This is such excellent information! I think alot of newbie weavers do not know this and spend more money than necessary in buying reeds. Weaving is not an inexpensive craft to undertake for sure! Thank you again,
Awesome! I had wondered if their were modifications that could be made instead of buy more reads or different machines. I like learning ways to make what we have work for us. Thank you so much! 😊
You're very welcome! I find that weaving certainly isn't the least expensive craft. But once you have the basics, you can weave nearly all the things! Best of luck to you with your projects!!
Hi love your videos, so informative. I've just purchased a Louet Erica having cone from a rigid heddle where I used mostly wool. So I jumped in feet first to do tea towels on 8/2 cotton and warped about sometimes 2 in a dent sometimes 1 without any pattern thought!!!??? Lesson learnt, the weave is all over the place, gaps too wide, too close. But glad its gone wrong as its a great learning curve.
Hi! I have a quick question. You may have already answered this in another video that I have not yet seen. Wince very few of us can afford a complete array of reeds to match any and all projects (as you pointed out in this vid), what would you recommend as the best dpi reeds to have in a weaving arsenal? It would seem like reeds with fewer dpi would accommodate more projects, but just wondering which reeds you would recommend,at least until I can win big in the lottery! lol Thanks for any assist!
Great question! I have woven for 17 years using either a 12-dent & an 8-dent reed. And honestly, I could have easily done everything using a 12-dent. Now, I rarely ever use really fine yarns - instead opting for lots of cotton carpet warp as my warp. So part of the decision should be based on what yarn you like to use in your warp. If you use a tiny yarn with lots of ends per inch, it could be very helpful to have a reed with lots of dents per inch to keep those yarns better separated. I hope that makes sense! Let me know if you have follow up questions! Thanks so much!
@@ActonCreative Thanks for that info! Really helpful. I've often wondered if I should invest in more reeds, but have so far managed not to give in. The tinniest warp I think I have ever used would be like a cotton rug warp, so I think I am good. Thanks again!😄
Thank you for covering this topic. I’ve been curious. Haven’t quite managed to warp my new-to-me loom and had been wondering if I needed to match my reed.
If I want to weave a silk satin weave using a 22 denier yarn on a countermarch loom (to make those shiny pillow case fabric) , what’s the best and max dpi I should have ?
@@NA-hs1xm Hi! I haven't worked with silk much, so sadly I don't have advice for you. But I always recommend starting with the place you purchased the yarn to see what details are included in the description. Best of luck to you!
Thanks for sharing this, Chris! I have been searching for a 7 or 8 DPI reed for my tapestry loom and I cannot find a reed that would fit in my loom. However, I found a 14 DPI reed that fits-I thought I could use this reed and sley it in a 0-1 pattern to get 7 DPI. I am pretty sure the warp threads would be a bit tight in the slots, although they will run smoothly as I am using cotton. I hardly use the beater while I weave, I mainly use a comb to beat down the weft, so I am primarily using the reed to separate the warp. Do you think this will work? Or should I continue to search for the 7 or 8 DPI. I appreciate your thoughts :) Thank you!
Pamela - hey! Chris asked me to respond to your message as I have *some* experience with tapestry weaving. But, I'm not familiar with tapestry looms that have reeds or beaters; my experience is mostly with hand-held tapestry looms. I am familiar with tapestry weavers who use a two-shaft floor loom (usually some sort of rug loom) and that would have both a reed and beater. If that is your scenario, then I think that skipping dents on a 14 DPI reed to achieve 7 would be the perfect solution. I know there are reed charts that help advise what sort of reed threading patterns make the most even beating affect in the final cloth and the 0-1 pattern would be the obvious solution on such a chart. I hope this helps! If I've entirely missed the mark, let me know and Chris and/or I will help you figure it out!
so... i bought a 48" rigid heddle. i love it(kinda). i was thinking about what i don't like and decided: I don't like the stick shuttle that long. I don't like the heddle, couldn't tell you why. but if i could i would say it's asking for a track to ride on while beating. I am weaving a plain blanket right now at full width, don't see myself doing it again. until i get to that point in my current life goal: create a completely homespun cotton muslin sheet on a homemade handloom. i did have questions for a pro. what is the dpi used for something like muslin? 50? 150? weaver's choice? :) Also,can i just backstrap weave using my RHL secured to the table?
