Cones of calibration was super easy to check and very simple criteria to test. I didn't need to tinker with my printer's exposure settings at the end of the day after one print - but having the peace of mind that the settings were appropriate before trying a full scale print, and a prayer - it was nice. Thanks for sharing this vid.
This would be a great tool to test the PET (laminating pouches) hack over FEP sheets. Resorted to using the hack after I destroyed my FEP sheet and wanted to give it a test. Had to dial the exposure up slightly but this test would help push it further. I'm also pretty new to 3D printing so been learning a lot with your vids, great job!
Thanks for this, my first test was 2 seconds which didn't print any cones then I went to 6 seconds and everything printed included the failure cones. I will give 3.2 seconds a shot!
Commentaries divided into books? Wow. One can only dream of an office like that. Great content! Im still on the fence with 3D printer as i have young kids at home. Hopefully they grow and move out. Lol
Thanks to this video, I was finally able to dial in the exact Exposure setting on my Halot Sky in 4 prints! Now, for some reason. the section of the cones on the success side where the cones touch each in the middle is a thin hairline. So, I'm now playing with my speed settings.
@@majorair1 some resins with higher viscosity could have thin details or very tiny supports tear due to retraction speeds when the resin flows over them as it pulls the model out of the vat. reducing retract speed will aid in preventing this from occurring though in the case of the cones I see this not being as relevant due to the models design and position. also imo if your having this issue a revision of supports and the model would be recommended since it would put things more in the realm of chance than factors.
Temperature is intrinsically linked to exposure time - it looks like you were pretty cold with a jacket on, I was having more issues despite a good cones of calibration because sometimes it was too cold which can sometimes affect the exposure time needed. Colder temp needs longer exposure Good video
The cones of calibration were great for me. The mistake that I made was starting at 2s exposure time and walking up 0.1s at a time. After about five prints, things weren't getting any better, so then I started going up in 1s jumps. It turns out my optimum exposure time is 5s! So my advice would be to do big leaps first and then narrow it down.
5 secs? Shesh. I have a Saturn 8K and mine is set to 1.8 secs. All good cones and I only had 1 or 2 half cones on the fail side. I could probably drop it down a bit more but my words on the top are a little hard to read. Wonder if that's from being over exposed still.
@@JeremyDN It could be. You could also try a test print and see how that goes as well. I think older printers or ones with less powerful light sources have longer exposure times for layers. 5s was consider an improvement at one stage 😅
You mentioned fine tuning settings. As many RUclipsrs do. But there are no such settings to be found anywhere on this printer. I have the m5s pro. Nowhere can I find any settings on this thing. It prints a couple tenths of a millimeter wider than it does deep. And it prints a couple millimeters shorter than what's in the stl. Don't count on making anything around. Not unless you stretch your STL to make it round. You have to stretch it totally oblong.
I didn't. From my understanding there's no bits that actually float around for the "failure" side if they don't print. I could be wrong about, but it didn't (or at least I think it didn't) affect my results.
Hi, just bought a resin printer and tried to print the Cones Of Calibration. Twice it failed, only the 1st milimiter printed/stucked to the plate. What caused this? Thx
Hey man first off, I want to start by saying thank you for this video/tutorial. I just got my first resin printer (photon m3). My first prints so far are trying to calibrate my exposure settings. I am using lychee and just want to make some prints, like you said in the vid. But before I do that, I wanna make sure everything is dialed in the best I can. I have 4 exposure test prints so far ranging from 2.5-2.0 (I am using the default printer settings after adding the printer on the lychee slicer. The only thing I’ve changed is the exposure time. What I’ve noticed is at .1 exposure time between 2.3 and 2.2 is weird is 2.2 okay to still do some prints. (Successful-From left to right the first two cones are barely made. The third one is touching the fourth one almost on the fifth one is touching- on fail Side all have failed ) Was hope just to dial it in enough to get some actual prints. Once again sorry for the “noob questions”
At 2.3 exposure all cones on success side from but also som form on the failure side. Therefore I’m lost :/ once again sorry for the questions & great channel and Awesome Content!!
