Or a customer that brings their own parts after billy parts counter person sold them a part…so customer will be paying for diagnostic and actual repair !
@@bobbg9041 I think that everyone knows that this "blinker fluid" thing is just a hoax to mess with stupid people! The reality is, what needs to be checked at least bi-yearly is the Blue Blinker Grease! It's a specialized Blinker Grease of the highest quality..... annnnddddd.... IT'S BLUE! Everybody know this.... geeze! 😁😅😂🤣 LOL Sorry, I just could not resist.
@@voidy2077True, certifications are useful, but the best one can do over the counter is guess then roll out the parts cannon. Parts cannons sometimes fire blanks, like in a faulty new part. What's worse is the number of bogus "name brand" parts in the supply chain.
As an apprentice mechanic...your channel is a god send. The shop I'm at likes to leave me to the wolves. They check. My work, but I'm on my own until I get stumped. Thanks to you. I rarely get stumped anymore...usually cuz I just don't have all the tools yet
@@Spindrift_Productions so is work in general....or aren't you aware of that? To work for currency, that someone else profits from. Is called economic slavery? Thus everyone is a slave to whichever corporation they live in. Cuz if you look at any cities, in north America, letterhead. It always says Corporation of. Thus every state, province, and territory are all corporations and everyone is a slave to them.
@@Spindrift_Productions well considering this is my second career, and I'm a first year apprentice. As I was a chef for 20 years. It's no diff than a kitchen. So maybe I'm just accustomed to learning from watching ppl and asking questions. I'm used to being left to my own devices and figure things out. Same as when I was in the military and was doing basic training. When you're on the bottom of the totem pole you have to be willing to do the grunt work and it's up to you to take on more. I've never had my hand held. You have to prove to the employer that you can do the work during the first year. Hell I also do part time roofing with my highschool best friend, and it's the same deal there. When you're at the bottom, you're doing all the grunt work. Unrelated work isn't unrelated if it's apart of how the shop operates. If it's something that a shop needs done, the owner had to do at some point in thier career. Apprenticeships aren't just the work to be a mechanic/chef, etc. it's also to be able to run a business. They teach you everything from the ground up even the basic stuff. I've seen ppl quit cuz they had to clean the shop. Saying the same thing you are. Sorry but I'm ok with it, if I want to be a high value person. I'm gona do everything it takes to get there. I'm not gona make reasons to stop. I don't have the time to at 38 years old. I gota do everything to get there. Everything.
As a hobbyist mechanich working on my own vehicles for the past 30 years, I've amassed many tools and RUclips videos from Ray and other creators like A1Auto parts have kept me from making costly mistakes
@@shamanosarcasm9800 I suspect that you are like me. I too have been repairing my own vehicles (once out of warranty, of course) since I was a kid. I had brothers who where mechanics and engineers. What I learned in life, was if I can fix something that a garage wants HUNDREDS or THOUSANDS of dollars for, I'm better off buying whatever equipment I need to do the job, even if it still costs a lot of $$$. It turns out that I get the job done.... I KNOW that I got TOP QUALITY PARTS and not 'white box, knockoff JUNK" and then I have the tools left over for the next job(s). So yeah, I'm a collector of tools and equipment. LOL The only jobs I would never do is anything transmission related. It turns out, I've never had a transmission problem, so that worked out well. LOL Also part of my doing my own work is because all too many shops are actually RIP OFF artists. They literally make BS claims that x, y AND z are failing and need replacing when either it's NONE OF THOSE or just 1.
@@BlondieSL ain't that the truth! I tell my son, do your research (repair manuals, RUclips vids) and don't go cheap on tools cause you get what you pay for. One thing I wish I had invested in early on was a quality scan tool. It would have eliminated a lot of guess work and shooting the parts cannon at the car trying to fix problems. I went from having a couple tool boxes to two large rolling double stack tool chests seemingly overnight. I work in the medical field but I spend the bulk of my off time under a car or in the engine. I should have been a mechanic!!!
Reminds of a Cherokee water pump replaced by dealer in late '80s and the replacement pump had the impeller on backwards. Car overheat dummy lite went on about 2 miles down the road, drove back and it took the dealer 4 days to figure out the problem.
You hit the nail on the head about not even being able to buy quality parts any more... it's either cheap junk or expensive junk thanks to the great corporate CEO's that outsource everything to the cheapest bidder
David Rosario, Off topic and inaccurate sir. Nor is it the Republicans, conservatives or progressives....it is in large part people across the spectrum who lack a moral compass and are driven by greed.
@@garyowen3662 We, the consumers, are also to blame in a big way. As evidenced on this channel all the time, we cheap out and look for the cheapest alternative in most every aspect of life. To all: The free market responds to demand. Be the change you want to see. Start creating demand for better products rather than just demanding better products. It’s always easy to blame greed, big business, etc. Remember that next time you buy from Harbor Freight, etc. You are telling all corporations that you prefer the cheaper alternatives. Can’t have it both ways.
Glad to hear the click on the schrader valve lol. Oh future reference GM vent valves will not open under pressure from the smoke machine. Test it out sometime on a known good you'll see what I mean. On GM if you have the system under full pressure of the smoke machine it will not open... Vacuum it will work fine though. Anyhow might help you out in the future 👍
Now that I see Eric O posting here I understand how I came to this channel being recommended to me. Both are Informative and entertaining. Keep up the great job guys.
Hi Eric. I had to laugh a bit at him grabbing a smoke machine without any codes available. If he understood how to manually run the monitor he could have proved out the whole system.
Man I am having the same problem on my Honda but it keeps saying check fuel cap and sometimes the check engine light is on but it is freaking stupid I believe it said it was the purge valve solenoid
The best functional I've found for Evap stuff is the purge/seal command. It'll command purge to 0% and close the vent valve BUT let you run the purge valve open in percent steps. I like to do a quick smokeless test while I'm off working on something else by starting the engine, running the purge with the vent closed for a few seconds to pull a little vacuum on the tank then close the purge and watch vaccum rise to 0 and keep going above 0 as vapor pressure builds (well not watch but look back at the logged data graph). You can get a quick idea based on vacuum decay and pressure rise as to the size of the hole you're looking for and if the hole is even currently present or not. With the car off you can just watch natural vapor pressure rise to see if there's even a tiny leak after the repair. Based on hole size you can guess some likely culprits and you can run the purge valve to check it's operation and check the vent valve for 'does it even close?' quickly too. I've been seeing more GM's with failed purge valves that don't fully close and set leak codes or set incorrect purge codes AND rich codes. Those purge valves should be CLOSED when they're off, not half open!
The fist one had a sort of weak double click when it operated open whereas the one you installed Ray had a much longer and more positive sounding click. I would have loved to see the smoker was back on & we saw smoke coming out the newer one for visual confirmation. It is bazaar that he was angry considering he did not want a diagnostic performed the first time,, he provided the part and asked it be installed. And due to his actions the second time round he has the codes deleted at another shop. What a winner. He sounds like the type of person that you would rather not do any more work for.
" It is bazaar that he was angry " So what are you expecting from a guy that is deleting error codes just before he is bringing his car for diagnose? :D
Agreed with you, but maybe the cars instrument panel should read out check engine Problems, with a description of problem in the first place rather than a dummy check engine light with no explanation causing either panic or just ignore it...... I carry a diagnostic code reader with explanation of code number and problem description in car. I don't delete or clear codes, do my research when a code comes up, make an educated decision before paying for repairs.
Thanks for the quick explanation on the EVAP..... Not of all us are mechanics in here and appreciate the lessons! A month ago I didn't even know how to swap a battery until I found your channel!
His explanation of the EVAP system is wrong. That valve he replaced only lets fresh air into the tank to prevent a vacuum when the fuel level goes down. There is another line that connects to a charcoal canister that collects vapors from the fuel evaporating. when the charcoal gets saturated another valve opens and lets the engines vacuum suck out the vapors and burn them through the engine. This mechanic doesn't fully know his stuff, or he REALLY dumbed down his explanation. I don't think the repair he made was the correct one.
Facts! I installed a new 5.7 on a RAM 1500 and the engine was bad and had to redo the job. Good thing customer didn't have a chance to leave with the vehicle.
??? I'm so confused... Who in their infinite wisdom decides "yes erase the code so I can take it to the shop and have them diagnose it" is a great idea.... Whatttt????
Justin, your right, that boggles ones mind!!! I was at a parts store once, an employee was pulling the trouble codes for a customer. The customer asked him to clear the codes, and the employee said they had a policy to NOT clear the codes. That was a few years back, not sure if they still have that policy.
I've been caught parroting your "Click!" and telephone alerts regularly now, to the tune of ~80% accuracy. Great content! As always I learned something.
I’m So glad I turned my back on that industry years ago… hats off to that guy customers require even more patience than actually fixing/ trouble shooting vehicle issues, never let an owner diagnose their own vehicle
I had to replace a purge valve solenoid on our 07 tahoe , first code popped up was "tighten gas cap" bought a new gas cap. Cleared that code for that also had a pending code for the purge valve an it was gone show up anytime. So I knew that's the next part to replace. After replacing both parts i have no problem filling up gas or 3 cranks to start after a fill up, that happened first before replacing the purge valve. Gas cap was probably worn from over the years since 2007 till now.
Thanks for the basic explanation of the evap system. I was having problems with the evap system on my Wrangler and didn't really understand what it was at the time. Funny story about that Jeep: I got it off an auction, sight unseen. It turned out to have massive problems all throughout. I was pretty bummed about the cost of repairs needed to get the thing running right and driving straight. One day, the clutch hydraulic system sprung a leak and I started losing clutch pressure. As I drove down the freeway toward home, cursing the Jeep the whole way, the Ram 3500 behind me decided to check his phone right as we approached a traffic jam, and slammed into the back of me going 70mph. Needless to say, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The money-pit/death-trap Jeep was totaled and I ended up getting a descent sized insurance claim settlement. That's one way to fix a problem vehicle.
@@MrMikey1273 Can't say on the newer ones, but folks who have older Tacoma's tend to not want to sell them till they're either rusted to bits or totally worn out. That should tell you something about them...
My 2002 Trailblazer lasted 20 years with no major issues. Sold it because it was old and wanted some new tech. Hopefully my new suv will last that long. There was a recall on the gas tank/ assoc parts. Free replacement.
