I believe with less tension, it will actuate sooner, which will open the exhaust port more. I haven't looked at how exactly it works, but on 2 stroke snowmobiles they have a similar setup, either mechanically actuated or with crank case pressure. Low rpm, a small gate will make the exhaust port smaller, once you're almost at the power band, the gate opens, allowing full size of the exhaust port. What i think is that the exhaust port with the power valve closed, actually restricts exhaust flow, so when lugging, the engine would benefit from the exhaust port opening sooner. I may be wrong but this is how i assume it's working.
I've been doing this for 30+ years now to YZ250 Engines. Actually used a different spring, to the same results! To really enjoy this modification, install 12 ounces of weight to the flywheel also and it will really pull out of corners!
@@lucaslunaarg, I used the Race Tech kit, tried them all until I got the response I wanted. If I remember correctly I think the last one used a red spring. Try different springs and see what they do, it's interesting.
Hawz zit! I think you it have backwards! The balls in the PV have to overcome the spring pressure to activate the power valve. Same as KTM a use lighter/ heavier springs to bring the PV on earlier/ later. Overall power will be the same, all that's changing is when the PV opens. It just gives the rider a wider range of softer power. Delaying when the PV opens to soften the bottem end does have the effect of when it does open, the hit comes harder and more abruptly.
I would not be surprised to find that the washer you removed is hardened, close to the hardness of the bearings, and the collar the bearings ride on after removing the washer is not as hard. If that is the case, you will probably find some wear on the collar after a good amount of riding time. But it is a cheap enough part to replace every year if needed. I am not sure that opening the valve earlier is what i want to do. I want more low end power, and what lesser spring tension should do is let the valve open up earlier, which will probably mellow out the power at the point the valve normally opens up, extending mellow power a few hundred more rpm's, (until the piston speed matches the taller port more efficiently). I do build small 2-stroke engines for a living, but I am not totally sure about that.
Man I was struggling with jetting and air screw mix and always seemed to be gutless on the low end of second and third, Especially noticeable on long steep hill climbs no amount of clutch feathering would help bring the rpms back up to where I needed them. I removed that little washer in the governor and bam tons of low end power/torque in 2nd and 3rd, Slow roll hillclimbs are no problem on the x now, she feels like a different bike on the low end. It also helped with some of the low speed stalling that was frustrating me to no end, My wimpy clutch hand cant thank you enough. So glad I found this video before I went and spent a bunch of money on a flywheel weight. Thanks for putting this out there and helping a gumby rider like me from banging my head against the wall. P.S i dropped the ball bearings like an idiot even though you specifically warned us...
Really? I have a 2016 X and I have the exact same problems. 2nd gear always bogs when I'm in tight stuff. I love the bike just wish it had the snap as a regular YZ. I had an 05 and it was snappy as hell. I've been messing with the jetting, changing spark plugs, and nothing seems to work. I also run an fmf and turbine core.
vinnie ortega the best pipe for the bike so far is stock. If you have a turbine core that was specked for the YZ250 and not specifically the x then that might be your problem. That and perhaps jetting.
vinnie ortega you can check out my mods video where I mention the jets I use, If you are at a similar altitude as me you might just benefit from running the same jets?
There is a easier way to achieve this without taking it all apart. You just pull the cover off and connect a spring to the actuator arm. This will release preload force on the internal powervalve spring. Old timers i saw do this trick would drill a small hole in the top of the case right above the actuator, put a cotter pin up through the hole from the bottom and bend the tabs over so it cannot pull down into the case. Get a small spring the correct length with hooks on both ends. Connect the hook on one end to the arm and the other end to the cotter pin loop. The best part about the mod is you can quickly change springs allowing you to try different springs lengths and strengths until you find what works best for you. Also with this mod you can easily change springs when going from mx to trail riding. No need to pull the whole powervalve out. I will point out that your powervalve actually does create power slightly. Modding it in any way doesnt just change the power curve. If you adjust it for woods riding by taking away the "hit" you are actually losing power. Essentially governing the bike for smoother feeling delivery. Dyno testing shows you can change your power output to the wheel by +/- 5hp by simply changing springs on a 250cc.
