I used to run LiquiMoly 10w60 in E92 M3 with 2000-5000 mile intervals (depends on usage, but usually every 3-4 track days). Blackstone oil analysis showed very positive result with consistent viscosity, and ton of lubrication/additives left.
I did mine about two months ago. Was a great experience. Do your valve adjustment after. Make sure the splines covers are tightened and pushed back all the way before reassembly. I spent some time finding the right sweet spot. Make sure timing is spot on with BMW tool. I saw a huge difference in low /mid torque. Completely different car. Like you mentioned the instructions are well documented and easy to follow. Replace the bolts on the cams since they can back out or break.
Love the e46 m3 content I, and many other enthusiasts, use liqui moly 10w-60. Pretty much everyone on m3 forum uses either liquidations moly or castrol 10w-60. Also, 10w-60 is only required when driving your car HARD. Technically, if your car wasn't driven hard, you can use lighter oil. and by that I mean 5w-50 type oil. But who doesnt drive their m3 hard :). STICK WITH 10w-60! And change oil every 5k miles if driven hard. at most do 7500 TELL PETER TO CHECK HIS EMAIL. I sent you guys a torque spec sheet with REALOEM charts and pictures! So helpful! Even tell you what bolts to replace and when! Also, EVERYTHING Beisan makes is top notch. Call him if you have any questions. He will answer right away and explain everything! For other DIY'ers. I dont see any timing tools in this video. You can technically do it without them but why take the chance. Go buy a BMW timing took for like 100-150USD. Well worth it
Very informative video! It's always a pleasure to work with products from knowledgeable vendors that provide detailed instructions. Can't wait to see you start ripping with this M3!
We did the same thing at the same time XD My engine is just still in my car. It pains me to see another E46 M3 retiring from the streets but at least it's where it belongs, the track. You guys are going to get a lot of support on this car, even if you don't want it because people "must" help. Best of luck on the car. I'll probably be following this build.
@@speedacademy for the oil use either Castrol EWS 10 60 or the new Shell that the BMW provides for the S54 engine which is a replica of the Castrol one. Liqui Moly tends to use more oil between Oil changes. i have been an E46 M3 owner for the last 7 years I tried them all :)
Body-kitted 316-shed, with Bens customer service and quality of workmanship, he comes highly recommended from me too. Will definitely be using his services again.
YEEEEEEEEEEEES! It's super bueno and German AF. It's far superior to anything domestic. I built some walls at a BMW race shop in Portland oregon and it was their oil of choice.
Don't use Castrol products unless you can get them directly from Castrol themselves. There is a ridiculous amount of fake Castrol products. No joke. Beware
I've been rocking liquid moly for now almost 3yrs and only suggest that oil for this car, I change my oil ever 5k miles, i might be over kill, but i like to play it safe rather sorry later on
You guys addressed all the issues that will cause a check engine light possibly worse but the sprocket bolts are what do real damage if they fail. You should look into those.
@a as Everything was through the mail. They sent a new unit with a core refund once you send yours back. My local mechanic did the installation. Worked out great. Highly recommend
Amazing! Buying a mechanical special M3 seems like a doable thing now. Not as complicated to work on as I would have thought. Time to hunt for an M3 with torn chassis @ subframe and jacked up VTEC. 😀
@@theseal666 not that I'm ready now but I looked just for fun and found a couple. So they're out there. I'll have to do more research and see what the future holds. I guess it's just like the Audi I bought to flip. You just have to get in there and start wrenching. A car is a car when it's all said and done.
Liqui Moly for sure, Been running in my e46 and its real good stuff. Also dont follow bmw's silly 12k miles oil change intervals and do it every 5k miles (8000km)
Well, on modern engines BMW uses dual VANOS+Valvetronic Valvetronic is a variable lift system, so they don’t have to run throttle bodies, since valves are the throttle bodies themselves...
