One thing I noticed is that when you ferment at high temps (mid 30C), your residual CO2 levels are much lower vs. typical ale yeast fermented at 20C. You need to increase your usual amount of priming sugar to counter the lower level of residual CO2 in solution.
I stir up the trub when the beer is in the bottling bucket and suck some into a syringe. Usually one or two drops per bottle does the trick, and condition the bottles in a storage box over a heat mat. No need to pay for more yeast :)
Nice to hear and see which methods you are using! I've also been submerging bottles in buckets of cleaner but instead I fill the whole bucket with cleaning solution and submerge the bottles empty. It is annoying to do but I doubt if the bottles will get a proper cleaning if they are submerged already full of water? Emptying and rinsing cleaned bottles also used to be my least favorite part of the whole brewing process but after purchasing a Double Blast bottle washer it got a whole lot easier. I also like to add the bottling/conditioning yeast while transferring beer to a bottling vessel, right after adding the priming sugar solution. I feel like it's more evenly distributed and less hassle than adding little bit in each bottle. Thanks for the video!
Thanks :) Keep in mind that the cleaner is part of the water and as soon as you bring in the bottles it will quick become part of the overall liquid. It works :)
That all explains my last brew, second time using kveik (love it) but first time bottling after years of kegging. I thought I stuffed up the bulk prime but some of the month old beer that have been moved around have started to come good. Thanks legend!
Brilliant David you have just explained to me why Philly Sour is not recommended for bottle conditioning! About an hour ago I emailed Lallemand about this as I have a brew on with one packet of Philly Sour in it and I had started my brew before I read on their website that this yeast was not recommended for bottle conditioning. I only bottle my beers at present so I will have to go through with it now and I can only hope there is some carbonation. Cheers David👍👍👍
i have had no issue with the Voss lalbrew or Mangrove Jack variety. Probably due in part to my process of using granulated demara sugar (Aussie's call it Raw Sugar) to each bottle. Yes, this kveik flocculates very well, but perhaps better concentration of the granulated sugar at the bottom makes this foolproof. Bulk priming might not be quite as successful as my own process. I should also say, i cold crash my FV to 2 degrees Celcius before my bottling/kegging process and experience no issues with missing yeast as some are still in suspension. Bottle carbonation is complete in 4 days when cellar'd at 18-20c.
Hard to say Steven, though if a yeast flocs really hard then the sugar type will not so much matter. The question is how hard it flocs as this can vary.
Oh oh... I didn't used CBC-1 the last time... It is now on bottle for a week. I will check over a week if there is any carbonation. Thanks for this video!
Thanks for all the information, David! I was about to brew a Yule porter with kveik, and since I am a new brewer there are lots of things I don't know yet. Haven't got around to getting kegs yet so I use sugar and flasks.
Have I been just lucky so far? I never had any problem with carbonation in bottles, neither with regular yeasts nor any of the kveiks I used so far... My problem from time to time is the contrary, over carbonation e bit even if I religiously follow Brewfather carbonation sugar weights prescriptions. If I ever experience such a problem, now I already have the solution.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew For sure I will consider it as an advise from a very well experimented master brewer. Thank you again for sharing your experience. This is tremendously appreciated.
I was speculating that this might be why my hydromel wasn't showing any activity. The Hornindal I used dropped like a rock after cold crashing (wanted the dry hops to fall). Just tossed in some EC-1118 I have in the fridge from a previous mead, so that should take care of that.
Yes, the flocculation is the issue. Just be careful in using yeast that is very different in attenuation to what you used to carbonate and all will be on track.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew It fermented to .998 at 5.6% abv, so it's a complete non-issue in this case! But yeah, EC-1118 could be dangerous if it hadn't gone fully dry.
David Heath Homebrew I had some bottle beers recently that were quite flat - not Kveik yeast but another high floc yeast, so I reckon that was the problem.
Hey David, great video as always! I've bottled a few beers on Kveik in the past, some carbonated well other didn't! I've a new batch bottled and until now didn't really know much about how Kveik works when it comes to bottling conditioning side of things, so this video has put me in the right direction. I just sampled one of those Kveik beers and its flat after a week conditioning - if I'd known about added another yeast I would have done that. Current room temp is approx 20C - would you recommend giving each bottle a soft shake and increasing the heat in the room to activate the Kviek? Cheers, Glen
Hey! Nice to hear from you Glen. If you have to bottle kveik then use plastic bottles rather than glass. Kveik will still floc aggressively but it will not stick to plastic like it does glass. Shaking the bottles is unlikely to help but temperature could. If you have an airing cupboard then this works better or a heated floor.
