I recently ordered this kit, I know this is an old video, but it has helped GREATLY. Mine came with ZERO instructions and I have a feeling I wouldn't be able to read them if they did. I have watched (most) of the videos on RUclips assembling these kits. It was very confusing because some people had the Anode going into the board and others the cathode. I plan on just following your build regardless. Thank you for taking the time to make this to help others like myself to build this. I really appreciate the tip about orientation. I seen one video where he installed all the led's pointing up, that seemed like a much better way, but there was not much instruction given for that.
John, Thank You for the video/documentation !! I was able to assemble/wire the cube with minimual problems (three solder joint breaks.) Now I'll need to learn programming for the computer hook-up part. Thanks again !
@@simonspure Sorry I honestly don't remember, I haven't powered up the cube in 2 or 3 years now. I don't recall doing anything special, just plugging it in and running the software but it's been a long time.
If I may offer a construction trick, solder the little 'connectors' to the ends of the LED array first. They are MUCH easier dropped into the holes on the PCB than trying to jam the LED leads into the little sockets on the connectors. Of course this means that the whole array needs to be soldered to the PCB permanently to keep the LED array from popping off the PCB. I built my second kit this way and save a lot of frustration. Hope this helps someone.
Hello Dave. I have the same board as above but it came with a bag of part and no instructions. There are lots of SMD resistors and capacitors and no idea where they go. Since you built this kit twice, I assume you have instructions, schematic and useful suggestions. would you mind sharing assembly material you have. Thank you in advance. my email is shodanone@gmail.com Regards
Thank you John for your video, it help me a lot to build the cube. I have a question: "What is the name of the program you use to control the cube via PC?" I took a look into the zip file, mentioned in the other comments, but I didn't find it. Thnx.
Hello, please, can you send me the photo of the back side of PCB board. I ordered unwelded one, but seller ddnt send to me instructions, where i should put capacitors and transistors...(( they have color designations, but i dnt know where they should be on PCB board UPDT: Thx found your photos in comments 👍🏼
5 лет назад
Hello John, what software is used to program and create our own standard? Thanks
Hi John I have purchased the same cube 8x8x8 I've fitted one 8x8x8 led matrix and it works OK but when I fit two it seems to short out. I have checked the LEDs and there's no shorts.
I have solderd the first 8x8x8 on the board with the wires attached and it flashies in sequence no problem. But as soon as I attach the second row it seems to go faulty with random flashing.
Hey greetings, one hobby I have bought a kit and have finished assembling it, I thought it was programmed in STC IC and apparently not and now I'm confused about what to do ☹️ and I think now I need software to program it please help me🙏🙏🙏
Hi John - great video! Careful what you ask for. I just got my kit and the main board was NOT assembled - it came with zero instruction (just a board and a bag of parts). The seller finally got me a parts list and a schematic. I am an advanced tech, but wish me luck anyway. I will consider your cage assembly advice of course (side vs. bottom, test as you go, USB dongle...). The seller also did not send the software. Can you provide a link or resource were I might find it? Thanks.
Hi blewfish, So glad I found your comment, I also have a kit with a bag of parts and no instructions. I have no idea what goes where re. small resistors and capacitors. Anyways would you mind sharing your schematic and part list along with any comments you may have. my email is shodanone@gmail.com
@@Soaringpython files.banggood.com/2016/10/888-Light-Cube-Files.zip The parts list appears to match the device I have (ie. 4x220uF capacitors at C2, C6, C13、C18 / 8002B SO-8 Chip at U18 / 0.1uF (104) capacitor under the DIP at C7). I searched for hours for the parts list. Now onto assembling the board with my soon to be SMD soldering skills.
Hello. You seem like an expert, and I am not finding any more information googling it. I just finished building this exact kit. However, programming is a huge headache. Even more work than building the kit. When I plug it in, all the LEDS turn on and theres a very vague animation where most LEDs stay one and some turn off. I can't get anything else uploaded. I tried using STC-ISP but it has trouble recognizing .HEX files I feel like. I tried using 3D8 TF software but even though the COM port is connected, it doesn't control my cube at all. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
I think you may have assembled the kit with the anode and cathode of the LEDs switched, or the rows and columns switched. I got about 1/3 of the way through assembly, I was doing as-I-went testing, and with 3 or 4 planes in place I noticed the same as what you're noticing. I experimentally did something (sorry it's been over a year) - I think rotated one of the planes 90 degrees, and it started working properly. What you're describing is exactly what I was seeing then. I'm sorry to bring you this news since it's a pain in the butt to fix it but that's probably what's needed. I wound up disassembling and reassembling, because the planes are rectangular rather than square so they didn't fit right just rotating them.
