A few side notes about crimping copper lugs to battery cables - as with everything these days, there's a silly debate about whether to solder a lug and cable or not. Some people believe solder is the only way, while most electricians simply crimp most cable and lug connections. But there are circumstances that apply. There's nothing wrong with soldering your lugs, if you have the means to provide enough heat to do so without damaging the cable insulation and you use a rosin core solder, NOT acid core (that's corrosive to rubber and plastics and is used for copper plumbing, not electrical). That's the problem with soldering. It makes a solid, sealed connection that won't corrode, but the thicker the cable is the more heat it takes to wet it until you get to a point where a standard soldering iron isn't up to the task. Crimping will provide a bond that's as strong if not stronger than solder in some cases, but if tinned copper wire/cable isn't used (which is expensive), then some precaution needs to be taken to prevent the cable from corroding inside the lug later, which all copper does when it's exposed to moisture in the air. You can sand a bare copper conductor clean and shiny, but it will eventually turn green (sooner or later depending on RH levels) and could affect the connection if the mating surfaces aren't married perfectly and air tight. To prevent this, you should use tinned copper lugs, not bare copper lugs. Tinned copper lugs have, of course, a coating of tin on them to seal the copper from the air and they aren't too expensive. The next thing you should use to protect the connection is heat shrink tubing. But not just any kind - you need the stuff that has a layer of glue on the inside surface. It's like hot glue, when heated this will make the final seal between the shrink tubing and the cable/lug connection to keep air and moisture out. Windy Nation sells a variety of battery and welding cables, lugs, shrink tubing and loads of wind and solar gear at windynation.com I'll have the next video for the crosskart build series uploaded in roughly a week, give or take a couple of days. I'll be assembling the P groups for the 11.5 kWh LiFePo4 battery and test fitting them in the crosskart cabin with aluminum cases and the new bucket racing seat from Scat Enterprises. I may test fit the cooling system while I'm at it, if the pump arrives in time.
Little addition. Clamping alone is _theoretically_ speaking a better connection, so you're better off soldering only in assuredly humid areas, always add the heatshrink tubing, if you want to go the extra mile add grease on the connections after mounting all together. About the heatshrink tubing, you can add caulk under it, tested myself, it will work well, grease the connection if the place is exposed to weather or constant humidity.
Yes, dielectric grease. Good point. I've heard of people using petroleum jelly as a substitute. Not a good thing to use around natural rubber but it should be fine for silicone wire and cables.
Soldering lug will suitable only for small pcb works but for Automobile related wiring required crimping wires. And for those who are doing that kind of job your hammer crimping tool will be very useful sir. Your design is simple to make and works too good. Thanks a lot👍🏅
I spent some money on buying a crimper for larger gauge wiring but not that size and hadn't even thought of doing something like you did. Good idea and thanks for sharing!
You could be thinking of a gas MIG. This is gasless flux core. The nozzles on gas MIGs are wider and recessed to allow the gas to envelope the contact tip and flow to the weld piece better. Recessed nozzles aren't required for gasless flux core MIGs, so they can be narrower and shorter to give the user more room to see what they're doing when they're welding. The welding tips are threaded so they can be easily removed and replaced cheaply when necessary.
@@JamesBiggar Yeah sorry if my comment come across like I was calling you out for something, In the fab shops I have worked in we used the run of the mill gas MIG welders, I noticed that the welds are nice and clean because if we ran out of gas our welds would have a lot of contaminants in them. So thanks for info and the comment back I like your videos, One day I hope to do some machining and fabrication in my own little shop. Have a great day buddy.
Not a requirement with sealed lugs - it would be an impediment, actually, as the glue in the shrink tube won't be able to stick to anything and provide a proper seal. Dielectric grease shouldn't be used INSIDE connectors like lugs. Some folks would say just put it on the bare wire only then insert it into the lug and it won't affect the shrink tubing. True, if you're careful enough - but that dielectric grease will affect the connection between the wire and the lug, because it's designed to block conductivity as much as it blocks moisture, NOT enhance it conductivity. Dielectric grease is an insulator. Covering the bare copper with it before installing the lug is akin to wrapping it completely in shrink tubing first. Dielectric grease should only be used on the outside of an exposed connection or wire. Dielectric grease OR adhesive shrink tubing, never both.
