Well now I'll take an tell ya I have been porting saw's for goin on 30+ year's and this ol'kid John is topnotch!!!! There are only a hand full of guys that can mach his ability to do this kind of work keep up the AWSOME WORK OLKID!!!!
Nice work! I used to use a diamond imprgnated compound from work on my snowmobiles and jetskis. Also used it on RC cars. It was used for blending inside diameter of carbide and tool steel dies after pressing them together. Ours come in 3 colors for grit. Used it on the small white dremel pads. Ports looked like chrome.
Looks great my man! I use 400 grit on a drill and sometimes go a bit finer. Comes out nice. But I like your method better. Seems to work a bit faster! Thanks for the tips man
It would definitely make for a very polished and shiny surface but you can’t take a 300 or 500 grit surface up to polish… you need to go up in steps… 500/800/1000 that’s where this little technique really shine’s… it’s using the old material to sand the surface facing… you are dumping from 200 or 320 up to around 800-1000 in the one step… you could probably use ZAM polish… it’s mostly used in sterling silver and torquiest jewelry to go one more step smoother from where he ends up at… but at some point right in this area it’s not really going to be any more beneficial… it’s just a great little cheat to save a lot of time
done this using a polishing kit. gets it to a mirror i can see my face in. also polish top of piston to a mirror to and top of cylinder around plug hole seems to make more power and carbon don't stick so easy .didn't know this way ya learn something new every day
you're correct about the metal dust: fine aluminum particles are coming off and oxidizing, making alumina which is a common abrasive. I think the scotchbrite pads are infused with alumina to begin with.
Thanks for re-uploading (old version of this had those no-video moments at key times, couldn't tell if it was you playing games or just an error lol!), am new to this and had been trying all kinds of attachments, rubbing compounds etc but cannot get past a "perfectly-smooth hazy-mirror....cannot wait til I have a top-end opened again so I can try again after having seen this, thanks again!! Love the terminology btw ("2nd cut"), I see it the same in my mind but putting words to things helps so much more, doing "rounds" of successively finer/smoother sanding... I found, at first, I was going and ruining cylinders because I'd wait til the grinding was like 95% done before beginning teh smoothnig (and then, chasing defects for smoothness, I'd end up w/ a larger port than desired) so now once I'm around 75-85% I begin going for smooth, start using those sanding barrels on the dremel instead of the burrs, in-preparation for the finer stuff. Glad you mentioned steel wool, meant to try that last time & forgot, it's in my notes now ;) JB in intakes is very neat where applicable, reliable easy and lets you 'choose' for instance on big bore 660 builds it's required (as they send them w/ skirts that're 73thou short, intake timing is nonsense "out of box"), gonna be trying a 395 piston (plus its con.rod bearing, so it fits the 660) instead but otherwise you need JB in that case, I came to like it (I had to do 3 of those jugs to get 1 that I liked, anyway I came to like that I could make the intake floor even higher than I'd initially wanted (while widening it) on a later cylinder, usually you can't choose to reduce your intake timing (though besides some instances w/ 660's I've never heard of desire to :P )
I was just messing around on that video I didn't think I had any secrets or tricks to offer to be honest but I'm glad a lot of people got something out of this video it's really cool that it helped some people.. I always say find what works for you if you can use some of my methods and other ideas then make it your own... also metal polish will give you a nicer finish... this old timer that showed me how to port on dirt bikes told me that metal polish is bad for cylinder linings so i have it in my head but I don't think it really hurts it
When you can stick a straight edge in there and cant find any rock in the port then it's flat but that doesn't mean it's blow pattern is correct. Get two 10 inch long small steel rods, put them in the port sitting flat against the sides and note the angles the rods are pointing out of the cylinder. Blow pattern should always be considered before any grinding is done.
Have you tried Cratex bits. They also make generic versions that are way cheaper I think a pack of 50 is like 10 bucks, they are a rubber abrasive that you can get a mirror polish instantly. It almost takes off material faster on rougher surfaces then slows down on polished surfaces I think they are designed that way to keep you from hoggin out material on accident. The bits are awesome because you can take a metal file preferably one you don't like and you can shape them to get into any hard to reach spaces. The ones I get are varying sizes of cilinders with quite a bit of bit to work with,. I would use them back when I worked in the shop we did a lot of heavy duty diesels and a lot of hot rod motors. Doing any kind of head work they were second to none to get any metal to a mirror shine in 0 seconds flat.. Just be warned tho like any other abrasive you can go to far with these so you have to be careful on your super critical tolerance areas.. Just a suggestion I like what you did with the scotch brite. It gets expensive buying the little wheel forms especially if there is any sharp edges for you to explode them on.
Mothers is better than flitz IMHO... its what I use for polishing the side covers and anything else I want chrome... I honestly use WD40 because an old timer that got me into porting dirt bikes told me polish is bad for cylinder linings... but I have never heard anyone else say that so uts probably just in my head 🤷♂️
pretty mint job. but i expected to understand the difference of the air passing through the muffler on this setup instead of let the port rough. what's the difference on performance, on long term carbon etc..