Hello! Thank you so much for the response! I've never seen a rigid heddle loom in such a large width. That's fascinating! You could switch to a boat shuttle instead of a stick shuttle, which would give you a better experience. Because of the way boat shuttles slide along the yarns, I find it more enjoyable to use and quicker. Your goal of weaving a sheet is fabulous! And ambitious! I fully approve. I've worked very little with muslin, so I don't have a solid answer for you. But as you think about constructing a sheet, you'll want a fairly tight weave so it holds together when in use. So when determining how many ends per inch, place your muslin yarn up to a ruler and count how many ends will comfortably fit in one inch, with very little space in between. This will give you a number for your project. Something else to ponder is doing a bit of sampling. For any project that's really important, I would suggest weaving a small square off and finishing it (wash, dry, however you it to be handled). Then, you can analyze it to see if it's what you want. Is it soft enough? Is it sturdy enough? And whatever other factors are important to you. From there, you can tweak the spacing and other elements accordingly. I hope that helps! As for your last question, I'm not sure what that would look like. But, I trust that you'll find the right solution for you! Best of luck on your project!!
@@ActonCreative thanks! I did get the leclerc plastic boatshuttle.its heavy and tall near the end of project. Now I want to make one!I have so many branches sitting outside... :)
@@PeaceLoveAndRico Wow! It sounds like you're the perfect person for weaving - boldly jumping in to figure it out!! If you get into the shuttle- making business, keep us posted!!
So what should i do if after i started weaving my dpi was off an inch on the whole project? My beater pulls the ends too tight now. Because its pulling the ends sideways half an inch =/
@@ActonCreative so I have a 10in wide scarf I am weaving on the center of my 28in loom. It's my first weave with this loom but everything is centered. When I beat down the side/edge warp threads go sideways so its like my dpi was slightly off for the 10 dent I have. Short of undoing the warp threads (again) and somehow refiguring the dent configuration I'm not sure what to do. My yarn is kinda felting up already (long story.. im saving an older project.) so I would fear them tangling if I put two warps through the same dent slot. Can you think of any workaround for this to keep them from piling weird when I beat?
@@buffpanda527 Well, here are my 2 ideas to try before anything drastic happens. First of all, maybe try a lighter beat. Adding more space between your picks (rows) could help. And next, is there a way to ease up on how much your edges draw in? Maybe a lighter touch when throwing the shuttle or switching your shafts when the beater bar is forward - those things may make a difference! Because these are 2 areas you can easily control, I would start there. See if you can loosen the overall density of the fabric. And if you're able to tweak the position of the reed (right to left), feel free to move it a touch along with your fabric. I hope one of those ideas will help! Will you keep me posted? Best of luck!!
@@ActonCreative I tried loosening it back up as i went but it keeps drawing inwards more. I'll see if I can undo it and beat it lighter.. I'm only 2in deep but, again its felting already. D= And I forgot where I stopped in my pattern so I am going to have to stare at all the threads pretty hard to make sure I am undoing them correctly! Lol I did try to switch when the beater was forward and I think that made it tighter. It's weird.
@@ActonCreative so! Update! I successfully got 6in woven real quick tonight. I have to hold the beater in, switch the shafts, and then I just kinda pull the edges of what I wove straight every couple of rows. I have to roll my length for more space again so hopefully I can keep it going!
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
Love your style of explaining!!
I'm so glad you're finding it helpful! Thank you!
This is such excellent information! I think alot of newbie weavers do not know this and spend more money than necessary in buying reeds. Weaving is not an inexpensive craft to undertake for sure! Thank you again,
@@TinyWeaverLori I'm so glad this was helpful!
