Thanks for this video!! Bought a cheap chinese carb, took of my factory carb and installed the china best and after a few months it completely fouled out. Taking it apart the whole bowl corroded and every jet was clogged. So I did the right thing and bought a rebuild kit, took the factory carb and rebuilt it using your video, just got home from a fantastic ride with zero issues. Much appreciated!
That's what I stress to so many guys. It's a shame that the first thing a lot of guys do is to throw away the factory carb, put on the "ching ping" and then there is NO option when it doesn't run right or if you're really lucky the factory carb is still available, ( for $500+ ) and you replace it. Glad to hear about your positive experience and glad my video helped. We will be putting out more but with parts issues haunting us, we have only been able to really do the same things we have videos for already or VERY advanced stuff that needs a ton a special equipment to do. Thanks for watching! Have a great ride!
I have a 2001 400 Yamaha - the carb is almost identical with this one. I looked at a lot of youtube videos on rebuilding this particular carb and this was the best - I appeciated the explanation of what the different components did...
Very good video. 03 660 grizzly keeps backfiring, only runs on choke, off choke it will idle somewhat but won’t let me give it throttle without backfiring and dying. New jug, new piston, valves in spec, new timing chain, valves lapped, at first had the camshaft 180 off😂 but still ran good. Same issues as above. It’s driving me nuts. Put the carb back in sonic cleaner and will try again. Thinking my float height maybe off too. But about to address it tomorrow.
That sounds like a classic clogged pilot (low speed) jet, it has a tiny hole and many think it doesn't actually have one, trust me, it does and it must have for it to start and idle correctly.
Wow - wonderful description of each item in the carb, how and why it works. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. I just purchased a '98 600 Grizzly and expect to do this job.
Oh....where was this video 3 years ago? The quality of rebuild videos were so terrible that I just decided to buy a cheap clone that has never worked right. Thank you for describing the float height, and all the different circuits. Very helpful. Thank you very much.
Very informative video . I screwed up before I found this video.I thought there was a jet under the brass cap at back of carb and started drilling it out thinking it was a plug with a jet underneath.Pretty sure I just messed up my carb.Anyhow thank you for a great video!!
You might not have screwed it up. There is a brass cap near the throat of the carb on the bottom near where it connects to the intake manifold. It should be round and protrudes from the body maybe a half inch or so. That is the pilot mixture screw ( they are capped off from the factory ), if the carb has never been cleaned, or properly cleaned, that factory plug could still be intact. If this is the plug you are talking about just gently drill through it, don't use much force. Once you get a hole all the way through it, use a coarse thread screw to remove the plug, after that, you should see a slotted screw head under it, remove that screw, along with the spring, washer and tiny o-ring. If you don't see the washer and o-ring, use the course thread screw and "screw" it back into the hole just a bit, it should grab the washer and o-ring and you can remove them and clean the port. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
thanks Ineeded the review, just to make sure/. they add extra parts/ in my case wrong kit So SAVE all your parts, and compare . Thanks for the Great teaching Lesson!!! Dan
A very accurate and technical video, great job! I was wondering what you think of sea foam and similar products? Based on what you found in the carb bowl and jets I doubt that such products will work on that green sludge. I am interested to hear an expert opinion though.
Thank you for the nice comments. I will tell you like I tell everybody, if the jets aren't completely clogged, Seafoam "might" work, but if they are completely clogged, nothing is going through them, including the Seafoam. Using Seafoam as a periodic additive is not a bad idea to help maintain a good running machine, but in 35 years, I have never seen a "miracle in a bottle" make a non-running engine run all by itself.
This is a really excellent video on this particular carb. Too bad your camera battery died as making sure the needle stack is reassembled correctly is pretty important. Thank you for sharing your expertise! Great video.
This is an amazing high quality video! Was able to follow set by step and be completely confident in my rebuild! Thank you so much! Liked and Subscribed!
I'm not that familiar with automotive carbs, but I believe that some SU carbs have emulsion tubes as well. It is uncommon as a rule to find them in automotive applications though.
Thank you. We try to be as visible as possible. I would recommend the kit from All Balls Racing, part # is 26-1407, website is www.allballsracing.com. Thanks for watching! Your support is vital to allow us to continue to bring the best DIY content out there.
Thank you for your excellent video. I have a 2004 Grizzly that stopped running with its original carb. The bike will run with a new AM carb, albeit with poor throttle response. I have rebuilt the oem Mikuni carb with an oem Mikuni kit and can’t get the bike to run. It seems like the Venturi slide isn’t opening. Any help you can provide?
