Been watching your videos, absolutely the best, most knowledgeable and clearly explained details on the web. I thank you so much for your generosity in sharing your absolute vast knowledge. You are a gentleman and a scholar. You need no back ground music or theatrics, you are the definition of tutorial videos. Priceless.
I've been building houses for over 20 years. Always custom and with great detail. I'm self trained (however lucky enough to have worked with some great craftsman) and have treated each one like it were a boat or as some say a piano. As I tire of this trade (meaning I can't do this forever) I will sooner or later find myself in the shop building as you do. I enjoy your character and work so thanks for sharing!
How would a rope rub-rail have been applied 100 yeas ago before modern adhesives? I also like the sledge-and-punch bucking iron, that makes a great shock-absorbing mass that's still light enough to move around.
it's a great look -- though I do have to ask....if you're going to peen over the cut end of the copper nail, do you really need to use a rasp on it first???
According to another video of his he files it because the pincers leave a bevelled cut. By making it flat first it will make it easier to peen the end over evenly and neatly.
I've built two small clink boats where the hull is fastened with copper rivets. And i would say no you dont need to rasp it first. It is easy enough to get smooth rivets if you just practice. The most inportant thing to get a smooth rivet is to cut the nail off as close as you can to the roe. And the time that it takes having another tool to work with when riveting is not worth it if you are going to put about 600 rivets in a boat.
No. If you do, it will trap moisture in the rope and will lead to mold and rot. You also want the rope 'naked' because it stays soft. It's a rub rail; it's designed to be a cushion and not a visual feature.
I've done both clinking with galvanised iron and copper. The difference that i can feel is that the iron rivets pull the planking together stronger than the copper.
Been watching your videos, absolutely the best, most knowledgeable and clearly explained details on the web. I thank you so much for your generosity in sharing your absolute vast knowledge. You are a gentleman and a scholar. You need no back ground music or theatrics, you are the definition of tutorial videos. Priceless.
I've been building houses for over 20 years. Always custom and with great detail. I'm self trained (however lucky enough to have worked with some great craftsman) and have treated each one like it were a boat or as some say a piano. As I tire of this trade (meaning I can't do this forever) I will sooner or later find myself in the shop building as you do. I enjoy your character and work so thanks for sharing!
Your videos are great . Thank you! I don't build boats, but I do weld and fabrocate. Find these videos educational and thorough
well made video, no stupid muzak , clear instructions. will be rope rubrailing my dinghy. thanx bro
Can't quit watching this. Incredible!
Very very Nice job as always!!!👍💯👌
Nice look & it works. Like it. Thank You for sharing. Vinny
How would a rope rub-rail have been applied 100 yeas ago before modern adhesives? I also like the sledge-and-punch bucking iron, that makes a great shock-absorbing mass that's still light enough to move around.
Amazing guy!!!What about when it gets wet? This rope shrinks a lot.
People are starting to learn to trust the experts, kudos to the educated
That is a perdy boat. Was epoxy developed just for boats originally? What was used before? Thanks.
he has the best words
Nice detail.
how is the rope finished off, is it just cut off and covered by the leather at the transom?
Very nice
Such beautiful hands. :o)
it's a great look -- though I do have to ask....if you're going to peen over the cut end of the copper nail, do you really need to use a rasp on it first???
According to another video of his he files it because the pincers leave a bevelled cut. By making it flat first it will make it easier to peen the end over evenly and neatly.
I've built two small clink boats where the hull is fastened with copper rivets. And i would say no you dont need to rasp it first. It is easy enough to get smooth rivets if you just practice. The most inportant thing to get a smooth rivet is to cut the nail off as close as you can to the roe. And the time that it takes having another tool to work with when riveting is not worth it if you are going to put about 600 rivets in a boat.
Nice!
What design is the dinghy
Do you varnish the manila rope?
No. If you do, it will trap moisture in the rope and will lead to mold and rot. You also want the rope 'naked' because it stays soft. It's a rub rail; it's designed to be a cushion and not a visual feature.
Imagine having to clinker build a boat with iron nails. That's a lot of hammering
steel/iron peens nicely, copper peens exquisitely.
I've done both clinking with galvanised iron and copper. The difference that i can feel is that the iron rivets pull the planking together stronger than the copper.
The fingernails and hands say Louis walks the walk.
I did something like this a month ago with plans from Woodglut.
Make it wooden with the help of the Stodoys instructions.
I was born in the wrong family, state, town, time...