My DSL is giving me fits today but I got to see most of the video. I'll come back for the rest. This is, by far, one of the best videos you have ever done. I simply love this machine and the TLC you give it is well deserved. This was the kind of machine I used to dream about as a kid! If I had one, I would have surely completely worn it out... Excellent work both on the Sony and the video.
This is a great video and thank you for sharing. I have a Sony-O-Matic TC-106 that originally belonged to my late grandmother. As far as I know, she purchased the TC-106 sometime between 1968-1970. Since my grandmother's death in 2012, I have acquired her Sony TC-106 and it is in remarkable condition! Cosmetically and functionally it is in near mint condition and I tried playing it just last night and it still seems to play and sound very well, other than some humming and tape "slag" when it's in rewind.
Much appreciated your video, which confirmed my findings that Sony lubed their units with a grease that "freezes up" over the years. Just finished completely restoring my Sony TC-570;. AND just as you pointed out both brake arms were essentially froze up! PLUS, the elbow of the capstan drive wheel arm was froze solid! (Wheel would not even touch the capstan!) After removing and soaking it, finally got it working. FYI, I use a light weight synthetic oil -- a sewing machine type oil. And NOW a tape I made probably 30+ years ago from the ol' record player is filling our home with Christmas music once again!
+PastorBruceKramer Thanks for sharing your experience. And congratulations on your restoration! "Gluebricant" was a common problem for many of the 1960s manufacturers, along with "melted belt syndrome", "plastic wire jacket burn" and the occasionally "wire insulation poweder-ification" (This mostly affected Italian machines by Geloso). These were all chemical issues that took DECADES to develop because they were the result of pollution and oxygen exposure that happened over far more years than the machines were designed to "live". It is a testament to the engineers and designers that their work has lasted so long (even with these issues), and continues to give pleasure and inspiration to others, not to mention a small fortune to some e-bay sellers who strategically overprice their finds!
Very comprehensive. You have laid it all out logically in a cohesive and digestible manner. I learned a number of things that I will keep in mind as I begin work on my TC-355. Thanks, again for an enjoyable tutorial.
As always, your meticulousness sets the RUclips standard for tape recorder restoration videos. I've got almost a year's worth of tape recorder collecting that is awaiting my attention and your videos are great references to get me started on my projects.
Good job on the repair and clean up on a vintage piece of an audio recorder. These were made back when quality and reliability was paramount. Sony products back then were distributed through Superscope of Los Angeles California. These were also made in Japan. The only concern about these old recorders would be with the recording heads. If badly worn, play back would sound muddy, garbled with lost higher frequency response. Much like if the heads were dirty and needed to be cleaned.
I really enjoyed the video. Thanks for taking the time to do this. I have a Sony TC-399 that I am trying to get working again. I think I need to do the entire lube job on the parts.
Thanks for the video. I'm starting to clean an old Sony TC-355. Considering the age, it's clean however there is no movement in the pinch roller or capstan so this video will be very helpful since it seems Sony used very similar mechanisms in most of these early units. I'm going to use Super Lube, an excellent silicon grease after cleaning all the shafts & pivot points with alcohol and q-tips. Can't wait to start now!
you did a fantastic job as usual restoring your Sony.I don`t know if my favorite part of restoring a piece of machinery is replacing the caps and dead electrical components, or cleaning all the gunk off the mechanical parts and seeing them gleem and shiny and properly relubed again. When you get a tape recorders working again it just makes you feel like Gene Wilder in Young Frankenstein saying ....it`s alive,.....It`s Alive...IT`S ALIVE!!!!!!
Another great interesting video! Very nice machine. Sounds great even through YT audio. You can really hear the difference in the audio quality between the recording speeds. Not so much when doing voice recordings at the different speeds. BTW, Hope you are doing well.
Thank you. Am currently trying to figure out why a TC-108 Capstan wasn't turning and I realise, thanks to you, that the rubber flywheel that drives it isn't fully engaging. Back into the depths I go . . . Much appreciated, that man!
+The Gods Right-Hand Man Hi, I recommend you do what I did in the video and get some Marvel Mystery Oil (you can get it at many auto, hardware stores and Amazon.com) and an injection oiler (a syringe with a long nose so you can be very precise in oiling. Marvel is a cleaning lubricant made for the stubborn sludge that builds up in car engines. SONY tape recorders suffer from "glubrication" where the grease they used oxidizes and turns into a varnish, thus sticking the parts and making them sluggish or not mobile at all. A drop or two of Marvel Mystery Oil on all greased joints will re-liquefy the grease over a short time and keep it fresh.
+clydesight Woohoo! She Lives! I disassembled the Capstan Drive-Wheel and found that the swinging arm it sits on was "glued" solid. Unstuck, cleaned & lubed same and she's running good as new. Thanks again, Mr. Clyde x
you're a total master!! here in my country (chile) it seems that nobody knows how to repair well these machines... so i'm learning from your video to repair my sony tc-105 which is very similar to the model you are fixing here. mine is working, but plays at a lower pitch. thanks!!! greetings from chile
+lesquatrecentscoups Thanks for watching the video! The Sony 105 is a fine machine and uses many of the same or similar parts and designs as the 106A It sounds like you simply need to change the motor run capacitor. What is the electrical system in Chile? (i.e. here in the US it is 110 volts at 60 cycles) If it is different, then you just need to install a motor run capacitor for your country's voltage and cycles. If your machine was made for your country (not purchased in the US and brought to Chile), the old capacitor will tell you the proper microfarad rating. If Chile uses the same system as the US, then I have the answer in a video. See my follow up video to this one: ruclips.net/video/eoV2ae9mCeU/видео.html Good luck!
thanks man. i found the MP capacitor and i will replace it. i have a question i think you are the only who can answers, there is any way to assign a knob or pot to control the speed of the motor? i'm interested on modding my tc 105 in order to make a tape delay, so i have to add another playback head, and it would be interesting to have control of the tape speed. can u help me? thanks so much!
I don't know of any way to change the speed of the motor. It is designed to run constantly at one speed, and the speed of the tape is altered by mechanical means. I don't think this type of machine can be altered to make a tape delay. Adding another playback head would turn it into a three head machine, but you'd need to do some circuit modification to make it work right. I can't think of how to do it. Sorry,
sorry if i bother you! haha, i have the final question. the capacitor in my sony tc 105 it says two specs on it "1,5uf+10-5%" and below "0,5uf+10-10%". i understood the tolerance thing you described in the another video. but the question is, i saw the service manual and for 50hz (which stands for the current in my country, not like 60hz you have in the US) the capacitor it's wired at the 0,5uf terminal AND THE 1,5hz; besides, for 60hz countries, it it just wired to the 1,5uf terminal, so i have to assume that i need a 2uf capacitor in order to replace mine, for 50hz? thanks !!
I like the Sony machines a lot also. They hold up very well - once I only had to replace the motor control cap, and one I got recently has the same problem as this one did- frozen pinch roller (I didn't attempt to fix that one yet.) I love the all-wheel design - no belts to replace (on most models.)
+bob7872 Thanks for watching the video. SONY was well known for being champions of idler drive. I find a lot of these machines now suffer from "idler drive shock" If you look at the rubber closely, you'll probably see it has cracks, and worse, it is "slicked". The cracks are caused by the shock to the idler when it is engaged between the spinning motor and the idle capstan flywheel, which is has to get up to speed very quickly. The idler is shocked by overcoming inertia in the flywheel. When the idlers were fresh and new, the resiliency of the rubber "healed" it. But in time, as the oils evaporated from the rubber, it got more prone to this type of breakdown. Like car tires that can have a tread but are still unreliable, these idlers need to be recovered to work their best. The slickness is also age and wear related. Also calls for a recovering job. That can get expensive!
this is a great video it looks like a tc-350 mechanism except the speed knob is in a different place . this video helped me fix the mechanism so I could give it to my sister . thank you and happy new year
I really enjoy all of your videos they are very informative and fun at the same time I really enjoy the intros to your videos they are very clever and fun all the best in 2015
***** Great machines these Sonys I have a TC 330 in daily use. This is the stereo model with detachable speakers It also has a built in cassette player (mine doesnt work) I play the tapes through an Akai AA-R21L which has a Technics M215 connected for playng my cassettes.
very nice you like me really enjoy good quality vintage gear and to me and I am sure you will agree vintage electronics was when companies took pride and made a great product and it was built like a tank and they could last forever with proper care .thank you for all the great videos you post and for keeping the vintage gear alive
Hello clydesight, Wow, am I glad I found your video. It really helped me get my machine running again. Thank you for that. you mention motor lubrication with your special syringe applicator. My motor sounds loud and buzzy mow and eventually tapes will slow down to nothing, Where and how do I lubricate that motor, please? thank you again for your excellent video.
