BLARG! My brain was fried while editing this video and I made a mistake. The "party trick" method is where you keep the reticle of your scope aimed at the bull's eye, but adjust the turrets over to where the first impact on the paper was. I accidentally said it backwards in the video, so I tried to edit that part out on RUclips, but now it's a little awkward. Sorry friends!
Which is why I prefer to "do the math" and click up or down, right or left. The grid targets allow this without having to take a walk and also take a tape measure or calipers. The parlor trick requires one to hold the gun perfectly steady while also dialing the turrets to move the reticle to the hole.
Yes, once the rifle is placed in the original position as the first shot with the scope aimed at the center of the target, the windage and elevation adjustments are made so the scope is pointed at the POI. Care must be taken to keep the rifle completely still while these adjustments are made. And of course, the accuracy of the first shot is critical. If the rifle wasn't actually pointing at the center of the target when the first shot was made, the accuracy of the second shot made after the scope adjustments will also be off.
Shot 2, repeat shot 1 because shot 1 was off, repeat shot 2 because 1 was off. Repeat a set of 3 to make sure it was really 1 that was off and not 2. Start shooting hot barrel because trying to figure out if you mounted scope wrong. Repeat steps 1- 20 and grab another box of ammo. Finally try 3 final shots on warmish barrel to make sure your on target.
Repeat all steps, as you should have dialed all the way up and all the way down to settle all the gears and springs since they have been in shipping storage.
We just use 200meters to check the elevation of the 200 meter zero. It ends up being about 2,5 inches high at 100meters, depending on load and cartridge. fine adjustments are made at 100 meters. But.. I only hunt with my rifle using a simple duplex retical, and no shots over 300 meters. (maybe once or twice)
I was helping a guy zero his hunting rifle/scope and after two consistent rounds he'd make an adjustment. However his next shot was totally off based on the adjustment. I finally looked down hi scope and it turns out his parallax was way off. I could move my head and get the crosshairs to point pretty much anywhere I wanted. Every time he got off the gun he had a new sight picture. We adjusted the parallax and things settled down.
Easiest way I have found to sight in once I am on paper is to use a laser. Use a sturdy rest and fire a shot with your reticle on the bullseye. Adjust the laser to be on your point of impact while your reticle is on the bullseye. Then move your turrets to put your reticle on the laser dot. Fire second round to confirm zero. Two-shot zero every time.
I worked with at least 20 different rifles. 223 243 308 etc. People always talk about " flat " shooting rifle . Zeroed at 200 yards..... every single rifle had nearly the same amount of bullet drop !! At 300 yards... 6 to 8 inches drop..... 400 yards.. 26 inches drop.... 500 yards.... 54 inches drop ..... 600 yards..... 72 inches drop. Bottom line.......there is no such thing as a flat shooting bullet/ rifle !!!
Check your ballistic charts and zero at 27 to 35 yards depending on your MV and you should hit 3" high at 150 yards and 3" low and 300 yards. That's a 6" PVC pipe from 1 to 300 yards. Once you zero up close you can verify your hits at 50, 100, 200, 300 etc.
for people who dont know about maximum point blank range and want to zero for maximum point blank range. google a maximum point blank calculator and put in your BC and Muzzle velocity. it will tell you your near and far zero. my .308 has a 23 yard near zero. so i can be dead on at 23 yards (near zero) dead on at 221 yards (far zero) mpbr of 260 yards. have to check those of course. but you can actually zero for mpbr at only 23 yards or whatever short distance your calculator tells you. still want to check that at long range to be sure. Make sure you are exactly on at the short range. 1/2" off is NOT good enough
If you only shoot to 300yds than the 36yd zero is more efficient. The 100yd zero has the advantage of the 100 being the highest impact. So if it’s meant for a target that’s more forgiving vertically, like a silhouette, if you aim for the T zone, it doesn’t matter where you are from 0-300, you will be hitting something vital. With a 36yd or 200yd zero, you have a higher chance of missing high at certain ranges.
As a RSO at my local range, I once watched a guy fire 40 rounds of 7mm Mag trying to sight in his hunting rifle. He would shoot once, then adjust his reticle. So, he was just chasing the hole all around the target. After two boxes of very expensive ammo, he was still several inches off and said, “I think that’s close enough:, and packed up and left. It took every ounce of my self control not to step up and tell him how to do it correctly, but first, RSOs are discouraged from offering training because our purpose at the range is safety, and second, he was with several of his buddies and I didn’t want to shame him in front of his posse.
The other purpose of an RSO is to offer advice when you think its a good idea. Just think he soon might shoot at a living creature to hunt. That as well is safety related and humane process.
8:33 For anyone who doesn't know what maximum point blank range would be. The projectile leaves the rifle, crosses the optic 'zero' plane... Relatively at close range, travels up a modest amount (potentially several inches) along its arc, levels out in the middle range, and then starts to drop back towards the optic zero plane. Its trajectory, arc, continues to drop as it moves forward, and it will reach a point where its drop, equals its early rise. the trajectory curve moves up, comes back down, and drops below the center line. It is possible to exploit that total rise and drop, within a specific range, and possible to change where your rifle optics will naturally zero to the projectile, where the projectile will be high, how high above your point of aim, and what range you will hit you boot end of that wave. If you are aiming for a specific known target size. Ie, a 10 inch plate, or an 8 inch diameter vital. Zone. For an 8 inch target zone. You can accept up to 4 inches rise and up to 4 inches drop. Outside that, you need to adjust to compensate. Your Maximum point blank range (for a given rifle/ammo/optic/zero) would be the distances where, you aim dead center, and the trajectory will be expected to deliver the projectile... Within that 8 inch zone. The tricky part, is that projectile speeds, weights, ballistics, rifle ballistics, All affect the trajectory. So you won't have identical results from. 2 different rifles. Then, once you have your individual. Rifle/ammunition/optic trajectory, then you can work with what range you zero your optic, which will change where the bullet trajectory, intersects the optic plane. You can adjust your MPBR, by adjusting the range you zero the optic.