Thanks for watching! Now, your slide is operated by engine vacuum but is in a "ported" configuration. What does that mean you ask? I'll explain, ported vacuum sources on engines are ones that supply MORE vacuum under acceleration rather than most of the other sources that will basically fall to zero when the butterfly opens. This is achieved on your engine by 2 small holes on the bottom (needle side) of the slide itself, as the butterfly opens, the engine attempts to pull an increasing volume of air into it, as this happens, high speed air rushes past those 2 little holes, drawing out the air above the slide diaphragm and creating an area of low pressure, this lifts the slide and the needle allowing the engine to get both more air and fuel. This system is very efficient and works flawlessly as long as, 1. The diaphragm is intact, it should be soft and flexible with no cracks or tears. 2. The slide is not physically hanging up in the bore of the carb, you should be able to push up the slide and it will return freely all the way to the bottom. 3. There are no vacuum leaks between the carb and the engine, this is usually a cracked or delaminated intake manifold (common on Yamaha) or a bad O-ring behind the manifold $. Lastly, if your engine will not start at all or is very difficult to start even under full choke and/or has a tendency to "run away" or rev very high by itself and then spit and sputter and die or idle very rough, many times with a noticeable back fire, you may have a tight intake valve that is not closing all the way or is closing late due to tight clearance. Check your valve clearances, Intake should be .004 and exhaust should be .006. Check those things and let me know what you find. We'll get your machine running again!
What about the main nozzle in the carb bore? It seems to be able to be replaced in either direction. One side is a square cut, and the other is cupped. The needle goes into the part I am referring to. Am I correct in the assumption that the cupped/parabolic relieved side goes into the bore?
@@albertferrara4139 The rounded end goes towards the emulsifier tube (main jet holder) facing down, the cupped part does go into the bore, otherwise facing up.
Lol i just went thru this pulled the carb like 10 times until i relized this and its almost press fit so you dont even think it should go in you have to have it right inline and pretty much press it in @JWSRepairServiceLLC
Unfortunately it doesn't work that way. If the carb cannot be submerged (vatted) in a detergent, the air passages that are cast into the body of the carb cannot be cleaned and they are just as critical to proper running as the fuel jets. Thanks for watching!
It's called ChemiClean but is only available for commercial use. A consumer version would be something along the lines of Berryman Chemtool dip in a can, I believe Gunk makes a similar product as well. Thanks for watching!
Need to ask a question first, Was it doing this BEFORE the carb was cleaned? If so, there is a good chance it wasn't a carb issue to start with and more troubleshooting needs to be done. If it wasn't doing this before, there is most likely an issue with the slide in the carb not opening, either at all or only part of the way. This can be because of the slide physically sticking and/or a hole/tear in the rubber diaphragm.
It is normal. The castings they use for these carburetors are multi-purpose so to speak. On other makes and models there is a bowl heater that screws into that hole, typically on Hondas.
So my carb looks identical to this, but where the mixture screw is on the one you rebuilt, I have a brass cap and I cannot adjust the air/fuel mixture. I rebuilt my carburetor for the same reason. It had been sitting and the fuel had turned into green goop. I used the same kit as you and I'm still having issues with idle causing backfiring. Any ideas?
That cap is actually a plug that is covering the mixture screw. It must be carefully drilled through and extracted. I use a 3/16 drill bit and a course thread sheet metal or drywall screw to remove these. You must be gentle though, do not use excessive pressure of the bit while drilling or you will drill through the cap and into the mixture screw beneath it. The kit does come with a new one, but without a slot in the screw if you drill too far, it will be nearly impossible to remove it. Once you get the plug and screw out, spray through the hole where the screw was and make sure you get flow back through the pilot jet and the idle port in the throat of the carb. Take your time and good luck! Thanks for watching!!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC awesome! I just read on a forum where someone mentioned having to drill it, but thank you so much for the great description on what to do!
@@raptorcustomembroidery3927 No problem, I make these videos to help people get back on the road or off-road, of course we do make our living repairing them as well, so sometimes it may seem that giving out "trade secrets" could be counter-productive, but in many cases by detailing out what it takes to do a particular repair, it actually saves people money by NOT doing it themselves because you might not really have what is required to do it correctly, something gets damaged or broken and it ends up costing tons more money. I need to make a video specifically on removing that plug, however, since we are a service only center and not a dealership we usually only see machines that are a few years old and those plugs are already gone, but I will make sure to video the next one we come across.
