Weatherboard Scribers: How to mark, cut and fit
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Welcome to Ambrant DIY
In this video we'll run you through the basic steps of marking out, cutting and fitting a timber scriber for a Bevel back weatherboard system.
An important part of finishing in the Timber and fibre cement weather board systems - this method will allow you to replace, or install a scriber to complete your cladding system.
If you have any questions please ask or comment below.
Thanks for watching! :) - Please like and share! :)
Best explanation out there. Thank you. I hope you still have all your fingers, mate, and your hearing.
very clear and well explained - the best of other alternatives looked at
Thanks buddy, need to do scribers on our house so this is a great video. Thanks.
This is great. Much better than using the old moulding which isn't a good template if it's a bit rotten or breaks when removing!! I'll use this method from now on.
Thanks for sharing. Awesome video!
Thank you mate < very well explained 👍👍
@@perksperky3812 Glad the video was of help! Cheers 👍🏼
Hume Pine in NZ supply a Pro Scriber pre-cut for various types of weatherboard.
Definitely, there are several options available for pre-cut scribers.. however occasionally with older houses, the weatherboards can often be all over the place with their cover measurement.. so with pre-cut scribers you'll be left with gaps. They're great for building new/replacing cladding, but sometimes its necessary to cut them yourself ;) - thanks!
Very helpful. Thanks heaps👍🏻
Thanks, exactly what I needed. Chhers
Cheers for that my brother will be using your guide to cut scribers with a jigsaw
Glad the video is of help! :)
Great vid, thanks a bunch!
Cheers!
cheers for this vid. helped heaps!
This is a great video!!!
Good video, can you also make one on how to mark and cut a weatherboard gable scriber
+sione ika Thanks for that, Will see what I can do :)
very helpful thank you.
Awesome. Thanks.
G'day mate! I know the videos are old but, any idea how to seal the scriber with no more gaps?
Great video Any ideas how to match up new weather boards with old and what to do if you i cant align the channels on the back with each other due to the spacing of the old ones being different thanks again
Hello!, basically you'd want to try and get a profile that matches as close as possible to what your adding on to. Ideally you'd have the weather grooves line up with each other, at least roughly.. but as long as they've 5mm wide by 5mm deep on their own, a single groove should act singly as protection itself (I hope that makes sense). The other option to get them to line up closer, is to widen the groove using a circular saw and a saw guide. Just set the depth of the blade to what you need (approx 5mm) and run the groove wider - just make sure to re-prime the bare timber afterwards. I hope that helps!
Thanks mate, very useful lesson. I hope you're hearing is still OK though. I could never operate a circular saw w/o earplugs.
Awsome - thanks.
great video. I'm using fiber cement cladding, I have a arched shape door I want to put on my man cave. how would you trim around that.? would I just cut around the door and no trim...?thank you
Hello! - typically up each side of your door you could still have facings (say 70 or 90mm x 18mm timber) with scribers to finish. Over the top however you'd probably have to scribe a piece of plywood to the shape of your door (in an arch shape) and have it cut the same width as the facings you've used below..
Once the facings are in place.. including the plywood arch facing above... you'd need to have a flashing made in an arch shape to finish/seal the top and weatherproof it all to the point the arch shape finishes (and transfers to the straight facings)... I hope that makes sense! :)
Thanks. How did you attach the vertical flat pieces of wood on each side of the garage door?
Hello, they can either be pinned on using a brad gun, and 45(+)mm galv or stainless brads.. or you can use 60-70mm jolt head galv nails... and just make sure to pre-drill to avoid splitting if possible :) - hope that helps!
Hi, I am wanting to cut the scriber for my window with a box frame thing, will I need to set the square 2mm up as you have here?
I think I understand what you mean - your window has a timber 'frame' around it, or timber facing. Even with a frame around it you'll still need to set the square to offset the cut. This simply allows the horizontal cuts (the small side ways cuts) to fit tight up under the weatherboard once finished, otherwise in most cases you'd end up with a gap. I hope that makes sense :) - Thanks!
Thanks for the advice, very helpful :). What would be the best place to buy the scriber timber? (in NZ)
No worries! We usually just use the main hardware stores - Placemakers, Bunnings or Mitre10 should be able to help with supplying Scribers :) - cheers!
hi, can you please show how to do this on Rusticated weather board, Cheers
I'll see what I can do! :)
pretty basic really I use droppie for short cuts then table saw so it cuts excess off but nice vid
Holy shot, can you still hear
If he would just take his sunglasses off! Otherwise a very informative video and I now know how to get rid of that dreadful 2mm gap!
This guy could be wearing a dildo on his face for all I care, he showed me exactly what to do perfectly
I’m the 777th subscriber. Do I win a prize? 😁
😂 why yes! 7 likes for you today Sir! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 - have a great day!
Thanks so much for having taken the time to make this video, exactly what I was after. Cheers.
Cheers, this was exactly what i was looking for.
No worries.. glad the video was what you're after, cheers
Thanks Mr Ambrant. The patches I put into my weatherboard were a slightly different profile, so reusing the old scribe was not an option. This trade skill that you are passing on overcomes that problem. You have made my mountain into a mole hill!
Excellent - Glad you found the video useful! :)
very discriptive and clear. will be using the combo square to get the scribers noce and toght instead of having that 3mm gap i always get using the bottom piece of the weatherboard. cheers
No earmuffs cuzy(although you might have in earplugs I can't see)
Could you please do a video on making scribers for rusticated weatherboards please?
Will see what I can do for you... there are 2 options when it comes to rusticated w/boards. Will try do a video soon to cover both options.. Cheers!
Thanks. Nice video. Good pace. Clear instructions. Well done.
Thanks!