Awesome! I had wondered if their were modifications that could be made instead of buy more reads or different machines. I like learning ways to make what we have work for us. Thank you so much! 😊
You're very welcome! I find that weaving certainly isn't the least expensive craft. But once you have the basics, you can weave nearly all the things! Best of luck to you with your projects!!
Very helpful, thank you.
You're welcome! I'm so glad it was helpful!
Hi love your videos, so informative. I've just purchased a Louet Erica having cone from a rigid heddle where I used mostly wool. So I jumped in feet first to do tea towels on 8/2 cotton and warped about sometimes 2 in a dent sometimes 1 without any pattern thought!!!??? Lesson learnt, the weave is all over the place, gaps too wide, too close. But glad its gone wrong as its a great learning curve.
I love your enthusiasm! That willingness to try things will serve you well! Glad you're here!
Is there a video where you talk about adjusting a pattern for different widths of reeds/looms , not just the dents?
Oooh, not yet! But that's a wonderful idea!!
Hi! I have a quick question. You may have already answered this in another video that I have not yet seen. Wince very few of us can afford a complete array of reeds to match any and all projects (as you pointed out in this vid), what would you recommend as the best dpi reeds to have in a weaving arsenal? It would seem like reeds with fewer dpi would accommodate more projects, but just wondering which reeds you would recommend,at least until I can win big in the lottery! lol Thanks for any assist!
Great question! I have woven for 17 years using either a 12-dent & an 8-dent reed. And honestly, I could have easily done everything using a 12-dent.
Now, I rarely ever use really fine yarns - instead opting for lots of cotton carpet warp as my warp.
So part of the decision should be based on what yarn you like to use in your warp. If you use a tiny yarn with lots of ends per inch, it could be very helpful to have a reed with lots of dents per inch to keep those yarns better separated.
I hope that makes sense! Let me know if you have follow up questions! Thanks so much!
@@ActonCreative Thanks for that info! Really helpful. I've often wondered if I should invest in more reeds, but have so far managed not to give in. The tinniest warp I think I have ever used would be like a cotton rug warp, so I think I am good. Thanks again!😄
@@rykbowers1523 You're welcome! I'm glad I could help!
Thank you for covering this topic. I’ve been curious. Haven’t quite managed to warp my new-to-me loom and had been wondering if I needed to match my reed.
Cindy, I'm so glad it was helpful!!! Best of luck with your new loom! That's so exciting!!!
If I want to weave a silk satin weave using a 22 denier yarn on a countermarch loom (to make those shiny pillow case fabric) , what’s the best and max dpi I should have ?
@@NA-hs1xm Hi! I haven't worked with silk much, so sadly I don't have advice for you. But I always recommend starting with the place you purchased the yarn to see what details are included in the description. Best of luck to you!
hello what is the width and the length of this reed please answer
Hi! This is a 36" wide reed, that is an 8-dent.
Thanks for sharing this, Chris! I have been searching for a 7 or 8 DPI reed for my tapestry loom and I cannot find a reed that would fit in my loom. However, I found a 14 DPI reed that fits-I thought I could use this reed and sley it in a 0-1 pattern to get 7 DPI. I am pretty sure the warp threads would be a bit tight in the slots, although they will run smoothly as I am using cotton. I hardly use the beater while I weave, I mainly use a comb to beat down the weft, so I am primarily using the reed to separate the warp. Do you think this will work? Or should I continue to search for the 7 or 8 DPI. I appreciate your thoughts :) Thank you!
Pamela - hey! Chris asked me to respond to your message as I have *some* experience with tapestry weaving. But, I'm not familiar with tapestry looms that have reeds or beaters; my experience is mostly with hand-held tapestry looms.
I am familiar with tapestry weavers who use a two-shaft floor loom (usually some sort of rug loom) and that would have both a reed and beater. If that is your scenario, then I think that skipping dents on a 14 DPI reed to achieve 7 would be the perfect solution. I know there are reed charts that help advise what sort of reed threading patterns make the most even beating affect in the final cloth and the 0-1 pattern would be the obvious solution on such a chart.