I also wanna tell as I own a e46 m3 if u decat the headers then get rid of the secondary vacuum pump as I heard that it leans the engine out when u cold start the engine
Always love the way you produce your content and still happy you are jumping into E46 / S54 land. Pretty soon you will be doing a S85 V10 swap! LOL oh and +1 for Liqui Moly
Would probably recommend replacing the Cam gear bolts while your in there as preventative maintenance & if u had the money u can actually get a cryo treated exhaust hub too but they’re pretty pricey !
Run either the Liqui Moly Gt1 10w60 or the Castrol EWS 10w60 also throw in Liqui Moly Mos2 treatment. There are a few reviews of the Mos2 which indicate that it will dramatically reduce bearing wear. The varnish is from BMW's bullshit oil change intervals. The Castrol is great to approx 7500kms.
I’ve done that twice... starting to know it by heart. But PLEASE do head gasket when you are in there... it is a service item on these engines. They start to leak compression between the cylinders.. I noticed you had the shim-kit on the bench so take the opportunity to do that as well when you are in there...
You guys stated you needed specialized tools but haven’t left a tools guide needed for the job. Just a list of your favorite tools. Could you guys please add the list of tools required.
About the engine oil choice; it's a bit of a long read but the BMW S engine bearing failures are studied: 540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ If you go with the factory bearing clearances then 5W30 Amsoil is hands down the best. If you whent with a larger clearance maybe 0-40W mobile european or the stock 10w60 castrol. However the problem with that is they no longer work with the ///M division and changed the formula so the next closest is think is probably liqui moly or the high end shell stuff they use in Ferrari.
please list the "special tools" and links needed to complete this DIY. @ 93K miles, my E46 M3 still has mucho top end power so not needing to do a VANOS re-build...yet
Unfortunately Jose, there's seldom a cheap M3. Even if you find one that's cheap to buy, you'll get hit with expensive bills to do the stuff that made it cheap in the first place. Good luck in getting one though, as they're awesome cars.
Body-kitted 316-shed the parts & specialty tools alone I’d say are 5-600bucks all in ,labor 1000. If you don’t pull the engine. If you need to do so it’s gonna be a bitch
Cerma Oil can do special Blends and is a NO Carbon Self Cleaning OIL ! Now while you may think smaller holes in the Disk will help ,it is much better to upgrade to a Cryo over size Tap and not necessary to replace Disk ! Now i am sure the Splines are the culprit ,They get Sloppy and Bind the Hub causing the Tabs to Crack ! Do yourself a Favor Fix it Right the First time and Bullet Proof IT !
Dudes The Best oil on this Planet is Cerma ! They will custom blend any Vis ! I am using this in my M3 06 90K ! It is self Cleaning and No Carbon ! Check it out you will also save $$$ on fuel with the gas add builds 8 points Octane ! I save 750 per Year Too Cool !
You could've also gone with a VANOS delete kit seeing as the car will mostly be used on track 🙂 There is really no need for a VANOS in a drift car, specially an inline 6 where you will constantly be in the high RPMs where it's off anyways, it's just another potential reliability issue in my eyes 🙂 I mean, it's obviously miles better to do a refresh on it than leave it as it is, I'm just saying that there was also the other, more race oriented, option 😃 As for the oil, not sure for S54, but I use Mobil1 Super3000-X1 5W-40 in my S50B32 with solid results... The oil was at the same level after two drift events, lots of street driving (full throttle as often as possible) and a few burnouts and donuts at meets... It's also got the 10W-60 recommended if I'm not wrong, but I decided to go with a less thick option #becausedriftcar 😂😂 Can't wait to see the Cabrio finally going sideways 😎
S50b32 is better suited to that oil, S54 is not. And it would fall flat on its face if you started gripping up mid drift and didn't have Vanos. Plus it needs some extensive timing set up on the dyno to get a Vanos delete to work right - it's only worth it if you have enough cam duration or lift to make Vanos impossible
@@hackengineering401 I guessed that was the case, that's why I said I didn't really know about the S54 🙂 I was, believe it or not, even advised by some to go to 0W-30, but I felt like that would be pushing it too far 😬 Honestly, I don't think mine ever fell under 3.5k rpm drifting, I mean, it was either in 5-7k area or gripped up 😂😂 Mine never showed any signs of bad VANOS (except a bit of ticking when the oil gets very hot, but that's because of the oil), yet it was useless in lower rpms for drifting 🙂 Even if it grips up, your best bet would be a clutch kick to get it back to it's power band, it revs so quickly when it has no load that you can always get back up the rpms quickly 😁 As for the mods required, it's the matter of reliability for me, I'm trying to make my cars as reliable as possible, even if it means making some compromises 🙂 I was actually considering deleting VANOS on mine, but seeing I was often driving it on the streets (not daily though), and I'd sell it somewhat soon, I gave up on that idea 🙂 Still haven't even put up an ad to sell it, but stopped driving it once I bought its replacement 😁
that baked on oil is terrible, I don't know much about these engines, but I can go take apart a honda engine out of an accord with 450,000km and oil changes every 10k and it's looks nothing like that. Is that a bmw thing? or is that just pure neglect? and most likely the failure point of this engine? The poor maintenance?
