Great video! I run my vent hoses the same way. One thing I'd recommend is getting yourself a couple chainsaw (in-tank) fuel filters to stick on the end of the vent hoses you ran to the airbox. It prevents dust from getting sucked into the hoses but also, more importantly, if you loop the bike or it crashes laying on its side past horizontal for more than a few seconds, the filter will absorb a lot of the gas and prevent it from flowing into the airbox or on the hot exhaust.
2023 300 here. I moved my float height to 8mm to reduce fuel waste. I am 0-2500 and went 42p, 170p, NEDJ clip 4. That would seem really rich compared to jetting chart but its spot on for max torque and burns clean in my HE riding application. Jet to pref as always.
The TPS sensor pretty much adjusts voltage input to tell the ECU to adjust the computer. My Yz 2 strokes had them on bikes dating back to 2004. Don't remove the tps, it does way more than interact with the oil system your bike doesn't have.
awesome. got mine on order cant wait to ride it. ive had so much success with the JD jet kit in the past and i have a spare needle laying around so I might as well throw it in.
@@JeffSanGeorge953 really? Thats interesting because the 300 uses the red needle on the 4th clip vs the 250 uses the blue needle on the 3rd clip which is just a bit richer. I ride around 700-1000ft and temperatures dont fluctuate enough to necessitate rejetting.
@@JeffSanGeorge953 i suppose. Im coming from a 250 to a 300 so im trying to maintain the revvy and snappy nature of the 250 but with the added bottom end and luggability of the 300. Itll just be a lot of trial and error for me getting it where i want.
@@JeffSanGeorge9535 mm is way too high for float height, I would set to 7 to 8 mm . My 23 ran rich , tried to compensate with a smaller pilot until I figured out the float was out from factory. I now run a necj needle , 38 pilot 165 main , sea level , runs sweet.
Just got my 24 300RE, I've gone through 2 tanks of gas. 35 miles per tank the first and 41 miles per tank the second fill. Going in to check the float height this week and hoping maybe it's not set right from factory. Current stock jetting at 300ft elevation, ridden at around 40-55 degrees with 5 hours on it now....thing is burning through gas...not sure what your fuel efficiency is looking like?
Great professional video: you mention at the end an "old trick"to loop the lowest drain hose as I can see on your video. Question- what does this accomplish ?
hola acabo de ver tu video y yo tambien quiero quitar el tps pero nose como hacer luego para que el marcador no tenga encendido el fallo. como se hace? gracias
Cuando controle el TPS de forma remota, deberá desconectar un cable de la pantalla. Aquí hay un enlace al video. ruclips.net/video/gmm1fneWNUo/видео.html
The overflow still works but it takes more for it to happen with the loop. It improves mileage and prevents fuel starvation during extreme conditions, like long steep in hills and such.
The throttle position sensor is only on the bike to tell the computer how much oil to add. Since this bike does not come with oil injection they're simply no need for it. The only minor negative is it does add some resistance to the throttle pull. Beta leaves that on the bike because it is an option to add oil injection but I strongly recommend that you don't.
@@JeffSanGeorge953 oh ok, so you would recommend removing the Oi system on the standard RR models. Found a really good deal on a new leftover 2023 250 RR. Thinking about making the jump from KTM.
100% yes remove it. It's a good system it works well. And I know people have had a long life with it. But there's just something about mixing gas and knowing exactly what you got running through that engine at all times. I run 50 to 1 amsoil dominator.