@Media House Hi, thanks for your comment. Your SONY probably needs a new "motor run capacitor". By now, most of the ones in these vintage recorders have gone bad, but replacement is relatively easy if you have some soldering skills. Here is a link to a video where a guy replaces the motor run capacitor on his SONY TC 200. The machine is a bit different from the 106A but the principle is the same. Two very important points: 1. Match the uF rating (look on the can of the old one to see the value) exactly. The uF rating is what keeps the speed stable. Modern capacitors (used in fans mostly) are inexpensive and do a fine job. You can buy these capacitors on Amazon or E-Bay. 2. DO NOT buy a SONY "new old stock" capacitor that someone will try to sell on e-bay as an "exact match". You would be replacing a failed part with another failed (or soon to be failing) part. SONY has not carried the capacitors in inventory for many years, so anything that claims to be an original part will fail, due to age. Here is the video where the guy shows you how he replaced his capacitor. Please be aware of all safety concerns because this part is running at household voltages and will store the energy even after the machine is off and unplugged. If you touch the terminals with your bare hands you can get a shock! sony Tc 200 reel to reel repair replacing the motor run capacitor: ruclips.net/video/RsI6iucxuM4/видео.html I hope this helps!
Que bom que o vídeo te ajudou. Este vídeo tem muitos anos. O livro está esgotado, mas obrigado por procurar! Fique bem e seguro. (Glad the video helped you. This video is many years old. The book is out of print, but thanks for looking! Be well and safe. )
This is an excellent tape recorder restoration video. I was wondering if you could help me out. I have magnavox tape recorder where the motor is powering up but it just hums and won't spin the fan underneath nor the captain to operate the movement of reels. I don't know if by using standard head cleaner messed it up because it actually stopped spinning before event trying to attempt to clean and lubricate the motor itself. It turns but kind of stiff. What is the best method to fix this type of problem. Also the meters don't move when in play or record mode. I had the machine apart but didn't know what to take apart to really dig deep into the mechanics and electronics without maybe taking something apart wrong and not being able to put it back together. If you have a magnavox reel to reel unit with the similar set up as this sony that will help a lot to watch a video on making repairs. Thank you in advance for your suggestions. Gary
musicman0150 It is impossible to know for sure about your Magnavox without seeing it, but from what you describe, I would suspect a failed motor run capacitor. You would need a service manual or schematic to be sure the motor uses one. Using head cleaner would nopt affect the motor, unless you poured it into the thing, and even then it would probably eventually evaporate. The failed meters would probably also come from failed capacitors in the amplifier. Electrolytic capacitors do not age well, they are prone to failure over time. It's in their nature.
Hi Clydesight, wanted to know what the purpose of the signal tone test and where do you get the signal from? Ver,very good tutorial on how to restore a rtr. best regards Rob
Thanks a million for doing this ! your videos are so much more accessible than any other i’ve seen and you have a great way of explaining things! i too also desperately need your advice as i’m in a terrible predicament! i tried to film my dismantling cleaning and restore only for my own benefit HOWEVER the videos did not save and i’m trying to peice back together a Sony TC 270 from memory as i can’t make much sense of the service manual for this thing.. i feel that now that i’ve cleaned the gunk out it’s gonna work as it went from no play to chipmunk so i went in deeper for clean and inspection to find more gunk which i think i’ve now cleared up but putting it back together for my silly brains is going to be real tough... any advice for me please?! i’m DYING to record my music onto it !!! best wishes and you’re doing a sterling (and also funny)! job sir a pleasure to have been in your company during lockdown!
Hi, Thanks for watching the video. Sony machines from this era used mechanical transports that were VERY similar, so a lot of what works for one machine will work on another (i.e. re-lubing all the joints, check the motor run capacitor and replacing if necessary, making sure the motor pully is the right one (there is one for 60Hz and another for 50Hz. Sometimes these get mixed up, especially if your machine came from the UK a la E-Bay). Okay, so to help you out I recommend some RUclips videos about the interiors and servicing of SONY machines that are much closer to the one you have. 1. MEGA Recorder - SONY TC 530 Stereo Reel to Reel Tape Recorder - ruclips.net/video/egybhmaGKDI/видео.html 2. Sony TC540 Reel To Reel Mechanism Service - ruclips.net/video/XuEy4v5EXS8/видео.html Maybe these can help you figure things out. Good luck! Hope this helps!
@@saweyesbaby Best of luck! I don't know what has happened to the date stamp on this video, but, I produced it several years ago when I was trying to run a business and sell my books and CDs. That's all gone now, but these tape recorder videos live on!
At 26:20 My Sony TC-630 looks prety similiar to the insides of your reel to reel. When I set it to play and try doing a mechanical test like you in this spot of the video, the reel moves the black rubber part but not the motor at all and the rest of the chain. In this spot what would you do?
My speech therapist teacher had this same exact model back in 4th grade circa 1995/96. I remember the very 1st time I saw it I thought it was a record player and I couldn't take my eyes off it. The teacher would tell me "sit down" because I was standing up looking at the top. A week later we made a recording on it. Because the teacher would joke around saying he's a martian I used to call an R2R tape recorder a martian machine lol.
Great video!!! I have a TC 252D that's not working properly. It's been years since I've used it but I noticed that the function selector was kind of hard. Never had any problems until now. I know for sure that it needs to be clean. Any suggestions? Any information would be helpful.
Hey Clydesight, I need your help. My TC 252 D looks similar to the 106 A, same capstan, idler drive etc. I've cleaned every part, replace the belts and capacitor. Everything works fine except for the right take up table.When you play a tape it runs smooth up until the end. The table starts to squeak, slows down and stops, yet when turn the table over it works fine. Does the table have to replace or has be cleaned from the inside. Any suggestions would help. Thank you!!
I don't know... is the table exactly the same as you see in my machine or is it more or less complicated? Does the capstan feed the tape properly, and is it ONLY the take up table that makes the noise? If you hold the table so it can't turn, does the noise stop? Is the brake possibly slipping for some reason, so it it touching the take-up table or the feed table? Is there excessive drag on the feed table? Does it do this with different size reels 7", 5" and 3"? There could be so many reasons for an odd behavior like this, It's impossible for me to diagnose something like this remotely. Sorry,
***** Yes, the table is exactly the same. After carefully checking each part again, the right take up table is the problem. I took it apart, cleaned all the parts one by one, used WD 40 and thought it would the problem would be solved, nope. I have a feeling it's the springs that wore out, lost it's tension and causing the table to stop. The best bet would be to find the part or buy a TC 252D that doesn't work. The TC 252D is from 1970 and sounds better than before.
I have a Sony TC105 and need to replace the motor run capacitor and the potentiometer. Do you happen to know the value of the capacitor and the resistance of the potentiometer?
dan bee This video shows all about the capacitor: ruclips.net/video/eoV2ae9mCeU/видео.html. The VOL pot is rated: 10K the TONE is 15K. They probably both have an audio taper.
Thank you for this video. I am trying to digitize mono tapes used in language labs during the 60s and 70s but my TC 106A needs to be repaired. I am not technically inclined. Do you do repairs or can you recommend someone? This is an excellent video but beyond my capabilities. Thank you.
Thanks for your comment. There is a man on RUclips named "12voltvids". He is in Canada, and he does take on some vintage tape recorder projects, and knows Sony recorders. Try contacting him. ruclips.net/user/12voltvids Good luck!
This is a great video. It helped me to determine my problem. I wonder if you can help me. On my same model, when you put it in "Play" mode, the drive idler wheel pivots over to the motor as it should, but it is not making contact with the capstan fly wheel, and therefore the tape will not move. The post that the drive idler wheel pivots on does not appear to be supposed to move. And certainly the flywheel is not supposed to move. So how is it possible that the idler wheel is not rubbing up against the flywheel?
+Ken Waite I found the problem, through a comment by PastorBruceKramer . The Drive wheel "elbow" was frozen. A bit of light household 3 in 1 oil and some play loosened it up. Thank you all.
