So nice to have an electric driver for electronics when doing this. It allows you to focus on handling the delicate object more so then spinning the driver. I didn't understand until having experienced one myself, until then I thought it was probably more of a Hassle to get the electric driver and bit out vs just using standard screw drivers. I will say the one area that really surprised me about the HDzeros was the side antennas don't even have a nut on them and there is a clear gap around the goggle housing and SMA connector. For comparison my Walksnail VRX is actually glued in the housing/SMA gap and that's using SMA to UFL so it's not like it matters beyond spinning/wiggle.
🫣 Ohh my! Rather you than I…😉 This is going to be a superb video. Thx Ian. 27:20 Reference to making the SMA connectors a little more secure was a great idea. Good to know that they’ve addressed the issue in subsequent versions. 👍
Thank you for your tear down video and all of your videos. Now that you have had them for a year, what do you think about them and how do they compare to the other brands new releases
Mads, great content and presentation... Just the right amount of detail and pacing to get the goggles torn down if I ever need to! Special attention to the fuse and SMA connections where repairs are most likely!
Wild idea, but could I use some sort of fiber converter to be able to have one of the two receiver moduals setup across the field in order to get longer range and stringer signal? I'm currently doing research and trying to figure out if this is possible. At my work we use a similar idea for broadcast cameras but the whole system is massive, both transmitter and receiver. Of course the ideal is to be able to have multiple receiver units dotted around say a town or something in order to have a high quality, light weight drone follow camera. I'm interested in your opinion
So, did you remember to put that screw back in on the io/rf daughterboard before closing it all up? 😂 I noticed the other rf board seemed to have a SMD led marked RSSI? Any idea what that was about? Great video, and good to know what to expect if I need to work on them. Will be ordering mine on Wednesday, fingers crossed they'll incorporate the spacer, but easily fixed if they don't.
One important thing to probably do a follow up video. If you press the daughter board down like you did there is a high chance the white connector isn‘t connected properly. I removed the boards like 5 times to realize I have to press down right at the white connector, not at the top corner of the board) until it fully snaps in. Else you probably going to end up with a hello kitty screen, not working scroll wheel or battery voltage detection.
Ian, why did you choose not to use the spacer with the recess to take an SMA nut on the inside of the goggles (also available from same person who designed the other pieces you are using)?
Excellent teardown Ian, thanks! Looking forward to getting my set even more now ;-) Now I don't need to open up mine to see what's inside, but if I have to open them I'll know how.
Another excellent video Ian. Did you find the RTC, I heard it was possible to add a battery and the clock would then just work or is there a software update / development required? I would be interested in your views on this.
I think I saw a debug pad that had rtc in the label but I'm not sure where and I'm on a phone so it's hard to look again. Pull up the photos like he did on a computer and look for that pad. Trace where it goes to and you can probably determine what's going on. Also, you could check the voltage when it's off and when it's on and see what it shows. And there's a slight chance you could solder a wire to that pad and to a gnd and connect a coin cell batt. But this is all just a guess. Comment again if you figure it out. Dvr with a proper time stamp is almost a requirement, so I'm really hoping the goggles have a rtc.
Is there any chance you could PLEASE take a look at the optics as this would be very helpful as I am in need of a little help doing so as I have the floating optics issue.
@@MadRC It is a known issue with all batches bar the ones being produced right now. It is where you can see the optics physically moving outwards and in when you raise your head. There are more cases cropping up on the fb page. The optics are moving towards you when you raise your head and falling back when you drop your head, this is more noticeable when your in the menu section. It makes them go from being perfectly in focus to completely out of focus. Carl & Gao are aware of this issue but, I was just wondering if you could make a video of taking the optics out as I am about to do so quite soon with mine.
@@mrph678 That would be amazing if someone looked at them and see if there is a fix that does not involve sending in the goggles to a repair facility. Two weeks turn around sucks and if someone buys used goggles that have this issue might not be covered with HDZero? 🤷♂ Would be nice if there was a DIY fix.
Thank you for this fantastic breakdown video, you went into incredible detail. One thing I noticed that you didn’t mention was any kind of accelerometer for the head tracking. I’m not sure if head tracking is activated yet or it will be activated in a further software. Thanks again.
I would appreciate it if you spent a little more time on the ocular section in these videos. My main reason for being here is to see if IPD adjustments can be made beyond the factory specifications (with 3d printed shells). Relevent topics for me would include if the optic alignment bar can be removed and replaced. if any part of the assembly is rigidly mounted to the outer shell, etc. Most goggles don't fit my IPD, and these are no exception. If by chance you see this message and can incorporate more data in the future, I'd love to buy you a beer or sub to your patreon.
