Hi Ho, thanks for watching my video... it is amazing how many people forget the joy stick and it is such an amazing and simple improvement... I don't know why Canon doesn't activate it automatically
Thank you so much for this information. It has allowed me to understand the customization of my 7D mk2, and now it fits like a taylored suit. Such a clear and concise video. A true gift.
Always good to see you guys, always something to learn.. highlight tone priority eh... its been OFF forever, now going ON. Canon says it may increase noise, we'll see.
Thanks Janine. I've been using 4 of your hacks very successfully on my 90D for some time now but had overlooked the joystick for the focus points. It's sorted now & you have made an old man very happy ! All the best to you all from the UK - Ken.
Great tips thank you. For the much duller conditions we have here in the UK (especially in winter) I use dual back button focus for wildlife on a 5D MkIV. I set the [ * ] button to auto-focus, but with a shutter speed (1/2000th or 1/2500th) and an exposure compensation of +1 or more for birds in flight against a white sky or against a bright water surface. On the [AF-ON] button I set a shutter speed of 1/250, 1/500 or 1/1000th, which keeps the ISO down and so is good for birds in bushes, trees or on the ground. I can then switch quickly between the two shutter speed / compensation options. It takes a while to get used to it but it generally works well with a bit of practice.
Hi, that is quite an intense set up that you will definitely need to internalize... but that is the beauty about the optional customisation and it makes total sense
Thank’s for the tip to change the “Set button” function so I can now easily change the exposure compensation while in manual (99% of the time). I was struggling with that until now. For the focus settings on the “Star button” you can also assign that to the “DOF preview button”, there where your ring finger is. It is even faster than moving your thumb.
Hi Pieter, I am glad this trick helped you and thanks for sharing your inside. I must test that one out.... I guess it is all a matter of getting used to it.
Very useful tips, I have suffered with the star button locked exposure a few times over the past 2 or 3 years and it’s brilliant to finally find out what causes it. Thank you so much. Problem solved. 👍
i totally agree with the setups 👌. i'm a 7dmkll user for wildlife Photography (with a 150-600 Sigma sport), and recently bought a second body (Canon 90d) for backup lenses (shooting butterflies, insects and small reptiles), and i've comed to a conclusion...the 7dmkll is stil a beast, hard to beat!! 💪💪 Greetings from Portugal 🇵🇹 Keep up the good work and many thanks for sharing your experience.
I have the star button set to Eye-AF on my R6. And Eye-AF set to detect animals or people, whatever I'm shooting that day. Now I can easily switch between regular AF and Eye-AF. Absolute game changer.
Brilliant! I was under the impression that tracking sensitivity needed to be increased to improve tracking not reduced so that is a great trip. I have a pelagic trip (Southport Pelagics - Queensland, Australia) booked for Nov 7th so I will adjust mine and hopefully, this will help with BIF shots. As an aside, I saw your 1DX had quick-release shoulder strap fittings fitted. I bought some for my 1dX MK II and after about six weeks the small strings broke while I was carrying it. 1 DX MKII and 100-400 MK II went crashing to the ground! I was fortunate that only the lens cap was damaged but seriously these quick-release tabs are not strong enough for these cameras.
Thanks, John and we hope you have great success on your pelagics trip. Great fun! Thank you also for sharing the tip about the quick release tabs. Happy for you that it was only a lens cap...could have been a lot worse!
@@PangolinWildlife R5's animal(Bird) Eye AF, the AF tracking speed...are definitely excellent features to have for wildlife photography. You guys will love it. ;-)
Hi Simon, as soon as we can get our hands on it!!! We promise.... but Canon tries to keep the user recognisability high between bodies so I would assume that you can implement a lot of it on the R5 as well!
