nice job ! great technique for self taught , i dug up a cast iron (main) pipe that was oxy /ace brazed a steel nipple (service) that was installed in the 1930 the bead was perfect , that was 30 years ago still remember how great that was , thank you for sharing your knowledge
I am a expert welder , retired over 35 years , only time finger oil will mess with metal types is aluminum, but still its not a major problem, like you said by the time the heat gets to it most if it will be gone , but oil is used as a hardening technique , but yeah silver solder , bronze brazing rods , nickel rods , SS cast iron rods are just some of the things you can use to weld cast iron, theres a hundred different ways , but finger oil is not a problem only in aluminum welding and it would take a lot of finger oil then ....
With it still clamped to the table? Or would you have to unclamp it? Think I would do like you said and leave it clamped, maybe cover it while it's clamped.🇺🇸🙋
Loved how you gave us hope... I have a broken exhaust manifold waiting to be repaired... I fixed a manifold with arc welding before... bad idea... it broke. But brazing... now I have hope!
Great video, Great job and a big HI from Great Britain.....back in the Late 70s I got court by my boss brazing the same sort of thing when I was an engineering apprentice for my car....brings back good old memories😁
Good job, and good video. What a useful skill to have. Sometimes it’s not to save money, it’s because you simply can not get this part, and fixing it is the simplest solution. I watched this video because I am in this situation. I will learn this skill, and fix cast iron parts. Thank you for this.
Last time i brazed a cast iron I preheated the part on a charcoal fire. Then I decarboned the part by heating it to dull red with a slightly oxidizing flame in an acytelene torch. Then I fluxed everything and brazed it up with bronze rod. The rod was the same I used to fill the gouges in Swift Boat propellers.
Looks like good prep work for brazing cast iron. I use a rose bud on my oxy acetylene rig to preheat so no need to decarbonize, but for some parts I could see how that would be beneficial.
Oxidizing flame is the key. Graphihte migrates through the pearlite and escapes as CO2. I loved hearing about Swift Boat propellers. Was that red brass with arsenic added?
good work, isn't that something, against the odds of contamination, non uniform pre or post heat. my dad used to braze almost everything like air compressor tanks (and they'd crack again yrs later, he'd braze them again,) natural gas heat exchangers, vents, grinder motor housings, he built us kids his own rolled up sheet metal into tuned exhaust pipes for hodaka 100s. I seriously believe "over thinking" the problems on a microscopic or universal sized level only brings those problems into existence instead of split logs.
I agree with your "overthinking" theory. I have now switched to "under-thinking." I get more work done, it's more fun, and I don't make as many mistakes trying to follow an overthought plan.
I thought you were doing a great job of preheating but I surely thought you were going to turn this down to a neutral flame before you started brazing nice job, it worked out
Instead of turning it down I just move the flame around in small circles more after pre-heating to melt the brass & keep the cast iron hot enough to accept the brass.
@@brianmaddox8864 sorry I just saw your post, there are three basic flames, oxidizing, neutral, and carburizing. Excess oxygen, even mix, and acetylene rich, respectively. I was referring to a more neutral to oxidizing flame, but not a carbonized flame. Much on this is available on youtube
The rods you use for braze welding are actually bronze not brass and anytime you’re doing something like that you really should clean the top edges /surface of the joint back so the filler metal can bond on top as well not just in the joint.
I’m used to brazing stainless steel, copper and brass parts together but tend to run the braze rather than blob it on, is this how you have to braze cast iron or is this someone who’s more used to welding?
I think I was asking if this is the recognised way of brazing cast iron as I’m only used to brazing nonferrous metals which tend to need pre fluxing then running the brazing rod instead of the way you’re doing it, just curious that’s all.
@@marksellers2939 There are several ways to do this with good results. This is the one that has worked best for me. You can add enough brass so that it can be ground down & smoothed out. It takes more time & brass with no added benefits except cosmetic so I live with the blobs.
People use them for welding steel, mild steel, auto body. It works, but it's not the best, it's not welding rod! Welding rod contains things to help the weld action, deoxidizers, silicon... None of that has anything to do with brazing! So the short answer is "NO!".
It's a flux-coated bronze rod. An electrode carries electricity. There ARE stick electrodes and MIG wire for this service also, but here it's fire all the way.
I've done a lot of brazing, it was a long time ago. I'm not sure I agree with your method. You seem to be using the brazing rod as welding stick. I'm my experience its more like silver soldering. Prefluxing surfaces is crucial. I wouldn't chamfer back the crack either. You want the bronze (not brass) to flow in, like soldering copper plumbing. The molten bronze flows where there is flux and where the metal is hot enough to keep it liquid.