@@12vibaba Would need to watch that part again, but not sure he mentioned the ammo you're using, and projectile weight specifically. This being said, I might be thinking about a different point in the video or one that comes after the 90% of it I already watched 🙂And adding to everything I wrote above, something new: I trust a rifle when I know it has a certain performance. Once the rifle is trustable, then I just check which ammo I can buy the most, while of course, having in mind not buying... unreliable ammo! 🙂Then I try to master that cartridge. Oh but I'm a target shooter, not a hunter, so just disregard me haha! 🙂
Just bore sight at 100 and with your FFP Scope use your reticle and adjust accordingly. I like to use a paper plate on a piece of brown wrapping paper. Did a Ruger American Predator in 2 shots 2 weeks ago at 100.
I use my lead sled and take a shot. After that first shot, without moving the rifle, I then spin my turrets while looking down the scope in order to move the reticle to where that shot landed. I can get a decent zero in 2-3 shots.
9:24 ... So, if you are using a ballistic App, Or. A DOPE card... The data adjusts for the range you zeroed at. You can zero at 40 meters, if you want to be +/- 4 inches of center aim (8 inch target zone) within range X. Which might be, 200 or 300 yards, before the bullet would drop outside the 4 inch zone... But, nothing stops you from making those precise adjustments, Your ballistic app, or the relevant DOPE card... Won't care what range you zero at... It will just adjust your numbers. A long range shooter, might intentionally use a longer range zero preset, for height, Because it could decrease the amount of compensation at longer ranges...
I would recommend to everyone in the US changing to the metric system and use MRAD scopes instead of MOA. I can't understand why you are torturing yourself with this Emperial nonsense. Advantages of MRAD are: 1 cm at 100m.. 1 click. At 1000m, it's 10cm.. 10 clicks...Not 3/8 of an inch or something. If you are off 1 cm at 100m you just make 1 click. So much more efficient. Sorry if someone feels triggered😂
stop stop stop...Do the paperwork first,. Via a Ballistics Calculator determine your closets zero range also called the First Point Blank range. (exact range is dependent on cartridge reloading variables.) For a basis to ensure your mind you looking at the chart or table right most First Point Blank ranges are usually 25-30 yards. My 30-06 174 grain loads use 27 yards for my First Point Blank Range. Following the ballistics chart of graph my Second Point Blank Range is around 200 yards imagine that you are also zeroing for 200 yards! At the range pace off your first point blank range to the target paper....no rangefinder required! Take one shot at the center of of target designated dot or whatever you use. Since your so close you can easily see the bullet hole in your scope. Next move your turret from the center of the target to that shot. Take another shot at the center of the Target and you should be good except for fine tuning. All done in two shots! For target paper for the first and second shot a newspaper with a dot on it works great! I never bore site using this method. Chances of you not hitting an unfolded newspaper that at 25-30 yards is nill. If you do, immediately check you sight mounting screws. If your on the edges of the paper, you may run out of scope clicks, again look at your site or scope hardware as its usually the culprit. Here's the second thing I do to to confirm my zero. If there are winds less than 10 mile an hour place a clay pigeon, beer can whatever out there at 100 yards. I hate walking that's why I use 100 for the confirmation shot. Now if you have a 1/4 click scope you can move it down 8 clicks for large bore (2 inches high at 100) and 4 clicks (one inch high at 100) for faster bullets out of a small bore. . Take your shot and you should hit your small target. After the hit return your up/down turret 4 or 8 clicks. NO NEED TO CLEAN YOUR RIFLE NOW, CASE IT AND TAKE IT HOME. Nows when the fun begins as you can start working on load development and rifle tuning to tighten up your long range shots. This works great for hunters traveling as you save on ammo and time. If the guide wants you to shoot longer show him your ballistics data. TELL HIM "SIR you just cant fool physics" Haha
1:14 The Ballistic Apps, from. Free versions, to. Affordable... Make that part quite easy. Set your range and zero to whatever, Use proper data for your rifle and Ammo, And it will give you appropriate clicks, No major mental math needed.
1:14 The Ballistic Apps, from. Free versions, to. Affordable... Make that part quite easy. Set your range and zero to whatever, Use proper data for your rifle and Ammo, And it will give you appropriate clicks, No major mental math needed.
9:24 But yeah, nothing stops you from dialing in, even if you have 'callibrated' your rifle and optic, so that inside range 200 or 300, your shots should be fairly accurate, even if you don't have as much time to obsess over every precision detail. Then, when you have time, dial in. But know that within, your calibrate MPBR, that you established, for the Target Size and Target maximum range... You should be within your preset tolerances
Shoot a rock........ no need to be on paper. Set your target up at 100 yds, now on lowest magnification, pick a rock on ground near target, fire at it, you will see the impact, adjust accordingly, your next shot on paper should be within an inch or 2 of bull, make final adjustment to fine tune and fire. Really is no substitute for 3 shot zero. And thats WITHOUT putting it "on paper" first.....
🤦👎🤣..... bore site at 10 yards. Then take it to 50yds take 1 shot. (Where aimed your riffle. Hold your cross hairs on that spot. Then, use turrets to move cross hairs to the hole you shot.) If your shooting 270 - 30 06 and your scope is 1/4 moa adjustments. At this point at 50yrds. Dial up your scope 4 clicks. Take your 100yrd shot. You may need to move two more clicks up or down or left and right. Make sure theres no wind when sighting the gun. This is the steps for the method he is showing. I have a faster method.
