10:30 - the exhaust out from the silencer isn't steamy any more, but it still condenses on the ground and the brick wall. you can see this from the darker areas to the left of the tailpipe. Also, the closer the thermometer is to the surface, the more accurate.
if theres no baffles on the cylinder its going straight in and straight out - you need to make a long path to extract the heat, the only way you get heat out is from the hot air contacting metal, as current the air is going to take the path of least resistance which is straight out the other side of the bottle. You'll capture some heat with the chamber but the vast majority will still be getting blown through. You might have even had a better result from making the exhaust enter at the top of the bottle (still on a side wall) and exit at the bottom in line with the entrance. This would have promoted more turbulence in the bottle - you want turbulence to promote contact between the hot air and the metal walls. Thats the only way you can extract any heat. If you can draw a straight line from entrance to exit it'll be too easy of a path. I wonder if you can do something similar to how cylonic dust filters work, where you have the inlet at a tangent to the chamber wall and the outlet in the centre floor - this promotes a cyclone of air in the bottle that only exits when its lost a fair amount of energy, and I think it would make the hot air stick to the outer walls for longer. Either way, still won't be better than just like a coil of pipe or a long tube or something. You're honestly probably getting more heat to the room from that length of exhaust than you are the bottle from its surface area and resulting constant contact with the hot air alone. The condensation being gone from the exhaust is also a bad sign - the water vapour is still there, its just only visible when it gets cool enough. The fact you lose it on higher output means the air flow is overwhelming the attempt your making to extract. Ultimately when you've extracted all the heat from the exhaust, that water vapour will trickle out as liquid water because a significant amount of it should condense inside the system - the colder air is the less ability it has to hold water, which is exactly why we see visible condensation in the air when warm moist air hits cold air. The fact its no longer visible means that its hot enough to lose its energy to the outside colder air and still is able to retain the water thanks to how hot it stayed. Others have just ran long coils of copper to run the exhaust throught for the heat. The issue you'll soon hit is when the exhaust gets cold enough the water from combustion will start condensing out like I said before, and its very acidic so will relatively rapidly corrode its way through your metalwork. At the very least you want a smooth gradient from the heater => the exhaust exit to try and take the water with it with the air flow + gravity. Currently looks like the lowest point in your system is the heater itself so will pool at the bottom of that point in the system. I also probably wouldn't be doing this for long term use without some way to properly test for air-tightness. Even something as daft as taking the heater off, partially or entirely clogging the exhaust outlet and blowing by mouth after taking a drag off one of those crazy vape pens and looking for smoke at the joints would be better than nothing.
You shout try putting a coil in the gas bottle. Exhaust going in one side of the coil pipe and out the other side and then fill the gas bottle up with sand and when the sand gets hot it will stay hot for a longer time
You can use that setup to heat water if you install a copper tube serpentine inside... and build a circulating water system or a thermal reservoir... It's also possible to use it as a sand battery... It also depends on the temperature of the exhaust and the insulation you can use for the container for better results...
2 месяца назад+2
good idea, how about using a radiator? it would increase the heat exchange even better
Of all the methods you have tried which seems to be all of them, which heated the room the most? I was considering running exchaust gas through radiator then saw your video on car EGR which I have a spare
Unbalanced intake, long exhaust, adding something that causes exhaust back pressure and cools the exhaust gasses and to top it off the exhaust pipe out of the heater drops bellow the inlet on the gas cylinder creating a trap and sealed with epoxy! If it doesn't start leaking after a few heat cycles it will soon clog the exhaust.
This isn't an internal combustion engine so the calculation is different. further the cooling is going to lower the pressure. but yes, I would make sure the pipe is continuous. Id put fins on the exhaust, or route it through an old oil filled radiator.
@@benholroyd5221 complete diesel combustion requires a lot of air. The more the better. Thing that restrict the air flow result in incomplete combustion which will cause soot build up in the exhaust pipe. Excessively long exhaust or intake pipe causes a air flow restriction. Uneven exhaust and inlet pipe cause a pressure imbalance. Having the inlet inside the build and the exhaust outside causes a pressure imbalance. The unburnt hydrocarbons in the exhaust gases become sticky when cooled, coating the exhaust pipe. If the epoxy manages to withstand the heat and not leak you're likely to have an exhaust clog before long if the catalyst inside the diesel heater doesn't burn out 1st
@@shabadoo.music.productions yes, but you can increase pipe diameter, and if you cool the exhaust quickly enough that decreases pressure so that would also help. Concerns about soot and unburnt fuel. Perhaps? I haven't run one of these heaters. Running lean in an IC engine is generally to lower temperature. I would have though these would run leaner because of different considerations. Whether there would still be a soot issue, maybe I don't know. I would be amazed if this didn't burn cleaner than a wood stove, and they don't block themselves that quickly. This is much closer to a condensing boiler where there's no issue with those.
Well you will have heat but you may also collect unburnt fuel (present during shutdown purge) with oxygen may go pop !. Scrap this it really is not a good idea, in your video using sand I posted a comment that may give you some safer options for extracting waste heat and through a plate heat exchanger transfer it to the house radiators or hot water tank. Best wishes.
