Sir I am very grateful to you and I have learnt a lot from you Sir please make a video on how to change the compressor of VRF machine and how to flash it Thank you
Thank you so much for your kind words! I am so glad to hear that I have helped you learn! I will make a note of it and try to do my best to make a video. I have just been so busy teaching! And thank you for watching!
Thank you so much! I need to get some more videos on here I just have not had time. But I hope I can do this for you soon! And thank you for telling me you are in Bangladesh!
Wow! I didn't realize that it went up to 18:52! From what I can tell the video yes it is supposed to end at 11:40. I don't know how I missed that extra length of it. And no one had mentioned this before!? Thank you for pointing it out if I get a chance I will see if I can cut the rest of the blank screen off. Thank you!!!!!
But how do you figure out if it’s a compressor burn out because of the LRA or the windings in the compressor have shorted if both escenarios will give you a compressor that it shorted to ground. How do you figure if it’s a burnout or a short?
Sometimes that is a hard thing to figure out. you have to do a lot of research to completely figure that out and unfortunately most techs will not. One thing you should do is to do an acid test. If acid destroy the windings the acid test will come back positive. It should not come back positive if it was LRA that burned up the compressor. Another thing you would do if it is a semi hermetic compressor, you could take the oil pump off and try to rotate the crankshaft. If it does not rotate then the compressor is locked up and you drew LRA and that is why the motor burned up. If it is not a semi hermetic compressor, you would still need to do an acid test kit and after the compressor is running and it is properly charged then check the superheat. A TXV is going to maintain constant superheat. If the system uses a TXV and the TXV is faulty then the superheat might be low and it would flood the compressor causing it to lock up. Liquid refrigerant coming back to the compressor will lock the compressor up, so this is what you would be looking for if it is a hermetic compressor. I hope this makes sense. But it does take some research to figure out what caused the compressor to be bad. When I teach a compressors class that is the most important thing I tell them that they have to do once they have replaced the compressor. "To find out the reason for the failure". If you don't find out the reason for the failure it will happen again! thank you for watching and thank you for the question! I hope this explained it.
First question that you need to ask is what made his compressor fail? If it failed because of acid in the system, then there is no need. It failed because of a leak that has caused the compressor to overheat then there is no need. if it failed a floodback, you need to find out why you had floodback. Is it that the TXV has failed or is that someone adjusted it. Unfortunately, if it is one of these, you will not know until after you replaced the compressor. One of the things in class is when you replace a compressor you must find the reason for the failure! There is no yes or no answer to your question. This is about the best I can do. Good luck and thank you for watching!
Hello. I have a pin hole on the compressor terminal I never saw that before. Can a burn out cause that. I don’t smell anything but the refrigerant left the system when I looked at it.
Typically what I see is the terminals that blow out. I don't think I have seen a hole where there is an actual leak at the terminal. Typically when you have a loose connection at the terminal heating and cooling will cause the terminals to blow out. But once that happens the entire charge is lost. I guess you are lucky that it is just a small leak and you have time to get a new compressor. I don't think your situation can be fixed. A burnout will typically burn the compressor out, meaning the windings will be destroyed and you will end up with either a grounded compressor or shorted windings. Thank you for your comment.
Thanks for the information and same time I have a question. If we were to replace a whole compressor with the one that burnt out, do we need to know the reason for the burn out. I understand we need to flush the whole system for acid but now a new compressor replaces the old one. I would try to find the reason only if I have to replace the motor in the compressor or the bearings but if I am completely replacing the whole compressor then is there any need to know the reason for burnout ? Thanks
You should always try to find the reason for the failure. But because of what you are commenting on here, are you replacing an open compressor? Because typically when you replace the compressor, you are already replacing the motor that runs the compressor. On an open compressor, the motor is not in contact with the refrigerant. There is acid in the system. The acid will travel with oil and affect Motor. If the reason you are replacing, the compressor is because of broken parts inside of the compressor, it could be that you have floodback. You're getting liquid back to the compressor in which case if you do not find out the reason for the failure, the new compressor is going to fail really soon. So yes, you should always find out the reason for the failure and if you have acid in the system, you need to neutralize the acid. Flushing the system, or I should say the lines with a cleaning agent and nitrogen might not be enough. You need to put some acid away or some kind of neutralizer hope this answers your question. I hope you find out why the compressors keep failing good luck and thank you for watching!