Ya he does have a real steady hand but if your first ruff isnt that clean that is why you will leave a little stock. He is just so good at it he doesn't have to. But a couple under your belt and boom im just scared to mess up my saw by taking to much material.
We actually use the same process with polishing equalizing ports on steam turbines with a minor difference. May be worth looking at just to see how it does…. You can get rods with a nut on the end, so we will get Scotch brite discs that have petals cut out so they collapse easily. We will also get them bigger than the hole so when they are spinning the individual petals are forced into the side. We used WD40 or Kroil also… we will also go with multiple grits of scotch brite . Doing this gives a very uniform finish and hits the edges really well. And you can tell where you are at with polishing by the feel of the rotary tool as you run it through. The way you do it works well, but I think the method I described works a little faster and is dead uniform on the polish with a little less difficulty in managing pressure and location of the arbor
Yeap, I used to build race engines for karts. Same senerio, aluminum blocks. I started the way you do, went to sanding mandrel, but I finished with steel wool and aluminum polish, then final polish was cotton disc with aluminum polish
scotch bright pads are in fact abrasive on their own, metal wont really do anything to identical metal. using a liquid to "wet sand" just helps the waste (swarf) move out of the way so the abrasive can keep contacting the surface you are actually trying to polish, the wd-40 just wont evaporate like say Windex or isopropyl alcohol or if you literally held it under water, but then the tool would be fighting the resistance of the water. i would be curious how it would turn out if you took a small piece of leather and some polishing compound smeared all over it and did that after the scotch bright
They have buffing wheels an compounds for polishing made for those lil dremmel type tools. Ive not used to port anything but i have polished sn buffed some parts with them, they work great for intricate tight spots. Have you ever polished a cylinder head? Dome?
Could you give me some advice maybe? I just tore my 170 apart and polished the exhaust port, cleaned it all up and put it back together. It wouldn’t run before. Piston looks fine and all the bearings seem fine. I got it back together today and it started and ran for about 5 seconds. Now it won’t hit a lick
Do you do any decking when you do this? I ask, because I'm wondering if I try to chamfer the edges, or perhaps round the top of the intake at all, it may affect timing.
Would you tell me if you use a mathematical ratio on the exhaust ?? What is your favorite type of cylinder port edge breaking, radius or 45 angle scraper ???
Hey brother are you still around I hope to hear from ya Jake from guilty of treeson said he can’t get ahold of you I hope all is well well man I miss the vids
@@johnscustomsaws 1. How frequently needs to remove carbon (compared polished to unpolished port) - 2x, 3x... ? 2. How to safe clean port after polished is done? Is it possible not to damage shiny polished finish??? What tool you recommend other than screwdriver? Thank you for your advices
@Split your wig No it's obvious that you know nothing ,polishing exhaust ports does nothing to enhance any significant gains of airflow on a flow bench nor HP gains on a dyno, yielded gains will come from port shape,volume etc. all polishing does is slow the progression of carbon build up and that;s it . I've ported a few heads in my day and I have a friend who's been porting professional for some 35 plus years who taught me well over the years, I'm not here to bust anyones balls,just relaying some true facts.Having a rough barrier finish on an export port will not impede the flow
They claim it cuts emissions and noise/Soundwaves... but I have noticed there is more unburnt fuel left in the muffler when I don't remove some of it... thats mainly why I do it
I just did my first home port job on RZ350 cylinders. Lots of fun. I always polish the exhaust ports on my MC cylinders. I appreciate this video as it has tips to improve efficiencies. Always a good thing.
Sir i have two stroke cylinder i want to increase its rpm,power please help me how i can increase the speed from its ports. Please help me tell me sir😕🥺
Love the videos mate, some great info. Question around porting though. Have you had any issue's with the Nikasil flaking/ lifting from where you have ported? Cheers
Not if the finish is good, and still usually not a problem if not really finished. There probably is some bad plating out there though that can fail early even if stock. I champher mine with a diamond impregnated cutting tools (no flutes), and Craytex rubber abrasives for the finish. I can usually get a good job done where it is hard to see where the plating starts. 10's of thousands of cylinders done sold word wide over the last 20 years, never had a ring snag the plating.
I knew it. I also showed that little trick on a chainsaw forum 14 years ago. Really enjoy your flicks on porting. I watch them all around the world. Have you ever thought of using a adjustable regular and a smaller spray fitting on you NOS system?