Put a lectron on and made it feel like a 300 2t. Vforce reeds. Gnarly pipe. Fmf spark arrestor. 9oz flywheel 13/52 gearing. Ride single track 2nd/3rd. 5th top speed is 105kmh. 3800ft 20c. Bibs
My mods are going to be close to that, but I also want more compression than the stock head, and a lower exhaust port. FMF Gnarly, V-force reeds, lowered cylinder by .5mm by removing the gasket and sealing the cylinder to the cases, easily reversible if wanted. (adds compression and lowers the ex port for more low end power, or you can just use the 2010 head that is higher compression. Taking off .0085" off the later heads gasket surface will match the older higher compression head), and advance the ignition time (to the casting mark if not so). I like a good hard lower rpm hit for the sandy whooped out trails I love to ride on, so I think I will pass on the flywheel weight. I will use the stock carb, as I know how to jet it well, (yes, they are rich). I may lower my gearing also, but not nearly as much as you did. I think you would like the higher compression head, (or lower the cylinder and keep the stock head, which will match the FMF pipe better), and go back to a 14 counter shaft sprocket, (with the 2 teeth more on the rear as you have).
As a fellow YZ250X owner I've been really struggling with getting the flat spot out of the upper-mid range as well as the lack of snappy power off the bottom. Needless to say, I'll be doing this mod this weekend! I really appreciate the videos man, there isn't enough information out there on the X, good on you for giving a little! I subscribed. I have a few vids on my channel with the X if you're interested. Cheers from the USA.
Premix Peter funny thing, I went to visit your channel and discovered that I had already watched some of your 250x videos 😂 It goes to show how little there is on the bike! Nice channel bro🤙🏻
This is exactly the same as turning the dolly screw out a bit on the KTMs. JD has done extensive Dyno testing and found a little bit like this washer makes the power more linear w/o losing any power. Too far and it detunes again. The “Hit” if from PV not opening as soon and then Bam! I wonder if I can do same mod on my 125x?
Hey mate, do you have remove the side of the case like you have to adjust that governer? I’ve got a 2011 YZ250 that I’m setting up for enduro. Can’t decide whether to do this mod to soften the power or add a heavier flywheel weight. Any help is much appreciated!
Lawson Harper Hey🤙🏻 yes the governor is trapped by the side case. You should also consider a FMF Gnarly “Woods” pipe and then jetting for the new pipe. That will go a long way. Then the gearing might be to long in first and second so get yourself a bigger rear sprocket. A flyweight along with the shorter gears will go a long way to combat stalling.
I say fix the head. There are big gains to be had. Then get the x pv and pull the washer. 45 pilot jet Jd needle pos 2 40 power jet 175 main jet 7.5mm float height Sea level Better low end gain than the gnarly without losing the top end
It makes a difference. I ran a stealthy 13oz before I got my eline/hodgkins stator but I would take a bike that is jetted correctly vs one that had a few and the factory pig rich jetting.
Removing the washer, adding a flywheel weight and jetting the bike a bit leaner will make a world of difference. Also the fmf woods pipe will help alot on a mx YZ.
Is there any concern with the metallurgy between the washer and the collar? The washer is part of the bearing and as a result “made” for that application vs the collar not being a point of friction???
Snow Rider Hi there, by your logic the spring is the length it is for a reason. Any modifications made will be intrusive. Having said that, the washer and collar have the exact same friction surface and will will still function the same except for the lower tension I n the spring. It is also 100% reservable. Cutting the spring is an irreversible modification and also unproven. The mod here in SA has gained allot of traction and is fast becoming a popular mod. Ride on brother!🤙🏻
@@cwdirtventures2606 thats why i asked the question! I was thinking the spring might need to be a certain length but thought i'd ask. thank you for the info!! im pulling the washer! do you think the 295cc would fix the power issue without doing this mod? this what i'm thinking of doing in the future but ive only had my 2019yz250x for 6 weeks now!
Snow Rider this mod shifts some of the power lower down and spreads it more evenly but does not add more power. Do you need more torque for hill climbing? Or if you don’t mind me asking, how much do you weigh and on what sort of terrain did you feel you lack power? Was it hill climbs, hole shot, top speed or in general the bike feels lazy?
@@cwdirtventures2606 its power for steep hill climbing. im 165lbs. the only issue I have is the lack of power on rampart range CO steep hills! in second it barely makes it up. first it gets to crazy. im thinking either 295cc for more power or doing the mod to even it out the power delivery and change to a 13 front 49 rear sproket set for the better torque? torque or power is my question?
