The most important thing to know about any unimogs before the mdoels from the 70's, like the 1300l: They did no rollover tests. And the cabs are weak. They have no roll over protection. If your tyre blows out and you flip at highway speeds, you likely die. If you fall down a slope sideways, i you most likely die. If you flip over on you side, just standing still: at least your cab is trash. Build a good rollover protection bar. It's a important live insurance when really planning to roadtrip this thing.
I didn't have a rollover cage in the plan. Now I definitely do. One day when we get to the episode where I weld that up, know that your advice pushed me to do that!
You should always consider when and whatfor the 404 was created. When french amry officers in the early 1950th saw the Unimog 401/411 driving around in the southern German scenery they went to the makers and told them how fanstic the vehicle was. But they were looking for a vehicle that was also fully all terrain capable and that should transport 10 soldiers. That was the beginning of the Unimog 'S' project. If you have any questions; I'm one of very little experts on this vehicle. I myself have a Unimog 404.111 from 1955 - one form the first series of 1204 pieces with the smaller wheel-base of 2600mm. A vehicle that can crank 45° whithout falling on its side doesn't need a cage. Historic vehicles shoun't be used like modern rock-climbers. If you don't understand this, you are in the wrong movie.
@@rainerehrlich4956 people consider it a good idea to put led into everything back then. Know we know better. Vehicle safety wasn't a priority back then and also not as far developed. And yes the development has other priorities. It needed to be compact to fit into planes and cheap. Both more important than safety and things that would be hindered by a rollbar. Whilst the 404 can drive at that angle, it's only in ideal conditions. If something happens, it also tips. Some fatal accidents happen in off-road. Especially when they work in i.e. forestry. Hence why Mercedes offered rollbars for the predecessors 401 and 411, aswell as for the 406 and 421 Cabrios. And the companies modifying them often added full cages too. And they share the same construction principles as the 404. But the most accidents happen on the road. When driving at speed. If something happens, like a tire blows out, or one line in the single circuit brake failes, it can end badly. Or if someone simply crashes into you. Have you ever looked up how these things look after crashes? If you drive them a lot, its cheap insurance to add one. Just because they were okay with it back then is no reason to risk your life because of such a simple thing. And something else. You might be one of few Unimog 404 experts from wherever you are. But a vehicle so widespread, in so many armies. How many people have driven it there, serviced and repaired it? Heck, some of the engineers developing it or caring for it during its producing run are still alive. What about all those people working in Unimog dealerships? Some fire departments here in Germany are just about phasing out their last 404s from active duty. They are not something rare. When i.e. the German military phased them out, they did in such great numbers, that the prices for them were so low, because the market was saturated. So many people bought them. Many took them around the world, some use them for trials sport. Some modified them. Others just keep them as they are. There is even a Museum where people dedicated their time to these vehicles. And that's just in Germany. France also has seems it's fair share of 404s and this People knowing a lot about them.
Good base, the rust in the important places is marginal, the small damage to the driver's cab is relatively easy to repair. As far as changing the engine is concerned, you can of course use a diesel, but you should think twice about it because the conversion is much more difficult than you think and very, very expensive. Now there is an M180 petrol engine with 80-82 hp, which has a torque of 14.6 kp·m (143 N·m) at 3200 rpm. Maximum speed with the engine is around 95 km/h or about 59 mph. In Africa they use kilometers per hour, so you should keep the speedometer if you want to go there and only put MPH markings so that you know how fast you are going in the USA. Instead of converting to diesel, there are several ways to either upgrade this engine or use a different petrol engine. THAT saves a lot of money and work depending on the variant. M180 is the 2.2 / 2.3 liter engine that is installed in your 404. Probably one of the models M180.926 to ...928 or 942/943 or 952/953. All of these engines have 80 - 82 hp due to the low compression cylinder head. If you now find an M180.954 engine - it was available in cars with the small tail fin (models 110.010 and 110.011) and later in the so-called /8 (Model numbers 114.015, 114.017, 114.615 and 114.617, also called W114) - then you have an engine that produces 120 hp with the car carburetor system (2 x Type Zenith 