Omegas hornindal kveik seems to work for bottle conditioning fine. Going to try dry voss kveik. I think voss maybe a higher flocculator so may need to use a second yeast for bottling with the voss. I love the hornindal and hope it become available in dry form. My number one favorite yeast is french saison yeast but enjoy kveik for my neipas
Yes that will work, just be aware that this will eat more sugar than your original yeast as it ferments very dry. So you will need to be careful with the amount of priming sugar that you use.
You can get lucky with kveik, as I did. I cannot speak for Omegas Hornindal isolate, as I use the original farm multistrain Hornindal personally, which certainly flocculates pretty hard. If you like the isolate then you are bound to love the full version I would think :)
Hi I’ve been using kviek yeast and I have found my bottles have been over carbonated using 2 carb drops I usually use usO5 that always works great but in summer I use kviek.
ok.....so use priming sugar but add a wee bit of another yeast for example some us-5 or something like that? i'm about to brew and ferment using the dried lutra....glad i saw this video
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ya i made a mistake and i used double of the dme i was supposed to but didn't add any yeast either....should this offset the carb process?? if not how can I fix it....or should I just hope for the best now that its bottled???
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I fermented with voss kveik..so I'm hoping it will drop through like an anvil lol would putting it outside to cool it help...I live in canada and its pretty chilly right now
I've heard you can't bottle with Philly Sour, but couldn't find any evidence as to anyone that has tried (all speculation, without any evidence to be seen)! So I left two bottles of my Philly Sour batch without additional conditioning yeast and they conditioned just fine!
Hey David! Thanks again for your lovely video and so helpful guides. So i have my american wheat beer sitting at 35c (with voss kveik) and i am about to bottle. Really nice to hear that cause my last kveik beer was not carbonared correctly and i was wondering why. One question though. All measurements show that i need 2.8 of dextrose per 330 ml bottle. Should i use 2 carbonation drops of 1.39g each? (Decided it was wiser this time to use carbonation drops)
Thank you. Sorry for the late reply, RUclips hid this from me until now. I would suggest following the instructions on the carbonation drop packet as usual.
Hi David I live in Mexico with limited equipment so kveik is perfect for me to be able to ferment in higher temperatures. I know there is no fixed answer for this, but what are your thoughts on the time for conditioning in the bottle with a kveik fermentation and another yeast added to the bottle?
Thanks for the video, did you also use dme to prime before capping? Seems like some of the other videos about brewing with kveik yeast, mention attenuation of hop aroma & hop taste when they review brewing with this yeast?
Right, kveik yeast is fast fermenter but, to fully achieve desired results, would be best ferment under pressure to carbonate it? Good advice video! I just bottled my first brew and now i can expect a flat beer...interesting. Now, i also thought i had 21 litres to bottle but it ended up on 16 litres. I added sugar for 21 litres though? Will it carbonate, explode or nothing? 😞
Thanks David. You can certainly part carbonate using fermentation under pressure, depends on your set up. Mostly I keg my beers and anything spare gets bottled. I also bottle from the keg, which makes things nice and easy also.
I'm doing mangrove jacks kveik ipa and wondered why it supplied two packs of voss kveik, the instructions are so vague but maybe i should use the 2nd pack for bottle conditioning.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for the advice david, i stopped brewing because of temperature then realised I had a kveik kit to do but never used it before.
How did it work out for you? I would try inverting the bottles for the first 3 days (this was standard back in the day), before doing the fresh yeast technique.....just to see. Your beer should still clear up fine.
Hi Dave. Could co-fermentation also work? I have this idea of using Dry Kveik (MJ or Lalle) with a more regular flocculating strain (maybe US-05 or Windsor). Would that work, or would the Kveik pull everything down (including the second strain) in it's flocculation phase?
Ha! I was wondering why my raspberry sour made with your Philly Sour recipe didn't carbonate quite so much as my other beers. It was still fine, but it was a little surprising. I was wondering if simply tipping the bottles upside down each day during carbonation might help activate the yeast?
I have just bottled after brewing your London porter with kveik. Then I saw this video.... So I didn't add any additional yeast to the bottles. If they don't carbonate in a couple of weeks could I open them, drop in some yeast and re-cap them?
Bottled a double batch with Oslo kveik a few days ago and I have no carbonation so far. I tried to swearl up the bottles today and ramp up the temperature from 30 to 35 to see if it helps. Du you recon it will work or am I screwed? Will it be too late to open the bottles and add a bit of CBC-1? Shame because the beer is delicious and it would be a shame to throw it away.
Isn't there a possibility that the bottling yeast will start munching the left over sugars of the beer? Like exampe if your final gravity would be like 1.010 or something similar? Which then would lead to possible bottle bombs.
Hi David. I followed your advice on your pineapple mango raw IPA recipe. When bottling I put sugar into the bottles and one-two drops of kveik that I had harvested (bottom trub) while changing the fermenter. How long do you think will the carbonation take with kveik?
Hi, Kveik can be quite unreliable for bottle carbonation. Assuming you have them at a high enough temperature then 3-4 days if it doesn't flocculate hard.