Thank you for the question. if the motor in the compressor has a burnout it is very difficult to fix. The motor needs to be rewound and that may be very hard to do. the compressor may need to be replace. That is one of the reasons people like open compressors, because the motor is easy to replace. I hope this answers your question
What would happen if one of the two circuit breakers at the electrical panel providing 220 volts to the compressor failed? Would it eventually cause burnout as described in this video?
If only one circuit breaker fails it would be like deenergizing the contactor that only has a single pole. In other words, no, it would not cause the compressor to fail. The electricity would go into the compressor, but it would not do any harm. Typically when you have a 220 V power supply, the circuit breakers are mechanically connected so if one trips both will trip at the same time. I hope this answers your question and thank you for watching!
@@AirConAcademy Thank you for the response. In my situation the bad circuit breaker didnt trip the good one so the AC system was running but not putting out cold air. I discovered the bad breaker at night when I could see it arcing behind the electrical panel. When I pulled it dirt and mechanical parts fell out of it. I think the dirt probably caused it to arc internally and destroyed its function. After replacement the AC functioned normally. I now have a rental property with a burnt out compressor and was just curious if a similar bad circuit breaker could eventually cause a failure. Thank you for letting me know.
@@sizzelot wow! If I understand you correctly, your circuit breaker fell apart in the box or as you were pulling it out. That is bad. What was happening to your unit? Is that with that bad circuit breaker you are not sending the total voltage needed to the air conditioning unit. Because of that you put a load on the compressor and the fans so they probably overheated and quit working. It is a good thing you found it when you did. That is a very rare occurrence so I don't believe that is the same thing that happened in your rental property. If you have not replaced the unit in your rental property. You should be able to get someone to replace the compressor only!!!. It would be very important for you to make sure that they flush the lines, and install a liquid line filter dryer that is what they call HH. In other words, it would be an HH liquid line filter dryer. You can also talk them into putting a suction Line HH filter dryer to help clean the system. The HH driers are designed to trap the acid so if your compressor went bad in the rental property you could have acid in the system. This will help trap it and clean it up. I hope this information helps you. If you have any other questions please let me know. I also have some videos online that talk about the filter, dryers and bad compressors. Good luck!
Hi, Why they but a burn out filter in the suction line after the compressor failed, isnt a filter-dryer more important, Becauce all damage stuff from the compressor go in to old filter dryer.
Yousaf Abbas Very good question! A lot of times a dryer is just put in and the technician does not ask these good questions. A burn out filter in the suction is basically the same as a suction line filter dryer. I am not sure what you have seen out in the field, but the burn out filter dryer will absorb whatever acid may be in the system. A suction line filter dryer Will only absorb the moisture that is in the system. A burn out dryer or like a lot of people call it, HH dryer. It will also absorb the hydrochloric hydrofluoric acid that is created in the system with a burn out or when moisture is introduced into the system. After a burn out or preferably anytime a compressor is being replaced the technician should perform an acid test. If the test shows there is acid in the system then the burn out filter dryer, or an HH dryer should be put in the system to clean it out. A few days after the system has been running the technician should perform another acid test. If the acid test comes back positive then the burn out filter dryer should be replaced again. Testing and replacing the burn out filter dryer should be done again and again until the acid test shows there is no more acid in the system. I hope this explains what you were asking. Thank you for your question. And please, keep asking and keep learning!
Aircon Academy thank you, what I still not understand, when this hydrochloric comes in the system, is that when compressor burn out? And how this come after the compressor failed in the hole system?
@@aycabbas It happens because the oil breaks down as you have a burn out. Also when technicians do not purge the hoses and do not get the air and moisture out of the hoses. Then the acid is formed. Some times the hoses are already contaminated from when they were used in a contaminated system, so now the contamination from the contaminated system is put in to the clean system and it contaminates it then the compressor fails.
