Watched all 4 of these episodes and have to say your explanations as you are fixing is very clear and concise. Great work doing these videos, very helpful for those of us who have a Vaillant
I came across your videos today and I think i've got a similar problem, where the hot water is going really hot and then cold intermittently on a Vaillant 837 ecotec R1. Your videos are an excellent diagnosis of the problem and are clear with enough information to help even a novice! Thanks again mate!
What a brilliant tip regarding the garden sprayer. Cleared an heat ex on a duo-Tec today that was kettling like a good un.. Best tip I've ever come across. Thanks Ollie
Hello mate, discovered your four videos (thus far) and been binge watching them (hours worth). What an inspiration, fully immersed in every 'episode' thanks for taking the time to uploading them, can't wait for the final 'grand finale'. Forget Game of Thrones !!!😁
Thanks so much for you vids on this boiler. I’m now retired but was a technician on North Thames Gas, the first combi I worked on was an open flue Vaillant, back in the early 70’s, it was totally mechanical only had a pump on the flow as I remember. Been watching your vids as I have a Vaillant 831 giving me problems but BG are coming tomorrow.
I repaired a combi compact by re soldering the the obsolete PCB. I put photos onto instagram. :-) It was a great job. That customer will never use anyone else.
Really enjoyed your videos. I am not a plumber but had a few problems trying to figure out. Thanks. Subscribed even though not what I need, excellent tuition!
Great to see you at it again..The successes I have had on those boilers and hex have been by adding Fx2 or if you want to go Nuts use Scale-breaker Fx but you must only run it in the boiler..then flush it throughly out as The later has a tendancy to stay in the system..Which then means you need to flush all the system out and check the Ph balance and ensure that there is No residue left. Im sure with all the spares Knocking around you could get a spare Flow/Return pipes to get rid of the rubber hoses..which WILL break down with the majority of chemicals you will use (Even tho they say they Don't!) You really need to reverse the flow if you want to make any dent in the scale/debris hence the flush route. Or use a blanking plate for the OEM (Old pump without the impeller on if you don"t have one) and put an external small pump and do it that way, in any direction you want.. I often found the Pump impellor gains are blocked so worth a check. 1. Canoe filter, 2. Blocked pipes 3. Pump 4. Hex . Did you get your shopping done !!
I agree. FX2 is the best of the best. I like scale breaker FX too.(Do Kamco even sell scale breaker anymore). I have a pump adaptor for these boilers. I have a power flush too. I just cant be assed to drag it too the loft!! If I have to I will though. I am worried about the rubber pipes because I left the chemicals in there so long. Out if sight out of mind!! :-)
Kamco products are great I have the quantum2 power flusher. Fyi kamco sell a chemical injector similar to the setup you made up with sprayer but it is a little more costly. More Great info. Thanks
Hi Heating Geek, your info regarding 22mm pipework being able to dissipate up to 23kw of heat is spot on, if you are testing the boiler in P1 and putting 37kw of heat into 22mm pipework I would expect some noise as you really need 28mm flow and return pipework to do that, another great video and I like your idea with the garden pressure sprayer
Yeah 37 kw is a bit much but usually a new boiler won't make any noise. It will just get too hot and stop firing. My boiler copes very well but I defiantly have a noisy coil. If I leave the noisy coil it will block and then become really bad (clanging) all the time.
Have an ecomax 828 still in working order but not performing in hw mode but has all 10 history fault codes of f3 can you help have you had this code in the past vaillant tech say faulty pcb
@@mikebarron4929 Could be a lot of things. Sorry I cant help with that without being in front of the boiler. Good luck with it. Hope you got it sorted.
Hey mate I’ve had a lot of issues with the Vaillant stainless steel primary heat exchanger especially on open vented systems. A chemical I have had a bit of success with is chal-chem it takes about a week to start breaking down the scale but it’s a chemical that can be left in the system. Hope this helps. Love the videos keep them coming.
I use the mears calculator and add 10% for heating pipework. I also incorporate bigger rads as most designers do small output rads and install standard 22mm pipe. You have to be careful as you can get system flow noise, but then the winters certainly get very cold and I like to have more output for theses snowy times. Most heating systems are boilers running flat out dial, right up high. My Mrs likes the noise from the rads as it helps her sleep. If you have a good insulated new house, your probably going to be ok.
Weather comp all the way for me. Never ever touch the thing. Works a treat after the initial set up. It took me 2 winters to get the rads balanced correctly and now its great.
I've just been working on one of these today. The sump for the inlet outlet on the main heat ex was cracked (only hairline). It was pissing out water. Long story short drained it and put a safety warning notice on it. Too costly to change the main heat engine. So I quoted for a new boiler.
That pump is a great idea! The only thing is, I would not trust the pipe to stay on without a jubilee clip or some sort of retainer, a face full of acid would be scary. It only has to happen once. Thanks for the info, love the videos.
I used a Sentinal dosing vessel and connected it to the filling loop, really useful when someone had wandered off with the hose and I didn't have a spare on the van, still available at around 50 squid
Very true but its. lasted me well over 15 years and the connections are all made with jubilee clips and it has a good quality lever valve to control the flow.
@@jaxmar88 I know the weed sprayer is a basic cheap item but thats kinda the point. The dosing vessel looks almost the same except the hose and fittings which do look a lot better. I think the weed sprayer will last a little bit tbh. it does seam quality.