+Ken Waite Thanks for watching the video, and welcome to the wonderful world of SONY Glubricant! There is a "knee joint" that you aren't aware of because it is seized and makes you think it is supposed to be locked in position. It isn't, and it's an easy fix. You have to understand what's happened, because your problem is one of a series that you will have to address. The grease that SONY used in their machines turns to varnish over time! This affected many mfgs and it did not appear until about 30 years after the machines were built, LONG after anyone thought they'd even exist, so - can't really blame them - I mean, how would they have known? Anyway, it is an easy fix, if you have some patience. You'll need some simple materials. 1) A precision oil syringe. This looks like a big hypodermic needle. You can find them on Amazon but the one I use came from "The TEAC Place" - www.daeinconline.com/parts.html#oiler. Scroll down the page, their link doesn't work right. 2) MARVEL Mystery Oil. This isn't from the movie IRONMAN, it's a real product from the 1920s. It is a red cleaning oil and engine treatment. Very thin and it re-liquefies varnished grease! It actually eats the stuff! You can get this oil at automotive supply places, Amazon (Amazon sells EVERYTHING), or ACE hardware has it as well. www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1452125 3). Obviously, fill your precision oiler with the Marvel oil. 4) Look at my video around: 10:21. You will see the drive idler on the right side, although I am discussing something else. Pause the video. 5) The idler carrier is that plate under the clip and coiled spring. As you can see, the plate has a rivet holding a "knee joint" together. The two parts are supposed to rotate, not be locked to each other in an L shape! This has seized up from the old grease. Carefully take your precision injector and squeeze one or two drops of Marvel oil so it can ooze its way between the two parts. DO NOT OVER OIL! A drop or two will start things off. Better to do a little bit at a time than too much and then have to clean excess oil! Give it time to do the work, this is a chemical alteration and chemical results take time. Wait a few minutes (like 10 or so) 6) Wriggle the parts to get them freed up. Add drops more oil and repeat as necessary, mopping up any excess. If you have a bad case of the glubes, you will have to take the part out (be careful of the "e" clips that hold things together, they are very easy to loose because they like to "fly off" ) and flex it. That should free the joint up and the drive wheel will now engage between the motor and the flywheel properly. 7) Go throughout the machine and look for places where SONY put grease. Give them a drop or two of the Marvel oil to free them up. I hope this helps!
Thank you so much for that info. One other quick question. When I turn the power knob on, nothing happens. But when I flick the motor with my finger, it works fine. This means I have to keep the cover off. (I suppose I could flick the fan underneath). Is there anything I can do for the motor to start on it's own?
+Ken Waite Hi Ken, This sounds like a motor run capacitor failure. I had a similar issue and repaired it. See this video for guidance: ruclips.net/video/eoV2ae9mCeU/видео.html
Interesting, this might explain why when I rewind or fast forward my Sony TC-630, the heads move for like 3 seconds then completely stop. I had a feeling it might be a lube problem and so I'll be opening it up. Thanks for the video!
Hmm! I would've thought the problem with the tape lurching forward when moving into PAUSE would be too much take-up tension. maybe the insert in the take-up table need to be replaced?
25:24 when I go into Forward, the drive idler on my machine touches the motor not the fly wheel. I can't figure out why not. It never touches the fly wheel no matter what speed I am in. Mine tape recorder is also a TC-105A but some of the components look slightly different from yours.
Thanks for watching the video. I think you have a grease problem in the linkages for the arm that swings the idler between the motor and the flywheel, Turn the machine off and unplugged (for safety)and get into the chassis. Put a DROP of THIN oil (I use Marvel Mystery Oil - available at many auto and hardware shops) - on the rubbing surfaces of the joint. Allow the oil a few minutes to seep in, and then try to work the joint by hand or with the machine's function control. If it is still a little stiff, dry everything off and repeat. The oil should re-liquefy the grease they used and allow the joint to move freely. Good luck
Wow! Damn good sound from this...even at 1 7/8! But again, not a terribly huge surprise coming from who I call the "Honda of home electronics". Now if it was stereo, & a quad-speed (w/ a 15 in/s option) unit, I'd seriously reconsider lusting after a Nagra 4S.
Hello! I'm glad I found your video on here, I have a Sony stereo tape recorder 500 A with built in portable speakers. Someone dropped it off to me about two and a half years ago. I'm crazy and I just plugged it in and turned it on, it works but not properly, It's definitely locking up. I've been wanting to try and restore it. I'm still but as of now, a little less reluctant to open it up. I'm not going to do anything, until I'm more sure about how it's supposed to operate, I think replacing the capacitors would also be a good thing for it. thanks,
Nat Ireson Hi Nat. if it is locking up, it's almost sure to be the old sticky grease. As you look around on RUclips, you'll find a lot of us restorers run into this problem. You may not need to change the motor run capacitor, or any capacitors... many times, these are perfectly fine. So first thing, I'd recommend get the service manual (which will guide you on how the thing is made), then clean out the old grease and replace with a more reliable modern grease. I use white lithium grease. Good luck!
Just stumbled into your channel Sir. Loved it and subed. Quick question for ya, I just got a TEAC A 3440 in a very good shape cosmetically. What works 1- It turns on, all lights work, forward, rewind, play, stop work fine with just a 10" reels on. I didn't run the tape a cross yet. What doesn't work: 1-Pressure roller doesn't engage every time and gets stuck 2-The capstan turns freely and quietly manually, but doesn't turn when hitting play, forward or rewind. Please note, this is my first RtR and have no experience with these whatsoever yet. Any thoughts to help me diagnose/fix this folks would be GREATLY appreciated ?
freemanslim Your best bet is to visit: daeinconline.com (the TEAC Place) and look up belts for your machine. The main drive belts on some TEACs have a tendency to melt. This website will also sell you the all importnat service manual that you need to get the unit apart and test it, etc. You probably have some "glubricant" problems (where the lubricant has turned to cement) preventing the pinch roller arm (and other parts) from moving freely. You'll need to work on the bearings for that with an anti-seize liquid (the OPPOSITE of "locktite") and IF you're lucky, you can get the parts free. Unfortunately, I have worked on some TEACs where it is impossible to free the parts, resulting in a massive 60 pound paper weight. Sorry, it is the nature of the beast. Note that IF you get everything working okay, and you try to run the machine without a tape in it, you MUST position the auto shutoff arm in the ON position or nothing will happen, and you may think you broke the machine. Good Luck
***** Thank you so much mate for the advice. Will get the parts and manuals from the folks. However thinking about dropping at the only local audio spot store in town/Calgary who seem to accept RtR for service & repair but they rate are rather on the steep side at $95/hr for 2-3 hrs average service as per them.
freemanslim If you'ver never worked on an RR machine before and if the place in Calgary is reputable, then I would go that route. $95 an hour is standard for repairing this stuff because it is very labor intensive. However, do check them out, get a guarantee because there are some repair folks who are fly-by-night types, they take your money asnd give next to nothing in return. If they are good, they will get the job done in about 3 hours, plus parts if necessary.
Well Clyde, I took my TEAC 3440 to the audio store,the only one here in the city who does RtR. He asked what works and what not , so I told me, I need to change the capstan belt, and some cleaning and Lube. They charged me $95 upfront for diagnostic and the guy said it might take up to 6 hrs to get to "mint" condition 10 out of 10, out of the box state. Although I value the craft and the amount/time that might go into, but at $95/hr x 6 I rather take the time and give a try myself. I already did open it before I took it to them and even taped video which I will post shortly. Any thoughts Clyde ?
Is that Santa at 27;08? If so, tell him he's the best demonstrator on the web! Seriously, loved the video. Can you tell me why my old Sony seems to play at the same speed no matter where the control is? I've checked mechanical, seems okay. The lever moves up and down according to the speed, but the reels don't seem to change speed on record OR playback. Thanks, anyone.
James Bond SONY machines are notorious for two problems: 1. Grease turns to glue 2. Motor capacitors fail. 1. You should apply 1 or 2 drops of Marvel Mystery Oil (this is an engine cleaning oil available at Amazon or most hardware and auto stores in the U.S.) on every joint, axle, plate, anything where they put their grease The oil re-liquifies the grease and frees up the parts. 2. If the idler wheel moves up and down on the motor pulley and engages the steps correctly, but the capstan speed (which is the tape speed) is still not changing, then the motor run capacitor is probably failing and needs to be replaced. There are many modern replacement capacitors available (they are the ones used in celling fans) from Amazon or E-Bay. You must be careful though. You have to match the specifications on the SONY MRC exactly, and you must also match the wiring to the capacitor terminals. So note which wires on the SONY MRC go to which terminals and put those wires on the terminals of the replacement. The MRC is not polarity sensitive. *Replacing an MRC can be extremely dangerous because the capacitor holds a full charge, and if you touch the terminals accidentally, you could get a really nasty shock.*
This machine, like my TC 630 has the same wretched felt pad pressure plate on the main head, my 3 head has a "balanced" pressure pad assembly on the erase and record area, but the rotten non self locating pad on the playback head which means that with pad wear the heads get destroyed by uneven pressure, i have re-engineered mine to have a self locating pad on the playback head but the damage was already done and new heads are not? available.
