Thank you for the review. I came here because I own several other brand units like this and this one seemed extremely underpowered as a power bank compared to the mfg's specs. So, I was looking for info just like this. However, these units have their place. It does in fact, jump start a car with a low battery (It will not jump a dead battery, you need a higher-priced unit with a manual override to do that). It doesn't charge the battery. And it cannot be left connected for more than 30 seconds at a time (it powers off for safety). You connect it, wait about 10 seconds, indicator lights come on and you crank the engine. The unit sends a burst of energy to give your starter and ignition system the power it needs to turn over the engine, pump fuel to the cylinders and ignite it. I've tested this on my car, which is suffering from a parasitic draw problem and needs to be jumped if left for 2 days (until parts can arrive from Japan) and it does work. After that, you still have a low battery, and hopefully, if the car battery isn't toasted, you can recharge or recondition it when you get home with a battery tender/charger. This unit cannot be used to charge a car battery. Perhaps your test may have activated this protect feature, as you were using the output port designed with that safety cut-off? IDK. I would be interested to see how many MaH there are when using the regulated, lower-powered USB output ports. Still, I know it is nowhere near 24000. But, I bought this to jump my car when the battery is low, and as an emergency Qi charger (a nice feature that works well) So, considering the price tag of $69 on Amazon, I had low expectations and was pleasantly surprised. A unit that might work for your application would be in the $150-$250+ range. I also believe a straight-up, purpose-designed Battery Pack (not a Car Booster device) is better for your intended purpose. As my engineer Dad always said, "Something that does the job of several other tools doesn't do any of them very well" ;) Great testing and review.
Which one would you recommend? I mainly want one to charge my phone, and maybe use it for jump starting if necessary, but I just to charge devices like my phone.
@@DonYeyoReaks First, let me say, I'm very happy with my Biuble Jump Starter. I have used it dozens of times. It jumps my car and hardly drops 1% each time. It also charges my LG phone and I LOVE the Qi charger feature. That said, it only has an effective maH of about 6000, far below what they state (24,000 mah? Not even close) It is, IMO, not a good idea to seek a device that does both excellent Jump Starting and also as a primary Power Bank. (It's a great back-up power bank!) Even the Hulkman and Noco Jump Starters which are the best bang for the buck, lack in the power bank area. Most advertise 20000 maH, but really test out at about 6000 maH. But, they are excellent at starting cars. (Noco's have an override to jump even dead batteries, most need a partially charged battery in order to work, until you get up over the $200 range) Anker makes excellent power banks, but they can't jump a car. I'd buy an inexpensive car jump like the Noco, Hulkman, or the like in the $100 range, and then buy a decent power bank like an Anker. (units in the 20000-36000maH range in the $20-$35 range on Amazon)
I'm going to have to rethink my plan. I went back to look for replacements and it looks like this company isn't the only one taking liberties with their marketing data.
Right? This is my first personal experience with a device blatantly out of spec. I've seen a lot of "stretching the truth" but this is a straight-up lie.
I like the way you think; I’ve been considering something along this line for a lightweight field charging solution myself. I have a 10ah jump pack that took me down that train of thought. Mine has the bms built into a separate plug.
Unfortunately, I'm not happy with what I've figured out. There will be more about this on the PilotJam. As it stands, I'm switching v1 to a 24v power supply and will noodle on what to do about v2 which I really want to be self-contained.
I'd like to see which manufacturer you find that gives accurate specifications.... mostly because a lot of these do come from way out west, west, ocean, then west...
We spent time discussing this on the PilotJam. I cracked the code on what they're doing. Bottom line, they're calculating MAH based on ridiculously low voltage levels (~3.0v) and even then they're stretching the truth. I think this is one area Amazon needs to intervene and force some truthfulness. People are getting ripped off big time.
This one goes beyond stretching the truth a little. This is a straight-up fabrication. I went back to Amazon afterwards and this product category is rife with similar claims for similar size devices. I'm disappointed to be sure. This has to be the single most irrefutable case of false advertising I've ever seen.
Hi there I have a question can u send me a link where to purchase those 10,000 mah lipo batteries 🔋? Please if u don’t mind , what’s the C rating on those lipos you got ?