Thanks sir, I do have a question, if my compressor is bad and I know it's bad and burnt up, it smells burnt, do I have to replace my entire system, ie, outside unit, inside furnace, air handler, does this require me to replace my entire unit, say 6,500 dollars,,,or CAN the system be flushed out and replace just compressor? Thanks
Most likely a contractor will suggest replacing the entire system. But if you are doing the work, or you have someone that is willing to do the work, you. After you replace the compressor, you can flush the liquid line and the suction line with a cleaning agent. Not just nitrogen! Nitrogen will not clean the lines! Then, if you have had a burn out like you mentioned, you need to install. an HH liquid line and an HH suction line filter dryer. These type of dryers will trap the acid that is in the system. But you will have to replace them a few times. You should do an acid test and replace the dryers until the system is clean. When it is time to replace the dryers, you should not recover the refrigerant. But do a pump down so that it saves you time and money. In case you do not know when you pump down your storing the refrigerant in the condenser. This will keep you from having to pay so much money for a brand new system! I hope this helps! Good luck and thank you for watching. !!!
Thanks for your reply and for your detailed feedback regarding my system, I'm very handy and can work on and fix almost anything, I have electrical experience, but HVAC is not my wheel house, and I don't have any equipment, so I guess I'll go with AC window units. Question,, in the winter, can I still use my heat from my furnace? Thanks so much for your help....
@@davidlaws1438 yes! In the winter time, you can still use the furnace and it will not be a problem. I suppose window units will work. I don't know how big your house is but I know that there's a company called Mr. cool. They make. Mini splits that are very simple to install. One thing I forgot to mention before is if you work on any of this, you need your CFC certification! If you do not have that you could get in trouble doing air-conditioning work. But! If you look into Mr. cool, all you are doing is connecting making connections and you don't need to deal any refrigerant so you would not need your CFC certification. I have install these and they're very easy to install. They come with all of the directions and how to do it. You will just have to drill a hole through your wall to run the refrigerant lines out. But these lines are very easy to handle! If you are interested in getting your CFC certification, I can help you with that. But definitely look at Mr. cool and you can install the mini split yourself! Good luck and I hope. You can stay cool this summer!
On older cars they were just on and to regulate the temperature they would regulate the amount of hot water or coolant to the heater core. On new cars because of technology they adjust the water going to the heater core automatically so you can set the temperature and the controls control it sensing the cabin or return air temperature automatically. But that is only in some cars not all. I do not know how they do it in all cars.
@@AirConAcademy thank you for the reply sir.....can you make a video sir some trouble shooting of cars ac sys. ex.freezing evaporator,or txv what are most causes for the problem....and some trouble shooting on what if high side plug,what would be the effect,or on the manifold gauge some trouble bouncing gauge pointers both.....
@@AirConAcademy and if ok sir...also how to properly recover freon not using machine,vacuum using vacuum motor,and recharge sys.using only manifold gauge...thank you sir godbless
@@AirConAcademy thank you so much sir I also wondering why everybody uploaded car ac system trouble shooting then fixing without showing how to add oil on the system....
Very good question!!!!! unfortunately in schools they only teach ohms law in resistive loads!!! motors are inductive loads and they act differently. Ohms law does NOT work on inductive loads or in other words motors. I guess I should do a video talking about this!!! thank you and good question.
I think it's because of the power needed by the motor to counter the starting torque from complete rest to its rated speed. The Electrical power P=IV, which when converted to Mechanical power = 2pieTN, relates the power directly proportional to the Torque (T) and Speed (N). The Current (I) is therefore directly proportional also to the Torque which is very high from rest to motion then lowers down as the motor speed gains its momentum or inertia.
Ronald Barrion Yes, it has to overcome that the rotor is standing still so it does need all that power. the magnetic field builds up and the counter electromotive force is what makes the amperage drop that down after it has started up. There is a lot to all of this and how our motors work. Resistive loads like a heater are very different than how an inductive load like the motors operate. It is so interesting to study the differences between the two.