What OS are you using? It's a simple USB to TTL serial adapter. Mine uses the CH340 chip. With Windows 10, just plug it in and it'll find the driver. Windows 7 worked automatically for me as well. Others, look for CH340 driver. If you have some other chip such as FTDI in whatever they sent you, look for that. I doubt they're using the FTDI chip though.
I use Win10, the USB device is the USB TTL. But as soon as I insert the USB part, I get an error. Even if I install manuel the driver remains the error.
I think I know where the problem lies. The chip is a 2303 HX. And this is not supported by Win 10. I will have to buy a new USB TTL. Thanks for the reply.
Great that you figured it out. Bummer you have to buy something new but at least it's cheap and easy. I recommend getting a board with the CH340 chip in it. Very well supported and cheap. And the manufacturer of that chip has never released a driver that broke other people's hardware.
Hi John. I have purchased the same kit but unlike yours the board is not already soldered and I have no instructions of where the components go.No instructions come with the kit. Do you know where i can get the instructions
what do you do, it more than one LED comes on in the testing? I have already replaced the LEDs, that comes on once, but it doesnt solve the problem. :S how should i fix this?
You mean when you're testing a single panel, you have more than one LED come on at once? That has to be a wiring fault, there's no way a bad LED could cause that to happen that I could think of. Either shorts or LEDs in reverse direction would be my guess.
John Ridley yes, it happens when testig a single plane. A have completed thw whole cube since then, but in the case of some leds, more than one light comes on. And they are not even neightbours. There must be some problem with very different resistance i suppose.
Thanks to your video, I was able to assemble the LED's for this same light cube. My led's are square, so I have a different jig for them, which I like better, 'cause they don't turn around in the jig, which makes it easy to bend the leads, and solder. I also was pissed that they pre-soldered all the board components.My kit came with downloadable info, but it's all in Chinese, and only some of it is copy/ pastable to translate. Another disappointment. I was able to correct the mistake you made, of led facing direction, but I pulled them out to bend the common anode tails , and when I put the blocks back in, I put them in 90 degrees out. So I had to pull the whole assembly out from the pins, and reinsert them correctly. Only took a half hour to correct. After I powered up, the sound doesn't work, and I think that the sound chip might be bad, as one of the speaker leads, was making contact with the mounting post. Do you think that's possible? I'm kind of at a loss, as there's no manual, as to what the functions of the switches are. Can you help? My email address is Mahogany 36619@yahoo.com
Hm, did you move the slide switch around? I figured out that the slide switch changes the audio source from the built in MP3 player to the line input. If it's in the wrong place it won't play.
It doesn't work in either position, and I don't know what sw1,2,and 3 are for. I think 2,and 3 are vol down, and up respectively. K1-4 are programmed sequence patterns. Does the white double male stereo cable have to be plugged in, for the sound to work? I don't think that it does, for the built in audio from the board speaker. Do I need to install some software, or programs, or drivers? What about the photo sensor, U4?, does it need to be stood up, in order to receive? it's lying down on the board.
It should work with nothing plugged in. If you plug in a sound source though you should get output from the speaker. If not then there's a problem with the amp (not the MP3 player). The IR sensor works fine in any position, IR signals fill up a room. The only software I used was the one in the video which sends patterns directly to the device over USB. One of the switches puts it into the mode where that works.
Thanks, I'm gonna try going through the download files, to see if there might be something else to do. I'm also in the process of installing the pl 2303. What position is the slide switch supposed to be in, for the speaker to sound? towards the front or back? And what are the two positions? Still don't know what the sw1 selects between. I have a Taiwanese friend that can help translate some Chinese. Maybe that will clarify something.
Hi, I have the same board that hasn't been soldered, however the supplier didn't send the schematics or build instructions and I'm really stuck. The supplier is in China and just not communicating with me.