Greetings! Thanks for the exploration Clydesight! i have just brought back a td-106a. all is working except for The record lever. it works, alas, yet, it has to be held down manually. Do you have any tips or pointers for making it latch. Cheers!
HI, I think you sent me this question via my Website. I couldn't respond because you didn't include your e-mail, so glad to have a chance to help you here. It's a bit tricky, but here goes! First, watch the video around 18:00 and beyond, and look at the long lever I point out that controls the record button interlock tab. This flat lever runs under the head plate but over the capstan flywheel, as seen when I have the assembly out and upside down. This rec interlock tab is a bent piece running under the VU meter, and the bent part is pointing up. The long flat lever controls this tab. The end of the long lever needs to be behind (meaning away from the front of the machine) the upward pointing interlock tab (which in the video is seen on the right side of the meter at 18:14 through 18:24). Look at 23:40 closely (you may have to go to full screen) to see the relationship between the long flat lever and the rec interlock tab. The interlock tab is part of a locking lever that runs under the VU meter. You can lift the meter up and away to see most of it. The lever is managed by a spring and it rotates slightly on a post that is under the left side of the red record button. If the lever can't move freely, that's why the rec button doesn't lock. You have to clean up the grease on the post and free the action of the lever.. You can test the free movement by turning the function switch to the play (forward) position and then try moving the lever with your finger. If it is sticky, you'll know it immediately. Also watch the function of the long control lever that is managed by the function control. In play (forward) it should move backwards (away from the front of the machine), allowing the rec lock lever to swing backwards as well. The rec lock lever won't move as much as the long function lever. Make sure the long lever is completely free to move (clean out the old sticky grease). The return spring isn't very strong on this.lever. It's a tricky piece, and it has to ride correctly on the control knob cam to do its job. Watch the video very closely from: 25:09 to 25:22 to see these levers changing position.and it should give you the idea of how the thing is supposed to work. Keep working the parts of the machine and follow the mechanical motions and you should get the idea of what the whole system is trying to do. I hope this helps.
***** Thank you Sir! All is working now! i remembered, ex post facto, that i failed to send you an email address, many apologies. Once again, thanks for the repair info it is a very nice machine. If you ever turn up an extra cover, please give me a shout:)
what happened with that capstan happened in a Magnavox but I need a service for it to know how to put it back together have you worked on any magnavoxes? Mine is a 2k879
+clydesight i'm waiting to see if anyone on ebay has another one I can buy for parts or to see how one looks that is properly assembled.then i'll have one for extra parts
i have a problem with my 230 the shield before the heads and the pinchroller dont release fully so i cand wind a tape on it with the cover on i think its a spring under the headbridge but i cant lose the screws
dannyjaar Thanks for watching the video. The most likely cause of the problem is sticky grease in the mechanism that controls the pressure pad plates. The old grease must be cleaned away and replaced. Unfortunately, this means taking the head deck off the main chassis and getting at the mechanism, which is hidden underneath and inside the capstan flywheel. Unless you can get the screws free to get the head deck off, you can't fix this. Not sure what you can do with the stuck screws, perhaps another commenter will have a tip for you. Sorry.
Check out my comments below about this machine. And I'd like to ask anybody who knows: How can I record myself singing songs from my turntable on to this reel-to-reel TC-106. I don't understand the "hook-ups" on the side of the TC-106. Can somebody help me out?? I know my grandmother did it back in the early '70's because I still have some tape reels of her singing and recording on this machine.
Adding in my comment to show I watched the video....Interesting as it is, the marvel mystery oil/lithium grease combination intrerests me, I figure you are putting marvel oil in some spots, and lithium grease in others,.....though when I watched it the advice appeared to be lithium grease with marvel mystery oil mixed on top of the grease,...wrong I am sure,....errr, I need to watch that again. Ya know, I was about to start a refurbishment of a sony I have, but I don't have lithium white grease, I only have silicon lube grease. Oh, I could get lithum white grease at a auto parts store I am sure.
Bud White Thanks for watching the video! From what I can see on the Internet, either Lithium and/or Silicone grease will be fine for inside a tape recorder. I read one comment in a posting that said: silicone is used in car door seals to weatherproof them and help prevent leaks, and it allows the passage of air, but lithium is used on the hinges because of the heavy wear. When I started using lithium grease, that is what the hardware store had for "grease". It came in a spray can and was highly liquid at first, but in about 24 hours was more paste-grease like. I had to spray it into a plastic tray and wait before I could really apply it with a toothpick or swab. The the store started selling the stuff in a tube, so it was much thicker, like toothpaste. I find it is very good for rattles. The Marvel oil is a whole other thing. There is info about it on their website: Marvel Mystery Oil dot com. It is a cleaning oil (Like WD-40) but is very thin (and red in color). It also "creeps" so it can get into bearings easily. This makes it ideal for those joints that have been riveted together and motor bearings. It will creep into the space between parts and cost the parts. It also re-liquefies lithium grease that has "pasted". So it helps preserve the lithium grease as a viscous grease when that kind fo application is suitable. But lithium grease itself is really good with rattle, so if you have parts, like reel tables, an application of the lithium grease will keep the parts from rattling. Also good for capstan flywheel bearings. But if you can't get the capstan out, then the only choice is the Marvel. I always use an injection oiler for the precision it has, and usually one or two drops of Marvel works wonders. And yes, Marvel WILL re-liquify the SONY joints and old grease in about 5 minutes!
Thanks, that makes alot of sense. I'll probably just get some more lithium grease,.....maybe I have some around. I am sure I have marvel mystery oil, or I did for twenty years and threw it out, like when I moved. I can't wait to tear into my old sony 540, it sitting in the other room needing service bugs me to no end.
The felt rings on the idler wheels HOLD oil which then seeps through the metal to the axle to keep the joint lubricated. Many of these idlers seize up over time because the machine did not get regular maintenance and oiling, and the oil in the rings dried out. When these machines were new it was recommended that they receive a maintenance check every year to replace the oils. People rarely bothered to do it because of the expense. Instead they often bought a newer machine and left the older one to rot. This felt-oil design is common in many tape recorders and electric motors. The problem is when machines are left idle and not maintained. When the oil evaporates from grease, it leaves behind a sticky goo that eventually becomes like cement. During maintenance a technician would clean and re-grease the machine. But if that maintenance was not done... well, we are dealing with that problem today.
I just bought a Sony tc-106 tape recorder , mechanicly no problem but when playing it plays both side of the tape and gives voices i dont recgnize it I put the reel one side recorded the other side is emty original . I play the emty side , not supposed to hear anything but ihear something from the recorded side .Practically iam not able to play anithing .What can i do .
Istvan Eross It sounds like your tape was recorded on a 4-track machine. The TC106 is a 2-track machine and can only play 2-track tapes. Can you get a completely blank tape and try it?
My DSL is giving me fits today but I got to see most of the video. I'll come back for the rest. This is, by far, one of the best videos you have ever done. I simply love this machine and the TLC you give it is well deserved. This was the kind of machine I used to dream about as a kid! If I had one, I would have surely completely worn it out... Excellent work both on the Sony and the video.
This is a great video and thank you for sharing. I have a Sony-O-Matic TC-106 that originally belonged to my late grandmother. As far as I know, she purchased the TC-106 sometime between 1968-1970. Since my grandmother's death in 2012, I have acquired her Sony TC-106 and it is in remarkable condition! Cosmetically and functionally it is in near mint condition and I tried playing it just last night and it still seems to play and sound very well, other than some humming and tape "slag" when it's in rewind.
Much appreciated your video, which confirmed my findings that Sony lubed their units with a grease that "freezes up" over the years. Just finished completely restoring my Sony TC-570;. AND just as you pointed out both brake arms were essentially froze up! PLUS, the elbow of the capstan drive wheel arm was froze solid! (Wheel would not even touch the capstan!) After removing and soaking it, finally got it working. FYI, I use a light weight synthetic oil -- a sewing machine type oil. And NOW a tape I made probably 30+ years ago from the ol' record player is filling our home with Christmas music once again!
+PastorBruceKramer Thanks for sharing your experience. And congratulations on your restoration! "Gluebricant" was a common problem for many of the 1960s manufacturers, along with "melted belt syndrome", "plastic wire jacket burn" and the occasionally "wire insulation poweder-ification" (This mostly affected Italian machines by Geloso).
These were all chemical issues that took DECADES to develop because they were the result of pollution and oxygen exposure that happened over far more years than the machines were designed to "live".
It is a testament to the engineers and designers that their work has lasted so long (even with these issues), and continues to give pleasure and inspiration to others, not to mention a small fortune to some e-bay sellers who strategically overprice their finds!
