Swap the hubs to the opposite side on the steering, then it'll be like F1 steering. The outside wheel turns further than the inside wheel(anti- Ackerman) then reposition the steering box further back and up to where you can have them attach in the rear after you swap the hubs
I get super stoked every time I see an update to this series, keep it up! You're out here giving me a false sense of confidence that I could do this myself someday haha
@@Boostedlifestyle curious what your plan for the body is? you can find used Formula 1000 bodies on the internet. maybe chop up one that is a lil worse for wear to make it fit your build.
@@Boostedlifestyle curious what your plan for the body is? you can find used Formula 1000 bodies on the internet. maybe chop up one that is a lil worse for wear to make it fit your build.
I know, right? This is the best current RUclips series, and it's just a guy having an idea and just winging it. I love this. Fantastic. I really hope this is a huge success that leads to tons of fun, and not, "Dave Groel Lookalike Crashes Homemade F1 Car 1st Time Out." Part of the fun is knowing I would absolutely destroy myself first time driving one of these things. That's if I could ever get as far as he's gotten so far, which I couldn't. It's just brilliant.
In all f1 cars the outer wheel usually turn more than the inner wheel, because the weight goes outwards and gives more grip to the outer wheel allowing it to turn tighter. Excellent series!!!!
@@wimvandesteeg1353 actually every car has the Ackerman steering, in witch the inner wheel steers more than the outer. I'm describing exactly the opposite, the anti Ackerman steering and why it is used in F1 cars.
@@wimvandesteeg1353 no, everything other than single seaters have the exact opposite. They also gave the exactly correct reason why. With more load on the outside tire, the tire can turn more before starting to slip. Non race cars have the opposite setup because in normal driving there isn’t much weight transfer so the steering is set up to make the inside tire turn more because it’s taking a tighter line than the outside tire, same reason for a rear differential
Not true they run both anti Ackerman and Ackerman the number is adjustable dependent on the track they run. Just like all racecars. If for example he wanted to run this car on a circle track turning left he would want Ackerman due to the delta between the inner and outer radius of the corner. The inner wheel would need to turn more then the outer wheel. It’s a moot point as this vehicle has no Ackerman built in. He’s using stock spindles with identical geometry.
Love the work! Just wanted to mention, have you given much thought to the suspension geometry. On screen it looks very vertically loaded, which will mean the rear will squat under acceleration, and the front will dive under braking. To avoid this. the top wishbone should attach to the chassis a few inches forward of the lower wishbone at the front, and a few inches back of the lower at the back. Also the front hubs don't seem to have any castor angle. This angle encourages the wheels to want to straighten up and without this angle, the steering will be terrifyingly jittery and positively dangerous at speed. If you draw an imaginary line through the top knuckle joint, through the bottom knuckle joint to the floor. The point where the line touches the floor should be 4 or 5 inches ahead of the tyre's contact patch, (dead bottom of the tyre.) Without these geometry considerations, your racer will be a real handful up to maybe 70mph, and pretty much undriveable above that. So you have an email address or somewhere I can send diagrams?
outer wheel turning more = reverse ackermann. In road cars you generally want it the other way around, as your inner tire follows a smaller circle than your outer tire. However, some Formula cars actually have it reversed as the loads on the outside tire is so high that the effective turning circle is bigger than your steering input (slip angle). tl;dr For your car I would advise it to have normal ackermann, so inside wheel turning more. Check how the steering rack is mounted on the Miata, it could be as simple as swapping the knuckles from side to side and moving the steering rack behind your front axle.
This is the actual way they are on the Miata from the factory. I should probably measure the deg it turns from side to side to get accurate information
The brakes are probably a bit too heavily front biased coming from an approximately 50/50 balanced car. If you can find a larger rear brake setup it'd probably give you more stopping power. Alternatively a dual master pedal setup will allow you to patch that. I encourage you to check out Suspensions Explained's video on the ideal brake curve and brake sizing.
