Wow, Granddad was right, I do like what I see you have done. I have experimented with the brown packing, or wrapping paper that is labeled lightweight and it is compared to other options like it. I have seen this done in a number of videos and in each they express the need to do both sides at the same time so the wing is less likely to try and warp as long as both sides dry out at the same rate. I think that is what you are suggesting in this video also.
Tips: The paper comes off much easier if you mist it with a water spray. The paper should be removed from both sides, then the tape applied, then bend. The results are better. If you leave the paper on, it will NOT be waterproof and even high humidity could cause it to peel off. The PVA GLUE is not waterproof.
Why would you start in the center of the wing? By starting at the trailing edge the finished seem would be closer to either the trailing or leading edge. Thus hiding the seem line better.
This was a repair job. The original wing was an experiment. It had no spar. I inserted a spar in the center section and this was recovering this section. I discovered that polystyrene covered with brown paper will fail in compression. A spar is needed to prevent this issue.
good video, but yo don't really need to soak the paper in water. Whe the glue solution is applied it will soak into the paper. What kind of paint would you use and do you prime the paper? Thanks for sharing.
It appears he doesn't reply to comments, or RUclips is having issues again and he never saw your comment. I am sure the reason he primes the paper with water is so less glue is needed, which is likely thinned a bit also. As to paint, most use acrylic paints, but the paper and glue combo does make it possible to use almost any paint that won't add significant weight. That is assuming the paper skin is preventing the paint from soak through to the foam. There are more than a few other videos like this that go into more details.
@@wattwaster5936 Hi, I am sorry for the late reply. Priorities have shifted due to health issues (pernicious anemia) and a 20% reduction in income (economic byproduct of c-virus). I found by experiment that pre-soaking the brown paper (5 min) allowed it to fully expand. I hang the paper up until it stops dripping then apply the glue. The white glue seems to penetrate better and results in improved adhesion. You should also notice the paper wraps the wing completely with a generous overlap on the leading edge. Thin the glue until it is easily paint-able. While the glue and paper is still wet, I wipe the completed covering down with a moist cloth. This gets the last of the bubbles out and removes any white glue from the exterior surface. Within a short period (30 min) I coat the whole surface with a water based urethane (which dries at the same time as the glue to form a hard skin). The trick is to allow everything to dry slowly (in the shade). In warm weather do this in the evening and allow overnight to dry. Once dry, fill any hollows with lightweight spackle, sand smooth and paint. ruclips.net/video/4wDGqfhrEEw/видео.html start at 4.30. Also ruclips.net/video/C9jWIAJLxgw/видео.html start at 3.00 and ruclips.net/video/hpz5sO37Nzo/видео.html
@@flyingweed9671 Nice details the other videos in my playlist often don't get into. Thanks and I know what you mean about life and priorities. I am an old guy and feel your pain. I have plenty of my own to deal with.
Yep. It's heavy when wet, but it drys and becomes light and strong. The trick is to dry slowly and evenly to prevent warping. When the wing fails, it fails on the upper surface, in compression.
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Wow, Granddad was right, I do like what I see you have done. I have experimented with the brown packing, or wrapping paper that is labeled lightweight and it is compared to other options like it. I have seen this done in a number of videos and in each they express the need to do both sides at the same time so the wing is less likely to try and warp as long as both sides dry out at the same rate. I think that is what you are suggesting in this video also.
Great! It looks great, thanks for sharing.
Tips:
The paper comes off much easier if you mist it with a water spray.
The paper should be removed from both sides, then the tape applied, then bend. The results are better.
If you leave the paper on, it will NOT be waterproof and even high humidity could cause it to peel off.
The PVA GLUE is not waterproof.
Why would you start in the center of the wing? By starting at the trailing edge the finished seem would be closer to either the trailing or leading edge. Thus hiding the seem line better.
This was a repair job. The original wing was an experiment. It had no spar. I inserted a spar in the center section and this was recovering this section.
I discovered that polystyrene covered with brown paper will fail in compression. A spar is needed to prevent this issue.
I just found out that white glue sticks to epo
good video, but yo don't really need to soak the paper in water. Whe the glue solution is applied it will soak into the paper.
What kind of paint would you use and do you prime the paper?
Thanks for sharing.
It appears he doesn't reply to comments, or RUclips is having issues again and he never saw your comment. I am sure the reason he primes the paper with water is so less glue is needed, which is likely thinned a bit also. As to paint, most use acrylic paints, but the paper and glue combo does make it possible to use almost any paint that won't add significant weight. That is assuming the paper skin is preventing the paint from soak through to the foam. There are more than a few other videos like this that go into more details.
@@wattwaster5936 Hi, I am sorry for the late reply. Priorities have shifted due to health issues (pernicious anemia) and a 20% reduction in income (economic byproduct of c-virus). I found by experiment that pre-soaking the brown paper (5 min) allowed it to fully expand.
I hang the paper up until it stops dripping then apply the glue. The white glue seems to penetrate better and results in improved adhesion. You should also notice the paper wraps the wing completely with a generous overlap on the leading edge. Thin the glue until it is easily paint-able.
While the glue and paper is still wet, I wipe the completed covering down with a moist cloth. This gets the last of the bubbles out and removes any white glue from the exterior surface. Within a short period (30 min) I coat the whole surface with a water based urethane (which dries at the same time as the glue to form a hard skin).
The trick is to allow everything to dry slowly (in the shade). In warm weather do this in the evening and allow overnight to dry.
Once dry, fill any hollows with lightweight spackle, sand smooth and paint. ruclips.net/video/4wDGqfhrEEw/видео.html start at 4.30.
Also ruclips.net/video/C9jWIAJLxgw/видео.html start at 3.00 and ruclips.net/video/hpz5sO37Nzo/видео.html
@@flyingweed9671 Nice details the other videos in my playlist often don't get into. Thanks and I know what you mean about life and priorities. I am an old guy and feel your pain. I have plenty of my own to deal with.
@@flyingweed9671 очень не качественная работа
Nice
Jesus. What a mess. Perhaps this type of process should be done outside.
seem heavy
Yep. It's heavy when wet, but it drys and becomes light and strong.
The trick is to dry slowly and evenly to prevent warping.
When the wing fails, it fails on the upper surface, in compression.