1600 iso is the practical maximum, 800 iso is preferred. You can use the programme called Topaz denoise to help, but going above these does still reduce image quality. You can use higher iso settings if your end product is a smaller quality item, e.g print on matt paper at 5 x 7 inch, then no one will notice too much. Sometimes the way to get a lower iso is to change the lens you use, or implement some different field techniques. For example I use a Manfrotto gimbal head with my Canon 400mm f5.6 lens and can get consistently sharp results at 1/200th second. Another technique I use often is to use mirror lock up and 2 second delay with the same 400mm lens and keep the tripod as low to the ground as possible. This is a hit and miss technique, but if the subject is not moving at all at the time of the shutter release (like a perched bird), then you can get consistently sharp photos at 1/30th second. these slower shutter speeds result in much lower iso settings.
Hi Janine, Thanks for your great video. I have a 5DMk4 and am having a problem with reassigning the Star button. When pressed, the focus area goes from single point to a 9 point focus point, but the lens doesn’t actually focus, no “beep” when pressed? I’ve obviously missed something but not sure what. Thank you Regards Stewart
Thanks for this Janine. My setup is very similar. A point I would be interested in is: What are your suggested AI Servo 1st and 2nd image priority settings?
Hi Ken, thanks for watching. My first image priority is always release as I feel I need to be fast and hope and think that my focus is pretty good. My 2nd is equal!
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 Thank you for your feedback Janine. I find Pangolin videos useful. They are relevant and to the point, and no unnecessary waffling. I usually have my Mk4 first priority set at +2 - I don't do a lot of wildlife photography but I do as much onstage ballet as I can, where I need quick focus and often darkish lighting - I must start varying these settings and see what benefits best. Thanks again for useful information.
Great tips thanks a lot. When I change my setting to D+ in the highlight tone priority, the camera uses ISO 200 as the lowest value when set to Auto iso. Is this correct? I am used to keep the iso as low as possible.
Yes, this is standard. If you're concentrating on the best possible image quality, hopefully you are exposing accurately so shouldn't need HTP anyway. It's more useful if you're shooting in a situation with rapidly changing light (like tracking a bird flying against dark and light backgrounds).
Still getting acquainted to my new body - no surgeons involved ;) - and things I think are good today might go out the window tomorrow. Will re-watch it later on, and see if I will trade any of my own alterations and custom controls. Super useful to see hands on what you do and what outcome to expect.
@@PangolinWildlife Will do. Coming from a 7D to a 1DX Mark III there's a lot that is changed and a buttload of new settings that haven't been available at all to me before. Good thing I didn't have to do much to get a proper backbutton focus in place, but now I also have to figure out how I want the 2nd backbutton to do its focusing and which method to use etc. Playing around is a must and using it a lot before the birds come back (northern hemisphere, spring on its way). When the birds really start flying I need to have a thorough understanding of where I should go with my thumb. If I have to stop to think, the birdy and the moment is gone. Right now aiming for a few different ways to have it set up, and then saving those settings to the card. That way I can fiddle around between those I think might work.
Hi Bill, I am so sorry but due to Covid our borders are still closed and I couldn't get my hands on one. I am heartbroken. But I know Canon tries to keep the user recognition up so I think that a good deal will be applicable to the R5 as well.....
Hi Barry, the 1Dxiii has it as well. It will drive your ISO minimum up some more and is particularly useful when you shoot JPEG. But in general it should be great if you don't insist on low ISOs
Hello! I have an R5. In the High Tone Prio, i have an additional option of D+2. They call it ENHANCED. However, they caution that this may increase the noise in the darker areas of the photo. Could i ask for your experience on this please? Thank you!
Hi Reg. Please check out all of Danielle's videos on our channel as she shoots Nikon. Here is her playlist: ruclips.net/p/PL9Vb8bfMUDtCndjGEgyLrs7DBeXLCjBaO
Hi Janine when I enable the "highlight tone priority" I can only select the auto ISO and can only select from 200 up to my limit of 6400 and no longer able to select 100,160, and 160 ISO's
You videos and knowledge are excellent. Please remember that it us not I-S-O but rather 'Iso' as it is not an acronym but 'Iso' as in the Greek 'equal'
I don’t know what “enabling highlight tone property” is but the “active D lighting” in nikons helps when photographing high dynamic range scenes. It brings back the lost detail in the shadows and highlights. Hope this helps ☺️
@@judedizon8666 "Enabling Highlight Tone Priority" is descibed by Janine in this video. And judging from your answer, to me it*s the same thing. Thank you!