35/40 INAT). The cylinder head attached to your existing engine provides around 10 - 15 hp extra, if you continue to use the existing military carburetor. The M130 is basically the same engine block as the M180, just with larger cylinder bores, resulting in a displacement of 2.8 l. The M130 (as M130.925 V) was also installed in the Unimog between 1971 and 1980 and had 110 hp (81 kW) at 4800 rpm and a torque of 19 kp·m (186 N·m) at 3200 rpm. The top speed was hardly higher, it was 100 km/h or 62 mph. The car version (M130.923 V) thow is different and has more Power (96 kW (130HP at 5000 rpm - 216 Nm (22 kp-m) at 3200 rpm) and is called M 130.923. More speed is also possible, it just depends on the engine power. But now to the possible modifications to your engine/engine replacement if it remains a petrol engine. 1st option: Put the cylinder head from the M180.954 engine on, the intake and exhaust tract remain unchanged. Effort: Get the cylinder head and have it overhauled. New cylinder head gasket set. One day's work, if necessary make an adapter for the cooling water connection. Result: 90 - 95 HP 2nd variant: Like 1, but also install the car's 2-carburettor system. The car's intake and exhaust tract are required for this, the Y-pipe must be changed. Some sheet metal work on the right inner hood is necessary and you have to build the air collector yourself. Result: 120 HP 3rd variant Find M130.920 (was installed in the S-Class W108 built in 1968 - 72 and in the first /8 W114). Change the oil pan of the 404, change the engine's oil pump and the flywheel of the 404. Result: approx. 120hp and 50nm more torque 4th variant As before, but with the car carburettor as in variant 2 Result: 140hp 5th variant Install M110 engine (the block is identical to M180/M130, but with double cam cylinder head). All work as before, plus completely rebuild the intake tract yourself, some sheet metal work on the driver's cab. Result: depending on the variant (carburettor/injector) 140 - 185hp But this variant is also the most expensive and the most work. And with a maximum of 140hp, it should also be the limit. Big advantage of the injection version, consumption drops by a little more than a gallon/100 km. Converted to 100 miles, you save about 1.6 gallons, if I've calculated correctly. In the end, it's not worth it with the M110 engine because the transmission and drive train are then overwhelmed, even if you limit it to 140 hp. Basically, problems with the drive train start at around 125 hp, and it then has to be reinforced. For longer journeys, a transmission oil cooler should be installed in the basic version. Speaking of transmissions, it's worth equipping the transmission with a different clutch. There's a company in California that offers a conversion kit that is better suited to the respective additional power (I have nothing to do with the company, it's just a tip): expedition-imports.com/unimog-404-clutch-conversion-kit-404clconv/ They have lots of other stuff and spare parts for the 404. Certainly an address that might be able to help with one thing or another. As for the case. My opinion? Get rid of it. Better to get a new case made of sandwich panels. Much lighter, better insulated and you can determine the dimensions. It is also possible to build an alcove above the driver's cab. More modern windows, easier installation of everything you want. AND you don't need to convert anything to have a reasonable interior height. The bottom line is that a new box body will actually be cheaper than converting the old one. You can even make a box body with a rocker frame or spring suspension, which would be much better (but costs money). Greetz Dan
@@TheExpenditionForge I appreciate very much that you are so enthusiastic. Last Friday and weekend I removed the mud wings and removed the rust. After that I made a 2 layer sealing with rust protection and varnish spraying. Now it looks very nice again. To fix it after that I needed special rivets. So you will always have something to do when having such an outstanding vehicle. I wish you staying power for your long lasting project.
Few things about this model of unimog. First The gear box, you have to go in numerical order, from 1->2 before you can shift to 3&4(1&2 road gears) same with 5th and 6th. Shifting like so will open the gates in the gearbox allowing the horizontal movement of the gear lever. Also in between is the PTO position which often kind of locks the horizontal movement between the 1-2 and 3-4 gears, hence why you struggled to go between the two. Also if you want to lock the diff's you'll have to hold the lever up, otherwise it'll jsut bounce back to regular 4wd. These model of unimog did not come with seatbelts as it was built beofre the law required them. The lever you tought was the PTO is actually a hand throttle. The PTO lever is the lever WOULD, be between your main gear shifter, and the handbrake, but seems like you dont have that at all. But your gearbox probably still has the same pattern, just not the lever to actuate the PTO.
