Best Method To Heat Your Greenhouse | Don't Waste Your Hard Earned Money
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- Опубликовано: 4 янв 2021
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You made me laugh several times. In 2018 I built an 8'x10' greenhouse. I ran water and 30amps of electric. I first tried electric, it worked but very expensive, Next a 10,000 btu propane heater it also worked and again very costly to run. I just installed a $159 Chinese diesel heater can now keep it warm enough on the lowest setting on about 1/2 gallon diesel running from dusk to dawn. 20F outside 55F inside. So far a winner. just my 2cents. lol
Lol that would cost me $80 a month to heat😂
your reviews on rain barrels, electric heat, and gas heat is great. I live in middle alabama so it can usually get around 30 in the morning, then 80 by 3pm in the same day. crazy,, it was and sometimes hard to keep the timing of windows / fans / heater correct. when I used wax based window openers the windows and fan sometimes come on when the inside air gets above 75. even if it was 20 outside, crazy
Thank you and you are right. Still not many people talking about it!
Insulate the wooden walls and cover with Reflectix. In the winter months, cover the translucent interior walls and ceiling with clear plastic sheet.
I just use my propane heater. Keeps the greenhouse 65-70F consistently with no issues. I don’t enjoy using greenhouses that have to be wrapped up for the winter. Walls are insulated and panels have been replaced with double walled polycarbonate panels. So much more efficient than the cheap panels bought at big box stores. Costs more, but works much better.
Hey, thank you so much for this video. I'm planning to do this with my greenhouse as there are essentially no other options (other than running 220v) for heating a hobby greenhouse, and the lack of information is SO frustrating. So thank you!
Thanks for the comment! I'm so glad this helped you out. When we built ours I had to dig through 8-12 reading hours worth of forums just to discover a single image that we could work off of to heat our greenhouse. Lots of sleepless nights when the heater would randomly turn off while we were trying to make this setup work.
@@PlantFanatics I bet! Is the setup still working well for you? I have the heater, now just need to order the propane hookup kit for it & see how it goes .... again, very helpful to have video like this to help me sort out the kinks!
@@koriev2920 The setup worked amazing after we added the fresh air intake. It never turned off again, and we even went through the worst winter we've gone through here in Arkansas in 120 years! It got to -15 degrees for many hours, and the following night got to the negatives as well. The greenhouse on the lowest setting was kept a decent 40 degrees. You could keep it all the way at 90 degrees no problem in there, but it will suck through the propane. On the lowest setting we could probably make the small grilling tanks last 3 days a piece. If you can find a local place to refill your tanks then you'll save a lot of money over the course of the winter.
Oh my gosh I've never heard anyone else use Jack diddly squat before!!🤣😂🤣 I knew what you meant and I'm Italian that grew up in calf.
i'm figuring this would be overkill for my little greenhouse. It also gets to minus 40 (sometimes close to minus 50) where I am...Great explanation and I like the venting. I think i'm going to stick with a 3 season greenhouse for now as I as yet have not found anything suitable (off grid) for those type of weather conditions in winter.
when it's in the teens here we have it on setting one and it keeps it in the 50's. Barely uses any propane. Just food for thought
Cheaper just to buy the plants at lowes in the spring
Not possible with certain rare fruiting plants or specialty varieties.
I've used everything from propane heaters and candles and lanterns in my greenhouse in the winter. For me it is more cost efficient to use an electric heater all winter that has a thermostat on it. I have saved lots of money by using a oil heater type of electric heater. It really works. Keep some ventilation and use good plastic and make sure you have no leaks where cold air can get in.
How many watts is your heater? I’ve had two 1500 watt electric radiator heaters going at one time and it never even got close to keeping my greenhouse above 50F. A propane heater runs for less than a minute and gets it to 60F. With a 7 gallon tank it’ll run for a week and a half.