EVERY SINGLE bud style (unless they have an over ear prong) ive ever tried, sucks and falls out. Even trying each ear tip they include. For 300 bucks, im not about to chance it. Ill stick with my cheapos.
Recently purchased a Remington 783 270 and ordered a scope call the BSA sweet 270 which uses torrents adjustable to the bullet weight. Could you make a video using this scope?
5:52 Could you explain that? It sounds wrong. If all you are doing is moving your point of aim, from the center of the target, which had a low right point of impact... Only changing aim to the previous point of impact, would move the next point of impact down further. Did you mean you would adjust the optics , so that they are adjusted to the previous point of impact? That makes sense, because it's how far the previous point of aim was from the previous point of impact. But. That isn't what you said, and a New shooter... Trying to learn from your instructions... So for the new student... What exact adjustments did you make from 1st shot, to second shot.
It literally takes me 300 rounds Roughly to zero my iron sighted AR or AR because I shoot 10ish rounds a day on my property from 100 yards and I micro adjust until its DEAD BALLS ON and that's been my average, nit just zeroing but shooting water filled mini Gatorade bottles at 100 yards, but I fine adjust until I'm dead nuts on at 100y. I want to be able to hit a chipmunk at 100 yards if I want and know any miss was on my and not small misalignment.
Look at 4:19 and 13:49 in the video. As a Veteran, Instructor and RSO of many years, "SHAME ON YOU" You broke a very important rule! Where does your bullet go after it hits your 50yd paper target? Want to bet your kids life on it? Hornady Match ammo in your rifle has the potential to send that bullet hundreds of yards beyond your target. What is your backstop? You have very little sight distance of that dirt road beyond the rise.
As a farmer I have my rifle nearby at all times. However... try carrying your phone.. pocket knife..... three extra bullets.....and ear plugs all in your pocket ??? This makes for rather uncomfortable sitting in a tractor for 7 hours. First of all the phone wont fit in any pockets. Now sit on the ear plug case for 7 hours.. ?? Ouch !
Might have the rifle zeroed at 100 yards.......but yah still need to zero everything after that to know where your shooting... I zero my rifle at 25 yard increments. And..if you change powders. bullets..... yah start all over ! So.....in reality there is no such thing as " zeroing " your rifle in ! Its about adapting to the rifle !
What 308 ammo do you recommend for deer hunting? Most my shots will be 100yards probably a little less. I'm using an ar10. This is my first year deer hunting so I'm not sure what ammo is best? Is a standard 150grain bullet going faster better or a heavier slower one in that range? I know each barrel is going to like different ammo for grouping but still gotta be something that has beat average
If you think you gun goes out of zero while hanging on the wall, how cheap was your gun and scope. My brother has a model 700 remington I gave him in the 80's. It has never been touch since I sighted it in in 1976. 25-06 with a Redfield 4 x 12.
Okay I don’t believe the sun is gonna change your zero. That’s absolutely ludicrous, how would lighting change your reticle? It’s not dependent on lighting, it functions in of itself. Your reticle can’t know differences in lighting, it just functions as it is.
what would be a good way if I can't take out the bolt from the barrel? I usually shoot type of bolt-action air gun (it doesn't require license which happen to be a pain in the back side in my country). Is shoot/correct/rinse and repeat my best way or are there any tricks? taking out the bolt requires to disassemble practically most of the gun.
All you did is tell 1ks guys in arkasas that you only need to shoot 2 practice shoots a year to confirm their scopes/sights. Exsept maybe not....because your voice is annoying in AR.
2 shot zero? There is 3 holes in that paper and still no zero. Why not just take 20 shots at 35 yards then claim OK now we'll start counting the 2 shots. How are you people following this guy?
What baffles me is so many hunters dont shoot the rifle except once a year. Typically same box of ammo. Yet go out to zero like magically in the safe everything changed on its own. I regularly shoot and once zero is set. Very rarely is it tweaked unless changing a round type or zero distance, which is rare. To me if you are hunting, my expectation is you practice shooting more than not at all. I hear it at the ranges enough. Oh boy hunter types pulling out a rifle after a year... Im surprised you do not have an adjustable zero bench to do this.
By what mechanism does the sun "push" the bullet away 1 click? Light is light, or is it like heating that part of the scope and slightly warping the optics? Some sort of sideways mirage?
I know there is a million methods, but I laser boresight, laser to the center, then my bore center line to scope center line is 3.25", I place a stick dot there, and first shot is always within 3", and then I just fine tune it.
I'd Take Your Video More Seriously if You Drove a Ford PuP, anyone that owns a POS RAM isn't serious about anything. (USAF Ret. Capt, 20th SOS, 27th Spl Ops Wing, 20yrs Nam 70-73)
can you do a video on judging which hashmarks need to be used for longer shots on the vortex venom 5-25 in milliradian? I cannot seem to understand how to judge which hashmark to place my target on when I'm shooting out to around 500y. I've got it zeroed at 100y.
Hello, I think a laser bore sighter can help. If you install the device in the barrel and then rotate it 360 degrees, the laser will trace a circle on the target.. Then you mark the center of this trace circle and put the reticle on that. This way you start off with a pretty well sighted scope, without even shooting at all. What do you think of this method?
So, if I don’t count any shots I make before I get on the paper, I can get away with not adding them to my shot count? Cool. Does that work in golf as well? Don’t count the strokes until you are on the green? I guess I never realised how great an athlete I am.