Shifting from the 1-2 row to the 3-4 row is always hard on these Unimogs, because you are actually just shifting from low to high range and stay in the same main gears. Additionally there is an interlock, that makes you go into third before the 5/6th are unlocked. Once they are unlocked you can move freely from 3-6 with skipping gears etc. For mor 3rd just works best with simply pushing the lever forward without guiding it left of right. You technically don't really need the first two gears. Except for heavy load, crawling or reverse. Another thing: technically the lever for the diff locks should stay in the on position by itself.
Yes, the diff lock lever does stay in position by itself, I just didn't use it here in this video. That video was the first time I drove it, so I've gotten a little more used to rowing through the gears. My problem wasn't understanding any of this, but rather being locked out of certain gears because I would forget that reverse is only compatible with 1st and 2nd. So I would have to jump over from 2nd to 3rd to go forward and then struggle to get into reverse, forgetting that reverse doesn't work with 3rd. Anyway, it's actually pretty fun to drive once you get the hang of the weird nature of its shifting and what you're allowed to do in what gear!
Interesting! I personally don't have any use for the PTO, so that's fine. I have a pretty good feel for the shifter now and it's actually pretty fun to drive!
I bought a 67 404 radio truck. I always wanted one, but was disappointed with the top speed. Unfortunately i realized parts were expensive and rare as well as the fact that the transmission is its weak link with brass bushing instead of roller bearings ect. I restored it and sold it for a huge profit rather than hang on to it and something fail.
As an owner of "soviet Unimog" (gaz-66) I would vote for Cummins 5.9, but as an Unimog lover I would consider it from different perspective. By heavy Cummins you will kill off-road capabilities of this beauty simply because engine will be sooo much heavier. It'll become unbalanced and useless in mud and sand. So this surely will trigger suspension change, bigger and wider wheels, etc. Heavier and bigger might compromise durability of chassis. I would consider MB diesel in-line 6 (maybe on turbo) and gearbox/transmission rebuild with updated ratios. Do not know if its even possible, but assume such kits do exist, they must to... I joined this channel because of Mog, so I would love to see it as a main vehicle ;)
@prostoJarik That is a very cool machine! I don't think I've ever seen a GAZ-66 in person but I'd like to. I have made my decision on which direction I am going with the unimog engine and I'll let you know very soon! Once my diesel Land Cruiser is put back together and out of the way the mog will be in the shop and it will certainly be the main event, so expect more unimog!
The truck has so much potential. I know it's in the best hands. You deserve it. On your African tour plan, you are most welcomed, especially in Kenya. Best of luck buddy.
If you can get a good engine swap and some noise dampening with AC, you can then go anywhere you like period. As long as you don't pack the box too heavy, as it's already heavy you should have no issues.
Also definitely watch the following two episodes on 404 axles in case you haven't already...both are Y.T, Channels ...Ghoulie Garage & Dirt Lifestyle Ghoulie Garage...Machining DirtLifestyles unimog 404 pinions and hub conversions! Dirt Lifestyle....Ultimate Suzuki Samurai Buggy Build! Episode 1 Unimog Axles, Wheels And Tires.
I have a 6x6 Pinzgauer ambulance I turned into a camper. My problem with the Unimog was my leg doesn't fir between the steering wheel and the peddle. Im a bit taller than you. It is a great truck. I still may get one one day, just need to modify the steering wheel a bit.