About my 4th time with that carb out. Had a bad gas situation. Got it cleaned out and running on choke but would not idle. Thought the pilot jet was the problem. Bought a similar carb kit (kimpex) put it together with your help -thank you very much but still no idle none at all. Pilot screw at 2.5 turns out. It was sonically cleaned and could see three clear streams when blowing carb cleaner through the pilot circut. I am about to throw in the towel and get it serviced. Is there anything I’m missing?
@@kansascityshuffle8526 There are a few things that can cause this, first off, is the idle just set too low? Turn the stop screw in until it just barely opens the throttle blade, start and fine tune the idle to around 1100 rpm +/- 100. Vacuum leaks can also cause a problem, Yamaha has well documented issues with their intake manifolds. You can also back the pilot screw out another full turn if necessary, 2.5 turns is a base setting and we normally have to adjust richer or leaner when we start them up. There are many other issues that can cause this as well, but these would be the most likely for your situation.
Am I the only person that’s having trouble getting the choke cable disconnected from the carb? I’m scared I’m gonna tear something up. Any advice anyone?
You aren't even the only one, this is a common issue. What we do is, unscrew the nut from the carb, this will give you a small gap behind the plunger, you should be able to see the spring. Spray a penetrating lubricant generously into this gap, let it sit for as long as it takes for the plunger to loosen up and come out. In a worse case scenario, you may just have to break the cable and/or plunger to get them out, which of course would require replacement of those items.
PLEASE rebuild!, The 'el cheapo ching ping knockoff's you see online "say" they fit everything, however, 99% of the time, while they may "fit" they don't work. Throttle linkages/cables won't attach, jets are wrong and even if it all appears to be the same, the machine just won't run right. We take-off the 'el cheapo's and rebuild the factory carbs all the time because of these reasons. Sometimes the customer has thrown away the factory carb and there isn't much we can do, IF you can get the factory carb they run anywhere form $300-$600! Thanks for watching!
Never understood why Yamaha chose the placement of the pilot screw at the bottom of the carb so close to the engine that you have to be a contortionist to get it adjusted.
Thank you for your comment. I am also glad that you brought up this topic. It is indeed a fact that cheap, Chinese reproductions of carburetors are readily available for a wide range of powersports equipment, the main issue with these replacements is that they are "will fit". This means that while they may fit into the intake manifold and air box openings, the internal plumbing and architecture may or may not be compatible with your machines requirements. I have found that most of these "will fit" carbs, require modifications to throttle operation, to me that is a non-starter. Altering throttle mechanisms is a good way to get yourself injured or worse. Some machines will NEVER run right with these reproductions installed, as they just aren't right for the engine. We replace several of these "will fit's" a month with the factory carbs to restore normal running. Feel free to try them, just do NOT toss your factory carb in the trash!, there is a very good chance you will need it. Good luck!
Thanks for this video!! Bought a cheap chinese carb, took of my factory carb and installed the china best and after a few months it completely fouled out. Taking it apart the whole bowl corroded and every jet was clogged. So I did the right thing and bought a rebuild kit, took the factory carb and rebuilt it using your video, just got home from a fantastic ride with zero issues. Much appreciated!
That's what I stress to so many guys. It's a shame that the first thing a lot of guys do is to throw away the factory carb, put on the "ching ping" and then there is NO option when it doesn't run right or if you're really lucky the factory carb is still available, ( for $500+ ) and you replace it. Glad to hear about your positive experience and glad my video helped. We will be putting out more but with parts issues haunting us, we have only been able to really do the same things we have videos for already or VERY advanced stuff that needs a ton a special equipment to do. Thanks for watching! Have a great ride!
I have a 2001 400 Yamaha - the carb is almost identical with this one. I looked at a lot of youtube videos on rebuilding this particular carb and this was the best - I appeciated the explanation of what the different components did...
Very good video. 03 660 grizzly keeps backfiring, only runs on choke, off choke it will idle somewhat but won’t let me give it throttle without backfiring and dying. New jug, new piston, valves in spec, new timing chain, valves lapped, at first had the camshaft 180 off😂 but still ran good. Same issues as above. It’s driving me nuts. Put the carb back in sonic cleaner and will try again. Thinking my float height maybe off too. But about to address it tomorrow.