Hypothetically: if two hunters unaware of each other both so happen to spot dinner, both simultaneously take a shot and head towards dinner, who gets to take it home? Is forensic done to see who's shot was the closest to bulls eye or duel it out?🤔
It will work on a 2nd focal plane scope if there is some kind of reticle with marks. Usually it’s at max magnification or in the case of certain scopes is that there is a triangle on the magnification setting.
I bore sight as you did, but at about 10 feet (indoors with a bright light on the target) setting the sight exactly the distance from the center of the bore to center of cross hairs, I then go to to 25 yards and get the bullet hitting about 1 inch low of aim point. At 100 yards, I am usually within a couple of inches.
Arg. You are correct. My brain was FRIED after four hours of editing this video and I said it wrong. I edited that part out of the video (will be updated in a few hours) so it doesn't trick people with my mistake.
Jim obviously times have changed, but I remember sighting in at 200 or 2 inches high at 100 on typical hunting rifles. This went on for decades. But what where we shooting, your Classic Remington 700, in a 30-06 or 270. You had a 3x9 Leupold scope Set it and forget it. No turrets to turn or special reticle, it was just a simple cross hair. I still remember many scopes from the 60's that had no turrets to work what so ever. The elevation and windage was done using the bases. Many Weatherby's had those.
I have found when bore sighting. An odd shape like a square is hard to get centered in the bore. I found using a wheel on a vehicle is much easier. My niebor parks rite at one hundred yards from the bench in my garage. The round shape of the wheel, with silver center and black tire surround. Makes it much easier to center. I find doing this I am way closer bore sighting. Than with an odd shape.
LOL FUNNY SHIET IF ONLY THAT WAS TRUE 2 SHOT SERO DON'T WORK IF YOU JUST PLAIN OL SUCK AT SHOOTING SHOULD BE TEACHING ...BREATHING TECHNIQUES BEFORE PULLING ANY TRIGGER
Great content as always. Mabe an episode on reading the Mirage, which can have just as much effect if not more than wind ,especially when the wind is blowing from all different directions. Keep up the amazing work 👏 👌 😊
BLARG! My brain was fried while editing this video and I made a mistake. The "party trick" method is where you keep the reticle of your scope aimed at the bull's eye, but adjust the turrets over to where the first impact on the paper was. I accidentally said it backwards in the video, so I tried to edit that part out on RUclips, but now it's a little awkward. Sorry friends!
my mind was breaking trying to figure out how both ways could be true.
lol i thought my whole life was a lie for a second there
Which is why I prefer to "do the math" and click up or down, right or left. The grid targets allow this without having to take a walk and also take a tape measure or calipers. The parlor trick requires one to hold the gun perfectly steady while also dialing the turrets to move the reticle to the hole.
I was about to say that was a trick, cuz there is no way that would work!!
Yes, once the rifle is placed in the original position as the first shot with the scope aimed at the center of the target, the windage and elevation adjustments are made so the scope is pointed at the POI. Care must be taken to keep the rifle completely still while these adjustments are made. And of course, the accuracy of the first shot is critical. If the rifle wasn't actually pointing at the center of the target when the first shot was made, the accuracy of the second shot made after the scope adjustments will also be off.
Shot 2, repeat shot 1 because shot 1 was off, repeat shot 2 because 1 was off. Repeat a set of 3 to make sure it was really 1 that was off and not 2. Start shooting hot barrel because trying to figure out if you mounted scope wrong. Repeat steps 1- 20 and grab another box of ammo. Finally try 3 final shots on warmish barrel to make sure your on target.
Repeat all steps, as you should have dialed all the way up and all the way down to settle all the gears and springs since they have been in shipping storage.
Lol
We just use 200meters to check the elevation of the 200 meter zero. It ends up being about 2,5 inches high at 100meters, depending on load and cartridge. fine adjustments are made at 100 meters.
But.. I only hunt with my rifle using a simple duplex retical, and no shots over 300 meters. (maybe once or twice)
I was helping a guy zero his hunting rifle/scope and after two consistent rounds he'd make an adjustment. However his next shot was totally off based on the adjustment. I finally looked down hi scope and it turns out his parallax was way off. I could move my head and get the crosshairs to point pretty much anywhere I wanted. Every time he got off the gun he had a new sight picture. We adjusted the parallax and things settled down.
Thanks for sharing your lifetime of knowledge!
Wasting ammo, no such thing. A day at the range is never wasted
I agree m'friend. I always enjoy shooting. Always learning, always a different challenge.
Payment for peace of mind is worth it
Handloaders certainly don't waste anything. We shoot a lot, and we recycle the brass with new components; hardly wasteful.
Agree absolutely 👍 If it goes, “BOOM”, it’s never a waste
@@TasteLikeChicken
Uhhhh, you might prefer it to go "Bang" instead of "BOOM!" Bad stuff usually happens when they go BOOM... just sayin'.
To title the video "Zero any rifle in two shots" and then say, "It's unrealistic to zero a rifle in 2 shots" is real click bait-y. Knock it off, man.
Not at all click bait-y, just the truth and you should realize that prior to him saying it. It’s easy zeroing for those that don’t know.
Not click bait you must not know your scope or what moa is I do it in 1/2 a shot
I've been shooting for 65+ - years, and I learn something new when I watch everyone of your videos. This old man says Thank You..