I have been along the same lines of thinking in going for a very capable amd light weight/reasonably small unimog. I do own a 435, and its heavy and big and useable for areas where there is a lot of space only, so not useable for some of the tracks I want to drive. Unimog 404 parts are cheap here in Germany, with certain exceptions. Mostly old stocks though. Ebay and Kleinanzeigen offers tons of parts. NOS axels below 1k e.g.. So in principle a cost effective decision, and great you bought one! There also are the 404s that have the big driver cab from the 406/416, and these use the bigger engine with 2.8l M130 and about 110 HP and come with power steering. Mileage still bad. But was standard. Flywheel needs some changes. Option of diesel conversion would call for a 617A. The 617 is a mess, had that in a Mercedes G, underpowered, not worth the effort. You can probably only fit a 5 cylinder diesel engine. When you do that, since the injection pump sits on the wrong side, there need to be changes to the engine cover. You may have to move the pedals to the left. Or you find a so called Hass-Glocke (bell case) that tilts the engine a bit for that reason. No longer in production, will be a stretch to find one. Changing the complete setup with a non-Mercedes engine is a mess. Since the gearbox is also used to transfer the rear axle forces to the frame switching the gearbox is not really an option (total supspension design and replacement). No longer an Unimog. Dont do it. So if you opt for the 120HP gas engine, make sure you use the offroad carburators. You may be able to fit a newer gearbox UG 2/27 or 2/30, but not sure about that. If you want to keep the original gearbox, you should add an oli cooler. I btw will probably rather end up with a 416 with fast axles and 120 series HP, can be around 3 tons empty / no bed and has a powerfull 6 cylinder diesel engine with about 6l that could also be equipped with a turbocharger.
I own an Iveco army truck, and it is underpowered for highway driving compared to a domestic truck. It's abable to pull 98 kph, which is all you need to get to Alaska. The tires are not rated for higher speeds anyway.
Swings and roundabouts when it comes to an engine swap. If you can find a straight fit diesel alternative, such as the Mercedes option you're thinking about not only will you save yourself a whole load of pain in terms of getting it to fit, you'll also have the advantage of probably being able source spares more easily in the more obscure parts of the world as old Mercedes are common over most of the globe. Would a more modern Cummins engine offer a similar utility? The main issue it that of a higher cruising speed, so maybe finding out what others have done to solve this problem with their Unimog 404 conversions. Weight would also be a bit of a concern, as Africa has many roads where anything heavy is going to be far more difficult to pull out of muddy conditions etc.
@ 16:40: Your "moaning" about the position of the engine is cute... imagine... I have burn scars on my right leg from years of driving a MAN F7-F8, just from the gear lever that protrudes from the engine tunnel... because some stupid engineer thought the gear stick should be mounted near the turbo. the first thing to fly out of the truck is the insulation, during a repair by a workshop because it is in the way, and the "RED-GLOWING" heat from the turbo goes straight into the small, harmless gear lever... LOL!!! ;)
@axelk4921 A true fellow enthusiast! I think I am going to fabricate some more permanent solution to really block off the engine from the cab rather than the flimsy crooked panels from the factory. Of course, we have a long way to go before we get to that. I'm glad to hear that other people will suffer with engineering flaws and discomfort in order to have an interesting 4x4. I salute you sir 🫡
The most important thing to know about any unimogs before the mdoels from the 70's, like the 1300l: They did no rollover tests. And the cabs are weak. They have no roll over protection. If your tyre blows out and you flip at highway speeds, you likely die. If you fall down a slope sideways, i you most likely die.
If you flip over on you side, just standing still: at least your cab is trash.
Build a good rollover protection bar. It's a important live insurance when really planning to roadtrip this thing.
I didn't have a rollover cage in the plan. Now I definitely do. One day when we get to the episode where I weld that up, know that your advice pushed me to do that!
You should always consider when and whatfor the 404 was created. When french amry officers in the early 1950th saw the Unimog 401/411 driving around in the southern German scenery they went to the makers and told them how fanstic the vehicle was. But they were looking for a vehicle that was also fully all terrain capable and that should transport 10 soldiers. That was the beginning of the Unimog 'S' project.
If you have any questions; I'm one of very little experts on this vehicle. I myself have a Unimog 404.111 from 1955 - one form the first series of 1204 pieces with the smaller wheel-base of 2600mm. A vehicle that can crank 45° whithout falling on its side doesn't need a cage. Historic vehicles shoun't be used like modern rock-climbers. If you don't understand this, you are in the wrong movie.
@@rainerehrlich4956 people consider it a good idea to put led into everything back then. Know we know better.
Vehicle safety wasn't a priority back then and also not as far developed. And yes the development has other priorities. It needed to be compact to fit into planes and cheap. Both more important than safety and things that would be hindered by a rollbar.