Very comprehensive. You have laid it all out logically in a cohesive and digestible manner. I learned a number of things that I will keep in mind as I begin work on my TC-355. Thanks, again for an enjoyable tutorial.
Carl Rudd Thanks for watching the video and good luck with your project!
As always, your meticulousness sets the RUclips standard for tape recorder restoration videos. I've got almost a year's worth of tape recorder collecting that is awaiting my attention and your videos are great references to get me started on my projects.
great job as always!!! another one that didn't end up in the landfill !!!! you are the man, sir!! sincerly yours, ed
Good job on the repair and clean up on a vintage piece of an audio recorder. These were made back when quality and reliability was paramount. Sony products back then were distributed through Superscope of Los Angeles California. These were also made in Japan. The only concern about these old recorders would be with the recording heads. If badly worn, play back would sound muddy, garbled with lost higher frequency response. Much like if the heads were dirty and needed to be cleaned.
I really enjoyed the video. Thanks for taking the time to do this. I have a Sony TC-399 that I am trying to get working again. I think I need to do the entire lube job on the parts.
Bruce Forsberg Yeah, you're probably right. But it is worth it. Sony made some fantastic machines!
Thanks for the video. I'm starting to clean an old Sony TC-355. Considering the age, it's clean however there is no movement in the pinch roller or capstan so this video will be very helpful since it seems Sony used very similar mechanisms in most of these early units. I'm going to use Super Lube, an excellent silicon grease after cleaning all the shafts & pivot points with alcohol and q-tips. Can't wait to start now!
Thanks so very much. My TC 106 has the grinding flywheel also. Very helpful 🙂
you did a fantastic job as usual restoring your Sony.I don`t know if my favorite part of restoring a piece of machinery is replacing the caps and dead electrical components, or cleaning all the gunk off the mechanical parts and seeing them gleem and shiny and properly relubed again. When you get a tape recorders working again it just makes you feel like Gene Wilder in Young Frankenstein saying ....it`s alive,.....It`s Alive...IT`S ALIVE!!!!!!
Another great interesting video! Very nice machine. Sounds great even through YT audio. You can really hear the difference in the audio quality between the recording speeds. Not so much when doing voice recordings at the different speeds. BTW, Hope you are doing well.
Thank you. Am currently trying to figure out why a TC-108 Capstan wasn't turning and I realise, thanks to you, that the rubber flywheel that drives it isn't fully engaging.
Back into the depths I go . . . Much appreciated, that man!
+The Gods Right-Hand Man Hi, I recommend you do what I did in the video and get some Marvel Mystery Oil (you can get it at many auto, hardware stores and Amazon.com) and an injection oiler (a syringe with a long nose so you can be very precise in oiling. Marvel is a cleaning lubricant made for the stubborn sludge that builds up in car engines. SONY tape recorders suffer from "glubrication" where the grease they used oxidizes and turns into a varnish, thus sticking the parts and making them sluggish or not mobile at all. A drop or two of Marvel Mystery Oil on all greased joints will re-liquefy the grease over a short time and keep it fresh.
+clydesight Woohoo! She Lives!
I disassembled the Capstan Drive-Wheel and found that the swinging arm it sits on was "glued" solid. Unstuck, cleaned & lubed same and she's running good as new.
Thanks again, Mr. Clyde x
+The Gods Right-Hand Man Good News! Congratulations. Enjoy your tape recorder.
Thank you very much for this. Very very helpful.
you're a total master!! here in my country (chile) it seems that nobody knows how to repair well these machines... so i'm learning from your video to repair my sony tc-105 which is very similar to the model you are fixing here. mine is working, but plays at a lower pitch. thanks!!! greetings from chile
+lesquatrecentscoups Thanks for watching the video! The Sony 105 is a fine machine and uses many of the same or similar parts and designs as the 106A It sounds like you simply need to change the motor run capacitor.
What is the electrical system in Chile? (i.e. here in the US it is 110 volts at 60 cycles) If it is different, then you just need to install a motor run capacitor for your country's voltage and cycles. If your machine was made for your country (not purchased in the US and brought to Chile), the old capacitor will tell you the proper microfarad rating.
If Chile uses the same system as the US, then I have the answer in a video. See my follow up video to this one: ruclips.net/video/eoV2ae9mCeU/видео.html
Good luck!
thanks man. i found the MP capacitor and i will replace it. i have a question i think you are the only who can answers, there is any way to assign a knob or pot to control the speed of the motor? i'm interested on modding my tc 105 in order to make a tape delay, so i have to add another playback head, and it would be interesting to have control of the tape speed. can u help me? thanks so much!
I don't know of any way to change the speed of the motor. It is designed to run constantly at one speed, and the speed of the tape is altered by mechanical means. I don't think this type of machine can be altered to make a tape delay. Adding another playback head would turn it into a three head machine, but you'd need to do some circuit modification to make it work right. I can't think of how to do it. Sorry,
thanks man. no prob, i find out that it would be easier to adjust the tape speed with a knob in a walkman-type of circuit.
sorry if i bother you! haha, i have the final question. the capacitor in my sony tc 105 it says two specs on it "1,5uf+10-5%" and below "0,5uf+10-10%". i understood the tolerance thing you described in the another video. but the question is, i saw the service manual and for 50hz (which stands for the current in my country, not like 60hz you have in the US) the capacitor it's wired at the 0,5uf terminal AND THE 1,5hz; besides, for 60hz countries, it it just wired to the 1,5uf terminal, so i have to assume that i need a 2uf capacitor in order to replace mine, for 50hz? thanks !!
I like the Sony machines a lot also. They hold up very well - once I only had to replace the motor control cap, and one I got recently has the same problem as this one did- frozen pinch roller (I didn't attempt to fix that one yet.) I love the all-wheel design - no belts to replace (on most models.)
+bob7872 Thanks for watching the video. SONY was well known for being champions of idler drive. I find a lot of these machines now suffer from "idler drive shock"
If you look at the rubber closely, you'll probably see it has cracks, and worse, it is "slicked". The cracks are caused by the shock to the idler when it is engaged between the spinning motor and the idle capstan flywheel, which is has to get up to speed very quickly. The idler is shocked by overcoming inertia in the flywheel.
When the idlers were fresh and new, the resiliency of the rubber "healed" it. But in time, as the oils evaporated from the rubber, it got more prone to this type of breakdown. Like car tires that can have a tread but are still unreliable, these idlers need to be recovered to work their best. The slickness is also age and wear related. Also calls for a recovering job. That can get expensive!
Really Excellent! The first timeI have seen your site. Do you restore tape recorders that people send in. I have one that I would love to have you do.
this is a great video it looks like a tc-350 mechanism except the speed knob is in a different place . this video helped me fix the mechanism so I could give it to my sister . thank you and happy new year
***** You are welcome, glad the video helped you!
I really enjoy all of your videos they are very informative and fun at the same time I really enjoy the intros to your videos they are very clever and fun all the best in 2015
***** Thank you for the kind words, it helps to know that the work is appreciated. I hope 2015 is a beneficial time for all of us! Happy New Year.
***** Great machines these Sonys I have a TC 330 in
daily use. This is the stereo model with detachable speakers
It also has a built in cassette player (mine doesnt work) I play
the tapes through an Akai AA-R21L which has a Technics M215
connected for playng my cassettes.
very nice you like me really enjoy good quality vintage gear and to me and I am sure you will agree vintage electronics was when companies took pride and made a great product and it was built like a tank and they could last forever with proper care .thank you for all the great videos you post and for keeping the vintage gear alive
Hello clydesight,
Wow, am I glad I found your video. It really helped me get my machine running again. Thank you for that. you mention motor lubrication with your special syringe applicator. My motor sounds loud and buzzy mow and eventually tapes will slow down to nothing, Where and how do I lubricate that motor, please? thank you again for your excellent video.
@Media House
Hi, thanks for your comment. Your SONY probably needs a new "motor run capacitor". By now, most of the ones in these vintage recorders have gone bad, but replacement is relatively easy if you have some soldering skills. Here is a link to a video where a guy replaces the motor run capacitor on his SONY TC 200. The machine is a bit different from the 106A but the principle is the same. Two very important points:
1. Match the uF rating (look on the can of the old one to see the value) exactly. The uF rating is what keeps the speed stable. Modern capacitors (used in fans mostly) are inexpensive and do a fine job. You can buy these capacitors on Amazon or E-Bay.
2. DO NOT buy a SONY "new old stock" capacitor that someone will try to sell on e-bay as an "exact match". You would be replacing a failed part with another failed (or soon to be failing) part. SONY has not carried the capacitors in inventory for many years, so anything that claims to be an original part will fail, due to age.
