You let me in on the information about the NOVA II several years ago. I put it on an old B/S 16 horse in a 1976 Montgomery Ward tractor that had not run in almost 10 years I am still using the tractor year around. That Nova II saved me HUNDREDS of dollars. I wanted to thank you again for that.
In my case it wasn't even the points or condenser that was the problem but a worn cam that pushed the points open was worn and would require some engine dismantling and parts replacement.
Hello Zippo! I have the 23 also, BFA and a starter generator. the solenoid coil was good but not wrkg contacts. I drilled out rivets, cleansed everything with emery cloth an spinnin wire brush. oil up an a new spring. bolted back together w four brass machine bolts an nuts. just bought an engine lift platform, or a back saver!. u have great vidz!
Nice to see that B&S $17 tester in action. That ground wire on the exhaust worries me ever since I burned a pocket off my best winter jacket on one of those Nelsons.
I wonder if the motor would catch sooner if the spark didn't have to jump the gap in the spark indicator. As the spark is jumping the spark plug gap and the indicator gap?
It did start sooner after I removed the spark tester, yes. Good Thought Bruce! This is a 23D that I rebuilt in similar fashion as your recent push mower engine build but I did bore the cylinder .010 over and installed a new piston and rings. It's been a few years and the engine last was started two years ago. It fired Right Up!! Cheers my Friend and Mrs. Friend! Sean~
got a 23D must have had engine work done. Compression is great but points plunger is loose in brass bushing nice to know nova 2 will work so ill pull the points and plug the oil leak🤘
no luck getting spark on my 23D but doesn't crank fast either. Wish it wasn't missing dang points plunger gasket retaining plate thing. I'll need to look around for a used part😑
Heya my Friend. Email me...You may just need a coil and I think I've got one or two kicking around that I can spare. They're an odd ball coil that the coil pack is replaceable on, but they're NLA. Cheers Buddy! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga no, coil's fine. I wanted to try a points eliminator since there were parts missing from points assembly mainly the gasket and gasket retainer for the plunger i know i have parts just a matter of finding them. P.S. I had sent you a coil before😅 I just want to get it running to sell to another guy whos also buying the no longer original b1 off of me got a 16hp running and squeezed under the hood someone had already modified frame before me so not so guilty addition😉
It doesn't have to be mounted, no. If the body was the ground, I would think it would only have a single terminal "+", and it would also limit it's usefulness in some applications that requires isolated grounded ignitions. Cheers Moe! Zip~
Brother Joe and Family! I hope y'all are hanging in there. Muggsie is a great guy. We've been buds for about 10 years now. I've rebuilt all his engines on his beautifully restored machines. So far he's restored two B-12's and a Big Ten. Love you Brother! Zip~
Sooo, your having to crank so long to build the field for the nova to collapse. How did it run under load? That's a magnetron module lol! I'd be interested if you have a high tension voltage meter like the Styhl dealers have to have what kind of voltage it is generating? I'm going to try it on my 233431-0024 1979 model engine. If it works then the flywheel recharge to run a transistor module is fully put to bed. The 23 and 32 cube cast irons were the chief authors of that line of thinking. In the day late 80's we had to send the flywheel to the Burleigh plant to get re charged, that plant is closed and Briggs no longer re charges flywheels. Sad where Briggs has ended up. I was a field rep from 1998-2009 and worked at a dealer as a tech for 6 years. I'm also MST, and Kohler Master Tech, so I do have my bona-fides. Good video! Stay safe
I don't have a means to check that level of voltage unfortunately. I have watched others who flip the Magnetron coils cylinder side out and took care of the need to reverse the polarity of the flywheel magnets, however, I have not tried this my self as of yet. I do have a 16hp on the engine stand waiting on a first start that I may try this on. It's an odd bird of a Cast Iron, so it should be interesting to show the differences from a standard as well as see if the old girl still has it in her to start. Be Safe also! Cheers!! Zip~
ZippoVarya The generator I have is a very old Dayton that self starts from the generator end. I keep a battery in a marine case with the quick connects on the cables. Plug up the quick connects and hit the old school push starter button and thump thump away it goes. The old school rope wrap starter never has a clutch or spring go bad. It ran 14 days straight in 2007 during an Ice storm and about 4 days running window units a couple summers ago after a tornado. Little sea foam in the tank that carbs passages are so big it almost never stops up. Great engines. When I was in Hong Kong about 20 years ago they were still using them in open style saipan taxi boats. They mount them on the tiller and have a counterweight aft of a booted ball seal. They were still making them in China then. The cast iron wasn't bothered by the salt water like aluminum blocks were.
