And just when i thought i have done every mod there is to my 2012 klx 250s i find this. I already have stage 2 jet kit, air box mod, crankcase vent opened, full exhaust, smog crap removed. I hope doing this mod will give me MORE POWER! Great video.
I hope you got to do this mod is does help great but i have even another mod i will post a video on soon to help even more then the cam mod so keep an eye out!
Also for everyone reading there is a fix on the cold start problems if you type in klx250 choke jet enlarge you'll find the forum but this is how you fix it. If you take your carb bowl off your see it has 2 screw in jets which is your main and pilot jet there's a third jet that is press in tho made of brass this is your choke jet so you have to drill it instead of replacing with a larger one. Drill it out to .018 and it says it will fix your cold starts and make it start as easy as a klr650 in the cold. I'm not in a very cold place so i have no need to do this to mine but for those who do have this problem there you go.
No the ACR compression release is in the left end of the cam and it will be in a new position after advancing the EX cam-making the bike hard to start. Forum cam mod threads suggest pressing the old one out, twisting it cw about 1/4" to get it back into it former relationship to the cam/valve
So this is they great thing about 3 of your family members having the same bike! I mod mine to find out if it works and how well! Then i make a video with one of the one bikes! That way i can always give you a how to vid step by step showing how to do it instead of trying to explain how to do it. Have fun everyone!
to viper..ok the acr i understand what you meant now. and no i didnt have to move it at all still starts easy all the time. to thyago i looked up the xlx 350 and its air cooled and as you know the klx is water cooled. so i dont think itwould be agood idea to try and make that work.
Biker Bob hey, I want to do this on my 2019 EFI KLX250. I was wondering how I’m supposed to turn the engine over by hand since these bikes have electric start instead of a kick starter. Also I heard something about popping a spring off the cam or something?
well on my bike the In take valves started tapping the top of the piston when I retarded them so I guess not all bikes are the same. so do it at your own risk.
+scottgrimmy soon as the bike warmed up. I didn't have a lot of carbon build up or anything I pulled it apart and checked it afterwards to make sure everything was OK. and you could just see on the top of the piston where they had just started touching it. but I just took the piston out and took about 5 thousands out of the reliefs and it was good. but come to think of it I did it to 2 of my bikes and only 1 started tapping. maybe the one had thinner jug or head gaskets. but if its been done a lot I guess I just had something odd.
I've just done the cam mod on my EFI KLX250, I just did the inlet cam and it's made a huge difference. Did you not need to move the decompressor when you re-timed the exhaust cam?
Biker Bob hey, I want to do this on my 2019 EFI KLX250. I was wondering how I’m supposed to turn the engine over by hand since these bikes have electric start instead of a kick starter. Also I heard something about popping a spring off?
@@hellfire08 Im currently about to do the MCM mod this to both cams and I hope you did ok with it because that is a basic question in compaired to adjusting the timing. Its the same way you line it up to TDC left side case has 2 plugs one lets you see the T mark and the other is to rotate... Ive heard may say to take the spring off and others say if its the 2nd gen Kawasaki already adjusted it and we dont have to do anything.... The actuall ammount of info on this is quite little....
on the airbox I cut the lid open as you can see and used just the rim of The lid that bolts down to sandwitch a piece of outerwares between the lid and the box. and then also removed the restrictive metal screen thats behind the foam airfilter and where your crank case air breather comes into the airbox i drill those out to a larger hole cause the factory puts a tiny hole in there the causes pressure to back up in your crankcase making it harder for you engine to run higher rpms.
Jared Bridgman How has that worked for you? I'm going back and forth on what to do with the airbox. I know gettingthe KDM snorkle is popular to do. I never really wanted to take that metal screen out just cuz i didn't feel it was worth the (very slight yes) risk of the engine backfiring.
+Jared Bridgman Another question for ya hah. Ive seen mixed things on this. Eventually I want to get a dynojet kit and a new exhaust as well as air filter/airbox mod. Is it bad to do just one of these? As in, the cheapest thing to do would be to get a new air filter and mod the air box. Would only doing just that cause the bike to not run as well until I get bigger jets and exhaust? So basically, haha, if you want to do one of those mods, do you have to do all of them at once?