Here is the video where the guy shows you how he replaced his capacitor. Please be aware of all safety concerns because this part is running at household voltages and will store the energy even after the machine is off and unplugged. If you touch the terminals with your bare hands you can get a shock!
sony Tc 200 reel to reel repair replacing the motor run capacitor:
ruclips.net/video/RsI6iucxuM4/видео.html
I hope this helps!
Thank. You for your in depth reply!
I will try a new capacitor.
I truly appreciate your time and effort.
it was great your videos are excellent
Where can I get belts for the same reel to reel? What part numbers do I need for both belts! By the way awesome video!
Obrigado. Tenho um Aiwa que está travado, seu vídeo abriu meu horizonte. Procurei o livro que mencionou e não encontrei.
Que bom que o vídeo te ajudou. Este vídeo tem muitos anos. O livro está esgotado, mas obrigado por procurar! Fique bem e seguro.
(Glad the video helped you. This video is many years old. The book is out of print, but thanks for looking! Be well and safe. )
This is an excellent tape recorder restoration video. I was wondering if you could help me out. I have magnavox tape recorder where the motor is powering up but it just hums and won't spin the fan underneath nor the captain to operate the movement of reels. I don't know if by using standard head cleaner messed it up because it actually stopped spinning before event trying to attempt to clean and lubricate the motor itself. It turns but kind of stiff. What is the best method to fix this type of problem. Also the meters don't move when in play or record mode. I had the machine apart but didn't know what to take apart to really dig deep into the mechanics and electronics without maybe taking something apart wrong and not being able to put it back together. If you have a magnavox reel to reel unit with the similar set up as this sony that will help a lot to watch a video on making repairs. Thank you in advance for your suggestions.
Gary
musicman0150 It is impossible to know for sure about your Magnavox without seeing it, but from what you describe, I would suspect a failed motor run capacitor. You would need a service manual or schematic to be sure the motor uses one. Using head cleaner would nopt affect the motor, unless you poured it into the thing, and even then it would probably eventually evaporate. The failed meters would probably also come from failed capacitors in the amplifier. Electrolytic capacitors do not age well, they are prone to failure over time. It's in their nature.
HI CLYDE:
YOUR WORK IS GREAT. I HOPE SOMEDAY CAN BE LIKE YOU.
HOW DO YOU MAKE THE NEW BRAKES?
Hi Clydesight,
wanted to know what the purpose of the signal tone test and where do you get the signal from?
Ver,very good tutorial on how to restore a rtr.
best regards
Rob
Thanks a million for doing this ! your videos are so much more accessible than any other i’ve seen and you have a great way of explaining things!
i too also desperately need your advice as i’m in a terrible predicament!
i tried to film my dismantling cleaning and restore only for my own benefit HOWEVER the videos did not save and i’m trying to peice back together a Sony TC 270 from memory as i can’t make much sense of the service manual for this thing.. i feel that now that i’ve cleaned the gunk out it’s gonna work as it went from no play to chipmunk so i went in deeper for clean and inspection to find more gunk which i think i’ve now cleared up but putting it back together for my silly brains is going to be real tough... any advice for me please?! i’m DYING to record my music onto it !!! best wishes and you’re doing a sterling (and also funny)! job sir a pleasure to have been in your company during lockdown!
Hi, Thanks for watching the video. Sony machines from this era used mechanical transports that were VERY similar, so a lot of what works for one machine will work on another (i.e. re-lubing all the joints, check the motor run capacitor and replacing if necessary, making sure the motor pully is the right one (there is one for 60Hz and another for 50Hz. Sometimes these get mixed up, especially if your machine came from the UK a la E-Bay).
Okay, so to help you out I recommend some RUclips videos about the interiors and servicing of SONY machines that are much closer to the one you have.
1. MEGA Recorder - SONY TC 530 Stereo Reel to Reel Tape Recorder - ruclips.net/video/egybhmaGKDI/видео.html
2. Sony TC540 Reel To Reel Mechanism Service - ruclips.net/video/XuEy4v5EXS8/видео.html
Maybe these can help you figure things out.
Good luck! Hope this helps!
wow!
such quick response .. i’ll check these immediately and let you know !!! good luck with the book too i will check it out !! much praise to you!
@@saweyesbaby Best of luck! I don't know what has happened to the date stamp on this video, but, I produced it several years ago when I was trying to run a business and sell my books and CDs. That's all gone now, but these tape recorder videos live on!
@@clydesight well....AMEN to that! You’re both mighty helpful and a hoot to boot so keep the humour coming!
At 26:20 My Sony TC-630 looks prety similiar to the insides of your reel to reel. When I set it to play and try doing a mechanical test like you in this spot of the video, the reel moves the black rubber part but not the motor at all and the rest of the chain. In this spot what would you do?
Dear Genius of Restoration:
Do you happen to have a central pulley for the TC 250 the one that moves the capstan?
Regards
I do not, but I have sometimes seen these pulleys on E-Bay.
*****
So which one will be a nice keyword for the search my dear friend?
Estricto Severino
Try SONY motor pulley or SONY parts.
My speech therapist teacher had this same exact model back in 4th grade circa 1995/96. I remember the very 1st time I saw it I thought it was a record player and I couldn't take my eyes off it. The teacher would tell me "sit down" because I was standing up looking at the top. A week later we made a recording on it. Because the teacher would joke around saying he's a martian I used to call an R2R tape recorder a martian machine lol.
Great video!!! I have a TC 252D that's not working properly. It's been years since I've used it but I noticed that the function selector was kind of hard. Never had any problems until now. I know for sure that it needs to be clean. Any suggestions? Any information would be helpful.
Hey Clydesight, I need your help. My TC 252 D looks similar to the 106 A, same capstan, idler drive etc. I've cleaned every part, replace the belts and capacitor. Everything works fine except for the right take up table.When you play a tape it runs smooth up until the end. The table starts to squeak, slows down and stops, yet when turn the table over it works fine. Does the table have to replace or has be cleaned from the inside. Any suggestions would help. Thank you!!
I don't know... is the table exactly the same as you see in my machine or is it more or less complicated? Does the capstan feed the tape properly, and is it ONLY the take up table that makes the noise? If you hold the table so it can't turn, does the noise stop? Is the brake possibly slipping for some reason, so it it touching the take-up table or the feed table? Is there excessive drag on the feed table? Does it do this with different size reels 7", 5" and 3"? There could be so many reasons for an odd behavior like this, It's impossible for me to diagnose something like this remotely. Sorry,
***** Yes, the table is exactly the same. After carefully checking each part again, the right take up table is the problem. I took it apart, cleaned all the parts one by one, used WD 40 and thought it would the problem would be solved, nope. I have a feeling it's the springs that wore out, lost it's tension and causing the table to stop. The best bet would be to find the part or buy a TC 252D that doesn't work. The TC 252D is from 1970 and sounds better than before.
Thanks for this great video. What did you use to clean the rubber parts?
I have a Sony TC105 and need to replace the motor run capacitor and the potentiometer.
Do you happen to know the value of the capacitor and the resistance of the potentiometer?
dan bee This video shows all about the capacitor: ruclips.net/video/eoV2ae9mCeU/видео.html. The VOL pot is rated: 10K the TONE is 15K. They probably both have an audio taper.
flawless
Thank you for this video. I am trying to digitize mono tapes used in language labs during the 60s and 70s but my TC 106A needs to be repaired. I am not technically inclined. Do you do repairs or can you recommend someone? This is an excellent video but beyond my capabilities. Thank you.
Thanks for your comment. There is a man on RUclips named "12voltvids". He is in Canada, and he does take on some vintage tape recorder projects, and knows Sony recorders. Try contacting him.
ruclips.net/user/12voltvids
Good luck!
This is a great video. It helped me to determine my problem. I wonder if you can help me. On my same model, when you put it in "Play" mode, the drive idler wheel pivots over to the motor as it should, but it is not making contact with the capstan fly wheel, and therefore the tape will not move. The post that the drive idler wheel pivots on does not appear to be supposed to move. And certainly the flywheel is not supposed to move. So how is it possible that the idler wheel is not rubbing up against the flywheel?
+Ken Waite I found the problem, through a comment by PastorBruceKramer . The Drive wheel "elbow" was frozen. A bit of light household 3 in 1 oil and some play loosened it up. Thank you all.
+Ken Waite Thanks for watching the video, and welcome to the wonderful world of SONY Glubricant!
There is a "knee joint" that you aren't aware of because it is seized and makes you think it is supposed to be locked in position. It isn't, and it's an easy fix. You have to understand what's happened, because your problem is one of a series that you will have to address.