@@sixnine2818 Thanks so much!!! The CoC isn't a fool proof test and can have some anomalies. However I think you're probably ok to try test a print. If it's a little over exposed that's not really a problem. Better than being underexposed. I looked up your printer and Anycubic suggest between 2-3s depending on the resin. So 2.3s could be worth a try. All the best. www.anycubic.com/blogs/news/resin-settings-for-anycubic-3d-printers#photonm3
Exposure time. Bottom exposure time is for the first 6-10 layers (whatever it's set to) to help the print stick to the build plate. Exposure time, is the normal layer exposure time that it works at for most of the print.
Depends on your printer. For Creality ones (or at least the Halot One) there are options on the printer as well as the slicer. Most printers are in the slicer itself though.
I gave up on that cone, when I was getting almost all the cones in the success side I would also get cones on the failure side. And if I lower the exposure then less cones would print on the success side
Wish I’d done this before. I’m doing this Sunday after I complete my work and update firmware settings. Question. Should this be done with EVERY bottle of resin you want to n use in the printer? Or just use only for each reading resin type, such as SirayaTech, Eelego?
I'd just do it for every new type of resin or brand. Even if you're using the same brand if you went from Elegoo ABS like to Elegoo water washable, I'd do a test. But if you've got 10 bottles of the same resin once you do a test for the first bottle you don't need to again. Happy printing!
Another question. I downloaded the calibration cones. Will print tint after I update firmware tonight. I know I print in the middle of the plate. Is there a specific orientation of the cube? For example the “Success” side of the cube facing the left side of the printer? ( reference is if I’m in front of the printer looking directly at the printer)
Finish question. You mentioned print speed. I figure we both have similar printer as they’re made by Creality. What setting should I adjust to reduce speed? And to what value? Thank you so very much in advance for answering my questions.
@@troibandy2139 I've just dragged and dropped the cones file into lychee slicer and sliced it after that without adjusting the object at all. As long as you haven't flipped it upstairs down I don't think it'll matter which way it's facing. Double check their PDF guide that came with the file but you should be good.
printed 4 of these following the instructions and have never got the one cone to print properly ever. When i increased the exposure time it got worse so i went back to my original settings that seem ok. Siraya recomends 2.5 and im at 2.7
Not sure what happened. Hopefully the 2.7s you have works well. Table flip Foundry who made the cones also has a master calibration class. That might be helpful m.ruclips.net/video/eWyhtwEoTdU/видео.html
@@Habes Thanks for the link. I found anything over 3.0 seconds the fep pulls the print off the magnetic plate and 2.8 seems to work. Prints are good but the calibration test always fails the one cone it shouldnt.
There can be some anomalies with the results, unfortunately I haven’t encountered them or know what to do. You could increase the exposure and see what happens? What printer, and exposure time are you using?
@@Habes thanks for the reply mate, I'm running the halot one also, last print was at 3.5s but I watched your other video, and its made me realise I made a stupid mistake by not taking of the FEP film when changing over for the first time. so will change it again and do it properly this time. see how that effects results
@@jsig90 ahh just realised you commented on the other video, I'm finally putting two and two together. All the best. I think most resin for our printer will be 3-3.5s a layer with a bit of variation outside that window.
it's astonishing how someone can design an object that if it prints 100% the way it is designed to look... you failed the print lol. like how does this work? if all the cones print the way the object looks in the slicer... then you didn't print the object that was designed. which means theoretically you can make stls of objects and they are "encoded" to print completely different items if you adjust your settings differently. like a high level spy organization would have their printers set to a specific setting and anyone stealing their files would print the wrong items.