We used to use old cam, crank and oil pump gears (for chain drive) to use when pressing bearings and seals into housings. Get a variety from a wrecking yard and you’ll be set.
This is one of the most underrated channels on RUclips. Keep it up bro, you're killing it! Just curious, are you going to turbo the engine or anything? I'm sure you probably mentioned your plans in another video but I must have missed it.
Swap your spindles left to right and steer from the rear of center. I know, you'll need a new rack, but it is the better option to correct your ackerman.
@Boosted Lifestyle yes you could but to be honest that little rack is going to do well to not bust the case regardless where you move it. It may last a bit but I wouldn't want my life dependent on that dinky of a rack. Seen many of them bust on much smaller vehicles. Not knocking your build at all. Just would hate to see you get hurt . Check out" rather B welding" most recent video. He is actually working on the fromt end of a home build mini trophy truck and doing alot of the same stuff your working in in this video. Lots of good info about Ackerman and some other optiin on racks. Food for thought
That's like the worst rod ends in bending situation I've ever seen. It's unsafe. Rod ends should transfer force in the axis of the threads (compression/tension). If they are loaded in bending, then each thread acts as a stress raiser. Find a local machinist. Ask him to make spherical bearing sockets and weld those instead. Formula Student cars fail tech inspection if they use rod ends like this.
The rear end lower control arms, raise the rear mount 3 inches up the frame keeping the front location static "rear lower A-arms", thus the A-arm bar needs to be extended a little... so the wheels toe in under heavy loading "cornering". might have to do it to the upper arms on the rear end too.
1.5 inch up on the rear, 1.5 down on the front... lowers the track width keeping the arms the same length... creates a soft active toe adjustment in suspension travel. compression toes in decompression toes out pulling the rear end into the corner "1 to 3 degrees @ 155 is a big deal"
under full compression the rear of the rear A-arm is flat with the ground, under full decompression the front of the rear A-arm is flat with the ground... where ever the mounts go, maximum toe game.
not a technical engineer, but anti Ackermann is the prefered state, since its scrubs the tires more to generate more heat for the tires. So the inner one is supposed to scrub more, the outer one to turn in harsher.
Super dope build and it’s really admirable! Please consider adding some triangulations to the side members of your chassis for safety… those T joints will not stand during impact should the worst happen.
That’s the shock for a Chinese 125 pit bike if you spend a bit more you can get the shock for Chinese 250 dirt bike. They are adjustable height, adjustable damping and you can add air pressure like a tire to make it stiffer. Under a 100$ Canadian each.
Move the rack forward on the chassis for better ackerman steering, that will make the outside tire turn sharper into the turn for better control since that is where the weight is going to be.
The Ackerman is correct from the angle I saw. Inside wheel steers tighter than outer due to the relevant diameters of the circle. on paper strike a line from the center of the rear axle through the steering pivot of the wheel. King pin, ball joint, etc. The tie rod end should be on the line, in front or behind the steering pivot. The Ackerman will be off by the amount of length added to the wheelbase over the Miata wheelbase.
A plate won't save you from those wishbones. Put some anti intrusion bars on the wishbones. Just a bar from the front leg to the rear leg close to the joints. If the wishbone becomes disconnected, the bar will hit the chassis and stop it coming in.
Great episode! You should make PDF with all measurements and instructions. Then sell it online cause if someone, decides to start the same project, doesn't have to make the same mistakes as you have made 😃
That would be a tonne of work for him. Since he's building this as he goes. There is no grand blueprint. Also there are designs out there made by professionals which in many metrics can be classified as better
You have the correct kind or Ackerman angle. When cornering there is more weight on the outside wheel because of weight transfer and so it can handle more angle before it slips. Will help with maintaining quicker cornering speeds! Road cars do the opposite because it is more economical as less resistance
You want to move your rack length out to match up with where your A arms pivot so that you don't get lengthening through your suspension travel. Help eliminate bump steer.