You're no longer shooting in Manual if you use Auto I.S.O. Bwaaaaahahaha. In Auto modes you will have to constantly change exposure compensation even in constant light. Due to tonal changes in the background,foreground or when you move camera or during zooming. So this makes Manual Mode the most consistent and most affective method of shooting. Getting consistent exposures might not seem like a big deal at first, but think about how it affects your photography. If you are able to get predictable and repeatable results then you’re no longer rolling the dice - you’re just winning every time! Getting consistent results is especially important when shooting professionally. It can look awful if a sequence of photos in an album, or gallery are inconsistent in brightness. Some of this can be corrected with editing (especially if you’re shooting in raw), but really it’s a waste of your time to be trying to correct mistakes in editing that you could have easily gotten right in camera. I was photographing a Great White Egret standing in front of a Mangrove. The sunlight was coming from my camera right at about a twenty degree angle. The background was dark so I spot metered for the white Egret in manual mode. Opening up seven clicks with my shutter speed a +2 1/3 stops from the recommended setting. Fired my test shot then added one more click a +1/3 stop. I ETTR exposed as far to the right as possible to get as much light on my sensor. The Exposure was spot on, as I began to shoot the Egret took flight I pressed my back button to switch from one shot to ai-servo and continued to follow the Egret As it flew in front of the sky and being locked in manual mode the Egret remained perfectly exposed regardless of the Tonal changes in the background. I then noticed an Alligator in the same spot the Egret occupied just moments ago, I quickly focused on the Gator and got perfectly exposed shots of the Gator. In Auto mode whether I would've been in shutter/aperture preferred or Auto I.S.O. the camera would have adjusted the exposure automatically and all exposures would have been off. Because of TONAL CHANGES... notice I said " Tonal" and not light changes. The background can foul up your exposures just as quick as light changes. Even a slight camera position change or zooming in or out can affect Auto Modes. In Manual once exposure is set and your subject or subjects...in this case, remain in the same light the exposure is golden..
Hi Raven. Thanks for the heads up. Seems youtube now puts in mid-roll ads in by default (unless you opt-out) on videos that are of a certain length. Have found that setting and disengaged it as we are not doing this for ad revenue. The only ad we do is at the start as we think we have to play the game a bit to get seen ;-) Hope that won't happen again but thank you for letting us know. Please will you have another look from your side and let me know if they are gone. Cheers.
Any other tips or "hacks" you can share with the viewers?
This channel is one of the best on RUclips for wildlife photography
Thank you Riyaz. Much appreciated.
Thank you. Love the way you present the info so quickly and so well. Very useful tips that I will use.
Thanks for the idea of programming the SET button to adjust exposure compensation. This is a very fast way to make adjustments while shooting.
First time watching this, puré gold!!! Awesome tutorial Janine, thanks!!!!
Thank you, excellent video, very easy to follow along.
Thank you! You're videos are so helpful.
Hi Donna, I am so glad you are enjoying the videos.... have fun shooting
Thank You so much Janine.Fantastic tips.
You are so welcome!
Thank you Janine!
Great tip about exposure compensation with the set button ! I will change my settings when I photograph in manual mode thanks to you
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips, especially highlight tone priority. Will try that, much appreciated.
Hi Lachlan, it is primarily helpful if you shoot JPEG but also good if you use the Canon Editing Software
Another great video - thanks Janine 😃
I like the ability to use the joystick to shift the focusing points. Thank you 😊
Hi Ho, thanks for watching my video... it is amazing how many people forget the joy stick and it is such an amazing and simple improvement... I don't know why Canon doesn't activate it automatically
Great video! Thanks for sharing these tips.
You are so welcome!
These are fantastic! I’ll be applying these today on my 1Dx2. Thank you so much!
Hi, I am so glad that my tips and tricks helped you. Let me know how it impacts your shooting. Cheers Janine
This is brilliant video tutorial yet again. The oracle's of wildlife photography strike gold.
Thank you so much NikCan 😀
Really enjoy listening to your tips, Thanks.