Great video! Quick question I am fermenting at 34c and I think it will be around 20 where the bottles will be stored. Should I use yeast to carbonate like in the video, and what if the summer brings the temperature up even more? Thanks!
To carbonate my kveik fermenter beer I just need to put in a few grains of the cbc1 to the bottle and that will do the trick? Do I have to measure or can I just do as you do in the video for 33cl bottles. Thank you!
I am a big fan of you and during the years I learned a lot from you but this video must be upgraded.... I was expecting to dissolve a specific amount of yeast vs the total volume of beer to be bottled . How to proceed with 0,33 L bottles ( 20 L = 60+ bottles )??
Great to hear thank you. The trouble is this will vary depending on the volume that you brew , the abv present and the yeast you use but I can elaborate more. Say,for ,example, you fermented a beer with kveik and then wanted to use US05 for bottle carbonation. Use the same amount for the bottle carbonation that you would have done for regular fermentation. Then divide this by your bottles and then you will have the precision amount. Personally I do not do this. I simply add the small amount that you saw on the video and it works, hence why I presented it this simply....because that is all that is needed for regular beers. :) It does not need to be precise.
David Heath Homebrew thanks for your quick reply . Lets suppose that 5 gallons is the standard unit measure for HB...pouring 11 g of yeast in 40 to 60 bottles its nano-molecular tehnology 😂😂😂 .What about dissolving the yeast in the FV before bottling?The end result will be more consistent and carbonation will be almost equal in all bottles. My personal experience with full yeast package for carbonation of 5 gallons its negative ; I got 60 bomb bottles ending up in the trash been. As far as I learnt from you , the FG for NEIPA w Kveik is quite high = lot of tri- and poli- carbs = higher risk for bomb bottles...
You certainly can try adding the secondary yeast in this way. I've had pretty mixed results though, so it's hard to recommend. I add to each bottle and have developed a feel for how much to add. I cannot see this being an issue for others either :)
Thanks for the video. And i was wondering why my voss bottles are always semi flat!! I have 2 questions tho. 1. I cant get my hands on any CBC-1 yeast because none sells it near me. Could i use something like Lalvin EC-1118 instead? 2. Could i override the extra pitch step if i could bottle carbonate at higher temperatures like 25-30 C? Or this will just create other problems?
Thank you. Here are some answers:- 1) Yes, though any yeast that has the alcohol tolerance will also work. EC-1118 has very high alcohol tolerance, so is ideal for stronger beers for bottle carbonation. 2) It is not just a question of temperature, its about the yeasts way of sticking tight to glass bottles.
Hi David, do you think it can also happen when using irish moss ? I do have some carbonation problem with irish moss + lallemand koln yeast. After a month, the beer is clear but has a very low carb level and a sugar taste. I suspect the moss but it can also be something else. Maybe time will get it right.
Hi David - I’m brewing with Philly Sour at the moment and had actually factored in that it might not be good for bottle conditioning (I’d come to this video for advice on something else...). However, are you suggesting that the Philly Sour won’t carb in the bottles at all, or that it will be it’s just not very good at it?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks David. If I add more yeast then, do I risk bottle bombs? Or would that be down to adding too much sugar in the bottle, rather that the amount of yeast in the bottles?
Hey, great video! I plan using kveik Voss on Mangrove Jack's pink grapefruit IPA and I have a question...because kveik will finish fermenting so fast (aprox. 3 days) when should I add the hops for dry hopping? I read online that it would be bad if I add them the same time with the yeast, but I also read that kveik goes down very fast in the fermenter and if i don't bottle it as soon as it stops fermenting there will be no yeast left in the bottle for secondary fermentation and carbonation...i really dont know what to do. Thanks!
Thank you. I suggest dry hopping when you are 5-10 points away from FG, which with kveik could occur within the first 24 hours if you are using a higher fermentation temp.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Just itching to try Kviek for its fast fermentation. Tried looking at your APA but can't get evergarden Kviek but i can get Voss, any suggestions for my first Voss Kviek brew?
I know that you say to be careful where one gets their recipes. Where is a reliable source for recipes? I am looking for a Juicy/New England IPA recipe. Also have you ever used or reviewed the 'CLAW HAMMER' brewing system?
Hi Larry. There are some good books out there with renowned recipes from good sources. I have covered Juicy IPA / NEIPA style in various videos. Plenty to choose from :)
Brew your own magazine has some good stuff. Anything that has John Palmer or Randy Moshers names on will be great also. Clawhammer is US only, I live in Norway. Sadly I cannot try it. Seems expensive though.
