Did you ever used Lacquer paints? I mean, you can only clean the pain with lacquer thinner. unfortunately lacquer tend to melt rubber...I mean, the little seal could be a problem?
Unfortunately not when I made this video. But it’s quite old now, and meanwhile I build some models using lacquer paints. And indeed: this airbrush, and any other airbrush from H&S that has the same nozzle system, isn’t really usable for lacquer paints. The o-ring, as you said, is made of rubber, and will get melt super easy while cleaning. I purchased an Iwata High Performance HP-B Plus some time ago. Beside being a better and more expensive airbrush then the evolution, Iwata airbrushes don’t have a rubber piece in their nozzle system, so it’s much more safe to use lacquer paints. Nevertheless, every airbrush have o-rings, so always be careful when cleaning them after spraying these kind of paints. Also, don’t use lacquer cleaner / thinner when cleaning the airbrush in a supersonic cleaner, it will destroy every o-ring (and maybe even the airbrush). I’ll pin you post if others come around and have the same question, unfortunately I can’t edit the video itself. Thanks for pointing that out. Tl;dr: H&S airbrushes aren’t made for lacquer paints.
Airbrush cleaner brushes. At least that’s what they are called on Amazon (www.amazon.co.uk/Agora-Tec-airbrush-AT-ACS-01-different-cleaning/dp/B00AHDWNGE)
After every spraying session. You don’t want dry paint in your airbrush if you plan to use it for a long time. If you want to change color after applying another one, you just can spray some cleaner through it and make sure the nozzle cap is clean (use a cotton swab or an old brush while pressing the needle back, don’t push the trigger, just pull it back. You don’t want airflow while doing so ). I know it’s time consuming, but after a few tries the whole process can be done in 3-5 minutes. I also suggest to deep clean your airbrush every few weeks (or later, depending on how much you use it) with a supersonic cleaner and with cotton swabs around the trigger point inside the main body part (best accessible from the back).
@@markvelber8664 it’s both possible, before and after. It’s not really safer todo it before cleaning, if you pull out the needle on the backside then paint will stuck in the back of your airbrush, and that’s a harder place to clean. If you pull it out in the front (you can still do so by holding it at the end of the needle) the top of the needle won’t come in contact with the back of the airbrush. If you put the needle in in the front backwards then you still have a bending risk (now that I think of it), and you still have to pull it a bit more back into the paint holder area, since you still need to put the nozzle on top (risking breaking the top of the needle, which is the weakest part of it). Nevertheless, both ways works and both have some risk (but I would pull it out of the back before cleaning as said). Needles can break easily and should handled with care, no matter which way you go. You can try both, and see what works best for you. It’s also always a good idea to have a replacement needle and nozzle at home (I know, they are pricy).
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Thanks mate, one last question If you don't mind me asking, which brand of the lubricant would you use after the cleaning process and which area of the airbrush would you recommend to be lubricant? Thank
@@markvelber8664 Good question. Unfortunately i don't have a good answer to that. I'm still using that one that did come with my Iwata airbrush, that works like a charm. I use it only for the trigger so far after it got harder to pull. For the rest parts i do a deep clean with a supersonic cleaner from time to time (every months or so).
Did you ever used Lacquer paints? I mean, you can only clean the pain with lacquer thinner.
unfortunately lacquer tend to melt rubber...I mean, the little seal could be a problem?
Unfortunately not when I made this video. But it’s quite old now, and meanwhile I build some models using lacquer paints. And indeed: this airbrush, and any other airbrush from H&S that has the same nozzle system, isn’t really usable for lacquer paints. The o-ring, as you said, is made of rubber, and will get melt super easy while cleaning. I purchased an Iwata High Performance HP-B Plus some time ago. Beside being a better and more expensive airbrush then the evolution, Iwata airbrushes don’t have a rubber piece in their nozzle system, so it’s much more safe to use lacquer paints. Nevertheless, every airbrush have o-rings, so always be careful when cleaning them after spraying these kind of paints. Also, don’t use lacquer cleaner / thinner when cleaning the airbrush in a supersonic cleaner, it will destroy every o-ring (and maybe even the airbrush). I’ll pin you post if others come around and have the same question, unfortunately I can’t edit the video itself. Thanks for pointing that out.
Tl;dr: H&S airbrushes aren’t made for lacquer paints.
Very good video with a clear plus Simplicity !!!
Thank you :)
Straightforward, easy to follow no worries.
It’s so helpful, thanks!
Excellent! I’ve literally just purchased this brush today!
It's my favorite :) Hope i could help a bit and have fun with your airbrush :)
What are those nail brush things you use on the nozzle cap 1:48
Airbrush cleaner brushes. At least that’s what they are called on Amazon (www.amazon.co.uk/Agora-Tec-airbrush-AT-ACS-01-different-cleaning/dp/B00AHDWNGE)
how often to clean like this?
After every spraying session. You don’t want dry paint in your airbrush if you plan to use it for a long time. If you want to change color after applying another one, you just can spray some cleaner through it and make sure the nozzle cap is clean (use a cotton swab or an old brush while pressing the needle back, don’t push the trigger, just pull it back. You don’t want airflow while doing so ). I know it’s time consuming, but after a few tries the whole process can be done in 3-5 minutes. I also suggest to deep clean your airbrush every few weeks (or later, depending on how much you use it) with a supersonic cleaner and with cotton swabs around the trigger point inside the main body part (best accessible from the back).
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels thanks for detailed answer man
Can't, you insert the needle backward after cleaning It would be safer?
You mean before putting the nozzle inside? Yes, sure, that also works (and is indeed safer for the needle).
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels before and after the cleaning is it possible and safer?
@@markvelber8664 it’s both possible, before and after. It’s not really safer todo it before cleaning, if you pull out the needle on the backside then paint will stuck in the back of your airbrush, and that’s a harder place to clean. If you pull it out in the front (you can still do so by holding it at the end of the needle) the top of the needle won’t come in contact with the back of the airbrush. If you put the needle in in the front backwards then you still have a bending risk (now that I think of it), and you still have to pull it a bit more back into the paint holder area, since you still need to put the nozzle on top (risking breaking the top of the needle, which is the weakest part of it). Nevertheless, both ways works and both have some risk (but I would pull it out of the back before cleaning as said). Needles can break easily and should handled with care, no matter which way you go. You can try both, and see what works best for you. It’s also always a good idea to have a replacement needle and nozzle at home (I know, they are pricy).
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Thanks mate, one last question If you don't mind me asking, which brand of the lubricant would you use after the cleaning process and which area of the airbrush would you recommend to be lubricant? Thank
@@markvelber8664 Good question. Unfortunately i don't have a good answer to that. I'm still using that one that did come with my Iwata airbrush, that works like a charm. I use it only for the trigger so far after it got harder to pull. For the rest parts i do a deep clean with a supersonic cleaner from time to time (every months or so).
Scale models are used more by Harder Steinbeck. Especially Modelers do not prefer the Iwata Eclipse series anymore.