I hope this helps! If I've entirely missed the mark, let me know and Chris and/or I will help you figure it out!
so... i bought a 48" rigid heddle. i love it(kinda). i was thinking about what i don't like and decided: I don't like the stick shuttle that long. I don't like the heddle, couldn't tell you why. but if i could i would say it's asking for a track to ride on while beating. I am weaving a plain blanket right now at full width, don't see myself doing it again. until i get to that point in my current life goal: create a completely homespun cotton muslin sheet on a homemade handloom.
i did have questions for a pro. what is the dpi used for something like muslin? 50? 150? weaver's choice? :) Also,can i just backstrap weave using my RHL secured to the table?
Hello! Thank you so much for the response! I've never seen a rigid heddle loom in such a large width. That's fascinating! You could switch to a boat shuttle instead of a stick shuttle, which would give you a better experience. Because of the way boat shuttles slide along the yarns, I find it more enjoyable to use and quicker.
Your goal of weaving a sheet is fabulous! And ambitious! I fully approve. I've worked very little with muslin, so I don't have a solid answer for you. But as you think about constructing a sheet, you'll want a fairly tight weave so it holds together when in use. So when determining how many ends per inch, place your muslin yarn up to a ruler and count how many ends will comfortably fit in one inch, with very little space in between. This will give you a number for your project.
Something else to ponder is doing a bit of sampling. For any project that's really important, I would suggest weaving a small square off and finishing it (wash, dry, however you it to be handled). Then, you can analyze it to see if it's what you want. Is it soft enough? Is it sturdy enough? And whatever other factors are important to you. From there, you can tweak the spacing and other elements accordingly. I hope that helps!
As for your last question, I'm not sure what that would look like. But, I trust that you'll find the right solution for you! Best of luck on your project!!
@@ActonCreative thanks! I did get the leclerc plastic boatshuttle.its heavy and tall near the end of project. Now I want to make one!I have so many branches sitting outside... :)
@@PeaceLoveAndRico Wow! It sounds like you're the perfect person for weaving - boldly jumping in to figure it out!! If you get into the shuttle- making business, keep us posted!!
So what should i do if after i started weaving my dpi was off an inch on the whole project? My beater pulls the ends too tight now. Because its pulling the ends sideways half an inch =/
Hi! Thanks for the question! Hmm... can you please clarify for me? Was the project not quite centered in the reed? Or is it a different problem?
@@ActonCreative so I have a 10in wide scarf I am weaving on the center of my 28in loom. It's my first weave with this loom but everything is centered. When I beat down the side/edge warp threads go sideways so its like my dpi was slightly off for the 10 dent I have. Short of undoing the warp threads (again) and somehow refiguring the dent configuration I'm not sure what to do. My yarn is kinda felting up already (long story.. im saving an older project.) so I would fear them tangling if I put two warps through the same dent slot. Can you think of any workaround for this to keep them from piling weird when I beat?
@@buffpanda527 Well, here are my 2 ideas to try before anything drastic happens. First of all, maybe try a lighter beat. Adding more space between your picks (rows) could help.
And next, is there a way to ease up on how much your edges draw in? Maybe a lighter touch when throwing the shuttle or switching your shafts when the beater bar is forward - those things may make a difference!
Because these are 2 areas you can easily control, I would start there. See if you can loosen the overall density of the fabric. And if you're able to tweak the position of the reed (right to left), feel free to move it a touch along with your fabric.
I hope one of those ideas will help! Will you keep me posted? Best of luck!!
@@ActonCreative I tried loosening it back up as i went but it keeps drawing inwards more. I'll see if I can undo it and beat it lighter.. I'm only 2in deep but, again its felting already. D= And I forgot where I stopped in my pattern so I am going to have to stare at all the threads pretty hard to make sure I am undoing them correctly! Lol I did try to switch when the beater was forward and I think that made it tighter. It's weird.
@@ActonCreative so! Update! I successfully got 6in woven real quick tonight. I have to hold the beater in, switch the shafts, and then I just kinda pull the edges of what I wove straight every couple of rows. I have to roll my length for more space again so hopefully I can keep it going!