Easiest way I have found to sight in once I am on paper is to use a laser. Use a sturdy rest and fire a shot with your reticle on the bullseye. Adjust the laser to be on your point of impact while your reticle is on the bullseye. Then move your turrets to put your reticle on the laser dot. Fire second round to confirm zero. Two-shot zero every time.
agreed, its only old heads that dont like these "gimmicks" lol
If you zero your scope at 33 yards you will be 1/4 inch high at 300 yards. A scope zeroed in 70-08 degrees F, it will not be zero at 32 degrees F
I worked with at least 20 different rifles. 223 243 308 etc. People always talk about " flat " shooting rifle . Zeroed at 200 yards..... every single rifle had nearly the same amount of bullet drop !! At 300 yards... 6 to 8 inches drop..... 400 yards.. 26 inches drop.... 500 yards.... 54 inches drop ..... 600 yards..... 72 inches drop. Bottom line.......there is no such thing as a flat shooting bullet/ rifle !!!
Nice job! I’ve done the party trick bunches of times and it works. Minimal ammo used is always good these days.
Check your ballistic charts and zero at 27 to 35 yards depending on your MV and you should hit 3" high at 150 yards and 3" low and 300 yards. That's a 6" PVC pipe from 1 to 300 yards. Once you zero up close you can verify your hits at 50, 100, 200, 300 etc.
Good point.
for people who dont know about maximum point blank range and want to zero for maximum point blank range. google a maximum point blank calculator and put in your BC and Muzzle velocity. it will tell you your near and far zero. my .308 has a 23 yard near zero. so i can be dead on at 23 yards (near zero) dead on at 221 yards (far zero) mpbr of 260 yards. have to check those of course. but you can actually zero for mpbr at only 23 yards or whatever short distance your calculator tells you. still want to check that at long range to be sure. Make sure you are exactly on at the short range. 1/2" off is NOT good enough
How I do my ar setups.
Though for my hunting rifle I prefer 100 or 200. Sometimes depending the load and caliber I'll do 150. To get a better mpbr.
So if my. 338 win mag shooting 225g sst is set to 1.5" high at 50m, will it be higher or lower at 100?
Except zeroing at 100 is ridiculous unless the cartridge you are shooting only good to 100 - 150 yards. 200 yard zero is far more efficient
If you only shoot to 300yds than the 36yd zero is more efficient. The 100yd zero has the advantage of the 100 being the highest impact. So if it’s meant for a target that’s more forgiving vertically, like a silhouette, if you aim for the T zone, it doesn’t matter where you are from 0-300, you will be hitting something vital. With a 36yd or 200yd zero, you have a higher chance of missing high at certain ranges.
As a RSO at my local range, I once watched a guy fire 40 rounds of 7mm Mag trying to sight in his hunting rifle. He would shoot once, then adjust his reticle. So, he was just chasing the hole all around the target. After two boxes of very expensive ammo, he was still several inches off and said, “I think that’s close enough:, and packed up and left. It took every ounce of my self control not to step up and tell him how to do it correctly, but first, RSOs are discouraged from offering training because our purpose at the range is safety, and second, he was with several of his buddies and I didn’t want to shame him in front of his posse.
Are you sure???? That it wasn't you back before you learned different haha
At 224 you confirmed total b.s.on your click bait title but here i am typing points for you algorithm
I m sorry for what I said yesterday.
The other purpose of an RSO is to offer advice when you think its a good idea. Just think he soon might shoot at a living creature to hunt. That as well is safety related and humane process.
8:33
For anyone who doesn't know what maximum point blank range would be.
The projectile leaves the rifle, crosses the optic 'zero' plane... Relatively at close range, travels up a modest amount (potentially several inches) along its arc, levels out in the middle range, and then starts to drop back towards the optic zero plane.
Its trajectory, arc, continues to drop as it moves forward, and it will reach a point where its drop, equals its early rise.
the trajectory curve moves up, comes back down, and drops below the center line.
It is possible to exploit that total rise and drop, within a specific range, and possible to change where your rifle optics will naturally zero to the projectile, where the projectile will be high, how high above your point of aim, and what range you will hit you boot end of that wave.
If you are aiming for a specific known target size. Ie, a 10 inch plate, or an 8 inch diameter vital. Zone.
For an 8 inch target zone. You can accept up to 4 inches rise and up to 4 inches drop.
Outside that, you need to adjust to compensate.
Your Maximum point blank range (for a given rifle/ammo/optic/zero) would be the distances where, you aim dead center, and the trajectory will be expected to deliver the projectile... Within that 8 inch zone.
The tricky part, is that projectile speeds, weights, ballistics, rifle ballistics,
All affect the trajectory. So you won't have identical results from. 2 different rifles.
Then, once you have your individual. Rifle/ammunition/optic trajectory, then you can work with what range you zero your optic, which will change where the bullet trajectory, intersects the optic plane.
You can adjust your MPBR, by adjusting the range you zero the optic.
yea that's what he said🙄
@@12vibaba sort of. In a manner of speaking.
@@12vibaba Would need to watch that part again, but not sure he mentioned the ammo you're using, and projectile weight specifically. This being said, I might be thinking about a different point in the video or one that comes after the 90% of it I already watched 🙂And adding to everything I wrote above, something new: I trust a rifle when I know it has a certain performance. Once the rifle is trustable, then I just check which ammo I can buy the most, while of course, having in mind not buying... unreliable ammo! 🙂Then I try to master that cartridge. Oh but I'm a target shooter, not a hunter, so just disregard me haha! 🙂
Add a 0 after that number and that's me.
You arent alone
Haha. I've been there 🙂
great tip about the sun...I have been shooting,hunting since age 5 ..now 54...and I have never heard that...thank you🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👍
Just bore sight at 100 and with your FFP Scope use your reticle and adjust accordingly. I like to use a paper plate on a piece of brown wrapping paper. Did a Ruger American Predator in 2 shots 2 weeks ago at 100.
