I just completed my 2-din install on a non-nav radio unit, was very easy after watching your video. I had to remove about 1/4 inch from the sides and top of the bezel for the install kit to fit correctly. What I did different was, not mounting the bezel to the head unit, I left it separate for easy installation as a separate unit. Since all the bezels were removed for this, I removed the push buttons and controls for the AC and cleaned each component. I didn't like the silver color of the bezels so, I looked locally for a matching wood wrap and settled on a black leather wrap instead. I did have issues in the areas above the vents but, it works for me.
I do test runs at the junkyard. Pretty much did the same thing except the ash tray bolt and I also came in from the top. I took the bottom two bolts out but disregarded the top two. What happened next happened fast. The top clips of the dash panel popped right out but then the middle two snapped right off.
@@conquryourfear Do you happen to know if they make a dash kit for it. My friend installed a new amp without taking the dash out by jumping wires or some crazy way. However it worked for about a year then stopped working. thinking of taking it in to a shop to have them install a aftermarket i was using the fact radio.
LetsGo Now I’m not certain but if I was a betting man (which in this case I would be) they have a dash kit. As far as your friends amp only lasting for a year, it was most likely a cheapy.
@@letsgonow5641 PAC Audio does have a dash kit, you can find it on Amazon. Just search FMK540 and you'll find it for about $10. However, if you have the non-navigation model you'll need to cut out the plastic bit between the display and the 6-CD changer, otherwise Metra sells a single-DIN kit with the model number 99-5813. You'll also need a radio harness, which Metra also sells with the model number 70-5520. If you want to retain steering wheel controls (SWC), you'll need a SWI-CP2 from PAC and an authorized dealer to install it for you. The car audio dealership I work at will sell all of these things over the counter except for the SWC interface simply because it requires training to set up. As for your friends amp, depending on the model it might have crapped out like conquryourfear said, but more likely it was a wiring issue. Also depending on the amp it will have "low-level" and some have "high-level" inputs. Low-level is the RCAs that come out of the back of an aftermarket head unit, whereas high-level would be what flows through the speaker wires. If your friend tried to connect high-level outputs to low-level inputs, then that's what would've fried his amp. Fortunately, there is a way around this, by using a line output converter, more commonly known among the installers as a LOC. Simply put, it takes the high-level outputs from your factory head unit and converts them into low-level inputs that are safe for the amp to use. If your friend used one of these or connected to dedicated high-level inputs on the amp, then yeah. It was a crappy amp. Don't know if you're still looking but thought I might give my 2c and hope it helped lol
@@ch3ncerpau148 Hi thanks for getting back. Last year i was having trouble with my stock radio. I had it hooked up with a LOC. I took it to an Audio shop who said my radio was messed up. I was surprise because factory radios usually last the last the life of the car. I asked him about installing an Aft Mark radio and he said it would be difficult or i could purchase the who bezel and swap it out. Anyways i actually wound up purch a single Din radio and took it somewhere else. All for not because there was nothing wrong with the factory radio. It was just poor wiring...Anyways i have the single din unit in there not too happy from an aesthetics point.
I just completed my 2-din install on a non-nav radio unit, was very easy after watching your video. I had to remove about 1/4 inch from the sides and top of the bezel for the install kit to fit correctly. What I did different was, not mounting the bezel to the head unit, I left it separate for easy installation as a separate unit. Since all the bezels were removed for this, I removed the push buttons and controls for the AC and cleaned each component. I didn't like the silver color of the bezels so, I looked locally for a matching wood wrap and settled on a black leather wrap instead. I did have issues in the areas above the vents but, it works for me.
Man, i'm glad you made this video. Im getting ready to do this very thing, so this helps out 100%. Great Video.
Your are welcome. Happy holidays. Show your love by subscribing to my channel- as this helps to support my channel
@@conquryourfear I am subscribing now. Happy Holidays
Way to do it the hard way lmao
i giggled my ass off at this comment! cause buddy seemed lost a few times LMAO
I do test runs at the junkyard. Pretty much did the same thing except the ash tray bolt and I also came in from the top. I took the bottom two bolts out but disregarded the top two. What happened next happened fast. The top clips of the dash panel popped right out but then the middle two snapped right off.
You know the deal for sure
What size radio do I need?
2 din
@@conquryourfear Do you happen to know if they make a dash kit for it. My friend installed a new amp without taking the dash out by jumping wires or some crazy way. However it worked for about a year then stopped working. thinking of taking it in to a shop to have them install a aftermarket i was using the fact radio.
LetsGo Now I’m not certain but if I was a betting man (which in this case I would be) they have a dash kit. As far as your friends amp only lasting for a year, it was most likely a cheapy.
@@letsgonow5641 PAC Audio does have a dash kit, you can find it on Amazon. Just search FMK540 and you'll find it for about $10. However, if you have the non-navigation model you'll need to cut out the plastic bit between the display and the 6-CD changer, otherwise Metra sells a single-DIN kit with the model number 99-5813. You'll also need a radio harness, which Metra also sells with the model number 70-5520. If you want to retain steering wheel controls (SWC), you'll need a SWI-CP2 from PAC and an authorized dealer to install it for you. The car audio dealership I work at will sell all of these things over the counter except for the SWC interface simply because it requires training to set up.
As for your friends amp, depending on the model it might have crapped out like conquryourfear said, but more likely it was a wiring issue. Also depending on the amp it will have "low-level" and some have "high-level" inputs. Low-level is the RCAs that come out of the back of an aftermarket head unit, whereas high-level would be what flows through the speaker wires. If your friend tried to connect high-level outputs to low-level inputs, then that's what would've fried his amp. Fortunately, there is a way around this, by using a line output converter, more commonly known among the installers as a LOC. Simply put, it takes the high-level outputs from your factory head unit and converts them into low-level inputs that are safe for the amp to use. If your friend used one of these or connected to dedicated high-level inputs on the amp, then yeah. It was a crappy amp.
Don't know if you're still looking but thought I might give my 2c and hope it helped lol
@@ch3ncerpau148 Hi thanks for getting back. Last year i was having trouble with my stock radio. I had it hooked up with a LOC. I took it to an Audio shop who said my radio was messed up. I was surprise because factory radios usually last the last the life of the car. I asked him about installing an Aft Mark radio and he said it would be difficult or i could purchase the who bezel and swap it out. Anyways i actually wound up purch a single Din radio and took it somewhere else. All for not because there was nothing wrong with the factory radio. It was just poor wiring...Anyways i have the single din unit in there not too happy from an aesthetics point.