It might be just me but I am finding that I "MUST" rinse my bottles right after pouring. If I don't it seems a residue clings to the bottle sides. When I say right after I mean before I enjoy the beer poured. If I wait even a short while I have to wash the bottle compleaty as it won't rinse clean till i do I love this yeast but I finding it quite different to use, not all bad just different. Any thought?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Same day, by all means. I am speaking of a film on the sides of the bottle not just the bottom. Maybe I have just not noticed it with other yeasts.
ok so i use a preassure ferment and kveik yeast and 4g of sugar and end up fine. i think its cause i use preassure at 15 psi for about a week at 25c and help cancel out tje kveik issue
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Do you increase the pressure slightly during (pressure) fermentation to compensate for a drop in pressure due to the CO2 expanding in the head space of the bottle, to achieve the correct CO2/Vol rate, or is the expansion into the head space insignificant? Thank you for your effort and swift reply (as always 😁).
The problem here is two fold. Firstly yeast can only handle a certain amount of pressure. 10-12 PSI plays things safe but some can handle much more, you just do not know until you try. I have a post on my Facebook group that puts together people tests. The second issue is temperature. At the higher temps you will need a lot of pressure to carbonate. So really pressure fermentation is more about speed and removing esters than carbonation when looked at in general. Some yeast however, like US05 can handle a lot.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew that would make a good how-to video! I'd be interested in knowing how to do this myself. Fermenting under pressure followed by bottling is a lot cheaper than going with kegs, kegarator, etc., when starting out. Especially if you could do it directly from a Fermzilla or something of the sort.
One thing I noticed is that when you ferment at high temps (mid 30C), your residual CO2 levels are much lower vs. typical ale yeast fermented at 20C. You need to increase your usual amount of priming sugar to counter the lower level of residual CO2 in solution.
Yes, temperature plays a key roll here, though a cold crash will assist later.
what is the % of additional sugar you add to get success ?
I stir up the trub when the beer is in the bottling bucket and suck some into a syringe. Usually one or two drops per bottle does the trick, and condition the bottles in a storage box over a heat mat. No need to pay for more yeast :)
Great, thanks for sharing :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew have to give credit to Tamas Matyus for that tbh! the man knows his way around Kveik.
@@TheGavranatar yes he for sure does :)
Solid video DH
Thank you, much appreciated :)
Nice to hear and see which methods you are using! I've also been submerging bottles in buckets of cleaner but instead I fill the whole bucket with cleaning solution and submerge the bottles empty. It is annoying to do but I doubt if the bottles will get a proper cleaning if they are submerged already full of water? Emptying and rinsing cleaned bottles also used to be my least favorite part of the whole brewing process but after purchasing a Double Blast bottle washer it got a whole lot easier. I also like to add the bottling/conditioning yeast while transferring beer to a bottling vessel, right after adding the priming sugar solution. I feel like it's more evenly distributed and less hassle than adding little bit in each bottle. Thanks for the video!
Thanks :) Keep in mind that the cleaner is part of the water and as soon as you bring in the bottles it will quick become part of the overall liquid. It works :)
Thanks, just as the issue starts arise, and I was looking for a solution, you have the solution ready.
Great timing :) Great :)
That all explains my last brew, second time using kveik (love it) but first time bottling after years of kegging. I thought I stuffed up the bulk prime but some of the month old beer that have been moved around have started to come good. Thanks legend!
Glad you found it useful Angus :)
Keep meaning to give Kveik a go, so this is definitely good to know for the few bottles that don’t make it into the corny! Cheers David. 🍻👍
You should :) Glad you found this useful :)
Brilliant David you have just explained to me why Philly Sour is not recommended for bottle conditioning!
About an hour ago I emailed Lallemand about this as I have a brew on with one packet of Philly Sour in it and I had started my brew before I read on their website that this yeast was not recommended for bottle conditioning.
I only bottle my beers at present so I will have to go through with it now and I can only hope there is some carbonation.
Cheers David👍👍👍
Thanks, I think I mentioned this is the Philly sour video also :) Maybe you will get lucky, fingers crossed:)
i have had no issue with the Voss lalbrew or Mangrove Jack variety. Probably due in part to my process of using granulated demara sugar (Aussie's call it Raw Sugar) to each bottle. Yes, this kveik flocculates very well, but perhaps better concentration of the granulated sugar at the bottom makes this foolproof. Bulk priming might not be quite as successful as my own process. I should also say, i cold crash my FV to 2 degrees Celcius before my bottling/kegging process and experience no issues with missing yeast as some are still in suspension. Bottle carbonation is complete in 4 days when cellar'd at 18-20c.
Hard to say Steven, though if a yeast flocs really hard then the sugar type will not so much matter. The question is how hard it flocs as this can vary.
Oh oh... I didn't used CBC-1 the last time... It is now on bottle for a week. I will check over a week if there is any carbonation. Thanks for this video!
Fingers crossed then Chris :)
Thanks for all the information, David! I was about to brew a Yule porter with kveik, and since I am a new brewer there are lots of things I don't know yet. Haven't got around to getting kegs yet so I use sugar and flasks.