@@jaxmar88 I adapted a £21 hozelock sprayer with a 8mm to 1/2 bsp connector. 5 years plus on still working a charm. Same principal as the dosing vessel 😊
I agree, the dosing vessel is a bit pricey @ £50, main advantage is it has a 1/2 inch hose and good secure brass fittings, never used the Vaillant drain offs not even for draining down lol
@@jamesjulian I get what your saying and didnt take it as a criticism. I always thought these could make a good tool so gave it a go. I don't like the price difference for express stuff. This will pay for itself pretty quickly when adding chemicals.
Quality as always, got a favour to ask for and it would be absolutely epic if you can do that - so could you please do a video on setting high and low burner pressure on turbomax or something similar cause I struggled to get it right last time round. Thanks
@@HeatingGeek my 2007 vaillant ecotech plus combi is 13 yeaars old and never had much trouble with it in all that time ive changed the divertor and low pressure sensor and its had a couple of niggles with codes that appeared then disappeared that's all so very satisfied with it id buy another vaillant for sure. Thanks mate
@@HeatingGeek No, they do it all the time. I upgraded my washing machine - poked a hole in the panel, straightened the LED so it poked through and cut the panel so it would bend to activate the hidden function. Back in the day when fog lights were optional - and you got a car without them, you'd probably find it had all the wires - just missing the lights and switch !
If P1 was max heat input, it's a fair guess that's for DHW. From your table, when running for heating it may only be a 24kW boiler. Even my rads connected with 22mm pipe (pump speed 2) won't take 19kW - but it will if there's more CH load (which is why I don't run the pump at speed 3 as 2 is enough for the boiler when there's sufficient CH load. Now, with P1, are you trying to put 37kW through a load of TRVs ? TRVs don't open very much ! They're fine on microbore, not even 15mm !
Hi I am enjoying your videos keep them coming Have you any videos on intergas hre compact combination boilers or have you had much trouble with them mine says fan 08 fault only 3 years old it's the 36/40 model how can I test it( the fan) . last boiler was potterton puma 80 lasted nearly 20 years, can you rely on the self diagnosis please help, not a popular boiler in Ireland no one is familiar with it. UK plumber highly recommended it I was going to buy a Worcester or baxi was I wrong or should I say was he. Thanks in advance
I'm not a fan of Intergas boilers. Not because they are bad boilers but they are difficult to work on. :-) I wouldn't recommend you try and diagnose the fan yourself. Some of the modern fans use high voltage DC and will go pop if you get thing wrong. Get someone out to have a look. :-)
ok SOS going in i think would love to see what happens, glued to my screen thanks for all the uploads love them Pls Pls Pls can you get hold of more of the needle jet cleaner thing sold out when i tried to purchase one
@@HeatingGeek mate can you help please? I know your more a vaillant head but ive got a worcester240 combi from around 2000/2001 with no heating or hot water its not the pressure as hes checked that i explained down phone how to do it I haven't actual been yet but what's first thing you'd be thinking diverter, or expansion maybe so on thanks mate?
HeatingGeek I'll have to remember that when I next have that setup. I may do a video on this, although I need some video practice and do some commentary. Hope your getting some quality time with your new addition. Congrats.
It's nothing to worry about. They'll be in and out. I was asked a few questions. Then he dashed off to the next job. They just want to check your competent, that's all. Good luck
I have done loads over the years. Usually look at your tools (analyser manometer LDF etc) few questions on ventilation and flueing. Gas rate, tightness, flue integ test and combustion ratios. Inlet working pressure standing etc.
@@rayc1503 they sound? or can they be strict? i know ill be fine just not been registered very long, so if im under pressure with questions that i dont do everyday.. ill get my head in the book.. if i flick through it ill be fine.. :)
@@brendanfisher2528 They're not strict, just think safety. He looked at the cal on my analyser asked me a few questions. That was it. Their job is to check your competency. I really wouldn't' worry too much. I was nervous at 1st, but it wasn't difficult.
Fantastic videos, great delivery, packed with info and entertaining. I've got a problematic TurboMax which keeps cutting, similar symptoms which I need to keep going until system replacement later this year, I'm going to give this a go with mine - what have I got to lose? Did you ever use the hydrochloric acid - I'd be nervous using that stuff :-) Keep up the great work with the channel!
Thanks for the reply - much appreciated. I seem to recall the NTC was the part the independent gas eng checked and swapped. I've looked at my display and it's not jumping around like that one. My one is intermittently rising to high 60's and then cuts the gas. Needs a reset and then runs for just enough time to soap up in the shower only for it to cut leaving you to rinse off in the cold. The missus and kids love it!
This was an interesting series of videos on your own boiler issues. Do you intend to publish an update and have you measured the water chemistry post flushing and dosing with inhibitor? What is the situation noise wise now when under normal operation.
Got a question mate, CH is working fine but when the hot water is turned on so there’s demand boiler doesn’t switch to water it’s just cold like the cold tap. Boiler doesn’t even acknowledge demand for hot water. Is this a faulty diverter Valve or a sensor? Ecotec pro 28 mk1, engineers fiddled about but couldn’t fix it
I’ve got an ongoing issue with an ecotec 831 plus. Hot water seems to be running fine. Central heating temp only tepid. Checked pump, diverter, hoses changed, sensors changed. Can’t get the rads to a respectable temp at all even when trying to put in chimney sweep mode will not ramp up to higher rate. Debating the heat exchanger but not convinced as yet. Any other ideas?
Put the boiler into P001 mode. Check D.0 if your using Ebus controls reset and then remove them. Do a factory reset. What S. codes does it have. What ecotec is it. 1 or 2 (knobs or no knobs).