That sounds like a classic clogged pilot (low speed) jet, it has a tiny hole and many think it doesn't actually have one, trust me, it does and it must have for it to start and idle correctly.
Wow - wonderful description of each item in the carb, how and why it works. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. I just purchased a '98 600 Grizzly and expect to do this job.
I'm glad it helped! The 600 carb is very similar, but it takes a different kit. Thanks for watching!! Good luck with your repairs!
A educated expert,,,this is well appreciated, No Funky music or self boosting,,,Thank You Sir.
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the vid and the step by step process with explanation of EVERYTHING. Thanks again.. GREAT vid
Glad it was helpful!
Oh....where was this video 3 years ago? The quality of rebuild videos were so terrible that I just decided to buy a cheap clone that has never worked right. Thank you for describing the float height, and all the different circuits. Very helpful. Thank you very much.
Glad I could help, I have much more content to post but right now the shop is PACKED and by the time I get home I just want to relax.
Excellent video
Very informative video . I screwed up before I found this video.I thought there was a jet under the brass cap at back of carb and started drilling it out thinking it was a plug with a jet underneath.Pretty sure I just messed up my carb.Anyhow thank you for a great video!!
You might not have screwed it up. There is a brass cap near the throat of the carb on the bottom near where it connects to the intake manifold. It should be round and protrudes from the body maybe a half inch or so. That is the pilot mixture screw ( they are capped off from the factory ), if the carb has never been cleaned, or properly cleaned, that factory plug could still be intact. If this is the plug you are talking about just gently drill through it, don't use much force. Once you get a hole all the way through it, use a coarse thread screw to remove the plug, after that, you should see a slotted screw head under it, remove that screw, along with the spring, washer and tiny o-ring. If you don't see the washer and o-ring, use the course thread screw and "screw" it back into the hole just a bit, it should grab the washer and o-ring and you can remove them and clean the port. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Thanks. I'm about to do this on my 2003 Griz.
thanks Ineeded the review, just to make sure/. they add extra parts/ in my case wrong kit So SAVE all your parts, and compare . Thanks for the Great teaching Lesson!!! Dan
Good point!
Awesome video thank you
Thanks for watching
A very accurate and technical video, great job! I was wondering what you think of sea foam and similar products? Based on what you found in the carb bowl and jets I doubt that such products will work on that green sludge. I am interested to hear an expert opinion though.
Thank you for the nice comments. I will tell you like I tell everybody, if the jets aren't completely clogged, Seafoam "might" work, but if they are completely clogged, nothing is going through them, including the Seafoam. Using Seafoam as a periodic additive is not a bad idea to help maintain a good running machine, but in 35 years, I have never seen a "miracle in a bottle" make a non-running engine run all by itself.
I have a 660 with the carb leaking fuel like crazy. Got the kit will follow your video. Thanks.
Thank you awesome video ,much respect from 🇨🇦
Thank you great explanation in video help us best video by far on carbs thanks again
Glad it helped!
This is a really excellent video on this particular carb. Too bad your camera battery died as making sure the needle stack is reassembled correctly is pretty important. Thank you for sharing your expertise! Great video.
I am going to video another one very similar to that to show the reassembly process better. P.S. I have a second battery now!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC did you make the better video? Thanks for this one btw!
This is an amazing high quality video! Was able to follow set by step and be completely confident in my rebuild! Thank you so much! Liked and Subscribed!
You're very welcome!
Excellent video and explanation!
Thank you!
Rochester Carbs have emulsion tubes, so they are used on automobile application.
I'm not that familiar with automotive carbs, but I believe that some SU carbs have emulsion tubes as well. It is uncommon as a rule to find them in automotive applications though.
Nicely done video. Which kit do you recommend for 2005 grizzly 660?
Thank you. We try to be as visible as possible. I would recommend the kit from All Balls Racing, part # is 26-1407, website is www.allballsracing.com. Thanks for watching! Your support is vital to allow us to continue to bring the best DIY content out there.
Thank you for your excellent video.
I have a 2004 Grizzly that stopped running with its original carb. The bike will run with a new AM carb, albeit with poor throttle response.
I have rebuilt the oem Mikuni carb with an oem Mikuni kit and can’t get the bike to run. It seems like the Venturi slide isn’t opening.
Any help you can provide?
