I always told my apprentices that you trust your life to your multimeter, so treat it accordingly. The fella who owns this one probably never got that speech.
True. The 177 is a cat III up to1000 volts and catIV up to 600 volts. So it guaranteed to not blow up if you accidentally connect it wrong, if you have the correct fuses.
I have seen so many blown fuses with tin foil, nails, bits of coat hanger and fuse wire wrapped around them in old electric fire places, fuse boxes etc but never in an important life saving device like that. I hope you give them a slap Mick as you too were clearly flabbergasted by it. But apart from that, that was a cracking multiple problem fix with great use of your microscope (Great bit of kit that is) I hope you both have fully recovered too chap. Many thanks for the best 45mins of my weekend.
The Fluke 83,85,87 service manual is still available on Flukes web site under manuals. All the way up to maybe series V, it seems they stopped after that. Those manuals are so impressive. They list every component and list the rotary switch table as well as biarf layouts. The 177 doesn't show the service manual at all. Just the user and calibration manuals. It was so awesome when fluke would share that information. I sure miss the time when schematics were shared for products we spent a lot of money on.
That meter was certainly a bit of a mess, it's not had an easy life! Good to see you got it working again. With that corrosion I would have covered it all in flux and used hot air to help clean it up and stop it progressing further, and removed all the effected parts and replaced the solder to get rid of the bad stuff, and maybe put some UV solder mask on the traces once they have been scraped back and re-tinned with fresh solder, as once it gets under the original solder mask it just creeps along under it eating away the copper as it goes, so removing it an re-tinning the tracks puts an end to it.
An absolutely great "fix it" video. I understand it gets a bit monotonous for you, when more issues keep popping up, but it's fantastic for us to watch you and learn from you diagnosing each problem, in a most methodical way. An extremely great educational video. Thank you! Darren.
The fuses are that expensive because of the safety rating. They are made to be able to withstand 1000V and break/contain an arc of up to 10000amps. It does this by being filled with quartz that turns to glass in the event of an overcurrent situation, limiting the current quickly. 99,9% of the time it won’t be needed, but you’ll be sorry the one time you actually need it and have put a regular fuse in there. They are there to protect the user. Great repair as always👍
For repairing plastic, check out a product called "plastifix". I repaired a bunch of broken pieces in my 1986 corvette. It's not a glue but makes new plastic. They have a good yt channel with tutorials on how to use.
BS1363 plug fuses are also HRC and contain sand. Not much difference really. The official fluke fuses are a fkn rip off. Im not paying bldy £6 for 1 fuse. Thats insane.
@@simontay4851 I don’t disagree that the fuses can be expensive, but as we saw in the video; one fuse was bypassed with a wire and both were normal glass fuses not rated for the safety standard of the instrument. In a “home use” environment where it’s only used on electronic gadgets, it shouldn’t create any problems, but in a professional setting you really should use the recommended fuses. The BS1362/63 fuses are only rated for 250V, 6kA, and don’t meet safety requirements. The Fluke is a CAT III-1000V instrument, so a minimum of 1000V, 10kA rated fuse should be used. As someone who works in an industrial setting, I’ve seen my fair share of accidents and near accidents, so you don’t skimp on the testing equipment. We actually have to have our testing equipment inspected once a year, and if any defects are discovered, even a small nick in the test leads, the instrument gets rejected until it is fixed or replaced. But when you’ve seen some of the main distribution system go up in smoke because of wrong equipment use, you kinda understand. Then a £6 fuse or some £40 leads doesn’t seem so expensive 😅
@@simontay4851 you shouldn't even buy fluke at all there are better alternatives like aneng and in my opinion clamp meters are better option cause they have additional more important function which is measuring current up to hundreds of amps without direct contact just by induction I always try to make my gears compact I want less tools less pile less distraction I feel overwhelmed when I have a lot of stuff
At first, I thought - why is Mick going to try to fix that flukey Fluke? It needs to go into the bin... And THEN I saw what Fluke charges for a NEW one! Nicely done, sir. You certainly have a lot of patience!
Thanks David 👍Yes, expensive but very good meters. I've got around 3 of the slightly older ones too, which I picked up at car boot sales / markets. I'd 100% recommend one.
Wow ! I went blue cos I forgot to breath during your surgery on that ceramic, I believe Caddock resistor. I've seen them snap and they cost a bob or two I know ! You brought that Fluke right back to life, I hope the owner takes better care of it now !.....cheers.
Congratulations. If at first you don’t succeed give up, obviously isn’t a maxim you subscribe to. This resulted in an excellent video, which I enjoyed watching. I must admit that at 11:18, when the bridge rectifier appeared to be short circuit, and you overlooked that there was a land, going to the wire wound resister, and I started talking to the screen😉. However, at 15:37 the penny dropped and your faulting process moved on. I must admit the determination force is strong in you, and it resulted in a working multimeter. Incidentally, the state of the board reminded me of a situation I suffered, sometime ago, when a Fluke 77 of mine, suffered at the hands of a leaking Duracell battery. Duracell coughed up for a new meter, and as they didn’t ask for the damaged one, I repaired it and ended up with another working Fluke multimeter. As this was not the first time I had suffered Duracell battery leakage, I ceased purchasing Duracell products. Cheers Noel.
