I just recently did this conversion for a Dana 27 in a CJ-5. You should cut a slight chamfer after you mill the holes inside the knuckle because otherwise the back of the bolt heads will not fully contact the newly machined surface. That’s due to the fact that the threads stop a tiny amount short if you examine them closely. It’s not much but it’s enough to prevent solid contact between the surfaces
Great video thanks! I tried this application on my 66 CJ5, Dana 27. I have new knuckles from Kaiser Willys. On the driver side, the heads of the 3/8"-24 button head screws are impacting the "ear" of the axle sphere at the far end of the steering swing. Do you have any suggestions about what to do about that?
I ran into this also and I’m going to slightly grind the ears at the contact point. It only needs a small amount removed and shouldn’t affect the strength. May also hit the bolt head in question with a die-grinder to provide some clearance
That's a nice mod, David. If there is already a flat surface for the button heads, would you still need to counter bore for them? Couldn't a guy just put a dab of Permatek 2 under the bolt head to get a leak free seal? (I don't have a drill press)
Tom Fitch I’d recommend still using the counter bore to get a flat surface. I wouldn’t be so worried about sealing as I would any movement of the bottom heads. They also need to seat further into the casting to prevent them from contacting the ball ends of the housing at full steering lock. Some folks do have to lightly grind the ball on the housing if they have Rzeppa axles because they can turn more than standard bendix or Spicer joints.
I just recently did this conversion for a Dana 27 in a CJ-5. You should cut a slight chamfer after you mill the holes inside the knuckle because otherwise the back of the bolt heads will not fully contact the newly machined surface. That’s due to the fact that the threads stop a tiny amount short if you examine them closely. It’s not much but it’s enough to prevent solid contact between the surfaces
Great video thanks! I tried this application on my 66 CJ5, Dana 27. I have new knuckles from Kaiser Willys. On the driver side, the heads of the 3/8"-24 button head screws are impacting the "ear" of the axle sphere at the far end of the steering swing. Do you have any suggestions about what to do about that?
My Cj5 also have this same situation...
I ran into this also and I’m going to slightly grind the ears at the contact point. It only needs a small amount removed and shouldn’t affect the strength. May also hit the bolt head in question with a die-grinder to provide some clearance
That's a nice mod, David. If there is already a flat surface for the button heads, would you still need to counter bore for them? Couldn't a guy just put a dab of Permatek 2 under the bolt head to get a leak free seal? (I don't have a drill press)
Tom Fitch I’d recommend still using the counter bore to get a flat surface. I wouldn’t be so worried about sealing as I would any movement of the bottom heads. They also need to seat further into the casting to prevent them from contacting the ball ends of the housing at full steering lock. Some folks do have to lightly grind the ball on the housing if they have Rzeppa axles because they can turn more than standard bendix or Spicer joints.
what do you use for the nuts?