Snow Rider I had the same problem! You can improve your torque quite a bit by changing your gearing! First I dropped from a 14t to a 13 tooth sprocket in the front. That equates to a 3t increase in the rear sprocket (53) Then my bike was way to torquey and lacked top end so I also fitted a 48t sprocket in the rear effectively making my bike 1 tooth torquier. Here are some options to explore: -For a really short gearbox and climbing like a 4x4 tractor in low range, drop the front sprocket from 14 to 13. - you can later tame it for other styles of riding by adding a 48t rear sprocket. - you could also split the difference and get a 52t rear sprocket and leave the front stock. A few things to remember: The whole gearbox behaves differently ever time you change sprocket gearing. Also, whatever you add to the bottom in torque gets taken from the top end. You can have all these sprockets handy and gear your bike for specific types of riding like the pro’s do. This bike has more than enough power to get you where you need to be. I’m a 230lb fatty and my bike has lugged me to places that blew my mind! 🤙🏻
710Racing DBN My next video will cover the difference all the mods I have done so far has made. But this particular mod actually made a subtle but noticeable difference to my low end torque. I don’t have dyno graphs to back my statement but I did 34 hours on the bike before the mod. Actually for where my skill level is at now the current setup on my bike is absolutely perfect! I’ll tell you all about it in my next video.
As someone mentioned, removing the washer will creat less spring tension on the governor...which...ineffect would allow the pv to open sooner, at a lower rpm. I would think adding another washer is what you want to do. Adding a washer would place more preload on the spring, which would cause the governor to open later / higher rpm....giving the bike a little more lugging power/ low end. I think you have the mod backwards.
The PV is opening too late creating the flat spot in the mid range the PV needs to open lower in the range to correct this. Mid range power needs the PV starting to open to achieve this. PV is not just for top end.
Atomic_Lenny no problem, yes it will reduce the poweband hit a little and give some of the power to the bottom end. No, to my knowledge there are no options available on different tention springs. Sometimes one can reuse the same gasket if it is still in good condition, otherwise it’s best to replace it👍🏼
Here in South Africa there are no such things for YZ’s I know somewhere in Australia or America there is a co. that makes softer springs after market but Yamaha does no such thing.
I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.
I also ride under the power band, just enjoying technical mountain trails at a leisure pace.
I believe with less tension, it will actuate sooner, which will open the exhaust port more. I haven't looked at how exactly it works, but on 2 stroke snowmobiles they have a similar setup, either mechanically actuated or with crank case pressure. Low rpm, a small gate will make the exhaust port smaller, once you're almost at the power band, the gate opens, allowing full size of the exhaust port.
What i think is that the exhaust port with the power valve closed, actually restricts exhaust flow, so when lugging, the engine would benefit from the exhaust port opening sooner. I may be wrong but this is how i assume it's working.
I've been doing this for 30+ years now to YZ250 Engines. Actually used a different spring, to the same results! To really enjoy this modification, install 12 ounces of weight to the flywheel also and it will really pull out of corners!
what spring do you use?
@@lucaslunaarg, I used the Race Tech kit, tried them all until I got the response I wanted. If I remember correctly I think the last one used a red spring. Try different springs and see what they do, it's interesting.
Thank you for the video, well done. My water pump seal just went out so I'm going to do this mod while I have the cover off.
You need more tension by chiming the spring to slow down the power band. On ktm they sell you a stiffer spring for that
Fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to get this online.
Great vid thank you, idk how im just finding out about this iv had my 2017 yz250x for a little over a year.
Hawz zit!
I think you it have backwards!
The balls in the PV have to overcome the spring pressure to activate the power valve.
Same as KTM a use lighter/ heavier springs to bring the PV on earlier/ later.
Overall power will be the same, all that's changing is when the PV opens. It just gives the rider a wider range of softer power.
Delaying when the PV opens to soften the bottem end does have the effect of when it does open, the hit comes harder and more abruptly.
This vid was a great help. Thank you
The ktm’s come with 3 different power valve springs. The lighter gauge springs make for a snappier throttle and bigger hit.
Yes but this isn't a ktm vid mate 😉
Thank you sir ! your video was vary good and you are vary good at talking and explaining things thank you again !
Thank you Alex.
just did my 2016! thanks for the vid im just here to flex that i compressed my PV with one hand. confirmed samurai
Do a hardness test on the washer and then the collar. if the collar is much softer then maybe a weaker spring is the better option.