Have the steering arms towards the rear is how to set up proper akerman. With the steering arms forward, you'll want to shorten them and move out towards the rotor as far as well can.
Just a heads up, those rear calipers have to be adjusted manually. I've seen so many people ruin them trying to press the piston in with clamps or return them thinking they are defective. There is an adjuster under the 14mm bolt on the back side of the caliper.
Adjusting that also adjusts the drag on the caliper and can affect brake bias, tightening or loosening the caliper adjustment. You can even set them to drag one side more than another for different tracks. Old spec miata trick for clockwise vs counter clockwise tracks. Adjust the primarily inside caliper slightly tighter than outside to induce a slight slip angle during trail braking.
Outside tire in the turn has to travel farther than the inside tire, your tire angle should make it to where they travel around the apex at the same rate just in their own arch. Hope that makes sense. Like a big circle and a small circle, if they both turned at the same rate you are pushing or dragging one giving you over and understeer. Best of luck coming along great! Oh one more thing put an X in the front of the chassis triangulation will add a ton of stiffness 👍
This thing is gonna be a hoot when it's done. The only thing that sticks out as odd to me is how wide the front control arm mounting points are, but everything seems to clear fine 👍
Your at about the sane weight as the fully completed GWR Raptors which are carbon monocoque, so it's a damn good weight so far considering you've built a steel chassis! Cheers. Leigh.
You might want to take that middle cross bar, where the steering wheel is, and make a bent tube that connects to the top of the main rail and bend it up and over to the other side. That way you have room for everything including your knee bones. It makes for a great dash area and puts some style into the build
The top of the steering wheel should be at nose height more or less. The previous seat position was good, just raise the bar and the steering column. This way you can also increase your side protection bars height too.
Fyi if you mount your rack in a way that allows your tierods to follow the angle of the lower control arm. Then you will have minimal bump steer thru the suspension travel
No surprise the Miata knuckles clear 13s. The original Miata was released not long after manufacturers started phasing out 13 inch wheels and thus the only thing stopping you from it WOULD be the brakes.
Build looks amazing 👏 that front looks a little weird on the eye because of the width of it compared to the back, just take your time with it and it will come together.
I'd suggest moving the front suspention further forward infront of your feet and not so far apart....You don't want that trailing arm aimed at your torso in case of a crash.
Internal vanes of a vented rotor should face the rear of the car. Pay no attention to the slots they can go either way depending on manufacturer design.
That's the same steering rack I have on my Formula 1000 car. It'll work fine. You should have anti-intrusion bars on the A-arms, or at least the front uppers so they don't stab you in a crash. It's just a tube that connects the two legs of the "A" near the chassis mounts.
Just started watching this series and am enjoying it - thanks. Comments for you to consider - you will need a universal joint in the steering shaft so that in an accident (hopefully never) the shaft does not spear you in the chest. You will also need some chassis strong points for the seat belt harness (4 point mounting) , your roll bar looks too flimsy (tube diameter too small and insufficiently braced fore and aft) certainly for UK race competition. Carry on the good work
Dang, came to see car stuff and got to see a gun show too! Looks like you've trimmed down and added quite a bit of muscle mass. Looking good man! 💪 Love the project, can't wait to see it on the track.
😍love your progress… … the inner wheel have to turn more !!!! If not you will have bad or dangerous cornering!!! Take ur time with it. My prof at the university always said, it is better to choose where to crash instead of the speed 😉
it depends, on performance open-wheelers (Like F1) they use anti-ackerman. So the outer wheels turns more than the inner wheel. Thats more efficient since when cornering in open-wheel single seater theres a huge weight transfer to the outer wheel (inner wheel barely grips to the ground). Since you have more grip on the outer wheel, anti-ackerman is used. and it provides better tyre wear. But remember, this is not used on normal cars, its pretty much only on open-wheelers
Using a rod-end on the end of A-arm can be dangerous. Neck of rod-end can be bend or break while hard braking. I suggest to use spherical plain bearing.