@@RCVideoReviews Thanks 🙏 for your quick response, and yes I saw sum there at hobby king but with low C rating I need some 10.000 with it least 75 and up C rating , Thanks though
It’s cheaper to buy a lipo that can deliver the amps I need than to buy a jump pack that has false claims , which it’s a lot of jump packs that are very expensive and so far I’ve never have seen one that can deliver no more than 500 amps
Which jump starter would you recommend? I may use it for jump start if necessary, but I truly only want it to charge my phone. Which would be the best?
@@RCVideoReviews I was thinking of getting the Gooloo 4000 since it says it can jump start and charge an iPhone up to 6 times. Is there any power bank you’d recommend?
They're commodities. Find a 24,000mah power bank. Forget the jump starters. Their marketing is disingenuous as they "technically" have high MAH ratings, they're doing it based on a 3v calculation.
I’ve always know these chargers to not do great at charging thing.. they start my diesel truck fine .. but will only charge my cellphone maybe 2 times before dead.. I dunno why.. I use the micro start xp-10… starts my diesel 10 times no problem.. only charged iPhone like 2 maybe 3 times
Disappointing capacity results. Have you tried to start a car with a depleted battery which is what it's supposed to do ? I've got a Turnigy 20,000mAh Battery Booster. When my Honda does not start (due to a discharged battery in below freezing temperatures) I use it to start my car. Works great. Not sure if the capacity is actually 20,000mAh (haven't tested it) but after a cold start the battery level indicator shows still full and is still high enough to do 3-4 more starts. Just bought a smaller 13,800 for under $40 for the bike. Will test it once it arrives.
The only testing I did was what the video showed. I wanted it to use as a field charging powerbank. I don't have a dead car battery to test it out on, but Project Farm did a good video testing a bunch of these things which is where I got the idea to get one for RC use. They claim 2400 peak amps which is a joke too. There's NO WAY the Li-Ion batteries could support that, and I didn't see any components inside that could have provided that level of current either. The battery mains were kind of thick, but the interface to the mains is an EC5 which has a 120a continuous/150a burst rating. 2400a would probably melt a hole through the thing.
@@RCVideoReviews Yeah that battery looked kinda small for a 12v pack (li-ion or Li-Po). Before my smaller 1000 Amp Max Battery Booster gets here I got a hold of the Specs. It states that the 1000 amps can be drawn for 0.2 seconds. A car usually takes 150-300 Amps to start. Not sure if the smaller 1000A unit will start my car.. Pretty sure it will start the Harley. I am very happy though with my HK Turnigy 20,000 mAh (Model T13) Battery Booster that states a Start Current of 480A and a peak Current of 900A. Might be worthwhile building your own field pack. BTW... I see that most units have a 13 Volt over discharge protection circuit.
@@lasersbee Does your HK actually provide 20,000mah though? It looks like so many of these others. I only need about 10a max, so amperage is not a big factor in my decision making for this setup. I want the power density as small as I can get it. In any event, I've just converted version 1 of this effort to a 24v dc power supply. I would still like to do a battery powered option, but when I added-up the Li-Ion batteries to do this, it came out to $126 for 3s6p (3500*6=21,000) which isn't terrible, but it would not be a project I think most people would want to take on because it would require BMS, spot welding, etc...
BMS stands for Battery Management System. Generally they're used to prevent overdischarge of a battery and they can be used to balance charge with just a single power input and no balance lead. They open the mains circuit when voltage decreases to a point to preserve the battery. Without a BMS you can discharge unprotected cells all the way to 0v which is really bad for Lithium based batteries.
Hi there my friend good video , it’s sad that we all been fooled in to many ways and level all jumó starters and many other electronics and other stuff it’s always miss represented with bs value marketing , I wish there was a real law that would sue this companies for making us pay high dollar for junk that they sell and to re inverse the money back to those that got screwed , because that’s how all this companies get rich outta ppl that doesn’t know any better , but i hope one day soon that will come true where we all stand up together to stop all this lies we been told , anyway good job and good video again I had bought lots of this kinda products and I’ve notice that the way this companies advertise their product like this one that say it’s 23000 mah it’s that they add all the number of the cells it’s in that jumó pack so for instants if the label 🏷 states that those are 6000 mah cells they add this 6000 by 4 times which it’s the 4 cells in that pack so when u add them it’ comes out at 24000 mah and that’s how they do it , and am saying this because I have had open every single one of my jumó packs just to do the same thing u just did to see if it really it’s what they said it is , but it’s not , the way I have found out to make a good jump pack it’s to buy ur own lipo batteries or lithium cell and u make ur own with better quality batteries and even know those are the same way not the real deal on their specs but it’s since u b making it it will b better
I see some misconceptions regarding this power bank. Firstly, ~99% of power banks are rated at 3.7V so 3.7V times 24000mah you get about 88W depends on the rated voltage of the cells. Second you are discharging at 15.5V times 3.25A you get about 50W considering power conversion losses I think your close to specs. Nice video anyway.