For peace of mind I would have left the smoke machine hooked up to visually verify that the new part was indeed working. I know your old fingers felt a much more positive action going on, but it would of been good to get a visual confirmation of seeing the old smoke escape. But just unbelievable how some people behave - stopping at the parts store and getting them to erase the DTC's right before coming to you. You just can't make that stuff up! At the very least he should have got the parts store to give him a record of the code or codes they found. I do hope you politely pointed out to him the error of their ways!
I have read that the American psychiatric manual (I think it’s called) that lists all the definitions of possible mental problems is so comprehensive that EVERYONE has been crazy at some time in their life. That being said I would start to look for this guys definition under “paranoia”. I expect he’s, under the right circumstances, committable.
He has Snap On tools he is the smarted lube tech out there. If you own Snap On tools you're the worlds bes he don;t need to smoke it no more he said he was confident lol
There's an electronics repair guy in New York - Louis Rossman - who ends his videos with "That's it for today, and as always, I hope you learned something." - This applies equally well to your videos.
Louis is the most vocal right to repair advocate for electronics. Automobiles are actually right to repair items. Amazing that a complex item such as a car can be fixed by the dealer, an independent or even you at home. But be able to fix your iphone, heck no. You could take money out of the hands of apple. Even their new program is riddled with loop holes.
@@samholdsworth420 I figured you watched Lewis. Still want to help inform those who don't know him. Right to repair in all industries is really important for our future
I do not go out and buy random parts until I know for sure what is broke. That's like right now my expedition is throwing two codes. When I locked up what might be the cause most of the articles and videos out there all say mass air sensor. Then I found other videos telling me the PVC hose is normally what is wrong. So tomorrow I'm going to do exactly what you did here and smoke the engine and verify what is going on before buying any parts. With a smoke machines that are out now it really helps figuring out things quickly. Has anyone who has ever had a vacuum leak you know how much of a pain in the butt it is to find it. Normally with the smoke machine within minutes you see where you have an issue. As always I made sure to give you a big old thumbs up. Look forward to watching another one of your videos.
Always use original GM evap parts only on GM's. Same thing happened to me. Bought a purge solenoid from Autozone, lasted 2 weeks. Replaced with AC Delco 3 years ago still working fine.
Love your videos Ray. As a GMC dealer tech that deals with evap issues on GMs every single day, i want to chime in on this one. I like to start with evap systems by performing a purge/seal with the scan tool engine running. That can often give you a good indication whether you’ve got a system that just won’t hold vacuum, a vent solenoid that isn’t closing, massive leak, fuel tank pressure sensor that’s lying, etc, just gives a quick preliminary of what the system is doing before breaking out the smoke machine or anything like that. Now the second thing i want to mention, on GM vent valves, turning them “on” energizes the solenoid and CLOSES the valve. So I’m a little confused on why you’re expecting there to be smoke coming out when you turn it on? Unless i was just misunderstanding. Turning the valve off should open it and allow smoke to escape.
@@abccde3832 apparently yes from everything I've gathered, but my experience with a proper smoke machine is non existent but the actual verified mechanics I've seen are saying yes
Watched like 50 of your videos then realized I wasn’t subbed. I don’t even like working on cars but I love how informative you are. Hope to see you reach 1mil subs
The problem with him reaching a mil is that when the money starts changing his life it also changes the content, and I really don’t need to see diagnostics on a Konenigsegg.
That's because the piece is banging against an end-stop when the solenoid energises, and just falling out with gravity when it loses power. So you get a click, snap or clack when on and a rattle when off
Troy feels like I did when I got the call from the shipping company saying I had the wrong address and if I had a phone number so they could get the package to you. I'm impressed that you didn't start yelling at Troy for the wiring mistake. Obviously he didn't notice the crank sensor wasn't connected, he should have been with you when you were coming up with a solution to fix the problem instead of going for lunch because he was mad. At least he didn't start throwing tools like some people do. Good job on coming up with a solution to correct the situation.
As stated there is a function test that you can run with the scanner to do a test on evap system. Smoke testing isn't a very good way to check an Eva system. They won't always open the valve because they are low pressure. Run the function test and see what it shows then go from there.
After changing out my Evap canister on an Envoy, I learned to never overfill my gas again. All that extra clicking bought me some back time on the cold driveway lol.
@@Zxceelxuz Intermittent failure to start. The security light will come on. I have to do the 10 minute reset then it's all ok for a while. I've had the dealer and other shops "work" on the BCM but it still comes back. Basically, it sits in the driveway now because I can't trust it to start again. 2006 Impala.
I love it when customers clear codes before bringing it to me. I'm so busy I tell them to drive it and when the light comes back to not reset it and come see me.
You are a 1000% correct about pretty much all parts being junk. Straight from the dealer or off the cheapest parts shelf, there aren't very many high quality parts anymore. And your customer had the light shut off to diagnose the light on, what a brainiac! Great video Ray, you have a great day too. 👍👍
Awesome 😎 I own 2 Chevy Trailblazers a 04 and 05 love to see your experience used on these vehicles it increases my knowledge when weird things go wrong with mine 🤣 Thank you very much 👍🏼
I had an 04. I liked most everything about it except the damn ridiculously complicated and overly sensitive independent vent/duct damper motors. They'll go electronically belly up just changing or disconnecting the battery. I've been a mechanic of various genre's my entire life and consider myself a patient man but I'll tell ya...those damper motors made me walk away inventing new swear words more than once.
@@gregoryking9348 on my 04 my fan speed resistor has melted the plastic electrical plug so now my blower motor hasn't worked for 6 months now 😠 I was wondering why there was a faint smell of burning plastic sometimes as I'd drive around 😂
@Jimmy S The GMC Envoy is the same as the Chevrolet Trailblazer both came in 2 sizes a standard and an extended version that added a third row of seats. 😎
I had a car that was having starting issues, so I had the battery tested and it was bad. I put in a high dollar Gold series 7 year battery. I still had starting issues, so I replaced the starter, then the cables, and.I still had issues..so I took it to the service station that sold me the new battery. They analyzed and checked everything - it was the brand new battery. The first part that I replaced was still the issue.
I’m a total dunce when it comes to working on cars. I’ve changed oil on several of my cars, replaced brake pads, fuel pump, water pump, batteries, spark plugs, headlights, a radiator and changed several flat ties, wipers and a few other sorted parts. But that was 20+ years ago! The cars today have so much junk on them, I’m not even qualified to check the oil. 😂 Your videos are enlightening and entertaining. You explain things very well and present it in a humorous way that us common folks can understand and appreciate. Thanks!
If I was in your area, I'd get you to do all my work. You are probably the most patient and positive mechanic I've ever heard speak. Most would be cursing this guy for doing what he did and then being upset. I'd side with the disgruntled mechanic but good on you for your attitude!!
You inspired me to film my first video today. A quick track change on our excavator at work. It didn't turn out very well, it was just a phone set down watching me work, but it was a lot of fun doing it.
@@billchessell8213 I didn't think to cover up our company logo, I don't feel comfortable posting it. It probably wouldn't matter, but I don't need any extra headaches.
I learned that lesson having my mechanic install ebay sourced wheel bearings on a Prius. Didn't last long, neither did the warranty replacement ones. Mechanic was happy, cuz I had to pay them twice lol. I think it was still cheaper than the OEMs they wanted to do in the end, but I won't do that again.
Just an FYI from my own experience this goes double on GM vehicles and triple on GM trucks if you have a repeated failure of a vent valve check the vapor canister. Remove it and turn it upside down if charcoal comes out that is the root of the problem to fix it. Replace the canister and remove all of the vapor lines and blow them out from the purge solenoid all the way to the vent. In my experience to do this properly I usually have to drop the fuel tank. Good luck guys I hope this helps.
I replaced the vent valve, purge valve, gas cap and canister on my ‘05 Tahoe. The line from the canister to the tank was clogged with carbon pellets. I vacuumed them all out (realized afterwards how dangerous that was - explosion risk). The error code came back later (P0449 I think) and I’m getting a replace gas cap message in the DIC. I’m wondering if there may have been an o-ring in the connector of the hose going to the tank that might have gotten sucked into the vacuum. Or, maybe I got a defective cap? I haven’t yet checked the filler hose for leaks. Thoughts?
🔰🇺🇸 I’m pretty sure this is the exact same issue I’m having and have had with my 2008 Pontiac G8GT. In the summer, I have to wait for the gas tank to bleed off through the filler, otherwise the tank won’t fill and it’ll spray liquid gasoline back at me.
Thx for the real world work. The other guys just talk through the diagnosis/ repair process. This is a whole new game Spot on point Thx for your videos ✌️
I agree with comment from South Main Auto Repair LLC. I've been fooled by that valve not opening when there is pressure from the smoke tester in the system. However, it appeared that Ray did not really have a tight seal where the smoke machine connected to the test port so I wonder how much pressure there was in they system.
I had 3 starters and 2 alternators in a row that were broken directly out of the box for a '78 Ford Country Squire with a 302. The customer insisted we use his parts. Shop manager told him to get his money back and go to the Napa or the Car Quest down the street from our shop
I drive an old 60s box truck for years and it was going through a clutch every 9 months. My boss was always saying I was fucking it up and I was stressed out thinking that I was doing something wrong. But he hired a new mechanic for the trucks and they found a piece of the clutch installed backwards 😅 my boss never said sorry or even told me. I learned from another manager after I said my truck was driving better lol
Back when I was just getting into mechanicking around high school days I learned three main lessons, 1. I was more of a real mechanic not just a parts changer. 2. There is PLENTY of such things as ' brand new junk ' But most of all, the thing that kept me from becoming a professional car mechanic, was the ' since you worked on my brakes my windshield wipers don't work ' scenario. I experienced way too much of that before I was even out of high school.
@@michaelszczys8316 got my window replaced and when got the car back my washer fluid wasn’t really spraying almost like a pinched hose sure enough I looked and the wiper arm was pinching the hose just unpinched the hose and it worked again no big deal. But most people don’t even know anything about cars and that’s why I say at least learn the basics cause yes the glass place accidentally pinched my washer hose but it was a simple fix and I still gave them company a good review. Most would head back and start yelling at the workers there you broke this it worked when I brought it too you then they leave a bad review even though the work done was good. Mistakes happen it was not serious and I figured it out in 2 seconds.