Would be good to be able to simply push something over the sma,s from the outside rather that opening it up.... Which from the vids I've seen a Bitch to do.
@@rp479 needing to print some washers says plenty in regards to hardware design, mr fashion, who was talking about the looks? Dunno who hurt you, but it will be fine, no worries ;)
More like first production run hiccups... can happen with any new product/design. This is why it's good to wait for the reviewers to get their hands on stuff, or a couple months after launch.
This kind of mod for a "premium" goggle shouldn't be necessary and is yet another failing on HDzero rushing a product out, much like the first few batches of VTX-L that were not properly designed for 6s.
It's to be expected for the first production batch for *any* system. edit: as with Sir Missalot below, I find their willingness to admit to and resolve the issue to be the important takeaway from this.
well... its their first goggles and they fixed it for the next production wave. and the people that have that problem can send them in free of charge or do it themselfs if they don't want to wait. i rather have a company that stands by their errors and fixes them with options on how to fix them then a company like dji that doesn't care about its customers.
I just followed-up the instructions and my googles have now the sma mod!!!!! Thanks a million!
So nice to have an electric driver for electronics when doing this. It allows you to focus on handling the delicate object more so then spinning the driver. I didn't understand until having experienced one myself, until then I thought it was probably more of a Hassle to get the electric driver and bit out vs just using standard screw drivers.
I will say the one area that really surprised me about the HDzeros was the side antennas don't even have a nut on them and there is a clear gap around the goggle housing and SMA connector. For comparison my Walksnail VRX is actually glued in the housing/SMA gap and that's using SMA to UFL so it's not like it matters beyond spinning/wiggle.
🫣 Ohh my! Rather you than I…😉 This is going to be a superb video. Thx Ian. 27:20 Reference to making the SMA connectors a little more secure was a great idea. Good to know that they’ve addressed the issue in subsequent versions. 👍
Every Video on these Goggles I see makes me love them even more. THANK YOU For the Great Video!
Yea my dji fell broke sma mount. Luckily it's only a mount. Cause has cable to ufl plug
Great video thank u IAN. This goggles are also not so difficult to work with in the inside if we need to repair or clean them.
Thank you for your tear down video and all of your videos. Now that you have had them for a year, what do you think about them and how do they compare to the other brands new releases
Thanks. Please show installing the battery for the RTC.
Mads, great content and presentation... Just the right amount of detail and pacing to get the goggles torn down if I ever need to! Special attention to the fuse and SMA connections where repairs are most likely!
Ian. Great job. Thank you 👍
Wild idea, but could I use some sort of fiber converter to be able to have one of the two receiver moduals setup across the field in order to get longer range and stringer signal? I'm currently doing research and trying to figure out if this is possible. At my work we use a similar idea for broadcast cameras but the whole system is massive, both transmitter and receiver.
Of course the ideal is to be able to have multiple receiver units dotted around say a town or something in order to have a high quality, light weight drone follow camera. I'm interested in your opinion
So, did you remember to put that screw back in on the io/rf daughterboard before closing it all up? 😂 I noticed the other rf board seemed to have a SMD led marked RSSI? Any idea what that was about? Great video, and good to know what to expect if I need to work on them. Will be ordering mine on Wednesday, fingers crossed they'll incorporate the spacer, but easily fixed if they don't.
One important thing to probably do a follow up video. If you press the daughter board down like you did there is a high chance the white connector isn‘t connected properly. I removed the boards like 5 times to realize I have to press down right at the white connector, not at the top corner of the board) until it fully snaps in. Else you probably going to end up with a hello kitty screen, not working scroll wheel or battery voltage detection.
Ian, why did you choose not to use the spacer with the recess to take an SMA nut on the inside of the goggles (also available from same person who designed the other pieces you are using)?
Watching this tear down video while I install my Walk Snail vtx😭😭
Excellent teardown Ian, thanks! Looking forward to getting my set even more now ;-)
Now I don't need to open up mine to see what's inside, but if I have to open them I'll know how.
This is going to be really interesting !
wow I'd be pissed if i had to go through all that, can we cancel our pre orders?
Another excellent video Ian. Did you find the RTC, I heard it was possible to add a battery and the clock would then just work or is there a software update / development required? I would be interested in your views on this.
I think I saw a debug pad that had rtc in the label but I'm not sure where and I'm on a phone so it's hard to look again. Pull up the photos like he did on a computer and look for that pad. Trace where it goes to and you can probably determine what's going on. Also, you could check the voltage when it's off and when it's on and see what it shows. And there's a slight chance you could solder a wire to that pad and to a gnd and connect a coin cell batt. But this is all just a guess. Comment again if you figure it out. Dvr with a proper time stamp is almost a requirement, so I'm really hoping the goggles have a rtc.
the V536 (not V356 as you did in the video) is a camera SoC. Linux will be running on the FPGA and not the V536.