+Geb Graff well to do the airbox or filter you will surely need to rejet it with the card kit. because when you do those you lessen the vacume on your carb helping it running better and in turn less vacume makes it not pull as much fuel In as it needs making it run lean. which in time will lead to disaster. the exhaust is way more forgiving to being changed. what I saw on these bikes is if you do the exhaust you can get away with drilling the plug on the carb out so you can adjust your idle mixture and pulling the needle out and shiming it up a little since they dont come with adjustable needles.
and then u sad, take care to nothing drop inside" and i let lol! now i need to find that bolt inside the motor and probably dissasembly all that shit :( probably i will do the head porting and maybe a honda xlx 350 piston and a cylinder work ? what do you think?
@@nopnop6259 Your top end is weaker because this mod is a low/mid rpm mod. If anyone is going to be revving the tits of their motor this isnt the mod for you.
sorry dude after looking at your video it looks like you ve done nothing at all the cam alignment is still the same, you've just changed the position of the sprocket position and it is not the exhaust the most important it s the intake.
that's interesting cause I've done this to 3 bikes all I've which where more zippy and had better top speeds after it was done. and messing with either the exhaust or the intake will have an effect on how they run. exhaust being the one to decide how long its holding the expanding exhaust gas's in and intake deciding when it going to close to begin compressing the fuel air mixture and overlap being how long both valves are open which is scavenging the exhaust out of the cylinder. all play a part and any of them being adjusted will change how it runs.
And just when i thought i have done every mod there is to my 2012 klx 250s i find this. I already have stage 2 jet kit, air box mod, crankcase vent opened, full exhaust, smog crap removed. I hope doing this mod will give me MORE POWER! Great video.
I hope you got to do this mod is does help great but i have even another mod i will post a video on soon to help even more then the cam mod so keep an eye out!
@@modman450 hi. Where is this video?
Also for everyone reading there is a fix on the cold start problems if you type in klx250 choke jet enlarge you'll find the forum but this is how you fix it. If you take your carb bowl off your see it has 2 screw in jets which is your main and pilot jet there's a third jet that is press in tho made of brass this is your choke jet so you have to drill it instead of replacing with a larger one. Drill it out to .018 and it says it will fix your cold starts and make it start as easy as a klr650 in the cold. I'm not in a very cold place so i have no need to do this to mine but for those who do have this problem there you go.
No the ACR compression release is in the left end of the cam and it will be in a new position after advancing the EX cam-making the bike hard to start.
Forum cam mod threads suggest pressing the old one out, twisting it cw about 1/4" to get it back into it former relationship to the cam/valve
...or disconnecting it completely...
So this is they great thing about 3 of your family members having the same bike! I mod mine to find out if it works and how well! Then i make a video with one of the one bikes! That way i can always give you a how to vid step by step showing how to do it instead of trying to explain how to do it. Have fun everyone!
someone buy this guy a proper set of allen sockets...
So you moved the gear 2 teeth clockwise on the chain but it equals half a tooth because you changed the hole position?
Intank, lol. How are you rotating your cams and timing chain
how about the intake?
to viper..ok the acr i understand what you meant now. and no i didnt have to move it at all still starts easy all the time. to thyago i looked up the xlx 350 and its air cooled and as you know the klx is water cooled. so i dont think itwould be agood idea to try and make that work.
Biker Bob hey, I want to do this on my 2019 EFI KLX250. I was wondering how I’m supposed to turn the engine over by hand since these bikes have electric start instead of a kick starter. Also I heard something about popping a spring off the cam or something?
Socket on the flywheel bolt will turn the crank for you.
what about the valve clearance? Have you adjusted?
Do both cams. Proven HP on the forums.
well on my bike the In take valves started tapping the top of the piston when I retarded them so I guess not all bikes are the same. so do it at your own risk.
It started tapping? How? When? Lots of guys are reporting no issues...
+scottgrimmy soon as the bike warmed up. I didn't have a lot of carbon build up or anything I pulled it apart and checked it afterwards to make sure everything was OK. and you could just see on the top of the piston where they had just started touching it. but I just took the piston out and took about 5 thousands out of the reliefs and it was good. but come to think of it I did it to 2 of my bikes and only 1 started tapping. maybe the one had thinner jug or head gaskets. but if its been done a lot I guess I just had something odd.
Do you just turned the sprocket two teeth without moving the chain at all correct?
You leave the cam in the same spot and move the chain 2 teeth then change the bolts over to the exhaust holes rather than the intake holes.
Hi
You just mod the exhaust cam ?
I've just done the cam mod on my EFI KLX250, I just did the inlet cam and it's made a huge difference. Did you not need to move the decompressor when you re-timed the exhaust cam?