Wow! That was weird. I've never seen a resistor repaired before. Thanks, too, for cleaning up the yellow case. It was terrible to look at 🙂. Did you do something to fix the missing display segments? I missed that. My Fluke has a couple of weak segments and I forgot how to fix them. Thanks for sharing this with us again. Your videos are very valuable.
Another great repair job! As you know much better than most, the UK is a harsh place for things like this left in toolboxes that go from warm to cold and get condensation inside regularly. Given the price, it is disappointing that Fluke don't plaster conformal coating on everything like treacle to help with this sort of issue. I know we can blame the owner, but to many it is just a work tool and they don't have time to nanny such devices. The fuses were inexcusable though!
Well done on the repair. One thing though, those fiberglass pens are, as you know, great at cleaning, but the fibers are really annoying when they get in your fingers (and it wouldn't be that difficult for one to ping off and get in your eyes for a terrible experience). There is a better alternative though - Garryflex Blocks. They come in different grits and are like a large eraser but with grit throughout. You can cut pieces off and just use those pieces, suitably shaped with a knife, or use the whole block. I've been using them for years and think they're excellent - they are a brilliant substitute for the dreaded fiberglass pen.
Excellent work, as always Mick. I'm a total convert to using epoxy putty to build up broken plastics, like you did with the JB weld. I find the putty cleaner and easier to mould to weird shapes, as it's the consistency of blue tack, or plasticine, when mixed. You can also use a cocktail stick to pre-drill holes, before it cures, as it keeps it shape. The putty is just epoxy with kaolin clay added and is fairly cheap on that rain forest site. The gloopy consistency of the JB weld can be a bit difficult, and messy, to get into the shape you want, been there done that.
@@BuyitFixit no worries. Lidl recently had tubes of the putty in the middle isle for a few quid a tube. You can also get more specialised putty like the JB weld steelstick that contains fibre glass and metal fillers, along with kaoline. Pretty sweet stuff.
@@BuyitFixit yes, and no. the rating for the one fuse is 10 amp, at 1000 volt, so 1000x10 is 10 KW of energy, released in a split second, thats why they are HRC or High Rupture Capacity fuses. You don't wat your meter explode in your hand if you make a mistake. a typical farmer measures 12 or 24 volt, but the meter is prepared for the worst case.
£24 for 2 fuses. That is absolutely fkn insane!!! Even £6 is stupidly expensive. You've been well ripped off there. There is no way i would pay that. Not a chance.
Looks like it was previously repaired using acid flux solder and the type of iron that is tossed into the camp fire to heat it up. When you got to the bridge diode rabbit hole you should have rotated the selector switch. Recall that devices with multiple high gain inputs like test equipment and amplifiers will short or bring unused inputs to ground. Good job getting it going!
as per...class to watch man easy to the ear easy to the eye and explained for the layman of us ...im no tech but its so easy to follow your diagnosis and to understand what components are and what they do... proud to be from our neck of the woods even though im in the philippines at the moment ...thanks man ..
A bridge rectifier shorted on the DC side is often used in protection circuits. In the case it seems to be protecting the resistor used for the 400mA range.
An ultrasonic cleaner with the right cleaning solution would really help out with these situations. I have a cheap one but it works great for this purpose. That is one nasty board, surprised it worked at all with the corrosion present. Great fault finding and repairs, Fluke doesn't help with no schematics available. Another satisfactory fix, thanks Mick👍
Thanks Terry👍 I've got an ultrasonic cleaner (used it in the previous video to clean the casings on the little video game). I'm not sure what solution you would need for this type of application, and I might be worried about things like the carbon pads for things like the buttons / LCD.
@BuyitFixit I've used water and Dawn dishwashing detergent as well as CLR and water to clean PCB's, a good drying is in order of course. Not used on paper coils or the like unless wax infused. Works wonders at cleaning corrosion and gunk off PCB's. Just dry thoroughly as normal. Hope this helps.
Evening Mick! . . .There IS a service manual with circuit diagrams available for the Fluke 179 which is very similar - I did have it on my old laptop at one time - I'll have a look over rhe next few days!
this was a chirurgical operation open heart ! maybe just little silicon on the big resistance ( 1K ) to limite vibration that is the reason broken legs ! another nice video whit professional result !
Yet another great fix. Your diagnostic & analytical skills are second to none and your refusal to give it up are truly inspiring. The Northern Terrier of Electronic Repair. But I would like to add as it's a Fluke it's covered by the best lifetime guarantee you can get. Classic equipment.
@@MikeB_UK I made & repaired coils 30+ years ago and the number of site transformers that came back with breakers taped down and kit-kat wrappers for fuses was scary. We used to say that the fuse was your guard dog, don't muzzle it.
That looks like saline corrosion, maybe it was stored near the sea or it was dropped in salty water. Brilliant repair, I would have never attempted to fix that precision resistor!
Nice repair, using a Fluke 179 to fix a Fluke 177. Scary that it showed about 2 volts AC when it was over 240v AC just goes to show never trust a single Multimeter not even a Fluke when working with high voltage.
@@BuyitFixit True I still would like to get a Fluke multimeter one day. I would keep my cheap ones though just to double check readings esp if working with high voltage. You can never have too many multimeters. 🙂
Well done. Horrible visions of what may have occurred with the selector 180 degrees out. You've obviously never seen a Sorin-style, proper-calibrated wire, before (28:30), ho, ho. Love the belt clip (0:08).