I have had this problem, and have paid for two smoke test. The smoke test did not show any leaks. I also smelled gas fumes at times. No mechanic could find the leak so I looked over the evap system myself. I found a cracked vapor canister purge valve, and a crack in the hose that went from the fuel tank to the fuel tank vent solenoid. The vapor canister purge valve was plastic, and getting old. The plastic was also getting brittle. I replaced the purge valve, and fixed the cracked hose. That fixed the problem for me.
Have a great day Ray and thanks for all your informative, educational and entertaining content. You have a very unique channel in that you don’t promote or advertise any product. Such a great channel you have. Keep doing what you do and it will continue to grow and be successful. Best wishes and greetings from Belfast, Northern Ireland
Ray, I noticed that the old-new solenoid had a sound of a checkball bouncing when you commanded it off. The new-new solenoid didn't have that sound which is good. Also, notice to customers -- DON'T CLEAR YOUR CODES BEFORE TAKING YOUR VEHICLE TO A MECHANIC!!!!!
Back when I started in the field the small shop I worked at would not take jobs that the customer just wanted us to install parts without actually diagnosing the issue. The owner would tell them to find a backyard mechanic to do that kind of work LOL
Thanks for posting! I learn something new every time I log in. It must be a pain to fuss around with the camera while working...but, the real world lessons are so interesting...I can't help but watch. I'd subscribe twice, if I could. Great job.
Im sad to say that I didn’t have this issue with my car😂 I watched this video out of pure curiosity and it was very well explained. Very good content easy to understand keep up the good work im so used to sitting through tutorials of people rambling and struggling to do the job.
Years back, I had a Bronco 2 that I replaced 3 water pumps in a week from PepBoys. That was a hard lesson in, "because it's new doesn't mean it works".
Good morning Raymond, it's interesting how some people can fire a parts Canon and still not get the job done right without the proper test equipment! BROTHER 👍
Ray DID JUST THAT, and is STILL GUESSING as he "GETS THIS THING OUT OF HERE AND OUT OF MY SHOP" (his know-it-all Customer put down POLICY). And STILL GUESSING (till 'dumb' customer drives it for a month or so with no problem or CEL on). Ray STILL NEEDS BETTER PEOPLE/CUSTOMER attitude. (or they will not come in).
I work for a school corporation, had a 6.7 Cummins out of warranty turbo go bad. So I replaced both turbo and actuator with new parts from Cummins. 7 months down the road the actuator started acting up, I couldn’t believe it went bad, I did all the diagnostic checks according to quickserve, and decided it was bad so I got the part warrantied, so far it hasn’t had issues, and Cummins contacted me saying they won’t warranty new parts if they don’t install/diagnose so that’s lovely.
Canister vent valves are normally open. When you used your scan tool to turn it "off", you effectively left the valve open. It should leak smoke when open. It shouldn't leak smoke when you actuate it by turning it "on" with the scan tool. That actually closes it.
i had a similar issue with my 2000 Malibu. Evap code that wouldnt go away, replaced the purge valve, ruled that out as the problem, but ended up loading the parts cannon with another purge valve and the problem was solved. Gotta love those crappy aftermarket parts that may or may not work
I once had a MAF sensor go bad....had the option to buy a "not original" one that cost 1/6 of the original one. My reasoning at the time was, that it would have to work, because otherwise they would not sell one, and even if it only lasted me a few years, it would be cheaper to just replace it again. I still had the code for lean burn, and after some detective work i found out the unit was not working to returned to the place i bought it, who swapped it for a new, new one that i installed and that did not get rid of the problem. Talked to some guy that had a similar car, and he said that this particular engine ECU was VERY picky with the MAF, so i decided to just buy the original part. Car idled rough for 5 seconds after i started it from cold, then it just went quiet and i never had any codes or issues with the car, related to the MAF, for the rest of the time i owned that car. What pisses me off is that the "not original" part they sold, simply did not work at all....Like, it was not just the one i bought, and the one i got after that, but they simply sold a part, that was advertised for this particular engine, and car, but they never worked. How many people was buying this defective from factory part, installing it, and not solving the problem.
@@JohnDoe-bd5sz ive learned my lessons in the past and try to buy oem stuff whenever possible, atleast when it comes to electric parts. If the old part was original and held up for 150,000 miles without issue then i would just buy the oem part if its not ridiculously expensive. the quality control on the aftermarket stuff is lacking, and its sometimes worth saving myself a headache to pay a little more and stick with the oem part
@@nao_tomori That's the most frustrating thing, some of the stuff is really crappy, but then other "not original" stuff, is literally coming from the same factory. On monday, they put "GM" in the part, and on tuesday, they change to the other plastic moulding die's that just does not say "GM". It's really hard to know, when it's a good idea getting the oem part, and when you can get away with buying, essentially the oem part, just without the "GM" logo on it.
🔰🇺🇸 Stupid P0049 code…I’m pretty sure this is the exact same issue I’m having and have had with my 2008 Pontiac G8GT. In the summer, I have to wait for the gas tank to bleed off through the filler, otherwise the tank won’t fill and it’ll spray liquid gasoline back at me. - I replaced the evap canister and solenoid but the code keeps reappearing, so I’m thinking I gotta go for the tank sensor. It’s a pain too, since I gotta drop the rear cradle.
I just had to deal with the dreaded evap code on my cobalt. I threw the parts cannon at it and got it fixed. Luckily it was still cheaper that taking it to the shop or buying a smoke machine. Chevy evap parts are cheap, even the quality aftermarket stuff.
I built a 12v smoke machine from Lowe's plumbing parts and some other minor what-nots for about $25 and an hour of my time. All that's needed after building and using it is some baby oil and a small compressor. Even a 12v emergency roadside compressor will work fine. There's vids on RUclips on how to build one. They're super easy but irreplaceable as a diagnostic tool...especially on older Rust Belt buggies like my '03 Dakota.
I never take "hurry" jobs or jobs that give their own parts anymore. I just send them on their way to somewhere else and let them deal with it. People don't understand how often parts are faulty right out of the box and how much longer it takes us to deal with things because of that.
I accept them, in this day mode are on a tight budget and either buy parts themselves or back out of the repair alltogether! So I just accept it with a written statement explaining that if x number of things are not fixed or diagnosed x number of results are possible. This way they realize they should fix the parts I recommend based on evidence and proof of problem. Offer payment plans through loans. For example a guy came in with a 02 Jeep that had Wobbly suspension and car traveling left and right while driving straight. You can say these 4 parts probably fix it but scan tools can't see mechanical problems like worn bushings. So just lift the car for free and do a through inspection, I even let them look with me. This way they get confidence in the diagnosis and I can show them how many parts are bad. This Jeep had Upper and lower control arms, front and rear Sway Bars + links, tie rod ends, shocks and steering stabilizer that had very bad bushings with ½" play. That's a $2000+ in repairs and at least $1500 in quality parts. In that case they need a payment plan and a plan of action to try and save them money buy changing the most likely parts first to see if that fixed the issues. Shocks, tie rods, coil spring insulators and lower trailing arms first then rear upper control arm with ball joint second. All ball joints and control arms and Sway Bar Bushings and Links 3rd if needed because they come in a kit from Moog. Let's say 1st plan works, you print out the needed repairs and it's level of urgency so they fully understand that the problem can go back to before the repairs and or get worse without addressing all of the issues soon. But a lot of people want to only change dire problems today and needed problems a month later after the suspension snaps or wheel falls off.
A couple of days ago, I learned that Volkswagen is selling two types of spare parts. First ones are the usual good quality (less likely to fail) replacement parts which have VW and Audi's logos standing out in metal or plastic. Second ones are actually called "VW Econoparts" which are cheaper and you can notice the difference mainly because all the info, including the official logos, are "painted" or branded into the piece with ink. And you can read "VW AG" on them, many manufactured in Turkey, instead of Germany. Equaly sold in original and licenced VW packages.
I'm going to write a song and it will be entitled, "Doo Do DOO Do". LOL Seriously though, I love watching your posts. You display not only an incredible knowledge of mechanics, but also a great attitude and love toward your work. I wish there were mechanics like you in my neck of the woods. (MD)
Ray, you’re just showing off your FANCY and EXPENSIVE scan tool! Snap-On should cut the payments in half for you 🤪 Also, for whom the bell tolls? Nah.. for whom the grinder grinds…..!
My snap-on guy tried to sell me on one but I just couldnt bring myself to spend $100+ A month for the next 4 years. Went with a cheaper Autel and while not nearly as nice as the Apollo it gets the job done.
People that want to complain because they can't wait a few minutes for a proper diagnosis and then get angry if the issue isn't fixed perfectly! That just blows my mind.
"Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good" - man, I replaced all the plugs, distributor cap, rotor & points in a 1970 Datsun 240 Z because I had a misfire. The misfire persisted. DAMN! ALL NEW PARTS! I was frustrated one night so I opened the hood and it looked like a fireworks display! Sparks were jumping from every plug wire to the nearest ground! Every NEW plug wire had over 10,000 ohms resistance!
It sounds like the key to a successful repair job is to reset all the error codes before you take the car to the shop. I will add that to my list of things I learned today.
Hi Ray. Just a thought. Since the moral of this repair was “New isn’t necessarily good “. I know the purge solenoid clicked louder on your installed part. Wouldn’t it have been a good idea to smoke test it as well?? Since you had it hooked up anyway??
I just started the video, but if a customer asks for a specific repair without letting the garage diagnose the issue and even supplies their own part, then I would tell them I'll install the part, charge for the time, but not guarantee the repair. The only thing I guarantee is that the part is installed properly. Smoke test? Sure, but that takes some time to connect the smoker and go over the under-hood, the bottom, and gas tan areas for smoke. If the customer wants that, I'll bill them for it.
@@ohger1 A friend was a service manager at a chain repair store (mostly known for mufflers and rhymes with Monro) but had good techs and rapport enough to the community that people brought advanced repair work there. Nevertheless... his saying was (RIP) "You don't bring your own steak to the steak house do you? Why are you bringing unknown origin parts to ME then?"
Was about to leave the exact same comment. He had the smoke already hooked up. I would have smoke tested the new part as well just to make sure that I didn't replace a junk part with another junk part.