Thanks for watching! Now, your slide is operated by engine vacuum but is in a "ported" configuration. What does that mean you ask? I'll explain, ported vacuum sources on engines are ones that supply MORE vacuum under acceleration rather than most of the other sources that will basically fall to zero when the butterfly opens. This is achieved on your engine by 2 small holes on the bottom (needle side) of the slide itself, as the butterfly opens, the engine attempts to pull an increasing volume of air into it, as this happens, high speed air rushes past those 2 little holes, drawing out the air above the slide diaphragm and creating an area of low pressure, this lifts the slide and the needle allowing the engine to get both more air and fuel. This system is very efficient and works flawlessly as long as, 1. The diaphragm is intact, it should be soft and flexible with no cracks or tears. 2. The slide is not physically hanging up in the bore of the carb, you should be able to push up the slide and it will return freely all the way to the bottom. 3. There are no vacuum leaks between the carb and the engine, this is usually a cracked or delaminated intake manifold (common on Yamaha) or a bad O-ring behind the manifold $. Lastly, if your engine will not start at all or is very difficult to start even under full choke and/or has a tendency to "run away" or rev very high by itself and then spit and sputter and die or idle very rough, many times with a noticeable back fire, you may have a tight intake valve that is not closing all the way or is closing late due to tight clearance. Check your valve clearances, Intake should be .004 and exhaust should be .006. Check those things and let me know what you find. We'll get your machine running again!
What about the main nozzle in the carb bore? It seems to be able to be replaced in either direction. One side is a square cut, and the other is cupped. The needle goes into the part I am referring to. Am I correct in the assumption that the cupped/parabolic relieved side goes into the bore?
@@albertferrara4139 The rounded end goes towards the emulsifier tube (main jet holder) facing down, the cupped part does go into the bore, otherwise facing up.
Lol i just went thru this pulled the carb like 10 times until i relized this and its almost press fit so you dont even think it should go in you have to have it right inline and pretty much press it in @JWSRepairServiceLLC
Can you clean a carburetor while still on the machine don't have anyone around here that wants to take it apart and rebuild it
Unfortunately it doesn't work that way. If the carb cannot be submerged (vatted) in a detergent, the air passages that are cast into the body of the carb cannot be cleaned and they are just as critical to proper running as the fuel jets. Thanks for watching!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC thanks for your honesty
What is the product you used for the carb dip??
It's called ChemiClean but is only available for commercial use. A consumer version would be something along the lines of Berryman Chemtool dip in a can, I believe Gunk makes a similar product as well. Thanks for watching!
I did the rebuild and now it seems like it’s limiting my rpms or something around 20mph and won’t let me go faster. What could I have messed up?
Need to ask a question first, Was it doing this BEFORE the carb was cleaned? If so, there is a good chance it wasn't a carb issue to start with and more troubleshooting needs to be done. If it wasn't doing this before, there is most likely an issue with the slide in the carb not opening, either at all or only part of the way. This can be because of the slide physically sticking and/or a hole/tear in the rubber diaphragm.
at 3:05 i guess its normal for screw to be missing on right side ? mine also doesn't have a screw but has threads
It is normal. The castings they use for these carburetors are multi-purpose so to speak. On other makes and models there is a bowl heater that screws into that hole, typically on Hondas.
That's for a heater
So my carb looks identical to this, but where the mixture screw is on the one you rebuilt, I have a brass cap and I cannot adjust the air/fuel mixture. I rebuilt my carburetor for the same reason. It had been sitting and the fuel had turned into green goop. I used the same kit as you and I'm still having issues with idle causing backfiring. Any ideas?
That cap is actually a plug that is covering the mixture screw. It must be carefully drilled through and extracted. I use a 3/16 drill bit and a course thread sheet metal or drywall screw to remove these. You must be gentle though, do not use excessive pressure of the bit while drilling or you will drill through the cap and into the mixture screw beneath it. The kit does come with a new one, but without a slot in the screw if you drill too far, it will be nearly impossible to remove it. Once you get the plug and screw out, spray through the hole where the screw was and make sure you get flow back through the pilot jet and the idle port in the throat of the carb. Take your time and good luck! Thanks for watching!!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC awesome! I just read on a forum where someone mentioned having to drill it, but thank you so much for the great description on what to do!
@@raptorcustomembroidery3927 No problem, I make these videos to help people get back on the road or off-road, of course we do make our living repairing them as well, so sometimes it may seem that giving out "trade secrets" could be counter-productive, but in many cases by detailing out what it takes to do a particular repair, it actually saves people money by NOT doing it themselves because you might not really have what is required to do it correctly, something gets damaged or broken and it ends up costing tons more money. I need to make a video specifically on removing that plug, however, since we are a service only center and not a dealership we usually only see machines that are a few years old and those plugs are already gone, but I will make sure to video the next one we come across.
