I'm sure that you'll find, especially with the shapton stones, that if you polish under running water instead of trying to polish with the swarthy and slurry building up, you will achieve a higher degree of mirror polish, much easier and faster.
Like the comparison of stones, that's why I stopped by. But, I was told by people, butchers and the like, that if you are cutting meat you don't need to go above 6000 grit, even 5000 may be a little high. Because the sinew and the like will, I think, bend the blade or make it curved. As for sharpening, I guess a video like this helps people, but, it's not surgery or rocket science. I am looking for new stones for my razors, but the boredom of going back and forth, not for me. It has to be as few passes as possible, life is to short and there is so much to do out there than sharpening blades. Well, thanks for the comparison. God Bless James
Thanks a lot! For a regular knife you'd only have to go to 3.000 grit actually. above just makes it look nice. It doesnt necessarily make the edge weaker if you keep the angle right. However the butcher is right that that crazy sharp edge from 5-10k stones crumbles of in a few cuts. 10k is perhaps still nice for a fish knife and making sashimi.
Thanks for that, I was considering a Naniwa Pro 10,000 grit, but it's expensive and I'm not a sushi chef. So, I probably don't even need it. My main knives are a Wusthof Classic and Epicure (love) and a 10 inch 52100 Carbon. I picked up the Naniwa 3000 last week and so far I love it, though I am new to this and just starting to really learn. So for that thank you, your videos are very informative.
nice sharpening! a little free advice, try to keep the fingers you're using to apply pressure over the stone at all times. It appears that you're on both the left and right side of the stone for a lot of this video, and you can see metal building up on the stone's edges. Of course, those edges will sharpen, but it will be more effective if you work in smaller segments over the stone.
A large home made leather strop with good leather and menzerna final finish machine polishing compound will make it mirror and cost $20 - $30. Only very exotic stones could match it
For the shaptons, try putting some small pieces of electrical tape along the lips of the tray. It will hold the stone a bit better and keep it from moving around on you.
Two things to consider. You are not polishing VG10. The out clads are much softer. With polishing stones of any grit, the metal needs to be washed off the stone and knife regularly to give an accurate review of the stones ability to polish. Both stones made a dark grey slurry that was all metal. That moot likely was the reason for the mirror but cloudy finishes.
So I just started watching Dutch Bushcraft Knives recently, you guys are not only shockingly knowledgeable for your age, but also the two most entertaining bastards in the knife review realm! I can't afford chosera or shapton, but I do have two king stones for my Chef knives. I looked into this stuff because I'm a cook by trade and I wanted to see what other people use to sharpen their tools. The question I have is, what do you recommend for a cheap way to make or buy a leather strop? I've been using an old belt but I'd like something more solid, also I just received my first two bushcraft knives! I never would have considered buying one but y'all have gotten me interested, they are both morakniv.
thanks a lot for the awesome kind words Jed! we really appreciate it a lot! I'd suggest searching a leather / garment store for the leather scraps. they often cost 1 euro or something per piece. find a piece that isn;t softened or dyed. The leather should be pretty thin (see the DLT strop as an example) glue it with the smooth side down on a piece of multiplex or wooden plank (both sides). You should be good to go. I suggest bark river black and white compound. Both are very fast and do a great job. You don't need the green compound. hope this helps!
Isn't the Damascus cladding significantly softer than the VG10 core? I know Takayuki is also sold under the Togiharu name, but that looks a lot like the Yoshihiro hammered Damascus knives. Wonder if they're all being made in the same forge.
the damascus is indeed much softer than the VG-10 core. this is to give the knife more toughness and make it less prone to breakage. Information about Japanese knives is very limited here in the Netherlands. I guess the traditional Japanese knife makers see exporting only as a burden but a must for sales.
+Silver Seto I will try to film the process.It'll be a while before i'm able to do it. i'm going to do it at someone else's place. hopefully next month.
Good day oceanrider12. You can get a holder with stainless rails at toolsfromjapan.com They are excellent quality. He offers stainless as an option and two or three rubber blocks. I like having a center block for support
i made a knife with a hybrid scandi-chisel edge and it will shave, push cut phone book paper, whittle wood, and it holds a good edge. :D i learned to sharpen from you guys so thanks very much!
