Now that you've set them up using the 0.050 method, go and repeat using the peak lift method, You'll find that there's several degrees difference between no 1 and no 4 Aftermarket gears rarely if ever have the zero marks on zero. The idea is to change the gears first, set them up properly on the stock cams, remark zero then swap cams afterwards noting any differences. Your degree numbers, that's cam degrees, times by 2 to get crank degrees. That's a lot, you've go ta big problem there.
To degree properly you need a solid cam tensioner and remove all but one rocker from each cam. That reduces the spring loading and gives more repeatable results.
Timing belts don't stretch. The engine stretches as it gets hotter, the belt gets tighter, not looser .Got to set the solid tensioner tight for cam degreeing and set it loose for running. Too tight and you'll kill lots of parts.
I go over it towards the end of the video when I show the squared boxes on the paper. Your results may vary based on manufacturing variations, head gaskets used, how many times your heads have been decked etc.. Front exhaust gear - advance 4.45 Front intake gear - advance 1.78 Rear exhaust gear - advance 2.73 Rear intake gear - advance 4.70
![3 Easy Techniques to Find TDC | Cam Degreeing [#FREELESSON]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hh4XxSmLBoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Now that you've set them up using the 0.050 method, go and repeat using the peak lift method, You'll find that there's several degrees difference between no 1 and no 4 Aftermarket gears rarely if ever have the zero marks on zero. The idea is to change the gears first, set them up properly on the stock cams, remark zero then swap cams afterwards noting any differences. Your degree numbers, that's cam degrees, times by 2 to get crank degrees. That's a lot, you've go ta big problem there.
To degree properly you need a solid cam tensioner and remove all but one rocker from each cam. That reduces the spring loading and gives more repeatable results.
Great video… very thorough and informative! Thank you for sharing
Hey there, Good stuff...what was that tensioner for a KIA, have a part number or what make and model it was for? Thanks.
I got it from Revenge. I believe it is GMB 4461101.
Timing belts don't stretch. The engine stretches as it gets hotter, the belt gets tighter, not looser .Got to set the solid tensioner tight for cam degreeing and set it loose for running. Too tight and you'll kill lots of parts.
Nor do you need a solid lash adjuster, use a normal one, bleed it down, put a washer under it to make it just solid
What were your final settings?
I go over it towards the end of the video when I show the squared boxes on the paper. Your results may vary based on manufacturing variations, head gaskets used, how many times your heads have been decked etc..
Front exhaust gear - advance 4.45
Front intake gear - advance 1.78
Rear exhaust gear - advance 2.73
Rear intake gear - advance 4.70