Thanks Mr. Herrera for this lesson. Quick question Sir, does the car rpm have any impact on the ac system when charging r134a freon? If so, what should be the maximum rpm to the compressor proper speed while charging the system? Because while charging the car Ac today, the low side pressure kept building up to 40-50 psi and the high side was at 150 psi. but when I raised the rpm, the gauge will drop to 15 psi on low side and about 50-60 psi on high side. but due to fear of burning the compressor coil or stock which happened to me few days ago by adding more refrigerants, I assumed that the problem was the blockage in the TXV. So I discontinued the work in order to avoid any serious damage and I lost that cash and wasted my materials. Please help me sir. Thanks.
If you had to look for a blockage and you had to start with an empty system you should charge by weight. The car should tell you how much refrigerant should be in the system so you could get the proper charge. That is the best way to charge a system. When I have charged a car I usually do it by myself so I am not sure what the RPM are. I add some liquid and then some gas to make sure I do not flood the compressor. I usually keep the saturation temperature on the low side just above 32 degrees F. with the engine revved up. I am sorry but I just rev it up by myself so I am not sure What the actual RPM is. I hope this helped. let me know if you have other questions.
Sir I am very grateful to you and I have learnt a lot from you Sir please make a video on how to change the compressor of VRF machine and how to flash it Thank you
Thank you so much for your kind words! I am so glad to hear that I have helped you learn! I will make a note of it and try to do my best to make a video. I have just been so busy teaching! And thank you for watching!
Boss I'm ur well wisher from Bangladesh , and i try to learn more from ur lecture. U always make very useful and knowledgeable video.
Thank you so much! I need to get some more videos on here I just have not had time. But I hope I can do this for you soon! And thank you for telling me you are in Bangladesh!
Explain very well sir 👏God bless you
Thank you so much!!!! I am glad you liked the video!!!
Nice explanation Sir! you made it technically simple yet very inscribing to the thought.
Thank you!!!
Enjoyed your teaching. Thank you
Thank you so much, and thank you for watching!
Wow! Amazing instructor! A lot detail!
thank you!!!
Boss a lots of pray for u. For such a instruction.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! That means a lot to me!!! I am glad you like my videos!
11:40 - 18:40 How do you mitigate video burnout (blank screen)? (This presentation ends at 11:39.)
Wow! I didn't realize that it went up to 18:52! From what I can tell the video yes it is supposed to end at 11:40. I don't know how I missed that extra length of it. And no one had mentioned this before!? Thank you for pointing it out if I get a chance I will see if I can cut the rest of the blank screen off. Thank you!!!!!
Really great lecture
Thank you Glad you liked it!!!
great mentor. thank you sir
Thank you so much! I really appreciate your comment!
Thanks Julio!!!!
Thank you! I really appreciate your comment and thank you for watching!
But how do you figure out if it’s a compressor burn out because of the LRA or the windings in the compressor have shorted if both escenarios will give you a compressor that it shorted to ground. How do you figure if it’s a burnout or a short?
Sometimes that is a hard thing to figure out. you have to do a lot of research to completely figure that out and unfortunately most techs will not. One thing you should do is to do an acid test. If acid destroy the windings the acid test will come back positive. It should not come back positive if it was LRA that burned up the compressor. Another thing you would do if it is a semi hermetic compressor, you could take the oil pump off and try to rotate the crankshaft. If it does not rotate then the compressor is locked up and you drew LRA and that is why the motor burned up. If it is not a semi hermetic compressor, you would still need to do an acid test kit and after the compressor is running and it is properly charged then check the superheat. A TXV is going to maintain constant superheat. If the system uses a TXV and the TXV is faulty then the superheat might be low and it would flood the compressor causing it to lock up. Liquid refrigerant coming back to the compressor will lock the compressor up, so this is what you would be looking for if it is a hermetic compressor. I hope this makes sense. But it does take some research to figure out what caused the compressor to be bad. When I teach a compressors class that is the most important thing I tell them that they have to do once they have replaced the compressor. "To find out the reason for the failure". If you don't find out the reason for the failure it will happen again! thank you for watching and thank you for the question! I hope this explained it.