Most people don’t realise u can’t use a regular Philipps on parts of bike, it’s not Philips it’s completely diff, get one of those screw drivers that comes with all the bits in the plastic thing, that will have right one in and wi have all ones u need
Ive raced japanese ditbikes and delt with keihins my entire adult life. 20+ years. Never had to buy a jis driver...always used phillips and never a problem. just use your brain when torqing on stuff you'l be fine.@@connorwilson8078
Good morning. I tell you what happened with my rr 300 racing 2024 . they came in the box i do it all. I have experience a lot. But the mix screw in carburettor said one a quarter right!?? I put gasoline i play soft 5 hours in the road after try the first time an enduro modes. Ok. After 4 hours the sparks brake!!! I buy another 35€ per one input it and after 8 Hours the same. I talked with my dealer they told me the problem was the oil. I put 1,8% ipone samurai oil. I said i see a lot of oil in the sparks. They said no is the oil i spoke with ipone i said they told me your oil something have inside and they burn my sparks. They said no way you have more fuel i said i talk to them but say to leave the screw in 1 and quarter. Anyway after that spoke the dealer , i said take my bike back is new I don't know what i do. They say ok come from here to check another. I try the 250 rr no racing and i stay with my mouth open. I said how its possible to have more midle and hi power ?? I order one new. My dealer told me take in the island back your bike take of all your extra stuff and send it to me to send you the new one. I said ok. I came back in paxos and i say I want to go one more time for enduro.after 3 hours the same problem.sparks proke . I changed again.I had power but never whellie with out cluch was like 125 cc maybe 200 no more. But in enduro gos well. Im 110 kilos with all Extra . Anyway go back to my garage and starting to take all my aftermarket stuff out. I take myne screws for carburettor. I take the air filter out and after 4 hours the bike was stock. And i say ok let's starting one to see everything is ok ? But with out filter. The screw again in one and quarter. I start my bike and I hear to work so difference. I say 😮 i put the filter and the bike can't breathe tha same way. I take the mix screw falf turn more out and my bike work a lot better. Ok i said lets run one in public road. I put second gear i open the throttle and whellie coming.i put 3 d the same 4 th tha same 😮 i said wat a fuck?? I spoke with my dealer i send them what probably was the problem no answer me never they read the message and nothing. And now i don't know what i do !! To give it ot no ? Was this the reason they burned my sparks or is something else ? They time pressure me. And i love my bike but I can't be sure they don't brake my sparks again. You have some experience of this ? Thanks
Based on what you're saying it seems to be running to rich. Make sure the air filter is oiled with air filter oil. Then check the jetting ( Main, pilot, and needle) and make sure it matches the factory manual settings. They are a good place to start. See how that goes.
No way in hell will I buy carburetor bike in 2024 that's like buying a new car with a carb always messing with jets an needles an slides no way for me .
I hear that, and you are correct. There is no jetting needed on an FI bike. But if you like tuning then a carb bike is awesome. It's great that we have both options.
It’s a two stroke race bike, A little carb tuning is nothing compared to the general level of maintenance these bikes required. Personally have always loved messing with jetting and it doesn’t get easier than on these bikes.
So instead, you have to mess with ECU re-mapping. Which most people cannot do themselves. Not all the FI bikes run good from the factory. I have a 23 150XCW right now, that needs a re-map because it is blubbery at 1/4 throttle.
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Looks much better than stock. There's like a mile of hoses coming off the carb!
Great video!
I run my vent hoses the same way.
One thing I'd recommend is getting yourself a couple chainsaw (in-tank) fuel filters to stick on the end of the vent hoses you ran to the airbox. It prevents dust from getting sucked into the hoses but also, more importantly, if you loop the bike or it crashes laying on its side past horizontal for more than a few seconds, the filter will absorb a lot of the gas and prevent it from flowing into the airbox or on the hot exhaust.
Great suggestion. Currently I use the PC racing carb vent kit. That may allow fuel to flow back. The saw filter idea is great.
2023 300 here. I moved my float height to 8mm to reduce fuel waste. I am 0-2500 and went 42p, 170p, NEDJ clip 4. That would seem really rich compared to jetting chart but its spot on for max torque and burns clean in my HE riding application. Jet to pref as always.
I agree that these bikes can be jetted much richer. I found this to be true with the high Compression head on my 21. Thanks for sharing your settings.
I went the same but with necj clip 3 at 0-250 ft. Runs super smooth off idle. Irc tire guy has a good demo vid.
I'm going to give that needle a try too. Thanks!
The TPS sensor pretty much adjusts voltage input to tell the ECU to adjust the computer. My Yz 2 strokes had them on bikes dating back to 2004. Don't remove the tps, it does way more than interact with the oil system your bike doesn't have.
There ir nothing better than tune our bikes and feel that we did a good job
Very true. It's one of the only things left where we can do that.
awesome. got mine on order cant wait to ride it. ive had so much success with the JD jet kit in the past and i have a spare needle laying around so I might as well throw it in.