I would not be surprised to find that the washer you removed is hardened, close to the hardness of the bearings, and the collar the bearings ride on after removing the washer is not as hard. If that is the case, you will probably find some wear on the collar after a good amount of riding time. But it is a cheap enough part to replace every year if needed.
I am not sure that opening the valve earlier is what i want to do. I want more low end power, and what lesser spring tension should do is let the valve open up earlier, which will probably mellow out the power at the point the valve normally opens up, extending mellow power a few hundred more rpm's, (until the piston speed matches the taller port more efficiently). I do build small 2-stroke engines for a living, but I am not totally sure about that.
Man I was struggling with jetting and air screw mix and always seemed to be gutless on the low end of second and third, Especially noticeable on long steep hill climbs no amount of clutch feathering would help bring the rpms back up to where I needed them. I removed that little washer in the governor and bam tons of low end power/torque in 2nd and 3rd, Slow roll hillclimbs are no problem on the x now, she feels like a different bike on the low end. It also helped with some of the low speed stalling that was frustrating me to no end, My wimpy clutch hand cant thank you enough. So glad I found this video before I went and spent a bunch of money on a flywheel weight. Thanks for putting this out there and helping a gumby rider like me from banging my head against the wall. P.S i dropped the ball bearings like an idiot even though you specifically warned us...
EnduroCoast wow, that is awesome, thanks for the feedback 🤙🏻
Really? I have a 2016 X and I have the exact same problems. 2nd gear always bogs when I'm in tight stuff. I love the bike just wish it had the snap as a regular YZ. I had an 05 and it was snappy as hell. I've been messing with the jetting, changing spark plugs, and nothing seems to work. I also run an fmf and turbine core.
vinnie ortega the best pipe for the bike so far is stock. If you have a turbine core that was specked for the YZ250 and not specifically the x then that might be your problem. That and perhaps jetting.
vinnie ortega you can check out my mods video where I mention the jets I use, If you are at a similar altitude as me you might just benefit from running the same jets?
@@cwdirtventures2606 I'm in southern California and mostly ride in the high desert around 2000 to 2500 feet. Check out some of my videos.
There is a easier way to achieve this without taking it all apart. You just pull the cover off and connect a spring to the actuator arm. This will release preload force on the internal powervalve spring. Old timers i saw do this trick would drill a small hole in the top of the case right above the actuator, put a cotter pin up through the hole from the bottom and bend the tabs over so it cannot pull down into the case. Get a small spring the correct length with hooks on both ends. Connect the hook on one end to the arm and the other end to the cotter pin loop. The best part about the mod is you can quickly change springs allowing you to try different springs lengths and strengths until you find what works best for you. Also with this mod you can easily change springs when going from mx to trail riding. No need to pull the whole powervalve out.
I will point out that your powervalve actually does create power slightly. Modding it in any way doesnt just change the power curve. If you adjust it for woods riding by taking away the "hit" you are actually losing power. Essentially governing the bike for smoother feeling delivery. Dyno testing shows you can change your power output to the wheel by +/- 5hp by simply changing springs on a 250cc.
Could you take a pic and draw your explanation that sounds awesome!
Put a lectron on and made it feel like a 300 2t.
Vforce reeds. Gnarly pipe. Fmf spark arrestor. 9oz flywheel 13/52 gearing. Ride single track 2nd/3rd. 5th top speed is 105kmh. 3800ft 20c. Bibs
My mods are going to be close to that, but I also want more compression than the stock head, and a lower exhaust port. FMF Gnarly, V-force reeds, lowered cylinder by .5mm by removing the gasket and sealing the cylinder to the cases, easily reversible if wanted. (adds compression and lowers the ex port for more low end power, or you can just use the 2010 head that is higher compression. Taking off .0085" off the later heads gasket surface will match the older higher compression head), and advance the ignition time (to the casting mark if not so). I like a good hard lower rpm hit for the sandy whooped out trails I love to ride on, so I think I will pass on the flywheel weight. I will use the stock carb, as I know how to jet it well, (yes, they are rich). I may lower my gearing also, but not nearly as much as you did. I think you would like the higher compression head, (or lower the cylinder and keep the stock head, which will match the FMF pipe better), and go back to a 14 counter shaft sprocket, (with the 2 teeth more on the rear as you have).
