nice video of showing the basics, only there are a couple of things to inprove on. 1 big thing is handeling the O2 clean parts use some nitrile gloves to prefent contemination of your hands there wil always be some sort of contemination on your hands even if you scrub them. but i need to say you got the basic proces under control evrything from this time forward is inprovement
Not a criticizing comment here just trying to understand the justification for blasting dirty air into a sterilized cylinder? Is this common practice for dive shops as a means of a quicker drying process? 2:29 using an off the shelf heat gun sitting on the shop floor sucking in all kinds of particle contaminants and blowing them all over the inside of the sterilized dive cylinder negating all the whole point of the prior cleaning process. Why not use an inductive hot plate with the tank neck upright with no valve installed so the moisture vapors are allowed to evaporate out the top of the cylinder? Instead of blowing dirty air inside the cylinder.
Thank you for the respectful comment. I'm anyways trying to improve my processes and feedback is a great way to get there. Here is my thought process and experience why I have been doing this method. And I have had the same concern you voiced. I no longer dry the tanks with the heat gun outside to minimize possible contamination, but I do still use the heat gun for drying just in a more clean environment. The reason for the forced heat is to rapidly dry the interior (especially with steel cylinders) to minimize flash rust, which I have seen prior to doing the heat drying process. This is also not an off the shelf heat gun (not to say you can't get it off the shelf) it has a temperature limiter to prevent getting the tank too hot which world also be bad. So I guess the primary reason is speed of drying. Once I start an o2 clean, I do not stop at any point in the process until finished. Takes generally about 2 hrs. Thanks again!
@@JoeLaposta thank you for your detailed response, this make good since. When I remarked about off the shelf heat gun my thought process was initially focused on a lack of a proper air filter. However your use of precision heat gun with a regulated temperature control is a good point. Also your reminder on the rust component makes sense why we need a faster method of drying the cylinders. Forced hot air dries much quicker than heating the cylinder with a hot plate. 👌🤙
Interesting. I thought it was just the dynamic o-rings that got lubed. What would the contamination look like with the Uber light? I imagine it would look like the leak detection fluid in some Freon air conditioners or engine oil systems. Nice video.
![Cleaning My Regulators {[Keeping It Simple]}](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TCfO_ZB-7VE/mqdefault.jpg)
Ha! I have a pony bottle with your sticker on it. I bought it from you on Facebook marketplace. Small world. LOL.
nice video of showing the basics, only there are a couple of things to inprove on. 1 big thing is handeling the O2 clean parts use some nitrile gloves to prefent contemination of your hands there wil always be some sort of contemination on your hands even if you scrub them. but i need to say you got the basic proces under control evrything from this time forward is inprovement
ps if you can vind a HEPA filter to put on the intake of the heatgun you have stopt 99.99%of the contamination .
Appreciate the feedback. I have considered using nitrile gloves to get the best level of clean throughout.
@@joesscuba no problem this work is kind of my job so if you want more feedback let me know
@@joesscuba no problem, this work is kind of my job so if you want or need any more feedback let me know
What size glass beads do you use?
Not a criticizing comment here just trying to understand the justification for blasting dirty air into a sterilized cylinder?
Is this common practice for dive shops as a means of a quicker drying process?
2:29 using an off the shelf heat gun sitting on the shop floor sucking in all kinds of particle contaminants and blowing them all over the inside of the sterilized dive cylinder negating all the whole point of the prior cleaning process.
Why not use an inductive hot plate with the tank neck upright with no valve installed so the moisture vapors are allowed to evaporate out the top of the cylinder? Instead of blowing dirty air inside the cylinder.
Thank you for the respectful comment. I'm anyways trying to improve my processes and feedback is a great way to get there.
Here is my thought process and experience why I have been doing this method. And I have had the same concern you voiced.
I no longer dry the tanks with the heat gun outside to minimize possible contamination, but I do still use the heat gun for drying just in a more clean environment.
The reason for the forced heat is to rapidly dry the interior (especially with steel cylinders) to minimize flash rust, which I have seen prior to doing the heat drying process. This is also not an off the shelf heat gun (not to say you can't get it off the shelf) it has a temperature limiter to prevent getting the tank too hot which world also be bad.
So I guess the primary reason is speed of drying. Once I start an o2 clean, I do not stop at any point in the process until finished. Takes generally about 2 hrs.
Thanks again!
@@JoeLaposta thank you for your detailed response, this make good since. When I remarked about off the shelf heat gun my thought process was initially focused on a lack of a proper air filter. However your use of precision heat gun with a regulated temperature control is a good point.
Also your reminder on the rust component makes sense why we need a faster method of drying the cylinders. Forced hot air dries much quicker than heating the cylinder with a hot plate. 👌🤙
Thank You Very Much for Your You tube Video
Interesting. I thought it was just the dynamic o-rings that got lubed. What would the contamination look like with the Uber light? I imagine it would look like the leak detection fluid in some Freon air conditioners or engine oil systems. Nice video.
You are right, you don't lube valve neck O ring, and you don't put lube on entire treads, just a little at first couple
Thank you for your efforts. Please I need the information and specifications of the hydro test pump and the suppliers for it. Thank you
I am not a Hydro facility, but here is a company you can order Hydro gear from.
www.hydro-test.com