@@andrewlockyer6442 Press the info button and I think you will find S.53. This is the boiler in low fire mode because the ΔT is not correct. This will be because the circulation is poor.
Much appreciated your advice. Boiler now all up and running a treat. Prior to my visit new bathroom fitted with additional rad so they had drained system completely. Now has updated pipes, clean filter and increased output. Top man 👍
Hi heating geek great video as always. Have tried a few things myself over the years with topping boilers with inadequate pressure. Found a website aimtools in Hayes that has reasonable priced hydraulic pressure testers by katsu. They do a budget one product no = 318927 which is £20. And the one up product no = 318926 which is £39 I’ve had the £39 one for around 3 years it’s not amazing pressure gauge pretty much didn’t work from day one lol but it does the job. Love the videos thanks for your time
? Did you rely on the boiler's pressure relief valve to limit pressure ? Glad you had success. A lot of 'Bucket Pumps', by design, incorporate two disadvantages. Firstly, they are designed to pump very small volumes of liquid into a closed system that has been purged of air. Secondly, when pumping into a closed system very high pressures can result from very little pressure on the pumping handle. The scale on the pump's own pressure gauge designed for max 70 bar will be so cramped at '3 bar end' that needle movement could be almost nil at 3 bar (fix: use suitable gauge in parallel).
Sorry just checked diagram again the water is leaking from the housing for the the three way valve what could cause it to leak from here sorry for duff gen
@@HeatingGeek Don't buy a fridge freezer. If the fridge fails, you still have to throw out a good freezer. Similarly, buy cheap boiler, header tank and pump separately. Then if one bit fails, you're not having to replace the lot !
Hello! Nice videos. Good job! I have same boiler and since some time the display is most of time with backlight on. Same for the Vaillant 350 thermostat. Boiler works fine. But light on thermostat is annoying...😁 Do you know what could be? Thanks and again we'll done with your channel!
@@HeatingGeek i have vaillant ecotec 831. I have replaced the diverter valve but still the same. anything I missed out when I replace the diverter valve? is there any other possible cause? Thanks
@@manlokchin809 The PCB might not be sending power to the valve. You can use the P>codes to move the valve into the different positions to check its moving. Have a read of the manual and you will find it. :-)
I took one of those valiants out before Crimbo it had an alarming fault I'm sure you'd be interested in.I filmed it on my fone only couple mins how can I get it to you.
I have filters in the garage. I don't really believe in them (Ha Ha Ha and my boilers blocked) I want to try the budget versions first. I have a powerflush and pump adaptor for Vaillants but a lot of people don't. I want to see how far basic tools can get you.
@@HeatingGeek You don't believe in magnetic filters? First time I've heard that....they speak for themselves...never install boilers without them. No matter how much flushing you do you'll never get it all so anything missed while suspended in the fluid will be captured...no brainer!
@@kb5057 Yes. I like the magna booster but not the fernox or magna clean. I only ever fitted them on the systems that I couldn't get clean (BBU etc) after 8 hours of flushing.
Just watched part 4 ... how did things finally work out? I could not understand why you bothered to continue trying to get rid of the noise if the noise did not come when you ran the hot water for 15 minutes - as far as I understand things the boiler runs at its normal maximum while producing hot water for the taps - it usually runs at half power or less when heating radiators - and you can permanently throttle the boiler down when in central heating mode. 80 degrees C is excessive for radiators - dangerously hot for kids and old people. Having got as far as you did, I would imagine that draining the system and putting Fernox F1 in your system would have prevented things from getting worse - and possibly slowly improved things - without risking damaging some aspect of your boiler by leaving cleaning chemicals in too long ... Can a fully functioning noise free heat exchanger get worse than it is if it is running with clean water and Fernox F1?
@@benjaminfrost4363 I don't think they were a problem on boilers that had the correct water quality and they don't burst for no reason. EcoMax boiler have had them since 2000 and some of them are original. I fit the copper ones for customers because thats what they want.
No, they do it because it's safer and guaranteed to fix the issue. What I did here is a risk that may not work and also a risk if something goes wrong with the acid. I think the issue is coming back already. :-(
@@HeatingGeek thanks for entertaining my comment. Check out this video @10:24 ruclips.net/video/FPFPPyH0nHM/видео.html the process also clears out the heat exchanger. Is your HE already cleared out of sludge? Hence you are saying there will be no improvement?
No worries pal, appreciate you takin the time to get back to us. Got a Worcester 28cdi, that’s not holding pressure when off (will lose a little pressure upon initially filling up and turning on heating but its stable for the most part, however it runs down to 0.5 bar after a good few hours). I think it’s the prv coz the pipe out back is dripping, but I’ve noticed there’s a leak from within the boiler as well, thought it was something to do with the filling loop, but it’s definitely dripping from just above that. I know it’s impossible for you to tell me what’s wrong without inspection, but any ideas on what it could be? Just so if I do hire somewhere they don’t mug me off. Also is it normal for no steam/smoke to come out the flue bit?
@@jnr4evr If the boiler is the RSF version then dripping from the pipe (15mm outside) shouldn't happen. The leak above the filing loop could be the diverter or vessel. Thats if its the RSF version.
Do not use leak sealer you could kill that heat engine in days. Why are you running that boiler at 80 plus deg's, your causing the particles in the water to stick to the internals, max 72 deg's and the noise will be gone anyway. Remember if the water can't pass through the heat exchanger fast enough then it will get to a critical temp ( think shower pump cavitation, air expands water won't move, starts to overheat) similar thing inside the boiler leads to noise, the thing is it's not always the heat exchanger that's part blocked, systems get dirty pumps get tired, filter get part blocked as rubber collects the scale. I had a Vaillant 415 making that noise that you think is the heat exchanger but it was while doing low burn rate test, by adjusting the fan speed in D something or other to a few percent higher speed the noise went, all it was, was the fan could not blow the products of combustion out of the flue due to the direction of the air movement outside, it needed just a bit more fan speed that is adjustable, the noise was the same noise though that we all know and had me fooled for a while.
