add in that LEDs are cool. . . a big shooting advantage. Really enjoyed your presentation. I've worked with all these excellent lights that you report on and the way you presented made more sense to me now than all the brochures that were included. (It is cool to roll up to a shoot with those big Kino and Arri trunks . . .)
Yes! I can’t believe I skipped over this oh so important point! Especially here in AUS, cooler lights are a big bonus when the AC goes off! Thank you for your kind words, I really appreciate it and am thrilled you enjoyed the video. And yes, rocking up with those trunks is kinda cool isn’t it! 😎 haha.
My Nanlite led pannel has indeed been one of the best purchase I've made. One question : why is still the tungsten the best for a warm color ? Compared, for example, to a led light with color correction
Hey Simon, Thanks for the excellent question! To be honest, the difference between using a tungsten fixture and gelling a high CRI/TLCI LED is fairly nominal. It’s well within that zone of diminishing returns. Gelling will get you 95% of the way there in terms of light quality and this is what I do on my shoots the majority of the time. I live in Australia, so let’s be honest, it’s hot enough here as it is without pulling out the tungstens 😂 But I can’t quite put my finger on it. Whenever I put two lights side by side as a key/fill combo, with a tungsten key and an LED or fluro as the fill, I also ways notice how much better the tungsten side looks. It’s really subtle. The skin always has more life to it, the skin tones and colours are always fantastic, whereas the led or fluro always seems to have a slight green/magenta shift (even the high cri ones - barely noticeable, but there) and don’t have that same “healthy glow” (for lack of a better term) to them. It’s probably because tungstens are a full spectrum source. It’s hard to know if it’s the gel or the fixture causing the shift, but going with a native colour temperature always seems to look better, to me anyway. And if you have a bicolor LED with 3200k, the difference is slimmer again. The inverse is also true, LED’s always look better at 5600k then a gelled tungsten light. I’m certainly not going to suggest it’s worth going out of your way to buy an old tungsten light when you have excellent LED’s and gels on hand, but if you so happen to find a bargain one day and you have the cash to play, it might be worth considering it to experiment and see if you notice a difference yourself. This is of course, totally up to you! Take all this with a grain of salt, there’s nothing scientific here, this is my opinion drawn from my own experience. If there are any gaffers reading this, please chime in!
@@CreativePathFilms hi there I'm not a light scientist at all, but I recently saw a video of one from another lighting company explaining how different daylight LED fixtures can all produce different saturations (as well as per hue) from each other despite having similar cri and tlci. That could be a reason its still different to have a tungsten vs a 300x vs a daylight fixture with gel
I use 2000w tungsten fresnel lights ...but never inside ,I just use them for outdoor shoot mainly or blasting lights from outside after using a 8x8 silk to diffuse the sun
This is a great question! I want to preface this by saying, this is just my opinion and I am not a professional gaffer. If I was, my response would most likely be very different. I think HMI’s won’t be worth the money in about 5 years time, when LED’s can match HMI’s for output. LED’s have already dominated the small & medium sized lighting market. But at the moment, the larger LED’s (Forza 500, Aputure 600D) are still only about 1/3 the brightness of a 1.2K HMI. So if you need to fill large areas for, say, a night exterior, HMI is still the way to go. If you’re a gaffer that does these shoots every other week, they’re absolutely worth the money. If you do these shoots a handful of times a year, like us, it’s not worth the money and we’re better off renting those lights when we need them. I think HMI’s are probably going to be a rental only light for most people. That all being said, if money were no object, I’d go HMI for their efficiency and output and that fact that I think 5600k is a more useful colour temp than Tungsten, despite the 15+ minute warm up and cool down times. But Tungstens and HMI’s are very different tools for different jobs, and tungstens are beautiful when you need that warmer look, and they’re way cheaper (I own a bunch of them). Not sure if that gives you a clear answer, but those are my thoughts. Thanks for the question! ~ Dave.
Ok Ok i scoured in a *lot* of articles and couldent find a defenitive answer.... why tungsten light emits a ful spectrum of light? i mean... i know that pure white light' ,like the sun, contains the whole color spectrum from purple to red. so why does the tungsten light emits a full spectrum? or im understanding it incorrectly.