Should i change the txv when get a bad comprresor
First question that you need to ask is what made his compressor fail? If it failed because of acid in the system, then there is no need. It failed because of a leak that has caused the compressor to overheat then there is no need. if it failed a floodback, you need to find out why you had floodback. Is it that the TXV has failed or is that someone adjusted it. Unfortunately, if it is one of these, you will not know until after you replaced the compressor. One of the things in class is when you replace a compressor you must find the reason for the failure! There is no yes or no answer to your question. This is about the best I can do. Good luck and thank you for watching!
Hello. I have a pin hole on the compressor terminal I never saw that before. Can a burn out cause that. I don’t smell anything but the refrigerant left the system when I looked at it.
Typically what I see is the terminals that blow out. I don't think I have seen a hole where there is an actual leak at the terminal. Typically when you have a loose connection at the terminal heating and cooling will cause the terminals to blow out. But once that happens the entire charge is lost. I guess you are lucky that it is just a small leak and you have time to get a new compressor. I don't think your situation can be fixed. A burnout will typically burn the compressor out, meaning the windings will be destroyed and you will end up with either a grounded compressor or shorted windings. Thank you for your comment.
Thanks for the information and same time I have a question. If we were to replace a whole compressor with the one that burnt out, do we need to know the reason for the burn out. I understand we need to flush the whole system for acid but now a new compressor replaces the old one. I would try to find the reason only if I have to replace the motor in the compressor or the bearings but if I am completely replacing the whole compressor then is there any need to know the reason for burnout ? Thanks
You should always try to find the reason for the failure. But because of what you are commenting on here, are you replacing an open compressor? Because typically when you replace the compressor, you are already replacing the motor that runs the compressor. On an open compressor, the motor is not in contact with the refrigerant. There is acid in the system. The acid will travel with oil and affect Motor. If the reason you are replacing, the compressor is because of broken parts inside of the compressor, it could be that you have floodback. You're getting liquid back to the compressor in which case if you do not find out the reason for the failure, the new compressor is going to fail really soon. So yes, you should always find out the reason for the failure and if you have acid in the system, you need to neutralize the acid. Flushing the system, or I should say the lines with a cleaning agent and nitrogen might not be enough. You need to put some acid away or some kind of neutralizer hope this answers your question. I hope you find out why the compressors keep failing good luck and thank you for watching!
Ty
You demystified the workings of that “big noisy machine,” that no longer works. So, maybe our unit can be repaired?
Thank you for the question. if the motor in the compressor has a burnout it is very difficult to fix. The motor needs to be rewound and that may be very hard to do. the compressor may need to be replace. That is one of the reasons people like open compressors, because the motor is easy to replace. I hope this answers your question
What would happen if one of the two circuit breakers at the electrical panel providing 220 volts to the compressor failed? Would it eventually cause burnout as described in this video?
If only one circuit breaker fails it would be like deenergizing the contactor that only has a single pole. In other words, no, it would not cause the compressor to fail. The electricity would go into the compressor, but it would not do any harm. Typically when you have a 220 V power supply, the circuit breakers are mechanically connected so if one trips both will trip at the same time. I hope this answers your question and thank you for watching!
@@AirConAcademy Thank you for the response. In my situation the bad circuit breaker didnt trip the good one so the AC system was running but not putting out cold air. I discovered the bad breaker at night when I could see it arcing behind the electrical panel. When I pulled it dirt and mechanical parts fell out of it. I think the dirt probably caused it to arc internally and destroyed its function. After replacement the AC functioned normally. I now have a rental property with a burnt out compressor and was just curious if a similar bad circuit breaker could eventually cause a failure. Thank you for letting me know.
