Great work. I too have a 1970 TR6 PI. This was sold new here in early 1971. There were quite a few that came here (New Zealand) '69-'75. They were all PI's. Same spec as the UK.
Back in the day my father had a few 2.5pi big saloons. Lead from the leaded fuel used in the UK in that time was the cause of some issues with the Pi system. The remedy was to drive the car hard, revving it to the red line! I remember my father being so happy when the engine ran like it was supposed to again.
In the early 70s when I had my 68 TR5 we called the choke the over fuel .Turn on ignition pull the over fuel knob count to 10 turn the ignition switch hey presto !! Went every time , well nearly 😂
There is a guy in the UK who has designed a much improved PI throttle linkage. It uses bearings instead of crappy nylon bushes and has much more adjustability. Installed it on mine and I'm happy with it.
@@cheftush and the timing is easy compared with the bleeding 🙂. Personally I would recommend avoiding the braided hoses given the additional propensity for vaporisation and air in the lines.
@@jamcdonasome similarities with the spica….this Lucas system seems more simple to me….I find with the spica, especially with the 81, is that it’s very hard to access in the engine bay….everything from the fuel filter, pump, thermostatic actuator, long rods, spica oil filter and drive belt…all harder to access.
As said I'd be tempted if there is no play in the spindles to have left the crud in place as it provided a good seal. If there is play in the shafts might be worth having the bodies machined to take some sealed bearings which will get rid of the play and improve the balance/response set up across all three units. To replace the crud spray the inlets with MolyKote which will improve the initial seal until the carbon/varnish builds back up. I'd recommend having a go with the DIY plating it's fun and satisfying seeing everything return to like new. Keep it coming!
The only thing that I’m concerned about with the diy plating is the space it takes up…space is at a premium in my garage….even if I were to do a small bucket set up, I’d really have no where to set it up and store it afterwards….
Not sure of the bodies but I would like to know if the spindles had any wear. This is a really basic video on balancing the manifold (Don't hold that he is a MG Racer against him): ruclips.net/video/nAu59BFNUQg/видео.html.
@@kenbrown5927 thanks Ken, I’ll check the spindles a little more carefully next time I’m playing with the manifolds. Yes! I think I’ve watched every RUclips video on injection now 😉. I’m glad there are some excellent resources out there.
The cross shape in the nylon bushes for the injectors was introduced in an attempt to reduce heat soak from the throttle bodies to the injectors to try and minimise fuel vaporising in the injectors which subsequently created starting problems, due to air in the injector and hose. The cut away just reduces the contact area
Do you have continuing vids on the restoration of the 59 TR3A where you were installing the trunk floor and the ripples inserted. You seemed to just drop off the map on the project.
Hi William, that’s where I stopped the project actually…sorry, long story but I jumped onto my TR250 project….that ended up taking much longer than anticipated. I am starting working on the 59 TR3A project again at the end of April.
Wow this is going to be an interesting project Tush, they cleaned up well. my concern would be if they stay that clean for two years of storage if not clear coated. Looking forward to your next project TR3. Thanks agin for sharing your experiences, I’ve learned a lot over the past few years, that’s helped me with 1962 TR4. Got it running but having a tough time getting it to run smoothly with the webers and prextronix. But about a month ago I drove that car down the street and back. Thrilling to have that move under its own power for the first time in 40 plus years. Cheers !
Great work on the cleaning Dave and after I had cleaned the butterfly’s on my TR5 it was suggested that it would have been better to leave than dirty because of the seal issue and I have to confess she runs better tha more I use it…… so good advice from Steve and just in time. Kind regards, Richard.
Boy they cleaned up nice. I had an old kids cordless rotary toothbrush. It worked great in small places until it finally died. They aren't too expensive so I may buy a new one.
It’s a different camshaft for the PI set up….I’m actually running the PI Cam in my TR250 with carburetors though so it could be done technically as long as you had all the proper bits. For example, a North American carbureted TR6 gas tank is different from the PI tank as there are return lines to the tank at the top for Injected cars among other things.
The nylon bushes that support the injectors are basically a push fit into the throttle bodies, each one has an O ring on. So if you wish you can remove and refit these when you refinish the bodies. I expect you will find the housing in the throttle bodies to be identical (and not related to the difference in injectors you are seeing). All of mine were push fit injectors and all have the cross shape when viewed end on.