Great, glad you found it useful 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks for the instruction and inspiration!
Thank you and cheers 🍻🍻🍻
I recently brewed with Lallemand kveik voss, didn't have any problem in the bottle.
I don't think it's as floculent as other strains.
Im waiting another week for my bottles to be carbed. I used same brand of kveik as you. Hope theres no issues
It can go like this but really it is still going to face the same problems sometimes. Voss does have the potential to flocculate very hard.
Fingers crossed then Ron :)
I don't think it' flocks well at all. Not a huge deal but just my observations.
I have noticed that some isolates flocc less than the farm multi strain versions.
Have I been just lucky so far? I never had any problem with carbonation in bottles, neither with regular yeasts nor any of the kveiks I used so far... My problem from time to time is the contrary, over carbonation e bit even if I religiously follow Brewfather carbonation sugar weights prescriptions. If I ever experience such a problem, now I already have the solution.
Yannick Simard I was lucky for a while also but now I do this for every one that I bottle that is Kveik fermented, to be sure.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew For sure I will consider it as an advise from a very well experimented master brewer. Thank you again for sharing your experience. This is tremendously appreciated.
Thanks Yannick :)
I was speculating that this might be why my hydromel wasn't showing any activity. The Hornindal I used dropped like a rock after cold crashing (wanted the dry hops to fall). Just tossed in some EC-1118 I have in the fridge from a previous mead, so that should take care of that.
Yes, the flocculation is the issue. Just be careful in using yeast that is very different in attenuation to what you used to carbonate and all will be on track.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew It fermented to .998 at 5.6% abv, so it's a complete non-issue in this case! But yeah, EC-1118 could be dangerous if it hadn't gone fully dry.
Ok nice :)
Thats why I love bottling from the keg instead. :)
I agree totally, though not every home brewer starts this way :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew 👍🍻
Thx David, good advice!
Many thanks Ken :)
David Heath Homebrew I had some bottle beers recently that were quite flat - not Kveik yeast but another high floc yeast, so I reckon that was the problem.
Yes, other yeast types suffer this also.
Hey David, great video as always! I've bottled a few beers on Kveik in the past, some carbonated well other didn't! I've a new batch bottled and until now didn't really know much about how Kveik works when it comes to bottling conditioning side of things, so this video has put me in the right direction. I just sampled one of those Kveik beers and its flat after a week conditioning - if I'd known about added another yeast I would have done that. Current room temp is approx 20C - would you recommend giving each bottle a soft shake and increasing the heat in the room to activate the Kviek? Cheers, Glen
Hey! Nice to hear from you Glen. If you have to bottle kveik then use plastic bottles rather than glass. Kveik will still floc aggressively but it will not stick to plastic like it does glass. Shaking the bottles is unlikely to help but temperature could. If you have an airing cupboard then this works better or a heated floor.
Omegas hornindal kveik seems to work for bottle conditioning fine. Going to try dry voss kveik. I think voss maybe a higher flocculator so may need to use a second yeast for bottling with the voss. I love the hornindal and hope it become available in dry form. My number one favorite yeast is french saison yeast but enjoy kveik for my neipas
My Hornindal dropped straight to the bottom. No activity in the bottles. I just tossed in some EC-1118, and hopefully that will take care of it.
Yes that will work, just be aware that this will eat more sugar than your original yeast as it ferments very dry. So you will need to be careful with the amount of priming sugar that you use.
You can get lucky with kveik, as I did. I cannot speak for Omegas Hornindal isolate, as I use the original farm multistrain Hornindal personally, which certainly flocculates pretty hard. If you like the isolate then you are bound to love the full version I would think :)
Hi I’ve been using kviek yeast and I have found my bottles have been over carbonated using 2 carb drops I usually use usO5 that always works great but in summer I use kviek.
It can certainly go this way but it is unreliable.
ok.....so use priming sugar but add a wee bit of another yeast for example some us-5 or something like that? i'm about to brew and ferment using the dried lutra....glad i saw this video
Yes, exactly. Sure does secure things :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ya i made a mistake and i used double of the dme i was supposed to but didn't add any yeast either....should this offset the carb process?? if not how can I fix it....or should I just hope for the best now that its bottled???
This could result in overcarbonated beer and possibly bottles under too much pressure. This could be dangerous, be careful.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I fermented with voss kveik..so I'm hoping it will drop through like an anvil lol would putting it outside to cool it help...I live in canada and its pretty chilly right now
Fingers crossed :)
I've heard you can't bottle with Philly Sour, but couldn't find any evidence as to anyone that has tried (all speculation, without any evidence to be seen)! So I left two bottles of my Philly Sour batch without additional conditioning yeast and they conditioned just fine!