Gotta love it! Codes and freeze frame data cleared, original repair was just installing a customer-provided part on a vehicle that has clearly had the parts cannon fired at it. These are usually a waiter that has somewhere to be in 33 minutes on a Tuesday afternoon and is leaving for a cross country trip in their car at 3AM Wednesday morning. Ranks up there with a driveability complaint on a vehicle that has had the codes cleared and shows up out of fuel. As diagnostic technicians, we do our best to stay positive as well as be polite and cordial with the customers, but we do shake our heads from time to time.
The correct response to 'Mr. Hurried' is always "If I can't take the time to do the job right and I can't have the time to thoroughly test my work before returning your car to you then I cannot warranty the work and you're still going to pay full price. If your part happens to be bad I won't replace it for free the way I do with the parts I use- you'll pay full price again if that happens. Same deal if your part doesn't fix the problem. Now do you still want me to do this your way?" Pissed or not, they usually give you the job, and you get to do it the way you wanted it to be done- the right way. If they go away mad you've lost nothing; that type's never happy. If you get the job they usually end up bragging about how conscientious their mechanic is and you get the best in free advertising- priceless.
Talking about the quality of available car parts. I can remember when available parts were many times identical with factory parts. When Dodge came out with their first high tension ignition system, I had a 1978 Dodge van. The high tension system was a United Technologies system. The trouble was that the rotor cap, wiring and spark plugs couldn't handle the high tension. Every 25,000 miles, I had the plugs, rotor cap, and wiring at K-Mart for less that $20. I had to replace the control unit under the hood one time in 125,000 miles. I picked up a small printed brochure off a parts counter that explained the system and what to look for when components failed. In the early 1960s when I started working on my cars, manufacturers used many parts that were just standard off the shelf parts. It was the same with aircraft at that time. Bell Helicopter use PH-13 Fram filters. The same as used on Chevrolet. We would remove the filter from the Fram box, paint the filter gray, stamp it and a plain box with the Federal Stock number, then ship the filters to the government. Most hardware for litters, seats, etc. were just plain hardware store nuts and bolts.' But times change. Click.
When you commanded the valve off on the "old one" you could hear it drop and bounce, with the new one installed you could hear it actually move up and down, seems like an internal seal was defective on the "old one"
Getting cars in that the codes have been cleared from are the worst. Finally, most salvage and AA people seem to understand that we need codes to work with, so they either don't clear them or give us a print of the codes they found. Unfortunately, our factory diagnostic tool reads loads more codes that will also have been erased. For non-mechanic people reading this: codes and diagnostic tools are not magic, they are not the be all, end all of our existence and when a mechanic doesn't know how to interpret the codes or fails to see the connection between various codes, they're no help at all. A skilled and experienced mechanic needs the codes, because he can then interpret them and they will most likely set him on the right path to resolve the problem. Not always, but most of the time.
@@gailtaylor1636 LOL. I couldn't figure out why someone would have the codes erased before bringing are car in for diagnosis. At first I thought you were joking...
@@mrqsysopr Nope. Getting info out of customers is like pulling teeth. They refuse to just tell the truth like saying, my brother-in-law changed the radio and now the battery keeps going dead and it stalls at stop signs. Started right after. They refuse to see the correlation. Look at the money saved by having him screw up the car!
Dad is a licensed tech and years back he replaced a water pump on a Ford pickup with good name brand pump. He fired it up and it blew apart putting fan through rad. That was late 90's maybe
Do it right, do it once! Cheap parts are cheap for a reason. Low quality components and poor quality control means you 've got, in my experience, about a 20% chance of having to replace the part again. At least this purge valve is easy. Imagine if it was a fuel pump that you had to drop the tank to get to or an alternator that's buried (Looking at you, VW...) and takes several hours to R&R.
Dig your channel, my friend... You show us the right way of doing things, and the value of finding the root causes, not just treating the symptoms. But with that said -- It's truly disheartening that quality control has not been a priority for many years. Especially when some parts are very labor intensive which makes the job very costly for the Shade Tree mechanics like me and professionals like yourself. Many times, having to pay twice upfront exceeds the value of the vehicle, and/or the wallet of the one being billed. I know I'm not made of money and replacing a part is such a gamble that I have literally developed stomach ulcers from the anxiety. I used to love working on cars, but replacement part quality has sunk so far south that it's now a nitemare.
I hear YA, 1990 5.7 TPI. I thought that in buying GM parts like an EGR value and solenoid vacuum that was aftermarket was a Good Deal to take care of when a shop was replacing the intake gaskets. The shop was OK with that due to the parts being buried under the upper portion of the intake. Shop stated EGR was poop but the solenoid value GOOD. The new part was not tested being a new Delco part everything was button up when the failure was found. OH GEE upper removal again! They tested 3 more EGRs before finding a good one. Not really Drove home to engine light shining. Code was EGR again! poop A nearby shop check the code and also found a broken vacuum connector. Using a smoke tester like RAY used. There were a couple of other Items found that they were more than happy to show me. Shop#1 an expensive lesson! Shop#2 car is running like new. YUP nightmares and learning curve. Guys like Ray don't grow on trees, but there out there!
AZ & other stores will make good on the faulty part (s). I have a reman steering box that is just as bad as the one I took out. The labor and failed expectations of it all is what piss's me off the most about bad NEW parts.
Had a similar issue in my old 2011 335 E92. I diagnosed it down to the (Bosch) leak detection pump, which is like a $80 part that takes about 20 min to replace with a little bit of low crawling... This was early 2020 and car prices were dropping like a rock so I was in the process of buying a 19 440 F32. Got a great deal on the 440 but dealer tried to low ball me on my trade because even though the car looked damn near perfect it had an minor accident on the Carfax report.... So I did what any responsible person would do in this situation; cleared the code, handed it it, and let it become someone else's problem.
Very nice explanation of you diagnostic procedure. After selling Snap-on Diagnostics for 25 years that was my biggest training issue, always reminding Tech to follow a consistent procedure and not make assumptions. Nicely done.
No story that starts with "customer was in a hurry" ever ended well.
Or a customer that brings their own parts after billy parts counter person sold them a part…so customer will be paying for diagnostic and actual repair !
@@michaelknepp5640 shush, i worked at a parts counter and im FCA and ASE trained and certified.
@@michaelknepp5640
Its the GD blinker fluid, its always the Blinker fluid is low.
@@bobbg9041 I think that everyone knows that this "blinker fluid" thing is just a hoax to mess with stupid people!
The reality is, what needs to be checked at least bi-yearly is the Blue Blinker Grease! It's a specialized Blinker Grease of the highest quality..... annnnddddd.... IT'S BLUE!
Everybody know this.... geeze!
😁😅😂🤣
LOL
Sorry, I just could not resist.
@@voidy2077True, certifications are useful, but the best one can do over the counter is guess then roll out the parts cannon. Parts cannons sometimes fire blanks, like in a faulty new part. What's worse is the number of bogus "name brand" parts in the supply chain.
If every car repairman was as honest as you the world would be a better place!
As an apprentice mechanic...your channel is a god send. The shop I'm at likes to leave me to the wolves. They check. My work, but I'm on my own until I get stumped. Thanks to you. I rarely get stumped anymore...usually cuz I just don't have all the tools yet
@@Spindrift_Productions so is work in general....or aren't you aware of that? To work for currency, that someone else profits from. Is called economic slavery? Thus everyone is a slave to whichever corporation they live in. Cuz if you look at any cities, in north America, letterhead. It always says Corporation of. Thus every state, province, and territory are all corporations and everyone is a slave to them.
@@Spindrift_Productions well considering this is my second career, and I'm a first year apprentice. As I was a chef for 20 years. It's no diff than a kitchen. So maybe I'm just accustomed to learning from watching ppl and asking questions. I'm used to being left to my own devices and figure things out. Same as when I was in the military and was doing basic training. When you're on the bottom of the totem pole you have to be willing to do the grunt work and it's up to you to take on more. I've never had my hand held. You have to prove to the employer that you can do the work during the first year. Hell I also do part time roofing with my highschool best friend, and it's the same deal there. When you're at the bottom, you're doing all the grunt work. Unrelated work isn't unrelated if it's apart of how the shop operates. If it's something that a shop needs done, the owner had to do at some point in thier career. Apprenticeships aren't just the work to be a mechanic/chef, etc. it's also to be able to run a business. They teach you everything from the ground up even the basic stuff. I've seen ppl quit cuz they had to clean the shop. Saying the same thing you are. Sorry but I'm ok with it, if I want to be a high value person. I'm gona do everything it takes to get there. I'm not gona make reasons to stop. I don't have the time to at 38 years old. I gota do everything to get there. Everything.
As a hobbyist mechanich working on my own vehicles for the past 30 years, I've amassed many tools and RUclips videos from Ray and other creators like A1Auto parts have kept me from making costly mistakes
@@shamanosarcasm9800 I suspect that you are like me.
I too have been repairing my own vehicles (once out of warranty, of course) since I was a kid. I had brothers who where mechanics and engineers.
What I learned in life, was if I can fix something that a garage wants HUNDREDS or THOUSANDS of dollars for, I'm better off buying whatever equipment I need to do the job, even if it still costs a lot of $$$.
It turns out that I get the job done.... I KNOW that I got TOP QUALITY PARTS and not 'white box, knockoff JUNK" and then I have the tools left over for the next job(s).
So yeah, I'm a collector of tools and equipment. LOL
The only jobs I would never do is anything transmission related. It turns out, I've never had a transmission problem, so that worked out well. LOL
Also part of my doing my own work is because all too many shops are actually RIP OFF artists.
They literally make BS claims that x, y AND z are failing and need replacing when either it's NONE OF THOSE or just 1.
@@BlondieSL ain't that the truth! I tell my son, do your research (repair manuals, RUclips vids) and don't go cheap on tools cause you get what you pay for.
One thing I wish I had invested in early on was a quality scan tool. It would have eliminated a lot of guess work and shooting the parts cannon at the car trying to fix problems.
I went from having a couple tool boxes to two large rolling double stack tool chests seemingly overnight. I work in the medical field but I spend the bulk of my off time under a car or in the engine. I should have been a mechanic!!!
"Just because it's new, doesn't mean it's good" The entire reason warranties exist.
I've said for quite a few years now that if it's made by man, it can be bad right out of the box.
the part is warrantied, but the labor is not. That's why it's worth it to pay for quality the first time, regardless of a warranty.