Is there any chance you could PLEASE take a look at the optics as this would be very helpful as I am in need of a little help doing so as I have the floating optics issue.
Please can you explain what floating optics is ?
@@MadRC It is a known issue with all batches bar the ones being produced right now. It is where you can see the optics physically moving outwards and in when you raise your head. There are more cases cropping up on the fb page. The optics are moving towards you when you raise your head and falling back when you drop your head, this is more noticeable when your in the menu section. It makes them go from being perfectly in focus to completely out of focus. Carl & Gao are aware of this issue but, I was just wondering if you could make a video of taking the optics out as I am about to do so quite soon with mine.
I thought I had already posted a reply to this but, not sure if it was removed by accident or I didn't post it properly?
@@mrph678 That would be amazing if someone looked at them and see if there is a fix that does not involve sending in the goggles to a repair facility. Two weeks turn around sucks and if someone buys used goggles that have this issue might not be covered with HDZero? 🤷♂
Would be nice if there was a DIY fix.
Don't worry I've replaced the faulty optics and it was an extremely easy task to do.
Thank you for this fantastic breakdown video, you went into incredible detail. One thing I noticed that you didn’t mention was any kind of accelerometer for the head tracking. I’m not sure if head tracking is activated yet or it will be activated in a further software. Thanks again.
Are the IPD adjustment knobs easy to remove? I really want to paint the green plastics of the goggles :)
I skipped the spring washer. I don't think it adds anything to the system
Any word on whether this fix will be needed on goggles shipped in March and after?
Feels like I personally took it apart. Well done!, nicely laid out and explained. 👍
Very nice to not see brittle flex ribbon cables all over the place.
謝謝！
Thank you for effort and explanation.
how do i convert the printables files, i tried a few converters but it messes them up
Hello, I need to replace the SMD fuse, for an inadvertent one of mine in polarity version. can you tell me the value of this component? Thanks a lot
I would be going 3A.
@@MadRC thanks again, isn't there also a one volt value?
SMA Mod starts at 41:15 for those that are too lazy to scrub through the time line.
I would appreciate it if you spent a little more time on the ocular section in these videos. My main reason for being here is to see if IPD adjustments can be made beyond the factory specifications (with 3d printed shells). Relevent topics for me would include if the optic alignment bar can be removed and replaced. if any part of the assembly is rigidly mounted to the outer shell, etc. Most goggles don't fit my IPD, and these are no exception. If by chance you see this message and can incorporate more data in the future, I'd love to buy you a beer or sub to your patreon.
Let me know if you figure(d) anything out here. With an IPD of 74 Im not sure if its worth it to try and modify a brand new pair of goggles.
Someone knows if the hardware designs will also be open source in the future? Or just firmware?
Only parts of the firmware will be open sourced.
I think all of the design will be open source except for the HDZero ASIC chip. Keep in mind analog ASIC chips are closed source too.
thats a big no way from me dawg. excellent to see inside but if I ever buy these, no way I am opening them up.
39:48 January I guess?
Would be good to be able to simply push something over the sma,s from the outside rather that opening it up.... Which from the vids I've seen a Bitch to do.
Great idea!
should never use metal if possible
Nice 1990 goggles design 🤦🏼♂️
Glad they focused more on the software/hardware then the fashion.
@@rp479 needing to print some washers says plenty in regards to hardware design, mr fashion, who was talking about the looks? Dunno who hurt you, but it will be fine, no worries ;)
bro what is your problem? nice middle school level insult
More like first production run hiccups... can happen with any new product/design. This is why it's good to wait for the reviewers to get their hands on stuff, or a couple months after launch.
@@Mannniee you got but hurt too ? :))
This kind of mod for a "premium" goggle shouldn't be necessary and is yet another failing on HDzero rushing a product out, much like the first few batches of VTX-L that were not properly designed for 6s.
It's to be expected for the first production batch for *any* system. edit: as with Sir Missalot below, I find their willingness to admit to and resolve the issue to be the important takeaway from this.
well... its their first goggles and they fixed it for the next production wave. and the people that have that problem can send them in free of charge or do it themselfs if they don't want to wait. i rather have a company that stands by their errors and fixes them with options on how to fix them then a company like dji that doesn't care about its customers.
I just ordered Hdzero goggles and I can’t believe I need to do this process ….. 😢
If they are new you won’t need to it’s being done from the factory now.
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