In high school in metal shop, we made a screwdriver with a aluminum handle. The aluminum was melted in a ladle then poured into a mold. In transit to the mold the ladle was bumped the molten aluminum hit the polished concrete floor and actually bounced into the shoe of one of the students.
So it no longer comes with the furnace cement to cover the wool. It used to come with that, looking at other videos. You really don't want to use the ceramic wool without something covering it. You can use a spray on rigidizer which will help it a lot, but usually it's topped with a skim coat furnace cement.
As long as you don't use a flux with an ingredient like Borax, that will evaporate and melt the Kaowool insulation, the insulation will probably last a while, but you are right, it will need some protection if you want it to last. From personal experience, about 100mm(4 in) of insulation works much better. When that furnace gets hot, the heat loss with the insulation supplied makes it inefficient
@@untermench3502 Durability is one thing, but ceramic wool sheds fibres like crazy and the large volumes of air will fill an area with airbourne fibres in no time. Those suckers are no good in your lungs. That's more the reason rigidizer is required.
Nope, apparently they don't include it anymore. I had the same question, and looked at the current description on Vevor's site, and it's no longer listed in the kit unfortunately. Unless they somehow used some other magic insulation that doesn't need it, but I doubt that's the case. I would buy some and apply it for sure, just from all that I saw and read about these things, but that's just me...
Jerry I have a machine shop... or what's left of it after my motorcycle wreck. What you will find is that working with cast aluminum is the tendency to gum up on your tooling... lathe tool, drills , mills , bandsaw..ect . 2 things that will help sometimes is try not to work it to yhe point that it heats the tool too much .. also parifin wax and WD40 are both your friend.. I buy WD40 by the gallon and use a squirt bottle from Lowes ... On the lathe you can keep it cooled when parting off . When using the bandsaw run it through a little parifin wax first and itnwill help it from gumming the blade , re-apply as needed... Drilling and milling, run up and down the tool when spinning.. WD40 isn't a good lubricant...in fact its not a lubricant....but it is a good cutting fluid.. I never drill steel without it. And because i watch my speed and use WD40 every time i drill , I have drill bits that are 25-27 years old ... Buy it by the gallon
You need to cover that insulation to prevent breathing the fibers. Couple of tips from a non-expert caster: heat the scrap to drive off as much moisture as you can before putting in. Pour as soon as you can, helps limit the hydrogen bubbles that weaken the castings. I tried pouring into cans to make turnable pieces but the shrinkage wasted a lot at the top. Lost foam casting gave the best /easiest results because I could have a pouring spout for the shrinkage to pour in. Sand casting also works well but sometimes I'd get sand imbedded and it was hard on tooling. An oil based sand is much nicer to use than water based. My local ready-mix plant sells bentonite so I don't have to pay the high shipping costs. Get junk automotive castings from repair shops. Better machining than the nearly pure aluminum in extrusions and cans.
Thanks sir, going to buy something like this so good to see your review. Regarding your arthritis, oregano oil is good for it. Mix 2 drops with a glass of warm milk and drink each morning and night.
As a retired gas engineer I find it rather dangerous to post a video for an LPG furnace without reading the instructions. YOU may find it intuitive but you're preaching to the great unwashed and that's reckless.😮
You need to cast your billets into a tapered container so it will fall out. Casting into a parallel sided container, being hot will expand the container, which will shrink on cooling making it a tight fit on the billet.
You have forgotten about the fact that the billet shrinks more than the container and will release all the time if the container has parallel sides and has smooth sides.
Take your lathe and machine the inside of your pipe smooth. take you a piece of one by six with your pipe in the lays pressure one by six up against it as it’s turning and make you a small landing to sit your pipe in that way it’ll seal the bottom off and your will not come out the bottom
That's exactly how my friend and I went about it 50 years ago in Idaho. I was stunned when our homemade ceramic crucible melted. Far from disappointing, it was fantastic! The whole goal was high temperature, and I think we achieved that.
I AM REALLY IMPRESSED WITH THIS VIDEO YOU DID AN OUTSTANDING JOB TO MAKE IT SO EASY TO UNDERSTAND AND I LOVE THAT. BECAUSE YOU MAKE THINGS REALLY SIMPLE I AM GOING TO SUBSCRIBE TO YOU CHANNEL . THANK YOU
Jon on Farmcraft101 received one of those foundry/ smelters. I notice that you didn’t apply refractory cement to the kawhol insulation. Did your box not come with any?