19:00 + "Let's have a look for any leaks" - before you took the cover off on camera, you should have had it off first and put a couple of carrots in it. Then you could have said - when getting the cover off on camera: "There's no leeks but we do have a couple of carrots."
Watched all 4 of these episodes and have to say your explanations as you are fixing is very clear and concise. Great work doing these videos, very helpful for those of us who have a Vaillant
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you for taking lots of time to explain your boiler problems, very very helpful and I know it's not easy filming this stuff while trying to work.
No problem. I want to get back to it. Just had no time lately.
Retired North Thames Gas Engineer - really enjoy your videos. Please keep them coming
I will as I have time. Thanks for watching. :-)
I came across your videos today and I think i've got a similar problem, where the hot water is going really hot and then cold intermittently on a Vaillant 837 ecotec R1. Your videos are an excellent diagnosis of the problem and are clear with enough information to help even a novice! Thanks again mate!
What a brilliant tip regarding the garden sprayer. Cleared an heat ex on a duo-Tec today that was kettling like a good un.. Best tip I've ever come across. Thanks Ollie
Glad someone liked it. :-)
Hello mate, discovered your four videos (thus far) and been binge watching them (hours worth). What an inspiration, fully immersed in every 'episode' thanks for taking the time to uploading them, can't wait for the final 'grand finale'. Forget Game of Thrones !!!😁
Im so lost with this lot. Im haven't uploaded the last on as I got board seeing the same thing on my screen. The boiler has been........... :-)
Thanks for watching too. :-) Where did you hear about the channel?
Thanks so much for you vids on this boiler. I’m now retired but was a technician on North Thames Gas, the first combi I worked on was an open flue Vaillant, back in the early 70’s, it was totally mechanical only had a pump on the flow as I remember. Been watching your vids as I have a Vaillant 831 giving me problems but BG are coming tomorrow.
I repaired a combi compact by re soldering the the obsolete PCB. I put photos onto instagram. :-) It was a great job. That customer will never use anyone else.
One of the best and honest videos. Very useful and clear.
Glad you like it. ;-)
Really enjoyed your videos. I am not a plumber but had a few problems trying to figure out. Thanks. Subscribed even though not what I need, excellent tuition!
Great to see you at it again..The successes I have had on those boilers and hex have been by adding Fx2 or if you want to go Nuts use Scale-breaker Fx but you must only run it in the boiler..then flush it throughly out as The later has a tendancy to stay in the system..Which then means you need to flush all the system out and check the Ph balance and ensure that there is No residue left. Im sure with all the spares Knocking around you could get a spare Flow/Return pipes to get rid of the rubber hoses..which WILL break down with the majority of chemicals you will use (Even tho they say they Don't!) You really need to reverse the flow if you want to make any dent in the scale/debris hence the flush route. Or use a blanking plate for the OEM (Old pump without the impeller on if you don"t have one) and put an external small pump and do it that way, in any direction you want.. I often found the Pump impellor gains are blocked so worth a check. 1. Canoe filter, 2. Blocked pipes 3. Pump 4. Hex . Did you get your shopping done !!
I agree. FX2 is the best of the best. I like scale breaker FX too.(Do Kamco even sell scale breaker anymore). I have a pump adaptor for these boilers. I have a power flush too. I just cant be assed to drag it too the loft!!
If I have to I will though.
I am worried about the rubber pipes because I left the chemicals in there so long. Out if sight out of mind!! :-)
Scale breaker Not Sure but My merchant knew I was going thru loads so He bought 25Litre containers of it so Im good to go for sometime.@@HeatingGeek
Kamco products are great I have the quantum2 power flusher. Fyi kamco sell a chemical injector similar to the setup you made up with sprayer but it is a little more costly. More Great info. Thanks
@@jameslewis875 I have a Kamco power flush myself. Too lazy to drag it up stairs and do a proper job... I will if I have to.
I am gas registered etc. Just wanted to say your knowledge and skillset are first class. Thanks for some very informative videos.
Thanks for watching. Its hard to film and do the job at the same time. :-)
Hi Heating Geek, your info regarding 22mm pipework being able to dissipate up to 23kw of heat is spot on, if you are testing the boiler in P1 and putting 37kw of heat into 22mm pipework I would expect some noise as you really need 28mm flow and return pipework to do that, another great video and I like your idea with the garden pressure sprayer
Yeah 37 kw is a bit much but usually a new boiler won't make any noise. It will just get too hot and stop firing. My boiler copes very well but I defiantly have a noisy coil. If I leave the noisy coil it will block and then become really bad (clanging) all the time.
HeatingGeek ok fair enough, looking forward to you getting serious with the chemicals in your next video
Have an ecomax 828 still in working order but not performing in hw mode but has all 10 history fault codes of f3 can you help have you had this code in the past vaillant tech say faulty pcb
@@mikebarron4929 Could be a lot of things. Sorry I cant help with that without being in front of the boiler. Good luck with it. Hope you got it sorted.
Not just 22mm pipes - but if you assume he's got TRVs all over the place - even less flow !
Hey mate I’ve had a lot of issues with the Vaillant stainless steel primary heat exchanger especially on open vented systems.
