Great video. I gotta get onto this. My original plan was to liquid nails some R4 polyester ceiling insulation i have but im guessing the xps is a better option. What thickness is the xps foam. Also is it worth putting the r4 polyester over the top of the entire hole after adhering the xps the the lid in the roof space?
Nice work. I made a box out of EPS foilboard for my ladder. I then went checking for drafts with a Hayes smoke pen, I think the FLIR ONE would be more effective. Excellent videos! My 1940’s cottage is much less drafty thanks to these detailed and well produced videos.
I bought a Kimberley 600x600 Heavy Duty cover and removed the old falling apart wood and plasterboard lid. I have issues where the inner frame is smaller than the joist and need a 9-10mm wood packer so it will mount properly. And the only thing I could find that will fit is 9mm plywood. The plasterboard I cut for the lid is not stable even when I plastered the edges, it crumbles after opening a few times. So deciding to use that same 9mm plywood for the lid. Getting a whole full sized plywood sheet for this isn't cheap though. I found a place that stock zero VOC ply and the cheapest I could find is a $70 hardwood full sized board that needs to be cut. I need to still figure out how to insulate this plywood on top and seal around this cover. I was thinking a furry strip seal on the side edges of the lid so the lid has a tight fit but needs handles to push it down. I cant put clips on the lid as it sits against the plastic cover but was thinking of pull handles ? What is this foam that is put on top of the lid ?
ok thanks. I cant believe how complicated it became to renovate an access cover. Becoming a pricey exercise. I bought the wrong cover before also. the correct one is 600x600. Im hoping this plywood lid with furry strips on the ends works out now if I manage to get this plywood ! I cant even mount the cover yet. Dressed pine comes in 12mm, stripping this down to 9-10mm proved difficult ! My ceiling plaster was a huge mess when I took the wood trims off, crumbling and falling apart. I had to plaster patch around the edges and cut it all back to the joist. The original hole was cut badly. Very leaky. Ive got cardboard up there right now to fill it up for now and its bad.
Great video. I gotta get onto this. My original plan was to liquid nails some R4 polyester ceiling insulation i have but im guessing the xps is a better option.
What thickness is the xps foam.
Also is it worth putting the r4 polyester over the top of the entire hole after adhering the xps the the lid in the roof space?
Thank you very much. Your videos are great! Could you make one covering types of roof (flat, pitched) in regards to energy efficiency?
Filipe Araujo Yes, we are organising one on this topic soon. 👍🏻
That was informative, but I was giggling throughout the video :)
I’m glad we can be informative, and entertaining all at the same time!
When you air seal attic don't you have 2 vent the living space somehow from gasses and stale air and such?
Sure, but getting fresh air from a mouldy wall cavity isn’t the right place to be getting fresh air from.
@@ecoevo what do you mean
The attic area is not normally air tight. I thought you were referring to the living area.
@@ecoevo ya like you air seal the ceiling above the living place won't u have 2 vent the living space somehow
@@Brandon-no3vc how do you vent into the ceiling space? You’ll get insulation and dust from the roof, if you try to ventilate from that space.
Important topic. Great video 👍. Thanks
Nice work. I made a box out of EPS foilboard for my ladder. I then went checking for drafts with a Hayes smoke pen, I think the FLIR ONE would be more effective. Excellent videos! My 1940’s cottage is much less drafty thanks to these detailed and well produced videos.
I bought a Kimberley 600x600 Heavy Duty cover and removed the old falling apart wood and plasterboard lid. I have issues where the inner frame is smaller than the joist and need a 9-10mm wood packer so it will mount properly. And the only thing I could find that will fit is 9mm plywood. The plasterboard I cut for the lid is not stable even when I plastered the edges, it crumbles after opening a few times. So deciding to use that same 9mm plywood for the lid. Getting a whole full sized plywood sheet for this isn't cheap though. I found a place that stock zero VOC ply and the cheapest I could find is a $70 hardwood full sized board that needs to be cut.
I need to still figure out how to insulate this plywood on top and seal around this cover. I was thinking a furry strip seal on the side edges of the lid so the lid has a tight fit but needs handles to push it down. I cant put clips on the lid as it sits against the plastic cover but was thinking of pull handles ? What is this foam that is put on top of the lid ?
The Foam is an XPS board, Check on our webshop in a few days, and we will have the product available online.
tighthouse.com.au
ok thanks. I cant believe how complicated it became to renovate an access cover. Becoming a pricey exercise. I bought the wrong cover before also. the correct one is 600x600. Im hoping this plywood lid with furry strips on the ends works out now if I manage to get this plywood ! I cant even mount the cover yet. Dressed pine comes in 12mm, stripping this down to 9-10mm proved difficult ! My ceiling plaster was a huge mess when I took the wood trims off, crumbling and falling apart. I had to plaster patch around the edges and cut it all back to the joist. The original hole was cut badly. Very leaky. Ive got cardboard up there right now to fill it up for now and its bad.
Helpful !