You wouldn't happen to know how they do the wait-list would you? Is it like Hot Rod Drag Week where you show up and hope enough registered people don't show up so you can get in?
You really need to get some cross members over the top of the 1st and 2nd bulkheads. That thing will fold up the first time you try to go around a corner.
Right now you have ackermann geometry, less tyre deg but worse grip, in f1 they use a pretty extreme anti ackermann, you should aim for a modest amount of anti ackermann geometry, so you need to extend the control arms length (without adding toe, so you need to redesign the mounting point)
I was thinking about this and with regular car tires and not 2 tons of downforce I would try to aim for neutral ackermann. Parallel steer would probably split the difference with the load that this car is going to have.
I didn't see, if your front hub mounts are 90 degrees from horizontal if so you are making a mistake, they should have a .10 degree vertical axis tilt back to increase the contact area of your front tires when you turn the steering wheel.
Swap the hubs to the opposite side on the steering, then it'll be like F1 steering. The outside wheel turns further than the inside wheel(anti- Ackerman) then reposition the steering box further back and up to where you can have them attach in the rear after you swap the hubs
reduces tyre wear on the front wheels as well
Not a pro, but isn’t anti Ackerman only used for tight tracks like Monaco and does increase the tyre wear since there isn’t an ICR?
@@david11221 anti-ackerman is used in the entirety of F1.
the setup already is anti-ackerman. no need to change
@@MustafaKhan-hz5mr wrong
I get super stoked every time I see an update to this series, keep it up! You're out here giving me a false sense of confidence that I could do this myself someday haha
Man I'm just winging this 🤣
@@Boostedlifestyle curious what your plan for the body is? you can find used Formula 1000 bodies on the internet. maybe chop up one that is a lil worse for wear to make it fit your build.
@@Boostedlifestyle curious what your plan for the body is? you can find used Formula 1000 bodies on the internet. maybe chop up one that is a lil worse for wear to make it fit your build.
I know, right? This is the best current RUclips series, and it's just a guy having an idea and just winging it. I love this. Fantastic. I really hope this is a huge success that leads to tons of fun, and not, "Dave Groel Lookalike Crashes Homemade F1 Car 1st Time Out." Part of the fun is knowing I would absolutely destroy myself first time driving one of these things. That's if I could ever get as far as he's gotten so far, which I couldn't. It's just brilliant.
best series on youtube right now
In all f1 cars the outer wheel usually turn more than the inner wheel, because the weight goes outwards and gives more grip to the outer wheel allowing it to turn tighter. Excellent series!!!!
every vehicle has that, its called Ackerman steering, your point why...well, makes NO sense🙃
@@wimvandesteeg1353 I mean, it does make sense, he just described weight transfer...
@@wimvandesteeg1353 actually every car has the Ackerman steering, in witch the inner wheel steers more than the outer. I'm describing exactly the opposite, the anti Ackerman steering and why it is used in F1 cars.
@@wimvandesteeg1353 no, everything other than single seaters have the exact opposite. They also gave the exactly correct reason why. With more load on the outside tire, the tire can turn more before starting to slip. Non race cars have the opposite setup because in normal driving there isn’t much weight transfer so the steering is set up to make the inside tire turn more because it’s taking a tighter line than the outside tire, same reason for a rear differential
Not true they run both anti Ackerman and Ackerman the number is adjustable dependent on the track they run. Just like all racecars. If for example he wanted to run this car on a circle track turning left he would want Ackerman due to the delta between the inner and outer radius of the corner. The inner wheel would need to turn more then the outer wheel. It’s a moot point as this vehicle has no Ackerman built in. He’s using stock spindles with identical geometry.
This project is so damn cool man! Love to see it come to life bit by bit, cheers!