@@PlantFanatics I just have the 110 plug in. I just let it run. You have to start them early before the cold air arrives to get ahead of it. My greenhouse is usually at 80f or more. It works well for me.
I have a hobby greenhouse. This is my first year using it. And he is correct there is little info on heating, cooling or anything else on hobby greenhouses. The learning curve is trial and error. I used the electrical oil heater you suggested in my home. It shorted out and caused an electrical fire at the socket ( caught in time.) However the heaters give off such great heat I thought maybe it was a faulty unit. Undaunted I purchased another and this time I needed to use an extension cord. What happened with that was, the oil heater got so hot it melted the cord causing a long burn mark on the wood floor that is there as a reminder to this day. Lesson learned and now I’m totally afraid of using those oil heaters unattended. Just a word of caution. So I purchased a greenhouse heater for my greenhouse, which I haven’t used yet and I can’t say how well it will do. Just thought I’d share.
@@connieefurulee sorry you had such problems with your heater. It was probably faulty. All of the members in my orchid society are using these in their greenhouses. When we have warm days I turn it off. It works well for me. You can try using candles but they cost more than electricity. I have natural earth floors in my greenhouse so I don't have to worry much about anything burning.
I looked into all kinds of heating too, I use two 1,500 watt heaters with built in thermostats which can keep it around 70.
That's great! Whats do your winter lows look like?
@@PlantFanatics the last few years it might get in the 30's and on the same day 80's, use too it would get in the teens and stay for a week around feb. once a year
Hey bro , you ever consider using foil bubble reflective insulation on the interior of your plywood? That would cut out heat loss and radiant cold through the plywood if its not already insulated on the outside. That stuff is crazy effective.
I tried to avoid using things like that for aesthetic reasons. I think the first thing I'll be changing is the type of glass I'm using. I need the double paned greenhouse polycarbonate. I'm definitely going to start researching what you've said. I really appreciate the advice!
@@PlantFanatics rite. Multicell poly sheets seem to be very good. As small as your greenhouse is you could heat it with a tiny electric heater on low setting 750-850 watts and it would stay toasty whenever you get it fully insulated (double wall or multi cell poly whichever you choose ) I know you have your own goals and reasons for doing things a certain way though, and I love your greenhouse and am enjoying watching your progress. I cant wait to see how it turns out when you really have it finished completely to the point you no longer need or want to change anything. I am just getting into the whole greenhouse building myself. I wont show mine till spring though. I have the front wall wide open and my fig trees set in it on plastic pallets to keep them off the ground for now. I need a new canopy cuz a hail storm turned mine to swiss cheese this yr. Thats where I normally sit my potted trees so they get full cold exposure but are protected from rain. I can resume greenhouse construction soon as I get a new canopy in but its christmas and I am gonna wait till after to get my canopy. Have a great day bud. Keep videos coming.
I moved from central AR (zone 8b) to Rhode Island (zone 6a) a couple years ago and built a greenhouse very similar in size to yours to allow me to continue growing what I did in AR on a similar schedule. I have a power run to my greenhouse and am currently weighing electric vs propane as the primary heating source in my greenhouse and have been frustrated by the lack of info. It seems propane is slightly more economic if I am filling a large tank monthly (the 20lb tanks add up fast and require filling every 5-6 days), but some of the more efficient electric heaters (not the 1500 watt cheapos) are much easier to maintain. Curious how you handle the propane issues and how much research you did into the electric systems past what you mentioned here.
I actually researched the electric heaters quite a bit before moving forward with propane. At one point I actually tried having multiple 1500 watt heaters running at the same time just simply trying to keep the greenhouse above freezing. I added up what the costs were going to be and it was just outrageous, not to mention the heaters weren't even able to keep the temperatures maintained above freezing even when the outside temperatures were only in the 20's. Once I got the propane heating system it easily kept it in the 40's and 50's even when the temperature outside got to a freakish -15 degrees F last winter. That was on the lowest setting. Now of course there is the issue of dangerous byproducts, and this has certainly proved true in our greenhouse. It does get expensive with the small tanks, but if you can get a bigger tank and have a company come fill it up with bulk prices, thats definitely the way I would go. I hope this helps you out.