I've also had luck with the JD kits too. I'd suggest trying to richen it up as far as you can.
@@JeffSanGeorge953 really? Thats interesting because the 300 uses the red needle on the 4th clip vs the 250 uses the blue needle on the 3rd clip which is just a bit richer. I ride around 700-1000ft and temperatures dont fluctuate enough to necessitate rejetting.
@@masterbeta343 With how easy it is to jet the bike it's always worth a try. The more fuel the more it will pull.
@@JeffSanGeorge953 i suppose. Im coming from a 250 to a 300 so im trying to maintain the revvy and snappy nature of the 250 but with the added bottom end and luggability of the 300. Itll just be a lot of trial and error for me getting it where i want.
I have had the 250 and 300 and the 250 is definitely more exciting with less vibes but I love my 300.@@masterbeta343
Suzuki NECJ needle and lowering the float level is the ticket
Where would you say you like the float? 5mm? That needle is magic.
I just tweak it 1 or 2 mm@@JeffSanGeorge953
@@JeffSanGeorge9535 mm is way too high for float height, I would set to 7 to 8 mm . My 23 ran rich , tried to compensate with a smaller pilot until I figured out the float was out from factory. I now run a necj needle , 38 pilot 165 main , sea level , runs sweet.
That's right where I've ended up. It's so much better.
Re: the float bowl JIS screws , you can just replace them with M4 (?) x appropriate length - looks like you already did this on the slide cap ?
Yes, that works well.
Just got my 24 300RE, I've gone through 2 tanks of gas. 35 miles per tank the first and 41 miles per tank the second fill. Going in to check the float height this week and hoping maybe it's not set right from factory. Current stock jetting at 300ft elevation, ridden at around 40-55 degrees with 5 hours on it now....thing is burning through gas...not sure what your fuel efficiency is looking like?
Check that float, that milage seems low to me.
Great professional video: you mention at the end an "old trick"to loop the lowest drain hose as I can see on your video. Question- what does this accomplish ?
It keeps the fuel in the bowl from draining out over jumps, whoops and up long hills. It will help with fuel economy.
Great Will follow that Advice tks
isnt that drain on the bottom where you made the loop closed to atmosphere until you open the drain screw??@@JeffSanGeorge953
There is no drain screw. If you tip your bike on the side, fuel will run out. It will also prevent excessive overfilling of the bowl.
Bizarre. My 23 250rr says 16 mm float height in the manual . I thought that seemed excessive. Wonder if that’s a typo
My guess is it is. Lots of typos in the Beta manuals
hola acabo de ver tu video y yo tambien quiero quitar el tps pero nose como hacer luego para que el marcador no tenga encendido el fallo. como se hace? gracias
Cuando controle el TPS de forma remota, deberá desconectar un cable de la pantalla. Aquí hay un enlace al video. ruclips.net/video/gmm1fneWNUo/видео.html
Why loop the bowl drain line? It looks like it wouldn’t drain the bowl with that loop seal in there.
The overflow still works but it takes more for it to happen with the loop. It improves mileage and prevents fuel starvation during extreme conditions, like long steep in hills and such.
If you do decide to do it tuck the loop so the shock spring doesn't rub on it.
I'm curious also why you removed the TPS. What's the advantage...are you just taking stuff off that's not needed. Any error codes etc....
The throttle position sensor is only on the bike to tell the computer how much oil to add. Since this bike does not come with oil injection they're simply no need for it. The only minor negative is it does add some resistance to the throttle pull. Beta leaves that on the bike because it is an option to add oil injection but I strongly recommend that you don't.
@@JeffSanGeorge953 oh ok, so you would recommend removing the Oi system on the standard RR models. Found a really good deal on a new leftover 2023 250 RR. Thinking about making the jump from KTM.
100% yes remove it. It's a good system it works well. And I know people have had a long life with it. But there's just something about mixing gas and knowing exactly what you got running through that engine at all times. I run 50 to 1 amsoil dominator.
Curious they put a tps sensor on a bike that doesnt need it.
Why would it not need it lol ?
Probably because of bulk buying the carbs in all one style. Same reason the float height always needs adjustment.