Hi Lee, super glad these were helpful. Happy Shooting Janine
Thank you so much for this information. It has allowed me to understand the customization of my 7D mk2, and now it fits like a taylored suit. Such a clear and concise video. A true gift.
Hi Mark, I am so glad it helped. Enjoy shooting....
Always good to see you guys, always something to learn.. highlight tone priority eh... its been OFF forever, now going ON. Canon says it may increase noise, we'll see.
How is it that I have owned a 7D & 5D for more than a decade and yet you are teaching me things here ?!? Thank you Janine, so helpful!
Happy to help!
Thank You Janine!! for wonderful Camera Hack..I applied with my 7 d Mark 2
The set button one is a game changer. Thanks!
Hi Juvie, thank you so much for your feedback. It is my most crucial custom design... without it my photography wouldn't work... cheers Janine
Thanks Janine.
I've been using 4 of your hacks very successfully on my 90D for some time now but had overlooked the joystick for the focus points. It's sorted now & you have made an old man very happy !
All the best to you all from the UK - Ken.
Hi Ken, thanks for watching my video... it is amazing how many people forget the joy stick and it is such an amazing and simple improvement
Hi Janine, thanks very much for sharing your great invaluable Canon camera hacks. My photography journey is gonna be much more exciting !
Have fun Rodney - cheers janine
The tips on iso and tracking are great, thanks for sharing.
My pleasure!
Terrific video-so helpful
Thanks! Very helpful!
Interesting. You had some one I haven't considered before. Thanks so much.
Glad to help
Thank you! I will try these settings on my EOS 7D mk2!
Always learn something new --- many thanks
Glad to hear it!
Awesome tips! Love the iso on the set button. 📷👍🏼👍🏼
Glad it works for you and makes your workflow easier... cheers Janine
Nice instructional video. Many thanks.
Hi Nigel, super glad if it helped you out... cheers Janine
Thanks a lot Of Great settings
I have pretty much the same set up on my eos 7Dii.
Love the channel and hoping I can visit you chaps in the future.
Very useful thank you Janine!
You're so welcome!
Great tips, thanks!
You bet!
Great tips thank you. For the much duller conditions we have here in the UK (especially in winter) I use dual back button focus for wildlife on a 5D MkIV. I set the [ * ] button to auto-focus, but with a shutter speed (1/2000th or 1/2500th) and an exposure compensation of +1 or more for birds in flight against a white sky or against a bright water surface. On the [AF-ON] button I set a shutter speed of 1/250, 1/500 or 1/1000th, which keeps the ISO down and so is good for birds in bushes, trees or on the ground. I can then switch quickly between the two shutter speed / compensation options. It takes a while to get used to it but it generally works well with a bit of practice.
Hi, that is quite an intense set up that you will definitely need to internalize... but that is the beauty about the optional customisation and it makes total sense
Thanks so much was really helpfull.
Great tip on pressing the Q button to go quicker through the menu tabs
brilliant, thank you!!!!!!
Hi Gosse, I am so glad it helped. Enjoy shooting....
Thank’s for the tip to change the “Set button” function so I can now easily change the exposure compensation while in manual (99% of the time). I was struggling with that until now.
For the focus settings on the “Star button” you can also assign that to the “DOF preview button”, there where your ring finger is. It is even faster than moving your thumb.
Hi Pieter, I am glad this trick helped you and thanks for sharing your inside. I must test that one out.... I guess it is all a matter of getting used to it.
Very useful tips, I have suffered with the star button locked exposure a few times over the past 2 or 3 years and it’s brilliant to finally find out what causes it. Thank you so much. Problem solved. 👍
Hi Chris, yes it is quite a tricky thing that one doesn't notice easily. I am glad I could help
Brilliant video!
Thanks, great advice. Been using my 7dii setup exactely this way for years and nothing beats this setup
Hi Paul, I totally agree... isn't it wonderful how up to date the 7Dmkii still is
i totally agree with the setups 👌. i'm a 7dmkll user for wildlife Photography (with a 150-600 Sigma sport), and recently bought a second body (Canon 90d) for backup lenses (shooting butterflies, insects and small reptiles), and i've comed to a conclusion...the 7dmkll is stil a beast, hard to beat!! 💪💪 Greetings from Portugal 🇵🇹 Keep up the good work and many thanks for sharing your experience.