All wrong , you needed to get the exhaust cam hub from Dr Vanos and the inlet cam spline gear, all the rubber crap you got aint gonna fix any noise issues
I thought everything was fine with mine. Only had a small tik tik sound at part throttle sometimes. After inspection i had a failed headgasket which lead to engine block damage. Also, one of the tabs on the exhaust hub had broken off. I was lucky to get to it in time.
My 550i radiator leaking. replacing every components of the cooling system. trouble-free for the next 5 years.so far M3 dodged the bullet especially with 200k miles.it's going to leak, just when?
Why BMW overcomplicated the VANOS system.... The complexity for what it does is ridiculous. Why separate oil pump? That makes no sense. Look how Japanese implement their Variable Valve Timing system and they are brilliantly simple and very reliable. VANOS is not the same thing as VTEC. VTEC switches cam profiles while a VANOS only changes timing. There are millions Toyotas on the road with VVTi and they do not have issues like BMW with VANOS. Even the space the Toyota VVTi system occupies is much smaller (the whole system bar solenoid sits on the sprocket).
if you work on German cars that seems to be quite a recurring thing where they overengineer things for the sake of it at the expense of reliability and simplicity
The amount of full time adjustment on this particular VANOS is of the hook. It is a high-performing engine with over 100bhp specific output in -99. I am planning to do some experimenting with the Atkinson-cycle in my S54. The VANOS in more mundane BMW’s is much simpler.
@@theseal666 the 100Hp per 1L is not a huge achievement. In fact you don't need VANOS to get there. VANOS does not help with peak power, it helps with low RPM torque. Regarding of 100Hp/L in N/A, Plenty of Japanese engine had that in much cheaper format as well (Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Mitsubishi, etc all had 100Hp/L production cars, most of them were budget cars as well, none of that M business). Ignoring VTEC variants the 20V 4AGE Had 100Hp/L in 1991. BEAMS 3SGTE had that as well in 1997 (the VVTi has "only" 45 degrees or so of range). Then we have SR16VE (175Hp/1.6L 1997-) and SR20VE (207Hp/2.0L 2001-). Speaking of VANOS range. My EJ207 GRB STI does 55 degrees adjustment on much simpler and more reliable system, yes VANOS gets up to 60 degrees, but for EJ207 there is no need to get there, if Subaru needed to get there they would probably still achieve it with AVCS.
the timing adjustment range with vanos is much broader than vtec or vvti. Definitely room for improvement with poor factory seals and tolerances however if you ever drive a tuned BMW with vanos, its impressive how broad the torque curve is while maximizing high end power in a relatively small engine displacement.
The E46 M3 is an amazing car to drive and not so bad if you know how to do some wrenching. I am owning a high mileage E46 M3 and I am loving it.. They do need some love for them to last but no biggie...