If the video at 1:17 isn't clear enough, I probably can't do any better. Text instructions: hold LED legs up, short one away from you at about 1:30 on the clock (so the two leads are at a 45 degree angle), bend the short lead straight to the right (3 o clock). Use a pair of longnose pliers to pinch the long wire right at the base to keep the bottom couple of mm of wire from bending, and bend that lead straight towards you (towards 6 o clock). Repeat 512 times.
please, can i help me?I need the software that I've seen on your youtube. I bought the same kit, but the software was written in Chinese. I'd appreciate if you can give me the link for downloading in English. thanks Paul
Hey greetings, one hobby I have bought a kit and have finished assembling it, I thought it was programmed in STC IC and apparently not and now I'm confused about what to do ☹️ and I think now I need software to program it please help me🙏🙏
I recently ordered this kit, I know this is an old video, but it has helped GREATLY. Mine came with ZERO instructions and I have a feeling I wouldn't be able to read them if they did. I have watched (most) of the videos on RUclips assembling these kits. It was very confusing because some people had the Anode going into the board and others the cathode. I plan on just following your build regardless. Thank you for taking the time to make this to help others like myself to build this. I really appreciate the tip about orientation. I seen one video where he installed all the led's pointing up, that seemed like a much better way, but there was not much instruction given for that.
Thank you for doing this video. I just finished putting mine together and it looks great. I would have been lost without this video. Thanks.
John, Thank You for the video/documentation !! I was able to assemble/wire the cube with minimual problems (three solder joint breaks.) Now I'll need to learn programming for the computer hook-up part. Thanks again !
Nice job, dear!! Thanks, this gave me confidence to buy it!!
Nice video. I just bought the kit and I'm ready to solder them together. Subscribed
Great video John. Do you perhaps have a good way of seperating pin headers?
Not really, just blade and pliers.
@@John_Ridley Cheers John! Back again with another question. Did your cube automatically connect to the 3d8 software? Or did you have to use stc-isp?
@@simonspure Sorry I honestly don't remember, I haven't powered up the cube in 2 or 3 years now. I don't recall doing anything special, just plugging it in and running the software but it's been a long time.
If I may offer a construction trick, solder the little 'connectors' to the ends of the LED array first. They are MUCH easier dropped into the holes on the PCB than trying to jam the LED leads into the little sockets on the connectors. Of course this means that the whole array needs to be soldered to the PCB permanently to keep the LED array from popping off the PCB. I built my second kit this way and save a lot of frustration. Hope this helps someone.
Hello Dave. I have the same board as above but it came with a bag of part and no instructions. There are lots of SMD resistors and capacitors and no idea where they go. Since you built this kit twice, I assume you have instructions, schematic and useful suggestions. would you mind sharing assembly material you have. Thank you in advance. my email is shodanone@gmail.com
Regards
What is the name of black colour board plz reply and what can purchase in online
Thanks for your video! It was very good. I am thinking to build one! :)
Best of 🍀!
Thank you John for your video, it help me a lot to build the cube. I have a question: "What is the name of the program you use to control the cube via PC?" I took a look into the zip file, mentioned in the other comments, but I didn't find it. Thnx.
I think it is "3d8s": github.com/tomazas/ledcube8x8x8
Hello, please, can you send me the photo of the back side of PCB board. I ordered unwelded one, but seller ddnt send to me instructions, where i should put capacitors and transistors...(( they have color designations, but i dnt know where they should be on PCB board
UPDT: Thx found your photos in comments 👍🏼
Hello John, what software is used to program and create our own standard? Thanks
Price ?
Where can I find yours part 1, how to build electronic board for this LED cube? Thank you.
Mine came assembled. Sorry?
I have found the schematic which i was able to assemble the board from
@@gazzaoftok Where did you find the schematic? please provide a link.
Email to send schematic vsproat@hotmail.com Thank you in advance
@@vsproat5853 files.banggood.com/2016/10/888-Light-Cube-Files.zip you can find a .pdf with the schematic in the zip archive. :)
Hi John I have purchased the same cube 8x8x8 I've fitted one 8x8x8 led matrix and it works OK but when I fit two it seems to short out. I have checked the LEDs and there's no shorts.
How are you fitting two 8x8x8 cubes?
@@John_Ridley yes but when I do it seems to short out the first row.
I have solderd the first 8x8x8 on the board with the wires attached and it flashies in sequence no problem. But as soon as I attach the second row it seems to go faulty with random flashing.
Where is your part 1. How to build electronic board? Thank you.
This comment is 2 years too late though what was mentioned at the start of the video was the board arrived assembled.