I have the star button set to Eye-AF on my R6. And Eye-AF set to detect animals or people, whatever I'm shooting that day. Now I can easily switch between regular AF and Eye-AF. Absolute game changer.
Lovely..... thank you 👍
You are welcome Dilan.
Useful tips. Very helpful
Thank you so much... I am very glad that it was helpful! Happy shooting
Great work 👌
Thank you so much 😀
Great hacks. Two are verry useful.
super glad it works for you!!! - cheers Janine
Excellent thank you
You are very welcome
Nice one Janine :)
It's a pleasure John.
Very good video. well explaining
Glad you liked it
Hi Janine,
Great video - thanks!
Would like to now how set control ring on R5 to kelvin - turn ring for warm and cool.
Brilliant! I was under the impression that tracking sensitivity needed to be increased to improve tracking not reduced so that is a great trip. I have a pelagic trip (Southport Pelagics - Queensland, Australia) booked for Nov 7th so I will adjust mine and hopefully, this will help with BIF shots.
As an aside, I saw your 1DX had quick-release shoulder strap fittings fitted. I bought some for my 1dX MK II and after about six weeks the small strings broke while I was carrying it. 1 DX MKII and 100-400 MK II went crashing to the ground! I was fortunate that only the lens cap was damaged but seriously these quick-release tabs are not strong enough for these cameras.
Thanks, John and we hope you have great success on your pelagics trip. Great fun!
Thank you also for sharing the tip about the quick release tabs. Happy for you that it was only a lens cap...could have been a lot worse!
Thanks.
Hi Evert, you are so welcome - cheers Janine
looking forward to your setup & hacks for the EOS R5 ;-)
So are we. ;-)
@@PangolinWildlife R5's animal(Bird) Eye AF, the AF tracking speed...are definitely excellent features to have for wildlife photography. You guys will love it. ;-)
Hi Simon, as soon as we can get our hands on it!!! We promise.... but Canon tries to keep the user recognisability high between bodies so I would assume that you can implement a lot of it on the R5 as well!
Again a great video, thanks! A bit off topic, but what is the maximum ISO you would recommend for the 7D mkii?
1600 iso is the practical maximum, 800 iso is preferred. You can use the programme called Topaz denoise to help, but going above these does still reduce image quality. You can use higher iso settings if your end product is a smaller quality item, e.g print on matt paper at 5 x 7 inch, then no one will notice too much. Sometimes the way to get a lower iso is to change the lens you use, or implement some different field techniques. For example I use a Manfrotto gimbal head with my Canon 400mm f5.6 lens and can get consistently sharp results at 1/200th second. Another technique I use often is to use mirror lock up and 2 second delay with the same 400mm lens and keep the tripod as low to the ground as possible. This is a hit and miss technique, but if the subject is not moving at all at the time of the shutter release (like a perched bird), then you can get consistently sharp photos at 1/30th second. these slower shutter speeds result in much lower iso settings.
Hi Ho, I would very much agree with Guy. My max was set on 3600 initially but the 7Dii isn't doing great on it....
Hi Janine,
Thanks for your great video.
I have a 5DMk4 and am having a problem with reassigning the Star button. When pressed, the focus area goes from single point to a 9 point focus point, but the lens doesn’t actually focus, no “beep” when pressed? I’ve obviously missed something but not sure what.
Thank you
Regards
Stewart
Thanks for this Janine. My setup is very similar.
A point I would be interested in is: What are your suggested AI Servo 1st and 2nd image priority settings?
Hi Ken, thanks for watching. My first image priority is always release as I feel I need to be fast and hope and think that my focus is pretty good. My 2nd is equal!