So what did you choose?
Natural gas is the way to go if you have it at your house for your stove or central heat. Much cheaper than propane and never need to fill the tank
Your greenhouse is slightly larger than mine. I have a 10x10. I called Mr. Heater and was told to buy the ice house heater which is 10,000 BTU so I can avoid the oxygen issue. It just came. I hope to get it tested out this week on the lowest setting. My greenhouse is perfectly comfortable during the day even on the coldest days in SC (22 degrees is the lowest it has been so far) but the nights are brutal for this southern boy.
Have you tried a smaller heater in your greenhouse?
lol "I haven't died" great video on a very specific topic!
Thank you so much for the kind words!
I been updating my greenhouse a little every year for about 5 years, last year I upgraded my windows on blows out (furnace blower(110v) comes on at 80, two window openers, temperature sensors open the windows and then the blower, I used styrofoam sheets under the old pool tarps for roof and will be adding more for the east and west walls soon.
Where did you buy your wall fan and what brand is it?
I can’t remember the brand, but it’s a 12” fan with a thermostat controller that I bought from HomeDepot.com
I live in BC Canada in the Rockies . I have large plastic pop bottles filled with peat moss and water in the sun all day, they give off heat all night . I have a 1500 watt heater as a back up , this has been working for the last 5 years with same bottles . Give one a try and you will see how it works . Good luck
I can't wait to try this out! So cool! Thank you for watching the video.
How many pop bottles?
The first thing you need is double/triple glazing, and loads of insulation.
I suggest this;
Fist fix twin wall polycarbonate sheets over all glazed areas inside the greenhouse.
Triple wall would be better on the roof.
Then fix 2'' polyurethane insulation to all the remaining unglazed areas.. (2 inch polyurethane = 4 inches of rockwool/glass fibre/polystyrene.)
Fix reflective insulation, as used behind radiators, over that, if it's not already reflective, or ''wallpaper'' it with kitchen foil.
That will probably halve your heat requirements, or better.
The CO2 produced by the propane or kerosene heater, will be good for your plants, and the plants will produce oxygen for you heater, if there's enough of them.
.
Might i add insulation blankets for nighttimes
That won't be very effective
.
@@TheNightwalker247
@@niklar55 check out chinese passiv solar greenhouse. And tell me again it doesn't work
Heat transfer, (heat loss) is a function of temperature difference.
The greater the difference, the greater the rate of loss.
The insulation slows the heat loss.
eg. One layer will slow it a certain amount.
Two will slow it twice as much. etc.
You need to stop the loss 24/7, _day and night._
You can also use reflective film to reduce radiation losses, by reflecting the heat back into the greenhouse.
.
Is the vent in the wall controlled by a thermostat? If so, what brand/model is it please?
It absolutely is! I believe its an iliving 12 inch shutter exhaust fan with a thermospeed controller. I've had it for about a year and its worked like a charm. I definitely would recommend it. Pretty cheap too.
@@PlantFanatics thanks!
if you would sheet the inside with plastic creating a air gap which is a great insulator that will save you propane and or keep it warmer
The CO² gains must of been awesome for when the sun came up
Probably could insulate the lower half of the wood and then go with another layer of the clear plastic on the inside and make air insulation
Great ideas. I think I’m going to replace the paneling with a double insulated greenhouse panel. You learn as you go I guess. Haha
So if I have the math right you have roughly a 10x12x7ft greenhouse which gives you 840 cubic feet of airspace. You mentioned going through that propane container about every 5 days. I think that's a 15 gallon tank correct? I'm just doing the math to find the cheapest way to het a greenhouse and I'm thinking by volume is the best way to make that comparison between the different styles. Curious what do you pay for propane there in AR? In Ca it's $3 a gallon! Working on finishing my greenhouse and the heat is the next biggest issue.