Except 3.7v is a useless metric to calculate MAH for a device intended to jumpstart 12v systems. This is marketing BS used to get people to buy a cheap set of batteries for way too much money. I know exactly how to conduct the equations and the sellers of these products are clearly using the technicalities of the formula to create marketing hype. Nice comment anyway.
They can work reasonably well if you leave them across the battery for a couple of minutes before cranking. They put enough charge into the battery to support the necessary cranking amps.
@project farm did a good video showing them jumping dead batteries. That's where I got the idea to grab one for a field charger: ruclips.net/video/ixWPx79g3yk/видео.html
Thanks a lot for a very good test of this jump starter.
Thank you for putting this type of content out there. Good info to know.
You're welcome. They say a peak of 2400a too. I think that would literally burn this thing down.
Loving the content John and congrats on hitting 13k subs 👍
Awesome thank you!
Thank you for the review. I came here because I own several other brand units like this and this one seemed extremely underpowered as a power bank compared to the mfg's specs. So, I was looking for info just like this.
However, these units have their place. It does in fact, jump start a car with a low battery (It will not jump a dead battery, you need a higher-priced unit with a manual override to do that). It doesn't charge the battery. And it cannot be left connected for more than 30 seconds at a time (it powers off for safety). You connect it, wait about 10 seconds, indicator lights come on and you crank the engine. The unit sends a burst of energy to give your starter and ignition system the power it needs to turn over the engine, pump fuel to the cylinders and ignite it. I've tested this on my car, which is suffering from a parasitic draw problem and needs to be jumped if left for 2 days (until parts can arrive from Japan) and it does work.
After that, you still have a low battery, and hopefully, if the car battery isn't toasted, you can recharge or recondition it when you get home with a battery tender/charger. This unit cannot be used to charge a car battery. Perhaps your test may have activated this protect feature, as you were using the output port designed with that safety cut-off? IDK.
I would be interested to see how many MaH there are when using the regulated, lower-powered USB output ports. Still, I know it is nowhere near 24000. But, I bought this to jump my car when the battery is low, and as an emergency Qi charger (a nice feature that works well)
So, considering the price tag of $69 on Amazon, I had low expectations and was pleasantly surprised. A unit that might work for your application would be in the $150-$250+ range. I also believe a straight-up, purpose-designed Battery Pack (not a Car Booster device) is better for your intended purpose.
As my engineer Dad always said, "Something that does the job of several other tools doesn't do any of them very well" ;)
Great testing and review.
Which one would you recommend? I mainly want one to charge my phone, and maybe use it for jump starting if necessary, but I just to charge devices like my phone.
@@DonYeyoReaks First, let me say, I'm very happy with my Biuble Jump Starter. I have used it dozens of times. It jumps my car and hardly drops 1% each time.
It also charges my LG phone and I LOVE the Qi charger feature. That said, it only has an effective maH of about 6000, far below what they state (24,000 mah? Not even close)
It is, IMO, not a good idea to seek a device that does both excellent Jump Starting and also as a primary Power Bank. (It's a great back-up power bank!)
Even the Hulkman and Noco Jump Starters which are the best bang for the buck, lack in the power bank area. Most advertise 20000 maH, but really test out at about 6000 maH.
But, they are excellent at starting cars. (Noco's have an override to jump even dead batteries, most need a partially charged battery in order to work, until you get up over the $200 range)
Anker makes excellent power banks, but they can't jump a car. I'd buy an inexpensive car jump like the Noco, Hulkman, or the like in the $100 range, and then buy a decent power bank like an Anker. (units in the 20000-36000maH range in the $20-$35 range on Amazon)
Really great idea, will be good to see what you finally put together, always need a field charger.