@@p.johnson2021 It sounds like you're not only a Bona-Fied tech, you're also quite the worldly Gentleman! I enjoyed the story. I own an old Montgomery Ward "Airline" Charger that starts in the same manner as yours. It uses the generator as the starter. This little guy dates back to the late 1940'sm weighs in at around 70 lbs and was a "portable" 6 Volt charger mainly geared towards Farmers who needed a portable self contained battery charger for farming equipment. I've got an older video of the little guy in action. Just search Airline Charger on my channel and you should be able to find it. Cheers! Zip~
I am very familiar with snap on the coil version.......... There were 2 other kinds.... The Nova like you got and the Atom.......... I forgot which came out first , but they both worked fine.... Then Briggs came out with it in the coil, hence magnetron coils took over the scene........ Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!
I'm all about keeping an engine original, but many people just want their engines to run as easily and cheaply as possible. The Nova II and similar points eliminators save my customers and friends a lot of money. Sure, my pocket doesn't get fat, but if you know me, you know a Friendship is worth a ton more than money can buy. Cheers My Good Friend! Zip~
I’ve been using one on my 23D for about 8 years now. I do think I need to get mine rebuilt it’s never been touched. Do you rebuild them I live in Ohio about an hour from you.
I think other people are confusing other B&S 23 models with the model 23D that uses a different coil types than the 23D model. Models 23 and 23A use the Magnamatic style coil. You also have the 23C type of coil which may or may not be able to use the Nova system. The 23C model had the points under the flywheel like the later B&S engines, not on the side of the block like the earlier BIG B&S engines. Then you have the models 9, 14, and 19 and what they used and when. Then you have the BIG cast iron engines that came after the different 23 model engines. I have many BIG B&S engines, but have not taken the time to research each model yet.
Hey zippo any idea why simplicity designed there GT decks to rotate opposite of nearly every other mower/gt? It takes little effort to make the blades spin the other direction on them. Any ideas? Thanks
@@ZippoVarga It was just a curiosity more then anything. I did however once cobble a 48" JD deck onto my 7010 and just tweeked the (mule drive?) pulleys to allow me to reverse the deck drive belt...reason for that was the original deck was in very bad shape. That machine has since been turned purely into my blade tractor.. thanks for the response, always enjoy your vids
I think Bob Tiarks stated a while back that the S/G had to reach a certain RPM b4 the engines would catch. Arn't most of the B&S vertical engines "pointless" IE magnatrons.
The 23D was only used in 1964 in both the Simplicity and Allis-Chalmers garden tractors. Great question! To answer, it's what us collectors call the "Early B-10" because in 1966 and 1967, they reintroduced the B-10. Cheers! Zip~
Hey Brother! So, on my B-112, I found what I'm 99.999% sure is the original magnetron wire sticking out from the blower housing. Disconnected when someone swapped to an automotive coil ignition setup. With the engine running, I can hold the bare end of that wire. Should I be getting nailed by high voltage? There's like nothing there. If I hook it to the points, think it'd come to life from...Magic...? I have a Nova II waiting to be installed but it won't work for an automotive type setup an I haven't gotten one of those round 2 it's and swapped it back. If I can just wire it back up and get rid of the other trash though I'd have it done in a minute or so! Maybe pull back the blower housing, clean and re-gap the pickup? Is that possible on my tractor without removing the engine?