@@sizzelot wow! If I understand you correctly, your circuit breaker fell apart in the box or as you were pulling it out. That is bad. What was happening to your unit? Is that with that bad circuit breaker you are not sending the total voltage needed to the air conditioning unit. Because of that you put a load on the compressor and the fans so they probably overheated and quit working. It is a good thing you found it when you did. That is a very rare occurrence so I don't believe that is the same thing that happened in your rental property. If you have not replaced the unit in your rental property. You should be able to get someone to replace the compressor only!!!. It would be very important for you to make sure that they flush the lines, and install a liquid line filter dryer that is what they call HH. In other words, it would be an HH liquid line filter dryer. You can also talk them into putting a suction Line HH filter dryer to help clean the system. The HH driers are designed to trap the acid so if your compressor went bad in the rental property you could have acid in the system. This will help trap it and clean it up. I hope this information helps you. If you have any other questions please let me know. I also have some videos online that talk about the filter, dryers and bad compressors. Good luck!
Nice!
Thank you!!!!
Kindly sir, make a lecture about part winding starter for Sami hermetic reciprocating compressor
I believe I have a video on part start winding. I believe this is what you were asking about. ruclips.net/video/dQGYSDmvGz0/видео.html
Hi,
Why they but a burn out filter in the suction line after the compressor failed, isnt a filter-dryer more important, Becauce all damage stuff from the compressor go in to old filter dryer.
Yousaf Abbas Very good question! A lot of times a dryer is just put in and the technician does not ask these good questions. A burn out filter in the suction is basically the same as a suction line filter dryer. I am not sure what you have seen out in the field, but the burn out filter dryer will absorb whatever acid may be in the system. A suction line filter dryer Will only absorb the moisture that is in the system. A burn out dryer or like a lot of people call it, HH dryer. It will also absorb the hydrochloric hydrofluoric acid that is created in the system with a burn out or when moisture is introduced into the system. After a burn out or preferably anytime a compressor is being replaced the technician should perform an acid test. If the test shows there is acid in the system then the burn out filter dryer, or an HH dryer should be put in the system to clean it out. A few days after the system has been running the technician should perform another acid test. If the acid test comes back positive then the burn out filter dryer should be replaced again. Testing and replacing the burn out filter dryer should be done again and again until the acid test shows there is no more acid in the system. I hope this explains what you were asking. Thank you for your question. And please, keep asking and keep learning!
Aircon Academy thank you, what I still not understand, when this hydrochloric comes in the system, is that when compressor burn out? And how this come after the compressor failed in the hole system?
@@aycabbas It happens because the oil breaks down as you have a burn out. Also when technicians do not purge the hoses and do not get the air and moisture out of the hoses. Then the acid is formed. Some times the hoses are already contaminated from when they were used in a contaminated system, so now the contamination from the contaminated system is put in to the clean system and it contaminates it then the compressor fails.
Thanks sir, I do have a question, if my compressor is bad and I know it's bad and burnt up, it smells burnt, do I have to replace my entire system, ie, outside unit, inside furnace, air handler, does this require me to replace my entire unit, say 6,500 dollars,,,or CAN the system be flushed out and replace just compressor? Thanks
Most likely a contractor will suggest replacing the entire system. But if you are doing the work, or you have someone that is willing to do the work, you. After you replace the compressor, you can flush the liquid line and the suction line with a cleaning agent. Not just nitrogen! Nitrogen will not clean the lines! Then, if you have had a burn out like you mentioned, you need to install. an HH liquid line and an HH suction line filter dryer. These type of dryers will trap the acid that is in the system. But you will have to replace them a few times. You should do an acid test and replace the dryers until the system is clean. When it is time to replace the dryers, you should not recover the refrigerant. But do a pump down so that it saves you time and money. In case you do not know when you pump down your storing the refrigerant in the condenser. This will keep you from having to pay so much money for a brand new system! I hope this helps! Good luck and thank you for watching. !!!
Thanks for your reply and for your detailed feedback regarding my system, I'm very handy and can work on and fix almost anything, I have electrical experience, but HVAC is not my wheel house, and I don't have any equipment, so I guess I'll go with AC window units. Question,, in the winter, can I still use my heat from my furnace? Thanks so much for your help....