A chemical I have had a bit of success with is chal-chem it takes about a week to start breaking down the scale but it’s a chemical that can be left in the system.
Hope this helps.
Love the videos keep them coming.
Thanks. I will bare that In mind. :-)
I just gotta question the idiocy of putting hard water in boilers in the first place ! The issues are so well known !
I use the mears calculator and add 10% for heating pipework. I also incorporate bigger rads as most designers do small output rads and install standard 22mm pipe. You have to be careful as you can get system flow noise, but then the winters certainly get very cold and I like to have more output for theses snowy times. Most heating systems are boilers running flat out dial, right up high. My Mrs likes the noise from the rads as it helps her sleep. If you have a good insulated new house, your probably going to be ok.
Weather comp all the way for me. Never ever touch the thing. Works a treat after the initial set up.
It took me 2 winters to get the rads balanced correctly and now its great.
I've just been working on one of these today. The sump for the inlet outlet on the main heat ex was cracked (only hairline). It was pissing out water. Long story short drained it and put a safety warning notice on it. Too costly to change the main heat engine. So I quoted for a new boiler.
The heat exchanger is too expensive!!! If it was a private customer I would of told them to change the boiler.
@@HeatingGeek My teapot's cracked. It too is stainless steel ! Not only that, but the spout welding's failing !
That pump is a great idea!
The only thing is, I would not trust the pipe to stay on without a jubilee clip or some sort of retainer, a face full of acid would be scary. It only has to happen once.
Thanks for the info, love the videos.
Yep. I only considered this after I started pumping it up.
I used a Sentinal dosing vessel and connected it to the filling loop, really useful when someone had wandered off with the hose and I didn't have a spare on the van, still available at around 50 squid
The Weed sprayer was £12 so almost disposable. 2 jobs and its paid for itself over the expensive pressurised chemicals.
Very true but its. lasted me well over 15 years and the connections are all made with jubilee clips and it has a good quality lever valve to control the flow.
@@jaxmar88 I know the weed sprayer is a basic cheap item but thats kinda the point. The dosing vessel looks almost the same except the hose and fittings which do look a lot better. I think the weed sprayer will last a little bit tbh. it does seam quality.
@@jaxmar88 I adapted a £21 hozelock sprayer with a 8mm to 1/2 bsp connector. 5 years plus on still working a charm. Same principal as the dosing vessel 😊
I agree, the dosing vessel is a bit pricey @ £50, main advantage is it has a 1/2 inch hose and good secure brass fittings, never used the Vaillant drain offs not even for draining down lol
After you’ve pumped the chemicals into the boiler did you then fill it with water?
Absolutely belting set of videos
Thanks :-)
Just came across these videos. Very interesting 👌
Boilers you jyst don't know what the outcome can be 👌
Boiler is still good. No issues. :-)
Heating Geek doing this type of experiment so you don't have to! great video..
Cant do it in a customers house!!!
This is very interesting. I have just had exactly the same situation.
I just unscrew fill hose from check valve and Use Fernox express on vaillant , job done
Not when Im penny pinching. Also the weed sprayer gives me more options on other boilers.
Not criticising !!! We do what we have to do and I have made all sorts over the years , good video
@@jamesjulian I get what your saying and didnt take it as a criticism. I always thought these could make a good tool so gave it a go. I don't like the price difference for express stuff. This will pay for itself pretty quickly when adding chemicals.
Quality as always, got a favour to ask for and it would be absolutely epic if you can do that - so could you please do a video on setting high and low burner pressure on turbomax or something similar cause I struggled to get it right last time round. Thanks
Ok no problem. Thats a good shout. The Honeywell valves can be difficult.
Great idea that would be very useful. 👍👍👍👍
You're a Legend !
Bro you are proper clever
And so methodical
Got to be to fix em. ;-)
Is the F5 still in the system as I can't find a part 5 and this was at least 4 years ago 😅. What sorted the problem? Same issue myself.
I left the F5 in for a couple of months.... :-) The boiler is still going strong. :-)
Loving your journey with this boiler , that’s a great idea for topping up the pressure if you have bad mains supply
Cheers.....👍
Until it explodes in your face!!!! Then it was a very bad Idea. :-)
@@HeatingGeek what's typical life expectancy of these boilers? Great video btw
@@garylawton7254 They say a10 year design life. This boiler if looked after should do 15. Mine is passed it but its working well at the moment. :-)
@@HeatingGeek my 2007 vaillant ecotech plus combi is 13 yeaars old and never had much trouble with it in all that time ive changed the divertor and low pressure sensor and its had a couple of niggles with codes that appeared then disappeared that's all so very satisfied with it id buy another vaillant for sure. Thanks mate
Do they still make the vaillant ecotech plus combi boilers now?
9:44 I wonder if the 2-pin connector is for a test lead connector for Grundfos to the pump body ?
Maybe. Its a strange thing to manufacture into something and not use.
@@HeatingGeek No, they do it all the time. I upgraded my washing machine - poked a hole in the panel, straightened the LED so it poked through and cut the panel so it would bend to activate the hidden function.
Back in the day when fog lights were optional - and you got a car without them, you'd probably find it had all the wires - just missing the lights and switch !
If P1 was max heat input, it's a fair guess that's for DHW. From your table, when running for heating it may only be a 24kW boiler. Even my rads connected with 22mm pipe (pump speed 2) won't take 19kW - but it will if there's more CH load (which is why I don't run the pump at speed 3 as 2 is enough for the boiler when there's sufficient CH load.