You don't say wayriable when you mean variable, so why would you say WAYNOS when you mean VANOS? PS soundtrack is insanely loud compared to the dialogue, like usual.
I used to run LiquiMoly 10w60 in E92 M3 with 2000-5000 mile intervals (depends on usage, but usually every 3-4 track days). Blackstone oil analysis showed very positive result with consistent viscosity, and ton of lubrication/additives left.
Liqui moly 10-60 race tech! Best oil imo
As an E46 M3 owner, I absolutely love these videos!
Glad you're liking them.
So much E46 M3 content!! MY BODY IS READY
I did mine about two months ago. Was a great experience. Do your valve adjustment after. Make sure the splines covers are tightened and pushed back all the way before reassembly. I spent some time finding the right sweet spot. Make sure timing is spot on with BMW tool. I saw a huge difference in low /mid torque. Completely different car. Like you mentioned the instructions are well documented and easy to follow. Replace the bolts on the cams since they can back out or break.
Yes, we just did all that in the upcoming video!
You guys just pushed me to refresh my vanos system before pulleys, headers, and wheels. Bastards...
That's the smart thing to do! :)
Love the e46 m3 content
I, and many other enthusiasts, use liqui moly 10w-60. Pretty much everyone on m3 forum uses either liquidations moly or castrol 10w-60. Also, 10w-60 is only required when driving your car HARD. Technically, if your car wasn't driven hard, you can use lighter oil. and by that I mean 5w-50 type oil. But who doesnt drive their m3 hard :). STICK WITH 10w-60! And change oil every 5k miles if driven hard. at most do 7500
TELL PETER TO CHECK HIS EMAIL. I sent you guys a torque spec sheet with REALOEM charts and pictures! So helpful! Even tell you what bolts to replace and when!
Also, EVERYTHING Beisan makes is top notch. Call him if you have any questions. He will answer right away and explain everything!
For other DIY'ers. I dont see any timing tools in this video. You can technically do it without them but why take the chance. Go buy a BMW timing took for like 100-150USD. Well worth it
VANOS just kicked in yo!
Very informative video! It's always a pleasure to work with products from knowledgeable vendors that provide detailed instructions. Can't wait to see you start ripping with this M3!
Thanks!
Finally someone is showcasing work on the S54. Rebuilt my vanos at 70K with the Beisan kit. 126k going strong. Bump for liquimoly GT1 10w60
Great to hear, another 100K for us haha!
We did the same thing at the same time XD My engine is just still in my car. It pains me to see another E46 M3 retiring from the streets but at least it's where it belongs, the track. You guys are going to get a lot of support on this car, even if you don't want it because people "must" help. Best of luck on the car. I'll probably be following this build.
great stuff don't forget the valve adjustment when you are done with the rest
Next episode :)
@@speedacademy for the oil use either Castrol EWS 10 60 or the new Shell that the BMW provides for the S54 engine which is a replica of the Castrol one. Liqui Moly tends to use more oil between Oil changes. i have been an E46 M3 owner for the last 7 years I tried them all :)
Just like the good old "technical" Modified days. Good job guys.
Liking the e46 M3 rebuild vids guys.
Ben @ Hack Engineering rebuilt my vanos so this is of interest to me 👍
Can't fault Ben @ Hack Engineering. Is becoming my 'go to' guy when it comes to parts for my M3's. Cannot rate highly enough.
Body-kitted 316-shed, with Bens customer service and quality of workmanship, he comes highly recommended from me too. Will definitely be using his services again.
Replaced the VANOs on my 2000 328i. Was cheap and surprisingly easy. I feel like I overhyped the job. Just take your time and it's easy.
guys for the oil I suggest Liqui Moly, is a great product!!
YEEEEEEEEEEEES! It's super bueno and German AF.
It's far superior to anything domestic.