Thank you for this video, I enjoyed it as usual. I have no need for a smelting furnace, I wouldn't mind having one, but I did find and order a trolling motor for my boat. Thank you. Lots of good looking products on there.
Jerry, for your tongs idea: Right now, the tongs open on the same plane as the hinge, like scissors. Add a piece to each "blade" perpendicular to each "blade". Now the tongs will reach into and grab the crucible, with the handles parallel to the ground. Easy pour. 😁✌🖖 P.S.: You may want to do the same thing, to the handles, to get a more comfortable grip to pour.
Wow cool i been looking to buy one after seeing you putting it together and using it convinced me to get 1 and i ended up buying the competitions product cause it was cheaper
I have used hoses on trucks that you cut the length hose you want and the fittings screw on , so you likely can loosen it , check at your local IH TRUCK DEALER
Nice, I'd like one. Did not see a temperture indicator. Would be nice to have one for obvious reasons. In a pinch you can buy the temperture cones used by those that use ceramic making kilns. If you never seen them a quick google search should fill in the details.
Thank you so much for posting so many mistakes on RUclips. I have learned so much. Other people make it look easy because they leave out the parts where they made a mistakes.
You could pour your aluminum into soup cans and then just take a slicer wheel and cut the can off. Or if you have a way to taper you bore your pipe with a taper and then weld a bottom onto the small end. The taper should allow it come out.
Aluminum that you melt especially from cans and extrusions usually machines very pourly. Is does help to allow it to age maybe a few weeks before machining. You can speed up the aging by quenching the aluminum in water while its stills hot. Just make sure its not still molten when you quench it.
Thank you for this video. I'm considering to buy the exact same type of furnace like you have. It's relatively inexpensive and easy to get by where I live. It would be great to see you do a video on melting copper with it or even steel. Would it be possible to reach high enough temperature to make copper alloys? Can you double the temperature when connecting two gas bottles, one on each burner? And what happens when you would connect map gas instead of propane? If that's still not enough to melt steel maybe an addition of an extra valve + compressor could do the trick... But can the furnace withstand such high temperature? Best wishes from Belgium
You should drive it the other way because you can put the pipe in the device and let it sit on the bottom of the device smack it and if it loosen up that way, then turn it back around and you should be able to knock it out
Congratulations Jerry all you gotta do is make a pouring ring with a tee handle so you çan control the pour ( me and my cousin he'd to make lead fishing weights!) and guess what I reckon you may be able to do just that ... btw does Aluminum melt at the same temperature as Aluminium ? Two countries divided by a common language lol great video matey 😂👍
Try using any type of cast aluminum. Pistons, old wheels and such. Do be careful of the wheels as some are magnesium and will burn with vigor. Smother no water!
Might need to heat up the "mold" before pouring Jerry. I know when pouring lead, if the mold isn't hot first, the lead will "fog" and not make a good product, be it bullets, sinkers, etc.
You really didnt need to turn the hose when connecting. That nut is not supose to turn. You hold the hose and turn the pipes, before fitting the pipes to the furnace. Much easier and the nut wont come loose and leak gas or something
At the start of your second attempt I was a little concerned about your safety until I realized that you must have been fooling us with AI. Nice try. Speaking of AI. Here is yet another view on it. ruclips.net/video/-eAQOhDNLt4/видео.html
In high school in metal shop, we made a screwdriver with a aluminum handle. The aluminum was melted in a ladle then poured into a mold. In transit to the mold the ladle was bumped the molten aluminum hit the polished concrete floor and actually bounced into the shoe of one of the students.
What did he say?
@@bullswoodworks8398 "Ouch, there's molten aluminum in my shoe."
So it no longer comes with the furnace cement to cover the wool. It used to come with that, looking at other videos. You really don't want to use the ceramic wool without something covering it. You can use a spray on rigidizer which will help it a lot, but usually it's topped with a skim coat furnace cement.
As long as you don't use a flux with an ingredient like Borax, that will evaporate and melt the Kaowool insulation, the insulation will probably last a while, but you are right, it will need some protection if you want it to last. From personal experience, about 100mm(4 in) of insulation works much better. When that furnace gets hot, the heat loss with the insulation supplied makes it inefficient
thanks for that info I wondered if I should cover the inside but wasn't sure with what
Refractory cement is better than air dry mortar.
@@untermench3502 Durability is one thing, but ceramic wool sheds fibres like crazy and the large volumes of air will fill an area with airbourne fibres in no time. Those suckers are no good in your lungs. That's more the reason rigidizer is required.
