Now if you also add a pulley to the carabiner your foot loop is connected to, pass the rope from your hip progress capture devices through it and pull down you'll also have ~2:1 assistance and you'll be flying up the wall. E: Eg. you could have used the grigri on your harness for the progress capture at your waist, the same tibloc for an ascender and the micro traxion at your waist as a pulley for 2:1 setup (due to friction more like 1.6:1). E2: That'd also have the benefit that if you need to lower, just remove the micro traxion and tibloc, you'll be left with the grigri in normal rappel setup.
@@novadea1643 You are absolutely right! And even without a pulley, you gain some advantage. That's in a whole different video that is more about the ascension technique (ruclips.net/video/7l1H1k3hPXI/видео.html) than this particular video making a discrete point.
@@ShortGuysBetaWorks Due to friction you won't really get any mechanical advantage as carabiner "as pulley" has less than 50% efficiency, but it'll still give you a nice redirect to pull down on the rope which is much easier.
@@tjb8841 having learned all this stuff (originally) before guide mode and assisted breaking devices were a thing, I can confirm that getting over a true lip with the old school method sucks 😉
@@ShortGuysBetaWorks indeed, when I learned rope ascending using Prussia’s, it’s wasn’t over a lip, and for crevasse rescue, we used the garda, and it was a pain. In the last few years I have been happy to use the new devices, and never thought about the “over the lip” benefit they bring. So thanks for pointing this out.
The issue that you identified with advancing friction hitch up the rope one handed, is a great argument for building the waist prusik from a VT hitch, a locker, and a PAS.
I prefer the VT in a two-friction hitch system, too. The only real downside is that the VT stretches out a lot once weighted, limiting how far up you can move your foot prusik. But I think the upsides outweigh that downside.
Ha! This issue was a total blind spot for me! Since I always learned using some form rope capture device at the waist, I never once encountered this issue! The very first time I climbed a rope, it was free hanging under a ledge. Maybe, 15 feet tall, the ledge was on a the side of a hill in a public, riverside park. We were playing avy beacon hide and seek. Fun day overall.
Admittedly, this is kind of a crusty "trad dad" problem. I've just seen many people who have learned the "old school way," making arguments that it is better because you 'don't need to buy fancy and expensive equipment,' etc. I wanted to call out that it's about more then convenience. It actually is safety.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Now if you also add a pulley to the carabiner your foot loop is connected to, pass the rope from your hip progress capture devices through it and pull down you'll also have ~2:1 assistance and you'll be flying up the wall.
E: Eg. you could have used the grigri on your harness for the progress capture at your waist, the same tibloc for an ascender and the micro traxion at your waist as a pulley for 2:1 setup (due to friction more like 1.6:1).
E2: That'd also have the benefit that if you need to lower, just remove the micro traxion and tibloc, you'll be left with the grigri in normal rappel setup.
@@novadea1643 You are absolutely right! And even without a pulley, you gain some advantage. That's in a whole different video that is more about the ascension technique (ruclips.net/video/7l1H1k3hPXI/видео.html) than this particular video making a discrete point.
@@ShortGuysBetaWorks Due to friction you won't really get any mechanical advantage as carabiner "as pulley" has less than 50% efficiency, but it'll still give you a nice redirect to pull down on the rope which is much easier.
Wow, never thought of this
@@tjb8841 having learned all this stuff (originally) before guide mode and assisted breaking devices were a thing, I can confirm that getting over a true lip with the old school method sucks 😉
@@ShortGuysBetaWorks indeed, when I learned rope ascending using Prussia’s, it’s wasn’t over a lip, and for crevasse rescue, we used the garda, and it was a pain. In the last few years I have been happy to use the new devices, and never thought about the “over the lip” benefit they bring. So thanks for pointing this out.
@@tjb8841 thanks for watching and engaging! 🙏 Have fun out there! ⛰️🧗
The issue that you identified with advancing friction hitch up the rope one handed, is a great argument for building the waist prusik from a VT hitch, a locker, and a PAS.
I prefer the VT in a two-friction hitch system, too. The only real downside is that the VT stretches out a lot once weighted, limiting how far up you can move your foot prusik. But I think the upsides outweigh that downside.
Ha! This issue was a total blind spot for me! Since I always learned using some form rope capture device at the waist, I never once encountered this issue!
The very first time I climbed a rope, it was free hanging under a ledge. Maybe, 15 feet tall, the ledge was on a the side of a hill in a public, riverside park. We were playing avy beacon hide and seek. Fun day overall.
Admittedly, this is kind of a crusty "trad dad" problem. I've just seen many people who have learned the "old school way," making arguments that it is better because you 'don't need to buy fancy and expensive equipment,' etc. I wanted to call out that it's about more then convenience. It actually is safety.
@@ShortGuysBetaWorks fellow crusty trad dad here, but I do own one of them fancy new fangled belay devices that has auto locking (guide) mode. 🤓
@@tjb8841 😁 CTDs Unite!
Normally it's unpractical to redirect the footsling at the belay loop, but it might lift the rope up enough to move the upper prusik.
@@sebamobile9689 interesting idea 🤔