I recently purchased the shapton 12000 for the final finish for my hand plane irons so ill be curious to see them when finished, as some of them are softer than others … good video thanks !!
I viewed your video on the Fallkniven A1 Knife. Very good video... I am looking at purchasing the new A1 Pro. What are your thoughts on that knife? Would you recommend it?
+joe ayala I'm getting it next month I hope. I like that they put the metal bolster on the a1 pro which makes it more sturdy for batonning. I think I also like it's increased thickness. I still can't say how good CoS is in comparison to vg-10 but I'm quite happy with my f1 pro so far.
Think it just has to do with the where resistance of the steel alone with how many and how hard the carbides are in that steel. If u take something like 8cr13mov it'll get sharper quicker and polished faster then say s30v with a much higher where resistance.
After you used the nagura stone did you wash off the slurry or keep it on? I started getting waterstones in the same line as these kuromaku ones and was wondering if I should get matching grit nagura stones or if there is a kind of one grit works for all higher grit stones and a grit works for lower grit stones. I have my find dmt diamond stone to flatten before and while using which is 600 grit and a xcoarse dmt for when I really need to flatten which is 220 grit. I have a king kds 1k/6k stone and just got a 6k nagura stone for the 6K side and was wondering when I get a 8k ha no kuromaku should I get a 8k nagura or will 6k work? Or at the 8k mark do you want a nagura to create a slurry as well as flatten and use the slurry instead of washing it off. Hope that's not all confusing. Main question is should I get matching grit nagura stones for each one? And do you think I should get a 12k kuromaku or will the 8k and strop be just fine for nice mirrored edges? And one last thing, I have a 320 kuromaku for my lowest because I am trying to cover the entire range to make it so I don't need to use my diamond stones for low grits and serious reprofiling but I was wondering if you think the 320 would be low enough or should I get the 220 or even 120 in the shapton kuromaku line. Hope you can make sense of all this and answer all of it simply haha. Great video
Hey paul, I used to used to use these nagura stones a lot. i left the slurry on to enhance the sharpening feel. I eventually felt like I didn’t need a nagura on these stones at all. I now only use the nagura stones on certain kitchen knives as it sometimes helps to reveal the lamination lines. If you only intend to use nagura stones to remove scratches from your stones I found that 600 grit is enough to polish a 3000 grit stone. Just make sure to wash the stone clean after. Nagura stones are most useful on very hard natural stones where they’ll help to reveal new carbides. I mostly start my sharpening and even regrinding on 400 grit. If I need to regrind some crazy steel I start on shapton 120 grit. I never use my 220 grit stone anymore as it is way way softer than the 120 grit somehow. For a mirror polish it really depends on the steel. Every steel reacts different. Some steels take a cloudy finish on some stones. I find that I mostly go to 5k and strop after to make a mirror. For harder steels on which you strop out tiny scratches less easily I go up to 8k or sometimes 12k. I find myself only using 12k for kitchen knives though.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives Hey bro I just got the bark river white compound! It was only 14$ on dlt trading website! I thought it was 100$ because amazon had the same one for 100$! So I never bought it this entire time. Anyways this will be for after my free hand sharpening with a 6k but I will be getting a 8k shapton but anyways should i get the black compound too? It won't make more scratches since the black is 3000 grit and I will finish on a 8k stone...? Or does it not work that way. Anyways super excited to see how it does on my daily stropping with the knives i use. P.s. I'm getting a bark river in 3v I think 😀
Dutch Bushcraft Knives oh ya and one other thing. Any tips on getting the bark river white on for the first time? I sanded the other side of my 2 sided strop down to 600grit with wet dry sandpaper so it really fine but still grabby but its more like suede. Should I rough it up a bit instead? Like 120 grit? The compound is barely showing up. Or will it just build up after I use it and it starts to turn black and just keep adding and then it will eventually be caked like yours? I don't know why I'm acting like I don't know this stuff knives and sharpening are my life lol. Just like hearing different opinions and techniques. Oh and hilarious pepper challenge video. You and Micky**(spelling?) Are just so damn funny. I love how mickey laughs his ass off when you were dying from the peppers but then he is like all dizzy and looks like he is poisoned when his kicks in....then looks back at you and laughs so loud. I was laughing my ass off with him I cant lie lol
Naniwa don't do well in water. And they are the best toothy edge deburring whetstones. Also great polishing whetstones. Naniwa also don't sharpen well. Naniwa is a polishing and deburring whetstones.
