My XT1-LT50 enduro has a different hole pattern than what the Cub Cadet page shows. You have what they show. I bought a set at Lowes and got the wrong ones. I don't know if anyone else will run into this but mine have a hole shaped like Hitler's SS (except only one S) instead of the 6 point star.
What tips do you have for getting the bolts loose? I have a 2 year old 46” XT1 that I cannot get the bolts loose no matter what I do! I feel like I’m just stuck with the old blades.
According to google, says the following, I just copy / paste: After the blade is properly sharpened and balanced, re-install it making sure that the blade is oriented in the proper fashion. OEM blades are stamped with the part number and the word "Bottom" on the side that should face the ground. Most likely the blade also has a air fin or bend on each trailing edge. This air fin should point up towards the bottom of the mower deck and not down towards the ground. To tighten the bolt or nut use a torque wrench and tighten it to proper torque specification. Walk behind mower blades should be installed between 38 and 50 foot pounds of torque. Riding mower blades should be installed between 70 and 90 foot pounds of torque.
After the blade is properly sharpened and balanced, re-install it making sure that the blade is oriented in the proper fashion. OEM blades are stamped with the part number and the word "Bottom" on the side that should face the ground. Most likely the blade also has a air fin or bend on each trailing edge. This air fin should point up towards the bottom of the mower deck and not down towards the ground. To tighten the bolt or nut use a torque wrench and tighten it to proper torque specification. Walk behind mower blades should be installed between 38 and 50 foot pounds of torque. Riding mower blades should be installed between 70 and 90 foot pounds of torque.
amazing no one thought of making a matching hole on the spindle so you could drop any old pin down there and not have to use a block to hold the blade in place.. shm
Buy a new spindle just to replace a blade?? That’s ridiculous! A $15 breaker bar to loosen the bolts is a REAL solution. Buying spindles & blades every year instead of replacing the blades…what an absurd suggestion.
Drove my Cadet up on the car ramps. 15/16 socket on the impact driver. Spin off the nuts. Unwrapped new blades, mine are S shaped. Impact drive the new blades on. 10 minutes from start to finish.
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My XT1-LT50 enduro has a different hole pattern than what the Cub Cadet page shows. You have what they show. I bought a set at Lowes and got the wrong ones. I don't know if anyone else will run into this but mine have a hole shaped like Hitler's SS (except only one S) instead of the 6 point star.
Mine is the same as yours limits what and where you can get blades.
@@akbychoice I did find replacements at Home Depot.
Why remove the deck? Jack up the front crawl underneath change the blades in a fraction of the time.
Great way to end up in pretty bad shape. Besides, how do you take the pulley covers off to clean those out or clean & maintain the deck that way?
@@bestyoutubernonegraternumber1 A little common sense goes a long way. But I realize that not everyone is blessed with that.
@@rjd8434 Exactly. I would end up in the hospital trying it. I do not even have ramps.
A 2-blade setup maybe, but the middle blade on a 3-blade set up can be problematic.
@@raymondlee3414
Not if you use a Mo-Jack. In my opinion if you own a riding mower a mower jack is a must have.
What tips do you have for getting the bolts loose? I have a 2 year old 46” XT1 that I cannot get the bolts loose no matter what I do! I feel like I’m just stuck with the old blades.
Spray with WD 40 or an alternative, then use an impact wrench to loosen.
Stick a two foot long piece of old pipe on the handle of your ratchet. Pull as hard as you can. Bolts should crack free in no time.
Thanks
What torque when tightening?
According to google, says the following, I just copy / paste: After the blade is properly sharpened and balanced, re-install it making sure that the blade is oriented in the proper fashion.
OEM blades are stamped with the part number and the word "Bottom" on the side that should face the ground. Most likely the blade also has a air fin or bend on each trailing edge. This air fin should point up towards the bottom of the mower deck and not down towards the ground.
To tighten the bolt or nut use a torque wrench and tighten it to proper torque specification.
Walk behind mower blades should be installed between 38 and 50 foot pounds of torque.
Riding mower blades should be installed between 70 and 90 foot pounds of torque.
After the blade is properly sharpened and balanced, re-install it making sure that the blade is oriented in the proper fashion.
OEM blades are stamped with the part number and the word "Bottom" on the side that should face the ground. Most likely the blade also has a air fin or bend on each trailing edge. This air fin should point up towards the bottom of the mower deck and not down towards the ground.
To tighten the bolt or nut use a torque wrench and tighten it to proper torque specification.
Walk behind mower blades should be installed between 38 and 50 foot pounds of torque.
Riding mower blades should be installed between 70 and 90 foot pounds of torque.
amazing no one thought of making a matching hole on the spindle so you could drop any old pin down there and not have to use a block to hold the blade in place.. shm
that spindle does not turn with that little effort
haha totally. Just spent an hour or 2 with every tool I could find, including a breaker bar. I nearly gave up. Eventually it budged.
Reality, cut nut on spindle to avoid hernia, buy $ 120 spindle, install new spindle, install new blade,
Buy a new spindle just to replace a blade?? That’s ridiculous! A $15 breaker bar to loosen the bolts is a REAL solution. Buying spindles & blades every year instead of replacing the blades…what an absurd suggestion.
Drove my Cadet up on the car ramps. 15/16 socket on the impact driver. Spin off the nuts. Unwrapped new blades, mine are S shaped. Impact drive the new blades on. 10 minutes from start to finish.
removing the drive belt is NOT that easy - not even close
The owners manual is terrible. Hard to understand, and a couple steps that are unnecessary.