@@cheftush I expect you will relish the new challenge! I've really enjoyed your videos. I recently refurbished my TR6 inlet system and have had my car for many years. Tim
Hello Dave. I haven’t chatted with you for ages. Off the topic I was wondering since G4 ??? Trans fluid is hard to find. Or at least for me. My TR6 is a 4 speed. Do you use straight 30 motor oil or 5w30 motor oil in your overdrive trains ?
Hi Doug, yes in my overdrive transmissions, I use SAE30, non detergent oil. 4 the 4 speed, you can use GL4 gear oil from Miller Oil, Sta Lube, or Penn if you can find it. You might have more success finding Redline MT90 Gear Oil as this can usually be found through places like Amazon if you can’t find it locally.
Do yourself a favor and get the injectors professionally rebuilt by a specialist in the UK. I wasted a lot of time and energy trying to do it myself. The rebuilt's made a world of difference.
@@cheftush I used Prestige Injection. I had them rebuild the metering unit also which I would highly recommend. I also bought some stuff from KMI injection. Its been so long I can't remember what I bought where...
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great work. I too have a 1970 TR6 PI. This was sold new here in early 1971. There were quite a few that came here (New Zealand) '69-'75. They were all PI's. Same spec as the UK.
Hi Dave. I'm in the UK and I recondition all parts of the lucas injection system.
Hi Neil, do you have a website you can share or a business name or do you just do it as a hobby? Cheers, Tush
I have used Neil for my PI parts and would thoroughly recommend him. Great rebuilds at a fair price and very helpful from a very happy customer.
Back in the day my father had a few 2.5pi big saloons. Lead from the leaded fuel used in the UK in that time was the cause of some issues with the Pi system. The remedy was to drive the car hard, revving it to the red line! I remember my father being so happy when the engine ran like it was supposed to again.
In the early 70s when I had my 68 TR5 we called the choke the over fuel .Turn on ignition pull the over fuel knob count to 10 turn the ignition switch hey presto !! Went every time , well nearly 😂
Cheers for the mention, and all the best of luck with the new project can. As always you know where I am for any advise 👍
Much appreciated
Good job Tush they look the business.
Thanks!
There is a guy in the UK who has designed a much improved PI throttle linkage. It uses bearings instead of crappy nylon bushes and has much more adjustability. Installed it on mine and I'm happy with it.
Yes, I have the contact info and will be going with them as well….
Nice! I've never dealt with PI so I will watch closely.
Just wait until we get to the metering unit TIMING…….🤯🤯🤯
@@cheftush Is it similar to the Alfa's Spica system? Or BMW Tii injection pump?
@@cheftush and the timing is easy compared with the bleeding 🙂. Personally I would recommend avoiding the braided hoses given the additional propensity for vaporisation and air in the lines.
@@jamcdonasome similarities with the spica….this Lucas system seems more simple to me….I find with the spica, especially with the 81, is that it’s very hard to access in the engine bay….everything from the fuel filter, pump, thermostatic actuator, long rods, spica oil filter and drive belt…all harder to access.
@@angeloapa1596awwwww! I like the look of the braided hoses….I figured there’d be some sort of drawback…
As said I'd be tempted if there is no play in the spindles to have left the crud in place as it provided a good seal. If there is play in the shafts might be worth having the bodies machined to take some sealed bearings which will get rid of the play and improve the balance/response set up across all three units. To replace the crud spray the inlets with MolyKote which will improve the initial seal until the carbon/varnish builds back up.
I'd recommend having a go with the DIY plating it's fun and satisfying seeing everything return to like new. Keep it coming!
The only thing that I’m concerned about with the diy plating is the space it takes up…space is at a premium in my garage….even if I were to do a small bucket set up, I’d really have no where to set it up and store it afterwards….
Not sure of the bodies but I would like to know if the spindles had any wear. This is a really basic video on balancing the manifold (Don't hold that he is a MG Racer against him):
ruclips.net/video/nAu59BFNUQg/видео.html.
@@kenbrown5927 thanks Ken, I’ll check the spindles a little more carefully next time I’m playing with the manifolds. Yes! I think I’ve watched every RUclips video on injection now 😉. I’m glad there are some excellent resources out there.
Thanks
The cross shape in the nylon bushes for the injectors was introduced in an attempt to reduce heat soak from the throttle bodies to the injectors to try and minimise fuel vaporising in the injectors which subsequently created starting problems, due to air in the injector and hose. The cut away just reduces the contact area
Excellent! Good to know. Thank You!
I agree with Steve re: the throttle butterflies
Cool . Interesting . look better now you cleaned them .
Another new and varied project Chef.