I purchased my fluke (87) many moons ago. It was returned after at least five years later, was sent back working perfectly fir free. I guess lifetime warranty no longer applies😅
It should be noted for those following along at home that if you're doing repairs on ceramic substrates, you HAVE to use silver solder of at least 2% silver (more is better). Leaded solder will dissolve the silver pads and traces on the ceramic substrate, destroying the part. This also applies to SMD parts with silvered solder pads.
@@BuyitFixit Yeah, I ended up ruining a Tektronix 2465 input attenuator board after trying to re-solder a couple of intermittent pin connections exactly like the ones you did here. I still kick myself for it.
So where do we buy low melt solder? RS only sells 227 degrees, and they threatened to kick you out if you say the word lead! I only have half of reel of leaded left that I got from Maplins 20 years ago. My dad was an electronics engineer for Rediffusion and Racal way back, he used a low melt bar, have not seen those in a while. Great Video, first lesson for an apprentice is how not to test voltage on current setting.
An excellent video as always well done 😊 I have a fluke 289 multimeter with a poorly screen you could take a look at if you want 😊 I’m just starting to slowly return to work after lymphoma and it sure would be nice if it worked again 😊
Thanks Alan 👍That is one very expensive meter! I just had a quick search on the internet and it looks like the screen is a sealed unit as such that attaches via a ribbon cable. lygte-info.dk/pic/Fluke/289/DSC_8453a.jpg
It sure was an expensive meter, one of my projects is repairing onboard weighing equipment on trucks, we work up to 2 decimal places in the Dc Mv range, the rest of my life gets spent as an auto electrician on HGV’s and trailers so for that I use a lesser meter 😊 how much is the display you found?
Is so unfair, everytime I try to fix something, I am wasting hours not finding anything faulty.. You touch a few things and find two things faulty almost immediately 😭
It happens to me at times too, so I have to cut the video down otherwise it would be hours long... Sometimes it's good to leave a troublesome item for a while and move onto something else, and then go back to it later.
You must go logical and step by step. Measure and look first at shorts and missing volts. You must know how the circuit works. If you not known you search at the Internet to teach yourself . Learning will never ends. (Sorry for my english, its a long time ago when i learned it😭)
@@BuyitFixit Yes it takes sometimes a lot of time to find the fault, one of my videos has almost two hours but younger viewers prefer short videos maybe their biological clock is faster than ours.
Just down to experience and prior knowledge that’s all mate keep at it watch more videos it will get slightly easier some of the repairs I do can take hours to figure out and fix the repair game isn’t fast and easy it’s how you approach the repair and methodically go through it that’s the key once you have your own way of fault finding you will find the repairs become fun and not a task hope it helps all the best
I have repaired this model fluke myself, the PCB protection lacquer is very poor and they’re very susceptible to water ingress. There was several areas where the PCB traces had corroded away and vias not connecting from one side of the PCB to the other.
Thanks, and a very good question. I'd say when it's no longer accurate (although I'm no expert). I've got a few meters so if one is telling me something way different to the others, there is either something blown or needing calibrated. I mean for the stuff I do, the fluke even if it's calibration has expired is probably more accurate than a generic meter bought from Amazon still...
What temparatures do you use for solder melting with the iron and the hot air? I looked up a guide on solder melt temps, but when I used that temp with mine it wouldn't melt... do you go a certain amount of degrees higher than the melt temp of the specific solder or is there a temp use use for all solder. Any help and advice is apriciated. I have learned quite a bit from videos like these and I want to be able to do these types of repairs myself on already broke hardware.
It depends on the solder. Leaded solder had a lower temperature than unleaded. I personally don't like unleaded as it's more brittle, prone to cracking and dry joints, and needs higher temperatures. I usually use my hot air station at around 350-400C at low air speed 3-6% but it also depends on your station. My iron is usually around 285 -300C hope that helps.
I'm wondering if that's the correct PCB in that meter? When you turn it on it doesn't display F177 on the LCD, and the rotary switch isn''t what I'm used to seeing in the 175, 177 and 179's. Maybe it's just an early version of hte 177 PCB but it seems unusual. The 1 Meg ceramic resistor and the rotary swtich seem to match what was on the Version III Fluke pcb's, the cases are very similar and I think a PCB from one would fit in the other.
I have a German made multimeter in my workshop that bells continuously on continuity. Perhaps that resistor rail is broken on mine too. Next chance I get, I'll test it. You're some man with the patience of mother Teresa. How anyone can let a meter get that bad is beyond me. I need to trust my multimeter on a daily basis. It could mean life or death. Look after it.
I have one that looks band new that shows 5.100 ohm on the resistance, and the voltage doesn't measure correctly. I would've loved if you poked around more to have your video as a reference. Its impossible to get hold of a schematics on these things.
Have you checked your leads? I know some cheaper leads aren't so good. There is a way to calibrate it, as I did find instructions on how to do it when looking for the schematic. I think you need a reliable voltage and perhaps some precision resistors to calibrate it correctly.
@BuyitFixit i really appreciate your reply, i believe its a hardware problem, the meter got passes on to me by someone, the board looks like has been cleaned and there a bit of residue of liquid damage. But no corrosion. I know these hidden menus for calibration exists, but for the meter to displays 5.1k ohms and very little voltage when measuring isn't normal behavior. Thank you again
Yes it does sound like something has blown. I'd start checking components around where the leads go like I did, and then work further towards the display side of the board.