"I feel your pain" in dealing with people, i've been a cab driver for 26 years
A barb in the backseat charge 200 bucks, Stupids 5 bucks extra.
Do you ever get Travis Bickle vibes?
@@nostalgiaof98 Are you talking to me ?
@@MrSteve420b well you did mention cab driver/taxi driver
@@MrSteve420b 😂
Reminds of a Cherokee water pump replaced by dealer in late '80s and the replacement pump had the impeller on backwards. Car overheat dummy lite went on about
2 miles down the road, drove back and it took the dealer 4 days to figure out the problem.
You hit the nail on the head about not even being able to buy quality parts any more... it's either cheap junk or expensive junk thanks to the great corporate CEO's that outsource everything to the cheapest bidder
You can still get decent quality german parts though at least thanks to a few companies out there.
Bingo! Toyota and Lexus are the only quality focused companies left when it comes to parts.
It is the Democrats who f up everything
David Rosario, Off topic and
inaccurate sir. Nor is it the
Republicans, conservatives or
progressives....it is in large
part people across the spectrum
who lack a moral compass and
are driven by greed.
@@garyowen3662 We, the consumers, are also to blame in a big way. As evidenced on this channel all the time, we cheap out and look for the cheapest alternative in most every aspect of life.
To all: The free market responds to demand. Be the change you want to see. Start creating demand for better products rather than just demanding better products. It’s always easy to blame greed, big business, etc. Remember that next time you buy from Harbor Freight, etc. You are telling all corporations that you prefer the cheaper alternatives. Can’t have it both ways.
Glad to hear the click on the schrader valve lol. Oh future reference GM vent valves will not open under pressure from the smoke machine. Test it out sometime on a known good you'll see what I mean. On GM if you have the system under full pressure of the smoke machine it will not open... Vacuum it will work fine though. Anyhow might help you out in the future 👍
Ray, for the love of Mardi Gras beads, listen to this man. Disclaimer: I'm not a sponsor.
Now that I see Eric O posting here I understand how I came to this channel being recommended to me. Both are Informative and entertaining.
Keep up the great job guys.
Hi Eric. I had to laugh a bit at him grabbing a smoke machine without any codes available. If he understood how to manually run the monitor he could have proved out the whole system.
Man I am having the same problem on my Honda but it keeps saying check fuel cap and sometimes the check engine light is on but it is freaking stupid I believe it said it was the purge valve solenoid
The best functional I've found for Evap stuff is the purge/seal command. It'll command purge to 0% and close the vent valve BUT let you run the purge valve open in percent steps. I like to do a quick smokeless test while I'm off working on something else by starting the engine, running the purge with the vent closed for a few seconds to pull a little vacuum on the tank then close the purge and watch vaccum rise to 0 and keep going above 0 as vapor pressure builds (well not watch but look back at the logged data graph). You can get a quick idea based on vacuum decay and pressure rise as to the size of the hole you're looking for and if the hole is even currently present or not. With the car off you can just watch natural vapor pressure rise to see if there's even a tiny leak after the repair. Based on hole size you can guess some likely culprits and you can run the purge valve to check it's operation and check the vent valve for 'does it even close?' quickly too. I've been seeing more GM's with failed purge valves that don't fully close and set leak codes or set incorrect purge codes AND rich codes. Those purge valves should be CLOSED when they're off, not half open!
I am impressed I learned something new. Reset codes before going to man to fix your ride. That is some next level thinking.
Exactly. I'm going to use the diagnosis of a counter person then go to the expensive mechanic and force him to waste time.
I was trying to give the guy a chance. Maybe he had the code reset thinking it would fix the problem so he could avoid the shop.
Maybe he hoped it would reset his purchase of an old Chevrolet trailblazer.
Personally, I would have told the customer to drive some more until the warning light came back on, then to bring the car in immediately.
The fist one had a sort of weak double click when it operated open whereas the one you installed Ray had a much longer and more positive sounding click. I would have loved to see the smoker was back on & we saw smoke coming out the newer one for visual confirmation. It is bazaar that he was angry considering he did not want a diagnostic performed the first time,, he provided the part and asked it be installed. And due to his actions the second time round he has the codes deleted at another shop. What a winner. He sounds like the type of person that you would rather not do any more work for.
I used to have a saying that a wise man told me. He said "some days you have to fire a customer"
" It is bazaar that he was angry " So what are you expecting from a guy that is deleting error codes just before he is bringing his car for diagnose? :D
sp: "Bizarre" actually.
[Grammar nazi in me just can't help it.....]
@@JohnH0130 LOL
sounded like the sealing gasket that should be on the end of the piston wasn't there, causing it to bounce and not seal.
Gotta love when they clear the code and all the history, then come to you expecting you to work miracles just because you're the mechanic.
Agreed with you, but maybe the cars instrument panel should read out check engine Problems, with a description of problem in the first place rather than a dummy check engine light with no explanation causing either panic or just ignore it...... I carry a diagnostic code reader with explanation of code number and problem description in car. I don't delete or clear codes, do my research when a code comes up, make an educated decision before paying for repairs.
I would have a hard time fixing this with 2 hands and you're doing it with one hand. You rock buddy.
I can verify broken new parts for you. I worked on a repair floor at General Motors for 30 years replacing brand new broken parts.
Thanks for the quick explanation on the EVAP..... Not of all us are mechanics in here and appreciate the lessons! A month ago I didn't even know how to swap a battery until I found your channel!
His explanation of the EVAP system is wrong.
That valve he replaced only lets fresh air into the tank to prevent a vacuum when the fuel level goes down. There is another line that connects to a charcoal canister that collects vapors from the fuel evaporating. when the charcoal gets saturated another valve opens and lets the engines vacuum suck out the vapors and burn them through the engine. This mechanic doesn't fully know his stuff, or he REALLY dumbed down his explanation. I don't think the repair he made was the correct one.
Facts! I installed a new 5.7 on a RAM 1500 and the engine was bad and had to redo the job. Good thing customer didn't have a chance to leave with the vehicle.
Mopar new, Mopar reman, or aftermarket reman?
Love the straight to the point no silliness no fake drama style. Thank you making the effort to film this.
“No fake drama style” Nice observation! Spot on!
??? I'm so confused... Who in their infinite wisdom decides "yes erase the code so I can take it to the shop and have them diagnose it" is a great idea.... Whatttt????
TIMMEH !!!
Most problems are related to the nut connecting the steering wheel to the drivers seat.
There's a short between the seat and the steering wheel.
Or as programmers say: pebkac (problem exists between keyboard and chair).
Justin, your right, that boggles ones mind!!!
I was at a parts store once, an employee was pulling the trouble codes for a customer. The customer asked him to clear the codes, and the employee said they had a policy to NOT clear the codes. That was a few years back, not sure if they still have that policy.
I've been caught parroting your "Click!" and telephone alerts regularly now, to the tune of ~80% accuracy. Great content!
As always I learned something.
I’m So glad I turned my back on that industry years ago… hats off to that guy customers require even more patience than actually fixing/ trouble shooting vehicle issues, never let an owner diagnose their own vehicle
I had to replace a purge valve solenoid on our 07 tahoe , first code popped up was "tighten gas cap" bought a new gas cap.
Cleared that code for that also had a pending code for the purge valve an it was gone show up anytime. So I knew that's the next part to replace.
After replacing both parts i have no problem filling up gas or 3 cranks to start after a fill up, that happened first before replacing the purge valve.
Gas cap was probably worn from over the years since 2007 till now.
Thanks for the basic explanation of the evap system. I was having problems with the evap system on my Wrangler and didn't really understand what it was at the time.
Funny story about that Jeep: I got it off an auction, sight unseen. It turned out to have massive problems all throughout. I was pretty bummed about the cost of repairs needed to get the thing running right and driving straight. One day, the clutch hydraulic system sprung a leak and I started losing clutch pressure. As I drove down the freeway toward home, cursing the Jeep the whole way, the Ram 3500 behind me decided to check his phone right as we approached a traffic jam, and slammed into the back of me going 70mph. Needless to say, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The money-pit/death-trap Jeep was totaled and I ended up getting a descent sized insurance claim settlement. That's one way to fix a problem vehicle.
Hopefully you replaced it with something reliable like a Toyota. I sold my Jeep and replaced it with a Tacoma. Could not be happier.
@@MrMikey1273 Can't say on the newer ones, but folks who have older Tacoma's tend to not want to sell them till they're either rusted to bits or totally worn out. That should tell you something about them...
I have communicated to RUclips that I approve of your work good sir.
My 2002 Trailblazer lasted 20 years with no major issues. Sold it because it was old and wanted some new tech. Hopefully my new suv will last that long. There was a recall on the gas tank/ assoc parts. Free replacement.
You articulate well.
Your depth of knowledge floors me.
Your camera skills ROCK😎
For peace of mind I would have left the smoke machine hooked up to visually verify that the new part was indeed working. I know your old fingers felt a much more positive action going on, but it would of been good to get a visual confirmation of seeing the old smoke escape. But just unbelievable how some people behave - stopping at the parts store and getting them to erase the DTC's right before coming to you. You just can't make that stuff up! At the very least he should have got the parts store to give him a record of the code or codes they found. I do hope you politely pointed out to him the error of their ways!
I have read that the American psychiatric manual (I think it’s called) that lists all the definitions of possible mental problems is so comprehensive that EVERYONE has been crazy at some time in their life. That being said I would start to look for this guys definition under “paranoia”. I expect he’s, under the right circumstances, committable.
He has Snap On tools he is the smarted lube tech out there. If you own Snap On tools you're the worlds bes he don;t need to smoke it no more he said he was confident lol
@@billchessell8213 LoL, Bill, that was a real knee slapper there !!! I almost spewed my coffee all over my keyboard !!!! Who knew you could read !!!!
Favorite part of your vids is the mocking of the phone haha
Yeah, that and the "click" when he uses the ratchet
Wobbly bits
Gravity!
Dooo DOOOO doooo
**Least favorite
I wish I had mechanics like this dude. Dealing with this guy is so easy. He also knows his work pretty well.
I'm not educated on vehicles but your videos are teaching me a lot and I'm finding them fascinating to watch!
Love how great of a diagnostic mechanic you are sir. Thorough as well as honest! The best mechanic I've seen
There's an electronics repair guy in New York - Louis Rossman - who ends his videos with "That's it for today, and as always, I hope you learned something." - This applies equally well to your videos.