Now, with P1, are you trying to put 37kW through a load of TRVs ? TRVs don't open very much ! They're fine on microbore, not even 15mm !
Yes exactly. No chance. I think (I don't rewatch) I am running a tap when testing the boiler. It's a long time ago though.
Hi I am enjoying your videos keep them coming Have you any videos on intergas hre compact combination boilers or have you had much trouble with them mine says fan 08 fault only 3 years old it's the 36/40 model how can I test it( the fan) . last boiler was potterton puma 80 lasted nearly 20 years, can you rely on the self diagnosis please help, not a popular boiler in Ireland no one is familiar with it. UK plumber highly recommended it I was going to buy a Worcester or baxi was I wrong or should I say was he. Thanks in advance
I'm not a fan of Intergas boilers. Not because they are bad boilers but they are difficult to work on. :-) I wouldn't recommend you try and diagnose the fan yourself. Some of the modern fans use high voltage DC and will go pop if you get thing wrong. Get someone out to have a look. :-)
Loads of useful information as usual, and some great tips.
Have great new year, looking forward to the videos.
👍👍👍
Thanks. :-)
ok SOS going in i think would love to see what happens, glued to my screen thanks for all the uploads love them Pls Pls Pls can you get hold of more of the needle jet cleaner thing sold out when i tried to purchase one
They are coming!!! Took ages to get them. On the way
@@HeatingGeek mate can you help please? I know your more a vaillant head but ive got a worcester240 combi from around 2000/2001 with no heating or hot water its not the pressure as hes checked that i explained down phone how to do it I haven't actual been yet but what's first thing you'd be thinking diverter, or expansion maybe so on thanks mate?
@@garylawton7254 Overheat or water pressure sensor
Another excellent video' pressure/dosing tip appreciate.
What about DS40 , any good
I use spirits of salt instead now. Not on nice things though. DS 40 is good if you want to do more gentle.
5:57 Strange table. Pipe diameter should really be flow rate in l/min !
It will be based on BS flow rates/velocity. Just a quick look up table.
Where is the canoe filter ,and is it on all boiler s
Canoe filter is only on the Vaillant/Glowworm range from 2004 to present.
Thanks for your time doing these videos mate what did you say the term was for the fan technology was it
Pulse swift modulation
PWM.
pulse width modulation. :-)
Lol cheers mate just watching diy sos and it’s got me
Also watch out for the outside flue collar...they rot and water passes down the vertical flue and down onto the pcb. My experience with them.
On the new ones if the flue runs off to the left it will drip right onto the yellow gas valve plug an damage the harness.
HeatingGeek I'll have to remember that when I next have that setup. I may do a video on this, although I need some video practice and do some commentary. Hope your getting some quality time with your new addition. Congrats.
what do they do during your gas inspection? i have mine next month :/ getting nervous about it
It's nothing to worry about. They'll be in and out. I was asked a few questions. Then he dashed off to the next job. They just want to check your competent, that's all. Good luck
I have done loads over the years. Usually look at your tools (analyser manometer LDF etc) few questions on ventilation and flueing. Gas rate, tightness, flue integ test and combustion ratios. Inlet working pressure standing etc.
@@HeatingGeek sound.. :)
@@rayc1503 they sound? or can they be strict? i know ill be fine just not been registered very long, so if im under pressure with questions that i dont do everyday.. ill get my head in the book.. if i flick through it ill be fine.. :)
@@brendanfisher2528 They're not strict, just think safety. He looked at the cal on my analyser asked me a few questions. That was it. Their job is to check your competency. I really wouldn't' worry too much. I was nervous at 1st, but it wasn't difficult.
Fantastic videos, great delivery, packed with info and entertaining. I've got a problematic TurboMax which keeps cutting, similar symptoms which I need to keep going until system replacement later this year, I'm going to give this a go with mine - what have I got to lose? Did you ever use the hydrochloric acid - I'd be nervous using that stuff :-) Keep up the great work with the channel!
Check out the turbomax video here:ruclips.net/video/K0xNZPfqQ-M/видео.html
This might be your problem.
Thanks for the reply - much appreciated. I seem to recall the NTC was the part the independent gas eng checked and swapped. I've looked at my display and it's not jumping around like that one. My one is intermittently rising to high 60's and then cuts the gas. Needs a reset and then runs for just enough time to soap up in the shower only for it to cut leaving you to rinse off in the cold. The missus and kids love it!
This was an interesting series of videos on your own boiler issues. Do you intend to publish an update and have you measured the water chemistry post flushing and dosing with inhibitor? What is the situation noise wise now when under normal operation.
No noise. I have an update in the "videos to edit folder" on my laptop. Its mostly fixed...... :-)
So what hapened to your boiler? Did fixed it? Unblocked? I have same problem? Whats your opinion?
Its still going. I drained it and refilled with inhibitor. All ok.
What you should do as a paying customer is to replace the boiler.
Sounds like it was the fan from the start ?
Nope.
Great video, is there no magna clean on return?
No. I have them in the garage though :-/ It didn't have inhibitor for many years too.... Its working fine now though. :-)
Got a question mate, CH is working fine but when the hot water is turned on so there’s demand boiler doesn’t switch to water it’s just cold like the cold tap. Boiler doesn’t even acknowledge demand for hot water. Is this a faulty diverter Valve or a sensor? Ecotec pro 28 mk1, engineers fiddled about but couldn’t fix it
Could be either. Needs testing
Sorted mate. Ran P6 and P0, fired right up after that.
@@ahsan3369 Whats P6?