Also you might consider building a compost bin on the outside and have that compost heat vent inward. That would give you considerable free energy to work with. Nice job on the work around that o2 sensor.
Thanks for the comment! We use 5 gallon propane tanks, and during the winter they can really only get 3.5 to 3.9 gallons in there due to the metal shrinking in the cold I presume. When we have an average winter one tank will last longer. This winter was extremely cold for us (entire week of -20f at night) and a tank still lasted 5 days. We compared the cost to run multiple electric radiant heaters and it was cheaper going the propane route and more efficient in terms of space.
Thanks for the compost tip! We’ve considered it before and might implement it!
well I'm in Cali too depending on size we don't get that cold over here well I'm in central Cali maybe northern be more of a challenge
@@rookiexreviews I'm in a zone 9a I believe which means the temp here swings between 25-30 degrees. This summer though it's been as hot as 106 and at night 65. To my surprise I have learned this can be detrimental to tomato plants, not sure what others. Tomatoes being self pollinating,, both humidity and extreme temp changes can make their pollen inert. So I have 50 tomato plants green and healthy but producing no fruit. So the ideal is to build the greenhouse to maintain the temp swings to a minimum. From what I understand 72 degrees is the ideal temp for most plants
@@drewberrynews3875 we have two exhaust fans, remove multiple panels, and put shade cloth up to try and keep it cool. It’s probably harder to keep it cool in the summer than it is to keep it warm in the winter.
Have you considered setting up a large compost pile on an outside wall of your greenhouse. Run hosing throughout the pile. Then eaither pump that air into your greenhouse or put a water tank inside the greenhouse and pump water through the hose to transfer the heat from the pile into your greenhouse. I think you can actually run the water tubing through the ground to heat your beds. Something else to consider is using a water tank with an aquarium heater in it to heat ypur greenhouse. or using clay pots and a candle for heat at night or even a rocket mass heater. The rocket mass heaters are pretty cool because they dont require as much wood and you can use the top of the mass to lay your trays on to start seeds.....
hey there. ur saying one full tank last 5 days on the lowest setting mate?
Certainly it depends on the temperature. But I'd say on average in the coldest months I can get a tank to last anywhere between 3 and 5 days. Thats with temperature in the low to mid 20's. Typically the coldest we get in my planting zone is around 10 to 15 degrees for a few days. I hope this helps you out!
@@PlantFanatics shit that expensive. i have 5 tropical plants going in an extra bedroom with indoor lights that come on 12 hrs a day. my light bill only went up $20. ill just stick to that lol! i was thinking about trying this to get them accustomed to 50 degrees and work their way down to 30 degrees..just to see if they can handle it
@@securethebag1613 Running heat in a greenhouse is certainly not a cheaper option. I would say its only worth it if it makes sense for someone financially. Unfortunately natural gas or propane carries the biggest punch when it comes to heat output for colder zones. So I really have no choice. But inside the house with some grow lights will easily be cheaper if you have the space for the plants. Inside the house is insulated, and a greenhouse is the furthest thing from insulated.
Oh you're using propane. I have one that I sleep with every night during winter ,but I'm hooked up on natural gas. I'd work on getting it hooked up to gas cuz propane is expensive or do an infrared heater positioned under a metal pan full of lava rock just like you have in a sauna and then everytime you decide to pour water on the lava rock its like a humidifier.
What affect does the fumes have on plants?