Yeah I'm not necessarily sure how the failure side of the cones work but it is a very interesting idea to have prints that have "hidden" information that's only revealed with the right settings.
heheheh. So, I am happy to chime in here and decrypt the magic. It's quite simple really. The higher you expose a part, the thicker it gets. Thicker parts are stronger. The less you expose, the thinner the results. Thinner is weaker. By using this logic, I have designed the cones to fail reliably and intentionally at a certain point. So the fail cones are designed to fail when the strength falls below a certain threshold due to lower exposure. Opposite for the success cones.
Fantastic video man. You did such a good job explaining the process. Keep up the good work!
Thanks heaps for saving me when I first started printing. Thanks for the encouragement, means a lot to have you say that :)
Very helpful and educational! Well done!
Thank you for your kind words Matthew :)
Cones of calibration was super easy to check and very simple criteria to test. I didn't need to tinker with my printer's exposure settings at the end of the day after one print - but having the peace of mind that the settings were appropriate before trying a full scale print, and a prayer - it was nice. Thanks for sharing this vid.
No worries, glad I could help.
Happy Printing :)
Awesome. Can’t wait to try it
I hope it goes well. Glad I could help!
This was super helpful in understanding how to use the cones!
I'm glad it helped :)
Plain and simple, good job 👍
Thanks 👍
awesome video. I'm gonna give it a shot. Thank you.
Hope it goes well!
Great work!
Thanks!
This would be a great tool to test the PET (laminating pouches) hack over FEP sheets. Resorted to using the hack after I destroyed my FEP sheet and wanted to give it a test. Had to dial the exposure up slightly but this test would help push it further. I'm also pretty new to 3D printing so been learning a lot with your vids, great job!
Happy I can help. Thanks for your kind words :)
Good video, thanks!
Thanks 😁
Thanks for this, my first test was 2 seconds which didn't print any cones then I went to 6 seconds and everything printed included the failure cones. I will give 3.2 seconds a shot!
All the best!
Glad I could help!
Commentaries divided into books? Wow. One can only dream of an office like that. Great content! Im still on the fence with 3D printer as i have young kids at home. Hopefully they grow and move out. Lol
Thanks.
I was filming at work before my shift started.
Yeah it’s tricky, you really need a separate space for a resin printer.
Thanks to this video, I was finally able to dial in the exact Exposure setting on my Halot Sky in 4 prints! Now, for some reason. the section of the cones on the success side where the cones touch each in the middle is a thin hairline. So, I'm now playing with my speed settings.
Why would speed settings be relevant?
@@majorair1 some resins with higher viscosity could have thin details or very tiny supports tear due to retraction speeds when the resin flows over them as it pulls the model out of the vat. reducing retract speed will aid in preventing this from occurring though in the case of the cones I see this not being as relevant due to the models design and position. also imo if your having this issue a revision of supports and the model would be recommended since it would put things more in the realm of chance than factors.
Temperature is intrinsically linked to exposure time - it looks like you were pretty cold with a jacket on, I was having more issues despite a good cones of calibration because sometimes it was too cold which can sometimes affect the exposure time needed. Colder temp needs longer exposure
Good video
Yeah that's definitely true. Maybe another 0.2s might have helped with the colder temps.
Thanks Chipko!
Thanks for mentioning this, cold weather+cracking a window for my printer vent is making my craft space COLD
just got my halot one today with some water washable resin. gonna try this!
Awesome man. I had Elegoo water washable and it was about ~3.5s per layer. Hope that might be a goos starting point.
@@Habes i’ll definitely take the advice!
what do you recommend for initial exposure and bottom exposure layers?
@@ImInfinix I can't remember specifically, but it was 35-40s and 6-8 layers. Hopefully that range helps.
@@Habes i’ll start there. thanks man!
The cones of calibration were great for me. The mistake that I made was starting at 2s exposure time and walking up 0.1s at a time. After about five prints, things weren't getting any better, so then I started going up in 1s jumps. It turns out my optimum exposure time is 5s!
So my advice would be to do big leaps first and then narrow it down.
Glad it could help.
Yeah big leaps is good.