Very nicely done video. I have a Chevy head that I was careless in machining a spring seat and accidentally hit the water jacket. Do you think brazing would be effective for a place like that. The bad cut is on the outer perimeter of the spring seat, about 1/166" wide and 1/4" long.
cam32112 loved your video, but 14psi on acetylene curls my toes! I think something was seriously misunderstood there, and you should double check. Anything over 10 would make a pro nervous. Something like 5-7 is more like it.
ok thanks :) seems a good solid repair buddy. how do you think it would hold up on a high performance engine, ( 280bhp? ) i can imagine there is alot more back pressure to contend with
I've always turned away customers who wanted cast iron repairs, brazing or welding. It is tough to impossible to weld even for someone who has been welding 40 years.
@@Spiritof_76 Oh, at the beginning of the movie the fellow talks about how the "gas" - gasoline - has gotten so bad... One of the things they do these days is put ethanol into the gasoline to enhance octane and reduce carbon monoxide, etc. BUT, since it is a bio fuel, the stuff deteriorates and hence after time the gas, as a unit, gets "wrecked", and is no longer good for its intended purpose. Putting a stabilizer in the fuel if one intends to leave the unit sitting for a season is a good idea, it helps slow down the entrophy. Now with "dependant", I simply meant this, the "preppers" cannot really store gas away, as it deteriorates. sigh... Anyways, just tried to answer your question:)
How high should the quality of gas be? How much would it cost if it were higher quality? We are already buying the heck out of it and are entirely dependent on it now matter what the quality is. At least they took the lead out (after resisting for 15 years.)
@@Spiritof_76 You know, if you would like to save some, the best thing one can do is get premium and then put fuel stabilizer in it. All gas is prone to deteriorate. The second law of thermodynamics effects just about everything.
Leaving it clamped up over night is "very important"? Completely, I mean completely not necessary. Braze cast every day with great results. Matter of fact, as soon as job is cool to touch we put certain parts in latrh to true up the matting surfaces. Ya, let me go tell my boss we need to keep this customers job over night in clamps and not only will he laugh at me but, I won't have a job anymore.
You & your boss can crank out all the sub-standard same day cast iron repair you want. Letting the part cool as long as possible only increases strength of repair. 40+ years of experience. How about you?
nice job ! great technique for self taught , i dug up a cast iron (main) pipe that was oxy /ace brazed a steel nipple (service) that was installed in the 1930 the bead was perfect , that was 30 years ago still remember how great that was , thank you for sharing your knowledge
I am a expert welder , retired over 35 years , only time finger oil will mess with metal types is aluminum, but still its not a major problem, like you said by the time the heat gets to it most if it will be gone , but oil is used as a hardening technique , but yeah silver solder , bronze brazing rods , nickel rods , SS cast iron rods are just some of the things you can use to weld cast iron, theres a hundred different ways , but finger oil is not a problem only in aluminum welding and it would take a lot of finger oil then ....
Nice job! Nice build on the splitter as well to the man who constructed it!
My dad used brass brazing,it always worked very well. I wish I would have picked up on the trait. Good job. Good video.
burying the part in sand after braising can also even the rate at which the part cools, and can help prevent warping and cracking of the cast iron.
Very good recommendation. I may try that in the future. Thanks!
With it still clamped to the table? Or would you have to unclamp it? Think I would do like you said and leave it clamped, maybe cover it while it's clamped.🇺🇸🙋
Loved how you gave us hope... I have a broken exhaust manifold waiting to be repaired... I fixed a manifold with arc welding before... bad idea... it broke. But brazing... now I have hope!
Great video, Great job and a big HI from Great Britain.....back in the Late 70s I got court by my boss brazing the same sort of thing when I was an engineering apprentice for my car....brings back good old memories😁
Thank you & a big HI from the States!
Excellent job. Thanks for sharing.
Good job, and good video. What a useful skill to have. Sometimes it’s not to save money, it’s because you simply can not get this part, and fixing it is the simplest solution. I watched this video because I am in this situation. I will learn this skill, and fix cast iron parts. Thank you for this.
You are most welcome. I learned from my father & grandfather to fix rather than throw away!
Last time i brazed a cast iron I preheated the part on a charcoal fire. Then I decarboned the part by heating it to dull red with a slightly oxidizing flame in an acytelene torch. Then I fluxed everything and brazed it up with bronze rod. The rod was the same I used to fill the gouges in Swift Boat propellers.
Looks like good prep work for brazing cast iron. I use a rose bud on my oxy acetylene rig to preheat so no need to decarbonize, but for some parts I could see how that would be beneficial.
Great info thx for posting!
Oxidizing flame is the key. Graphihte migrates through the pearlite and escapes as CO2. I loved hearing about Swift Boat propellers. Was that red brass with arsenic added?
Cast iron filler rods, Arc 60 amps low n slow, no preheat
They've worked for me, great stress test results too.
My grandfather used the same method you describe with good results. I just never got the hang of arc welding & no longer own one.