I'm going to have to rethink my plan. I went back to look for replacements and it looks like this company isn't the only one taking liberties with their marketing data.
@@RCVideoReviews I can believe that.
Cheap Chinese-made tat massively overstating its specifications -- who'd have thought? :-)
Right? This is my first personal experience with a device blatantly out of spec. I've seen a lot of "stretching the truth" but this is a straight-up lie.
I like the way you think; I’ve been considering something along this line for a lightweight field charging solution myself. I have a 10ah jump pack that took me down that train of thought. Mine has the bms built into a separate plug.
Unfortunately, I'm not happy with what I've figured out. There will be more about this on the PilotJam. As it stands, I'm switching v1 to a 24v power supply and will noodle on what to do about v2 which I really want to be self-contained.
Also the foam in the case that comes with smells like toxic horrible forever chemicals.
So, what jump pack/charger do you recommend?
I'd like to see which manufacturer you find that gives accurate specifications.... mostly because a lot of these do come from way out west, west, ocean, then west...
We spent time discussing this on the PilotJam. I cracked the code on what they're doing. Bottom line, they're calculating MAH based on ridiculously low voltage levels (~3.0v) and even then they're stretching the truth. I think this is one area Amazon needs to intervene and force some truthfulness. People are getting ripped off big time.
False advertisement? You can't rely on anything anymore that it will do what it says it can do. Great job John.
This one goes beyond stretching the truth a little. This is a straight-up fabrication. I went back to Amazon afterwards and this product category is rife with similar claims for similar size devices. I'm disappointed to be sure. This has to be the single most irrefutable case of false advertising I've ever seen.
Hi there I have a question can u send me a link where to purchase those 10,000 mah lipo batteries 🔋? Please if u don’t mind , what’s the C rating on those lipos you got ?
I bought them on hobbyking many years back. They are MultiStar batteries which is a hobbyking house brand they no longer sell.
@@RCVideoReviews
Thanks 🙏 for your quick response, and yes I saw sum there at hobby king but with low C rating I need some 10.000 with it least 75 and up C rating ,
Thanks though
Oh yeah, that's definitely not these. You need a 10,000MAH cell that can deliver 750 amps? Are you jumping a diesel engine with it?
@@RCVideoReviews
Yes , you read my mind , I used lipos to jumó start different varieties of cars but yes that’s what I need it leas 750amps
It’s cheaper to buy a lipo that can deliver the amps I need than to buy a jump pack that has false claims , which it’s a lot of jump packs that are very expensive and so far I’ve never have seen one that can deliver no more than 500 amps
Which jump starter would you recommend? I may use it for jump start if necessary, but I truly only want it to charge my phone. Which would be the best?
I wouldn't bother with a jump starter if all you want to do is charge your phone. Just get a nice powerbank.
@@RCVideoReviews I was thinking of getting the Gooloo 4000 since it says it can jump start and charge an iPhone up to 6 times. Is there any power bank you’d recommend?
They're commodities. Find a 24,000mah power bank. Forget the jump starters. Their marketing is disingenuous as they "technically" have high MAH ratings, they're doing it based on a 3v calculation.
useful information, thanks!
You’re welcome.
I’ve always know these chargers to not do great at charging thing.. they start my diesel truck fine .. but will only charge my cellphone maybe 2 times before dead.. I dunno why.. I use the micro start xp-10… starts my diesel 10 times no problem.. only charged iPhone like 2 maybe 3 times
Disappointing capacity results. Have you tried to start a car with a depleted battery which is what it's supposed to do ?
I've got a Turnigy 20,000mAh Battery Booster. When my Honda does not start (due to a discharged battery in below freezing temperatures) I use it to start my car. Works great. Not sure if the capacity is actually 20,000mAh (haven't tested it) but after a cold start the battery level indicator shows still full and is still high enough to do 3-4 more starts.
Just bought a smaller 13,800 for under $40 for the bike. Will test it once it arrives.
The only testing I did was what the video showed. I wanted it to use as a field charging powerbank. I don't have a dead car battery to test it out on, but Project Farm did a good video testing a bunch of these things which is where I got the idea to get one for RC use.