I built some walls at a BMW race shop in Portland oregon and it was their oil of choice.
yes i was using pentosin before on my E92 and when i switched to liqui moly i also noticed that my car stopped burning oil
Don't use Castrol products unless you can get them directly from Castrol themselves. There is a ridiculous amount of fake Castrol products. No joke. Beware
I've been rocking liquid moly for now almost 3yrs and only suggest that oil for this car, I change my oil ever 5k miles, i might be over kill, but i like to play it safe rather sorry later on
I've owned E46 M3 for 10 years. Liquimoly is my choice every 7500 miles
You guys addressed all the issues that will cause a check engine light possibly worse but the sprocket bolts are what do real damage if they fail. You should look into those.
Watch the next episode :)
Alloy wheel cleaning acid cleans the varnish off the inside of the engine nicely.
Thanks! Good tip.
Just recently changed my Vanos unit on my E46 M3. Used Dr. Vanos. So far so good
@a as Everything was through the mail. They sent a new unit with a core refund once you send yours back. My local mechanic did the installation. Worked out great. Highly recommend
I am a big Motul fan! They offer also 10W60. And there 300V line is really good. If you check the oil specs, like flashpoints.
Thanks for these videos, you are making me more brave every episode. I may tackle these on my S54 come summertime.
It's intimidating but go for it, not that hard when you get to it.
Another while you're in there maintenance is to check valve clearances. Also check out buildjournal. They are a great resource too.
I’ve been using LiquiMoly for the last 10 years. The best choice in my opinion. Used in my E60 M5 and E46 M3
Oooh ya got a slider, nice hyper-lapse!
Actually maybe not a slider but a pan and scan filming with 4k? Either way like the shots.
Its a slider with some zoom :)
Amazing!
Buying a mechanical special M3 seems like a doable thing now.
Not as complicated to work on as I would have thought.
Time to hunt for an M3 with torn chassis @ subframe and jacked up VTEC.
😀
The Toothless Vegan
Get them while they are cheep.
Fix subframe-cracks, vanos and bottom end bearings and you are done!
@@theseal666 not that I'm ready now but I looked just for fun and found a couple. So they're out there. I'll have to do more research and see what the future holds. I guess it's just like the Audi I bought to flip. You just have to get in there and start wrenching. A car is a car when it's all said and done.
The music is so much louder than the talking :(
Yes that's an automatic unsubscribe for me.
I didn’t get a notification for this upload glad I jumped on for breakfast ready to see this thing rip great job as always 🤙
Very cool video. Its cool that u guys just dive in and git r dun. Keep up the good work!! 👍
We're trying!
@@speedacademy Are u guys still selling hardparts online? I inquired about some parts about a month ago and got no response....
@@JDM_Jeffro we are, weird that you didnt get a reply. Hit me up peter@speed.academy and Ill see what I can do.
Liqui Moly for sure, Been running in my e46 and its real good stuff. Also dont follow bmw's silly 12k miles oil change intervals and do it every 5k miles (8000km)
Crazy never had to open my engine to check VTEC @245k miles.
nothingiswhatitseems
More Vanos for me!!!
Rubber and seals are an E46 Achilles heal. that and that damn plastic coolant expansion that likes to explode in taco bell drive thrus.
VANOS changes cam timing, VTEC changes cam profile. In theory, you could do both!
As far as i know Honda does on their i-VTEC engines
Ähm NOPE i-VTEC*
Well, on modern engines BMW uses dual VANOS+Valvetronic
Valvetronic is a variable lift system, so they don’t have to run throttle bodies, since valves are the throttle bodies themselves...
I also wanna tell as I own a e46 m3 if u decat the headers then get rid of the secondary vacuum pump as I heard that it leans the engine out when u cold start the engine
Also what u should have done with the solenoid valve put a magnet on the pins to open up the valves and then u can clean inside there much better
Rippin 'anos
My fav comment so far
I'm ready to see some more E46 Vids
What's going on with that Touareg TDI? 👀
Wait a few weeks and the answer will surely come :)
Get liquimolly 10w-60 👍👍
Personally, I've switched to Motul for my S52, so I'd recommend that, but Liqui Moly is a great option too
Good working man
Always love the way you produce your content and still happy you are jumping into E46 / S54 land. Pretty soon you will be doing a S85 V10 swap! LOL oh and +1 for Liqui Moly
Haha, M5s are so cheap I've been tempted many times.