That's an engine out situation to clean and gap the coil Brother. But, connecting the Nova II to that wire and grounding the other terminal is a 2 minute process, then crank it over and check for spark. You won't get bit by that single strand solid core wire, it's the big end that'll bite you and only if connected to the points and condenser. Can you get to the old plug wire from the Magneto? If so, give it a shot! Most people swap in a battery coil because they think the magneto is bad, when in actuality, it's poorly adjusted or serviced points. Cheers! Zip~
The Model 19D has a compression release, so you need to spin the engine backward to obtain real compression numbers. It should be above 90. If lower, you may consider having the cylinder honed or bored and re-ringed. As for valve clearance, it's .007-.009 Intake and .017-.019 exhaust.
That's correct. If you use a 6V, which won't have a stamp on it saying what it is, you must also use a resistor. But with 12V coil that's stamped 12V, you're good to go. Zip~
![[DRAGON BALL LEGENDS REVEALS ＆ STUFF] LEGENDS FESTIVAL 2024 Special Edition Part 2](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/af0phKxitX8/mqdefault.jpg)
You let me in on the information about the NOVA II several years ago. I put it on an old B/S 16 horse in a 1976 Montgomery Ward tractor that had not run in almost 10 years I am still using the tractor year around. That Nova II saved me HUNDREDS of dollars. I wanted to thank you again for that.
Bruce, this is a great way to get around a problem that plagues points ignition engines and, it's a permanent fix! Cheers!! Zip~
In my case it wasn't even the points or condenser that was the problem but a worn cam that pushed the points open was worn and would require some engine dismantling and parts replacement.
She's alive, good info Zippo, thanks
Hello Zippo! I have the 23 also, BFA and a starter generator. the solenoid coil was good but not wrkg contacts. I drilled out rivets, cleansed everything with emery cloth an spinnin wire brush. oil up an a new spring. bolted back together w four brass machine bolts an nuts. just bought an engine lift platform, or a back saver!. u have great vidz!
Thanks Raymond! Sounds like a great fix! Zip~
Depends on the flywheel magnet polarity. And the Nova 2 module will not work with a flywheel that has more than 1 magnet.
Nice to see that B&S $17 tester in action. That ground wire on the exhaust worries me ever since I burned a pocket off my best winter jacket on one of those Nelsons.
I wonder if the motor would catch sooner if the spark didn't have to jump the gap in the spark indicator. As the spark is jumping the spark plug gap and the indicator gap?
It did start sooner after I removed the spark tester, yes. Good Thought Bruce! This is a 23D that I rebuilt in similar fashion as your recent push mower engine build but I did bore the cylinder .010 over and installed a new piston and rings. It's been a few years and the engine last was started two years ago. It fired Right Up!! Cheers my Friend and Mrs. Friend! Sean~
Ballast Resistors were quite common in the late '40s, Early '50s, when folks wanted to use 12VDC, for radios, and lights on vehicles.
got a 23D must have had engine work done. Compression is great but points plunger is loose in brass bushing nice to know nova 2 will work so ill pull the points and plug the oil leak🤘
no luck getting spark on my 23D but doesn't crank fast either. Wish it wasn't missing dang points plunger gasket retaining plate thing. I'll need to look around for a used part😑
Heya my Friend. Email me...You may just need a coil and I think I've got one or two kicking around that I can spare. They're an odd ball coil that the coil pack is replaceable on, but they're NLA. Cheers Buddy! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga no, coil's fine. I wanted to try a points eliminator since there were parts missing from points assembly mainly the gasket and gasket retainer for the plunger i know i have parts just a matter of finding them.