The grease that SONY used in their machines turns to varnish over time! This affected many mfgs and it did not appear until about 30 years after the machines were built, LONG after anyone thought they'd even exist, so - can't really blame them - I mean, how would they have known? Anyway, it is an easy fix, if you have some patience.
You'll need some simple materials.
1) A precision oil syringe. This looks like a big hypodermic needle. You can find them on Amazon but the one I use came from "The TEAC Place" - www.daeinconline.com/parts.html#oiler. Scroll down the page, their link doesn't work right.
2) MARVEL Mystery Oil. This isn't from the movie IRONMAN, it's a real product from the 1920s. It is a red cleaning oil and engine treatment. Very thin and it re-liquefies varnished grease! It actually eats the stuff! You can get this oil at automotive supply places, Amazon (Amazon sells EVERYTHING), or ACE hardware has it as well. www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1452125
3). Obviously, fill your precision oiler with the Marvel oil.
4) Look at my video around: 10:21. You will see the drive idler on the right side, although I am discussing something else. Pause the video.
5) The idler carrier is that plate under the clip and coiled spring. As you can see, the plate has a rivet holding a "knee joint" together. The two parts are supposed to rotate, not be locked to each other in an L shape!
This has seized up from the old grease. Carefully take your precision injector and squeeze one or two drops of Marvel oil so it can ooze its way between the two parts. DO NOT OVER OIL! A drop or two will start things off. Better to do a little bit at a time than too much and then have to clean excess oil! Give it time to do the work, this is a chemical alteration and chemical results take time. Wait a few minutes (like 10 or so)
6) Wriggle the parts to get them freed up. Add drops more oil and repeat as necessary, mopping up any excess.
If you have a bad case of the glubes, you will have to take the part out (be careful of the "e" clips that hold things together, they are very easy to loose because they like to "fly off" ) and flex it.
That should free the joint up and the drive wheel will now engage between the motor and the flywheel properly.
7) Go throughout the machine and look for places where SONY put grease. Give them a drop or two of the Marvel oil to free them up.
I hope this helps!
Thank you so much for that info. One other quick question. When I turn the power knob on, nothing happens. But when I flick the motor with my finger, it works fine. This means I have to keep the cover off. (I suppose I could flick the fan underneath). Is there anything I can do for the motor to start on it's own?
+Ken Waite Hi Ken, This sounds like a motor run capacitor failure. I had a similar issue and repaired it. See this video for guidance: ruclips.net/video/eoV2ae9mCeU/видео.html
Interesting, this might explain why when I rewind or fast forward my Sony TC-630, the heads move for like 3 seconds then completely stop. I had a feeling it might be a lube problem and so I'll be opening it up. Thanks for the video!
Hmm! I would've thought the problem with the tape lurching forward when moving into PAUSE would be too much take-up tension. maybe the insert in the take-up table need to be replaced?
David Perkins It's a combination of the feed table brake and the release of the pinch roller. The service manual gives the right specs.
Thanks for the advice.
25:24 when I go into Forward, the drive idler on my machine touches the motor not the fly wheel. I can't figure out why not.
It never touches the fly wheel no matter what speed I am in. Mine tape recorder is also a TC-105A but some of the components look slightly different from yours.
Thanks for watching the video. I think you have a grease problem in the linkages for the arm that swings the idler between the motor and the flywheel,
Turn the machine off and unplugged (for safety)and get into the chassis.
Put a DROP of THIN oil (I use Marvel Mystery Oil - available at many auto and hardware shops) - on the rubbing surfaces of the joint.
Allow the oil a few minutes to seep in, and then try to work the joint by hand or with the machine's function control.
If it is still a little stiff, dry everything off and repeat.
The oil should re-liquefy the grease they used and allow the joint to move freely.
Good luck
Wow! Damn good sound from this...even at 1 7/8! But again, not a terribly huge surprise coming from who I call the "Honda of home electronics". Now if it was stereo, & a quad-speed (w/ a 15 in/s option) unit, I'd seriously reconsider lusting after a Nagra 4S.
Hello! I'm glad I found your video on here, I have a Sony stereo tape recorder 500 A with built in portable speakers. Someone dropped it off to me about two and a half years ago. I'm crazy and I just plugged it in and turned it on, it works but not properly, It's definitely locking up. I've been wanting to try and restore it. I'm still but as of now, a little less reluctant to open it up. I'm not going to do anything, until I'm more sure about how it's supposed to operate, I think replacing the capacitors would also be a good thing for it. thanks,
Nat Ireson Hi Nat. if it is locking up, it's almost sure to be the old sticky grease. As you look around on RUclips, you'll find a lot of us restorers run into this problem. You may not need to change the motor run capacitor, or any capacitors... many times, these are perfectly fine. So first thing, I'd recommend get the service manual (which will guide you on how the thing is made), then clean out the old grease and replace with a more reliable modern grease. I use white lithium grease. Good luck!
Just stumbled into your channel Sir. Loved it and subed. Quick question for ya, I just got a TEAC A 3440 in a very good shape cosmetically.
What works
1- It turns on, all lights work, forward, rewind, play, stop work fine with just a 10" reels on. I didn't run the tape a cross yet.
What doesn't work:
1-Pressure roller doesn't engage every time and gets stuck
2-The capstan turns freely and quietly manually, but doesn't turn when hitting play, forward or rewind.
Please note, this is my first RtR and have no experience with these whatsoever yet.
Any thoughts to help me diagnose/fix this folks would be GREATLY appreciated ?
freemanslim Your best bet is to visit: daeinconline.com (the TEAC Place) and look up belts for your machine. The main drive belts on some TEACs have a tendency to melt. This website will also sell you the all importnat service manual that you need to get the unit apart and test it, etc.
You probably have some "glubricant" problems (where the lubricant has turned to cement) preventing the pinch roller arm (and other parts) from moving freely. You'll need to work on the bearings for that with an anti-seize liquid (the OPPOSITE of "locktite") and IF you're lucky, you can get the parts free.
Unfortunately, I have worked on some TEACs where it is impossible to free the parts, resulting in a massive 60 pound paper weight. Sorry, it is the nature of the beast.
Note that IF you get everything working okay, and you try to run the machine without a tape in it, you MUST position the auto shutoff arm in the ON position or nothing will happen, and you may think you broke the machine. Good Luck
***** Thank you so much mate for the advice. Will get the parts and manuals from the folks. However thinking about dropping at the only local audio spot store in town/Calgary who seem to accept RtR for service & repair but they rate are rather on the steep side at $95/hr for 2-3 hrs average service as per them.
freemanslim If you'ver never worked on an RR machine before and if the place in Calgary is reputable, then I would go that route. $95 an hour is standard for repairing this stuff because it is very labor intensive. However, do check them out, get a guarantee because there are some repair folks who are fly-by-night types, they take your money asnd give next to nothing in return. If they are good, they will get the job done in about 3 hours, plus parts if necessary.
Thank you Clyde once again for teh advice. Will do.
Well Clyde, I took my TEAC 3440 to the audio store,the only one here in the city who does RtR. He asked what works and what not , so I told me, I need to change the capstan belt, and some cleaning and Lube. They charged me $95 upfront for diagnostic and the guy said it might take up to 6 hrs to get to "mint" condition 10 out of 10, out of the box state. Although I value the craft and the amount/time that might go into, but at $95/hr x 6 I rather take the time and give a try myself. I already did open it before I took it to them and even taped video which I will post shortly. Any thoughts Clyde ?
I guess you can use it for platters. I get mine from ACE Hardware. It comes on a small roll about 12" wide. I think one brand name is "Wonder Liner".
Is that Santa at 27;08? If so, tell him he's the best demonstrator on the web!
Seriously, loved the video. Can you tell me why my old Sony seems to play at the same speed no matter where the control is? I've checked mechanical, seems okay.
The lever moves up and down according to the speed, but the reels don't seem to change speed on record OR playback. Thanks, anyone.
James Bond SONY machines are notorious for two problems:
1. Grease turns to glue
2. Motor capacitors fail.
1. You should apply 1 or 2 drops of Marvel Mystery Oil (this is an engine cleaning oil available at Amazon or most hardware and auto stores in the U.S.) on every joint, axle, plate, anything where they put their grease The oil re-liquifies the grease and frees up the parts.
2. If the idler wheel moves up and down on the motor pulley and engages the steps correctly, but the capstan speed (which is the tape speed) is still not changing, then the motor run capacitor is probably failing and needs to be replaced.
There are many modern replacement capacitors available (they are the ones used in celling fans) from Amazon or E-Bay. You must be careful though.
You have to match the specifications on the SONY MRC exactly, and you must also match the wiring to the capacitor terminals.
So note which wires on the SONY MRC go to which terminals and put those wires on the terminals of the replacement.