5 secs? Shesh. I have a Saturn 8K and mine is set to 1.8 secs. All good cones and I only had 1 or 2 half cones on the fail side. I could probably drop it down a bit more but my words on the top are a little hard to read. Wonder if that's from being over exposed still.
@@JeremyDN It could be. You could also try a test print and see how that goes as well.
I think older printers or ones with less powerful light sources have longer exposure times for layers. 5s was consider an improvement at one stage 😅
Non-mono printers have longer exposure times, same with transparent resins. It can go up to 8 seconds for transparent + older screen type.
You mentioned fine tuning settings. As many RUclipsrs do. But there are no such settings to be found anywhere on this printer. I have the m5s pro. Nowhere can I find any settings on this thing. It prints a couple tenths of a millimeter wider than it does deep. And it prints a couple millimeters shorter than what's in the stl. Don't count on making anything around. Not unless you stretch your STL to make it round. You have to stretch it totally oblong.
for clearity, do you clean the vat between tests ?
Wouldn't want any floating bits from the failed side when going again i reckon
I didn't. From my understanding there's no bits that actually float around for the "failure" side if they don't print.
I could be wrong about, but it didn't (or at least I think it didn't) affect my results.
It’s self cleaning. Failed cones get picked up by the roof of the model.
@@roofoofighter Thanks for clarifying :)
Do the cones of calibration recommend a layer height and bottom exposure time etc as I assume this will also effect the results?
I'm not sure, but I've done it at both 30um and 50um layer height.
lets gooo....
thanks for the hype
Hi, just bought a resin printer and tried to print the Cones Of Calibration. Twice it failed, only the 1st milimiter printed/stucked to the plate. What caused this? Thx
Hey Ricardo, going to need your printer and all your settings. The problem could be a number of things.
Hey man first off, I want to start by saying thank you for this video/tutorial. I just got my first resin printer (photon m3). My first prints so far are trying to calibrate my exposure settings. I am using lychee and just want to make some prints, like you said in the vid. But before I do that, I wanna make sure everything is dialed in the best I can. I have 4 exposure test prints so far ranging from 2.5-2.0 (I am using the default printer settings after adding the printer on the lychee slicer. The only thing I’ve changed is the exposure time. What I’ve noticed is at .1 exposure time between 2.3 and 2.2 is weird is 2.2 okay to still do some prints. (Successful-From left to right the first two cones are barely made. The third one is touching the fourth one almost on the fifth one is touching- on fail Side all have failed ) Was hope just to dial it in enough to get some actual prints. Once again sorry for the “noob questions”
At 2.3 exposure all cones on success side from but also som form on the failure side. Therefore I’m lost :/ once again sorry for the questions & great channel and Awesome Content!!
@@sixnine2818 Thanks so much!!!
The CoC isn't a fool proof test and can have some anomalies. However I think you're probably ok to try test a print.
If it's a little over exposed that's not really a problem. Better than being underexposed.
I looked up your printer and Anycubic suggest between 2-3s depending on the resin. So 2.3s could be worth a try.
All the best.
www.anycubic.com/blogs/news/resin-settings-for-anycubic-3d-printers#photonm3
Thank you, I’m currently in there discord working on there V2 cones I’m trying out some different settings recommended by them. Great Video
So Im using Chitibox, do i adjust the "bottom exposure time" or the "Exposure Time" box?
Exposure time.
Bottom exposure time is for the first 6-10 layers (whatever it's set to) to help the print stick to the build plate.
Exposure time, is the normal layer exposure time that it works at for most of the print.
Where do we change the exposure time? In the slicer or on the printer itself..
Depends on your printer. For Creality ones (or at least the Halot One) there are options on the printer as well as the slicer.
Most printers are in the slicer itself though.
I gave up on that cone, when I was getting almost all the cones in the success side I would also get cones on the failure side. And if I lower the exposure then less cones would print on the success side
It’s good starter tool, but not always the best solution. Do you have a calibration test that you recommend?
@@HabesI'd the classic validation Matrix or Photon's test, faster to print.