P.S. I had sent you a coil before😅
I just want to get it running to sell to another guy whos also buying the no longer original b1 off of me got a 16hp running and squeezed under the hood someone had already modified frame before me so not so guilty addition😉
That’s pretty nifty zippo cool stuff brother
I've always grounded the body of the Nova2. I thought the body had to be, but apparently not.
It doesn't have to be mounted, no. If the body was the ground, I would think it would only have a single terminal "+", and it would also limit it's usefulness in some applications that requires isolated grounded ignitions. Cheers Moe! Zip~
All it takes is intestinal fortatude and you can figure out anything hey mugzie thanks zippo we enjoyed it also hello to miss zippo your brother joe
Brother Joe and Family! I hope y'all are hanging in there. Muggsie is a great guy. We've been buds for about 10 years now. I've rebuilt all his engines on his beautifully restored machines. So far he's restored two B-12's and a Big Ten. Love you Brother! Zip~
Sooo, your having to crank so long to build the field for the nova to collapse. How did it run under load? That's a magnetron module lol! I'd be interested if you have a high tension voltage meter like the Styhl dealers have to have what kind of voltage it is generating? I'm going to try it on my 233431-0024 1979 model engine. If it works then the flywheel recharge to run a transistor module is fully put to bed. The 23 and 32 cube cast irons were the chief authors of that line of thinking. In the day late 80's we had to send the flywheel to the Burleigh plant to get re charged, that plant is closed and Briggs no longer re charges flywheels. Sad where Briggs has ended up. I was a field rep from 1998-2009 and worked at a dealer as a tech for 6 years. I'm also MST, and Kohler Master Tech, so I do have my bona-fides. Good video! Stay safe
I don't have a means to check that level of voltage unfortunately. I have watched others who flip the Magnetron coils cylinder side out and took care of the need to reverse the polarity of the flywheel magnets, however, I have not tried this my self as of yet. I do have a 16hp on the engine stand waiting on a first start that I may try this on. It's an odd bird of a Cast Iron, so it should be interesting to show the differences from a standard as well as see if the old girl still has it in her to start. Be Safe also! Cheers!! Zip~
ZippoVarya The generator I have is a very old Dayton that self starts from the generator end. I keep a battery in a marine case with the quick connects on the cables. Plug up the quick connects and hit the old school push starter button and thump thump away it goes. The old school rope wrap starter never has a clutch or spring go bad. It ran 14 days straight in 2007 during an Ice storm and about 4 days running window units a couple summers ago after a tornado. Little sea foam in the tank that carbs passages are so big it almost never stops up. Great engines. When I was in Hong Kong about 20 years ago they were still using them in open style saipan taxi boats. They mount them on the tiller and have a counterweight aft of a booted ball seal. They were still making them in China then. The cast iron wasn't bothered by the salt water like aluminum blocks were.
@@p.johnson2021 It sounds like you're not only a Bona-Fied tech, you're also quite the worldly Gentleman! I enjoyed the story. I own an old Montgomery Ward "Airline" Charger that starts in the same manner as yours. It uses the generator as the starter. This little guy dates back to the late 1940'sm weighs in at around 70 lbs and was a "portable" 6 Volt charger mainly geared towards Farmers who needed a portable self contained battery charger for farming equipment. I've got an older video of the little guy in action. Just search Airline Charger on my channel and you should be able to find it. Cheers! Zip~
I am very familiar with snap on the coil version.......... There were 2 other kinds.... The Nova like you got and the Atom.......... I forgot which came out first , but they both worked fine.... Then Briggs came out with it in the coil, hence magnetron coils took over the scene........
Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!
I'm all about keeping an engine original, but many people just want their engines to run as easily and cheaply as possible. The Nova II and similar points eliminators save my customers and friends a lot of money. Sure, my pocket doesn't get fat, but if you know me, you know a Friendship is worth a ton more than money can buy. Cheers My Good Friend! Zip~
I’ve been using one on my 23D for about 8 years now.
I do think I need to get mine rebuilt it’s never been touched.