I use my lead sled and take a shot. After that first shot, without moving the rifle, I then spin my turrets while looking down the scope in order to move the reticle to where that shot landed. I can get a decent zero in 2-3 shots.
9:24
...
So, if you are using a ballistic App,
Or. A DOPE card...
The data adjusts for the range you zeroed at.
You can zero at 40 meters, if you want to be +/- 4 inches of center aim (8 inch target zone) within range X.
Which might be, 200 or 300 yards, before the bullet would drop outside the 4 inch zone...
But, nothing stops you from making those precise adjustments,
Your ballistic app, or the relevant DOPE card... Won't care what range you zero at...
It will just adjust your numbers.
A long range shooter, might intentionally use a longer range zero preset, for height,
Because it could decrease the amount of compensation at longer ranges...
Wasting ammo doesnt exist.
Seeing as I don’t even remember the last time I saw large rifle magnum primers on a shelf for sale, I strongly disagree. 😂
I would recommend to everyone in the US changing to the metric system and use MRAD scopes instead of MOA. I can't understand why you are torturing yourself with this Emperial nonsense.
Advantages of MRAD are: 1 cm at 100m.. 1 click. At 1000m, it's 10cm.. 10 clicks...Not 3/8 of an inch or something.
If you are off 1 cm at 100m you just make 1 click. So much more efficient.
Sorry if someone feels triggered😂
stop stop stop...Do the paperwork first,. Via a Ballistics Calculator determine your closets zero range also called the First Point Blank range. (exact range is dependent on cartridge reloading variables.) For a basis to ensure your mind you looking at the chart or table right most First Point Blank ranges are usually 25-30 yards.
My 30-06 174 grain loads use 27 yards for my First Point Blank Range. Following the ballistics chart of graph my Second Point Blank Range is around 200 yards imagine that you are also zeroing for 200 yards!
At the range pace off your first point blank range to the target paper....no rangefinder required! Take one shot at the center of of target designated dot or whatever you use. Since your so close you can easily see the bullet hole in your scope. Next move your turret from the center of the target to that shot. Take another shot at the center of the Target and you should be good except for fine tuning. All done in two shots!
For target paper for the first and second shot a newspaper with a dot on it works great! I never bore site using this method. Chances of you not hitting an unfolded newspaper that at 25-30 yards is nill. If you do, immediately check you sight mounting screws. If your on the edges of the paper, you may run out of scope clicks, again look at your site or scope hardware as its usually the culprit.
Here's the second thing I do to to confirm my zero. If there are winds less than 10 mile an hour place a clay pigeon, beer can whatever out there at 100 yards. I hate walking that's why I use 100 for the confirmation shot. Now if you have a 1/4 click scope you can move it down 8 clicks for large bore (2 inches high at 100) and 4 clicks (one inch high at 100) for faster bullets out of a small bore. . Take your shot and you should hit your small target. After the hit return your up/down turret 4 or 8 clicks.
NO NEED TO CLEAN YOUR RIFLE NOW, CASE IT AND TAKE IT HOME.
Nows when the fun begins as you can start working on load development and rifle tuning to tighten up your long range shots.
This works great for hunters traveling as you save on ammo and time. If the guide wants you to shoot longer show him your ballistics data. TELL HIM "SIR you just cant fool physics" Haha
1:14
The Ballistic Apps, from. Free versions, to. Affordable...
Make that part quite easy.
Set your range and zero to whatever,
Use proper data for your rifle and Ammo,
And it will give you appropriate clicks,
No major mental math needed.
1:14
The Ballistic Apps, from. Free versions, to. Affordable...
Make that part quite easy.
Set your range and zero to whatever,
Use proper data for your rifle and Ammo,
And it will give you appropriate clicks,
No major mental math needed.
9:24
But yeah, nothing stops you from dialing in, even if you have 'callibrated' your rifle and optic, so that inside range 200 or 300, your shots should be fairly accurate, even if you don't have as much time to obsess over every precision detail.
Then, when you have time, dial in.
But know that within, your calibrate MPBR, that you established, for the Target Size and Target maximum range...
You should be within your preset tolerances
The hole on paper is the BORELINE. Bring the crosshairs, the SIGHTLINE, ON the BORELINE HOLE. Dont over complicate this thing
Shoot a rock........ no need to be on paper. Set your target up at 100 yds, now on lowest magnification, pick a rock on ground near target, fire at it, you will see the impact, adjust accordingly, your next shot on paper should be within an inch or 2 of bull, make final adjustment to fine tune and fire. Really is no substitute for 3 shot zero. And thats WITHOUT putting it "on paper" first.....
🤦👎🤣..... bore site at 10 yards. Then take it to 50yds take 1 shot. (Where aimed your riffle. Hold your cross hairs on that spot. Then, use turrets to move cross hairs to the hole you shot.)
If your shooting 270 - 30 06 and your scope is 1/4 moa adjustments. At this point at 50yrds. Dial up your scope 4 clicks. Take your 100yrd shot. You may need to move two more clicks up or down or left and right. Make sure theres no wind when sighting the gun.
This is the steps for the method he is showing.
I have a faster method.
EVERY SINGLE bud style (unless they have an over ear prong) ive ever tried, sucks and falls out. Even trying each ear tip they include. For 300 bucks, im not about to chance it. Ill stick with my cheapos.
Recently purchased a Remington 783 270 and ordered a scope call the BSA sweet 270 which uses torrents adjustable to the bullet weight. Could you make a video using this scope?
5:52
Could you explain that?
It sounds wrong. If all you are doing is moving your point of aim, from the center of the target, which had a low right point of impact... Only changing aim to the previous point of impact, would move the next point of impact down further.
