🔥 Who Was ON FIRE In Innsbruck? 🔥 | Climbing Daily, Ep 2426
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- Опубликовано: 7 янв 2025
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On todays episode Teresa is BACK from her recent trip to Innsbruck, and we go through the results and main talking points from the different rounds of competitions in that took place last week ....
Lots to discuss, including a controversial new rule that made for a nail-biting finish to the lead climbing final between Ai Mori and Janja Garnbret
Comp Footage © @sportclimbing
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EDIT: Correction to title, its not a new rule, apologies for the confusion, thanks to those of you for pointing it out 🙏
All the athletes for sure know that the rule is countback and not time though. Janja wouldn't have spent so long resting near the top if she knew time were important. That's just being a strategic competitor.
Where is the controversy? Ai has won against Janja based on countback before, the athletes know that the previous rounds are very important. Janja climbed best in qualis, it secured her the win - deserved.
I think countback to semis make sense but to qualifying round is a bit too far?
I agree, it is very fair like this,
each person has a style of climbing
some fast some slow
some good some bad
and having time constraints changes the methods of climbing of each climber. I am sure if it was based on time, janja would be climbing much differently
@@rongma9466 Why would it be too far? Qualis and Semis were on the Same day, measures the athletes ablities just as well
@@arrrriba I just don't know if athletes climb the qualifying round being awared that their qualis performance would matter for the podium. This would be a good example for future comps that every round they have to fight hard.
@@rongma9466 Of course they are aware of this, this has happened many many times. They climb every round as hard as they can, they know exactly how likely countback is in lead.
I like the rule change, lead climbing is not meant to be a race.
Not a new rule.
I love your content, but there are several errors in the lead discussion. First, the countback was to qualifications, not semis. Second, the countback rule is not new. If you look at the IFSC rule book in 2018, the rules already stated that if competitors tied in a round, then the results from the prior round will be used to break the tie. Only when competitors are tied in every round does time matter. There are enough bad faith sentiment out there about the IFSC conspiring to let Janja win against Ai that we don't need this misinformation... Janja also KNEW this is the rule - that was likely why she took her time at the top.
Whether people agree with this rule is personal opinion, but it makes more sense to me that the climber who does better overall in that event (e.g., Janja climbing one more hold higher in quali than Ai in one of the routes) should have won.
It looks like a clickbait to me, because if you really follow competition sport climbing ( and I guess people at EpicTV do ) than you are also familiar with the rules. Obviously they needed to ramble about well-known topic just to make the show a little bit longer.😥
I agree that the climber who does better overall in the event wins, but maybe if that is the case, we should evaluate all the routes, as boulder competition does, not just a count back.
@@IAN_Miranteidk what you mean. They tie on every single route except for that one route in quali where Janja was better. The decision was made on all the routes - that’s what countback is.
I mean in Bern Ai won Lead because of the same reason. Because of count back. Now that is Janja is an issue??
I disagree saying that the coverage was excellent. Camera shots were in general poor. Focusing on some heel in clear moments where we wanted to see a different shot. Having a drone doesn't add if basics are not there.
Agreed. When he said that the coverage was good I thought maybe he didn't actually watch the footage. It was either close ups of hands or feet or close ups of the athlete that cut off the hands and feet.
There was no rule change! The rule was always countback to previous rounds. Only when tied in all rounds time is taken into account.
Wow. "It would be better if it came down to time" is an opinion that I don't think most people who have ever competed agrees with unless we are talking about speed climbing. The most controversial rulings regarding a win in lead climbing have always been the ones where a competitor wins due to time and these wins were ruled so because there was a tie in the count back. Lead climbing is about how difficult the routes are, not who is the fastest.
The camerawork for janja's top on boulder 4 was atrocious. Every time I see a clip of it, I cringe. They spend too much time zoomed in on feet and need to learn to zoom out!
Also, isn't countback an old rule at this point? It makes sense to me and I didn't realize it was controversial. I disagree about going off of time. Lead climbing isn't speed climbing and there are no style points.
I hate those zoom in too
Just show me the whole body movement and positions
Zooming in while replay is more appropriate
i agree that time should not be super important that's not what climbing is about. speed climbers have their own event. IMO height attempts countback and finally as last metric time should count
Janja climbed according to the current rules - she knew that she'd win if she tops, regardless of time (also clearly seen by the long rest she took, while looking at time). I don't think your characterisation of Ai climbing better is very fair in this case. If the rule was still about time, then Janja would definitely have climbed the route differently.
👋👋👋👍👍👍
Not a new rule and it’s not a controversial. This has been the rule for as long as I know.
Do your research.
It was only for the Tokyo Olympic combined format, that time was the primary tie breaker.
I disagree regarding the excellent coverage. In almost every crucial moment, the camera was zooming in on feet while the action was somewhere else. This happened throughout most of the last comps and it's very frustrating. They definitely need to hire people who know what's important in the sport.
It's been countback for years?
I was a little bummed RUclips took down both Lead videos when they were posted. I think if you watched it LIVE, you could watch it. Luckily, the videos were put up the next day, I guess the strike was disputed. Amazing comp! 👍🏽
Music copyright issues.
The camera work might be okay, but the directing wasn’t a “step up”. The OQS was so much better, the right shots at the right time. So credits where credits are due (with the OQS).
Still appreciate the broadcasting ❤
OQS also did excellent highlights, raw sends, no funky music or snippets of commentary
Camera work basically missing Janja's top of W4 in the boulder final was awful
9b counter section is shorter than my 10mm hangs
Why do you folks attempt to make a news show when you clearly do no research?
Janjas win was well deserved in Innsbruck. The same is going for Ai in Bern and Edinburgh, when she won on count back.
Following toxic traits spreading by toxic fans is lame.
Where did toxic come into it? 🧐
The Wednesday New Show is the best way to start the day. Thanks for this! 🙂
Clickbait title
If you were trolling for comments by suggesting a controversy in the women's lead count back you were successful.
Ai had the easier lead, but if she won on time, then she'd had to do post-victory interviews. So at the end of the day, its a win in her book too.
I agree. Ai Mori made the route look easier than Janja Garnbret. Janja was really struggling towards the end of the route.
At the same time Ai won Edinburgh 2022 because of the time ruling change. You win some, you lose some.
struggling isnt the right word... she was just not willing to make a mistake, so she took her time
@@Amatsuichi Nah, I didn't see it that way. Janja was struggling near the end and definitely needed to rest enough to make sure she could complete the route. A route in which she almost timed-out, when normally she is one of the fastest climbers on the circuit.
@@seeeeeb9300 Not sure what your point has to do with my observation?
@@Jshield579 Janja isn't a particularly fast climber, she has timed out before. She often takes her time esp when she knows that she can't make a mistake
i felt, if the climb time were 1 minute longer(mind you, one minute in lead climbing is ALOT), then this new semi-final score system is fairer.
if they were given with the current time(where they have to struggle between endurance vs resting and risk not finishing), then wins according to time to top is better.
there are none had me =Ddddddd:Ddddd
Countback to semis makes it so that the spectacle/drama happens during semis instead of in the final. On the other hand, the 6 minute time limit feels super arbitrary. They should do a count forward instead of a countback so there's no time limit but the fastest athlete does win.