Main jet is 153.8
Thank you !
What "dip" do you use?
We get ours from NAPA, but you must be a commercial customer to buy it. Thanks for watching!!!
My carb kit came with a seat with a little screen on it old one did not have this should i use that screen?
Yes, use the screen. It will help prevent small items from sticking the valve open. Thanks for the comment and the support!
Thanks i tried but it actually crushed when i tried to set it in.
About my 4th time with that carb out. Had a bad gas situation. Got it cleaned out and running on choke but would not idle. Thought the pilot jet was the problem. Bought a similar carb kit (kimpex) put it together with your help -thank you very much but still no idle none at all. Pilot screw at 2.5 turns out. It was sonically cleaned and could see three clear streams when blowing carb cleaner through the pilot circut. I am about to throw in the towel and get it serviced. Is there anything I’m missing?
@@kansascityshuffle8526 There are a few things that can cause this, first off, is the idle just set too low? Turn the stop screw in until it just barely opens the throttle blade, start and fine tune the idle to around 1100 rpm +/- 100. Vacuum leaks can also cause a problem, Yamaha has well documented issues with their intake manifolds. You can also back the pilot screw out another full turn if necessary, 2.5 turns is a base setting and we normally have to adjust richer or leaner when we start them up. There are many other issues that can cause this as well, but these would be the most likely for your situation.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC ok thanks again going to play with the enrichment and idle screw. I guess if it’s a manifold them I won’t feel so bad.
Is this the same carb as the 2008 660
Unfortunately No, It is very similar but 2006-2008 are different, sorry for the delay, I was building engines today.
I have an 06 and it’s the same carb
Am I the only person that’s having trouble getting the choke cable disconnected from the carb? I’m scared I’m gonna tear something up. Any advice anyone?
You aren't even the only one, this is a common issue. What we do is, unscrew the nut from the carb, this will give you a small gap behind the plunger, you should be able to see the spring. Spray a penetrating lubricant generously into this gap, let it sit for as long as it takes for the plunger to loosen up and come out. In a worse case scenario, you may just have to break the cable and/or plunger to get them out, which of course would require replacement of those items.
We're are you located
We are in Texas, Thanks for watching!
May I ask what would a person have to pay for carb rebuild for a grizzly 660 if I ordered parts and sent to u
@@Gokywildcats11 Our rebuild charge is $175 + freight both ways of course, but I will provide a video of your carb being rebuilt.
Better and rebuild or buy new.
PLEASE rebuild!, The 'el cheapo ching ping knockoff's you see online "say" they fit everything, however, 99% of the time, while they may "fit" they don't work. Throttle linkages/cables won't attach, jets are wrong and even if it all appears to be the same, the machine just won't run right. We take-off the 'el cheapo's and rebuild the factory carbs all the time because of these reasons. Sometimes the customer has thrown away the factory carb and there isn't much we can do, IF you can get the factory carb they run anywhere form $300-$600! Thanks for watching!
Never understood why Yamaha chose the placement of the pilot screw at the bottom of the carb so close to the engine that you have to be a contortionist to get it adjusted.
I hear you, Yamaha isn't the only one that puts the pilot screw in the middle on the bottom. A 90 degree driver certainly helps.
Why go through all this hassle? You can buy brand new carbs on ebay for under 50 bucks.
Thank you for your comment. I am also glad that you brought up this topic. It is indeed a fact that cheap, Chinese reproductions of carburetors are readily available for a wide range of powersports equipment, the main issue with these replacements is that they are "will fit". This means that while they may fit into the intake manifold and air box openings, the internal plumbing and architecture may or may not be compatible with your machines requirements. I have found that most of these "will fit" carbs, require modifications to throttle operation, to me that is a non-starter. Altering throttle mechanisms is a good way to get yourself injured or worse. Some machines will NEVER run right with these reproductions installed, as they just aren't right for the engine. We replace several of these "will fit's" a month with the factory carbs to restore normal running. Feel free to try them, just do NOT toss your factory carb in the trash!, there is a very good chance you will need it. Good luck!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC Great info. Glad I asked. Do you have a kit recommendation?
@@Makitaization www.allballsracing.com , go to the lookup section and enter your machine info and they can send a kit directly to you.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC Thanks!