Biker Bob hey, I want to do this on my 2019 EFI KLX250. I was wondering how I’m supposed to turn the engine over by hand since these bikes have electric start instead of a kick starter. Also I heard something about popping a spring off?
@@hellfire08 Im currently about to do the MCM mod this to both cams and I hope you did ok with it because that is a basic question in compaired to adjusting the timing. Its the same way you line it up to TDC left side case has 2 plugs one lets you see the T mark and the other is to rotate... Ive heard may say to take the spring off and others say if its the 2nd gen Kawasaki already adjusted it and we dont have to do anything.... The actuall ammount of info on this is quite little....
@@imridingwithstoopidohwaiti3948 I actually did it a few day ago and my bike is running awesome
@@imridingwithstoopidohwaiti3948 I pressed out the KACR and removed it completely. Many benefits to this
What about your ACR?
Intank?
what exactly did you do to your airbox? Also, did you switch out your header as well?
on the airbox I cut the lid open as you can see and used just the rim of The lid that bolts down to sandwitch a piece of outerwares between the lid and the box. and then also removed the restrictive metal screen thats behind the foam airfilter and where your crank case air breather comes into the airbox i drill those out to a larger hole cause the factory puts a tiny hole in there the causes pressure to back up in your crankcase making it harder for you engine to run higher rpms.
Jared Bridgman How has that worked for you? I'm going back and forth on what to do with the airbox. I know gettingthe KDM snorkle is popular to do. I never really wanted to take that metal screen out just cuz i didn't feel it was worth the (very slight yes) risk of the engine backfiring.
+Geb Graff it worked awesome for me. never had trouble with it and it ran a lot better.
+Jared Bridgman Another question for ya hah. Ive seen mixed things on this. Eventually I want to get a dynojet kit and a new exhaust as well as air filter/airbox mod. Is it bad to do just one of these? As in, the cheapest thing to do would be to get a new air filter and mod the air box. Would only doing just that cause the bike to not run as well until I get bigger jets and exhaust? So basically, haha, if you want to do one of those mods, do you have to do all of them at once?
+Geb Graff well to do the airbox or filter you will surely need to rejet it with the card kit. because when you do those you lessen the vacume on your carb helping it running better and in turn less vacume makes it not pull as much fuel In as it needs making it run lean. which in time will lead to disaster. the exhaust is way more forgiving to being changed. what I saw on these bikes is if you do the exhaust you can get away with drilling the plug on the carb out so you can adjust your idle mixture and pulling the needle out and shiming it up a little since they dont come with adjustable needles.
Sounds like it's starting to miss and sputter at high revs .
Yep that's called a rev limiter Sir.
No. This gives more low down and mid range power. It noticibly reduces top end power.
Does it reduce top speed? Looking at other comments it looks like people get higher top speed along with a bit more grunt through the mid-range.
and then u sad, take care to nothing drop inside" and i let lol! now i need to find that bolt inside the motor and probably dissasembly all that shit :( probably i will do the head porting and maybe a honda xlx 350 piston and a cylinder work ? what do you think?
i found it just removed the cover of clutch and there it was.
Nice thank for info
I have a video of a completed marcelino cam mod on my 2012 klx 250 efi
share
@@rabidwookie606 I don't have it anymore.
But don't do it it ruined my klx's mpg and it had a weaker pull on the top of the rev range
@@nopnop6259 I heard in cuts slight top end but helps in low and mid.Sorry to hear about the mpg. Others swear by it.
@@nopnop6259 Your top end is weaker because this mod is a low/mid rpm mod. If anyone is going to be revving the tits of their motor this isnt the mod for you.
sorry dude after looking at your video it looks like you ve done nothing at all the cam alignment is still the same, you've just changed the position of the sprocket position and it is not the exhaust the most important it s the intake.
that's interesting cause I've done this to 3 bikes all I've which where more zippy and had better top speeds after it was done. and messing with either the exhaust or the intake will have an effect on how they run. exhaust being the one to decide how long its holding the expanding exhaust gas's in and intake deciding when it going to close to begin compressing the fuel air mixture and overlap being how long both valves are open which is scavenging the exhaust out of the cylinder. all play a part and any of them being adjusted will change how it runs.
Я чё первый?) Нахуя это?
Ну хули я второй...это для увеличения мощности фазу смещают
Klx 250 Bike needs more bottom to mid power.