Whilst the 404 can drive at that angle, it's only in ideal conditions. If something happens, it also tips. Some fatal accidents happen in off-road. Especially when they work in i.e. forestry. Hence why Mercedes offered rollbars for the predecessors 401 and 411, aswell as for the 406 and 421 Cabrios. And the companies modifying them often added full cages too. And they share the same construction principles as the 404.
But the most accidents happen on the road. When driving at speed. If something happens, like a tire blows out, or one line in the single circuit brake failes, it can end badly. Or if someone simply crashes into you. Have you ever looked up how these things look after crashes?
If you drive them a lot, its cheap insurance to add one. Just because they were okay with it back then is no reason to risk your life because of such a simple thing.
And something else. You might be one of few Unimog 404 experts from wherever you are. But a vehicle so widespread, in so many armies. How many people have driven it there, serviced and repaired it? Heck, some of the engineers developing it or caring for it during its producing run are still alive. What about all those people working in Unimog dealerships?
Some fire departments here in Germany are just about phasing out their last 404s from active duty. They are not something rare.
When i.e. the German military phased them out, they did in such great numbers, that the prices for them were so low, because the market was saturated. So many people bought them. Many took them around the world, some use them for trials sport. Some modified them. Others just keep them as they are. There is even a Museum where people dedicated their time to these vehicles. And that's just in Germany. France also has seems it's fair share of 404s and this People knowing a lot about them.
Good base, the rust in the important places is marginal, the small damage to the driver's cab is relatively easy to repair.
As far as changing the engine is concerned, you can of course use a diesel, but you should think twice about it because the conversion is much more difficult than you think and very, very expensive.
Now there is an M180 petrol engine with 80-82 hp, which has a torque of 14.6 kp·m (143 N·m) at 3200 rpm. Maximum speed with the engine is around 95 km/h or about 59 mph.
In Africa they use kilometers per hour, so you should keep the speedometer if you want to go there and only put MPH markings so that you know how fast you are going in the USA.
Instead of converting to diesel, there are several ways to either upgrade this engine or use a different petrol engine. THAT saves a lot of money and work depending on the variant.
M180 is the 2.2 / 2.3 liter engine that is installed in your 404. Probably one of the models M180.926 to ...928 or 942/943 or 952/953. All of these engines have 80 - 82 hp due to the low compression cylinder head.
If you now find an M180.954 engine - it was available in cars with the small tail fin (models 110.010 and 110.011) and later in the so-called /8 (Model numbers 114.015, 114.017, 114.615 and 114.617, also called W114) - then you have an engine that produces 120 hp with the car carburetor system (2 x Type Zenith 35/40 INAT). The cylinder head attached to your existing engine provides around 10 - 15 hp extra, if you continue to use the existing military carburetor.
The M130 is basically the same engine block as the M180, just with larger cylinder bores, resulting in a displacement of 2.8 l.
The M130 (as M130.925 V) was also installed in the Unimog between 1971 and 1980 and had 110 hp (81 kW) at 4800 rpm and a torque of 19 kp·m (186 N·m) at 3200 rpm. The top speed was hardly higher, it was 100 km/h or 62 mph.
The car version (M130.923 V) thow is different and has more Power (96 kW (130HP at 5000 rpm - 216 Nm (22 kp-m) at 3200 rpm) and is called M 130.923.
More speed is also possible, it just depends on the engine power.
But now to the possible modifications to your engine/engine replacement if it remains a petrol engine.
1st option:
Put the cylinder head from the M180.954 engine on, the intake and exhaust tract remain unchanged.
Effort: Get the cylinder head and have it overhauled. New cylinder head gasket set. One day's work, if necessary make an adapter for the cooling water connection. Result: 90 - 95 HP
2nd variant:
Like 1, but also install the car's 2-carburettor system.