Thats awesome man... the WD-40 trick is an old school method and the guy that showed it to me said that some metal polishes can be hard on the cylinder lining so I have always been nervous to use it ... probably a non-issue but he was a super smart dude and 2 stroke wizard... as far as the adjustable NOS yes that would be awesome... especially since the NOS is not consistent... when the bottle is full it is definitely more dense and towards the end its very thin... it is tough to control with the big valve on the bottle but a secondary valve is a really good idea man... I might try that 💯
If you use a metal polish you should wipe down the bore with a clean towel and acetone or something as a regular dish or hand soap will not cut the waxes… they are chemically designed to break down an oil molecule not necessary a wax molecule… and as you know cleanliness is next to godliness where it comes to internal engine surface’s… my uncle had a metal fuel filter in between the tank and right where it came up into the engine bay… like a little charge regulator… it wasn’t about filtering the gas it was something about that line into the more voluminous container and then back into the line and then threw the intake… I think it actually acted as a mix device or a conditioner… if you are really into it… run an additional air line into your filter….or accumulator…and get a regular cylinder of compressed air… a dive tank… and cut your nitrous hit with the compressed air… You will actually be getting a boost from nothing but air…😉👍
@@DaveyBlue32 thats really clever... that might be something I try in the future... I have a new fuel delivery and intake system on the NOS saw that solved my lean running issues now I can really start messing with the nitrous and boost
@@johnscustomsaws yeah man…with the nitrous not having any lubrication properties or ability you are needing to compensate for it’s heat with your fuel mixture… wondering if you did a mix valve and used a small propane bottle and mixed your nitrous hit with the propane before the cylinder if you wouldn’t be way ahead of the game… 16:1 with super techniplate…in the dive tank world… we use a higher pressure tank and you can mix your gases in your dive tanks off of your higher pressure master tanks… like when you are working extra deep and are breathing nitrox … and if really deep then helium in the heliox like at 900 feet…. But my thinking is that an empty nitrous bottle could be prefilled with propane just with the little valve that lets you flip a 20lb er and fill your small propane tanks… then it could be topped off with nitrous??? If you were running a nitromethane blend at 16:1 with techniplate that nitrous with some propane for lube might be a viable hit??? Wondering off the cuff if a little bit of diesel or kerosene or aviation fuel would add lubrication properties that are needed??? This might be a neat area to research??? at 10-(15)-20% of the mix that really high octane would. Wondering about the snowmobile drag racing scene boy’s… I know that they are all turbocharged but I’m sure there’s been some playing with fuel bleeding and nitrous setup’s…. That nitrous bottle you have with propane and high pressure air would be a pretty sweet hit for a chainsaw and it’s not that crazy heat without any lube factors???? It’s definitely some fun shit!!! When I first saw the video of you and that saw that catches fire in your hands as you are trying to blast it out on a nitrous shot!!! I knew you were right up my alley!!! Then you were doing the smartazz routine in your video’s and I was rolling…laughing my ass off … and loving it… then you helped out Treason and I was liking you way way way more!!!!
@@DaveyBlue32 you are right in line with a lot of the ideas I have... I just wish I had the time to really dedicate to these crazy projects... I would try it all if time permitted 💯 i have a few projects in the works I haven't shared any details yet and they are pretty interesting 😉 will have to see if I can't blow myself up or tear a hole on time with a 084 lol
Hello from Brazil my friend Can you try to help me, please? My chainsaw has a problem with excessive compression. But when I remove the spark plug the piston rotates normally. Even placing your finger in thze spark plug opening causes the piston to become extremely compressed again. Yesterday I installed a completely new cylinder and piston, but the problem remains. I changed the spark plug, removed the carburetor and exhaust fan, and still the problem remains. Do you have any idea what it could be? Can I send you a video showing the problem? I have been seeking help with this mystery on various social media channels, Instagram, RUclips, but no one has been able to guess what could be causing the problem.
if you wann get a real mirror out of it, use some polish paste on the rack. it will go faster and will shine even more ;-) there are spezial compounds for aluminum too. they are not expensive but help a lot to get metal polished even faster 🙂
You will gain torque in most situations so I say yes... on 200t its definitely beneficial.. Its better to lower cylinder than raise the exhaust and not lower cylinder if that makes sense
Hey i know how to use those tools but your dann good with them . I used to do debutr at a machine shop . I been contemplating doing my 359 husqvarne but i dont know what im doing. How much to cut and all that..
That’s exactly what I do after a friend who makes jewellery told me about it. My old man who used to be an aeronautical engineer advised doing exactly the same as John but with brasso rather than WD40 and that also gives a mirror finish. Whichever way floats your boat I think it’s real decent of John to share his technique - top lad.
Very interesting video, have you ever experimented how a chainsaw works with a modified piston, i mean in such a way that you take a iron hand file..and file down on top of the piston... Like angles, hard to explain but we used to do it on mopeds here back in the old days and it "" should"" work since it's a 2 stroke machine!?, . It's a challenge to explain this in English! Hope you understand 😂 Ofc if the piston has a flat surface on top it can be difficult.