Please next time also clean the back! My OCD was killing me for the complete duration.... But a great fix though 👍 And the owner of that thing for sure must need to take better care of his equipment. This was embarrasing 😁🤣
Yes I think I've had that before. The weirdest one I think was the newer Milwaukee vacuum cleaner I looked at, where the SMD fuse was passing voltage but no current.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I always told my apprentices that you trust your life to your multimeter, so treat it accordingly. The fella who owns this one probably never got that speech.
A Device To Be Venerated!!
I totally agree Matt 👍
Who ever did that to the fuse doesn't need a multimeter, they should be nowhere near electricity. Super Fix.
True. The 177 is a cat III up to1000 volts and catIV up to 600 volts. So it guaranteed to not blow up if you accidentally connect it wrong, if you have the correct fuses.
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
I have seen so many blown fuses with tin foil, nails, bits of coat hanger and fuse wire wrapped around them in old electric fire places, fuse boxes etc but never in an important life saving device like that. I hope you give them a slap Mick as you too were clearly flabbergasted by it. But apart from that, that was a cracking multiple problem fix with great use of your microscope (Great bit of kit that is) I hope you both have fully recovered too chap. Many thanks for the best 45mins of my weekend.
Thanks Darren, yes we're both fine now 👍
The Fluke 83,85,87 service manual is still available on Flukes web site under manuals. All the way up to maybe series V, it seems they stopped after that. Those manuals are so impressive. They list every component and list the rotary switch table as well as biarf layouts. The 177 doesn't show the service manual at all. Just the user and calibration manuals. It was so awesome when fluke would share that information. I sure miss the time when schematics were shared for products we spent a lot of money on.
I did see a few older schematic. I think someone said the fluke 179 manual was around on the internet somewhere, but I didn't search for that one.
@BuyitFixit
I believe they are similar...
That meter was certainly a bit of a mess, it's not had an easy life! Good to see you got it working again.
With that corrosion I would have covered it all in flux and used hot air to help clean it up and stop it progressing further, and removed all the effected parts and replaced the solder to get rid of the bad stuff, and maybe put some UV solder mask on the traces once they have been scraped back and re-tinned with fresh solder, as once it gets under the original solder mask it just creeps along under it eating away the copper as it goes, so removing it an re-tinning the tracks puts an end to it.
Thanks, and thanks for the tips 👍
What a shame that meter is so crusty, but you over came it with an awesome repair. Excellent work, great video!
Paul, USA!!!
Cheers Paul 👍
Never a 'shame' when One Uses Meters that much, Grease markings and All. 8) Better still, was *Fix when in for Repair.*
An absolutely great "fix it" video.
I understand it gets a bit monotonous for you, when more issues keep popping up, but it's fantastic for us to watch you and learn from you diagnosing each problem, in a most methodical way.
An extremely great educational video. Thank you! Darren.
Cheers Darren 👍
The best fixer on RUclips !
😊Awww. I'm sure there are better fixers out there 🙂
The fuses are that expensive because of the safety rating. They are made to be able to withstand 1000V and break/contain an arc of up to 10000amps. It does this by being filled with quartz that turns to glass in the event of an overcurrent situation, limiting the current quickly. 99,9% of the time it won’t be needed, but you’ll be sorry the one time you actually need it and have put a regular fuse in there. They are there to protect the user.
Great repair as always👍
For repairing plastic, check out a product called "plastifix". I repaired a bunch of broken pieces in my 1986 corvette. It's not a glue but makes new plastic. They have a good yt channel with tutorials on how to use.
Bussmann
BS1363 plug fuses are also HRC and contain sand. Not much difference really. The official fluke fuses are a fkn rip off. Im not paying bldy £6 for 1 fuse. Thats insane.
@@simontay4851 I don’t disagree that the fuses can be expensive, but as we saw in the video; one fuse was bypassed with a wire and both were normal glass fuses not rated for the safety standard of the instrument. In a “home use” environment where it’s only used on electronic gadgets, it shouldn’t create any problems, but in a professional setting you really should use the recommended fuses.
The BS1362/63 fuses are only rated for 250V, 6kA, and don’t meet safety requirements. The Fluke is a CAT III-1000V instrument, so a minimum of 1000V, 10kA rated fuse should be used.
As someone who works in an industrial setting, I’ve seen my fair share of accidents and near accidents, so you don’t skimp on the testing equipment.
We actually have to have our testing equipment inspected once a year, and if any defects are discovered, even a small nick in the test leads, the instrument gets rejected until it is fixed or replaced. But when you’ve seen some of the main distribution system go up in smoke because of wrong equipment use, you kinda understand. Then a £6 fuse or some £40 leads doesn’t seem so expensive 😅
@@simontay4851 you shouldn't even buy fluke at all there are better alternatives like aneng and in my opinion clamp meters are better option cause they have additional more important function which is measuring current up to hundreds of amps without direct contact just by induction I always try to make my gears compact I want less tools less pile less distraction I feel overwhelmed when I have a lot of stuff
At first, I thought - why is Mick going to try to fix that flukey Fluke? It needs to go into the bin... And THEN I saw what Fluke charges for a NEW one! Nicely done, sir. You certainly have a lot of patience!
Thanks David 👍Yes, expensive but very good meters. I've got around 3 of the slightly older ones too, which I picked up at car boot sales / markets. I'd 100% recommend one.