They claim 2400 peak amps which is a joke too. There's NO WAY the Li-Ion batteries could support that, and I didn't see any components inside that could have provided that level of current either. The battery mains were kind of thick, but the interface to the mains is an EC5 which has a 120a continuous/150a burst rating. 2400a would probably melt a hole through the thing.
@@RCVideoReviews Yeah that battery looked kinda small for a 12v pack (li-ion or Li-Po).
Before my smaller 1000 Amp Max Battery Booster gets here I got a hold of the Specs. It states that the 1000 amps can be drawn for 0.2 seconds. A car usually takes 150-300 Amps to start. Not sure if the smaller 1000A unit will start my car.. Pretty sure it will start the Harley.
I am very happy though with my HK Turnigy 20,000 mAh (Model T13) Battery Booster that states a Start Current of 480A and a peak Current of 900A.
Might be worthwhile building your own field pack.
BTW... I see that most units have a 13 Volt over discharge protection circuit.
@@lasersbee Does your HK actually provide 20,000mah though? It looks like so many of these others. I only need about 10a max, so amperage is not a big factor in my decision making for this setup. I want the power density as small as I can get it. In any event, I've just converted version 1 of this effort to a 24v dc power supply.
I would still like to do a battery powered option, but when I added-up the Li-Ion batteries to do this, it came out to $126 for 3s6p (3500*6=21,000) which isn't terrible, but it would not be a project I think most people would want to take on because it would require BMS, spot welding, etc...
@@RCVideoReviews what is BMS??
BMS stands for Battery Management System. Generally they're used to prevent overdischarge of a battery and they can be used to balance charge with just a single power input and no balance lead. They open the mains circuit when voltage decreases to a point to preserve the battery. Without a BMS you can discharge unprotected cells all the way to 0v which is really bad for Lithium based batteries.
Hi there my friend good video , it’s sad that we all been fooled in to many ways and level all jumó starters and many other electronics and other stuff it’s always miss represented with bs value marketing , I wish there was a real law that would sue this companies for making us pay high dollar for junk that they sell and to re inverse the money back to those that got screwed , because that’s how all this companies get rich outta ppl that doesn’t know any better , but i hope one day soon that will come true where we all stand up together to stop all this lies we been told , anyway good job and good video again I had bought lots of this kinda products and I’ve notice that the way this companies advertise their product like this one that say it’s 23000 mah it’s that they add all the number of the cells it’s in that jumó pack so for instants if the label 🏷 states that those are 6000 mah cells they add this 6000 by 4 times which it’s the 4 cells in that pack so when u add them it’ comes out at 24000 mah and that’s how they do it , and am saying this because I have had open every single one of my jumó packs just to do the same thing u just did to see if it really it’s what they said it is , but it’s not , the way I have found out to make a good jump pack it’s to buy ur own lipo batteries or lithium cell and u make ur own with better quality batteries and even know those are the same way not the real deal on their specs but it’s since u b making it it will b better
Seems they added an extra ZERO on the end of the mAh rating hoping nobody would notice
I think you're right. The math shows 4000mah is probably the case.
I see some misconceptions regarding this power bank. Firstly, ~99% of power banks are rated at 3.7V so 3.7V times 24000mah you get about 88W depends on the rated voltage of the cells. Second you are discharging at 15.5V times 3.25A you get about 50W considering power conversion losses I think your close to specs. Nice video anyway.
Except 3.7v is a useless metric to calculate MAH for a device intended to jumpstart 12v systems. This is marketing BS used to get people to buy a cheap set of batteries for way too much money. I know exactly how to conduct the equations and the sellers of these products are clearly using the technicalities of the formula to create marketing hype. Nice comment anyway.
Billd your own 18650 pack with a good bms and then you will have a better sistom with the capacity you want
I know I can do that. I’m trying to consider options others might find easy to implement. Spot welding 18650 cells isn’t everyone’s cup of tea.
I wonder if it can jump start a car for that matter.
They can work reasonably well if you leave them across the battery for a couple of minutes before cranking. They put enough charge into the battery to support the necessary cranking amps.
@project farm did a good video showing them jumping dead batteries. That's where I got the idea to grab one for a field charger: ruclips.net/video/ixWPx79g3yk/видео.html