Those new wheels look really good on it
Love the work! Just wanted to mention, have you given much thought to the suspension geometry. On screen it looks very vertically loaded, which will mean the rear will squat under acceleration, and the front will dive under braking. To avoid this. the top wishbone should attach to the chassis a few inches forward of the lower wishbone at the front, and a few inches back of the lower at the back.
Also the front hubs don't seem to have any castor angle. This angle encourages the wheels to want to straighten up and without this angle, the steering will be terrifyingly jittery and positively dangerous at speed. If you draw an imaginary line through the top knuckle joint, through the bottom knuckle joint to the floor. The point where the line touches the floor should be 4 or 5 inches ahead of the tyre's contact patch, (dead bottom of the tyre.)
Without these geometry considerations, your racer will be a real handful up to maybe 70mph, and pretty much undriveable above that.
So you have an email address or somewhere I can send diagrams?
the tie rod inners (rack end) need to pivot at the same spot as the control arms or you'll get bump steer. yours are more inboard.
Mount the rack parallel with the lower control arm. And shim the spindle so the tie rod follows the same plane when the suspension travels.
i absolutely love this series
outer wheel turning more = reverse ackermann. In road cars you generally want it the other way around, as your inner tire follows a smaller circle than your outer tire. However, some Formula cars actually have it reversed as the loads on the outside tire is so high that the effective turning circle is bigger than your steering input (slip angle).
tl;dr
For your car I would advise it to have normal ackermann, so inside wheel turning more. Check how the steering rack is mounted on the Miata, it could be as simple as swapping the knuckles from side to side and moving the steering rack behind your front axle.
This is the actual way they are on the Miata from the factory. I should probably measure the deg it turns from side to side to get accurate information
The brakes are probably a bit too heavily front biased coming from an approximately 50/50 balanced car. If you can find a larger rear brake setup it'd probably give you more stopping power. Alternatively a dual master pedal setup will allow you to patch that. I encourage you to check out Suspensions Explained's video on the ideal brake curve and brake sizing.
This is bloody fantastic mate. Really loving the build.
We used to use old cam, crank and oil pump gears (for chain drive) to use when pressing bearings and seals into housings. Get a variety from a wrecking yard and you’ll be set.
This is one of the most underrated channels on RUclips. Keep it up bro, you're killing it!
Just curious, are you going to turbo the engine or anything? I'm sure you probably mentioned your plans in another video but I must have missed it.
Swap your spindles left to right and steer from the rear of center. I know, you'll need a new rack, but it is the better option to correct your ackerman.
Why would he need a new rack?
I could flip the rack and it would work also
@@steffentysnes5302 because the steering action would be reversed.
@Boosted Lifestyle yes you could but to be honest that little rack is going to do well to not bust the case regardless where you move it. It may last a bit but I wouldn't want my life dependent on that dinky of a rack. Seen many of them bust on much smaller vehicles. Not knocking your build at all. Just would hate to see you get hurt . Check out" rather B welding" most recent video. He is actually working on the fromt end of a home build mini trophy truck and doing alot of the same stuff your working in in this video. Lots of good info about Ackerman and some other optiin on racks. Food for thought
Love this series! First found your Channel because
this project!
That's like the worst rod ends in bending situation I've ever seen. It's unsafe. Rod ends should transfer force in the axis of the threads (compression/tension). If they are loaded in bending, then each thread acts as a stress raiser. Find a local machinist. Ask him to make spherical bearing sockets and weld those instead. Formula Student cars fail tech inspection if they use rod ends like this.
The rear end lower control arms, raise the rear mount 3 inches up the frame keeping the front location static "rear lower A-arms", thus the A-arm bar needs to be extended a little... so the wheels toe in under heavy loading "cornering". might have to do it to the upper arms on the rear end too.