That operation is called "pie cutting" on the top edge of a piston where the port is. I use a CNC mill to cut mine that adds 5.5 degrees of exhaust port open duration, for large scale rc cars and Go-Ped scooters. I have sold thousands of them. They may work better than some peoples porting. :) It was usually done by a engine tuner for an inexpensive way to test port duration before they cut an expensive cylinder. I just put it in production.
depends. If you use it to make money, go for it. But if you are not it's nor worth it finacially. Probably at very very least if you know a friend $ 200 and professionally like 300-600$
What is the point of this? Honest?... If it does give more HP, how much more can it possibly give? Or does it just sound louder and give a placebo affect and make you think it's got more umph? Yea, I get you can never have too much power but is this really worth it? (I'm talking polishing. I know opening the ports helps, a wee bit.)
I can tell u from experience, opening the ports, smoothing flaws and polishing the exhaust with gasket matching makes a massive difference, it gives a whole new performance feel to any 2 stroke engine, especially small displacement stuff that are usually not manufactured with the most precise methods
The main reason for me is to prevent carbon build up... and that allows me to run a tighter squish... and thats HUGE for performance... I get that its easy to find an excuse to not do the work and you can do whatever you think is best man no argument here... this is just how I do it... I rough up intakes and polish exhaust ports
It's a TV show on Discovery. I'm trying to get into. I'm working at a large Gold mine in Fairbanks, operating a giant Caterpillar triple 777 "Tonka Truck" because the "Gold Rush" miner is not in Fairbanks like he's supposed to be. You would not understand if your not a fan. Trapper scotty, Alaskan
@@TrapperScottyAlaskan wait... the TV show?!?!? I have seen the show where they have floating rigs and divers that work the sea floor... but you must be talking about something different... dude hood luck man I'm rooting for you... any way I can help? I don't have a huge channel bit if you need votes or something I can try to give you a shout out... I think its super cool
@@TrapperScottyAlaskan thats awesome man... I will have to start watching it of you are on the show... hell I would just want to try to get rich lol I have a really intense mindset I could see myself getting obsessed with gold fever really bad 🤒 I hope u strike it rich my man 💯
I wish this dude would post more videos. One of the few chainsaw porters that I looked fwd to watching.
But he’sgatekeeping…
@@Carboneye7 idk what that means?
That scotchbrite trick is SLICK! definitely putting that into my arsenal! I love when professionals share tips and tricks
A well polished port is, if nothing else, a thing of beauty. Great job!
Well now I'll take an tell ya I have been porting saw's for goin on 30+ year's and this ol'kid John is topnotch!!!! There are only a hand full of guys that can mach his ability to do this kind of work keep up the AWSOME WORK OLKID!!!!
You still doing it?
Nice work! I used to use a diamond imprgnated compound from work on my snowmobiles and jetskis. Also used it on RC cars. It was used for blending inside diameter of carbide and tool steel dies after pressing them together. Ours come in 3 colors for grit. Used it on the small white dremel pads. Ports looked like chrome.
Looks great my man! I use 400 grit on a drill and sometimes go a bit finer. Comes out nice. But I like your method better. Seems to work a bit faster! Thanks for the tips man
Wonder what it would look like if you could use a leather strip and jewelers rouge that they polist metal with
Polish not polist ffs
It would definitely make for a very polished and shiny surface but you can’t take a 300 or 500 grit surface up to polish… you need to go up in steps… 500/800/1000 that’s where this little technique really shine’s… it’s using the old material to sand the surface facing… you are dumping from 200 or 320 up to around 800-1000 in the one step… you could probably use ZAM polish… it’s mostly used in sterling silver and torquiest jewelry to go one more step smoother from where he ends up at… but at some point right in this area it’s not really going to be any more beneficial… it’s just a great little cheat to save a lot of time
@@johnc9738
Use a full stop FFS.
Ed: Heh, heh, heh…
Oh and *excellent* deadpan humor on the wd 39/40/41 that was nice ;P
In my minimal experience I have been doing the same, taking my time except the WD40.
I was satisfied with my results in the end.
Thanks John.
done this using a polishing kit. gets it to a mirror i can see my face in. also polish top of piston to a mirror to and top of cylinder around plug hole seems to make more power and carbon don't stick so easy .didn't know this way ya learn something new every day
Thank's John. Usually use aluminum polish. Never tried scotchbright /WD 40 combo. Huge difference. Thank you!
you're correct about the metal dust: fine aluminum particles are coming off and oxidizing, making alumina which is a common abrasive. I think the scotchbrite pads are infused with alumina to begin with.