Would probably recommend replacing the Cam gear bolts while your in there as preventative maintenance & if u had the money u can actually get a cryo treated exhaust hub too but they’re pretty pricey !
Next episode :)
10w60 in a drift car seems reasonable. A lot of prolonged high revs and associated heat.
that motor is very similar to the Opel 24V motor from the 1990's
Is that a supra engine? @speedacadmey
I see what you did there.
No that’s your moms engine
5:44 wrong! Vanos works on lower rev range up to about 3500rpm
I was wondering if somebody else noticed that too. By the state of the comment section, no.
Nice, very informative...
Redline oil because ester base. I also used motul because it is good value. If that was my motor it would be redline 15-50.
Hey Peter.... Barn door is open at 10 min mark. :)
Run either the Liqui Moly Gt1 10w60 or the Castrol EWS 10w60 also throw in Liqui Moly Mos2 treatment. There are a few reviews of the Mos2 which indicate that it will dramatically reduce bearing wear.
The varnish is from BMW's bullshit oil change intervals. The Castrol is great to approx 7500kms.
I’ve done that twice... starting to know it by heart.
But PLEASE do head gasket when you are in there... it is a service item on these engines. They start to leak compression between the cylinders..
I noticed you had the shim-kit on the bench so take the opportunity to do that as well when you are in there...
That Hack Engineering site has some cool shit.
Thank you sir!
Ben Cork Ben Koflach at Hack Engineering is a great guy to deal with! 100% trust
Hey, I'm new to this series and noticed that this episode isn't included in your playlist, so maybe you can add this video to your playlist?
Please fix your music volume. It always seems to be a lot louder than you guys talking.
You guys stated you needed specialized tools but haven’t left a tools guide needed for the job. Just a list of your favorite tools. Could you guys please add the list of tools required.
Try LIQUI MOLY Synthoil High Tech 5W-50 .
Those German cars in the garage are multiplying :D
Shell is official manufacturer of the genuine BMW 10w-60 oil.
When my e34’s vanos goes out I’m just gonna LS swap it, ain’t nobody got time for that.
ah...the famous Canadian vanoss...XD
You should swap the drivetrains between the two drift car build-off's (for shits and giggles?)
Bahaha that would be very cool but way to ridiculous.
About the engine oil choice; it's a bit of a long read but the BMW S engine bearing failures are studied: 540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ If you go with the factory bearing clearances then 5W30 Amsoil is hands down the best. If you whent with a larger clearance maybe 0-40W mobile european or the stock 10w60 castrol. However the problem with that is they no longer work with the ///M division and changed the formula so the next closest is think is probably liqui moly or the high end shell stuff they use in Ferrari.
please list the "special tools" and links needed to complete this DIY. @ 93K miles, my E46 M3 still has mucho top end power so not needing to do a VANOS re-build...yet
Everything is listed in great detail on the Beisan site.
Rippin' German 'TEC
Nice!!
Instead of Rippin' Tec will you be Rippin' ANOS?
hahaha rippin anus
Rippin mad anos at tmp
10:00 I think your zipper is open :)
Don't tell them. I like it when it's open.
yes liqui moly or bardahl
So another words dont get a car with this motor haha just kidding great info and video!!
Just make sure to buy it cheap haha
@@speedacademy haha yea that's another way to think of it!!
Where are the cheap m3's at? I want one now.
Unfortunately Jose, there's seldom a cheap M3. Even if you find one that's cheap to buy, you'll get hit with expensive bills to do the stuff that made it cheap in the first place. Good luck in getting one though, as they're awesome cars.
Body-kitted 316-shed the parts & specialty tools alone I’d say are 5-600bucks all in ,labor 1000. If you don’t pull the engine. If you need to do so it’s gonna be a bitch
Well the thanos should work, he killed half the avengers. Come on now!