I have been trying to find a definitive answer to your question for the last two weeks. But I haven’t found anything conclusive or satisfactory. I’m going to keep digging. But I didn’t want to let this sit unanswered. It would appear “full spectrum” isn’t a scientific term and there is no measure for what a “full spectrum” light is. It’s just become part of the industry vernacular. The definitions seem to vary a lot. Also, a tungsten filament is considered a black body radiator (read: something that emits light when heated) and is used as a reference source for CRI ratings, along with daylight sun. So it actually only gets a perfect score because it is the reference point that all other 3200k sources are attempting to match. This is what I have discovered so far. Thank you for posing this question, I’ll keep looking into it and report back. I may even do a video on this topic. Thank you 🙏🏼
Tungsten light is caused by pumping electrons into a filament thereby heating the filament until it glows similar to an incandescent light bulb (it’s actually almost identical). The light put out by tungsten is essentially fire at high temp, meaning that it’s totally natural and not replicating anything unlike HMI, led or flouro
@@CreativePathFilms thanks for a great vid! Neat to see how things have changed even from when this was made only two years ago. You hardly ever see legitimate flouros on set anymore, as they’ve been replaced by quasars and titan tubes. Things change so fast nowadays!
Hi Paul, This will be an incomplete list, but these are the ones we've used most frequently in each category. Here we go: Tungsten: Arrilite 2K, 1000, 800, 650+, 300, Dedolite DLH4, Ianiro Redheads. HMI: Arri M18, M8 as well as 1.2k par and 4k Fresnels that I can't remember the models (all hired at different times for different jobs). Fluro: Kino Diva, Lightpro 4x Fluro banks LED: Aputure 300D, 120D, 100D, Nanlite Forza 60, Aputure F7, 672, Falconeyes Light Mats as well as a bunch of other LED panels and tubes from various brands.
See, you don't know how much you don't know until you know. I knew some of these! Thanks for another clear and concise video!
Thank you for stopping by again Chris! So glad you’re enjoying the content 😊
V nice video nicely summarized content, thx for posting.
Thank you very much!
very well-edited content. easy to understand. Thank you so much.
Thank you! 😁
Thanks. Very helpful
You’re most welcome, I’m glad you found it useful.
Very helpful and genuine tutorial....thanks a lot.
Thank you! So glad you enjoyed it 😊
It is very interesting. Please do more content like this, but in more detail. Thank you!
We can certainly do that, we’re just getting started! Thank you so much for taking the time to leave a comment!
thanks, that was actually really informative.
Thank you so much! So happy you enjoyed it ~ Dave
add in that LEDs are cool. . . a big shooting advantage. Really enjoyed your presentation. I've worked with all these excellent lights that you report on and the way you presented made more sense to me now than all the brochures that were included. (It is cool to roll up to a shoot with those big Kino and Arri trunks . . .)
Yes! I can’t believe I skipped over this oh so important point! Especially here in AUS, cooler lights are a big bonus when the AC goes off!
Thank you for your kind words, I really appreciate it and am thrilled you enjoyed the video. And yes, rocking up with those trunks is kinda cool isn’t it! 😎 haha.
Thank u so much love from India
Our pleasure.
Really good video
Thank you very much! 🙏🏼😊
Good content 👍 i hope your channel grow
Thank you 🙏🏼 😊
Thank you
You’re very welcome!
great video, full of details...I subscribed!
Thanks John, so glad you enjoyed it. Welcome!
My Nanlite led pannel has indeed been one of the best purchase I've made.
One question : why is still the tungsten the best for a warm color ? Compared, for example, to a led light with color correction
Hey Simon,
Thanks for the excellent question!
To be honest, the difference between using a tungsten fixture and gelling a high CRI/TLCI LED is fairly nominal. It’s well within that zone of diminishing returns.
Gelling will get you 95% of the way there in terms of light quality and this is what I do on my shoots the majority of the time.
I live in Australia, so let’s be honest, it’s hot enough here as it is without pulling out the tungstens 😂
But I can’t quite put my finger on it. Whenever I put two lights side by side as a key/fill combo, with a tungsten key and an LED or fluro as the fill, I also ways notice how much better the tungsten side looks. It’s really subtle.
The skin always has more life to it, the skin tones and colours are always fantastic, whereas the led or fluro always seems to have a slight green/magenta shift (even the high cri ones - barely noticeable, but there) and don’t have that same “healthy glow” (for lack of a better term) to them. It’s probably because tungstens are a full spectrum source.
It’s hard to know if it’s the gel or the fixture causing the shift, but going with a native colour temperature always seems to look better, to me anyway. And if you have a bicolor LED with 3200k, the difference is slimmer again.
The inverse is also true, LED’s always look better at 5600k then a gelled tungsten light.
I’m certainly not going to suggest it’s worth going out of your way to buy an old tungsten light when you have excellent LED’s and gels on hand, but if you so happen to find a bargain one day and you have the cash to play, it might be worth considering it to experiment and see if you notice a difference yourself. This is of course, totally up to you!