1.5 inch up on the rear, 1.5 down on the front... lowers the track width keeping the arms the same length... creates a soft active toe adjustment in suspension travel. compression toes in decompression toes out pulling the rear end into the corner "1 to 3 degrees @ 155 is a big deal"
under full compression the rear of the rear A-arm is flat with the ground, under full decompression the front of the rear A-arm is flat with the ground... where ever the mounts go, maximum toe game.
Looks awesome sitting on the ground with the wheels
Loving the series....... can't get enough
not a technical engineer, but anti Ackermann is the prefered state, since its scrubs the tires more to generate more heat for the tires. So the inner one is supposed to scrub more, the outer one to turn in harsher.
Really Like This Build... Wish you was working on the Fox Body more.. Can't wait to hear that Hemi fire 🔥 up!!!!!
In case you didn't know freezing the bearings and the spindle will shrink them and make it a lot easier to press them in
i am so pumped for that 5.7 build!!!
Super dope build and it’s really admirable! Please consider adding some triangulations to the side members of your chassis for safety… those T joints will not stand during impact should the worst happen.
this is gonna be sick mate. cant wait for the next vid.
Can’t wait to see the suspension and tires on this thing
Wow with the wheels on it it really looks like something it looks sooo sick
I would say you want a wider rear than front,
Keep up the good work!
So sick love watching this project come together!
That’s the shock for a Chinese 125 pit bike if you spend a bit more you can get the shock for Chinese 250 dirt bike. They are adjustable height, adjustable damping and you can add air pressure like a tire to make it stiffer. Under a 100$ Canadian each.
Move the rack forward on the chassis for better ackerman steering, that will make the outside tire turn sharper into the turn for better control since that is where the weight is going to be.
The Ackerman is correct from the angle I saw. Inside wheel steers tighter than outer due to the relevant diameters of the circle. on paper strike a line from the center of the rear axle through the steering pivot of the wheel. King pin, ball joint, etc. The tie rod end should be on the line, in front or behind the steering pivot. The Ackerman will be off by the amount of length added to the wheelbase over the Miata wheelbase.
They look like they would be directional but as long as they have a good finish on them the rotors can be mounted on either side.
A plate won't save you from those wishbones. Put some anti intrusion bars on the wishbones. Just a bar from the front leg to the rear leg close to the joints. If the wishbone becomes disconnected, the bar will hit the chassis and stop it coming in.
Kyle you rock! Love the F1 build so far! Peace easy and get that v!
I'd love to see a home-built open-wheel race weekend someplace famous, with a few basic classes.
Great episode! You should make PDF with all measurements and instructions. Then sell it online cause if someone, decides to start the same project, doesn't have to make the same mistakes as you have made 😃
If I were him, there's no way I'd do that. Giving instructions might make him liable. It'd be really cool to do what he's doing though, wouldn't it?
That would be a tonne of work for him. Since he's building this as he goes. There is no grand blueprint. Also there are designs out there made by professionals which in many metrics can be classified as better
The disks being that way makes since. Throwing the dust outwards instead of towards the center
You have the correct kind or Ackerman angle.
When cornering there is more weight on the outside wheel because of weight transfer and so it can handle more angle before it slips.
Will help with maintaining quicker cornering speeds!
Road cars do the opposite because it is more economical as less resistance
You want to move your rack length out to match up with where your A arms pivot so that you don't get lengthening through your suspension travel. Help eliminate bump steer.
I also took this into account I just didn't know how to build extensions on the rack so I was going to keep it like this for now
The inner tires do take a shorter route when turning. So the angle should be greater on the inner turning tire
Have the steering arms towards the rear is how to set up proper akerman. With the steering arms forward, you'll want to shorten them and move out towards the rotor as far as well can.
The direction of the slots and holes in the rotor don’t matter , it’s direction of the fins inside the rotor that determines its direction
Just a heads up, those rear calipers have to be adjusted manually. I've seen so many people ruin them trying to press the piston in with clamps or return them thinking they are defective. There is an adjuster under the 14mm bolt on the back side of the caliper.