Bro who is Louis Rossman I don't know that man
Louis is the most vocal right to repair advocate for electronics. Automobiles are actually right to repair items. Amazing that a complex item such as a car can be fixed by the dealer, an independent or even you at home. But be able to fix your iphone, heck no. You could take money out of the hands of apple. Even their new program is riddled with loop holes.
I was jk I love Louis
@@samholdsworth420 I figured you watched Lewis. Still want to help inform those who don't know him. Right to repair in all industries is really important for our future
Been following Louis R through his new store move and (The Floor)
The ONE THING that has hit home to me in watching this series is that if you don’t have the right tools you are screwed.
I do not go out and buy random parts until I know for sure what is broke. That's like right now my expedition is throwing two codes. When I locked up what might be the cause most of the articles and videos out there all say mass air sensor. Then I found other videos telling me the PVC hose is normally what is wrong.
So tomorrow I'm going to do exactly what you did here and smoke the engine and verify what is going on before buying any parts.
With a smoke machines that are out now it really helps figuring out things quickly. Has anyone who has ever had a vacuum leak you know how much of a pain in the butt it is to find it. Normally with the smoke machine within minutes you see where you have an issue.
As always I made sure to give you a big old thumbs up. Look forward to watching another one of your videos.
Man, you just can't catch a break! Dude has the codes cleared & 'then'' expects you to diagnose ~ "Sheeeeesh!"
pre broken new parts, 2022 is going to be quite the ride me thinks and it's always the little guy that picks up the tab
Yeah, those pre-broken parts are all the rage. Get yourself one while the going is good!
great depression part 2
@@M.TTT. you mean build back better lol
@@nicholasviney5975 lol yeeaaa
Ah, I only buy oem or very high quality aftermarket. New broken parts are very low
Always use original GM evap parts only on GM's. Same thing happened to me. Bought a purge solenoid from Autozone, lasted 2 weeks. Replaced with AC Delco 3 years ago still working fine.
Love your videos Ray. As a GMC dealer tech that deals with evap issues on GMs every single day, i want to chime in on this one. I like to start with evap systems by performing a purge/seal with the scan tool engine running. That can often give you a good indication whether you’ve got a system that just won’t hold vacuum, a vent solenoid that isn’t closing, massive leak, fuel tank pressure sensor that’s lying, etc, just gives a quick preliminary of what the system is doing before breaking out the smoke machine or anything like that.
Now the second thing i want to mention, on GM vent valves, turning them “on” energizes the solenoid and CLOSES the valve. So I’m a little confused on why you’re expecting there to be smoke coming out when you turn it on? Unless i was just misunderstanding. Turning the valve off should open it and allow smoke to escape.
Is it true that smoke doesn't open valve on GMs?
@@abccde3832 apparently yes from everything I've gathered, but my experience with a proper smoke machine is non existent but the actual verified mechanics I've seen are saying yes
@@michaelf.2449 very good to know, thanks!
Watched like 50 of your videos then realized I wasn’t subbed. I don’t even like working on cars but I love how informative you are.
Hope to see you reach 1mil subs
The problem with him reaching a mil is that when the money starts changing his life it also changes the content, and I really don’t need to see diagnostics on a Konenigsegg.
You could definitely hear a difference in the audible sound of the off and on of that valve
"Click" (or is that an achieved torque setting?) 😉
That's because the piece is banging against an end-stop when the solenoid energises, and just falling out with gravity when it loses power. So you get a click, snap or clack when on and a rattle when off
Troy feels like I did when I got the call from the shipping company saying I had the wrong address and if I had a phone number so they could get the package to you. I'm impressed that you didn't start yelling at Troy for the wiring mistake. Obviously he didn't notice the crank sensor wasn't connected, he should have been with you when you were coming up with a solution to fix the problem instead of going for lunch because he was mad. At least he didn't start throwing tools like some people do. Good job on coming up with a solution to correct the situation.
As stated there is a function test that you can run with the scanner to do a test on evap system. Smoke testing isn't a very good way to check an Eva system. They won't always open the valve because they are low pressure. Run the function test and see what it shows then go from there.
After changing out my Evap canister on an Envoy, I learned to never overfill my gas again. All that extra clicking bought me some back time on the cold driveway lol.
LoL, yeah, I used to pack the fuel tank too, not any more.
Brother, I wish your shop was near me. I have had no luck having my Impala repaired from 3 different mechanics. I love your videos. Keep them coming.
@Uriel Ventris
Good, competent, HONEST mechanics with skills are RARE as needle in a hay stack. Same problem here...
What sort of issue are you having?
@@Zxceelxuz Intermittent failure to start. The security light will come on. I have to do the 10 minute reset then it's all ok for a while. I've had the dealer and other shops "work" on the BCM but it still comes back. Basically, it sits in the driveway now because I can't trust it to start again. 2006 Impala.
I love it when customers clear codes before bringing it to me. I'm so busy I tell them to drive it and when the light comes back to not reset it and come see me.
You are a 1000% correct about pretty much all parts being junk. Straight from the dealer or off the cheapest parts shelf, there aren't very many high quality parts anymore. And your customer had the light shut off to diagnose the light on, what a brainiac! Great video Ray, you have a great day too. 👍👍
Awesome 😎 I own 2 Chevy Trailblazers a 04 and 05 love to see your experience used on these vehicles it increases my knowledge when weird things go wrong with mine 🤣 Thank you very much 👍🏼
I had an 04. I liked most everything about it except the damn ridiculously complicated and overly sensitive independent vent/duct damper motors. They'll go electronically belly up just changing or disconnecting the battery. I've been a mechanic of various genre's my entire life and consider myself a patient man but I'll tell ya...those damper motors made me walk away inventing new swear words more than once.
@@gregoryking9348 on my 04 my fan speed resistor has melted the plastic electrical plug so now my blower motor hasn't worked for 6 months now 😠 I was wondering why there was a faint smell of burning plastic sometimes as I'd drive around 😂
@Jimmy S The GMC Envoy is the same as the Chevrolet Trailblazer both came in 2 sizes a standard and an extended version that added a third row of seats. 😎
I had a car that was having starting issues, so I had the battery tested and it was bad. I put in a high dollar Gold series 7 year battery. I still had starting issues, so I replaced the starter, then the cables, and.I still had issues..so I took it to the service station that sold me the new battery. They analyzed and checked everything - it was the brand new battery. The first part that I replaced was still the issue.
I have installed those batteries at a parts store I used to work at. There is nothing more embarrassing than having a brand new battery go "click"
I’m a total dunce when it comes to working on cars. I’ve changed oil on several of my cars, replaced brake pads, fuel pump, water pump, batteries, spark plugs, headlights, a radiator and changed several flat ties, wipers and a few other sorted parts. But that was 20+ years ago!
The cars today have so much junk on them, I’m not even qualified to check the oil. 😂
Your videos are enlightening and entertaining. You explain things very well and present it in a humorous way that us common folks can understand and appreciate.
Thanks!
If I was in your area, I'd get you to do all my work. You are probably the most patient and positive mechanic I've ever heard speak. Most would be cursing this guy for doing what he did and then being upset. I'd side with the disgruntled mechanic but good on you for your attitude!!
I so enjoy watching your diagnostic process. You are an extreme professional!
"Balls" said the queen. If I had them, I'd be King
You inspired me to film my first video today. A quick track change on our excavator at work. It didn't turn out very well, it was just a phone set down watching me work, but it was a lot of fun doing it.
Link?
@@billchessell8213 I didn't think to cover up our company logo, I don't feel comfortable posting it. It probably wouldn't matter, but I don't need any extra headaches.
My big fear when I can't verify something is bad easily. The average home repair guy just accepts that a new part is a working part.
When a customer goes cheap , pay twice 😂
Have a great weekend everyone and a great day of course ! 👍
I learned that lesson having my mechanic install ebay sourced wheel bearings on a Prius. Didn't last long, neither did the warranty replacement ones. Mechanic was happy, cuz I had to pay them twice lol. I think it was still cheaper than the OEMs they wanted to do in the end, but I won't do that again.
@@Solkre82 , people buy Toyota for reliability , putting cheap part on Toyota is like shooting yourself in the foot
I can’t learn that lesson fast enough
@@tstocker6926 😂 true
@@Solkre82 what about a used one
I am surprised you took the smoke machine away before mounting the new valve. Audible test ok
Smoke test better.
I thought the same
@@Charlie_Crown Yep.. But i am not sure its fixed.. If the solenoids are working its probably OK valve.
Yes!!!! Seems silly..
@@TheJcrandazzo Of course it's fixed. It's Ray, remember ? :- )
@@loubakker5000 could be??
Just an FYI from my own experience this goes double on GM vehicles and triple on GM trucks if you have a repeated failure of a vent valve check the vapor canister. Remove it and turn it upside down if charcoal comes out that is the root of the problem to fix it. Replace the canister and remove all of the vapor lines and blow them out from the purge solenoid all the way to the vent. In my experience to do this properly I usually have to drop the fuel tank. Good luck guys I hope this helps.
I replaced the vent valve, purge valve, gas cap and canister on my ‘05 Tahoe. The line from the canister to the tank was clogged with carbon pellets. I vacuumed them all out (realized afterwards how dangerous that was - explosion risk). The error code came back later (P0449 I think) and I’m getting a replace gas cap message in the DIC. I’m wondering if there may have been an o-ring in the connector of the hose going to the tank that might have gotten sucked into the vacuum. Or, maybe I got a defective cap? I haven’t yet checked the filler hose for leaks. Thoughts?
🔰🇺🇸 I’m pretty sure this is the exact same issue I’m having and have had with my 2008 Pontiac G8GT. In the summer, I have to wait for the gas tank to bleed off through the filler, otherwise the tank won’t fill and it’ll spray liquid gasoline back at me.
Thx for the real world work.
The other guys just talk through the diagnosis/ repair process. This is a whole new game Spot on point
Thx for your videos ✌️
I agree with comment from South Main Auto Repair LLC. I've been fooled by that valve not opening when there is pressure from the smoke tester in the system. However, it appeared that Ray did not really have a tight seal where the smoke machine connected to the test port so I wonder how much pressure there was in they system.