The MRC is not polarity sensitive.
*Replacing an MRC can be extremely dangerous because the capacitor holds a full charge, and if you touch the terminals accidentally, you could get a really nasty shock.*
Thanks a million. Will investigate.
This machine, like my TC 630 has the same wretched felt pad pressure plate on the main head, my 3 head has a "balanced" pressure pad assembly on the erase and record area, but the rotten non self locating pad on the playback head which means that with pad wear the heads get destroyed by uneven pressure, i have re-engineered mine to have a self locating pad on the playback head but the damage was already done and new heads are not? available.
Greetings! Thanks for the exploration Clydesight! i have just brought back a td-106a. all is working except for The record lever. it works, alas, yet, it has to be held down manually. Do you have any tips or pointers for making it latch. Cheers!
HI, I think you sent me this question via my Website. I couldn't respond because you didn't include your e-mail, so glad to have a chance to help you here. It's a bit tricky, but here goes! First, watch the video around 18:00 and beyond, and look at the long lever I point out that controls the record button interlock tab. This flat lever runs under the head plate but over the capstan flywheel, as seen when I have the assembly out and upside down. This rec interlock tab is a bent piece running under the VU meter, and the bent part is pointing up. The long flat lever controls this tab.
The end of the long lever needs to be behind (meaning away from the front of the machine) the upward pointing interlock tab (which in the video is seen on the right side of the meter at 18:14 through 18:24). Look at 23:40 closely (you may have to go to full screen) to see the relationship between the long flat lever and the rec interlock tab.
The interlock tab is part of a locking lever that runs under the VU meter. You can lift the meter up and away to see most of it. The lever is managed by a spring and it rotates slightly on a post that is under the left side of the red record button. If the lever can't move freely, that's why the rec button doesn't lock. You have to clean up the grease on the post and free the action of the lever..
You can test the free movement by turning the function switch to the play (forward) position and then try moving the lever with your finger. If it is sticky, you'll know it immediately.
Also watch the function of the long control lever that is managed by the function control. In play (forward) it should move backwards (away from the front of the machine), allowing the rec lock lever to swing backwards as well. The rec lock lever won't move as much as the long function lever. Make sure the long lever is completely free to move (clean out the old sticky grease). The return spring isn't very strong on this.lever.
It's a tricky piece, and it has to ride correctly on the control knob cam to do its job. Watch the video very closely from: 25:09 to 25:22 to see these levers changing position.and it should give you the idea of how the thing is supposed to work.
Keep working the parts of the machine and follow the mechanical motions and you should get the idea of what the whole system is trying to do.
I hope this helps.
***** Thank you Sir! All is working now! i remembered, ex post facto, that i failed to send you an email address, many apologies. Once again, thanks for the repair info it is a very nice machine. If you ever turn up an extra cover, please give me a shout:)
magneticstripper You are most welcome. Enjoy your SONY TC106A!
Verygood Professional 👍👍👍👍
what happened with that capstan happened in a Magnavox but I need a service for it to know how to put it back together have you worked on any magnavoxes? Mine is a 2k879
+Larry Shaver Hi Larry, thanks for watching the video. I haven't worked on any Magnavox machines so I don't think I can help you. Sorry.
+clydesight have you worked on any Panasonic though i'm sure one was made for Magnavox by panasonic
+Larry Shaver I've worked on a few Panasonics. What are you trying to do with your Magnavox?
+clydesight i'm waiting to see if anyone on ebay has another one I can buy for parts or to see how one looks that is properly assembled.then i'll have one for extra parts
Awesome!
Excelentes videos... ya me suscribi al canal... felicitaciones desde Colombia
i have a problem with my 230 the shield before the heads and the pinchroller dont release fully so i cand wind a tape on it with the cover on i think its a spring under the headbridge but i cant lose the screws
dannyjaar Thanks for watching the video. The most likely cause of the problem is sticky grease in the mechanism that controls the pressure pad plates. The old grease must be cleaned away and replaced.
Unfortunately, this means taking the head deck off the main chassis and getting at the mechanism, which is hidden underneath and inside the capstan flywheel.
Unless you can get the screws free to get the head deck off, you can't fix this.
Not sure what you can do with the stuck screws, perhaps another commenter will have a tip for you.
Sorry.
Just plug it in and the volume and tone knobs magically appear! :) (28:15)
THAT ONE YOU USE FOR THE PLATTERS?
Hello Sony...glad to meet yoU!!!...........
I replaced the motor run capacitor but it runs very slow
I restored a a stereo one it was full of gunk,but after it was a amazing machine.
Clydesght When I Play musing back round scratching noise.
Check out my comments below about this machine. And I'd like to ask anybody who knows: How can I record myself singing songs from my turntable on to this reel-to-reel TC-106. I don't understand the "hook-ups" on the side of the TC-106. Can somebody help me out?? I know my grandmother did it back in the early '70's because I still have some tape reels of her singing and recording on this machine.
Seems like Sony use that same glubricant used in BSR turntable.
Thanks
Adding in my comment to show I watched the video....Interesting as it is, the marvel mystery oil/lithium grease combination intrerests me, I figure you are putting marvel oil in some spots, and lithium grease in others,.....though when I watched it the advice appeared to be lithium grease with marvel mystery oil mixed on top of the grease,...wrong I am sure,....errr, I need to watch that again. Ya know, I was about to start a refurbishment of a sony I have, but I don't have lithium white grease, I only have silicon lube grease. Oh, I could get lithum white grease at a auto parts store I am sure.
Bud White Thanks for watching the video! From what I can see on the Internet, either Lithium and/or Silicone grease will be fine for inside a tape recorder.
I read one comment in a posting that said:
silicone is used in car door seals to weatherproof them and help prevent leaks, and it allows the passage of air, but lithium is used on the hinges because of the heavy wear.
When I started using lithium grease, that is what the hardware store had for "grease". It came in a spray can and was highly liquid at first, but in about 24 hours was more paste-grease like. I had to spray it into a plastic tray and wait before I could really apply it with a toothpick or swab. The the store started selling the stuff in a tube, so it was much thicker, like toothpaste. I find it is very good for rattles.
The Marvel oil is a whole other thing. There is info about it on their website: Marvel Mystery Oil dot com. It is a cleaning oil (Like WD-40) but is very thin (and red in color). It also "creeps" so it can get into bearings easily. This makes it ideal for those joints that have been riveted together and motor bearings. It will creep into the space between parts and cost the parts. It also re-liquefies lithium grease that has "pasted". So it helps preserve the lithium grease as a viscous grease when that kind fo application is suitable.
But lithium grease itself is really good with rattle, so if you have parts, like reel tables, an application of the lithium grease will keep the parts from rattling. Also good for capstan flywheel bearings. But if you can't get the capstan out, then the only choice is the Marvel.
I always use an injection oiler for the precision it has, and usually one or two drops of Marvel works wonders.
And yes, Marvel WILL re-liquify the SONY joints and old grease in about 5 minutes!
Thanks, that makes alot of sense. I'll probably just get some more lithium grease,.....maybe I have some around. I am sure I have marvel mystery oil, or I did for twenty years and threw it out, like when I moved. I can't wait to tear into my old sony 540, it sitting in the other room needing service bugs me to no end.
I use rubberized shelf liner. This stuff is cheap and almost indestructible!
the felt rings are there to catch oil
The felt rings on the idler wheels HOLD oil which then seeps through the metal to the axle to keep the joint lubricated. Many of these idlers seize up over time because the machine did not get regular maintenance and oiling, and the oil in the rings dried out.
When these machines were new it was recommended that they receive a maintenance check every year to replace the oils. People rarely bothered to do it because of the expense. Instead they often bought a newer machine and left the older one to rot.
This felt-oil design is common in many tape recorders and electric motors. The problem is when machines are left idle and not maintained. When the oil evaporates from grease, it leaves behind a sticky goo that eventually becomes like cement.
During maintenance a technician would clean and re-grease the machine. But if that maintenance was not done... well, we are dealing with that problem today.
how do I send you a pm
+Larry Shaver Go to my Channel. Pick the ABOUT tab. Click on SEND MESSAGE.
did you see what I said about the machine running slow
+Larry Shaver Yes I read that.
I just bought a Sony tc-106 tape recorder , mechanicly no problem but when playing it plays both side of the tape and gives voices i dont recgnize it I put the reel one side recorded the other side is emty original . I play the emty side , not supposed to hear anything but ihear something from the recorded side .Practically iam not able to play anithing .What can i do .
Istvan Eross It sounds like your tape was recorded on a 4-track machine. The TC106 is a 2-track machine and can only play 2-track tapes. Can you get a completely blank tape and try it?