Looking forward to it.
You and me both!
Nice clean up, they look great.
Thanks 👍
Do you have continuing vids on the restoration of the 59 TR3A where you were installing the trunk floor and the ripples inserted. You seemed to just drop off the map on the project.
Hi William, that’s where I stopped the project actually…sorry, long story but I jumped onto my TR250 project….that ended up taking much longer than anticipated. I am starting working on the 59 TR3A project again at the end of April.
Wow this is going to be an interesting project Tush, they cleaned up well. my concern would be if they stay that clean for two years of storage if not clear coated. Looking forward to your next project TR3. Thanks agin for sharing your experiences, I’ve learned a lot over the past few years, that’s helped me with 1962 TR4. Got it running but having a tough time getting it to run smoothly with the webers and prextronix. But about a month ago I drove that car down the street and back. Thrilling to have that move under its own power for the first time in 40 plus years. Cheers !
Hi Robert, yeah I’m sure I’ll have to revisit them when I get serious about the TR6 PI restoration. At least I’ve done the hard part!
Great work on the cleaning Dave and after I had cleaned the butterfly’s on my TR5 it was suggested that it would have been better to leave than dirty because of the seal issue and I have to confess she runs better tha more I use it…… so good advice from Steve and just in time. Kind regards, Richard.
Yes, I mentioned what I was trying to do with the butterflies and Steve said STOP! 😀
Boy they cleaned up nice. I had an old kids cordless rotary toothbrush. It worked great in small places until it finally died. They aren't too expensive so I may buy a new one.
Love the new graphics!
Looks like I need to invest in an ultrasonic cleaner! Eastwood’s retail store here I come!
This one is on loan from @elinyakov
@@cheftush the Canadian Tr6 guy! I watch his vid's also.
Could that PI set up bolt on to a carbureted TR6 engine? Same camshaft?
It’s a different camshaft for the PI set up….I’m actually running the PI Cam in my TR250 with carburetors though so it could be done technically as long as you had all the proper bits. For example, a North American carbureted TR6 gas tank is different from the PI tank as there are return lines to the tank at the top for Injected cars among other things.
Yes, it can be done, but the Pi system would need to be calibrated for the 104bhp engine and a return fuel line plumbed in
For cleaning I used old tooth brush, ideal for small spaces.
Yes, exactly what I use as well…I keep all my old toothbrushes under the kitchen sink 😉
The nylon bushes that support the injectors are basically a push fit into the throttle bodies, each one has an O ring on. So if you wish you can remove and refit these when you refinish the bodies. I expect you will find the housing in the throttle bodies to be identical (and not related to the difference in injectors you are seeing). All of mine were push fit injectors and all have the cross shape when viewed end on.
Thank You Tim! It definitely a learning curve from carbs to injection.
@@cheftush I expect you will relish the new challenge! I've really enjoyed your videos. I recently refurbished my TR6 inlet system and have had my car for many years.
Tim
Very interesting. Are you going to be able to get parts for this?
Yes, from the UK though….so, some pricey postage is in my future 😉
He'll be fine, he has me 👍
Blades come out first, then the shaft. Open the throttle all the way and the blades should easily pull out of the slots in the shaft. Just like SU's
Thanks Nate! Good to know.
I was cringing when he said tap the shaft out. Pull the butterfies out first, just like on my XJS v12.
Hello Dave. I haven’t chatted with you for ages. Off the topic I was wondering since G4 ??? Trans fluid is hard to find. Or at least for me. My TR6 is a 4 speed. Do you use straight 30 motor oil or 5w30 motor oil in your overdrive trains ?
Hi Doug, yes in my overdrive transmissions, I use SAE30, non detergent oil. 4 the 4 speed, you can use GL4 gear oil from Miller Oil, Sta Lube, or Penn if you can find it. You might have more success finding Redline MT90 Gear Oil as this can usually be found through places like Amazon if you can’t find it locally.
the link is where Eugene
Hi Eugene, the link to Steve Denton is in the description field below or you can find him here as well…youtube.com/@SteveDentonClassics
Cheers, Tush
Do yourself a favor and get the injectors professionally rebuilt by a specialist in the UK. I wasted a lot of time and energy trying to do it myself. The rebuilt's made a world of difference.
Do you have a suggestion for a rebuilder? Seems there are quite a few options in the UK to choose from.
@@cheftush I used Prestige Injection. I had them rebuild the metering unit also which I would highly recommend. I also bought some stuff from KMI injection. Its been so long I can't remember what I bought where...