Wow ! I went blue cos I forgot to breath during your surgery on that ceramic, I believe Caddock resistor. I've seen them snap and they cost a bob or two I know ! You brought that Fluke right back to life, I hope the owner takes better care of it now !.....cheers.
Thanks Andymouse! I hope you've recovered from the episode now 😂😂Yes, great meters. I've got a few of the older ones, which still work great too!
@@BuyitFixit :)
You had me screaming at the computer. "Clean it, Clean it, get some baking soda and Clean it" LOL.
Actually if it's battery corrosion, try Vinegar and then neutralize with baking soda. Works very well.
I'd normally use white vinegar for battery corrosion, but I was told this was left outside in the rain for a couple of days..
Congratulations. If at first you don’t succeed give up, obviously isn’t a maxim you subscribe to. This resulted in an excellent video, which I enjoyed watching.
I must admit that at 11:18, when the bridge rectifier appeared to be short circuit, and you overlooked that there was a land, going to the wire wound resister, and I started talking to the screen😉.
However, at 15:37 the penny dropped and your faulting process moved on.
I must admit the determination force is strong in you, and it resulted in a working multimeter.
Incidentally, the state of the board reminded me of a situation I suffered, sometime ago, when a Fluke 77 of mine, suffered at the hands of a leaking Duracell battery. Duracell coughed up for a new meter, and as they didn’t ask for the damaged one, I repaired it and ended up with another working Fluke multimeter.
As this was not the first time I had suffered Duracell battery leakage, I ceased purchasing Duracell products.
Cheers Noel.
Thanks Noel 👍
Wow! That was weird. I've never seen a resistor repaired before. Thanks, too, for cleaning up the yellow case. It was terrible to look at 🙂. Did you do something to fix the missing display segments? I missed that. My Fluke has a couple of weak segments and I forgot how to fix them. Thanks for sharing this with us again. Your videos are very valuable.
Thanks Bruce 👍I just cleaned the zebra strips, and the carbon pads on the board. Then just made sure the screws were tightened up enough.
@@BuyitFixit Thanks kindly, Mick. I'll have my wife give it a go. My hands are too shaky for that.
Another great repair job! As you know much better than most, the UK is a harsh place for things like this left in toolboxes that go from warm to cold and get condensation inside regularly. Given the price, it is disappointing that Fluke don't plaster conformal coating on everything like treacle to help with this sort of issue. I know we can blame the owner, but to many it is just a work tool and they don't have time to nanny such devices. The fuses were inexcusable though!
😂😂Thanks Mike👍
Great Fix again ! The owner probably uses it 'in the field' as it looks so scuffed
Thanks 👍I think it gets used on plant machinery, cars, and just general garage type stuff.
@@BuyitFixit that explains it :)
Well done on the repair.
One thing though, those fiberglass pens are, as you know, great at cleaning, but the fibers are really annoying when they get in your fingers (and it wouldn't be that difficult for one to ping off and get in your eyes for a terrible experience).
There is a better alternative though - Garryflex Blocks. They come in different grits and are like a large eraser but with grit throughout. You can cut pieces off and just use those pieces, suitably shaped with a knife, or use the whole block. I've been using them for years and think they're excellent - they are a brilliant substitute for the dreaded fiberglass pen.
Thanks 👍 I'll have a look into those. Thank you for sharing 🙂
Excellent work, as always Mick.
I'm a total convert to using epoxy putty to build up broken plastics, like you did with the JB weld.
I find the putty cleaner and easier to mould to weird shapes, as it's the consistency of blue tack, or plasticine, when mixed. You can also use a cocktail stick to pre-drill holes, before it cures, as it keeps it shape. The putty is just epoxy with kaolin clay added and is fairly cheap on that rain forest site.
The gloopy consistency of the JB weld can be a bit difficult, and messy, to get into the shape you want, been there done that.
Thanks mate, I'll look into epoxy putty!
@@BuyitFixit no worries. Lidl recently had tubes of the putty in the middle isle for a few quid a tube.
You can also get more specialised putty like the JB weld steelstick that contains fibre glass and metal fillers, along with kaoline.
Pretty sweet stuff.
Great fix Mick thanks, I have a fluke I’ve had for about 27 years and still works great and one similar to your own one, I just love fluke 😊
Thanks Gary 👍Yes great meters, expensive, but very good.
Well done again Mick and no "fluke" 🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂😂Thanks Mike 👍
Oh, the Clarity with that scope. Divine.
Yes, it's pretty good 🙂👍
The owner must have been using that meter on the beach with the state of it. Nice repair, well done, it lives to fight another day.
😂😂Thanks 👍I think he was using it outside, forgot to bring it in and it got left out in the rain.
24 quid for a pair of fluke fuses. Yikes. Man, my whole multimeter didnt cost much more than that. Great video, thanks so much.
Thanks 👍Yes, although I did find them cheaper on Amazon for around £6 each. But that's still expensive for a fuse!
@@BuyitFixit yes, and no. the rating for the one fuse is 10 amp, at 1000 volt, so 1000x10 is 10 KW of energy, released in a split second, thats why they are HRC or High Rupture Capacity fuses. You don't wat your meter explode in your hand if you make a mistake. a typical farmer measures 12 or 24 volt, but the meter is prepared for the worst case.
Lol I paid £35 for my 115
@@dean6816 That was a steal man. Can you check the back battery cover for the letters AB?. My friends 115 was taken out of his van.