Its not that you cannot. It is more that it can be unreliable, just like kveik.
Hey David! Thanks again for your lovely video and so helpful guides. So i have my american wheat beer sitting at 35c (with voss kveik) and i am about to bottle. Really nice to hear that cause my last kveik beer was not carbonared correctly and i was wondering why. One question though. All measurements show that i need 2.8 of dextrose per 330 ml bottle. Should i use 2 carbonation drops of 1.39g each? (Decided it was wiser this time to use carbonation drops)
Thank you. Sorry for the late reply, RUclips hid this from me until now. I would suggest following the instructions on the carbonation drop packet as usual.
Hi David another top video thanks do you add sugar aswell when bottling with the different yeast?
Cheers Gary. Yes, you will need a sugar add.
Hi David I live in Mexico with limited equipment so kveik is perfect for me to be able to ferment in higher temperatures. I know there is no fixed answer for this, but what are your thoughts on the time for conditioning in the bottle with a kveik fermentation and another yeast added to the bottle?
Hi Jim. I find that most beers are ready in 1-3 weeks in prime state. Stronger beers take 4-8 weeks usually. Hope this helps:)
Thanks for the video, did you also use dme to prime before capping? Seems like some of the other videos about brewing with kveik yeast, mention attenuation of hop aroma & hop taste when they review brewing with this yeast?
No, I simply use simple sugar. It works :)
Lallemand recommends that you rehydrate the yeast and prime the beer whenusing CBC1 ... you dont in this video? I agree that simple is better.
Ive never used it :) I have some to try though. I usually use US05 for this.
Right, kveik yeast is fast fermenter but, to fully achieve desired results, would be best ferment under pressure to carbonate it?
Good advice video! I just bottled my first brew and now i can expect a flat beer...interesting.
Now, i also thought i had 21 litres to bottle but it ended up on 16 litres. I added sugar for 21 litres though? Will it carbonate, explode or nothing? 😞
Thanks David. You can certainly part carbonate using fermentation under pressure, depends on your set up. Mostly I keg my beers and anything spare gets bottled. I also bottle from the keg, which makes things nice and easy also.
I'm doing mangrove jacks kveik ipa and wondered why it supplied two packs of voss kveik, the instructions are so vague but maybe i should use the 2nd pack for bottle conditioning.
I would use a regular type of yeast for bottle conditioning to be on the safe side.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for the advice david, i stopped brewing because of temperature then realised I had a kveik kit to do but never used it before.
I hope it goes well for you 🍻🍻
How did it work out for you? I would try inverting the bottles for the first 3 days (this was standard back in the day), before doing the fresh yeast technique.....just to see. Your beer should still clear up fine.
@@theghostofsw6276 it was fine, cleared up and carbonated with no extra action other than one carbonation drop per bottle.
Hi Dave. Could co-fermentation also work? I have this idea of using Dry Kveik (MJ or Lalle) with a more regular flocculating strain (maybe US-05 or Windsor). Would that work, or would the Kveik pull everything down (including the second strain) in it's flocculation phase?
Hi Steve, ive not bottled in a long time, I just keg beer, so I have not tested this.
Ha! I was wondering why my raspberry sour made with your Philly Sour recipe didn't carbonate quite so much as my other beers. It was still fine, but it was a little surprising. I was wondering if simply tipping the bottles upside down each day during carbonation might help activate the yeast?
Some gentle bottle movement could help.
I have just bottled after brewing your London porter with kveik. Then I saw this video.... So I didn't add any additional yeast to the bottles. If they don't carbonate in a couple of weeks could I open them, drop in some yeast and re-cap them?
It might well be ok Neale, its just unreliable. Yes, as long as you are very careful :)
Bottled a double batch with Oslo kveik a few days ago and I have no carbonation so far. I tried to swearl up the bottles today and ramp up the temperature from 30 to 35 to see if it helps. Du you recon it will work or am I screwed? Will it be too late to open the bottles and add a bit of CBC-1? Shame because the beer is delicious and it would be a shame to throw it away.
I would give it more time. This could work soon. If not then adding some CBC-1 will fix it.
Isn't there a possibility that the bottling yeast will start munching the left over sugars of the beer? Like exampe if your final gravity would be like 1.010 or something similar? Which then would lead to possible bottle bombs.
Kveik tends to have high attenuation. With that in mind, I wouldn't expect this to be an issue, as long as you don't over prime.
You would certainly want to check that your chosen bottling yeast is not very different.
I've not had any issues personally:)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Would US-05 be a good substitute for some Oslo?
Hmm not quite but it will work well enough I think :)
I add my beer and priming sugar to a bottling bucket...can I just add the yeast to my bottling bucket? And how many packets for a 21litre batch
You can do, I just find this more reliable usually. Depends on the yeast you use and the strength of the beer but on average one sachet.