Thanks for re-uploading (old version of this had those no-video moments at key times, couldn't tell if it was you playing games or just an error lol!), am new to this and had been trying all kinds of attachments, rubbing compounds etc but cannot get past a "perfectly-smooth hazy-mirror....cannot wait til I have a top-end opened again so I can try again after having seen this, thanks again!! Love the terminology btw ("2nd cut"), I see it the same in my mind but putting words to things helps so much more, doing "rounds" of successively finer/smoother sanding... I found, at first, I was going and ruining cylinders because I'd wait til the grinding was like 95% done before beginning teh smoothnig (and then, chasing defects for smoothness, I'd end up w/ a larger port than desired) so now once I'm around 75-85% I begin going for smooth, start using those sanding barrels on the dremel instead of the burrs, in-preparation for the finer stuff. Glad you mentioned steel wool, meant to try that last time & forgot, it's in my notes now ;)
JB in intakes is very neat where applicable, reliable easy and lets you 'choose' for instance on big bore 660 builds it's required (as they send them w/ skirts that're 73thou short, intake timing is nonsense "out of box"), gonna be trying a 395 piston (plus its con.rod bearing, so it fits the 660) instead but otherwise you need JB in that case, I came to like it (I had to do 3 of those jugs to get 1 that I liked, anyway I came to like that I could make the intake floor even higher than I'd initially wanted (while widening it) on a later cylinder, usually you can't choose to reduce your intake timing (though besides some instances w/ 660's I've never heard of desire to :P )
I was just messing around on that video I didn't think I had any secrets or tricks to offer to be honest but I'm glad a lot of people got something out of this video it's really cool that it helped some people.. I always say find what works for you if you can use some of my methods and other ideas then make it your own... also metal polish will give you a nicer finish... this old timer that showed me how to port on dirt bikes told me that metal polish is bad for cylinder linings so i have it in my head but I don't think it really hurts it
When you can stick a straight edge in there and cant find any rock in the port then it's flat but that doesn't mean it's blow pattern is correct. Get two 10 inch long small steel rods, put them in the port sitting flat against the sides and note the angles the rods are pointing out of the cylinder. Blow pattern should always be considered before any grinding is done.
Have you tried Cratex bits. They also make generic versions that are way cheaper I think a pack of 50 is like 10 bucks, they are a rubber abrasive that you can get a mirror polish instantly. It almost takes off material faster on rougher surfaces then slows down on polished surfaces I think they are designed that way to keep you from hoggin out material on accident. The bits are awesome because you can take a metal file preferably one you don't like and you can shape them to get into any hard to reach spaces. The ones I get are varying sizes of cilinders with quite a bit of bit to work with,. I would use them back when I worked in the shop we did a lot of heavy duty diesels and a lot of hot rod motors. Doing any kind of head work they were second to none to get any metal to a mirror shine in 0 seconds flat.. Just be warned tho like any other abrasive you can go to far with these so you have to be careful on your super critical tolerance areas.. Just a suggestion I like what you did with the scotch brite. It gets expensive buying the little wheel forms especially if there is any sharp edges for you to explode them on.
Thank you for the tips.I was not using the wd40 with the scotch brite .Tryed using flitz and buffing but it took a long time!
Mothers is better than flitz IMHO... its what I use for polishing the side covers and anything else I want chrome... I honestly use WD40 because an old timer that got me into porting dirt bikes told me polish is bad for cylinder linings... but I have never heard anyone else say that so uts probably just in my head 🤷♂️
Excellent. Working on this myself. I used a hard rubber bit and a mix of lapping compound and wd-39
Really 39 huh... I just can't get 39 to cooperate with me... whatever works tho lol
Thanks for the tip. I have been using emery cloth and fine sandpaper, then a piece of rag with polish to get mine like this. Your way is much faster.
pretty mint job. but i expected to understand the difference of the air passing through the muffler on this setup instead of let the port rough. what's the difference on performance, on long term carbon etc..
Great tips thank u 4 sharing ur exhaust ports do look badass sir. Have a good week.
What kind of hand drills are you using? Never seen those before looks like they're very high quality!
I have been using the exact same method for years, producing good results. You have a steady hand and your port work is super clean.
Ya he does have a real steady hand but if your first ruff isnt that clean that is why you will leave a little stock. He is just so good at it he doesn't have to. But a couple under your belt and boom im just scared to mess up my saw by taking to much material.
We actually use the same process with polishing equalizing ports on steam turbines with a minor difference. May be worth looking at just to see how it does…. You can get rods with a nut on the end, so we will get Scotch brite discs that have petals cut out so they collapse easily. We will also get them bigger than the hole so when they are spinning the individual petals are forced into the side. We used WD40 or Kroil also… we will also go with multiple grits of scotch brite . Doing this gives a very uniform finish and hits the edges really well. And you can tell where you are at with polishing by the feel of the rotary tool as you run it through. The way you do it works well, but I think the method I described works a little faster and is dead uniform on the polish with a little less difficulty in managing pressure and location of the arbor
Yeap, I used to build race engines for karts. Same senerio, aluminum blocks. I started the way you do, went to sanding mandrel, but I finished with steel wool and aluminum polish, then final polish was cotton disc with aluminum polish
scotch bright pads are in fact abrasive on their own, metal wont really do anything to identical metal. using a liquid to "wet sand" just helps the waste (swarf) move out of the way so the abrasive can keep contacting the surface you are actually trying to polish, the wd-40 just wont evaporate like say Windex or isopropyl alcohol or if you literally held it under water, but then the tool would be fighting the resistance of the water. i would be curious how it would turn out if you took a small piece of leather and some polishing compound smeared all over it and did that after the scotch bright
Wow this was awesome to see, thank you immensely for sharing, you do the best chainsaw work that I have ever seen
Thanks man but lotta guys are killing it out there they just dont have RUclips channels...im just a showoff lol 😉 i appreciate it tho my man 💯
They have buffing wheels an compounds for polishing made for those lil dremmel type tools. Ive not used to port anything but i have polished sn buffed some parts with them, they work great for intricate tight spots. Have you ever polished a cylinder head? Dome?
where did you go John?