£24 for 2 fuses. That is absolutely fkn insane!!! Even £6 is stupidly expensive. You've been well ripped off there. There is no way i would pay that. Not a chance.
Looks like it was previously repaired using acid flux solder and the type of iron that is tossed into the camp fire to heat it up.
When you got to the bridge diode rabbit hole you should have rotated the selector switch. Recall that devices with multiple high gain inputs like test equipment and amplifiers will short or bring unused inputs to ground. Good job getting it going!
Thanks Eddie 👍
Great job, Mick. I think that must be kept in an outdoor location to have corrosion like that, but you sorted it anyway. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Brian 👍I think it got left out in the rain he said.
Excellent repair, surprisingly capable. grinding away at that resistor nearly made me scream but you managed it!!
Thanks 👍It was either that or try and source a replacement from somewhere, if they are available..
@ oh absolutely, it was just scary! You did a great job!
I saw a new BiFi video and BOOM! It was Fixed. Well I was Fixated on watching it, immediately. 😆
Thanks mate 👍
as per...class to watch man easy to the ear easy to the eye and explained for the layman of us ...im no tech but its so easy to follow your diagnosis and to understand what components are and what they do... proud to be from our neck of the woods even though im in the philippines at the moment ...thanks man ..
Thanks very Much! 🙂👍
A bridge rectifier shorted on the DC side is often used in protection circuits.
In the case it seems to be protecting the resistor used for the 400mA range.
Interesting. Thanks for that, something I've not came across before.
Watching your videos are never boring
He's SO Good.
Cheers George 👍
An ultrasonic cleaner with the right cleaning solution would really help out with these situations. I have a cheap one but it works great for this purpose. That is one nasty board, surprised it worked at all with the corrosion present. Great fault finding and repairs, Fluke doesn't help with no schematics available. Another satisfactory fix, thanks Mick👍
Thanks Terry👍 I've got an ultrasonic cleaner (used it in the previous video to clean the casings on the little video game). I'm not sure what solution you would need for this type of application, and I might be worried about things like the carbon pads for things like the buttons / LCD.
@BuyitFixit I've used water and Dawn dishwashing detergent as well as CLR and water to clean PCB's, a good drying is in order of course. Not used on paper coils or the like unless wax infused. Works wonders at cleaning corrosion and gunk off PCB's. Just dry thoroughly as normal. Hope this helps.
Evening Mick!
. . .There IS a service manual with circuit diagrams available for the Fluke 179 which is very similar - I did have it on my old laptop at one time - I'll have a look over rhe next few days!
Thanks for that Christopher. I didn't search for the 179 manual, but the meter is very similar to mine so I guess there's not a lot of differences.
Hell, that PCB looks like it was on site when the Chernobyl reactor blew up.
Neat repair Mick.
LMAO 😂😂😂 Cheers mate 👍
this was a chirurgical operation open heart ! maybe just little silicon on the big resistance ( 1K ) to limite vibration that is the reason broken legs ! another nice video whit professional result !
Cheers mate 🙂👍
Excellent, Mick. And with a lot of patience, essential for this work. Congrats (and I hope your wife is fully recovered from the feral attack).
Thanks mate 👍Yes she's pretty much fully recovered now. Still got quite a nasty mark on her hand where the puncture would was though.
@@BuyitFixit sadly…those are the real tattoos; the ones life makes you. A big hug from Madrid.
Yet another great fix. Your diagnostic & analytical skills are second to none and your refusal to give it up are truly inspiring. The Northern Terrier of Electronic Repair.
But I would like to add as it's a Fluke it's covered by the best lifetime guarantee you can get. Classic equipment.
That warranty is the only reason the Fluke is worth the purchase cost.
I don't think Fluke would be honouring that once they had seen those fuses! 🤣
@@MikeB_UK I made & repaired coils 30+ years ago and the number of site transformers that came back with breakers taped down and kit-kat wrappers for fuses was scary. We used to say that the fuse was your guard dog, don't muzzle it.
@ That and the consistency of the design. Great products.
Good video, good to see so many problems sorted. I have the same meter, it's dead so will have a look at it.
Thanks, hopefully you get it working again 👍
another great repair . I love your diagnostic skills & your patience
Thanks John 👍
I guess along with returning your buddy's Fluke you need to tell him stop drinking tea on the workbench, nice fix as always.
Thanks 👍I think he said it was left out in the rain.
That looks like saline corrosion, maybe it was stored near the sea or it was dropped in salty water. Brilliant repair, I would have never attempted to fix that precision resistor!
Thanks 👍😊
A great fix again...I really enjoy your videos!...
Thanks 👍
Nice fix, Mick. A few of those components looked badly corroded.
Thanks Mikey 👍
Strong work, Mick! I love your tenacity.
Thanks mate 👍
That was one heck of a Fox hunt ...... It was worth the repair , those Flukes cost a pretty penny and it cleaned up nice .... Take Care Mon Ami .....
Cheers Cajun 👍
An excellent repair 👍
I hope it will be treated with care now.
Thanks 👍Me too!
Good work finding that hidden fault with the 1meg precision resistor. 👏👍
Thanks 👍🙂
Brilliant as always. Your videos a always a pleasure to watch
Thank you! Cheers!
As usual, excellent video Mick! Always look forward to a new video from you.
Thanks mate 👍🙂
That meter was well worth fixing, nice one!