IT WOULD HAVE BEEN NICE IF YOU WOULD HAVE GIVEN US THE MEASUREMENTS OF THE METAL PIECES SO US OLD GUYS WOULDN'T HAVE TO GUS I LIKE MAKING THINGS LIKE THIS TOOL. BUT AT THE PRICE OF METAL NOT KNOWING JUST WHAT I NEED TO MAKE THIS, I WILL HAVE TO PASS AND SPEND THE TWENTY BUCKS AND BUY ONE. MAYBE NEXT TIME INCLUDE MORE INFORMATION. GOD BLESS AMERICA MAGA LONG LIVE THE REPUBLIC AND FOR ALL YOU GRUNTS (MARIN) SEMPER FI JUST A THOUGHT GOD BLESS
LOL. I love when people type in all caps to school me on format. You could just go to the link in the video description to get a detailed breakdown and all the measurements if you're having trouble - video descriptions exist for good reason, you should take time to read them. Just a thought. I threw this together with scraps, I didn't even take measurements until it was done. There are two types of people in this world; those who can extrapolate from missing information, and...
A few side notes about crimping copper lugs to battery cables - as with everything these days, there's a silly debate about whether to solder a lug and cable or not. Some people believe solder is the only way, while most electricians simply crimp most cable and lug connections. But there are circumstances that apply.
There's nothing wrong with soldering your lugs, if you have the means to provide enough heat to do so without damaging the cable insulation and you use a rosin core solder, NOT acid core (that's corrosive to rubber and plastics and is used for copper plumbing, not electrical). That's the problem with soldering. It makes a solid, sealed connection that won't corrode, but the thicker the cable is the more heat it takes to wet it until you get to a point where a standard soldering iron isn't up to the task.
Crimping will provide a bond that's as strong if not stronger than solder in some cases, but if tinned copper wire/cable isn't used (which is expensive), then some precaution needs to be taken to prevent the cable from corroding inside the lug later, which all copper does when it's exposed to moisture in the air. You can sand a bare copper conductor clean and shiny, but it will eventually turn green (sooner or later depending on RH levels) and could affect the connection if the mating surfaces aren't married perfectly and air tight. To prevent this, you should use tinned copper lugs, not bare copper lugs. Tinned copper lugs have, of course, a coating of tin on them to seal the copper from the air and they aren't too expensive. The next thing you should use to protect the connection is heat shrink tubing. But not just any kind - you need the stuff that has a layer of glue on the inside surface. It's like hot glue, when heated this will make the final seal between the shrink tubing and the cable/lug connection to keep air and moisture out. Windy Nation sells a variety of battery and welding cables, lugs, shrink tubing and loads of wind and solar gear at windynation.com
I'll have the next video for the crosskart build series uploaded in roughly a week, give or take a couple of days. I'll be assembling the P groups for the 11.5 kWh LiFePo4 battery and test fitting them in the crosskart cabin with aluminum cases and the new bucket racing seat from Scat Enterprises. I may test fit the cooling system while I'm at it, if the pump arrives in time.
Might you do a video on a diy metal bender, I think it had a blade that bent the metal?
I can't remember.
@@marz.6102 Done. ruclips.net/video/eqpRH8Zflz4/видео.html
@@JamesBiggar oh thx
Little addition.
Clamping alone is _theoretically_ speaking a better connection, so you're better off soldering only in assuredly humid areas, always add the heatshrink tubing, if you want to go the extra mile add grease on the connections after mounting all together.
About the heatshrink tubing, you can add caulk under it, tested myself, it will work well, grease the connection if the place is exposed to weather or constant humidity.
Yes, dielectric grease. Good point. I've heard of people using petroleum jelly as a substitute. Not a good thing to use around natural rubber but it should be fine for silicone wire and cables.