Hi Charles! Thats a great question that I'm surprised nobody else has asked. The fumes obviously begin as carbon monoxide which then quickly breaks down into carbon dioxide. Carbon dioxide is taken in by the plants and returned as fresh oxygen. So this doesn't hurt the plants at all. The levels in my own personal greenhouse are not nearly as high as I originally thought. The thing that seems to be more of an issue in the greenhouse is the fluctuations in temperatures from daytime to nighttime. This can be as great as 50 degrees in my own greenhouse. So while it never reaches freezing, I do let it get down below 40 degrees Fahrenheit from time to time. This fluctuation in temperatures causes chlorosis in the leaves, and many times leaf drop for the winter. Once the warmer temperatures return in the spring the trees former health and vigor return. I hope this answers your question sufficiently. Happy growing!
Plants absolutely love carbon dioxide, that's what they breath .
People pay a lot for dioxide generators just to make plants grow better faster stronger
What is that heater brand
I believe it’s a mr. Heater. 30,000 BTU
Oh we got another Arkansan!✌️
Absolutely. Razorbacks baby!
@PlantFanatics Right on brother! Small World. I subscribed🤝
For a second I thought you were going to say you just bypassed the O2 sensor. What you did is much better.
Jack diddly squat 🤣
All that free co2, plants should grow pretty fast
What part of Arkansas
Hi Chuck! We are in Farmington Arkansas. Happy growing!
Use a carbon monoxide detector in the greenhouse.. This is the first year in the winter for our greenhouse.. We are learning.. Using a kerosene heater at night if it is supposed to get below 40 degrees.. We have some damage to our plants but they are recovering.. We are going to I so late our walls at the bottom.. We live in VA near Williamsburg.. We have a wide variety of weather in the winter..
Yes, I definitely recommend a carbon Mr oxide detector. We have the same heater in our garage, which is larger than our greenhouse, and there’s been 0 issues with this. So the size of the space matters. But they are ventless heaters and are allowed in enclosed spaces. It’s what they were built for.
problem is the cost of propane 7 tanks a month time $18 to 20 might as well by the food at a store lol. insulate way more double pain the glass or whatever .cut way down then can use other geo /sun heating ideas.
We’ve replaced all polycarbonate with double walled poly. You also do not run your greenhouse off of small refill tanks from the store. You want to go get it filled at a propane refill location. The cost is far lower. Running a small greenhouse of this size is quite inexpensive. Especially since now we have a 30x20 foot greenhouse we heat. It’s an expense of love otherwise I don’t recommend anyone have a greenhouse.
Add some misters mist water at night raising air temperature
I have noticed all the commercial growers heat their greenhouses w gas..
!
If a gas hookup is possible, then you never have to refill a tank.
You need to use large bubble wrap to insulate either the exterior and/or both the interior. Also add a clear UV hoop-house poly cover for extra wind blockage then you’ll get better results with heating, otherwise it doesn’t matter what your using to heat your greenhouse with.
I don’t use any of those options mainly because I want my greenhouse to look presentable. Bubble wrap in my opinion just isn’t an option. Also, it leads to less light penetration from the sun. I’ve had great results hearing my greenhouse in this manner. Keeps the greenhouse at roughly 40 degrees on the lowest setting even at -20 degrees Fahrenheit. I’m not downplaying those options for others, they’re just not for me personally.
If you use clear poly on the inside of your windows it will increase the insulation dramatically because of the airgap it creates. So your existing panels on the front side of 2x4's then poly sheeting on the back side. This is the same concept as most commercial high tunnel greenhouses use in cool climates, except a lot of those use an airpump to maintain the airgap between the layers of poly. But same concept as a double pane window.
Per the installation manual, you have to leave a window cracked open in a tightly constructed area such as a greenhouse. That will solve your problem with the fumes as well.
I've found that the problem was not as serious as I thought. If the space is under a certain size this is definitely something that will be necessary. Even a tiny are vent helps a lot. Thanks for the great information!
What about a small geothermal system? They seem to work if built properly and maintain about 60 degrees from those I have talked with that have them.
Plants love C02, so why let it escape ??
Many small simple electric radiant heaters, even baby chick heaters, would safely cheaply effectively heat that space better.
