Good vid. Yes the ‘jump between ratios’ is most evident (for me) when I’m spinning too fast so change up and suddenly I’m panting and having to reduce my cadence. For me that’s typically in the lower ratios (it’s rare I go into top gear) … I’m on a cassette with 34t bottom gear and 11sp top (36t and 52t chainrings)
Thanks for taking the time to comment. In although I specifically refer to 1X gears in this video, the principles do apply to 2X. Indeed, in the past I have produced videos about gear ratios, here is one you might be interested in: ruclips.net/video/nmU7TgozUI0/видео.htmlsi=R-kg1AYLTEIjdcTd A lot depends on whether your cadence sensitive and whether you can be bothered to go to a non-standard cassette. Personally, I liked fiddle and I like to take control of my gear ratios, hence the video.
@@maxpetification > that is your prerogative. However, it's not my priority. The theme of the video was about reducing the jumps between the gears, not the size of the gears. If you're not bothered about the size of the jumps, ignore the video. In general though, apart from a small increasing weight, you would be better off getting a larger chainwheel rather than smaller sprockets.
@@akaraikiriakatsuki3157 > I thought I explained, it's to reduce the gear step between the two smallest sprockets. For me, I rarely use the 11 sprocket so its loss is not something I feel. For me, the greater benefit is in the narrower gear step. Of course, other people have to decide whether the suggestion will work for them. Here's a video where I give a bit more explanation and analysis: ruclips.net/video/zBLVPg2Lx1I/видео.htmlsi=eUZOLjQKaNevSpaW 🧁🎂🍰
@@FiveMinuteVelo For me, I am actually fairly often in that top-speed 11T sprocket. Honestly, I would like to have 9 tooth sprocket (like some of those e-thirteen cassettes have). Also, 10T tooth top gear is what I have on my hardtail which I use for XCM and XCO races. I have 34T chainring in the front, and I am thinking about replacing it with 36T when I get more into shape. Oh, and it is a carbon frame and 12-speed cassette, and no, I am not particularly stronger than the rest of the competition, it is something that I personally prefer, on the longer and not demanding descends, and especially on flat terrain.
@@IvanPrskalo > okay, I admit there's an issue that I didn't cover in the video. That issue is the size of the chainwheel. On my bike I have a 48 tooth front chain wheel. I must admit, if you have a smaller chain wheel you will lose a lot on the top end, however, it doesn't change the large steps in the gears which is primarily what i was trying to eliminate. For a different specific setup I would have to do the analysis. For me, that is the point, doing the analysis rather than just accepting what the manufacturers give me. If it doesn't bother you, ignore the video.
@@FiveMinuteVelo that is completely different system with 48T in the front, and very likely different type of bike. I get the logic of your video and I agree with it, especially if it applies to road bikes. I am also quite often dissatisfied with the direction in which (MTB) industry is heading. I don't need 11, 12 or now even 13 choices on the same cassette in the back. When I did conversion from 3x10 to 1x10 I went with 32T chainwheel and 11-46 10speed cassette. Bike served me very well, even better than it was on default setup. That's why I am proponent of smaller number of gears, but I want them to actually mean something. I think that 8 or 9 speed cassettes would be better (weight and simplicity wise) - provided that they will probably have big gaps between them and you would need to wisely choose proper gear depending on the situation of terrain.
HG and Microspline are the worst crap ever… i cant remember hiw many trashed HG/Microspline freehubs i’ve seen in the last year. Hg: each single sprocket/cog will bite into the soft aluminium body nice design shimano…. Micro: smallest sprocket is held together by the second smallest one and this little fella usually has less than 3 mm of contact point because the faulty design in the freehubbodies… splendid for ebikes and heavy riders The little jump wont do nothing to your drivetrain if you know how to gear up or down.
Thank you for taking the time to comment, it's great to know how other people think. I've used HG for many years and had very few problems. I must admit, I normally use freewheel bodies that are made of steel so the spline 'bite' problem has not been a problem for me. I have had a few aluminium freewheel bodies and although they have suffered a bit of 'bite' it's never really been a problem. I've never used Microspline, and I must admit from an engineering point of view it has limitations (I'm being kind), I'm not sure how it would work in practise though. SRAM XG and XGR looks well designed but I hate that you cannot reconfigure the cassettes. This may not be a problem if you're not fussy about your gear ratios. I'm not sure what the final comment is. Some people don't really care about cadence in which case, ignore my suggestions. However, some people, like me, are cadence sensitive and the large jumps do matter, particularly on a road bike. He has a video where I give further explanation:ruclips.net/video/zBLVPg2Lx1I/видео.htmlsi=eUZOLjQKaNevSpaW 🍰🎂🧁
Good vid. Yes the ‘jump between ratios’ is most evident (for me) when I’m spinning too fast so change up and suddenly I’m panting and having to reduce my cadence. For me that’s typically in the lower ratios (it’s rare I go into top gear) … I’m on a cassette with 34t bottom gear and 11sp top (36t and 52t chainrings)
Thanks for taking the time to comment. In although I specifically refer to 1X gears in this video, the principles do apply to 2X. Indeed, in the past I have produced videos about gear ratios, here is one you might be interested in: ruclips.net/video/nmU7TgozUI0/видео.htmlsi=R-kg1AYLTEIjdcTd
A lot depends on whether your cadence sensitive and whether you can be bothered to go to a non-standard cassette. Personally, I liked fiddle and I like to take control of my gear ratios, hence the video.