Hey greetings, one hobby I have bought a kit and have finished assembling it, I thought it was programmed in STC IC and apparently not and now I'm confused about what to do ☹️ and I think now I need software to program it please help me🙏🙏🙏
Thx a lot for that video.
Do you have any experiences with putting your own programm permanently to the controller?
Nope. No idea what development environment/compiler they used, and can't read Chinese anyway.
Hi John - great video! Careful what you ask for. I just got my kit and the main board was NOT assembled - it came with zero instruction (just a board and a bag of parts). The seller finally got me a parts list and a schematic. I am an advanced tech, but wish me luck anyway. I will consider your cage assembly advice of course (side vs. bottom, test as you go, USB dongle...). The seller also did not send the software. Can you provide a link or resource were I might find it? Thanks.
Hi blewfish, So glad I found your comment, I also have a kit with a bag of parts and no instructions. I have no idea what goes where re. small resistors and capacitors. Anyways would you mind sharing your schematic and part list along with any comments you may have. my email is shodanone@gmail.com
@@Soaringpython files.banggood.com/2016/10/888-Light-Cube-Files.zip
The parts list appears to match the device I have (ie. 4x220uF capacitors at C2, C6, C13、C18 / 8002B SO-8 Chip at U18 / 0.1uF (104) capacitor under the DIP at C7).
I searched for hours for the parts list. Now onto assembling the board with my soon to be SMD soldering skills.
hello do you have a solder circuit smd capacitors?
My kit came with the board entirely soldered up, I only had to put together the LEDs.
@@John_Ridley I see, thanks
@@John_Ridley You can take a photo of the board itself with the location of cmd?
@@ИванОхтенко-ж7ю Here are photos I took. Sorry the capacitors are pretty much just not labelled. ibb.co/album/cQBRMF
Je recherche la nomenclature pour assemblage des composants sur la platine merci
What this is PCB?
Hello. You seem like an expert, and I am not finding any more information googling it. I just finished building this exact kit. However, programming is a huge headache. Even more work than building the kit. When I plug it in, all the LEDS turn on and theres a very vague animation where most LEDs stay one and some turn off. I can't get anything else uploaded. I tried using STC-ISP but it has trouble recognizing .HEX files I feel like. I tried using 3D8 TF software but even though the COM port is connected, it doesn't control my cube at all. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
I think you may have assembled the kit with the anode and cathode of the LEDs switched, or the rows and columns switched. I got about 1/3 of the way through assembly, I was doing as-I-went testing, and with 3 or 4 planes in place I noticed the same as what you're noticing. I experimentally did something (sorry it's been over a year) - I think rotated one of the planes 90 degrees, and it started working properly.
What you're describing is exactly what I was seeing then. I'm sorry to bring you this news since it's a pain in the butt to fix it but that's probably what's needed. I wound up disassembling and reassembling, because the planes are rectangular rather than square so they didn't fit right just rotating them.
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try rotating them tonight. Hopefully its as simple as that
It worked! Was a pain to resolder everything but was worth it. Thanks again!! BTW, do you have the HEX file that you used in the video?
Thank You for the documentation !!
But i have a problem to connect PC with USB to Cube. How do connect or whatever Driver i need?
What OS are you using? It's a simple USB to TTL serial adapter. Mine uses the CH340 chip. With Windows 10, just plug it in and it'll find the driver. Windows 7 worked automatically for me as well. Others, look for CH340 driver. If you have some other chip such as FTDI in whatever they sent you, look for that. I doubt they're using the FTDI chip though.
I use Win10, the USB device is the USB TTL. But as soon as I insert the USB part, I get an error. Even if I install manuel the driver remains the error.
Tino Can't really help you then. I've plugged these into 3 or 4 different Windows 10 machines. They always just come up without problems.
I think I know where the problem lies. The chip is a 2303 HX. And this is not supported by Win 10. I will have to buy a new USB TTL. Thanks for the reply.
Great that you figured it out. Bummer you have to buy something new but at least it's cheap and easy. I recommend getting a board with the CH340 chip in it. Very well supported and cheap. And the manufacturer of that chip has never released a driver that broke other people's hardware.
Hi John. I have purchased the same kit but unlike yours the board is not already soldered and I have no instructions of where the components go.No instructions come with the kit. Do you know where i can get the instructions
Nope, sorry.
Thank you. I have found the schematic online
hi, could you send me the link. cannot find it.
I am interested to build one need the link to buy the kit
banggood.com and type the product code in the description into search.