LAM! Get back to work!
Earnest Bunbury 🤥
We see what you did there :)
Cerma Oil can do special Blends and is a NO Carbon Self Cleaning OIL ! Now while you may think smaller holes in the Disk will help ,it is much better to upgrade to a Cryo over size Tap and not necessary to replace Disk ! Now i am sure the Splines are the culprit ,They get Sloppy and Bind the Hub causing the Tabs to Crack ! Do yourself a Favor Fix it Right the First time and Bullet Proof IT !
Open flys and sweat pants. What the hell goes on during Canadian winters?!
Madness, PURE madness. Gotta be something in the water eh.
Dudes The Best oil on this Planet is Cerma ! They will custom blend any Vis ! I am using this in my M3 06 90K ! It is self Cleaning and No Carbon ! Check it out you will also save $$$ on fuel with the gas add builds 8 points Octane ! I save 750 per Year Too Cool !
You could've also gone with a VANOS delete kit seeing as the car will mostly be used on track 🙂 There is really no need for a VANOS in a drift car, specially an inline 6 where you will constantly be in the high RPMs where it's off anyways, it's just another potential reliability issue in my eyes 🙂 I mean, it's obviously miles better to do a refresh on it than leave it as it is, I'm just saying that there was also the other, more race oriented, option 😃
As for the oil, not sure for S54, but I use Mobil1 Super3000-X1 5W-40 in my S50B32 with solid results... The oil was at the same level after two drift events, lots of street driving (full throttle as often as possible) and a few burnouts and donuts at meets... It's also got the 10W-60 recommended if I'm not wrong, but I decided to go with a less thick option #becausedriftcar 😂😂
Can't wait to see the Cabrio finally going sideways 😎
S50b32 is better suited to that oil, S54 is not. And it would fall flat on its face if you started gripping up mid drift and didn't have Vanos. Plus it needs some extensive timing set up on the dyno to get a Vanos delete to work right - it's only worth it if you have enough cam duration or lift to make Vanos impossible
@@hackengineering401 I guessed that was the case, that's why I said I didn't really know about the S54 🙂 I was, believe it or not, even advised by some to go to 0W-30, but I felt like that would be pushing it too far 😬
Honestly, I don't think mine ever fell under 3.5k rpm drifting, I mean, it was either in 5-7k area or gripped up 😂😂 Mine never showed any signs of bad VANOS (except a bit of ticking when the oil gets very hot, but that's because of the oil), yet it was useless in lower rpms for drifting 🙂 Even if it grips up, your best bet would be a clutch kick to get it back to it's power band, it revs so quickly when it has no load that you can always get back up the rpms quickly 😁
As for the mods required, it's the matter of reliability for me, I'm trying to make my cars as reliable as possible, even if it means making some compromises 🙂 I was actually considering deleting VANOS on mine, but seeing I was often driving it on the streets (not daily though), and I'd sell it somewhat soon, I gave up on that idea 🙂 Still haven't even put up an ad to sell it, but stopped driving it once I bought its replacement 😁
Woooh
LIQUI MOLY
Wow you guys are seriously making up for the missing footage from the previous video with some killer camera work in the time lapse.
VANOS isn't VTEC. VANOS is VTC. But it is broken from birth.
that baked on oil is terrible, I don't know much about these engines, but I can go take apart a honda engine out of an accord with 450,000km and oil changes every 10k and it's looks nothing like that. Is that a bmw thing? or is that just pure neglect? and most likely the failure point of this engine? The poor maintenance?
It's a Castrol 10w60 thing. Stains everything brown and turns to gunk if it's left more than about 8k between changes. Even then it isn't the nicest
What he said....
I am running the Motul LeMans 20w60 in mine and it gets cleaner.
Vaènos
VANOS is NOT VTEC, maybe VALVETRONIC ;)
It's not "Vane-Os". It's "Van-Os". Like a miniVan. Vanos.