That's actually very valuable information
You are 💯 correct. Several videos on RUclips on how to adjust them as well.
Adjusting that also adjusts the drag on the caliper and can affect brake bias, tightening or loosening the caliper adjustment.
You can even set them to drag one side more than another for different tracks.
Old spec miata trick for clockwise vs counter clockwise tracks.
Adjust the primarily inside caliper slightly tighter than outside to induce a slight slip angle during trail braking.
You dude inspire me a lot, i wanna do stuff like you when i get my mechanical engineering degree hopefully
Outside tire in the turn has to travel farther than the inside tire, your tire angle should make it to where they travel around the apex at the same rate just in their own arch. Hope that makes sense. Like a big circle and a small circle, if they both turned at the same rate you are pushing or dragging one giving you over and understeer. Best of luck coming along great! Oh one more thing put an X in the front of the chassis triangulation will add a ton of stiffness 👍
Yeah I didn't add all my bracing yet. Also thanks for the info that makes total sense
@@Boostedlifestyle The new Formula 1 Tech Trends video shows the Ferrari without the nosecone, you can see the pushrod steering actuators.
This thing is gonna be a hoot when it's done. The only thing that sticks out as odd to me is how wide the front control arm mounting points are, but everything seems to clear fine 👍
The upper control arm mounts are wayyyyy to low, hello body roll.
I love your formula one and build it looks class
I was the first like
Your at about the sane weight as the fully completed GWR Raptors which are carbon monocoque, so it's a damn good weight so far considering you've built a steel chassis! Cheers. Leigh.
You might want to take that middle cross bar, where the steering wheel is, and make a bent tube that connects to the top of the main rail and bend it up and over to the other side. That way you have room for everything including your knee bones. It makes for a great dash area and puts some style into the build
The top of the steering wheel should be at nose height more or less. The previous seat position was good, just raise the bar and the steering column. This way you can also increase your side protection bars height too.
Just made my day so much better thank you Kyle ❤
Our freshly pieced cut of pipe! That cracked me up 🤣
Really enjoying this build keep up the good work 😎
For some reason youtube didn't recommend me this video, idk what happened but i had to come to your channel directly to watch it
Coming along nicely. If you bring out the elbow grease you might make it to Bahrain for pre-season testing on thursday
letting your inner wheel turn more than the outter wheel is really good on a racecar !
Fyi if you mount your rack in a way that allows your tierods to follow the angle of the lower control arm. Then you will have minimal bump steer thru the suspension travel
No surprise the Miata knuckles clear 13s. The original Miata was released not long after manufacturers started phasing out 13 inch wheels and thus the only thing stopping you from it WOULD be the brakes.
Build looks amazing 👏 that front looks a little weird on the eye because of the width of it compared to the back, just take your time with it and it will come together.
That looks mad
Already looking more like an F1000 car
Enjoy your vids, keep it up buddy!
I'd suggest moving the front suspention further forward infront of your feet and not so far apart....You don't want that trailing arm aimed at your torso in case of a crash.
Next "giveaway car" ?? :) I love it!
Internal vanes of a vented rotor should face the rear of the car. Pay no attention to the slots they can go either way depending on manufacturer design.
That's the same steering rack I have on my Formula 1000 car. It'll work fine. You should have anti-intrusion bars on the A-arms, or at least the front uppers so they don't stab you in a crash. It's just a tube that connects the two legs of the "A" near the chassis mounts.
I was actually planning on adding them just for extra strength
Where can I find this Steering rack? Im actually looking for one similar to this for my golf cart front suspension build. Thanks!
Just started watching this series and am enjoying it - thanks. Comments for you to consider - you will need a universal joint in the steering shaft so that in an accident (hopefully never) the shaft does not spear you in the chest. You will also need some chassis strong points for the seat belt harness (4 point mounting) , your roll bar looks too flimsy (tube diameter too small and insufficiently braced fore and aft) certainly for UK race competition. Carry on the good work
Holes and slot direction only matters if the vent vanes aren’t straight.