My home only 30a on currency Not working Arc welding
Thanks for sharing. Nice work!
Nice work. Are you using silicabronze? I heard of aluminium bronze but not for exhaust manifolds
Nice video. Most informative.
Nice Work, This was a very helpful video. Thanks
... and like he said.
Thank you, great vid
I have always wondered if this was possible, thanks for the tutorial!
nice job,,, you speak clearly ,,,what tip were you using , looked like a lot o flame
Nice job! Braising is very strong. Harley-Davidson frames use to be braised.
I stick welded a 1947 chevy in line six with a nickle rod 37 years ago, still holding fine
very well done. Thanks!
... like he said.
Awesomely done great 📹 video!
Thanks Jason!
good work, isn't that something, against the odds of contamination, non uniform pre or post heat. my dad used to braze almost everything like air compressor tanks (and they'd crack again yrs later, he'd braze them again,) natural gas heat exchangers, vents, grinder motor housings, he built us kids his own rolled up sheet metal into tuned exhaust pipes for hodaka 100s. I seriously believe "over thinking" the problems on a microscopic or universal sized level only brings those problems into existence instead of split logs.
I agree with your "overthinking" theory. I have now switched to "under-thinking." I get more work done, it's more fun, and I don't make as many mistakes trying to follow an overthought plan.
I learn something new everyday . Now I need to get busy .
Job well done.
Nice job! Thanks for the video!😇😁🙋
Thanks!
I thought you were doing a great job of preheating but I surely thought you were going to turn this down to a neutral flame before you started brazing nice job, it worked out
Thanks Joe!
Instead of turning it down I just move the flame around in small circles more after pre-heating to melt the brass & keep the cast iron hot enough to accept the brass.
In welding school they called it a carburizing flame
@@brianmaddox8864 sorry I just saw your post, there are three basic flames, oxidizing, neutral, and carburizing. Excess oxygen, even mix, and acetylene rich, respectively. I was referring to a more neutral to oxidizing flame, but not a carbonized flame. Much on this is available on youtube
Thanks for the video.
Good job that’s a hard job to do
For what it does that will work just fine
Please what kind of brazing rod on it thanks
Excellent job, was that brass or bronze, and did you use a flux ?
Thanks. The white coating over the brass rod is the flux. You can buy it with or without flux but I like to have both together.
Good job
The rods you use for braze welding are actually bronze not brass and anytime you’re doing something like that you really should clean the top edges /surface of the joint back so the filler metal can bond on top as well not just in the joint.
That engine is still going strong with that repaired part, but there is nothing wrong with being more thorough with any prep work.
It's brass but most welders call it bronze for some crazy reason. Brass does not flow.
@@bingosunnoon9341 Kinda like P-5 welding rods. The box clearly says 5-P, go figure.
Why not silver solder? I have never tried but have read that it works.
I think that the melting point of silver solder is too low & not as strong as brass. I could be wrong. I had brass & it worked fine.
won't stand the exhaust temp
I’m used to brazing stainless steel, copper and brass parts together but tend to run the braze rather than blob it on, is this how you have to braze cast iron or is this someone who’s more used to welding?
This is how I have done it for over 40 years with no problems or failures. I'm not sure what you are asking.
I think I was asking if this is the recognised way of brazing cast iron as I’m only used to brazing nonferrous metals which tend to need pre fluxing then running the brazing rod instead of the way you’re doing it, just curious that’s all.
@@marksellers2939 There are several ways to do this with good results. This is the one that has worked best for me. You can add enough brass so that it can be ground down & smoothed out. It takes more time & brass with no added benefits except cosmetic so I live with the blobs.
Good job, good thing using brazing instead of welding won't get cracking.
It's a solid alternative!
@@cam32112 lt is, l don't have acetylene l do my brazing using bits of fire bricks and a venturi Propane burner.
Just curious would a metal coat hanger work in a pinch
People use them for welding steel, mild steel, auto body. It works, but it's not the best, it's not welding rod! Welding rod contains things to help the weld action, deoxidizers, silicon... None of that has anything to do with brazing! So the short answer is "NO!".
Very interesting.
Where are you located? I have a metal shear in OC that’s cracked. I would like it braised by a pro..
South East Idaho not far from Yellowstone.
Is that a electrode your using? If so what number electrode? does it matter which electrode you use?
Is your question for me or RuMple StilTsKiN?
It's a flux-coated bronze rod. An electrode carries electricity. There ARE stick electrodes and MIG wire for this service also, but here it's fire all the way.
I've done a lot of brazing, it was a long time ago. I'm not sure I agree with your method. You seem to be using the brazing rod as welding stick. I'm my experience its more like silver soldering. Prefluxing surfaces is crucial. I wouldn't chamfer back the crack either. You want the bronze (not brass) to flow in, like soldering copper plumbing. The molten bronze flows where there is flux and where the metal is hot enough to keep it liquid.