+joe ayala I bought my shapton ha-no-kuromaku in Japan from diy-tool.com. Good and quick service but they don't really speak english. I paid only like €25,- euro's for it ($30). Shipping was pretty cheap as well. She naniwa snow white 8k I got from knivesandtools.com they have shops in some different countries in europe.
this is not nearly a mirror finish. u need a fast turning polishingwheel. stones are good to polish the very edge but a big surface like the side of a knife has to be done with fast wheel and with a special technique.....not possible with even the best fastest finest stone. buy 2 buffer wheels and mount it on a bench grinder. you be much faster, you end up with a real mirror and NO you don't overheat the edge if you know what you are doing.
Or buy some 2,000+ grit sandpaper and then the polishing compound... don’t need any power tools or machines to create a perfect mirror polish just patience
+Sandy Fleming Shapton ha-no-kuromaku is quite affordable if you buy them in Japan. search.diy-tool.com/?searchbox=1&q=shapton&submit.x=0&submit.y=0&submit=検索する Otherwise there is King but their stones are a lot softer and don't take of much steel of high grade steels. If you only use a mora or so you can get a cheap 2 sides stone with let's say 800 grit and 2000 grit and then strop with compound
@@marktong6755 not quite, with natural stones the edge last longer than synthetic, also there isn't a defined grit, it is finer as you sharpen. Just compare the price, natural stones always fetch a higher price
@@marktong6755 sharpening is also a way to reflect and condense oneself, Japanese prefer the misty haze finished/kasumi because they realized that the most beautiful thing nature has to offer is its mellow subtly, not the bedazzling mirror reflection of harsh sharpness
Wow! That's Beautifully Polished Steel! Like you said they each have their own unique beauty.
Thank You for Sharing Your Knowledge and Experience!
+James White thanks mate!
There’s something extra satisfying about sharpening on white stones IMO... being able to see the results of every stroke is something I really enjoy.
I'm sure that you'll find, especially with the shapton stones, that if you polish under running water instead of trying to polish with the swarthy and slurry building up, you will achieve a higher degree of mirror polish, much easier and faster.
thanks for the tip! I will try it for sure!
Yea the metal shavings on the stone don't help. They scratch.
That Naniwa 8k stone is gorgeous. Next stone I'm going to buy.
Brother, I am deep. I miss these old sharpening videos
Like the comparison of stones, that's why I stopped by.
But, I was told by people, butchers and the like, that if you are cutting meat you don't need to go above 6000 grit, even 5000 may be a little high.
Because the sinew and the like will, I think, bend the blade or make it curved.
As for sharpening, I guess a video like this helps people, but, it's not surgery or rocket science. I am looking for new stones for my razors, but the boredom of going back and forth, not for me. It has to be as few passes as possible, life is to short and there is so much to do out there than sharpening blades.
Well, thanks for the comparison.
God Bless
James
Thanks a lot! For a regular knife you'd only have to go to 3.000 grit actually. above just makes it look nice. It doesnt necessarily make the edge weaker if you keep the angle right. However the butcher is right that that crazy sharp edge from 5-10k stones crumbles of in a few cuts. 10k is perhaps still nice for a fish knife and making sashimi.