Soldering lug will suitable only for small pcb works but for Automobile related wiring required crimping wires. And for those who are doing that kind of job your hammer crimping tool will be very useful sir. Your design is simple to make and works too good. Thanks a lot👍🏅
I spent some money on buying a crimper for larger gauge wiring but not that size and hadn't even thought of doing something like you did. Good idea and thanks for sharing!
Good idea for bench vise or hydraulic press too! Good job.
very beautiful, i want one like that, welcome to vietnam
Nice. Gonna make me one next.
Well done!
Good stuff. Thank you James.
Thank you teacher we learn to this lesson
Another great video!! Seems like you could pop that jig into your hydraulic press (just for fun)
Nice job!
Thanks!
Дякую. Обов'язково скористаюсь.
Всі етапи наглядно показано.
З повагою та вдячністю.
Muito bom, fiz um, obrigado por compartilhar
Need a tool, make a tool. Nice!
Great idea.. I want to make something for Pipe ferrules so I don’t have to use jubilee clips
so cool
Круто!!! Спасибо за видео!!!
Gracias por compartir el video muy útil
Nice
Can you make a multi gym , bro !?! 🤙
Nice..
why don't you have a nozzle gaurd on the welder? I think thats what it is called. nice project.
You could be thinking of a gas MIG. This is gasless flux core. The nozzles on gas MIGs are wider and recessed to allow the gas to envelope the contact tip and flow to the weld piece better. Recessed nozzles aren't required for gasless flux core MIGs, so they can be narrower and shorter to give the user more room to see what they're doing when they're welding. The welding tips are threaded so they can be easily removed and replaced cheaply when necessary.
@@JamesBiggar Yeah sorry if my comment come across like I was calling you out for something, In the fab shops I have worked in we used the run of the mill gas MIG welders, I noticed that the welds are nice and clean because if we ran out of gas our welds would have a lot of contaminants in them. So thanks for info and the comment back I like your videos, One day I hope to do some machining and fabrication in my own little shop. Have a great day buddy.
Szép munka. Szuper!
SUPER
hey broo
dielectric grease?
Not a requirement with sealed lugs - it would be an impediment, actually, as the glue in the shrink tube won't be able to stick to anything and provide a proper seal. Dielectric grease shouldn't be used INSIDE connectors like lugs. Some folks would say just put it on the bare wire only then insert it into the lug and it won't affect the shrink tubing. True, if you're careful enough - but that dielectric grease will affect the connection between the wire and the lug, because it's designed to block conductivity as much as it blocks moisture, NOT enhance it conductivity. Dielectric grease is an insulator. Covering the bare copper with it before installing the lug is akin to wrapping it completely in shrink tubing first. Dielectric grease should only be used on the outside of an exposed connection or wire. Dielectric grease OR adhesive shrink tubing, never both.
@@JamesBiggar oh I see... Love your work!
IT WOULD HAVE BEEN NICE IF YOU WOULD HAVE GIVEN US THE MEASUREMENTS OF THE METAL PIECES SO US OLD GUYS WOULDN'T HAVE TO GUS I LIKE MAKING THINGS LIKE THIS TOOL. BUT AT THE PRICE OF METAL NOT KNOWING JUST WHAT I NEED TO MAKE THIS, I WILL HAVE TO PASS AND SPEND THE TWENTY BUCKS AND BUY ONE. MAYBE NEXT TIME INCLUDE MORE INFORMATION. GOD BLESS AMERICA MAGA LONG LIVE THE REPUBLIC AND FOR ALL YOU GRUNTS (MARIN) SEMPER FI JUST A THOUGHT GOD BLESS
LOL. I love when people type in all caps to school me on format. You could just go to the link in the video description to get a detailed breakdown and all the measurements if you're having trouble - video descriptions exist for good reason, you should take time to read them. Just a thought. I threw this together with scraps, I didn't even take measurements until it was done. There are two types of people in this world; those who can extrapolate from missing information, and...
me tacktik.