Been doing it that way for over 40 years & no failures even on engine blocks. You are over thinking this whole process. Watch & learn!
It's brass. Never seen bronze used for brazing.
I agree with Simon, exactly my thoughts.
You used brass, not bronze????
Yes. Brass rod with flux in different sizes available at most hardware stores. Bronze.......not so much!
can you repair cast iron with mapp gas and a brazing rod?
yes
which filler rod do you use?
Flux covered 1/8" brass rod available at welding shops & better hardware stores.
Thank you
Very nicely done video. I have a Chevy head that I was careless in machining a spring seat and accidentally hit the water jacket. Do you think brazing would be effective for a place like that. The bad cut is on the outer perimeter of the spring seat, about 1/166" wide and 1/4" long.
I'm not very familiar with that kind of repair but if it's a spring seat & not a valve seat I think it would work.
Are you running regulators at 7 and 35?I see people running different pressures for brazing.Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
actually I run at 14 & 32. A friend who is a licensed welder told me those are good settings for brazing.
sorry - what is 7 and 35....or 14 and 32???
The pressures on the regulators for the acetylene and oxygen
14 is very close to the maximum... At or above 15 psi acetylene becomes dangerously unstable
cam32112 loved your video, but 14psi on acetylene curls my toes! I think something was seriously misunderstood there, and you should double check. Anything over 10 would make a pro nervous. Something like 5-7 is more like it.
Thanks
would’ve been cooler if you had a tinted lens for the camera so we could actually see what’s goin on. good job otherwise
how strong is this?
Well is has been in use for over 6 months without any problems so I'm happy with this repair so far.
ok thanks :) seems a good solid repair buddy. how do you think it would hold up on a high performance engine, ( 280bhp? )
i can imagine there is alot more back pressure to contend with
Cast iron is tough to weld
It can be very challenging & as with most things of this nature practice is the best way to get better at it.
I've always turned away customers who wanted cast iron repairs, brazing or welding. It is tough to impossible to weld even for someone who has been welding 40 years.
Gasoline in California hasn't changed in many many years. What are you talking about?
Cast iron should be cryogenically treated like aluminum bats.
Yes in perfect world maybe, but this video is meant to get something repaired & back working again with minimal down time.
2:17 Exhaust manifolds on what? Small engines only?
@ 3:29 BWAHAHA! Hey, at least it wasn't a flywheel, eh? HEHE
Sorry if I forgot to put that in the description. It was a Honda 13 HP engine on a log splitter.
cam32112
I've heard both that you can and can't do this for automotive applications.
I have seen auto & truck exhaust brazed as well as engine blocks. It's all in the prep work & execution.
Please--in future vids, less talk more action. But, I learned a lot.--Thanks
Yeah I like to talk but will try to keep it to a minimum in future videos.
Direction is good, and so is background info. Maybe a split screen with text or video of close ups and materials while prep and fill is done.
Cool vid
Sorry but yeah..6 minutes to get to the action lol
The low quality gas is done on purpose... keep us buying, and keeps us dependant:(
What low quality gas?
@@Spiritof_76 Oh, at the beginning of the movie the fellow talks about how the "gas" - gasoline - has gotten so bad... One of the things they do these days is put ethanol into the gasoline to enhance octane and reduce carbon monoxide, etc. BUT, since it is a bio fuel, the stuff deteriorates and hence after time the gas, as a unit, gets "wrecked", and is no longer good for its intended purpose. Putting a stabilizer in the fuel if one intends to leave the unit sitting for a season is a good idea, it helps slow down the entrophy. Now with "dependant", I simply meant this, the "preppers" cannot really store gas away, as it deteriorates. sigh... Anyways, just tried to answer your question:)
How high should the quality of gas be? How much would it cost if it were higher quality? We are already buying the heck out of it and are entirely dependent on it now matter what the quality is. At least they took the lead out (after resisting for 15 years.)
@@Spiritof_76 You know, if you would like to save some, the best thing one can do is get premium and then put fuel stabilizer in it. All gas is prone to deteriorate. The second law of thermodynamics effects just about everything.
@@Ironfurnaceroom Yes, I agree with the premium fuel and stabilizer. That would 50% (or more) increase the price compared to cheap unleaded.
Gorilla weld ugly but strong 💪 👏 😂
Leaving it clamped up over night is "very important"? Completely, I mean completely not necessary. Braze cast every day with great results. Matter of fact, as soon as job is cool to touch we put certain parts in latrh to true up the matting surfaces. Ya, let me go tell my boss we need to keep this customers job over night in clamps and not only will he laugh at me but, I won't have a job anymore.
You & your boss can crank out all the sub-standard same day cast iron repair you want. Letting the part cool as long as possible only increases strength of repair. 40+ years of experience. How about you?