Thanks for that, I was considering a Naniwa Pro 10,000 grit, but it's expensive and I'm not a sushi chef. So, I probably don't even need it. My main knives are a Wusthof Classic and Epicure (love) and a 10 inch 52100 Carbon. I picked up the Naniwa 3000 last week and so far I love it, though I am new to this and just starting to really learn. So for that thank you, your videos are very informative.
nice sharpening! a little free advice, try to keep the fingers you're using to apply pressure over the stone at all times. It appears that you're on both the left and right side of the stone for a lot of this video, and you can see metal building up on the stone's edges. Of course, those edges will sharpen, but it will be more effective if you work in smaller segments over the stone.
A large home made leather strop with good leather and menzerna final finish machine polishing compound will make it mirror and cost $20 - $30. Only very exotic stones could match it
For the shaptons, try putting some small pieces of electrical tape along the lips of the tray. It will hold the stone a bit better and keep it from moving around on you.
BTW, you guys have the best knife reviews. been watching your channel for a while. keep it up!
thanks a lot and good tip!
If i only have one stone for get razor Sharp.. which stone do you suggest ?
I envy your sharpening skill, your vids are fun to watch.
+BirdShot IV thanks a lot mate!
Two things to consider. You are not polishing VG10. The out clads are much softer.
With polishing stones of any grit, the metal needs to be washed off the stone and knife regularly to give an accurate review of the stones ability to polish. Both stones made a dark grey slurry that was all metal. That moot likely was the reason for the mirror but cloudy finishes.
+chuckyz2 thanks for the info Chucky! Appreciate it!
Are these stones purely for creating a mirrored finish, and not really for increasing sharpness...?
So I just started watching Dutch Bushcraft Knives recently, you guys are not only shockingly knowledgeable for your age, but also the two most entertaining bastards in the knife review realm! I can't afford chosera or shapton, but I do have two king stones for my Chef knives. I looked into this stuff because I'm a cook by trade and I wanted to see what other people use to sharpen their tools. The question I have is, what do you recommend for a cheap way to make or buy a leather strop? I've been using an old belt but I'd like something more solid, also I just received my first two bushcraft knives! I never would have considered buying one but y'all have gotten me interested, they are both morakniv.
thanks a lot for the awesome kind words Jed! we really appreciate it a lot!
I'd suggest searching a leather / garment store for the leather scraps. they often cost 1 euro or something per piece. find a piece that isn;t softened or dyed. The leather should be pretty thin (see the DLT strop as an example) glue it with the smooth side down on a piece of multiplex or wooden plank (both sides). You should be good to go.
I suggest bark river black and white compound. Both are very fast and do a great job. You don't need the green compound.
hope this helps!
Just became a subscriber to your channel. I appreciate your videos & knowledge very helpful... Thank You
+joe ayala thank you very much for your kind comment!
nice work. but isn't it a step back to strop on a higher grit than your highest grit stone?
thanks mate!! this video is of great help!
Isn't the Damascus cladding significantly softer than the VG10 core?
I know Takayuki is also sold under the Togiharu name, but that looks a lot like the Yoshihiro hammered Damascus knives. Wonder if they're all being made in the same forge.
the damascus is indeed much softer than the VG-10 core. this is to give the knife more toughness and make it less prone to breakage. Information about Japanese knives is very limited here in the Netherlands. I guess the traditional Japanese knife makers see exporting only as a burden but a must for sales.
have you used any stones that would replicate the mirror finish it had at first?
Could you show the finished product after your applied the chemical to get damascus pattern back?
+Silver Seto I will try to film the process.It'll be a while before i'm able to do it. i'm going to do it at someone else's place. hopefully next month.
Kool... Will be waiting on your A1 Pro video review.
You'll never get much of a mirror finish off of any stone with all that swarf building up. Ya gotta rinse that shit off once in awhile!
That's definitely not true.
morning Mate. or afternoon in Holland. your whetstone holder. does it have stainless steel guides.....if so.....where did you purchas it ? Cheers.
+oceanrider12 sadly not it does rust. I bought it at knivesandtools.com
Good day oceanrider12. You can get a holder with stainless rails at toolsfromjapan.com They are excellent quality. He offers stainless as an option and two or three rubber blocks. I like having a center block for support
mmschweizer .... Thank you for that.