The car's intake and exhaust tract are required for this, the Y-pipe must be changed. Some sheet metal work on the right inner hood is necessary and you have to build the air collector yourself. Result: 120 HP
3rd variant
Find M130.920 (was installed in the S-Class W108 built in 1968 - 72 and in the first /8 W114). Change the oil pan of the 404, change the engine's oil pump and the flywheel of the 404. Result: approx. 120hp and 50nm more torque
4th variant
As before, but with the car carburettor as in variant 2
Result: 140hp
5th variant
Install M110 engine (the block is identical to M180/M130, but with double cam cylinder head). All work as before, plus completely rebuild the intake tract yourself, some sheet metal work on the driver's cab. Result: depending on the variant (carburettor/injector) 140 - 185hp
But this variant is also the most expensive and the most work. And with a maximum of 140hp, it should also be the limit. Big advantage of the injection version, consumption drops by a little more than a gallon/100 km. Converted to 100 miles, you save about 1.6 gallons, if I've calculated correctly.
In the end, it's not worth it with the M110 engine because the transmission and drive train are then overwhelmed, even if you limit it to 140 hp. Basically, problems with the drive train start at around 125 hp, and it then has to be reinforced. For longer journeys, a transmission oil cooler should be installed in the basic version.
Speaking of transmissions, it's worth equipping the transmission with a different clutch. There's a company in California that offers a conversion kit that is better suited to the respective additional power (I have nothing to do with the company, it's just a tip):
expedition-imports.com/unimog-404-clutch-conversion-kit-404clconv/
They have lots of other stuff and spare parts for the 404. Certainly an address that might be able to help with one thing or another.
As for the case. My opinion? Get rid of it. Better to get a new case made of sandwich panels. Much lighter, better insulated and you can determine the dimensions. It is also possible to build an alcove above the driver's cab. More modern windows, easier installation of everything you want. AND you don't need to convert anything to have a reasonable interior height. The bottom line is that a new box body will actually be cheaper than converting the old one.
You can even make a box body with a rocker frame or spring suspension, which would be much better (but costs money).
Greetz
Dan
Just as a supplement, where you can find such engines:
List is divided into engine code, displacement in cm³, hp, kW, car model, manufacturing code and construction period.
M 130 inline 6 cylinder ohc petrol engine, construction years 1968-76 as carburetor models:
130.920 - 2778 - 140 - 103 - 280S - W108 - 1968-72
130.923 - 2778 - 130 - 95 - 250,250C - W114 - 1969-76
M 180 inline 6 cylinder. ohc- Otto engine built 1965-76
180.947/50 - 2181 - 120 - 88 - 230S - 111.010 - 07.1965-01-1968
180.950 - 2181 - 120 - 88 - 230 - 111.011 - 07.1966-09-1968
180.954 - 2292 - 120 - 88 - 230.6 - 114.015 - 01.1968-11-1976
Thank you! I will check out that clutch kit for sure!
What a great buy mate very unique beast not many left that age.. big up from England
@@MsRichycon Thank you! I knew I had to jump on it when I saw it for sale!
I am looking forward to watching your progress in making this vehicle "great again". Mine is a 404.111 from 1955.
I'm glad you're interested! I can't wait to pull the cab off and get started!
@@TheExpenditionForge I appreciate very much that you are so enthusiastic. Last Friday and weekend I removed the mud wings and removed the rust. After that I made a 2 layer sealing with rust protection and varnish spraying. Now it looks very nice again. To fix it after that I needed special rivets. So you will always have something to do when having such an outstanding vehicle. I wish you staying power for your long lasting project.
Few things about this model of unimog.
First The gear box, you have to go in numerical order, from 1->2 before you can shift to 3&4(1&2 road gears) same with 5th and 6th. Shifting like so will open the gates in the gearbox allowing the horizontal movement of the gear lever.
Also in between is the PTO position which often kind of locks the horizontal movement between the 1-2 and 3-4 gears, hence why you struggled to go between the two.
Also if you want to lock the diff's you'll have to hold the lever up, otherwise it'll jsut bounce back to regular 4wd.
These model of unimog did not come with seatbelts as it was built beofre the law required them.
The lever you tought was the PTO is actually a hand throttle.
The PTO lever is the lever WOULD, be between your main gear shifter, and the handbrake, but seems like you dont have that at all. But your gearbox probably still has the same pattern, just not the lever to actuate the PTO.
Shifting from the 1-2 row to the 3-4 row is always hard on these Unimogs, because you are actually just shifting from low to high range and stay in the same main gears.