I had 3 starters and 2 alternators in a row that were broken directly out of the box for a '78 Ford Country Squire with a 302. The customer insisted we use his parts. Shop manager told him to get his money back and go to the Napa or the Car Quest down the street from our shop
I drive an old 60s box truck for years and it was going through a clutch every 9 months. My boss was always saying I was fucking it up and I was stressed out thinking that I was doing something wrong. But he hired a new mechanic for the trucks and they found a piece of the clutch installed backwards 😅 my boss never said sorry or even told me. I learned from another manager after I said my truck was driving better lol
BS, it was the battery connection the whole time.
I had a MAf fail after a month it blew up hot wire melted and blew the fuse. It was a OEM part too so it’s luck of the draw half the time
Back when I was just getting into mechanicking around high school days I learned three main lessons,
1. I was more of a real mechanic not just a parts changer.
2. There is PLENTY of such things as
' brand new junk '
But most of all, the thing that kept me from becoming a professional car mechanic, was the ' since you worked on my brakes my windshield wipers don't work ' scenario.
I experienced way too much of that before I was even out of high school.
@@michaelszczys8316 got my window replaced and when got the car back my washer fluid wasn’t really spraying almost like a pinched hose sure enough I looked and the wiper arm was pinching the hose just unpinched the hose and it worked again no big deal. But most people don’t even know anything about cars and that’s why I say at least learn the basics cause yes the glass place accidentally pinched my washer hose but it was a simple fix and I still gave them company a good review. Most would head back and start yelling at the workers there you broke this it worked when I brought it too you then they leave a bad review even though the work done was good. Mistakes happen it was not serious and I figured it out in 2 seconds.
thank you RR. your patience is what makes a professional diagnostic mechanic worth his employment. Peace DVD:)
I have had this problem, and have paid for two smoke test. The smoke test did not show any leaks. I also smelled gas fumes at times. No mechanic could find the leak so I looked over the evap system myself. I found a cracked vapor canister purge valve, and a crack in the hose that went from the fuel tank to the fuel tank vent solenoid. The vapor canister purge valve was plastic, and getting old. The plastic was also getting brittle. I replaced the purge valve, and fixed the cracked hose. That fixed the problem for me.
Have a great day Ray and thanks for all your informative, educational and entertaining content. You have a very unique channel in that you don’t promote or advertise any product. Such a great channel you have. Keep doing what you do and it will continue to grow and be successful. Best wishes and greetings from Belfast, Northern Ireland
Actually he DOES promote/advertise the "Angry Pliers', see the video info text above. Nothing wrong with that, fella gotta make a living.
“Title text here” I love it 😂.
You’re videos are awesome bud!
I’m here to remind you to remind me to not forget to have a great day!
I did a non-automotive repair this weekend and did a "click" with screwdriver in hand...THANKS!!!
i had a 2004 Trailblazer LS...i had it for 6 incredible trouble free years. started every single time.
Ray, I noticed that the old-new solenoid had a sound of a checkball bouncing when you commanded it off. The new-new solenoid didn't have that sound which is good.
Also, notice to customers -- DON'T CLEAR YOUR CODES BEFORE TAKING YOUR VEHICLE TO A MECHANIC!!!!!
Your also notice should be “ don’t be cheap on auto care ! Pay for a proper diagnoses and let the shop do their job” !
Back when I started in the field the small shop I worked at would not take jobs that the customer just wanted us to install parts without actually diagnosing the issue. The owner would tell them to find a backyard mechanic to do that kind of work LOL
That is why parts have warranties. Sometimes new things fail. You stay safe!
Rainman Ray is a man's man. He does he best work one handed and in the dark.
Thanks for posting! I learn something new every time I log in. It must be a pain to fuss around with the camera while working...but, the real world lessons are so interesting...I can't help but watch. I'd subscribe twice, if I could. Great job.
Customer is always angry, they're always happy to rub somebody's mistake in their face but hate when it happens to them
Is it possible mechanics give a vibe of being above mistakes.
Maybe we should stop pointing fingers and just say this is how a good bit of humans react :)
Im sad to say that I didn’t have this issue with my car😂 I watched this video out of pure curiosity and it was very well explained. Very good content easy to understand keep up the good work im so used to sitting through tutorials of people rambling and struggling to do the job.
Years back, I had a Bronco 2 that I replaced 3 water pumps in a week from PepBoys.
That was a hard lesson in, "because it's new doesn't mean it works".
When I send parts back I write "BAD" on them with a paint pen so if they ship it out again it'll save a tech some grief.
You're cool.
NFG= No F***ing Good
Should use an Engraving Pen . Paint can be washed off.............
"I've been a bad little vent valve :)"
Good morning Raymond, it's interesting how some people can fire a parts Canon and still not get the job done right without the proper test equipment! BROTHER 👍
Ray DID JUST THAT, and is STILL GUESSING as he "GETS THIS THING OUT OF HERE AND OUT OF MY SHOP" (his know-it-all Customer put down POLICY). And STILL GUESSING (till 'dumb' customer drives it for a month or so with no problem or CEL on). Ray STILL NEEDS BETTER PEOPLE/CUSTOMER attitude. (or they will not come in).
I work for a school corporation, had a 6.7 Cummins out of warranty turbo go bad. So I replaced both turbo and actuator with new parts from Cummins. 7 months down the road the actuator started acting up, I couldn’t believe it went bad, I did all the diagnostic checks according to quickserve, and decided it was bad so I got the part warrantied, so far it hasn’t had issues, and Cummins contacted me saying they won’t warranty new parts if they don’t install/diagnose so that’s lovely.
Canister vent valves are normally open. When you used your scan tool to turn it "off", you effectively left the valve open. It should leak smoke when open. It shouldn't leak smoke when you actuate it by turning it "on" with the scan tool. That actually closes it.
i had a similar issue with my 2000 Malibu. Evap code that wouldnt go away, replaced the purge valve, ruled that out as the problem, but ended up loading the parts cannon with another purge valve and the problem was solved. Gotta love those crappy aftermarket parts that may or may not work
I once had a MAF sensor go bad....had the option to buy a "not original" one that cost 1/6 of the original one.
My reasoning at the time was, that it would have to work, because otherwise they would not sell one, and even if it only lasted me a few years, it would be cheaper to just replace it again.
I still had the code for lean burn, and after some detective work i found out the unit was not working to returned to the place i bought it, who swapped it for a new, new one that i installed and that did not get rid of the problem.
Talked to some guy that had a similar car, and he said that this particular engine ECU was VERY picky with the MAF, so i decided to just buy the original part.
Car idled rough for 5 seconds after i started it from cold, then it just went quiet and i never had any codes or issues with the car, related to the MAF, for the rest of the time i owned that car.
What pisses me off is that the "not original" part they sold, simply did not work at all....Like, it was not just the one i bought, and the one i got after that, but they simply sold a part, that was advertised for this particular engine, and car, but they never worked.
How many people was buying this defective from factory part, installing it, and not solving the problem.
@@JohnDoe-bd5sz ive learned my lessons in the past and try to buy oem stuff whenever possible, atleast when it comes to electric parts. If the old part was original and held up for 150,000 miles without issue then i would just buy the oem part if its not ridiculously expensive. the quality control on the aftermarket stuff is lacking, and its sometimes worth saving myself a headache to pay a little more and stick with the oem part
@@nao_tomori That's the most frustrating thing, some of the stuff is really crappy, but then other "not original" stuff, is literally coming from the same factory.
On monday, they put "GM" in the part, and on tuesday, they change to the other plastic moulding die's that just does not say "GM".
It's really hard to know, when it's a good idea getting the oem part, and when you can get away with buying, essentially the oem part, just without the "GM" logo on it.
🔰🇺🇸 Stupid P0049 code…I’m pretty sure this is the exact same issue I’m having and have had with my 2008 Pontiac G8GT. In the summer, I have to wait for the gas tank to bleed off through the filler, otherwise the tank won’t fill and it’ll spray liquid gasoline back at me.
- I replaced the evap canister and solenoid but the code keeps reappearing, so I’m thinking I gotta go for the tank sensor. It’s a pain too, since I gotta drop the rear cradle.
I just had to deal with the dreaded evap code on my cobalt. I threw the parts cannon at it and got it fixed. Luckily it was still cheaper that taking it to the shop or buying a smoke machine. Chevy evap parts are cheap, even the quality aftermarket stuff.
I built a 12v smoke machine from Lowe's plumbing parts and some other minor what-nots for about $25 and an hour of my time. All that's needed after building and using it is some baby oil and a small compressor. Even a 12v emergency roadside compressor will work fine.
There's vids on RUclips on how to build one. They're super easy but irreplaceable as a diagnostic tool...especially on older Rust Belt buggies like my '03 Dakota.
@@gregoryking9348 thanks for the info, I’ll look into that next time I get those pesky evap codes.
@@mikeymarriott I bought one made from an ammo can on ebay for around $60 a couple of years ago. It paid for itself on the first use.
@@gregoryking9348 Very interesting.Thanks,I'm going right now to check those out
I’m always impressed there are that many commands in the computer. Also realizing that after market parts are hit and miss. Also wasn’t it his part.
Ray cool old video,The funny thing is even the good parts are mass produced. Have a nice Sunday
I never take "hurry" jobs or jobs that give their own parts anymore. I just send them on their way to somewhere else and let them deal with it. People don't understand how often parts are faulty right out of the box and how much longer it takes us to deal with things because of that.
I accept them, in this day mode are on a tight budget and either buy parts themselves or back out of the repair alltogether!
So I just accept it with a written statement explaining that if x number of things are not fixed or diagnosed x number of results are possible.
This way they realize they should fix the parts I recommend based on evidence and proof of problem.
Offer payment plans through loans.
For example a guy came in with a 02 Jeep that had Wobbly suspension and car traveling left and right while driving straight.
You can say these 4 parts probably fix it but scan tools can't see mechanical problems like worn bushings.
So just lift the car for free and do a through inspection, I even let them look with me. This way they get confidence in the diagnosis and I can show them how many parts are bad.
This Jeep had Upper and lower control arms, front and rear Sway Bars + links, tie rod ends, shocks and steering stabilizer that had very bad bushings with ½" play.
That's a $2000+ in repairs and at least $1500 in quality parts.
In that case they need a payment plan and a plan of action to try and save them money buy changing the most likely parts first to see if that fixed the issues.