Yes, Shamisen are known to have a very smooth sound.
it's possible to cut paper towels? I have much to learn.
it is possible but an edge that sharp doesn't last long. only suitable for sashimi knives etc.
i made a knife with a hybrid scandi-chisel edge and it will shave, push cut phone book paper, whittle wood, and it holds a good edge. :D i learned to sharpen from you guys so thanks very much!
wonderful Knife
have a great day
Guido
I recently purchased the shapton 12000 for the final finish for my hand plane irons so ill be curious to see them when finished, as some of them are softer than others … good video thanks !!
What is bark river compound?
Only Diamond that’s gonna give you the perfect mirror finish mostly from Diamond emulsion
I viewed your video on the Fallkniven A1 Knife. Very good video... I am looking at purchasing the new A1 Pro. What are your thoughts on that knife? Would you recommend it?
+joe ayala I'm getting it next month I hope. I like that they put the metal bolster on the a1 pro which makes it more sturdy for batonning. I think I also like it's increased thickness. I still can't say how good CoS is in comparison to vg-10 but I'm quite happy with my f1 pro so far.
Think it just has to do with the where resistance of the steel alone with how many and how hard the carbides are in that steel. If u take something like 8cr13mov it'll get sharper quicker and polished faster then say s30v with a much higher where resistance.
Always great videos! Appealing background music too. If you don't mind; what specifically is it?
check the description
A little perk in my opinion about white whetstones, you can see all the steel shavings clearly :)
Do you find that the naniwa stone is quite soft?
+Peter benn pan naniwa super Stones are soft. The Chosera and professional stones are hard. I only use hard stones
Kool... Thank You
After you used the nagura stone did you wash off the slurry or keep it on? I started getting waterstones in the same line as these kuromaku ones and was wondering if I should get matching grit nagura stones or if there is a kind of one grit works for all higher grit stones and a grit works for lower grit stones. I have my find dmt diamond stone to flatten before and while using which is 600 grit and a xcoarse dmt for when I really need to flatten which is 220 grit. I have a king kds 1k/6k stone and just got a 6k nagura stone for the 6K side and was wondering when I get a 8k ha no kuromaku should I get a 8k nagura or will 6k work? Or at the 8k mark do you want a nagura to create a slurry as well as flatten and use the slurry instead of washing it off. Hope that's not all confusing. Main question is should I get matching grit nagura stones for each one? And do you think I should get a 12k kuromaku or will the 8k and strop be just fine for nice mirrored edges? And one last thing, I have a 320 kuromaku for my lowest because I am trying to cover the entire range to make it so I don't need to use my diamond stones for low grits and serious reprofiling but I was wondering if you think the 320 would be low enough or should I get the 220 or even 120 in the shapton kuromaku line. Hope you can make sense of all this and answer all of it simply haha. Great video
Hey paul,
I used to used to use these nagura stones a lot. i left the slurry on to enhance the sharpening feel. I eventually felt like I didn’t need a nagura on these stones at all. I now only use the nagura stones on certain kitchen knives as it sometimes helps to reveal the lamination lines. If you only intend to use nagura stones to remove scratches from your stones I found that 600 grit is enough to polish a 3000 grit stone. Just make sure to wash the stone clean after.
Nagura stones are most useful on very hard natural stones where they’ll help to reveal new carbides.
I mostly start my sharpening and even regrinding on 400 grit. If I need to regrind some crazy steel I start on shapton 120 grit. I never use my 220 grit stone anymore as it is way way softer than the 120 grit somehow.