It’s for the oil injection system. If you delete and premix it’s not needed
Most people don’t realise u can’t use a regular Philipps on parts of bike, it’s not Philips it’s completely diff, get one of those screw drivers that comes with all the bits in the plastic thing, that will have right one in and wi have all ones u need
Those screws are JIS screws. Japanese Industrial Standard. They are close to Phillips
@@JeffSanGeorge953 but not Philips lol, it will round the bolt if u do, so no not close
Ive raced japanese ditbikes and delt with keihins my entire adult life. 20+ years. Never had to buy a jis driver...always used phillips and never a problem. just use your brain when torqing on stuff you'l be fine.@@connorwilson8078
Whats your attitude?
800 ft.
Good morning. I tell
you what happened with my rr 300 racing 2024 . they came in the box i do it all. I have experience a lot. But the mix screw in carburettor said one a quarter right!?? I put gasoline i play soft 5 hours in the road after try the first time an enduro modes. Ok. After 4 hours the sparks brake!!! I buy another 35€ per one input it and after 8 Hours the same. I talked with my dealer they told me the problem was the oil. I put 1,8% ipone samurai oil. I said i see a lot of oil in the sparks. They said no is the oil i spoke with ipone i said they told me your oil something have inside and they burn my sparks. They said no way you have more fuel i said i talk to them but say to leave the screw in 1 and quarter. Anyway after that spoke the dealer , i said take my bike back is new I don't know what i do. They say ok come from here to check another. I try the 250 rr no racing and i stay with my mouth open. I said how its possible to have more midle and hi power ?? I order one new. My dealer told me take in the island back your bike take of all your extra stuff and send it to me to send you the new one. I said ok. I came back in paxos and i say I want to go one more time for enduro.after 3 hours the same problem.sparks proke . I changed again.I had power but never whellie with out cluch was like 125 cc maybe 200 no more. But in enduro gos well. Im 110 kilos with all Extra . Anyway go back to my garage and starting to take all my aftermarket stuff out. I take myne screws for carburettor. I take the air filter out and after 4 hours the bike was stock. And i say ok let's starting one to see everything is ok ? But with out filter. The screw again in one and quarter. I start my bike and I hear to work so difference. I say 😮 i put the filter and the bike can't breathe tha same way. I take the mix screw falf turn more out and my bike work a lot better. Ok i said lets run one in public road. I put second gear i open the throttle and whellie coming.i put 3 d the same 4 th tha same 😮 i said wat a fuck?? I spoke with my dealer i send them what probably was the problem no answer me never they read the message and nothing. And now i don't know what i do !! To give it ot no ? Was this the reason they burned my sparks or is something else ? They time pressure me. And i love my bike but I can't be sure they don't brake my sparks again. You have some experience of this ? Thanks
Based on what you're saying it seems to be running to rich. Make sure the air filter is oiled with air filter oil. Then check the jetting ( Main, pilot, and needle) and make sure it matches the factory manual settings. They are a good place to start. See how that goes.
@@JeffSanGeorge953 thanks you
Hallo, i have same problem with my bike beta 300 2024 racing, what repair process?
Model year
2024
MY2024
@@290volvo It says it in the title and he states that in the video or are you just messing with the guy
Your best set up is spelled L-E-C-T-R-O-N….
If I was out west riding large elevation changes I'd agree with that.
If you like replacing the junk arse lectron slide meter that wears out constantly.
Btw...Height is height.
NOT HEIGHTH. So annoying
Ugg I know.
No way in hell will I buy carburetor bike in 2024 that's like buying a new car with a carb always messing with jets an needles an slides no way for me .
I hear that, and you are correct. There is no jetting needed on an FI bike. But if you like tuning then a carb bike is awesome. It's great that we have both options.
It’s a two stroke race bike, A little carb tuning is nothing compared to the general level of maintenance these bikes required. Personally have always loved messing with jetting and it doesn’t get easier than on these bikes.
I agree with that. These bikes are very easy to tune and work on.
So instead, you have to mess with ECU re-mapping. Which most people cannot do themselves. Not all the FI bikes run good from the factory. I have a 23 150XCW right now, that needs a re-map because it is blubbery at 1/4 throttle.
I wish the factory would allow you to remap the ECU but most lock them down. Kinda stinks.