Did you mean you would adjust the optics , so that they are adjusted to the previous point of impact?
That makes sense, because it's how far the previous point of aim was from the previous point of impact.
But.
That isn't what you said, and a New shooter... Trying to learn from your instructions...
So for the new student...
What exact adjustments did you make from 1st shot, to second shot.
It literally takes me 300 rounds Roughly to zero my iron sighted AR or AR because I shoot 10ish rounds a day on my property from 100 yards and I micro adjust until its DEAD BALLS ON and that's been my average, nit just zeroing but shooting water filled mini Gatorade bottles at 100 yards, but I fine adjust until I'm dead nuts on at 100y. I want to be able to hit a chipmunk at 100 yards if I want and know any miss was on my and not small misalignment.
Look at 4:19 and 13:49 in the video. As a Veteran, Instructor and RSO of many years, "SHAME ON YOU" You broke a very important rule! Where does your bullet go after it hits your 50yd paper target? Want to bet your kids life on it? Hornady Match ammo in your rifle has the potential to send that bullet hundreds of yards beyond your target. What is your backstop? You have very little sight distance of that dirt road beyond the rise.
As a farmer I have my rifle nearby at all times. However... try carrying your phone.. pocket knife..... three extra bullets.....and ear plugs all in your pocket ??? This makes for rather uncomfortable sitting in a tractor for 7 hours. First of all the phone wont fit in any pockets. Now sit on the ear plug case for 7 hours.. ?? Ouch !
Might have the rifle zeroed at 100 yards.......but yah still need to zero everything after that to know where your shooting... I zero my rifle at 25 yard increments. And..if you change powders. bullets..... yah start all over ! So.....in reality there is no such thing as " zeroing " your rifle in ! Its about adapting to the rifle !
I shoot between 200mand500m but zero 100m at 500 at 14.3 clicks. I got my weaver in 76 a 10x with parallax and carbide seats still great.
What 308 ammo do you recommend for deer hunting? Most my shots will be 100yards probably a little less. I'm using an ar10. This is my first year deer hunting so I'm not sure what ammo is best? Is a standard 150grain bullet going faster better or a heavier slower one in that range? I know each barrel is going to like different ammo for grouping but still gotta be something that has beat average
I see that you have the Bergara Picatinny rail. I also want to get it for my B14² Crest. Would you recommend the 0 MOA or 20 MOA version?
If you think you gun goes out of zero while hanging on the wall, how cheap was your gun and scope. My brother has a model 700 remington I gave him in the 80's. It has never been touch since I sighted it in in 1976. 25-06 with a Redfield 4 x 12.
Okay I don’t believe the sun is gonna change your zero. That’s absolutely ludicrous, how would lighting change your reticle? It’s not dependent on lighting, it functions in of itself. Your reticle can’t know differences in lighting, it just functions as it is.
what would be a good way if I can't take out the bolt from the barrel? I usually shoot type of bolt-action air gun (it doesn't require license which happen to be a pain in the back side in my country). Is shoot/correct/rinse and repeat my best way or are there any tricks?
taking out the bolt requires to disassemble practically most of the gun.
All you did is tell 1ks guys in arkasas that you only need to shoot 2 practice shoots a year to confirm their scopes/sights.
Exsept maybe not....because your voice is annoying in AR.
2 shot zero? There is 3 holes in that paper and still no zero.
Why not just take 20 shots at 35 yards then claim OK now we'll start counting the 2 shots.
How are you people following this guy?
I thought a 2 shot zero would be 1 shot at 100yds then adjust POI for 2nd shot. Using a Vortex Scope you can lol!!
What baffles me is so many hunters dont shoot the rifle except once a year. Typically same box of ammo. Yet go out to zero like magically in the safe everything changed on its own. I regularly shoot and once zero is set. Very rarely is it tweaked unless changing a round type or zero distance, which is rare. To me if you are hunting, my expectation is you practice shooting more than not at all. I hear it at the ranges enough. Oh boy hunter types pulling out a rifle after a year... Im surprised you do not have an adjustable zero bench to do this.
Rambling makes it hard to watch. Just stick to the facts: step 1, step 2….. I don’t care what you’ve done in the past or what doesn’t work or why.
Nice rifle, heck of a scope for woods stalking🤔. I like to keep things light and simple, but that’s just a 65 year old talking.
By what mechanism does the sun "push" the bullet away 1 click? Light is light, or is it like heating that part of the scope and slightly warping the optics? Some sort of sideways mirage?
Crap…..you took a credibility hit shilling that (not) ear pro. Emily deserves much better……
I know there is a million methods, but I laser boresight, laser to the center, then my bore center line to scope center line is 3.25", I place a stick dot there, and first shot is always within 3", and then I just fine tune it.
I'd Take Your Video More Seriously if You Drove a Ford PuP, anyone that owns a POS RAM isn't serious about anything. (USAF Ret. Capt, 20th SOS, 27th Spl Ops Wing, 20yrs Nam 70-73)
can you do a video on judging which hashmarks need to be used for longer shots on the vortex venom 5-25 in milliradian? I cannot seem to understand how to judge which hashmark to place my target on when I'm shooting out to around 500y. I've got it zeroed at 100y.
Hello, I think a laser bore sighter can help. If you install the device in the barrel and then rotate it 360 degrees, the laser will trace a circle on the target.. Then you mark the center of this trace circle and put the reticle on that. This way you start off with a pretty well sighted scope, without even shooting at all. What do you think of this method?
50 yards is a waste of time from my experience. Just make sure your paper is large enough. 15x15 should work
So, if I don’t count any shots I make before I get on the paper, I can get away with not adding them to my shot count? Cool. Does that work in golf as well? Don’t count the strokes until you are on the green?