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 Thank you for your feedback Janine. I find Pangolin videos useful. They are relevant and to the point, and no unnecessary waffling. I usually have my Mk4 first priority set at +2 - I don't do a lot of wildlife photography but I do as much onstage ballet as I can, where I need quick focus and often darkish lighting - I must start varying these settings and see what benefits best. Thanks again for useful information.
Great tips thanks a lot. When I change my setting to D+ in the highlight tone priority, the camera uses ISO 200 as the lowest value when set to Auto iso. Is this correct? I am used to keep the iso as low as possible.
Yes, this is standard. If you're concentrating on the best possible image quality, hopefully you are exposing accurately so shouldn't need HTP anyway. It's more useful if you're shooting in a situation with rapidly changing light (like tracking a bird flying against dark and light backgrounds).
Still getting acquainted to my new body - no surgeons involved ;) - and things I think are good today might go out the window tomorrow. Will re-watch it later on, and see if I will trade any of my own alterations and custom controls.
Super useful to see hands on what you do and what outcome to expect.
Hi Jonas, let me know how it might go for you - cheers Janine
@@PangolinWildlife Will do. Coming from a 7D to a 1DX Mark III there's a lot that is changed and a buttload of new settings that haven't been available at all to me before. Good thing I didn't have to do much to get a proper backbutton focus in place, but now I also have to figure out how I want the 2nd backbutton to do its focusing and which method to use etc. Playing around is a must and using it a lot before the birds come back (northern hemisphere, spring on its way). When the birds really start flying I need to have a thorough understanding of where I should go with my thumb. If I have to stop to think, the birdy and the moment is gone.
Right now aiming for a few different ways to have it set up, and then saving those settings to the card. That way I can fiddle around between those I think might work.
Hello please tell me what settings to make on my 5D MARK IV to shoot an archery competition, and feel like freezing the arrow in flight. Thank you.
My Canon R5 just arrived so it is going to be a learning curve to adjust to mirrorless, any hints?
Hi Bill, I am so sorry but due to Covid our borders are still closed and I couldn't get my hands on one. I am heartbroken. But I know Canon tries to keep the user recognition up so I think that a good deal will be applicable to the R5 as well.....
Thank you. The EOS R6 has an enhanced Highlight Tone Priority D+2. Would this be better than just enable?
I have the same question, but with the EOS R
Hi Barry, the 1Dxiii has it as well. It will drive your ISO minimum up some more and is particularly useful when you shoot JPEG. But in general it should be great if you don't insist on low ISOs
Hello! I have an R5. In the High Tone Prio, i have an additional option of D+2. They call it ENHANCED. However, they caution that this may increase the noise in the darker areas of the photo. Could i ask for your experience on this please? Thank you!
💪
🙂🙃🙂
Have you got any hacks or tips for Nikon users.
Hi Reg. Please check out all of Danielle's videos on our channel as she shoots Nikon. Here is her playlist: ruclips.net/p/PL9Vb8bfMUDtCndjGEgyLrs7DBeXLCjBaO
Thanks for the video. The last point is not clear though. It's cut at 12:12
Great hacks. Any hacks for eos r
Hi Neil, we don't have an eos R at hand, I am sorry - but we will come out with quite a few reviews about the R5 and R6 soon - cheers Janine
These are great tips can’t do some of these tips I have t6i can’t afford 1,000 camera
keep on shooting anyways... it is more about having a good eye... cheers Janine
Hi Janine when I enable the "highlight tone priority" I can only select the auto ISO and can only select from 200 up to my limit of 6400 and no longer able to select 100,160, and 160 ISO's
Hello sir/madam
In which situation we use ISO +D? If you know please suggest me, thank you!
Hello, the reason for that is that Canon needs the extra bit of ISO to provide you with more light and therefore more detail in the highlights.
@@ChungbaSherpa Hi Chungba, it is primarily important if you shoot JPEG... but I just have it always turned on
Thank you Janine, Please tell me better for lowlight or highlight?
How do you access the register/recall shooting function menu?
Easiest through your quick menu
First
Congratulations!
OK 😎
OK! Thanks.
Are you getting something related to canon 90d??
We can do in the near future I think.