Wayyyy more expensive/month and not nearly as effective. We’ve tested multiple different options and is is by far the best
@@PlantFanatics id be interested in seeing the trial and error ones, odd because you have a great, seeming sturdy, and sound holding heat better greenhouse. Where many try to say they heat cheap flimsy light plastic structures, with lil electric heaters etc in northern winters.
I'm trying to mostly just keep at a dry 50F minimum, for my small, flowering, cacti hobby, of opuntia, and trichocereus, in North Georgia, moving soon to north Arkansas.
@@stephendekoning802 we’re in northwest arkansas and after you add up the cost of multiple electric radiant heaters it’s actually much cheaper to use a propane system like ours. It keeps it over 50f on the lowest possible setting at night (unless it’s extremely cold). And it’s nice to have the modularity in temperature control without adding more heaters in case you have a freak cold front like we did last year when it got to -20f for a week straight.
@@PlantFanatics thank you, and now I'm curious about all the more precise details, and dreading moving so close to winter.
@@stephendekoning802 it’s actually very simple to do. The biggest thing you must do is cover up every single induction point with the duct tape. Also make sure to angle the dryer duct towards the sky on the outside with a mesh screen and bucket over it to keep rain and critters out.
Why you are not using Liquid Paraffin Heater for your Green house?
Propane where it is readily available is far more cost effective. It also has a higher btu output and burns cleaner than kerosene.
Get yourself a 12v diesel heater.
Propane is affordable and readily available where I live. Other options could work better for those who live in different areas though.
Don't circumvent low oxygen safety features. That's how people die, usually right after "slipping" into a nap. Good rule of thumb is if your heater won't keep burning, odds are that you won't keep breathing either.
Not if you have a window or door open while you're in there
@@Dougie1969then what's the point you'll lose all the heat produced.
@@gcc2313
I suppose i should've specified.
While you as a human are in your greenhouse, ventilate it.
When you leave close everything, plants love C,02.
I've done it for years
I think insulation would help on the side walls and floor I don’t like the propane it makes water in the air and sometimes it gets below zero here in Oklahoma if it is more air tight I think just electric heat would work I had a small well house 7 x7 x5 I just used a light and it never froze I just put up a greenhouse 12x8 I built a cabin on my farm and without insulation on the very cold nights if it was 10 degrees it was maybe 20 degrees with a propane heater I have a big high tower house also and i bought 12 mil plastic I have some left over and I will cover my greenhouse at night with it when it is super cold
Trust me, we tried electric heaters. We tried two at once even. Now the greenhouse has had a complete overhaul and has double walled polycarbonate, and a very good door, and it’s all spray foamed. We still need the propane heater. It got down to -15F at one point. An electric heater would’ve been running 24/7 making the bill extremely high, and maybe would’ve made the temp inside the greenhouse -5F. There’s actually an equation used to determine what size heater you need for the cubic footage of your greenhouse. Of course it all depends on your growing zone. Obviously a warmer zone where it doesn’t get as cold in the winters will need less added heat than a colder planting zone. Thanks for the great comment and watching the video! 😀
Luckily that Mr Heater has an O2 sensor. Otherwise you create a deathtrap with one of those.
At the time of making this video I certainly thought the same thing. Now that time has passed I've realized that the air toxicity levels are nowhere near high enough to be dangerous. I even have ducks that live in the greenhouse over winter now, and they are perfectly happy. Obviously every person should make their own decisions on how to heat their greenhouse, I was just showing my method, which works like a charm. Everyone should be smart and monitor their heating system and air quality. Thanks for the great comment! Happy growing!
@@PlantFanatics
Well leaky buildings are frequently aerated enought to support some level of combustion.
I heated with firewood for a few years. Never had a problem with O2 that I know of. But the house was not an extreme example of being sealed either. It smelled of fresh cut rather than burning wood most of the time.
I've seen people do what you did by applying a dedicated air-intake to the fire box to reduce this possibility in well sealed or small homes.