All wrong , you needed to get the exhaust cam hub from Dr Vanos and the inlet cam spline gear, all the rubber crap you got aint gonna fix any noise issues
It's not "Beesans". Think "Byesans".
Huge mistake by not doing the head gasket I would replace every hose. seals.Save time.money and headache.
why? if its not leaking theres no point in changing it. S54's dont have headgasket issues.
@tuurbow oh yes they do! Often blow between cylinders where they're so thin
I thought everything was fine with mine. Only had a small tik tik sound at part throttle sometimes.
After inspection i had a failed headgasket which lead to engine block damage. Also, one of the tabs on the exhaust hub had broken off.
I was lucky to get to it in time.
My 550i radiator leaking. replacing every components of the cooling system. trouble-free for the next 5 years.so far M3 dodged the bullet especially with 200k miles.it's going to leak, just when?
tuurbow, it is a wear-item... super tight between bores and they usually give up around 150 000 km.
I've rebuilt a bunch of vanos units, and those are the worst orings I have ever seen. You were definitely losing power.
Thank you, that reassures us this job was needed.
I have no clue as to why people like casterol so much, its a shit oil, Pennzoil is a MUCH better option
Why BMW overcomplicated the VANOS system.... The complexity for what it does is ridiculous. Why separate oil pump? That makes no sense. Look how Japanese implement their Variable Valve Timing system and they are brilliantly simple and very reliable. VANOS is not the same thing as VTEC. VTEC switches cam profiles while a VANOS only changes timing. There are millions Toyotas on the road with VVTi and they do not have issues like BMW with VANOS. Even the space the Toyota VVTi system occupies is much smaller (the whole system bar solenoid sits on the sprocket).
I was going to write a very similar comment 😀. Zee Germans do enjoy overcomplicating things.
if you work on German cars that seems to be quite a recurring thing where they overengineer things for the sake of it at the expense of reliability and simplicity
The amount of full time adjustment on this particular VANOS is of the hook. It is a high-performing engine with over 100bhp specific output in -99.
I am planning to do some experimenting with the Atkinson-cycle in my S54.
The VANOS in more mundane BMW’s is much simpler.
@@theseal666 the 100Hp per 1L is not a huge achievement. In fact you don't need VANOS to get there. VANOS does not help with peak power, it helps with low RPM torque.
Regarding of 100Hp/L in N/A, Plenty of Japanese engine had that in much cheaper format as well (Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Mitsubishi, etc all had 100Hp/L production cars, most of them were budget cars as well, none of that M business). Ignoring VTEC variants the 20V 4AGE Had 100Hp/L in 1991. BEAMS 3SGTE had that as well in 1997 (the VVTi has "only" 45 degrees or so of range). Then we have SR16VE (175Hp/1.6L 1997-) and SR20VE (207Hp/2.0L 2001-).
Speaking of VANOS range. My EJ207 GRB STI does 55 degrees adjustment on much simpler and more reliable system, yes VANOS gets up to 60 degrees, but for EJ207 there is no need to get there, if Subaru needed to get there they would probably still achieve it with AVCS.
the timing adjustment range with vanos is much broader than vtec or vvti. Definitely room for improvement with poor factory seals and tolerances however if you ever drive a tuned BMW with vanos, its impressive how broad the torque curve is while maximizing high end power in a relatively small engine displacement.
The music is horrible. So much louder than the talking. Super annoying.
this is why i dont care for bmw, so many "known" issues lol.
If you can afford them new than these are all maintenace items. If you buy a used one for 10k then you fked up and good luck.
yeah thats what i notice, these aren't meant for life after payments and leases.
The E46 M3 is an amazing car to drive and not so bad if you know how to do some wrenching. I am owning a high mileage E46 M3 and I am loving it..
They do need some love for them to last but no biggie...
You don't say wayriable when you mean variable, so why would you say WAYNOS when you mean VANOS? PS soundtrack is insanely loud compared to the dialogue, like usual.
Came here to see mistakes being made