Nice to see that it´s not just me that has to clean before i work 😅
Dang, came to see car stuff and got to see a gun show too! Looks like you've trimmed down and added quite a bit of muscle mass. Looking good man! 💪
Love the project, can't wait to see it on the track.
If you make a couple of suspension parts like in RC cars, you won't even need to buy an adjustable shock absorbers.
Hell Yeah Brother. Keep up the Great Content!!!
the akerman angle looks good to me!
Love all your videos! Glad people been commenting on your nad stabber setup on the front end. lol
And I'm sure you know that the rack placement is a huge difference if it's wrong for bump steer
😍love your progress…
… the inner wheel have to turn more !!!!
If not you will have bad or dangerous cornering!!! Take ur time with it. My prof at the university always said, it is better to choose where to crash instead of the speed 😉
it depends, on performance open-wheelers (Like F1) they use anti-ackerman. So the outer wheels turns more than the inner wheel. Thats more efficient since when cornering in open-wheel single seater theres a huge weight transfer to the outer wheel (inner wheel barely grips to the ground). Since you have more grip on the outer wheel, anti-ackerman is used. and it provides better tyre wear. But remember, this is not used on normal cars, its pretty much only on open-wheelers
@@kirouacmichael thanks, i didn‘t know that
This also means the inner wheel gets heated through the friction
ruclips.net/video/cxI1TB_6Q-M/видео.html short and good video… learning never stops 😍 love this community
the "little boy pretending to be in a race car"- part went dark real quick XDXDXD
Using a rod-end on the end of A-arm can be dangerous. Neck of rod-end can be bend or break while hard braking. I suggest to use spherical plain bearing.
Before pressing the bearing in, throw it in the freezer for a day. Sometimes no press needed
Hopefully we see you at Sick Summer! We're wait-listed so hopefully we get in!
You wouldn't happen to know how they do the wait-list would you? Is it like Hot Rod Drag Week where you show up and hope enough registered people don't show up so you can get in?
2:00 "our freshly piece cut of pipe" great english😂😂
Looking amazing!! Engines going to be under powered though, definitely going to need a turbo set up
Good catch on negative man
Flipping the heim joints vertically should solve your travel/binding issue.
How long until part 9 man
track width is measured from the center of the tire. Yes, the front is better to be wider than the rear.
You really need to get some cross members over the top of the 1st and 2nd bulkheads. That thing will fold up the first time you try to go around a corner.
It's coming I didn't put and bracing along the chassis get either
I hope you're adding more cross braces on the perimeter frame
You're going to have bump steer, and the ends of the rack with joints should lie on the plane defined by the 4 inboard wishbone joints.
What what’s the second set of wheels you stuck on and how much to they weigh.
Damn, almost making me want to sell my Miata BBK that I have on my Beetle so I can run a 13" wheel too haha.
Right now you have ackermann geometry, less tyre deg but worse grip, in f1 they use a pretty extreme anti ackermann, you should aim for a modest amount of anti ackermann geometry, so you need to extend the control arms length (without adding toe, so you need to redesign the mounting point)
No wait from the front perspective it looked this way, but you said the outer tyre turns more, so you’re good as it is
I was thinking about this and with regular car tires and not 2 tons of downforce I would try to aim for neutral ackermann. Parallel steer would probably split the difference with the load that this car is going to have.
Lovely work 👏🏿 👌 👍
Make sure you check for bump steer
Looks cool as hell!
Kyle, Its really starting to look awesome, You must be getting excited for some "Alley testing"!! 👍 #BuiltByBo
I didn't see, if your front hub mounts are 90 degrees from horizontal if so you are making a mistake, they should have a .10 degree vertical axis tilt back to increase the contact area of your front tires when you turn the steering wheel.
Inner wheel is turning more than outer. That is classic Ackerman. You want that.