Great vid.whats the bit called that held the scotchbrite to dremel.cheers.
Could you give me some advice maybe? I just tore my 170 apart and polished the exhaust port, cleaned it all up and put it back together. It wouldn’t run before. Piston looks fine and all the bearings seem fine. I got it back together today and it started and ran for about 5 seconds. Now it won’t hit a lick
Do you do any decking when you do this?
I ask, because I'm wondering if I try to chamfer the edges, or perhaps round the top of the intake at all, it may affect timing.
Great work! Did you port already a Husqvarna 543xp?
Would you tell me if you use a mathematical ratio on the exhaust ?? What is your favorite type of cylinder port edge breaking, radius or 45 angle scraper ???
Nice job and technique.
Very nice tutorial and thanks for all the advice!
Hey brother are you still around I hope to hear from ya Jake from guilty of treeson said he can’t get ahold of you I hope all is well well man I miss the vids
Is the mirror finish purely aesthetic, or is it for enhanced engine performance? I’m new here.
It definitely helps performance and really helps keep the carbon from building uo
@@johnscustomsaws
1. How frequently needs to remove carbon (compared polished to unpolished port) - 2x, 3x... ?
2. How to safe clean port after polished is done? Is it possible not to damage shiny polished finish??? What tool you recommend other than screwdriver?
Thank you for your advices
polishing exhaust ports does nothing to enhance performance it's mostly just for cosmetics
@Split your wig No it's obvious that you know nothing ,polishing exhaust ports does nothing to enhance any significant gains of airflow on a flow bench nor HP gains on a dyno, yielded gains will come from port shape,volume etc. all polishing does is slow the progression of carbon build up and that;s it . I've ported a few heads in my day and I have a friend who's been porting professional for some 35 plus years who taught me
well over the years, I'm not here to bust anyones balls,just relaying some true facts.Having a rough barrier finish on an export port will not impede the flow
at 7:30 how do you do that the scotch brite is connected to the drill bit? And which grit do you use? 400?
did I miss the part where you covered why its worth it?
What exactly is the point of that baffle inside of the muffler? I have a 462 and it has it and I've debated taking it out.
Lower noise
They claim it cuts emissions and noise/Soundwaves... but I have noticed there is more unburnt fuel left in the muffler when I don't remove some of it... thats mainly why I do it
Thank you for this great porting tip. 👍
Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
I just did my first home port job on RZ350 cylinders. Lots of fun. I always polish the exhaust ports on my MC cylinders. I appreciate this video as it has tips to improve efficiencies. Always a good thing.
Cool bikes rz350
Good poweband kick
@@rayban5737 Thanks dood. I happen to have a garage full of them and a few other bikes.
Your right, the exhaust.
Not the intake....
How much does porting effect the fuel comsumtion?
Try the white fiber abrasive. It almost mirror polished my axes. After scotchbrites
Hey John, can you please show us how you pull down a 500i to port it. I just subbed and love your work, thanks for sharing the love bro.
Sir i have two stroke cylinder i want to increase its rpm,power please help me how i can increase the speed from its ports. Please help me tell me sir😕🥺
Love the videos mate, some great info. Question around porting though. Have you had any issue's with the Nikasil flaking/ lifting from where you have ported?
Cheers
Not if the finish is good, and still usually not a problem if not really finished. There probably is some bad plating out there though that can fail early even if stock. I champher mine with a diamond impregnated cutting tools (no flutes), and Craytex rubber abrasives for the finish. I can usually get a good job done where it is hard to see where the plating starts. 10's of thousands of cylinders done sold word wide over the last 20 years, never had a ring snag the plating.
Great video John! Do you buy the 2" scotchbrite roll? Thanks for all the amazing videos have a great weekend.
I use buffing compound to bring it to a mirror finish. Just can’t be lazy and try different stuff out.
Ya your right about the polishing. Got to keep at it till it's right.
What bit do you use to put the scotchbrite in?
Super nice work!💯👍
Hey John what saw jug has a 52 mm piston?
461 does
460 461 462 064...
Is porting a ms250 worth it? Just curious cuz I have a extra one to play with
I knew it. I also showed that little trick on a chainsaw forum 14 years ago. Really enjoy your flicks on porting. I watch them all around the world. Have you ever thought of using a adjustable regular and a smaller spray fitting on you NOS system?