Do you rebuild them I live in Ohio about an hour from you.
I think other people are confusing other B&S 23 models with the model 23D that uses a different coil types than the 23D model. Models 23 and 23A use the Magnamatic style coil. You also have the 23C type of coil which may or may not be able to use the Nova system. The 23C model had the points under the flywheel like the later B&S engines, not on the side of the block like the earlier BIG B&S engines. Then you have the models 9, 14, and 19 and what they used and when. Then you have the BIG cast iron engines that came after the different 23 model engines. I have many BIG B&S engines, but have not taken the time to research each model yet.
Cool .
Glad to have you stop by Terry! Zip~
Hey zippo any idea why simplicity designed there GT decks to rotate opposite of nearly every other mower/gt? It takes little effort to make the blades spin the other direction on them. Any ideas? Thanks
It's hard telling what they were thinking. Why do you want ot reverse the rotational direction? Just curious. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga
It was just a curiosity more then anything. I did however once cobble a 48" JD deck onto my 7010 and just tweeked the (mule drive?) pulleys to allow me to reverse the deck drive belt...reason for that was the original deck was in very bad shape. That machine has since been turned purely into my blade tractor.. thanks for the response, always enjoy your vids
I think Bob Tiarks stated a while back that the S/G had to reach a certain RPM b4 the engines would catch. Arn't most of the B&S vertical engines "pointless" IE magnatrons.
Cool Deal
What Allis Chalmers tractor did your 23D come out of ?
The 23D was only used in 1964 in both the Simplicity and Allis-Chalmers garden tractors. Great question! To answer, it's what us collectors call the "Early B-10" because in 1966 and 1967, they reintroduced the B-10. Cheers! Zip~
Hey Brother! So, on my B-112, I found what I'm 99.999% sure is the original magnetron wire sticking out from the blower housing. Disconnected when someone swapped to an automotive coil ignition setup. With the engine running, I can hold the bare end of that wire. Should I be getting nailed by high voltage? There's like nothing there. If I hook it to the points, think it'd come to life from...Magic...? I have a Nova II waiting to be installed but it won't work for an automotive type setup an I haven't gotten one of those round 2 it's and swapped it back. If I can just wire it back up and get rid of the other trash though I'd have it done in a minute or so! Maybe pull back the blower housing, clean and re-gap the pickup? Is that possible on my tractor without removing the engine?
That's an engine out situation to clean and gap the coil Brother. But, connecting the Nova II to that wire and grounding the other terminal is a 2 minute process, then crank it over and check for spark. You won't get bit by that single strand solid core wire, it's the big end that'll bite you and only if connected to the points and condenser. Can you get to the old plug wire from the Magneto? If so, give it a shot! Most people swap in a battery coil because they think the magneto is bad, when in actuality, it's poorly adjusted or serviced points. Cheers! Zip~
Is there a way for me to check the coil in this engine without taking it out of the tractor, or taking the flywheel off?
Hey Zippo with one of those things work on a Kohler K series engine?
They do not work with a Battery Ignition Coil.
@@ZippoVarga Thanks
Hi sir I have questions do you know what's the compresion for Briggs and stratton 19d and the clearance for the valves
The Model 19D has a compression release, so you need to spin the engine backward to obtain real compression numbers. It should be above 90. If lower, you may consider having the cylinder honed or bored and re-ringed. As for valve clearance, it's .007-.009 Intake and .017-.019 exhaust.
So if I use a 12 volt car coil on my b110 , I don’t have to use a resistor???
That's correct. If you use a 6V, which won't have a stamp on it saying what it is, you must also use a resistor. But with 12V coil that's stamped 12V, you're good to go. Zip~
Will a magnatron coil work on that too?
No, not on the 23D or any Briggs engine with the Tri-Leg coil. Great question. Zip~
interesting.
Crazy how that insulation degraded eh? Thanks for stopping by my Friend! Zip~