That's a solid setup I'm pretty much running the same setup except the flywheel on my 03 yz250
As a fellow YZ250X owner I've been really struggling with getting the flat spot out of the upper-mid range as well as the lack of snappy power off the bottom. Needless to say, I'll be doing this mod this weekend! I really appreciate the videos man, there isn't enough information out there on the X, good on you for giving a little! I subscribed. I have a few vids on my channel with the X if you're interested. Cheers from the USA.
Premix Peter I will definitely check out your channel 🤙🏻
Premix Peter funny thing, I went to visit your channel and discovered that I had already watched some of your 250x videos 😂 It goes to show how little there is on the bike!
Nice channel bro🤙🏻
Me too, 2nd gear always bogs in the right stuff or coming out of a corner and hitting a hill.
vinnie ortega with the jetting I run now I managed to iron out all flat spots
Can you provide details on the jetting you run?@@cwdirtventures2606
Thank you brother, much appreciated
Float height, jetting, pv mod
Provided 3x the gain on a pipe and rad valve. I have both the gnarly and dep pipe.
can you explain float height mod or tune? I have never heard of this for tuning a bike.
Replace the spring with a after market spring for GREAT results. Checkout the Cisco's Power Valve Spring.
The thing I was concerned about is what is the collar made from steal or ally
This is exactly the same as turning the dolly screw out a bit on the KTMs. JD has done extensive Dyno testing and found a little bit like this washer makes the power more linear w/o losing any power. Too far and it detunes again. The “Hit” if from PV not opening as soon and then Bam!
I wonder if I can do same mod on my 125x?
I can’t see why not.
Could u take out the other washer on the tail end that also is against a collar??
Have you disarmed to check that the modification has not caused any damage?
I honestly love the South African accent lol
As a former Saffa in New Zealand - ek ook :)
If I followed correct you reduced the preload on the spring and allow the power valve to open sooner?
Hey mate, do you have remove the side of the case like you have to adjust that governer? I’ve got a 2011 YZ250 that I’m setting up for enduro. Can’t decide whether to do this mod to soften the power or add a heavier flywheel weight. Any help is much appreciated!
Lawson Harper Hey🤙🏻 yes the governor is trapped by the side case. You should also consider a FMF Gnarly “Woods” pipe and then jetting for the new pipe. That will go a long way. Then the gearing might be to long in first and second so get yourself a bigger rear sprocket. A flyweight along with the shorter gears will go a long way to combat stalling.
I say fix the head. There are big gains to be had. Then get the x pv and pull the washer.
45 pilot jet
Jd needle pos 2
40 power jet
175 main jet
7.5mm float height
Sea level
Better low end gain than the gnarly without losing the top end
The best mods are a head recut/rechamber, Pv mod and jetting. That is where the power is. Forget about pipes, silencers and reed blocks.
I agree
I've heard the heavier flywheel that Yamaha sells makes a huge difference.
It makes a difference.
I ran a stealthy 13oz before I got my eline/hodgkins stator but I would take a bike that is jetted correctly vs one that had a few and the factory pig rich jetting.
Has anyone tried this on a standard Yz250? Also do you remove 1 #6 washer or both #6 washers?
Removing the washer, adding a flywheel weight and jetting the bike a bit leaner will make a world of difference.
Also the fmf woods pipe will help alot on a mx YZ.
Is there any concern with the metallurgy between the washer and the collar? The washer is part of the bearing and as a result “made” for that application vs the collar not being a point of friction???
Ezlivin You are correct, but it is so minimal and also cheap to replace.
Excellent
Thank you. Just found out about this and I think I am doing this to my YZ to make it more woods worthy.
Glad it helped
will it give a better mpg or not because i do long run trail and i don’t want to ruin my mpg doing this mod
much better mpg!
Just a question! do you think you could shorten (cut the spring smaller) the spring shorter instead of removing a washer that is there for a reason?
Snow Rider Hi there, by your logic the spring is the length it is for a reason. Any modifications made will be intrusive. Having said that, the washer and collar have the exact same friction surface and will will still function the same except for the lower tension I n the spring. It is also 100% reservable. Cutting the spring is an irreversible modification and also unproven.
The mod here in SA has gained allot of traction and is fast becoming a popular mod.