Thanks 👍
Great repair thanks..but i think some joints still need to be resolder
Thanks 👍Yes a couple of them still could do with a bit more cleaning or re-soldering as you say.
Looks like it has tossed around! That's a shame on an expensive DMM! It's also a really stupid thing to put a wire across a fuse!
But 👍for your work!
Thanks mate 👍
Nice repair, using a Fluke 179 to fix a Fluke 177. Scary that it showed about 2 volts AC when it was over 240v AC just goes to show never trust a single Multimeter not even a Fluke when working with high voltage.
Thanks 👍I think this one was more abuse than anything else. I'd expect them to be very reliable under normal conditions.
@@BuyitFixit True I still would like to get a Fluke multimeter one day. I would keep my cheap ones though just to double check readings esp if working with high voltage. You can never have too many multimeters. 🙂
The microscope for the win ! Nice job Mick !
Cheers Jesse 👍
Absolutely brilliant 👍🏼 Thank you, Mick for sharing this great fix.
Cheers mate 👍🙂
Nicely done, a good repair and scrapping avoided.
Thanks 👍
Excellent as ever. I always learn something new from your videos A+
Awesome, thank you!
Enjoyed this. Looked like the display contacts on the PCB could've used some cleaning.
Thanks Tim, I did also clean those and the zebra strips after it still didn't work quite right 👍
@@BuyitFixit Poor design from Fluke. They should have used soldered ribbon wires.
Can't wait to see what you find Mick. Thanks for posting
Cheers Neil 👍
Wow, I thought that meter was beyond saving when you first opened it.
Thanks 👍I've had worse things... I think the Yamaha drum machine springs to mind...
A really good fix there since it is pretty bad inside.
Thanks Keith 👍
Up to date with you for now. Off to binge someone else 🙂
No worries Chris 👍🙂
Well done my friend. Love your content.
Thank you 👍
I was going to say “That looks like it’s been around the block a few times” 🤠
Yes indeed 😂😂😂👍
Well done. Horrible visions of what may have occurred with the selector 180 degrees out. You've obviously never seen a Sorin-style, proper-calibrated wire, before (28:30), ho, ho. Love the belt clip (0:08).
Thanks Ralph 👍
I purchased my fluke (87) many moons ago. It was returned after at least five years later, was sent back working perfectly fir free. I guess lifetime warranty no longer applies😅
Nice 👍I didn't know they had a lifetime warranty. I wonder if that applies to just the original purchaser?
Very nice repair, also work on that resistor was very nice :)
Thanks very much 👍
Well done again
Thanks 👍
It should be noted for those following along at home that if you're doing repairs on ceramic substrates, you HAVE to use silver solder of at least 2% silver (more is better). Leaded solder will dissolve the silver pads and traces on the ceramic substrate, destroying the part. This also applies to SMD parts with silvered solder pads.
Interesting. I've not heard of that before 👍
@@BuyitFixit Yeah, I ended up ruining a Tektronix 2465 input attenuator board after trying to re-solder a couple of intermittent pin connections exactly like the ones you did here. I still kick myself for it.
Nice work my friend! Fun video to watch!
Thanks very much 👍
So where do we buy low melt solder? RS only sells 227 degrees, and they threatened to kick you out if you say the word lead! I only have half of reel of leaded left that I got from Maplins 20 years ago.
My dad was an electronics engineer for Rediffusion and Racal way back, he used a low melt bar, have not seen those in a while. Great Video, first lesson for an apprentice is how not to test voltage on current setting.
Thanks 👍See video description for tools and consumables I use such as low melt solder 🙂
Fluke 177 had no chance against your skills! 🤩.
😂😂😂👍
An excellent video as always well done 😊 I have a fluke 289 multimeter with a poorly screen you could take a look at if you want 😊 I’m just starting to slowly return to work after lymphoma and it sure would be nice if it worked again 😊
Thanks Alan 👍That is one very expensive meter! I just had a quick search on the internet and it looks like the screen is a sealed unit as such that attaches via a ribbon cable. lygte-info.dk/pic/Fluke/289/DSC_8453a.jpg
It sure was an expensive meter, one of my projects is repairing onboard weighing equipment on trucks, we work up to 2 decimal places in the Dc Mv range, the rest of my life gets spent as an auto electrician on HGV’s and trailers so for that I use a lesser meter 😊 how much is the display you found?
"It doesn't work quite right"
😂😂😂😂Very true.
I have a couple 177 0r 179? Flukes and have blown that current fuse a few times!
Pretty expensive for the fuses!
Great work and video as usual 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Ah! The external wire wound Varifuse, so useful LOL.
😂😂😂😂
Loved to see this and ALL your other uploads, many thanks from Nr Chester.
Thanks Chris 👍
Omg! Did you solder that pin's back side? Didn't see that on video. Back side have the pad for physical strength of the component.
There was still some solder on the pin / pad so it (probably not loads though) but I didn't want to chance heating it up again.
very good video ,never to old to learn ;;
Thanks 🙂👍
Great job mate !
Thank you! Cheers👍
Nicely done but my favourite fluke of all time is the 113.
Is so unfair, everytime I try to fix something, I am wasting hours not finding anything faulty.. You touch a few things and find two things faulty almost immediately 😭
It happens to me at times too, so I have to cut the video down otherwise it would be hours long... Sometimes it's good to leave a troublesome item for a while and move onto something else, and then go back to it later.