Additionally there is an interlock, that makes you go into third before the 5/6th are unlocked. Once they are unlocked you can move freely from 3-6 with skipping gears etc. For mor 3rd just works best with simply pushing the lever forward without guiding it left of right. You technically don't really need the first two gears. Except for heavy load, crawling or reverse.
Another thing: technically the lever for the diff locks should stay in the on position by itself.
Yes, the diff lock lever does stay in position by itself, I just didn't use it here in this video. That video was the first time I drove it, so I've gotten a little more used to rowing through the gears. My problem wasn't understanding any of this, but rather being locked out of certain gears because I would forget that reverse is only compatible with 1st and 2nd. So I would have to jump over from 2nd to 3rd to go forward and then struggle to get into reverse, forgetting that reverse doesn't work with 3rd. Anyway, it's actually pretty fun to drive once you get the hang of the weird nature of its shifting and what you're allowed to do in what gear!
Interesting! I personally don't have any use for the PTO, so that's fine. I have a pretty good feel for the shifter now and it's actually pretty fun to drive!
I bought a 67 404 radio truck. I always wanted one, but was disappointed with the top speed. Unfortunately i realized parts were expensive and rare as well as the fact that the transmission is its weak link with brass bushing instead of roller bearings ect. I restored it and sold it for a huge profit rather than hang on to it and something fail.
@Jonesec1 It is certainly slow! I think a drivetrain swap is in order for this 404 mog
As an owner of "soviet Unimog" (gaz-66) I would vote for Cummins 5.9, but as an Unimog lover I would consider it from different perspective. By heavy Cummins you will kill off-road capabilities of this beauty simply because engine will be sooo much heavier. It'll become unbalanced and useless in mud and sand. So this surely will trigger suspension change, bigger and wider wheels, etc. Heavier and bigger might compromise durability of chassis. I would consider MB diesel in-line 6 (maybe on turbo) and gearbox/transmission rebuild with updated ratios. Do not know if its even possible, but assume such kits do exist, they must to... I joined this channel because of Mog, so I would love to see it as a main vehicle ;)
@prostoJarik That is a very cool machine! I don't think I've ever seen a GAZ-66 in person but I'd like to. I have made my decision on which direction I am going with the unimog engine and I'll let you know very soon! Once my diesel Land Cruiser is put back together and out of the way the mog will be in the shop and it will certainly be the main event, so expect more unimog!
The truck has so much potential.
I know it's in the best hands. You deserve it.
On your African tour plan, you are most welcomed, especially in Kenya.
Best of luck buddy.
@@nomanbond9357 Thank you! We will surely be there someday soon!
If you can get a good engine swap and some noise dampening with AC, you can then go anywhere you like period. As long as you don't pack the box too heavy, as it's already heavy you should have no issues.
Yes! I am excited for the chopping and fabricating parts to make the cab how I want it!
Hell yes!
I'm excited for it!
Also definitely watch the following two episodes on 404 axles in case you haven't already...both are Y.T, Channels ...Ghoulie Garage & Dirt Lifestyle
Ghoulie Garage...Machining DirtLifestyles unimog 404 pinions and hub conversions!
Dirt Lifestyle....Ultimate Suzuki Samurai Buggy Build! Episode 1 Unimog Axles, Wheels And Tires.
@stanleystewart925 Oh yes Dirt Lifestyle is my favorite channel! Nate is an absolute wizard in the shop
I have a 6x6 Pinzgauer ambulance I turned into a camper. My problem with the Unimog was my leg doesn't fir between the steering wheel and the peddle. Im a bit taller than you. It is a great truck. I still may get one one day, just need to modify the steering wheel a bit.
I could see that being a problem! The Pinzgauer is an awesome vehicle too! Don't see many of those around
I have been along the same lines of thinking in going for a very capable amd light weight/reasonably small unimog. I do own a 435, and its heavy and big and useable for areas where there is a lot of space only, so not useable for some of the tracks I want to drive. Unimog 404 parts are cheap here in Germany, with certain exceptions. Mostly old stocks though. Ebay and Kleinanzeigen offers tons of parts. NOS axels below 1k e.g.. So in principle a cost effective decision, and great you bought one!