Hey mate just subscribed. Do you run your architraves over the scribes or do just butt them against the architraves? Or have you done both? What's your opinion?
Hello!, you can do it either way if you have the room behind your facings/architraves.. You'd just want a wider jamb if you wanted to run them behind the facings, so you're not just cutting small wedges(if that makes sense). Otherwise 99% of the time I'd but them up to the facings... most weatherboard houses are done this way. Cheers! :)
@@ambrantdiyseries2832 cool thanks for the reply. I'm planning to remove the asbestos brick sheets that is covering weather boards on my house. This detail will be perfect for the Windows because they are sitting about 30mm more passed the weather boards. The only other solution was to remove the Windows and rip down the reveals 30mm and then reinstall which is much much more work. Cheers for saving me time
Im guessing its purpose is to help excess water and bugs etc out is that right?
Exactly!
using this to build a weatherboard mount for lacework - thanks - v.easy to follow!
Hey, thanks a lot. I'll use your method tomorrow.
very helpful, thanks!
Very informative and well-presented. Thanks. Is there a suitable hand saw that could be used? For small jobs, buying a jigsaw may not be worth the expense.
Hello, yes any handsaw from a hardware store should be fine, typically something like a Bahco prizecut are good value and can do good job.. hope that helps!
Thanks for that. I was advised to use a coping saw but it did not cope while I was using it.@@ambrantdiyseries2832
Great guide, I've just cut my scriber following your instructions and it fits perfectly. Thanks.
+Andrew Reynolds - Excellent!, glad the video could help :)
Love the Weatherboard weather strip video - thanks - about to do my large bank yard shed/room and getting varying advice on whether to secret nail the thin end of the boards to the studs, which of course has the nail hidden by the next board, or nail the thick part which of course gets seen. I'm using H3 treaded bind Chamfered boards and would appreciate your comments
Hello, thanks for the comment! - I'll do my best to explain what would be considered standard practice where we are : what we do is to nail the weatherboards through the thicker part lower down. However you need to know your overlap (the two weather grooves should line up best as possible), so lets say overlap is usually around 25mm (depends on the run). The nail should then be placed at around 30-35mm up so NOT to penetrate or cut through the top of the board below, so each board only has the one row of nails, allowing for expansion and contraction. Now sometimes to speed things up, you can mark your studs/framing on your bottom board... and then pin each board on using a brad gun, up where you said you'd secret nail, say every 2nd or 3rd stud.. then once they're all on, plumb up each marked stud line, and drill and nail off your boards using the correct nails. I hope that explains it and helps somewhat! :) Good luck and Cheers!
@@ambrantdiyseries2832 Could you do a follow-up video explaining this better? Thanks
Awesome vid mate! Cheers.
Great Tutorial, thanks!
Awesome, easy as
Wow, thanks, I had no idea what to fill those gaps with. Thanks HEAPS! Now I can fix them. :) :) :)
Glad I could help! cheers :)
What do I do at the corners of the house where weatherboard meets weatherboard? Is there a special cover for that I can make too? hehe :)
Excellent well presented tutorial. I'll be doing mine tomorrow.
Thanks for your comment - glad to help :)
Amazing explanation and demonstration, thorough and very helpful. Thank you.
Genius
Thanks for the lesson
nice...
Scary lack of safety procedures and PPE. Otherwise OK
Great video just done this around 3 windows very simple and worked great cheers
Great resource, Thanks
Thank you!
Great stuff, very useful !
Thank you!
I used a jigsaw to cut my scriber, it was on a house which was built back in the 30's, and the measurements were all over the place, using this method worked well, but had to use "No More Gaps", but once painted looked brilliant. BTW, I shudder when I see you hold your fingers so close to the table saw, I'm scared of those things.
Thanks for the reply! - yes usually no more gaps is a good idea to help seal the join/gaps so not fully reliant on just paint :) glad I could help. And yes - you definitely have to keep your mind on the job and be conscious of every move.. Thanks again!
Hi I just want to ask the question how to work out measurements you say 18mm plus 10mm then you make the scribe 40mm? How do you get 40 mm? I found your explanations very good and I made a scribe but I had to trim it back by 10mm.
Hello!, yes, sorry - it can be a little confusing. So for example lets say the weatherboards are 18mm thick and the joinery sticks out 10mm, that would be a total of 30mm, that would be roughly what we'd want our scribers to be (stock scriber thickness in this case is 40mm), so we'd want to make sure our timber scribe block was the thickness of the weatherboards (18mm) + difference left over from the 40mm scriber stock thickness(10mm). So the block would need to be around 28-30mm, to ensure that amount it cut out from the stock scriber so it fits neatly without too much overhang.. I hope that makes sense! :)
do you have a video on weatherboard corner trim install?
Great video. ...is the bro using earplugs lol.?
Thanks. Very helpful.
This is really nice and directly presented, well done
Thanks hugely helpful.
Too easy. Thanks dude.
I used this video to learn scribers when I was an apprentice and now have them mastered. One thing I find quicker and easier now is to cut the whole thing out on the bench saw no jiggy. Also I measure how far back it needs to go to sit 5mm out from the window flange and cut my scribing block to suit. Great video mate 👍🏻
- Glad you found the video useful! Yes it’s definitely quicker to cut on the bench saw if you’re confident enough 👍🏼 cheers for the comment! 😊
@@ambrantdiyseries2832 lilies and the
Bet Ya Don't remove it to prime it when you paint your house .
Don Don - sure do, everything is primed with oil base before being top coated. Durability is the goal!
Can't understand what u doing
Brilliant video. Best scriber video on youtube In my opinion. Good you showed the jigsaw option for this. I have cut a lot with a jigsaw and still have all my fingers. Cheers
awesome thanks
Cheers!