Looks like coffee or tea was spilled on it sometime in the past
You must go logical and step by step. Measure and look first at shorts and missing volts. You must know how the circuit works. If you not known you search at the Internet to teach yourself . Learning will never ends. (Sorry for my english, its a long time ago when i learned it😭)
@@BuyitFixit Yes it takes sometimes a lot of time to find the fault, one of my videos has almost two hours but younger viewers prefer short videos maybe their biological clock is faster than ours.
Just down to experience and prior knowledge that’s all mate keep at it watch more videos it will get slightly easier some of the repairs I do can take hours to figure out and fix the repair game isn’t fast and easy it’s how you approach the repair and methodically go through it that’s the key once you have your own way of fault finding you will find the repairs become fun and not a task hope it helps all the best
Hope you have a quiet word with your friend about the proper use of fuses!
😂😂I will when I return it 🙂👍
Glad I’m not the guy that’s just bought that on eBay & sent it for calibration 😂
😂😂😂👍
Heya, really nice repair aspesially wen you don't have shematics
Cheers mate 👍
I have repaired this model fluke myself, the PCB protection lacquer is very poor and they’re very susceptible to water ingress. There was several areas where the PCB traces had corroded away and vias not connecting from one side of the PCB to the other.
Nice, well done 👍
great content as always, top job.
Cheers Paul 👍
Sir your video was great as always but my question to you is at what point do these meters have to get Calibrated ? Thank you , WA3FRD
Thanks, and a very good question. I'd say when it's no longer accurate (although I'm no expert). I've got a few meters so if one is telling me something way different to the others, there is either something blown or needing calibrated. I mean for the stuff I do, the fluke even if it's calibration has expired is probably more accurate than a generic meter bought from Amazon still...
What temparatures do you use for solder melting with the iron and the hot air? I looked up a guide on solder melt temps, but when I used that temp with mine it wouldn't melt... do you go a certain amount of degrees higher than the melt temp of the specific solder or is there a temp use use for all solder.
Any help and advice is apriciated. I have learned quite a bit from videos like these and I want to be able to do these types of repairs myself on already broke hardware.
It depends on the solder. Leaded solder had a lower temperature than unleaded. I personally don't like unleaded as it's more brittle, prone to cracking and dry joints, and needs higher temperatures. I usually use my hot air station at around 350-400C at low air speed 3-6% but it also depends on your station. My iron is usually around 285 -300C hope that helps.
@BuyitFixit thank you much
I'm wondering if that's the correct PCB in that meter? When you turn it on it doesn't display F177 on the LCD, and the rotary switch isn''t what I'm used to seeing in the 175, 177 and 179's. Maybe it's just an early version of hte 177 PCB but it seems unusual.
The 1 Meg ceramic resistor and the rotary swtich seem to match what was on the Version III Fluke pcb's, the cases are very similar and I think a PCB from one would fit in the other.
I'm not too sure, I've not worked on many fluke meters.
I have a German made multimeter in my workshop that bells continuously on continuity. Perhaps that resistor rail is broken on mine too. Next chance I get, I'll test it. You're some man with the patience of mother Teresa. How anyone can let a meter get that bad is beyond me. I need to trust my multimeter on a daily basis. It could mean life or death. Look after it.
Thanks 👍and good advice 🙂
I have one that looks band new that shows 5.100 ohm on the resistance, and the voltage doesn't measure correctly. I would've loved if you poked around more to have your video as a reference. Its impossible to get hold of a schematics on these things.
Have you checked your leads? I know some cheaper leads aren't so good. There is a way to calibrate it, as I did find instructions on how to do it when looking for the schematic. I think you need a reliable voltage and perhaps some precision resistors to calibrate it correctly.
@BuyitFixit i really appreciate your reply, i believe its a hardware problem, the meter got passes on to me by someone, the board looks like has been cleaned and there a bit of residue of liquid damage. But no corrosion.
I know these hidden menus for calibration exists, but for the meter to displays 5.1k ohms and very little voltage when measuring isn't normal behavior. Thank you again
Yes it does sound like something has blown. I'd start checking components around where the leads go like I did, and then work further towards the display side of the board.
Hi , as always a thorough thoughtful investigation :-)
Can your customer say in which environment it became so rusty?
Thanks 👍I think it may have been left outside when it rained.
My guess would have been a mechanic
are you using leaded or just low melt?
Both, I used low melt to remove the bridge rectifier instead of hot air, but re-soldered and re-fitted components with leaded solder.
good job
Thanks 👍
Please next time also clean the back!
My OCD was killing me for the complete duration....
But a great fix though 👍
And the owner of that thing for sure must need to take better care of his equipment. This was embarrasing 😁🤣
It took me quite some time to clean the front, after that I thought sod it, I'm supposed to be fixing it not bloody cleaning it for him 😂😂😂
Nice one 👌
Thanks Richard 👍
The fuses are only there for mA and A readings, in most if not all multimeters.
👍
I remember a "Fluke". Not in a Multimeter but in a fuse that was not visibly blown. It was separated in the end cap. Bizarre.
Yes I think I've had that before. The weirdest one I think was the newer Milwaukee vacuum cleaner I looked at, where the SMD fuse was passing voltage but no current.
Looks like it was previously repaired with a 2d nail heated over the kitchen oven ring and vinegar as a flux
😂😂😂👍