HeatingGeek puts the diverter valve in mid position for filling or draining. Somehow that fixed it 👀
@@ahsan3369 Maybe stuck? But the diverter isn't needed to see demand??? Anyway fixed!!!!
I’ve got an ongoing issue with an ecotec 831 plus. Hot water seems to be running fine. Central heating temp only tepid. Checked pump, diverter, hoses changed, sensors changed. Can’t get the rads to a respectable temp at all even when trying to put in chimney sweep mode will not ramp up to higher rate. Debating the heat exchanger but not convinced as yet. Any other ideas?
Put the boiler into P001 mode. Check D.0 if your using Ebus controls reset and then remove them. Do a factory reset. What S. codes does it have. What ecotec is it. 1 or 2 (knobs or no knobs).
It’s the 2006 model with the 2 knobs and the rubber buttons with -/+.
I’m due to return there this week so will see what’s happening then.
@@andrewlockyer6442 Press the info button and I think you will find S.53. This is the boiler in low fire mode because the ΔT is not correct. This will be because the circulation is poor.
Much appreciated your advice. Boiler now all up and running a treat. Prior to my visit new bathroom fitted with additional rad so they had drained system completely. Now has updated pipes, clean filter and increased output.
Top man 👍
Hi heating geek great video as always. Have tried a few things myself over the years with topping boilers with inadequate pressure. Found a website aimtools in Hayes that has reasonable priced hydraulic pressure testers by katsu. They do a budget one product no = 318927 which is £20. And the one up product no = 318926 which is £39 I’ve had the £39 one for around 3 years it’s not amazing pressure gauge pretty much didn’t work from day one lol but it does the job. Love the videos thanks for your time
Thanks for watching the videos!!! :-)
? Did you rely on the boiler's pressure relief valve to limit pressure ? Glad you had success.
A lot of 'Bucket Pumps', by design, incorporate two disadvantages.
Firstly, they are designed to pump very small volumes of liquid into a closed system that has been purged of air.
Secondly, when pumping into a closed system very high pressures can result from very little pressure on the pumping handle. The scale on the pump's own pressure gauge designed for max 70 bar will be so cramped at '3 bar end' that needle movement could be almost nil at 3 bar (fix: use suitable gauge in parallel).
I have a glowworm easicom 28 leaking from safety valve when boiler is off part no 24 on exploded view in manual hope you can advise thankyou.
Advise what?
Sorry just checked diagram again the water is leaking from the housing for the the three way valve what could cause it to leak from here sorry for duff gen
@@billheap6159 The diverter valve.
@@HeatingGeek Don't buy a fridge freezer. If the fridge fails, you still have to throw out a good freezer. Similarly, buy cheap boiler, header tank and pump separately. Then if one bit fails, you're not having to replace the lot !
Has it got a filter on
Nooooo. :-0. I have 3 in my garage but none on my boiler. :-)
Hello! Nice videos. Good job!
I have same boiler and since some time the display is most of time with backlight on. Same for the Vaillant 350 thermostat. Boiler works fine. But light on thermostat is annoying...😁 Do you know what could be? Thanks and again we'll done with your channel!
The main PCB is failing. You will eventually get f61 f62 faults. I have done a video on that issue. ruclips.net/video/0X3sDny-lzk/видео.html
Thank you! Happy holidays.
i want to ask if there is no hot water coming out of the taps but the radiators heat up, what is the possible cause of this fault?
been away. :-)
Diverter valve. It does depend what boiler you have though. :-)
@@HeatingGeek i have vaillant ecotec 831. I have replaced the diverter valve but still the same. anything I missed out when I replace the diverter valve? is there any other possible cause? Thanks
@@manlokchin809 The PCB might not be sending power to the valve. You can use the P>codes to move the valve into the different positions to check its moving. Have a read of the manual and you will find it. :-)
@@HeatingGeek if you have a video on using P>code to move the valve into different position, could you give me a link, it would be helpful. Thanks
@@manlokchin809 I dont im afraid. Sorry. It is in the manual
What's happening with the condensate pipework?? 🤔
Goes outside where it freezes and blocks. Is that what you mean ? ;)
Increíble video
Glad you like it
Didn’t you leave the canoe filter out?
I took one of those valiants out before Crimbo it had an alarming fault I'm sure you'd be interested in.I filmed it on my fone only couple mins how can I get it to you.
Use wetransfer with my email. boilertechnical@gmail.com
How come you didn't cut in a magnetic filter and then dose through that . Cant beat fernox express so easy
good work as normal
I have filters in the garage. I don't really believe in them (Ha Ha Ha and my boilers blocked) I want to try the budget versions first. I have a powerflush and pump adaptor for Vaillants but a lot of people don't. I want to see how far basic tools can get you.
@@HeatingGeek You don't believe in magnetic filters? First time I've heard that....they speak for themselves...never install boilers without them. No matter how much flushing you do you'll never get it all so anything missed while suspended in the fluid will be captured...no brainer!
@@kb5057 Yes. I like the magna booster but not the fernox or magna clean. I only ever fitted them on the systems that I couldn't get clean (BBU etc) after 8 hours of flushing.
How do you recharge the boiler
There must be a load of videos on that. I don't do them videos, sorry. :-)
Just watched part 4 ... how did things finally work out?
I could not understand why you bothered to continue trying to get rid of the noise if the noise did not come when you ran the hot water for 15 minutes - as far as I understand things the boiler runs at its normal maximum while producing hot water for the taps - it usually runs at half power or less when heating radiators - and you can permanently throttle the boiler down when in central heating mode. 80 degrees C is excessive for radiators - dangerously hot for kids and old people. Having got as far as you did, I would imagine that draining the system and putting Fernox F1 in your system would have prevented things from getting worse - and possibly slowly improved things - without risking damaging some aspect of your boiler by leaving cleaning chemicals in too long ...