Wish I’d done this before. I’m doing this Sunday after I complete my work and update firmware settings.
Question. Should this be done with EVERY bottle of resin you want to n use in the printer? Or just use only for each reading resin type, such as SirayaTech, Eelego?
I'd just do it for every new type of resin or brand.
Even if you're using the same brand if you went from Elegoo ABS like to Elegoo water washable, I'd do a test. But if you've got 10 bottles of the same resin once you do a test for the first bottle you don't need to again.
Happy printing!
@@Habes thank you very much! Looks like I’ll be keeping a spreadsheet to record those different settings for my Creality Halot Sky.:))
Another question. I downloaded the calibration cones. Will print tint after I update firmware tonight. I know I print in the middle of the plate. Is there a specific orientation of the cube? For example the “Success” side of the cube facing the left side of the printer? ( reference is if I’m in front of the printer looking directly at the printer)
Finish question. You mentioned print speed. I figure we both have similar printer as they’re made by Creality. What setting should I adjust to reduce speed? And to what value?
Thank you so very much in advance for answering my questions.
@@troibandy2139 I've just dragged and dropped the cones file into lychee slicer and sliced it after that without adjusting the object at all. As long as you haven't flipped it upstairs down I don't think it'll matter which way it's facing.
Double check their PDF guide that came with the file but you should be good.
❤
printed 4 of these following the instructions and have never got the one cone to print properly ever. When i increased the exposure time it got worse so i went back to my original settings that seem ok. Siraya recomends 2.5 and im at 2.7
Not sure what happened.
Hopefully the 2.7s you have works well.
Table flip Foundry who made the cones also has a master calibration class.
That might be helpful
m.ruclips.net/video/eWyhtwEoTdU/видео.html
@@Habes Thanks for the link. I found anything over 3.0 seconds the fep pulls the print off the magnetic plate and 2.8 seems to work. Prints are good but the calibration test always fails the one cone it shouldnt.
You look like you're recording in a Barnes & Noble.
🤣 I filmed this before my morning shift at the office.
@@Habes Do you work at a Barnes & Noble?
@@tonyennis1787 nah, our office just has a lot of books
Is it necessary put supports in the figure?
Yeah, most models will need supports to print.
@@Habes And wich size do you recommend to print that figure?
@@elpinchealdo9011 Everything in the video is printed at its original size.
Need supports?
Nah prints without them
I'm a bit lost with this, I have partial print on both sides so sort of contradicts itself
There can be some anomalies with the results, unfortunately I haven’t encountered them or know what to do.
You could increase the exposure and see what happens?
What printer, and exposure time are you using?
@@Habes thanks for the reply mate, I'm running the halot one also, last print was at 3.5s but I watched your other video, and its made me realise I made a stupid mistake by not taking of the FEP film when changing over for the first time. so will change it again and do it properly this time. see how that effects results
@@jsig90 ahh just realised you commented on the other video, I'm finally putting two and two together.
All the best.
I think most resin for our printer will be 3-3.5s a layer with a bit of variation outside that window.
Someone will sponsor you😎
Was that a prediction?
it's astonishing how someone can design an object that if it prints 100% the way it is designed to look... you failed the print lol. like how does this work? if all the cones print the way the object looks in the slicer... then you didn't print the object that was designed. which means theoretically you can make stls of objects and they are "encoded" to print completely different items if you adjust your settings differently. like a high level spy organization would have their printers set to a specific setting and anyone stealing their files would print the wrong items.
Yeah I'm not necessarily sure how the failure side of the cones work but it is a very interesting idea to have prints that have "hidden" information that's only revealed with the right settings.
heheheh. So, I am happy to chime in here and decrypt the magic.
It's quite simple really. The higher you expose a part, the thicker it gets. Thicker parts are stronger. The less you expose, the thinner the results. Thinner is weaker.
By using this logic, I have designed the cones to fail reliably and intentionally at a certain point. So the fail cones are designed to fail when the strength falls below a certain threshold due to lower exposure. Opposite for the success cones.