There also are the 404s that have the big driver cab from the 406/416, and these use the bigger engine with 2.8l M130 and about 110 HP and come with power steering. Mileage still bad. But was standard. Flywheel needs some changes.
Option of diesel conversion would call for a 617A. The 617 is a mess, had that in a Mercedes G, underpowered, not worth the effort. You can probably only fit a 5 cylinder diesel engine. When you do that, since the injection pump sits on the wrong side, there need to be changes to the engine cover. You may have to move the pedals to the left. Or you find a so called Hass-Glocke (bell case) that tilts the engine a bit for that reason. No longer in production, will be a stretch to find one.
Changing the complete setup with a non-Mercedes engine is a mess. Since the gearbox is also used to transfer the rear axle forces to the frame switching the gearbox is not really an option (total supspension design and replacement). No longer an Unimog. Dont do it. So if you opt for the 120HP gas engine, make sure you use the offroad carburators. You may be able to fit a newer gearbox UG 2/27 or 2/30, but not sure about that. If you want to keep the original gearbox, you should add an oli cooler.
I btw will probably rather end up with a 416 with fast axles and 120 series HP, can be around 3 tons empty / no bed and has a powerfull 6 cylinder diesel engine with about 6l that could also be equipped with a turbocharger.
Nice! Next video I'll give the update on the direction I'm going with the mog!
I own an Iveco army truck, and it is underpowered for highway driving compared to a domestic truck. It's abable to pull 98 kph, which is all you need to get to Alaska. The tires are not rated for higher speeds anyway.
@@marcfournier823 I love those trucks! Alaska is on my list as well
Keep it Benz powered. OM606 is widely available and can reliably make 300hp with a mechanical fuel pump and a bigger turbo...
That's a good point! I'll let you know what direction we are going soon!
you need OM 605 or OM 606 diesel, you can find parts in EU and Africa if you need.
@@TheJssmagi Fantastic point! I don't think I would find 6BT parts in Africa
Swings and roundabouts when it comes to an engine swap. If you can find a straight fit diesel alternative, such as the Mercedes option you're thinking about not only will you save yourself a whole load of pain in terms of getting it to fit, you'll also have the advantage of probably being able source spares more easily in the more obscure parts of the world as old Mercedes are common over most of the globe. Would a more modern Cummins engine offer a similar utility? The main issue it that of a higher cruising speed, so maybe finding out what others have done to solve this problem with their Unimog 404 conversions. Weight would also be a bit of a concern, as Africa has many roads where anything heavy is going to be far more difficult to pull out of muddy conditions etc.
There are no perfect engine options for it, but i have made my decision on what I'm doing and I'll show you soon! It's very exciting!
Looking forward to seeing what you do with this build however I don’t think your Mrs was too impressed with the mog 😂
No she is not a fan of the Unimog yet!
it could have the earlier diesel with 32-38 hp ;))
@espenbjerke665 No thank you! I have made the decision on what engine is going in it though and I'll report back soon
How are there only 60 views after 9hours?!?!
If only I knew! If I build it, they will come
Subscribe, it's going to get wild!
Put in 12V Cummins and allison trans :-)
I really want to put a 12 valve in it but I would like to keep it manual. There will be a lot of packaging issues but I think it would be awesome!
hummer in the unimog
@@edwardbughiuc100 Done.
@ 16:40: Your "moaning" about the position of the engine is cute...
imagine...
I have burn scars on my right leg from years of driving a MAN F7-F8, just from the gear lever that protrudes from the engine tunnel... because some stupid engineer thought the gear stick should be mounted near the turbo.
the first thing to fly out of the truck is the insulation, during a repair by a workshop because it is in the way, and the "RED-GLOWING" heat from the turbo goes straight into the small, harmless gear lever... LOL!!! ;)
@axelk4921 A true fellow enthusiast! I think I am going to fabricate some more permanent solution to really block off the engine from the cab rather than the flimsy crooked panels from the factory. Of course, we have a long way to go before we get to that. I'm glad to hear that other people will suffer with engineering flaws and discomfort in order to have an interesting 4x4. I salute you sir 🫡