For a mirror polish it really depends on the steel. Every steel reacts different. Some steels take a cloudy finish on some stones. I find that I mostly go to 5k and strop after to make a mirror. For harder steels on which you strop out tiny scratches less easily I go up to 8k or sometimes 12k. I find myself only using 12k for kitchen knives though.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives Hey bro I just got the bark river white compound! It was only 14$ on dlt trading website! I thought it was 100$ because amazon had the same one for 100$! So I never bought it this entire time. Anyways this will be for after my free hand sharpening with a 6k but I will be getting a 8k shapton but anyways should i get the black compound too? It won't make more scratches since the black is 3000 grit and I will finish on a 8k stone...? Or does it not work that way. Anyways super excited to see how it does on my daily stropping with the knives i use. P.s. I'm getting a bark river in 3v I think 😀
Dutch Bushcraft Knives oh ya and one other thing. Any tips on getting the bark river white on for the first time? I sanded the other side of my 2 sided strop down to 600grit with wet dry sandpaper so it really fine but still grabby but its more like suede. Should I rough it up a bit instead? Like 120 grit? The compound is barely showing up. Or will it just build up after I use it and it starts to turn black and just keep adding and then it will eventually be caked like yours? I don't know why I'm acting like I don't know this stuff knives and sharpening are my life lol. Just like hearing different opinions and techniques. Oh and hilarious pepper challenge video. You and Micky**(spelling?) Are just so damn funny. I love how mickey laughs his ass off when you were dying from the peppers but then he is like all dizzy and looks like he is poisoned when his kicks in....then looks back at you and laughs so loud. I was laughing my ass off with him I cant lie lol
Naniwa don't do well in water. And they are the best toothy edge deburring whetstones. Also great polishing whetstones. Naniwa also don't sharpen well. Naniwa is a polishing and deburring whetstones.
Where can i get those & about how much?
+joe ayala
I bought my shapton ha-no-kuromaku in Japan from diy-tool.com. Good and quick service but they don't really speak english. I paid only like €25,- euro's for it ($30). Shipping was pretty cheap as well.
She naniwa snow white 8k I got from knivesandtools.com they have shops in some different countries in europe.
+Dutch Bushcraft Knives Just found out they become more expensive
To answer your second question, subscribe to Burrfection:
ruclips.net/channel/UCOluHMoKJ6CrS0kcybhaThg
I don't get a kickback, I'm just a fan. ^^
so, what stone you are prefers to?
+Boma Omaar I personally prefer the shapton for the price but naniwa feels much better
About the results, which one is more better in all category??
Get some diamond spray it polishes really well
I want to try some 0.5 micron diamond spray in the near future.
Aaaaand now you sell it lol
this is not nearly a mirror finish. u need a fast turning polishingwheel. stones are good to polish the very edge but a big surface like the side of a knife has to be done with fast wheel and with a special technique.....not possible with even the best fastest finest stone. buy 2 buffer wheels and mount it on a bench grinder. you be much faster, you end up with a real mirror and NO you don't overheat the edge if you know what you are doing.
Or buy some 2,000+ grit sandpaper and then the polishing compound... don’t need any power tools or machines to create a perfect mirror polish just patience
I really want some good sharpening stones do you know some cheap but good wetstones?
+Sandy Fleming Shapton ha-no-kuromaku is quite affordable if you buy them in Japan. search.diy-tool.com/?searchbox=1&q=shapton&submit.x=0&submit.y=0&submit=検索する
Otherwise there is King but their stones are a lot softer and don't take of much steel of high grade steels.
If you only use a mora or so you can get a cheap 2 sides stone with let's say 800 grit and 2000 grit and then strop with compound
Ok thank you for the feedback
If you get a hard stone like Shapton, also get a Sabitoru medium rust eraser to clean it. I learned that from the Burrfection channel. :-)
what's the point of chasing mirror finish? it doesn't mean anythings, for the price I would rather buy a good Jnat
MasterofPlay7
Aesthetic quality. People value beautiful things.
A mirror edge lasts longer than an unpolished edge
@@marktong6755 not quite, with natural stones the edge last longer than synthetic, also there isn't a defined grit, it is finer as you sharpen. Just compare the price, natural stones always fetch a higher price
@@marktong6755 sharpening is also a way to reflect and condense oneself, Japanese prefer the misty haze finished/kasumi because they realized that the most beautiful thing nature has to offer is its mellow subtly, not the bedazzling mirror reflection of harsh sharpness
apparently anything past 8k isnt even worth considering because its all marketing and nothing past 8k is accurately ground
cb7pwn
From one who frequently uses 8k - 30k I can say that this is nonsense.