Nice one
Thank you 🧁🎂🍰.
I'd rather have 10t sprocket than the 11t
@@maxpetification > that is your prerogative. However, it's not my priority. The theme of the video was about reducing the jumps between the gears, not the size of the gears. If you're not bothered about the size of the jumps, ignore the video. In general though, apart from a small increasing weight, you would be better off getting a larger chainwheel rather than smaller sprockets.
I'll be fine with 14 terry 😂
@@simonleeofficial > actually I'm working on a 14-42 11speed 1x (48t chainring).
why would you want to reduce your theoretical top speed by making the small cog a bit bigger?
@@akaraikiriakatsuki3157 > I thought I explained, it's to reduce the gear step between the two smallest sprockets.
For me, I rarely use the 11 sprocket so its loss is not something I feel. For me, the greater benefit is in the narrower gear step. Of course, other people have to decide whether the suggestion will work for them. Here's a video where I give a bit more explanation and analysis: ruclips.net/video/zBLVPg2Lx1I/видео.htmlsi=eUZOLjQKaNevSpaW
🧁🎂🍰
@@FiveMinuteVelo For me, I am actually fairly often in that top-speed 11T sprocket. Honestly, I would like to have 9 tooth sprocket (like some of those e-thirteen cassettes have). Also, 10T tooth top gear is what I have on my hardtail which I use for XCM and XCO races. I have 34T chainring in the front, and I am thinking about replacing it with 36T when I get more into shape. Oh, and it is a carbon frame and 12-speed cassette, and no, I am not particularly stronger than the rest of the competition, it is something that I personally prefer, on the longer and not demanding descends, and especially on flat terrain.
@@IvanPrskalo > okay, I admit there's an issue that I didn't cover in the video. That issue is the size of the chainwheel. On my bike I have a 48 tooth front chain wheel. I must admit, if you have a smaller chain wheel you will lose a lot on the top end, however, it doesn't change the large steps in the gears which is primarily what i was trying to eliminate. For a different specific setup I would have to do the analysis. For me, that is the point, doing the analysis rather than just accepting what the manufacturers give me. If it doesn't bother you, ignore the video.
@@FiveMinuteVelo that is completely different system with 48T in the front, and very likely different type of bike. I get the logic of your video and I agree with it, especially if it applies to road bikes. I am also quite often dissatisfied with the direction in which (MTB) industry is heading. I don't need 11, 12 or now even 13 choices on the same cassette in the back. When I did conversion from 3x10 to 1x10 I went with 32T chainwheel and 11-46 10speed cassette. Bike served me very well, even better than it was on default setup. That's why I am proponent of smaller number of gears, but I want them to actually mean something. I think that 8 or 9 speed cassettes would be better (weight and simplicity wise) - provided that they will probably have big gaps between them and you would need to wisely choose proper gear depending on the situation of terrain.
😊🍰🎂
Yum yum yum 🍰🎂🧁.
HG and Microspline are the worst crap ever… i cant remember hiw many trashed HG/Microspline freehubs i’ve seen in the last year.
Hg: each single sprocket/cog will bite into the soft aluminium body nice design shimano….
Micro: smallest sprocket is held together by the second smallest one and this little fella usually has less than 3 mm of contact point because the faulty design in the freehubbodies… splendid for ebikes and heavy riders
The little jump wont do nothing to your drivetrain if you know how to gear up or down.
Thank you for taking the time to comment, it's great to know how other people think.
I've used HG for many years and had very few problems. I must admit, I normally use freewheel bodies that are made of steel so the spline 'bite' problem has not been a problem for me. I have had a few aluminium freewheel bodies and although they have suffered a bit of 'bite' it's never really been a problem.
I've never used Microspline, and I must admit from an engineering point of view it has limitations (I'm being kind), I'm not sure how it would work in practise though.
SRAM XG and XGR looks well designed but I hate that you cannot reconfigure the cassettes. This may not be a problem if you're not fussy about your gear ratios.
I'm not sure what the final comment is. Some people don't really care about cadence in which case, ignore my suggestions. However, some people, like me, are cadence sensitive and the large jumps do matter, particularly on a road bike.
He has a video where I give further explanation:ruclips.net/video/zBLVPg2Lx1I/видео.htmlsi=eUZOLjQKaNevSpaW
🍰🎂🧁