Shocks, tie rods, coil spring insulators and lower trailing arms first then rear upper control arm with ball joint second. All ball joints and control arms and Sway Bar Bushings and Links 3rd if needed because they come in a kit from Moog.
Let's say 1st plan works, you print out the needed repairs and it's level of urgency so they fully understand that the problem can go back to before the repairs and or get worse without addressing all of the issues soon.
But a lot of people want to only change dire problems today and needed problems a month later after the suspension snaps or wheel falls off.
Hah! You should make a video on repairing a faulty *customer!*
A couple of days ago, I learned that Volkswagen is selling two types of spare parts. First ones are the usual good quality (less likely to fail) replacement parts which have VW and Audi's logos standing out in metal or plastic.
Second ones are actually called "VW Econoparts" which are cheaper and you can notice the difference mainly because all the info, including the official logos, are "painted" or branded into the piece with ink. And you can read "VW AG" on them, many manufactured in Turkey, instead of Germany. Equaly sold in original and licenced VW packages.
I'm going to write a song and it will be entitled, "Doo Do DOO Do". LOL
Seriously though, I love watching your posts. You display not only an incredible knowledge of mechanics, but also a great attitude and love toward your work. I wish there were mechanics like you in my neck of the woods. (MD)
Man has next level thinking
Ray, you’re just showing off your FANCY and EXPENSIVE scan tool! Snap-On should cut the payments in half for you 🤪
Also, for whom the bell tolls? Nah.. for whom the grinder grinds…..!
Believe the autozone fancy scan tool is like $500
@@WarriorOfEden3033 I was talking about Ray’s new fancy Snap-On scan tool, I get jealous every time he busts it out, lol
My snap-on guy tried to sell me on one but I just couldnt bring myself to spend $100+ A month for the next 4 years. Went with a cheaper Autel and while not nearly as nice as the Apollo it gets the job done.
People that want to complain because they can't wait a few minutes for a proper diagnosis and then get angry if the issue isn't fixed perfectly! That just blows my mind.
"Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good" - man, I replaced all the plugs, distributor cap, rotor & points in a 1970 Datsun 240 Z because I had a misfire. The misfire persisted. DAMN! ALL NEW PARTS! I was frustrated one night so I opened the hood and it looked like a fireworks display! Sparks were jumping from every plug wire to the nearest ground! Every NEW plug wire had over 10,000 ohms resistance!
It sounds like the key to a successful repair job is to reset all the error codes before you take the car to the shop. I will add that to my list of things I learned today.
Hi Ray. Just a thought. Since the moral of this repair was “New isn’t necessarily good “. I know the purge solenoid clicked louder on your installed part. Wouldn’t it have been a good idea to smoke test it as well?? Since you had it hooked up anyway??
I just started the video, but if a customer asks for a specific repair without letting the garage diagnose the issue and even supplies their own part, then I would tell them I'll install the part, charge for the time, but not guarantee the repair. The only thing I guarantee is that the part is installed properly. Smoke test? Sure, but that takes some time to connect the smoker and go over the under-hood, the bottom, and gas tan areas for smoke. If the customer wants that, I'll bill them for it.
@@ohger1 A friend was a service manager at a chain repair store (mostly known for mufflers and rhymes with Monro) but had good techs and rapport enough to the community that people brought advanced repair work there. Nevertheless... his saying was (RIP) "You don't bring your own steak to the steak house do you? Why are you bringing unknown origin parts to ME then?"
Was about to leave the exact same comment. He had the smoke already hooked up. I would have smoke tested the new part as well just to make sure that I didn't replace a junk part with another junk part.
He said it himself replace this new junk with another new junk 😀 so he should have smoke tested it.....
Yep, I was waiting to see the smoke come out of the new one…and then the smoke machine was unhooked. Seemed out of character for the good Rainman.
Gotta love it! Codes and freeze frame data cleared, original repair was just installing a customer-provided part on a vehicle that has clearly had the parts cannon fired at it. These are usually a waiter that has somewhere to be in 33 minutes on a Tuesday afternoon and is leaving for a cross country trip in their car at 3AM Wednesday morning. Ranks up there with a driveability complaint on a vehicle that has had the codes cleared and shows up out of fuel. As diagnostic technicians, we do our best to stay positive as well as be polite and cordial with the customers, but we do shake our heads from time to time.
The correct response to 'Mr. Hurried' is always "If I can't take the time to do the job right and I can't have the time to thoroughly test my work before returning your car to you then I cannot warranty the work and you're still going to pay full price. If your part happens to be bad I won't replace it for free the way I do with the parts I use- you'll pay full price again if that happens. Same deal if your part doesn't fix the problem. Now do you still want me to do this your way?" Pissed or not, they usually give you the job, and you get to do it the way you wanted it to be done- the right way. If they go away mad you've lost nothing; that type's never happy. If you get the job they usually end up bragging about how conscientious their mechanic is and you get the best in free advertising- priceless.
Talking about the quality of available car parts. I can remember when available parts were many times identical with factory parts.
When Dodge came out with their first high tension ignition system, I had a 1978 Dodge van. The high tension system was a United Technologies system. The trouble was that the rotor cap, wiring and spark plugs couldn't handle the high tension. Every 25,000 miles, I had the plugs, rotor cap, and wiring at K-Mart for less that $20. I had to replace the control unit under the hood one time in 125,000 miles. I picked up a small printed brochure off a parts counter that explained the system and what to look for when components failed.
In the early 1960s when I started working on my cars, manufacturers used many parts that were just standard off the shelf parts.
It was the same with aircraft at that time. Bell Helicopter use PH-13 Fram filters. The same as used on Chevrolet. We would remove the filter from the Fram box, paint the filter gray, stamp it and a plain box with the Federal Stock number, then ship the filters to the government.
Most hardware for litters, seats, etc. were just plain hardware store nuts and bolts.'
But times change. Click.
Honorable mention as a built-in breakdown goes to the porcelain double resistor block that operated at roughly the surface temp of the sun.
When you commanded the valve off on the "old one" you could hear it drop and bounce, with the new one installed you could hear it actually move up and down, seems like an internal seal was defective on the "old one"
Getting cars in that the codes have been cleared from are the worst. Finally, most salvage and AA people seem to understand that we need codes to work with, so they either don't clear them or give us a print of the codes they found.
Unfortunately, our factory diagnostic tool reads loads more codes that will also have been erased.
For non-mechanic people reading this: codes and diagnostic tools are not magic, they are not the be all, end all of our existence and when a mechanic doesn't know how to interpret the codes or fails to see the connection between various codes, they're no help at all.
A skilled and experienced mechanic needs the codes, because he can then interpret them and they will most likely set him on the right path to resolve the problem.
Not always, but most of the time.
Customer think having codes in the system will somehow make the repair cost more.
@@gailtaylor1636 LOL. I couldn't figure out why someone would have the codes erased before bringing are car in for diagnosis. At first I thought you were joking...
@@mrqsysopr Nope. Getting info out of customers is like pulling teeth. They refuse to just tell the truth like saying, my brother-in-law changed the radio and now the battery keeps going dead and it stalls at stop signs. Started right after. They refuse to see the correlation. Look at the money saved by having him screw up the car!
Good to know 👍
@@mrqsysopr a lot of times they do it to hide something. Like tuners that delete certain things to get around normal stock system.
Dad is a licensed tech and years back he replaced a water pump on a Ford pickup with good name brand pump. He fired it up and it blew apart putting fan through rad. That was late 90's maybe
"Title Text Here" Lol little editing glitch, Love your channel I can't stop listening to it while I work.
Do it right, do it once! Cheap parts are cheap for a reason. Low quality components and poor quality control means you 've got, in my experience, about a 20% chance of having to replace the part again. At least this purge valve is easy. Imagine if it was a fuel pump that you had to drop the tank to get to or an alternator that's buried (Looking at you, VW...) and takes several hours to R&R.
that is why ill never own a transverse mounted engine car and why i cut an access hole in the trunk of my mustang- $11 fuel pump and 20 min r&r
@@ufartface or buy a European car where they include an access panel...
@@securi-t and the parts are three times more expensive!!!
Dig your channel, my friend... You show us the right way of doing things, and the value of finding the root causes, not just treating the symptoms. But with that said -- It's truly disheartening that quality control has not been a priority for many years. Especially when some parts are very labor intensive which makes the job very costly for the Shade Tree mechanics like me and professionals like yourself. Many times, having to pay twice upfront exceeds the value of the vehicle, and/or the wallet of the one being billed. I know I'm not made of money and replacing a part is such a gamble that I have literally developed stomach ulcers from the anxiety. I used to love working on cars, but replacement part quality has sunk so far south that it's now a nitemare.
I hear YA, 1990 5.7 TPI. I thought that in buying GM parts like an EGR value and solenoid vacuum that was aftermarket was a Good Deal to take care of when a shop was replacing the intake gaskets. The shop was OK with that due to the parts being buried under the upper portion of the intake. Shop stated EGR was poop but the solenoid value GOOD. The new part was not tested being a new Delco part everything was button up when the failure was found. OH GEE upper removal again! They tested 3 more EGRs before finding a good one. Not really Drove home to engine light shining. Code was EGR again! poop A nearby shop check the code and also found a broken vacuum connector. Using a smoke tester like RAY used.
There were a couple of other Items found that they were more than happy to show me. Shop#1 an expensive lesson! Shop#2 car is running like new. YUP nightmares and learning curve. Guys like Ray don't grow on trees, but there out there!
AZ & other stores will make good on the faulty part (s). I have a reman steering box that is just as bad as the one I took out. The labor and failed expectations of it all is what piss's me off the most about bad NEW parts.
Had a similar issue in my old 2011 335 E92. I diagnosed it down to the (Bosch) leak detection pump, which is like a $80 part that takes about 20 min to replace with a little bit of low crawling... This was early 2020 and car prices were dropping like a rock so I was in the process of buying a 19 440 F32. Got a great deal on the 440 but dealer tried to low ball me on my trade because even though the car looked damn near perfect it had an minor accident on the Carfax report.... So I did what any responsible person would do in this situation; cleared the code, handed it it, and let it become someone else's problem.
Very nice explanation of you diagnostic procedure. After selling Snap-on Diagnostics for 25 years that was my biggest training issue, always reminding Tech to follow a consistent procedure and not make assumptions. Nicely done.