Thats awesome man... the WD-40 trick is an old school method and the guy that showed it to me said that some metal polishes can be hard on the cylinder lining so I have always been nervous to use it ... probably a non-issue but he was a super smart dude and 2 stroke wizard... as far as the adjustable NOS yes that would be awesome... especially since the NOS is not consistent... when the bottle is full it is definitely more dense and towards the end its very thin... it is tough to control with the big valve on the bottle but a secondary valve is a really good idea man... I might try that 💯
If you use a metal polish you should wipe down the bore with a clean towel and acetone or something as a regular dish or hand soap will not cut the waxes… they are chemically designed to break down an oil molecule not necessary a wax molecule… and as you know cleanliness is next to godliness where it comes to internal engine surface’s… my uncle had a metal fuel filter in between the tank and right where it came up into the engine bay… like a little charge regulator… it wasn’t about filtering the gas it was something about that line into the more voluminous container and then back into the line and then threw the intake… I think it actually acted as a mix device or a conditioner… if you are really into it… run an additional air line into your filter….or accumulator…and get a regular cylinder of compressed air… a dive tank… and cut your nitrous hit with the compressed air… You will actually be getting a boost from nothing but air…😉👍
@@DaveyBlue32 thats really clever... that might be something I try in the future... I have a new fuel delivery and intake system on the NOS saw that solved my lean running issues now I can really start messing with the nitrous and boost
@@johnscustomsaws yeah man…with the nitrous not having any lubrication properties or ability you are needing to compensate for it’s heat with your fuel mixture… wondering if you did a mix valve and used a small propane bottle and mixed your nitrous hit with the propane before the cylinder if you wouldn’t be way ahead of the game… 16:1 with super techniplate…in the dive tank world… we use a higher pressure tank and you can mix your gases in your dive tanks off of your higher pressure master tanks… like when you are working extra deep and are breathing nitrox … and if really deep then helium in the heliox like at 900 feet…. But my thinking is that an empty nitrous bottle could be prefilled with propane just with the little valve that lets you flip a 20lb er and fill your small propane tanks… then it could be topped off with nitrous??? If you were running a nitromethane blend at 16:1 with techniplate that nitrous with some propane for lube might be a viable hit??? Wondering off the cuff if a little bit of diesel or kerosene or aviation fuel would add lubrication properties that are needed??? This might be a neat area to research??? at 10-(15)-20% of the mix that really high octane would. Wondering about the snowmobile drag racing scene boy’s… I know that they are all turbocharged but I’m sure there’s been some playing with fuel bleeding and nitrous setup’s…. That nitrous bottle you have with propane and high pressure air would be a pretty sweet hit for a chainsaw and it’s not that crazy heat without any lube factors???? It’s definitely some fun shit!!! When I first saw the video of you and that saw that catches fire in your hands as you are trying to blast it out on a nitrous shot!!! I knew you were right up my alley!!! Then you were doing the smartazz routine in your video’s and I was rolling…laughing my ass off … and loving it… then you helped out Treason and I was liking you way way way more!!!!
@@DaveyBlue32 you are right in line with a lot of the ideas I have... I just wish I had the time to really dedicate to these crazy projects... I would try it all if time permitted 💯 i have a few projects in the works I haven't shared any details yet and they are pretty interesting 😉 will have to see if I can't blow myself up or tear a hole on time with a 084 lol
Thanx for sharing Big John!!!
Nice job. So is this finish just for the exhaust side? How smooth or rough does the intake side need to be?
I will do a video on the intakes... the way I do them at least... I use 60 grit sand paper... pretty rough finish is how I like it
do you have any dyno data for your porting?
Hello from Brazil my friend
Can you try to help me, please?
My chainsaw has a problem with excessive compression. But when I remove the spark plug the piston rotates normally. Even placing your finger in thze spark plug opening causes the piston to become extremely compressed again. Yesterday I installed a completely new cylinder and piston, but the problem remains. I changed the spark plug, removed the carburetor and exhaust fan, and still the problem remains. Do you have any idea what it could be? Can I send you a video showing the problem? I have been seeking help with this mystery on various social media channels, Instagram, RUclips, but no one has been able to guess what could be causing the problem.
If it is not modified, it won't have too much compression from the factory, unless maybe, it is communist china built.
Wow, what a difference!
Where can I send a saw for you to work on?
if you wann get a real mirror out of it, use some polish paste on the rack. it will go faster and will shine even more ;-) there are spezial compounds for aluminum too. they are not expensive but help a lot to get metal polished even faster 🙂
Regular house insulation works pretty good for polishing
How much for 2 ms260 cylinders ported
ok looks good. but what about port timing
So you gotta buy the service to get the intake 'secret'?
Lol no I am gonna do an intake video for 10k subscribers 👍
Do you just Dremel the exhaust port
Thats awesome. Thanks for sharing man
Is it worth just lowering a cyl without porting?