Take all this with a grain of salt, there’s nothing scientific here, this is my opinion drawn from my own experience. If there are any gaffers reading this, please chime in!
@@CreativePathFilms Thank you for taking the time to write this precise answer !
@@SimonPotaufeux my pleasure! Always happy to help 😊
@@CreativePathFilms hi there I'm not a light scientist at all, but I recently saw a video of one from another lighting company explaining how different daylight LED fixtures can all produce different saturations (as well as per hue) from each other despite having similar cri and tlci. That could be a reason its still different to have a tungsten vs a 300x vs a daylight fixture with gel
Thanks for sharing Zion! I’d be curious to see the video you’re talking about.
Thank you 💜
Our pleasure. Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
My pleasure 😄
Cheap LED's also cause photophobia over time, you forgot to add that.
I’ll have to look into that further. Thanks for contributing.
I use 2000w tungsten fresnel lights ...but never inside ,I just use them for outdoor shoot mainly or blasting lights from outside after using a 8x8 silk to diffuse the sun
Nice! Nothing like a tungsten 2k through a nice big soft source.
Are HMIs worth the money? and if you had the money HMI or Tungsten?
This is a great question!
I want to preface this by saying, this is just my opinion and I am not a professional gaffer. If I was, my response would most likely be very different.
I think HMI’s won’t be worth the money in about 5 years time, when LED’s can match HMI’s for output. LED’s have already dominated the small & medium sized lighting market. But at the moment, the larger LED’s (Forza 500, Aputure 600D) are still only about 1/3 the brightness of a 1.2K HMI.
So if you need to fill large areas for, say, a night exterior, HMI is still the way to go. If you’re a gaffer that does these shoots every other week, they’re absolutely worth the money. If you do these shoots a handful of times a year, like us, it’s not worth the money and we’re better off renting those lights when we need them. I think HMI’s are probably going to be a rental only light for most people.
That all being said, if money were no object, I’d go HMI for their efficiency and output and that fact that I think 5600k is a more useful colour temp than Tungsten, despite the 15+ minute warm up and cool down times.
But Tungstens and HMI’s are very different tools for different jobs, and tungstens are beautiful when you need that warmer look, and they’re way cheaper (I own a bunch of them).
Not sure if that gives you a clear answer, but those are my thoughts. Thanks for the question!
~ Dave.
yeah this is good
Thank you Drew! 😊
Ok Ok i scoured in a *lot* of articles and couldent find a defenitive answer.... why tungsten light emits a ful spectrum of light? i mean... i know that pure white light' ,like the sun, contains the whole color spectrum from purple to red. so why does the tungsten light emits a full spectrum? or im understanding it incorrectly.
I have been trying to find a definitive answer to your question for the last two weeks. But I haven’t found anything conclusive or satisfactory. I’m going to keep digging. But I didn’t want to let this sit unanswered.
It would appear “full spectrum” isn’t a scientific term and there is no measure for what a “full spectrum” light is. It’s just become part of the industry vernacular. The definitions seem to vary a lot.
Also, a tungsten filament is considered a black body radiator (read: something that emits light when heated) and is used as a reference source for CRI ratings, along with daylight sun. So it actually only gets a perfect score because it is the reference point that all other 3200k sources are attempting to match.
This is what I have discovered so far. Thank you for posing this question, I’ll keep looking into it and report back. I may even do a video on this topic.
Thank you 🙏🏼
Tungsten light is caused by pumping electrons into a filament thereby heating the filament until it glows similar to an incandescent light bulb (it’s actually almost identical). The light put out by tungsten is essentially fire at high temp, meaning that it’s totally natural and not replicating anything unlike HMI, led or flouro
Thanks for chiming in 🙂
@@CreativePathFilms thanks for a great vid! Neat to see how things have changed even from when this was made only two years ago. You hardly ever see legitimate flouros on set anymore, as they’ve been replaced by quasars and titan tubes. Things change so fast nowadays!
Thank you! It’s so wild to see the speed at which things are changing! Its exciting times to see so much rapid innovation.
what lights have you used in this video?
Hi Paul,
This will be an incomplete list, but these are the ones we've used most frequently in each category. Here we go:
Tungsten: Arrilite 2K, 1000, 800, 650+, 300, Dedolite DLH4, Ianiro Redheads.
HMI: Arri M18, M8 as well as 1.2k par and 4k Fresnels that I can't remember the models (all hired at different times for different jobs).
Fluro: Kino Diva, Lightpro 4x Fluro banks
LED: Aputure 300D, 120D, 100D, Nanlite Forza 60, Aputure F7, 672, Falconeyes Light Mats as well as a bunch of other LED panels and tubes from various brands.
Hhahaha
😎