Hi there, thanks for sharing. What about the water inlet mechanism, please, from the cold water tank into the boiling compartment, is there some sort of non-return valve that allows the boiling water to be pushed up to the top dispenser?
Exactly, a one way valve is between two compartments. When water boils steam increases pressure there and this closes the valve trapping hot water in that compartment. The same steam pressure pushes all hot water into the cup. Then pressure drops, opens valve and cold water goes into boiling compartment ready for cycle to repeat. This assembly is one element without access to service.
I am guessing you are asking about switch illumination? There are two screws underneath lid securing the plastic top cover around switch. After undoing them pull the cover with the lid up. Now you can see the switch and LED light in front of the switch. If the LED is blown you need soldering iron and appropriate skills to replace it. There is a high mains voltage at the wires going into the switch, please be sure you look after your safety and know what you are doing when working on any wiring inside the kettle!
This is really good if something goes wrong. However the stupid design to make the handle part of the tank doesn’t take in account that when the internal part of the handle gets in my case coated with green algae it is impossible to clean. Unless some one can give me a simple way to do it.
Try filling the tank with a hot water and suitable descaler. A good and strong descalers often used by 'pros' are denture cleaners (products used to clean teeth prostesis). They are designed to efficiently remove both mineral (limescale) and organic (bacteria and fungi) residues.
I'd love to know how the cup size mechanism works and how more water is sucked into the base of the kettle so fast after it's boiled. Mine sounds like a horse and the water level drops in a split second. It's like there's a vacuum in the heating section but then if there is how did it force the water out of the spout
It is simple physics: 2 chambers separated by one way valve. When water boils in the lower chamber pressure from steam increases closing valve and pushing hot water out. Heater switches off, pressure in the lower compartment drops, valve opens and water floods it with gravity.
Would you be able to advise if it is possible to fix a faulty LED light in this model? Mine started to fade, then blink each time in use, now barely illuminates, although it still boils the water. Thank you.
Thank you for asking. I have not checked the exact circuitry employed here. Usually driving LED from mains voltage involves capacitor +/- resistor and LED connected in series. I will be changing switch that failed once again soon and I may look into this then. But all my tools are still packed up due to moving house so it is not happening immediately. LEDs are cheap, I would get any blue LED and simply replace it first. It is relatively straight forward job, LED is easy to access being wired to the switch terminals. However please remember LED does work with mains voltage - be careful, know what you are doing and do the wiring properly and safe!
@zadzwon112 Thank you for your prompt response, much appreciated. Am I correct in thinking then that the LED associated with this Neville Hot Cup machine, is located on or close to the power switch? I have as yet not started to disassemble until I gain better knowledge of what and where to look. I do not know where the LED source is on this machine. Kind regards.
@@SteiffCollector There are actually 2 LEDs: one for the switch and the other one to illuminate the tank. I was talking about the switch one in my previous reply. You can clearly see it in my video. I do not recall location of the tank illumination.
Thanks for sharing informative video
Hi there, thanks for sharing.
What about the water inlet mechanism, please, from the cold water tank into the boiling compartment, is there some sort of non-return valve that allows the boiling water to be pushed up to the top dispenser?
Exactly, a one way valve is between two compartments. When water boils steam increases pressure there and this closes the valve trapping hot water in that compartment. The same steam pressure pushes all hot water into the cup. Then pressure drops, opens valve and cold water goes into boiling compartment ready for cycle to repeat. This assembly is one element without access to service.
Hi I’ve watched your video but you don’t show how to change the light for the chamber nd top m8nes stopped working. Help please
I am guessing you are asking about switch illumination? There are two screws underneath lid securing the plastic top cover around switch. After undoing them pull the cover with the lid up. Now you can see the switch and LED light in front of the switch. If the LED is blown you need soldering iron and appropriate skills to replace it. There is a high mains voltage at the wires going into the switch, please be sure you look after your safety and know what you are doing when working on any wiring inside the kettle!
This is really good if something goes wrong. However the stupid design to make the handle part of the tank doesn’t take in account that when the internal part of the handle gets in my case coated with green algae it is impossible to clean. Unless some one can give me a simple way to do it.
Try filling the tank with a hot water and suitable descaler. A good and strong descalers often used by 'pros' are denture cleaners (products used to clean teeth prostesis). They are designed to efficiently remove both mineral (limescale) and organic (bacteria and fungi) residues.
I'd love to know how the cup size mechanism works and how more water is sucked into the base of the kettle so fast after it's boiled. Mine sounds like a horse and the water level drops in a split second. It's like there's a vacuum in the heating section but then if there is how did it force the water out of the spout
It is simple physics: 2 chambers separated by one way valve. When water boils in the lower chamber pressure from steam increases closing valve and pushing hot water out. Heater switches off, pressure in the lower compartment drops, valve opens and water floods it with gravity.
On my hot cup neither of the LEDs are working sadly but it still boils fine
Would you be able to advise if it is possible to fix a faulty LED light in this model? Mine started to fade, then blink each time in use, now barely illuminates, although it still boils the water.
Thank you.
Thank you for asking. I have not checked the exact circuitry employed here. Usually driving LED from mains voltage involves capacitor +/- resistor and LED connected in series. I will be changing switch that failed once again soon and I may look into this then. But all my tools are still packed up due to moving house so it is not happening immediately. LEDs are cheap, I would get any blue LED and simply replace it first. It is relatively straight forward job, LED is easy to access being wired to the switch terminals. However please remember LED does work with mains voltage - be careful, know what you are doing and do the wiring properly and safe!
@zadzwon112 Thank you for your prompt response, much appreciated.
Am I correct in thinking then that the LED associated with this Neville Hot Cup machine, is located on or close to the power switch?
I have as yet not started to disassemble until I gain better knowledge of what and where to look.
I do not know where the LED source is on this machine.
Kind regards.
@@SteiffCollector There are actually 2 LEDs: one for the switch and the other one to illuminate the tank. I was talking about the switch one in my previous reply. You can clearly see it in my video. I do not recall location of the tank illumination.
what controls the amount of water? Can it be changed ?
Is it just a timer?
Yes, the 'on time' is programmed into the controller. The only way is to choose cup size by user.
Is the heating chamber and outlet pipe made of aluminium or steel?
I have not got to remove heating element/heating chamber in exploring the kettle, Simple answer is I do not know.