may fail on you.
@@olddirtyburt7522 My brakes are fine. I use them as needed, but they last me a good long time.
I have to do pads and rotors on my Mustang, thanks for all the tips.
dont wire brush anywhere near the piston seals, its a good vid but this one is criminally dumb antics.
Had an 07 Ridgeline that I knew it was getting close to time on rear pads, it never squealed, the outside pad wore through to the backing pad, already had pads but the floating caliper biased to the pad that didn't have a squealer...
Titan XD is such a wonderful truck. I have 115K on mine and she will do another 100k, no problem.
you are a 1 hand master!!! Good vid!
Just did my calibers, rotors, and pads about 2 week's ago hear in Michigan. Took about 3 times as long as it should have. Lol
How did you get the guide pins out of the caliper without putting holes in the rubber caps.
its also a good idea to remove the cap off the reservoir while pushing the pistons back to stop back pressure build up in the reservoir
How's the performance on the ceramic coating so far?
What do you use to stop the squeal after you put new pads on. Mine were quiet for about a month but now when I come to a slow slow stop they will squeal a little. Annoying AF.
Honda Rousey? The LS Reb? Freddy's Manual Merc with the custom gated shifter? Come on! Let's get some of these done.
You are starting to sound like Freddie. 😁
I put anti seize on the back of the rotor when I put it on so when I replace them the next time they come right off. Obviously, not on the pad contact area, the part that mates to the hub.
this, and cleaning rust off with brake cleaner is going to clean rust off, he has some strange behaviours this fella
My brakes are awesome but my handbrake light comes on about once a year (wired on the brake fluid sensor circuit) and asks for a small top up... car is a 1993 Nissan. One of the cheapest cars to keep on the road, if you don't mind exchanging safety features for something fast light and nimble and has that 1990s double overhead cam scream when revved.
I wouldn't recommend that a DIYer use a big wire brush that close to the dust boots on the inside of the caliper. You would have to be very careful or you could easily damage them with the brush.
Dose it help to remove the bake fluid cap when decompressing the caliper? I've never tried it but always wondered if it did.
yes, it prevents a build up of pressure as the fluid retreats back into the reservoir from the caliper. basically just makes it easier to push the caliper pistons back in.
@@nknasi that's what I thought just never tried it tho.
Crack it open , but don't take it off in humid areas , it's hydroscopic
Much needed maintenance?
What hAvent u been doing to keep it in such good shape.....
Jared, do you happen to know of any good detailers in the Hall county area? If you could shoot me their info, I would appreciate it. Actually glad you did this video as it reminded me I need to find a good detailer. Just bought a car I'm doing and there is really nothing I hate more than doing a deep clean and detail.
With the Avalonking, you should have only coated half the truck, so the we could see how good the results were against the uncoated side.
Lint on the surface of the rotor? *OCD intensifies*
Can you give any info on the plans for the Pulsar?
So honest question, why wouldn't you bleed your brakes when doing a brake job?
I think no bleed was needed because the brake hoses weren't removed & the the system was left intact. Nothing was opened, only cleaning & changing of the pads & rotors was done.
You should normally bleed your brakes about every two years. But check your owners manual recommendations. They may vary
Will the metal wire brush not rip the rubber piston seals?
I'm a nongay man but still have a small crush on you Jared. Gave me confidence to change my brakes.
air gun?
dry wheels or leaf blower?
Why change the rotor? It didn’t appear to be under minimum spec. or physical damage(rust, cracks, etc. When you installed an un-needed new rotor, you forgot to check for lateral runout after installation. Happens from stacked tolerances(bearing,hub,rotor). Easy way to fix it, match them by using a ProCut OCL. Look it up, best brake job period! And you will have better brakes for the life of the pad. No pulsation guaranteed. The cleaning and proper lug nut torque is also very important.
How the hell did you get lucky enough to get out of Illinois? I have literally had to change cab corner/rockers and besides on 2016s Chevy trucks. The rust is real here in Illinois
Nissan did not put grease on the pad or the brackets. Never put grease there because brake dust will mix with it.
Here is something else no one ever does. Peel the dust boots back with a pick, and spray silicone spray on the pistons before you compress them. You will never ever have a leaking calipre if you do that.
Not cracking the bleeder can put that lovely brake light on your dash..
Did not expect the regulator to go bad because it is relatively a new truck. What if it was the same year truck but a GM? Would you expect it to be bad or assume it lol