You can tell there are so many people that have never tried anything. I have a similar set-up but using a radiator. Works perfect
please get a co detector if you plan on running that in a unventilated room
i was thinking the same would probably be fine but having a little co detector just to be safe never hurt
10:30 - the exhaust out from the silencer isn't steamy any more, but it still condenses on the ground and the brick wall. you can see this from the darker areas to the left of the tailpipe. Also, the closer the thermometer is to the surface, the more accurate.
as long the exhaust feels hot there is energie to win
if theres no baffles on the cylinder its going straight in and straight out - you need to make a long path to extract the heat, the only way you get heat out is from the hot air contacting metal, as current the air is going to take the path of least resistance which is straight out the other side of the bottle. You'll capture some heat with the chamber but the vast majority will still be getting blown through. You might have even had a better result from making the exhaust enter at the top of the bottle (still on a side wall) and exit at the bottom in line with the entrance. This would have promoted more turbulence in the bottle - you want turbulence to promote contact between the hot air and the metal walls. Thats the only way you can extract any heat. If you can draw a straight line from entrance to exit it'll be too easy of a path. I wonder if you can do something similar to how cylonic dust filters work, where you have the inlet at a tangent to the chamber wall and the outlet in the centre floor - this promotes a cyclone of air in the bottle that only exits when its lost a fair amount of energy, and I think it would make the hot air stick to the outer walls for longer. Either way, still won't be better than just like a coil of pipe or a long tube or something. You're honestly probably getting more heat to the room from that length of exhaust than you are the bottle from its surface area and resulting constant contact with the hot air alone.
The condensation being gone from the exhaust is also a bad sign - the water vapour is still there, its just only visible when it gets cool enough. The fact you lose it on higher output means the air flow is overwhelming the attempt your making to extract. Ultimately when you've extracted all the heat from the exhaust, that water vapour will trickle out as liquid water because a significant amount of it should condense inside the system - the colder air is the less ability it has to hold water, which is exactly why we see visible condensation in the air when warm moist air hits cold air. The fact its no longer visible means that its hot enough to lose its energy to the outside colder air and still is able to retain the water thanks to how hot it stayed.
Others have just ran long coils of copper to run the exhaust throught for the heat. The issue you'll soon hit is when the exhaust gets cold enough the water from combustion will start condensing out like I said before, and its very acidic so will relatively rapidly corrode its way through your metalwork. At the very least you want a smooth gradient from the heater => the exhaust exit to try and take the water with it with the air flow + gravity. Currently looks like the lowest point in your system is the heater itself so will pool at the bottom of that point in the system.
I also probably wouldn't be doing this for long term use without some way to properly test for air-tightness. Even something as daft as taking the heater off, partially or entirely clogging the exhaust outlet and blowing by mouth after taking a drag off one of those crazy vape pens and looking for smoke at the joints would be better than nothing.
You shout try putting a coil in the gas bottle. Exhaust going in one side of the coil pipe and out the other side and then fill the gas bottle up with sand and when the sand gets hot it will stay hot for a longer time
Sorry I did look at your other videos you already tried it
Good tip!
did you see my other heater videos: www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think
cheers andy
use baffles on inside and fins on outside
Submerging this gas tank into a large tank that contains water, thus creating a heat battery?
Does the lcd display have a thermostat on it ?
yes
You can use that setup to heat water if you install a copper tube serpentine inside... and build a circulating water system or a thermal reservoir... It's also possible to use it as a sand battery...
It also depends on the temperature of the exhaust and the insulation you can use for the container for better results...
good idea, how about using a radiator? it would increase the heat exchange even better
i did this in another vid, please take a look, let me know what you think
cheers andy
Of all the methods you have tried which seems to be all of them, which heated the room the most? I was considering running exchaust gas through radiator then saw your video on car EGR which I have a spare
though the radiator give the most heat
cheers andy
When you say you're using kerosene is that the same as paraffin?
yes cheers andy
Natural selection
What's the heat rating of epoxy?
There are high temp epoxys out there, cant speak for the brand used in the video...
not sure but i have used it on exhausts and inter coolers cheers andy
Unbalanced intake, long exhaust, adding something that causes exhaust back pressure and cools the exhaust gasses and to top it off the exhaust pipe out of the heater drops bellow the inlet on the gas cylinder creating a trap and sealed with epoxy!
If it doesn't start leaking after a few heat cycles it will soon clog the exhaust.
This isn't an internal combustion engine so the calculation is different.
further the cooling is going to lower the pressure.
but yes, I would make sure the pipe is continuous. Id put fins on the exhaust, or route it through an old oil filled radiator.
@@benholroyd5221 complete diesel combustion requires a lot of air. The more the better. Thing that restrict the air flow result in incomplete combustion which will cause soot build up in the exhaust pipe. Excessively long exhaust or intake pipe causes a air flow restriction. Uneven exhaust and inlet pipe cause a pressure imbalance. Having the inlet inside the build and the exhaust outside causes a pressure imbalance. The unburnt hydrocarbons in the exhaust gases become sticky when cooled, coating the exhaust pipe.
If the epoxy manages to withstand the heat and not leak you're likely to have an exhaust clog before long if the catalyst inside the diesel heater doesn't burn out 1st
@@shabadoo.music.productions yes, but you can increase pipe diameter, and if you cool the exhaust quickly enough that decreases pressure so that would also help.
Concerns about soot and unburnt fuel. Perhaps? I haven't run one of these heaters. Running lean in an IC engine is generally to lower temperature. I would have though these would run leaner because of different considerations. Whether there would still be a soot issue, maybe I don't know.
I would be amazed if this didn't burn cleaner than a wood stove, and they don't block themselves that quickly. This is much closer to a condensing boiler where there's no issue with those.
Great point!
Well you will have heat but you may also collect unburnt fuel (present during shutdown purge) with oxygen may go pop !. Scrap this it really is not a good idea, in your video using sand I posted a comment that may give you some safer options for extracting waste heat and through a plate heat exchanger transfer it to the house radiators or hot water tank. Best wishes.