Major difference is that wood stoves are vented so fume build-up should be minimal from those.
I appreciate your knowledge here. Looks like I'm going with a Mr Heater when I build next year.
I'm going to go with an O2 sensor installed unit, and a CO2 sensor mounted at a distance.
Humans can't detect low O2. And CO will make one sick long before it's detectable by smell. I plan on using the GH as extra living space so...
@@t.b.a.r.r.o. That sounds like a great idea, and safe as well! Please keep me up to date on the build and how the heating system works for you! I'm very interested. Thanks again for the support!
My pilot kept going off. I used an air duster to clean the pilot light and all the inlets and ceramics. Made all the difference
All that co2 should be great for the plants....just not good for you. 😅😅
You are loosing significant heat thru the thin wall system .
Absolutely need an air barrier on the walls, and it will reduce half heat lose and increase heat retention.
Most ppl don't realize the thermal transfer in these grow house things is catastrophic to the cause.
I ask ppl how did the moon walk go?
As far as 8+ days in -585 F degrees , FAR below "absolute zero"~ -491F, where NO electronics work.
And the thermal transfer from ANY heated source in that temperatures would be easily overwhelmed then would turn anything into a -585 degree-F popsicle in about hour or LESS..
Insulation is needed in the thermal transfer physics in these things. Youre proving the accelerated results formulae by NOT using enough or ANY insulation.
Definitely losing heat through the thinner panels. I need to switch them out with a more efficient paneling. Lots to do in the future. Thanks for the great advice!
Not off-grid, that would suck you dry in energy.
Do solar
We now have solar, just not set up yet. I still enjoy the heat output of propane. It would also take quite the battery collection to run a heater through the night every night during the winter months. But we are trying to use solar for our fans and heat mats.
@@PlantFanatics that's cool but you can also do geothermal solar as well and use the ground as a
Storage battery. You can store the energy from all summer and use it in the winter when needed
@@PlantFanatics What kind of solar set up did you get?
I don't know why this guy had so much trouble finding information. The internet is full of information on sizing heaters generally and heating greenhouses specifically.
Research is your friend.
Yes it is. Thanks for watching!
4 to 5 days? Isn’t that like $300 month.
It costs us about $120 a month to run it after doing this for a couple years. That’s for about 5 months a year.
Parks! Toad Suck !
Dig a 4 foot hole use ground
Temp. Put a circulation pump in beds and tubing to an animal water tank from the hole. Heat the after with solar or plug to a water heater element.
This is likley to kill someone he is completely right when he says he is no expert and all the disclaimers in the world wont save him if it does
Let's get real here, there are many gardeners using these in their greenhouses. Some of them have been using them for more than 20 years. This heater is meant to be ventless and inside a greenhouse, garage, or shop. If it was causing harm to anyone this company would be out of business. But they've been around for a long time and are still going strong because it's a great product and can be used in a ventless situation. So let's try not to be so dramatic here. Good luck to you my friend.
@Plant Fanatics maybe we can agree to disagree about the dangers of using ventless gas heaters. Im not saying they shouldnt be used just that people are aware of the risks .The main reason these units are so good is because of the safety devices fitted from manufacturer ,when the oxygen sensor shuts you down that generally means oxygen has been replaced with monoxide so my main point is vetilaton is very impotant when using them. So be safe and happy gardening
Why don't you let your green house breath
Thanks for your comment. I've adapted my ventless propane heater to bring in fresh oxygen, ensuring it doesn't shut off due to the CO2 sensor. This setup maintains a safe balance of gases in the greenhouse while keeping plants healthy. I constantly monitor gas levels and adjust as needed. Always consult a professional before modifying heating systems for safety.
They do make vented propane heaters.
The real problem is your greenhouse has no insulation. Replace the corrugated poly with twin wall poly, and add some foam board to the solid wall. You will need fraction of the heat.