What would be te product code
If only people learned to read the video description ...
IT'S IN THE DESCRIPTION.
RTFVD
what do you do, it more than one LED comes on in the testing? I have already replaced the LEDs, that comes on once, but it doesnt solve the problem. :S how should i fix this?
You mean when you're testing a single panel, you have more than one LED come on at once? That has to be a wiring fault, there's no way a bad LED could cause that to happen that I could think of. Either shorts or LEDs in reverse direction would be my guess.
John Ridley yes, it happens when testig a single plane. A have completed thw whole cube since then, but in the case of some leds, more than one light comes on. And they are not even neightbours. There must be some problem with very different resistance i suppose.
No, that makes no sense. LEDs don't exhibit issues like that. They are diodes.
Thanks to your video, I was able to assemble the LED's for this same light cube. My led's are square, so I have a different jig for them, which I like better, 'cause they don't turn around in the jig, which makes it easy to bend the leads, and solder. I also was pissed that they pre-soldered all the board components.My kit came with downloadable info, but it's all in Chinese, and only some of it is copy/ pastable to translate. Another disappointment. I was able to correct the mistake you made, of led facing direction, but I pulled them out to bend the common anode tails , and when I put the blocks back in, I put them in 90 degrees out. So I had to pull the whole assembly out from the pins, and reinsert them correctly. Only took a half hour to correct. After I powered up, the sound doesn't work, and I think that the sound chip might be bad, as one of the speaker leads, was making contact with the mounting post. Do you think that's possible? I'm kind of at a loss, as there's no manual, as to what the functions of the switches are. Can you help? My email address is Mahogany 36619@yahoo.com
Hm, did you move the slide switch around? I figured out that the slide switch changes the audio source from the built in MP3 player to the line input. If it's in the wrong place it won't play.
It doesn't work in either position, and I don't know what sw1,2,and 3 are for. I think 2,and 3 are vol down, and up respectively. K1-4 are programmed sequence patterns. Does the white double male stereo cable have to be plugged in, for the sound to work? I don't think that it does, for the built in audio from the board speaker. Do I need to install some software, or programs, or drivers? What about the photo sensor, U4?, does it need to be stood up, in order to receive? it's lying down on the board.
It should work with nothing plugged in. If you plug in a sound source though you should get output from the speaker. If not then there's a problem with the amp (not the MP3 player). The IR sensor works fine in any position, IR signals fill up a room.
The only software I used was the one in the video which sends patterns directly to the device over USB. One of the switches puts it into the mode where that works.
Thanks, I'm gonna try going through the download files, to see if there might be something else to do. I'm also in the process of installing the pl 2303. What position is the slide switch supposed to be in, for the speaker to sound? towards the front or back? And what are the two positions? Still don't know what the sw1 selects between. I have a Taiwanese friend that can help translate some Chinese. Maybe that will clarify something.
Hi, I have the same board that hasn't been soldered, however the supplier didn't send the schematics or build instructions and I'm really stuck. The supplier is in China and just not communicating with me.
I riceved circuit board and electronic parts, can you explain me how to soldering ?
laxman bandara watch the video. That's all the help I can give
laxman bandara wher can i buy the circuit board
Cant get the led bending right, can you explain more deeply? and maybe with some high resolution pictures?
If the video at 1:17 isn't clear enough, I probably can't do any better. Text instructions: hold LED legs up, short one away from you at about 1:30 on the clock (so the two leads are at a 45 degree angle), bend the short lead straight to the right (3 o clock).
Use a pair of longnose pliers to pinch the long wire right at the base to keep the bottom couple of mm of wire from bending, and bend that lead straight towards you (towards 6 o clock).
Repeat 512 times.
please, can i help me?I need the software that I've seen on your youtube. I bought the same kit, but the software was written in Chinese. I'd appreciate if you can give me the link for downloading in English. thanks Paul
where can i find the zip file with the software
pleas give me a link
On the order page at Banggood there is a link.
For the record files.banggood.com/2016/10/888-Light-Cube-Files.zip
one more like and sub 👍
What is the name of black colour board plz reply and what can purchase in online
As it says in the title of the video, BangGood, product code 1091209. Go to banggood.com, search for 1091209
Hey greetings, one hobby I have bought a kit and have finished assembling it, I thought it was programmed in STC IC and apparently not and now I'm confused about what to do ☹️ and I think now I need software to program it please help me🙏🙏