Ride on brother!🤙🏻
@@cwdirtventures2606 thats why i asked the question! I was thinking the spring might need to be a certain length but thought i'd ask. thank you for the info!! im pulling the washer! do you think the 295cc would fix the power issue without doing this mod? this what i'm thinking of doing in the future but ive only had my 2019yz250x for 6 weeks now!
Snow Rider this mod shifts some of the power lower down and spreads it more evenly but does not add more power.
Do you need more torque for hill climbing? Or if you don’t mind me asking, how much do you weigh and on what sort of terrain did you feel you lack power?
Was it hill climbs, hole shot, top speed or in general the bike feels lazy?
@@cwdirtventures2606 its power for steep hill climbing. im 165lbs. the only issue I have is the lack of power on rampart range CO steep hills! in second it barely makes it up. first it gets to crazy. im thinking either 295cc for more power or doing the mod to even it out the power delivery and change to a 13 front 49 rear sproket set for the better torque? torque or power is my question?
Snow Rider I had the same problem!
You can improve your torque quite a bit by changing your gearing!
First I dropped from a 14t to a 13 tooth sprocket in the front. That equates to a 3t increase in the rear sprocket (53) Then my bike was way to torquey and lacked top end so I also fitted a 48t sprocket in the rear effectively making my bike 1 tooth torquier. Here are some options to explore:
-For a really short gearbox and climbing like a 4x4 tractor in low range, drop the front sprocket from 14 to 13.
- you can later tame it for other styles of riding by adding a 48t rear sprocket.
- you could also split the difference and get a 52t rear sprocket and leave the front stock.
A few things to remember:
The whole gearbox behaves differently ever time you change sprocket gearing.
Also, whatever you add to the bottom in torque gets taken from the top end.
You can have all these sprockets handy and gear your bike for specific types of riding like the pro’s do. This bike has more than enough power to get you where you need to be.
I’m a 230lb fatty and my bike has lugged me to places that blew my mind!
🤙🏻
I love the jokes
Did it work
Thanks for doing this!! How do you like it?
710Racing DBN
My next video will cover the difference all the mods I have done so far has made. But this particular mod actually made a subtle but noticeable difference to my low end torque. I don’t have dyno graphs to back my statement but I did 34 hours on the bike before the mod. Actually for where my skill level is at now the current setup on my bike is absolutely perfect! I’ll tell you all about it in my next video.
710Racing DBN ruclips.net/video/inbwOVr71Mk/видео.html
All my modds and findings on them👍🏻
As someone mentioned,
removing the washer will creat less spring tension on the governor...which...ineffect would allow the pv to open sooner, at a lower rpm.
I would think adding another washer is what you want to do.
Adding a washer would place more preload on the spring, which would cause the governor to open later / higher rpm....giving the bike a little more lugging power/ low end.
I think you have the mod backwards.
No he has done it right, a little research shows multiple discussions about this.
The PV is opening too late creating the flat spot in the mid range the PV needs to open lower in the range to correct this. Mid range power needs the PV starting to open to achieve this. PV is not just for top end.
So after you did this mod could you tell the difference ?
I just came back from an enduro now and I must say, along with propper jetting the bike lugged like never before.
steve reynolds ruclips.net/video/inbwOVr71Mk/видео.html
All my mods and findings on them
You say lugged , do u mean was worse?
@@johnreibelt1085 I'm 99.9% sure He meant had lots of low end grunt gain, great for lugging through tight technical stuff.
@@Lanlawns I get ya , I thought he meant sluggish
Will this work on a Yz125x as well?
Atomic_Lenny I can’t see why not, however the 125 is a totally different beast that requires a different riding style.
C & W DirtVentures yeah for sure haha, but maybe with this mod it will hit the powerband a bit “easier”
C & W DirtVentures do you know if it is possible to buy a different spring for these bikes
C & W DirtVentures oh and do you have to replace the gasket of the engine case if you take it off for this mod? Sorry for all the questions
Atomic_Lenny no problem, yes it will reduce the poweband hit a little and give some of the power to the bottom end. No, to my knowledge there are no options available on different tention springs. Sometimes one can reuse the same gasket if it is still in good condition, otherwise it’s best to replace it👍🏼
Just get a softer spring
Here in South Africa there are no such things for YZ’s I know somewhere in Australia or America there is a co. that makes softer springs after market but Yamaha does no such thing.