Hi David. I followed your advice on your pineapple mango raw IPA recipe. When bottling I put sugar into the bottles and one-two drops of kveik that I had harvested (bottom trub) while changing the fermenter. How long do you think will the carbonation take with kveik?
Hi, Kveik can be quite unreliable for bottle carbonation. Assuming you have them at a high enough temperature then 3-4 days if it doesn't flocculate hard.
Another question: If I add US-05 to carbonate, will it take longer time to carbonate? Like 2 weeks bottle conditioning?
Sure :) Its best to allow 2 weeks but with US05 it could be done in half that time :)
Here exactly to find out how much CBC-1 to add and cracked up at how simple.
Sure is easy Sean :)
How did you know I was bottling my first batch of kveik today? Uncanny!
Haha, good timing :) Glad you found it useful :)
hi david. do you know if beer that has been fermented with lallemand voss kveik also needs additional yeast for bottle conditioning? cheers!
I would recommend it. Check this video out for the full details:- ruclips.net/video/M93VE5fk94A/видео.html
Great video! Quick question I am fermenting at 34c and I think it will be around 20 where the bottles will be stored. Should I use yeast to carbonate like in the video, and what if the summer brings the temperature up even more? Thanks!
Thank you. Best to cover yourself for the lower temps I would say. Should be done in 1-2 weeks
To carbonate my kveik fermenter beer I just need to put in a few grains of the cbc1 to the bottle and that will do the trick? Do I have to measure or can I just do as you do in the video for 33cl bottles. Thank you!
I don't measure personally, I just go by sight as shown in the video :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks, when using this yeast (CBC-1), do I have to use priming sugar also or does this yeast work around that?
You will need priming sugar as usual :)
I am a big fan of you and during the years I learned a lot from you but this video must be upgraded....
I was expecting to dissolve a specific amount of yeast vs the total volume of beer to be bottled .
How to proceed with 0,33 L bottles ( 20 L = 60+ bottles )??
Great to hear thank you. The trouble is this will vary depending on the volume that you brew , the abv present and the yeast you use but I can elaborate more. Say,for ,example, you fermented a beer with kveik and then wanted to use US05 for bottle carbonation. Use the same amount for the bottle carbonation that you would have done for regular fermentation. Then divide this by your bottles and then you will have the precision amount. Personally I do not do this. I simply add the small amount that you saw on the video and it works, hence why I presented it this simply....because that is all that is needed for regular beers. :) It does not need to be precise.
David Heath Homebrew thanks for your quick reply .
Lets suppose that 5 gallons is the standard unit measure for HB...pouring 11 g of yeast in 40 to 60 bottles its nano-molecular tehnology 😂😂😂 .What about dissolving the yeast in the FV before bottling?The end result will be more consistent and carbonation will be almost equal in all bottles.
My personal experience with full yeast package for carbonation of 5 gallons its negative ; I got 60 bomb bottles ending up in the trash been.
As far as I learnt from you , the FG for NEIPA w Kveik is quite high = lot of tri- and poli- carbs = higher risk for bomb bottles...
You certainly can try adding the secondary yeast in this way. I've had pretty mixed results though, so it's hard to recommend. I add to each bottle and have developed a feel for how much to add. I cannot see this being an issue for others either :)
Thanks for the video. And i was wondering why my voss bottles are always semi flat!!
I have 2 questions tho.
1. I cant get my hands on any CBC-1 yeast because none sells it near me. Could i use something like Lalvin EC-1118 instead?
2. Could i override the extra pitch step if i could bottle carbonate at higher temperatures like 25-30 C? Or this will just create other problems?
Thank you.
Here are some answers:-
1) Yes, though any yeast that has the alcohol tolerance will also work. EC-1118 has very high alcohol tolerance, so is ideal for stronger beers for bottle carbonation.
2) It is not just a question of temperature, its about the yeasts way of sticking tight to glass bottles.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I see. Thank you very much for the quick reply :)
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, do you think it can also happen when using irish moss ?
I do have some carbonation problem with irish moss + lallemand koln yeast. After a month, the beer is clear but has a very low carb level and a sugar taste. I suspect the moss but it can also be something else. Maybe time will get it right.
I think that this is probably more about yeast health that anything else.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the answer ! I'll start using yeast nutrients, hoping the problem doesn't reproduce.
No problem, I hope this works out for you now.
Hi David - I’m brewing with Philly Sour at the moment and had actually factored in that it might not be good for bottle conditioning (I’d come to this video for advice on something else...). However, are you suggesting that the Philly Sour won’t carb in the bottles at all, or that it will be it’s just not very good at it?
Hi Tristan, I think it is more of a case that results are unreliable. So it could work but it could also not work.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks David. If I add more yeast then, do I risk bottle bombs? Or would that be down to adding too much sugar in the bottle, rather that the amount of yeast in the bottles?