@@davidlaws1438 yes! In the winter time, you can still use the furnace and it will not be a problem. I suppose window units will work. I don't know how big your house is but I know that there's a company called Mr. cool. They make. Mini splits that are very simple to install.
One thing I forgot to mention before is if you work on any of this, you need your CFC certification! If you do not have that you could get in trouble doing air-conditioning work. But! If you look into Mr. cool, all you are doing is connecting making connections and you don't need to deal any refrigerant so you would not need your CFC certification. I have install these and they're very easy to install. They come with all of the directions and how to do it. You will just have to drill a hole through your wall to run the refrigerant lines out. But these lines are very easy to handle! If you are interested in getting your CFC certification, I can help you with that. But definitely look at Mr. cool and you can install the mini split yourself! Good luck and I hope. You can stay cool this summer!
How thermostat on cars work sir....function,concept
On older cars they were just on and to regulate the temperature they would regulate the amount of hot water or coolant to the heater core. On new cars because of technology they adjust the water going to the heater core automatically so you can set the temperature and the controls control it sensing the cabin or return air temperature automatically. But that is only in some cars not all. I do not know how they do it in all cars.
@@AirConAcademy thank you for the reply sir.....can you make a video sir some trouble shooting of cars ac sys. ex.freezing evaporator,or txv what are most causes for the problem....and some trouble shooting on what if high side plug,what would be the effect,or on the manifold gauge some trouble bouncing gauge pointers both.....
@@AirConAcademy and if ok sir...also how to properly recover freon not using machine,vacuum using vacuum motor,and recharge sys.using only manifold gauge...thank you sir godbless
@@mr.technician4144 I will try but not sure when I can get to these please keep watching. thank you
@@AirConAcademy thank you so much sir I also wondering why everybody uploaded car ac system trouble shooting then fixing without showing how to add oil on the system....
If V=IR, & if resistance is constant, then why does current shoot up at start?
Very good question!!!!! unfortunately in schools they only teach ohms law in resistive loads!!! motors are inductive loads and they act differently. Ohms law does NOT work on inductive loads or in other words motors. I guess I should do a video talking about this!!! thank you and good question.
I think it's because of the power needed by the motor to counter the starting torque from complete rest to its rated speed. The Electrical power P=IV, which when converted to Mechanical power = 2pieTN, relates the power directly proportional to the Torque (T) and Speed (N). The Current (I) is therefore directly proportional also to the Torque which is very high from rest to motion then lowers down as the motor speed gains its momentum or inertia.
Ronald Barrion Yes, it has to overcome that the rotor is standing still so it does need all that power. the magnetic field builds up and the counter electromotive force is what makes the amperage drop that down after it has started up. There is a lot to all of this and how our motors work. Resistive loads like a heater are very different than how an inductive load like the motors operate. It is so interesting to study the differences between the two.
Sir please explain the purpose of economizer subassembly in chiller
Thanks Mr. Herrera for this lesson. Quick question Sir, does the car rpm have any impact on the ac system when charging r134a freon? If so, what should be the maximum rpm to the compressor proper speed while charging the system? Because while charging the car Ac today, the low side pressure kept building up to 40-50 psi and the high side was at 150 psi. but when I raised the rpm, the gauge will drop to 15 psi on low side and about 50-60 psi on high side. but due to fear of burning the compressor coil or stock which happened to me few days ago by adding more refrigerants, I assumed that the problem was the blockage in the TXV. So I discontinued the work in order to avoid any serious damage and I lost that cash and wasted my materials. Please help me sir. Thanks.
If you had to look for a blockage and you had to start with an empty system you should charge by weight. The car should tell you how much refrigerant should be in the system so you could get the proper charge. That is the best way to charge a system. When I have charged a car I usually do it by myself so I am not sure what the RPM are. I add some liquid and then some gas to make sure I do not flood the compressor. I usually keep the saturation temperature on the low side just above 32 degrees F. with the engine revved up. I am sorry but I just rev it up by myself so I am not sure What the actual RPM is. I hope this helped. let me know if you have other questions.
Thanks Sir, I'll try that