Hi Harman, these tips are general for Canon. They try to keep the user recognisability high so you should be able to apply this to the 90D
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 ya I know that but I am asking for a video like you did for 90d vs 7dmii will we get more video on 90d
You videos and knowledge are excellent. Please remember that it us not I-S-O but rather 'Iso' as it is not an acronym but 'Iso' as in the Greek 'equal'
Hi... thanks so much - I wasn't even aware of that. See, we never stop learning! - cheers Janine
Is "Enabling Highlights Tone Priority" equal to "Active D-Lighting" in the Nikon world?
I don’t know what “enabling highlight tone property” is but the “active D lighting” in nikons helps when photographing high dynamic range scenes. It brings back the lost detail in the shadows and highlights. Hope this helps ☺️
@@judedizon8666 "Enabling Highlight Tone Priority" is descibed by Janine in this video. And judging from your answer, to me it*s the same thing. Thank you!
@@leifsvantesson1659 yikes I tried to watch the video whilst changing a diaper and I guess I must’ve missed a lot 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
@@judedizon8666 😂
I believe it is very similar... we will have some Nikon tips coming out soon
Nice..but my camera is simple also lense hehe
Good for future reference then I suppose.
@@PangolinWildlife yes agree
In two years and R cameras some of these tricks are obsolete.
HI
Another “hack”: get a mirrorless body (R5 or R6) and now you have three wheels plus the one on the lens. You can now change everything in M mode.
Valid point!
Hi Ray, I am so sorry but due to Covid our borders are still closed and I couldn't get my hands on one. I am heartbroken... very good tip though
That's not a hack. Hacks are about getting the best out of the equipment you already have.
You're no longer shooting in Manual if you use Auto I.S.O.
Bwaaaaahahaha.
In Auto modes you will have to constantly change exposure compensation even in constant light.
Due to tonal changes in the background,foreground or when you move camera or during zooming. So this makes Manual Mode the most consistent and most affective method of shooting.
Getting consistent exposures might not seem like a big deal at first, but think about how it affects your photography. If you are able to get predictable and repeatable results then you’re no longer rolling the dice - you’re just winning every time!
Getting consistent results is especially important when shooting professionally. It can look awful if a sequence of photos in an album, or gallery are inconsistent in brightness. Some of this can be corrected with editing (especially if you’re shooting in raw), but really it’s a waste of your time to be trying to correct mistakes in editing that you could have easily gotten right in camera.
I was photographing a Great White Egret standing in front of a Mangrove. The sunlight was coming from my camera right at about a twenty degree angle. The background was dark so I spot metered for the white Egret in manual mode. Opening up seven clicks with my shutter speed a +2 1/3 stops from the recommended setting. Fired my test shot then added one more click a +1/3 stop. I ETTR exposed as far to the right as possible to get as much light on my sensor.
The Exposure was spot on, as I began to shoot the Egret took flight I pressed my back button to switch from one shot to ai-servo and continued to follow the Egret
As it flew in front of the sky and being locked in manual mode the Egret remained perfectly exposed regardless of the Tonal changes in the background. I then noticed an Alligator in the same spot the Egret occupied just moments ago, I quickly focused on the Gator and got perfectly exposed shots of the Gator.
In Auto mode whether I would've been in shutter/aperture preferred or Auto I.S.O. the camera would have adjusted the exposure automatically and all exposures would have been off. Because of TONAL CHANGES... notice I said " Tonal" and not light changes. The background can foul up your exposures just as quick as light changes. Even a slight camera position change or zooming in or out can affect Auto Modes.
In Manual once exposure is set and your subject or subjects...in this case, remain in the same light the exposure is golden..
I like the vid but 5 sets of 2 ads is pushing it
Hi Raven. Thanks for the heads up. Seems youtube now puts in mid-roll ads in by default (unless you opt-out) on videos that are of a certain length. Have found that setting and disengaged it as we are not doing this for ad revenue. The only ad we do is at the start as we think we have to play the game a bit to get seen ;-) Hope that won't happen again but thank you for letting us know. Please will you have another look from your side and let me know if they are gone. Cheers.
Just editing / hardware . No photography