I guess I never realised how great an athlete I am.
Number before 1 mistake.. Not zeroing to ur Cold Bore. Stop cheating on warmed up bbl.
Why are there random blacked out frames on all the youtube videos i watch? For this video it was when he removes the bolt from the gun...
36 yd zero for AR 5.56 with red dot or holographic is best I think!
Hypothetically: if two hunters unaware of each other both so happen to spot dinner, both simultaneously take a shot and head towards dinner, who gets to take it home? Is forensic done to see who's shot was the closest to bulls eye or duel it out?🤔
The sun will affect my impact or my reticle to the opposite side? You've said both and those have an opposite effect.
Should have scrapped it and redone the video. This was very very confusing and not the 2 shot method I use.
So your "Zero Any Rifle in 2 Shots " only took you 7 shots? Plus what ever you shot after you zeroed the turrets...
Just manual boresite then 2 shots you should be in..40 would be double roughly 😮😅😊
I ve been shooting for 45 days.
Damn sure know if your right i m wrong!!!!!
I’m not so good at counting but I saw more than 2 shot holes :P
How is aiming at the low shot zeroing anything? Your sight is still off. I don't understand the point of that at all.
It’s for hunting lol 1/2 “ of wind drift isn’t going to miss.. you get a little to benchresty lol
Looks like you copied Ron Spomer's video. Congrats on copying someone elses video.
You should compare 35 50 and 100 yds zeros
I think you mean. " yuo ate keeping the gun where it was and moving the radical over the pullet holl
Great vid brother. Really good reminder about the sun and shadows.
Are you not supposed to aim back at your point of aim and then bring cross hairs too the point of impact, not the opposite way?
I don’t get it, if you are shooting high and to the right don’t you have to adjust your sight left and down which is the opposite?
Is it just me or dies that cheek piece look like it's on backwards? To me I can't see how it makes sense for it to be so far back.
It will work on a 2nd focal plane scope if there is some kind of reticle with marks. Usually it’s at max magnification or in the case of certain scopes is that there is a triangle on the magnification setting.
We’re in the UK so the Sun effecting our glass is incredibly rare. 😜
Jim i.do.200 yard zeros on my huntingbrifle at 100..
Sun issue very interesting. Learnt something thank you.
Hold it on dead center mover ur scope to were ur bullet hit soghted in . Done faster easyer
I bore sight as you did, but at about 10 feet (indoors with a bright light on the target) setting the sight exactly the distance from the center of the bore to center of cross hairs, I then go to to 25 yards and get the bullet hitting about 1 inch low of aim point. At 100 yards, I am usually within a couple of inches.
Ok ok that’s doable
Cant you just "zero" at 50 yards 0.3" high to get a 200 yard zero?
So basically you need 12 bullets not 2. thanks for nothing
My grandpa showed me this trick when I was 12 years old.
I just shoot one and then I adjust the reticle to the bullet hole and shoot again and came accurate
sooo... the "party trick" i thought it worked the other way, aim at bullseye, shoot, then aim at bullseye and move reticle to poi. why am i backwards?
You are correct, the way Jim explained it will put you further away from bullseye.
Arg. You are correct. My brain was FRIED after four hours of editing this video and I said it wrong. I edited that part out of the video (will be updated in a few hours) so it doesn't trick people with my mistake.
Jim obviously times have changed, but I remember sighting in at 200 or 2 inches high at 100 on typical hunting rifles. This went on for decades. But what where we shooting, your Classic Remington 700, in a 30-06 or 270. You had a 3x9 Leupold scope Set it and forget it. No turrets to turn or special reticle, it was just a simple cross hair. I still remember many scopes from the 60's that had no turrets to work what so ever. The elevation and windage was done using the bases. Many Weatherby's had those.
Yes, back then it was called hunting, and it was done with a hunting rifle. I sure miss those days.
So funny your scope is in mils but measuring in inches down range
After 5 shots, the barrel gets too hot and unreliable for zeroing.
I have found when bore sighting. An odd shape like a square is hard to get centered in the bore. I found using a wheel on a vehicle is much easier. My niebor parks rite at one hundred yards from the bench in my garage. The round shape of the wheel, with silver center and black tire surround. Makes it much easier to center. I find doing this I am way closer bore sighting. Than with an odd shape.
How does your friend feel when you shoot the sidewall of his tire?
@donbartholomew8273 pretty hard to send a projectile, with the bolt removed. How else would I look thru the bore?
Laser bore sighter I think is the only way to get on paper with a shotgun
Does anyone use the adjustable rail to zero or is it to inconsistent?
Why not use a laser in the bore to get you close before even taking any shots ?.
You're flinching like hell bro. Look into that.
LOL
FUNNY SHIET
IF ONLY THAT WAS TRUE
2 SHOT SERO DON'T WORK
IF YOU JUST PLAIN OL SUCK AT SHOOTING
SHOULD BE TEACHING ...BREATHING TECHNIQUES BEFORE PULLING ANY TRIGGER
I love how you blacked out the screen when taking out the bolt. 😂 The things we gotta do when making firearms videos to not get canceled.
Great content as always. Mabe an episode on reading the Mirage, which can have just as much effect if not more than wind ,especially when the wind is blowing from all different directions. Keep up the amazing work 👏 👌 😊
@@tjfishing2714 Thank you? 🤷🤔
@@JoeMac1983 so
@@tjfishing2714 Pine nuts are a favorite food of the red squirrel.
You ant got no trees. Lol
I know one that shoot whit old diopter in 500m 1 in one hole.
I really enjoy your channel. you really use your guns and they get dirty. some channels the rifles seem more like show pieces