Can a fully functioning noise free heat exchanger get worse than it is if it is running with clean water and Fernox F1?
I'm surprised the testo silicone tube worked, I would have thought it would have popped before it got up to pressure.
I know. It was sketchy a frigg. If i twisted a bit of wire around it I think it would of taken over 1 bar. Still not the best way of doing it!!
change the black flexies for the rigids mate. if the rest is ok of course 👍
I like the rubber hoses. £18 to replace them. Why would I spend £100. I have the rigid pipes on the van!!!
cos they don't collect shit. also thet don't leak .lol
why would you fit them to customer's boilers but not your own mate?
@@benjaminfrost4363 I don't think they were a problem on boilers that had the correct water quality and they don't burst for no reason. EcoMax boiler have had them since 2000 and some of them are original. I fit the copper ones for customers because thats what they want.
yeah mate. we do up-selling aswell. 😂
Why don't Valliant engineers do this method? Do they just replace the heat exchanger as the solution because it has bigger profits?
No, they do it because it's safer and guaranteed to fix the issue. What I did here is a risk that may not work and also a risk if something goes wrong with the acid. I think the issue is coming back already. :-(
HeatingGeek your speculation of the problem led me to think that powerflushing the entire central heating system would help.
@@DrJamesT It will help the system but may not improve the heat exchanger. :-)
@@HeatingGeek thanks for entertaining my comment. Check out this video @10:24 ruclips.net/video/FPFPPyH0nHM/видео.html the process also clears out the heat exchanger. Is your HE already cleared out of sludge? Hence you are saying there will be no improvement?
Nice video
Thanks. :-)
Just pour the cleaner into the AAV..if it’s fx2 you’ll only need a cup…
You work in London by any chance?
Yeah. Most days. you?
Lol I’m not a plumber mate, could do with a good one though, do you do private jobs?
@@jnr4evr I do but It too busy at the moment to do any more. Just got home form work 20min ago. Whats up?
No worries pal, appreciate you takin the time to get back to us. Got a Worcester 28cdi, that’s not holding pressure when off (will lose a little pressure upon initially filling up and turning on heating but its stable for the most part, however it runs down to 0.5 bar after a good few hours). I think it’s the prv coz the pipe out back is dripping, but I’ve noticed there’s a leak from within the boiler as well, thought it was something to do with the filling loop, but it’s definitely dripping from just above that. I know it’s impossible for you to tell me what’s wrong without inspection, but any ideas on what it could be? Just so if I do hire somewhere they don’t mug me off. Also is it normal for no steam/smoke to come out the flue bit?
@@jnr4evr If the boiler is the RSF version then dripping from the pipe (15mm outside) shouldn't happen. The leak above the filing loop could be the diverter or vessel. Thats if its the RSF version.
It wasn't the debris it was the fan faulty
No, the fan just failed coincidently.
@@HeatingGeek bullshit the fan was faulty,and that was the initial fault,and u know it aswell
Really interesting
Thanks. :-)
good video
Thanks for watching. :-)
Thanks pal
Thanks for watching
👍
Won't acid of any kind be damaging to pipes seals ? If it's limescale wouldn't a descaler type chemical be safer
Yep. Its my boiler so im willing to risk it. Only myself to blame.
Do not use leak sealer you could kill that heat engine in days. Why are you running that boiler at 80 plus deg's, your causing the particles in the water to stick to the internals, max 72 deg's and the noise will be gone anyway. Remember if the water can't pass through the heat exchanger fast enough then it will get to a critical temp ( think shower pump cavitation, air expands water won't move, starts to overheat) similar thing inside the boiler leads to noise, the thing is it's not always the heat exchanger that's part blocked, systems get dirty pumps get tired, filter get part blocked as rubber collects the scale. I had a Vaillant 415 making that noise that you think is the heat exchanger but it was while doing low burn rate test, by adjusting the fan speed in D something or other to a few percent higher speed the noise went, all it was, was the fan could not blow the products of combustion out of the flue due to the direction of the air movement outside, it needed just a bit more fan speed that is adjustable, the noise was the same noise though that we all know and had me fooled for a while.
Yes I agree with you. The noise has got a lot better once the filter was removed. I think it will be sorted next time I check it.
I wasn't going to use leak sealer on it.
@@HeatingGeek Sorry that's noise suppressor for a moment i thought it was leak sealer, must find my glasses
@@derekclark7545 Leak sealer would be interesting.
So your going to spirt of salts through the system.
No, :-) But maybe....
2 awesome
Thanks for watching:-)
dude your my new hero, will be doing CCN1/ACS is August :D
@@MSKChess Wow good luck with it. Im sure it will be fine :-)
Thanks so much but the questions are super tricky!
Niceeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Thanks. :-)
LIMESCALE !!!!!
FFS, why didn't you use clean water ? Malvern spring water, distilled water, rain water - anything but mucky tap water !
mmmmm Tap water
19:00 + "Let's have a look for any leaks" - before you took the cover off on camera, you should have had it off first and put a couple of carrots in it. Then you could have said - when getting the cover off on camera: "There's no leeks but we do have a couple of carrots."
I will use that soon. :-)
@@HeatingGeek If you like, use the electrical orange pyro end sleeves - aka 'carrots' !
Way too many fuken ads ,,,,had to exit cos doing my head in