Back in the day all we ever used to build many houses over the course of twenty years all we used were a 10mm corded drill ,hi torque 13mm hamjer drill ,7 1/4" saw ,9 1/4 " saw and a 10" drop saw all corded and all Makita ,they never quit .
Hey, thanks for putting this up. I am a DeWalt guy but I am also a guy who will never say "no" to having an extra drill lying around. So, when a friend's father in law gave this drill to me (built in 95), I said "thank you" and put it in my toolbox. So, it has been my "spare" ever since. I just got curious as to what it was, and then...thanks to the magic of youtube...now I know. Thanks brother.
You made me take a look at my first Makita drill I bought 40 years ago. 10mm drill, Model DP3720, 2.7A at 0-1800 RPM! Metal chuck, very nice cord. As an added bonus it has the original aqua color instead of the current bluish ones. I like the original color much more than the new color. Love your vids, first thing I watch every day!
I just bought one of these in its original box in mint condition for $50, and I'm so pleased with it. I have never felt a smoother spinning keyless drill chuck. From the closed position, I can give it a quick spin, and it will open all the way to 3/8". That's crazy. I bought this because I can't find any modern cordless drills that don't have an insane amount of runout. This 6406 seems to be perfectly straight, the runout is imperceptible to the eye, and that's all I need. Now I need a 3/4" or 1" model. I'd be delighted to see a comparison of the runout of these old drills, as I'm super curious which ones were the best. Obviously, anything with Jacobs chucks are usually pretty good, but I'm sure there's other hidden gems out there. I can't think of another metric that hurts the performance of a drill as much as runout- not only does it give you oblong holes, but it takes a substantial amount of energy away from the point of the drill bit.
I don't care how good battery technology gets, nothing beats a well made corded tool! Especially, if you value price, power, reliability, and weight OVER convenience...
well said. i seriously see cordless tools only good for quick tasks. i worked at a construction site and work would constant stall when batteries run out and you have to wait for batteries to recharge.
I am of the opinion that the heavy spring provides enough resistance to ensure a positive retention of the desired rpm when the speed variable is achieved solely via trigger manipulation.
Great review/info btw! Certainly not the ever present spec list recitation type of pointless review. I own a 6406 from 3/95 and a 6408 produced in 6/98 that was still made in Buford, Georgia.
Back in the day all we ever used to build many houses over the course of twenty years all we used were a 10mm corded drill ,hi torque 13mm hamjer drill ,7 1/4" saw ,9 1/4 " saw and a 10" drop saw all corded and all Makita ,they never quit .
Hey, thanks for putting this up.
I am a DeWalt guy but I am also a guy who will never say "no" to having an extra drill lying around. So, when a friend's father in law gave this drill to me (built in 95), I said "thank you" and put it in my toolbox.
So, it has been my "spare" ever since. I just got curious as to what it was, and then...thanks to the magic of youtube...now I know.
Thanks brother.
I have the same model and it has never failed to me, it packs a punch even after years of use.
You made me take a look at my first Makita drill I bought 40 years ago. 10mm drill, Model DP3720, 2.7A at 0-1800 RPM! Metal chuck, very nice cord. As an added bonus it has the original aqua color instead of the current bluish ones. I like the original color much more than the new color. Love your vids, first thing I watch every day!
I just bought one of these in its original box in mint condition for $50, and I'm so pleased with it. I have never felt a smoother spinning keyless drill chuck. From the closed position, I can give it a quick spin, and it will open all the way to 3/8". That's crazy. I bought this because I can't find any modern cordless drills that don't have an insane amount of runout. This 6406 seems to be perfectly straight, the runout is imperceptible to the eye, and that's all I need. Now I need a 3/4" or 1" model. I'd be delighted to see a comparison of the runout of these old drills, as I'm super curious which ones were the best. Obviously, anything with Jacobs chucks are usually pretty good, but I'm sure there's other hidden gems out there. I can't think of another metric that hurts the performance of a drill as much as runout- not only does it give you oblong holes, but it takes a substantial amount of energy away from the point of the drill bit.
I don't care how good battery technology gets, nothing beats a well made corded tool! Especially, if you value price, power, reliability, and weight OVER convenience...
well said. i seriously see cordless tools only good for quick tasks. i worked at a construction site and work would constant stall when batteries run out and you have to wait for batteries to recharge.
Picked up a new one yesterday at the local pawnshop. 30 dollars. Made in GA. For a hobby tool it’s a baller
I am of the opinion that the heavy spring provides enough resistance to ensure a positive retention of the desired rpm when the speed variable is achieved solely via trigger manipulation.
Great review/info btw! Certainly not the ever present spec list recitation type of pointless review. I own a 6406 from 3/95 and a 6408 produced in 6/98 that was still made in Buford, Georgia.
I love the 1/2 in version but careful when you stall it ..... It will break your wrist if you don't let go of the trigger!
Yes. Never go full speed unless you are using 2 hands with work gloves and Maybe an additional grip handle just to be extra safe 😉
I'm digging the foot wear!
Those are some classy work boots
Impressive tool.
Wow those are nice!
I love that drill... but the chuck... ooof... that rear ring seems to always come loose.
How's the runout?