You will gain torque in most situations so I say yes... on 200t its definitely beneficial.. Its better to lower cylinder than raise the exhaust and not lower cylinder if that makes sense
Dude! Spectacular!
Hey i know how to use those tools but your dann good with them . I used to do debutr at a machine shop . I been contemplating doing my 359 husqvarne but i dont know what im doing. How much to cut and all that..
Have you ever tried polishing with a piece of leather and jewelers rouge it will look like a mirror
That’s exactly what I do after a friend who makes jewellery told me about it. My old man who used to be an aeronautical engineer advised doing exactly the same as John but with brasso rather than WD40 and that also gives a mirror finish. Whichever way floats your boat I think it’s real decent of John to share his technique - top lad.
Awesome job 👌👍👍
Beautiful work. How the heck do I reach you. Can’t find a phone number on line.
try the new wd40.5 it seems to be a bit grittier and breaks down nicely to polish the port.
Very interesting video, have you ever experimented how a chainsaw works with a modified piston, i mean in such a way that you take a iron hand file..and file down on top of the piston... Like angles, hard to explain but we used to do it on mopeds here back in the old days and it "" should"" work since it's a 2 stroke machine!?, . It's a challenge to explain this in English! Hope you understand 😂 Ofc if the piston has a flat surface on top it can be difficult.
That operation is called "pie cutting" on the top edge of a piston where the port is. I use a CNC mill to cut mine that adds 5.5 degrees of exhaust port open duration, for large scale rc cars and Go-Ped scooters. I have sold thousands of them. They may work better than some peoples porting. :)
It was usually done by a engine tuner for an inexpensive way to test port duration before they cut an expensive cylinder. I just put it in production.
Hey thanks John, I was wondering how the hell does he make such a beautiful finish on his exhaust port?!?!🤔 Oh yes I like your style, keep rough!
Nice job man !
Can you do this on the piston?
Scotch brite and WD40 on TOP of the piston with hand! NOT on the side... I would like to know also IF and HOW we can clear the sides of a piston.
How much and would it be worth porting a ms 440 magnum?
depends. If you use it to make money, go for it. But if you are not it's nor worth it finacially. Probably at very very least if you know a friend $ 200 and professionally like 300-600$
Black rouge, then white.
Cross hatching.
That's how.
:)
Awesome!!! Thanks for sharing
And bro them joints look really really good man u definitely do ur thing👍👍
Where is your shop/ contact info
What is the point of this? Honest?... If it does give more HP, how much more can it possibly give? Or does it just sound louder and give a placebo affect and make you think it's got more umph? Yea, I get you can never have too much power but is this really worth it? (I'm talking polishing. I know opening the ports helps, a wee bit.)
I can tell u from experience, opening the ports, smoothing flaws and polishing the exhaust with gasket matching makes a massive difference, it gives a whole new performance feel to any 2 stroke engine, especially small displacement stuff that are usually not manufactured with the most precise methods
The main reason for me is to prevent carbon build up... and that allows me to run a tighter squish... and thats HUGE for performance... I get that its easy to find an excuse to not do the work and you can do whatever you think is best man no argument here... this is just how I do it... I rough up intakes and polish exhaust ports
That was slick!
Wd40 works well for cutting aluminum
Great content 👍
Would it be healthy to wear gloves?
How do we get in touch with you?
Will be giving this a go this w/end👍🏼🧐😁
JOHNS CUSTOM SAWS
Are you the guy who ignores customers and still have their saws for 2-3 years now?
Is that you?
Nice my had is bad at hogging most of the material away, hope i can see the bumps and grind them without the bit jumping around
Where do I send my saw
How much to port a 461
Are you a fan of Gold Rush ? Trapper scotty, Alaskan
Idk... can I get gold in my pockets is that what you are asking. Then hell yes!!! Lol
It's a TV show on Discovery. I'm trying to get into. I'm working at a large Gold mine in Fairbanks, operating a giant Caterpillar triple 777 "Tonka Truck" because the "Gold Rush" miner is not in Fairbanks like he's supposed to be. You would not understand if your not a fan. Trapper scotty, Alaskan
@@TrapperScottyAlaskan wait... the TV show?!?!? I have seen the show where they have floating rigs and divers that work the sea floor... but you must be talking about something different... dude hood luck man I'm rooting for you... any way I can help? I don't have a huge channel bit if you need votes or something I can try to give you a shout out... I think its super cool
So I'm trying to work for Parker. Hes leaving the Klondike, and coming to Fairbanks but hes late. Stay tuned
@@TrapperScottyAlaskan thats awesome man... I will have to start watching it of you are on the show... hell I would just want to try to get rich lol I have a really intense mindset I could see myself getting obsessed with gold fever really bad 🤒 I hope u strike it rich my man 💯
Nice tutorial. Only experience will show you the little tricks and shortcuts…. Unless you watch RUclips
Beautiful
Id like my husqvarna 460 rancher ported!
Nice work😏