Too much sugar would be the problem :)
Hey, great video! I plan using kveik Voss on Mangrove Jack's pink grapefruit IPA and I have a question...because kveik will finish fermenting so fast (aprox. 3 days) when should I add the hops for dry hopping? I read online that it would be bad if I add them the same time with the yeast, but I also read that kveik goes down very fast in the fermenter and if i don't bottle it as soon as it stops fermenting there will be no yeast left in the bottle for secondary fermentation and carbonation...i really dont know what to do. Thanks!
Thank you. I suggest dry hopping when you are 5-10 points away from FG, which with kveik could occur within the first 24 hours if you are using a higher fermentation temp.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew alright, thank you! Im gona ferment in my livingroom where the temperature is constant 72 farenheit (23 celsius)
Great. Probably dry hop day 2 then.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew cool, thank you very much, have a great day!
Cheers and thank you 🍻🍻🍻
Handy to know! Would you use Kviek for an Oktoberfest Marzen beer?
Good :) You can but then it's going to be a hybrid style.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Just itching to try Kviek for its fast fermentation. Tried looking at your APA but can't get evergarden Kviek but i can get Voss, any suggestions for my first Voss Kviek brew?
Go for it, you will not look back :) voss will work nicely with the APA :)
I know that you say to be careful where one gets their recipes. Where is a reliable source for recipes? I am looking for a Juicy/New England IPA recipe. Also have you ever used or reviewed the 'CLAW HAMMER' brewing system?
Hi Larry. There are some good books out there with renowned recipes from good sources. I have covered Juicy IPA / NEIPA style in various videos. Plenty to choose from :)
David Heath Homebrew what sources did you recommend? Have you tried the ClawHammer?
Brew your own magazine has some good stuff. Anything that has John Palmer or Randy Moshers names on will be great also. Clawhammer is US only, I live in Norway. Sadly I cannot try it. Seems expensive though.
It might be just me but I am finding that I "MUST" rinse my bottles right after pouring. If I don't it seems a residue clings to the bottle sides. When I say right after I mean before I enjoy the beer poured. If I wait even a short while I have to wash the bottle compleaty as it won't rinse clean till i do I love this yeast but I finding it quite different to use, not all bad just different. Any thought?
I wash out all bottles same day, no matter which yeast I used. The last thing you want is dried yeast in the bottle.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Same day, by all means. I am speaking of a film on the sides of the bottle not just the bottom. Maybe I have just not noticed it with other yeasts.
Hmm I've not noticed this myself. Are you using isolates or full farm Kveik? I most use the farm versions and Lallemand dry Voss.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I've just used the Lallermand Dry Voss. 5.5g dry pitch to 5 gal wort. Corn sugar to batch prime.
Ok, hope it goes well for you.
Could an old fashioned bottle shake 1/2 way through not work?
Not really no :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew oh no! So I'm gonna have to buy a keg!
ok so i use a preassure ferment and kveik yeast and 4g of sugar and end up fine. i think its cause i use preassure at 15 psi for about a week at 25c and help cancel out tje kveik issue
It can work, it is just that it can also fail. You will not build up much pressure at 25C with 15 PSI.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew luckely for me sofar it has worked but i will keep this in my for furthur kveik use thanks
@@DavidHeathHomebrew can u counter the co2 with kveik by using more sugar?
Great, yes it was the same for me to start with :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew can adding more suger fix it?
Could I not just grab a teaspoon of yeast from the fermenter and add it to the bottling bucket? obviously mixing it in slowly.
That is not going to solve the issue, as explained in this video sadly.
Hi David
Can beer that has been carbonated through pressure fermentation be bottled without the need for any additional priming sugar or yeast?
Yes, it sure can. I bottle from a keg quite often personally. It's nice to not have the yeast in the bottle :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Do you increase the pressure slightly during (pressure) fermentation to compensate for a drop in pressure due to the CO2 expanding in the head space of the bottle, to achieve the correct CO2/Vol rate, or is the expansion into the head space insignificant?
Thank you for your effort and swift reply (as always 😁).
@@DavidHeathHomebrew and it must simplify things cause you don't have to worry about getting the priming sugar ratios correct...
The problem here is two fold. Firstly yeast can only handle a certain amount of pressure. 10-12 PSI plays things safe but some can handle much more, you just do not know until you try. I have a post on my Facebook group that puts together people tests. The second issue is temperature. At the higher temps you will need a lot of pressure to carbonate. So really pressure fermentation is more about speed and removing esters than carbonation when looked at in general. Some yeast however, like US05 can handle a lot.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew that would make a good how-to video! I'd be interested in knowing how to do this myself. Fermenting under pressure followed by bottling is a lot cheaper than going with kegs, kegarator, etc., when starting out. Especially if you could do it directly from a Fermzilla or something of the sort.
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