Nope, apparently they don't include it anymore.
I had the same question, and looked at the current description on Vevor's site, and it's no longer listed in the kit unfortunately.
Unless they somehow used some other magic insulation that doesn't need it, but I doubt that's the case.
I would buy some and apply it for sure, just from all that I saw and read about these things, but that's just me...
Jerry I have a machine shop... or what's left of it after my motorcycle wreck.
What you will find is that working with cast aluminum is the tendency to gum up on your tooling... lathe tool, drills , mills , bandsaw..ect .
2 things that will help sometimes is try not to work it to yhe point that it heats the tool too much .. also parifin wax and WD40 are both your friend..
I buy WD40 by the gallon and use a squirt bottle from Lowes ...
On the lathe you can keep it cooled when parting off .
When using the bandsaw run it through a little parifin wax first and itnwill help it from gumming the blade , re-apply as needed... Drilling and milling, run up and down the tool when spinning..
WD40 isn't a good lubricant...in fact its not a lubricant....but it is a good cutting fluid..
I never drill steel without it. And because i watch my speed and use WD40 every time i drill , I have drill bits that are 25-27 years old ...
Buy it by the gallon
You need to cover that insulation to prevent breathing the fibers. Couple of tips from a non-expert caster: heat the scrap to drive off as much moisture as you can before putting in. Pour as soon as you can, helps limit the hydrogen bubbles that weaken the castings. I tried pouring into cans to make turnable pieces but the shrinkage wasted a lot at the top. Lost foam casting gave the best /easiest results because I could have a pouring spout for the shrinkage to pour in. Sand casting also works well but sometimes I'd get sand imbedded and it was hard on tooling. An oil based sand is much nicer to use than water based. My local ready-mix plant sells bentonite so I don't have to pay the high shipping costs. Get junk automotive castings from repair shops. Better machining than the nearly pure aluminum in extrusions and cans.
After all that he can get to tempering the crucible
Thanks sir, going to buy something like this so good to see your review. Regarding your arthritis, oregano oil is good for it. Mix 2 drops with a glass of warm milk and drink each morning and night.
As a retired gas engineer I find it rather dangerous to post a video for an LPG furnace without reading the instructions. YOU may find it intuitive but you're preaching to the great unwashed and that's reckless.😮
Tip the furnace on its side legs and use the long bricks as a floor under the flame.
Use an old muffin tin for your mould, tapered sides make for easier release
He who smelted it delted it.
Thank you for the upload. Your time and effort is appreciated.
You need to cast your billets into a tapered container so it will fall out. Casting into a parallel sided container, being hot will expand the container, which will shrink on cooling making it a tight fit on the billet.
You have forgotten about the fact that the billet shrinks more than the container and will release all the time if the container has parallel sides and has smooth sides.
Came out great, nice job Jerry 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Take your lathe and machine the inside of your pipe smooth. take you a piece of one by six with your pipe in the lays pressure one by six up against it as it’s turning and make you a small landing to sit your pipe in that way it’ll seal the bottom off and your will not come out the bottom
good video. In Latin America we do it with an old paint bucket, plaster, charcoal as fuel and a hair dryer.
That's exactly how my friend and I went about it 50 years ago in Idaho. I was stunned when our homemade ceramic crucible melted. Far from disappointing, it was fantastic! The whole goal was high temperature, and I think we achieved that.
I AM REALLY IMPRESSED WITH THIS VIDEO YOU DID AN OUTSTANDING JOB TO MAKE IT SO EASY TO UNDERSTAND AND I LOVE THAT. BECAUSE YOU MAKE THINGS REALLY SIMPLE I AM GOING TO SUBSCRIBE TO YOU CHANNEL . THANK YOU
I'm in Australia Jerry. I've got a few vevor tools , none of them are low quality .
Jon on Farmcraft101 received one of those foundry/ smelters. I notice that you didn’t apply refractory cement to the kawhol insulation. Did your box not come with any?
Fascinating process!
Thank you for this video, I enjoyed it as usual. I have no need for a smelting furnace, I wouldn't mind having one, but I did find and order a trolling motor for my boat. Thank you. Lots of good looking products on there.
Great job! Now what kinds of items do you plan to turn from the aluminum castings on your lathe??
Maybe the long brick is for when you lay the furnace on its side so you have a flat surface to set things on.
Yeah I said that on the screen
@@RosaStringWorksI have a way to use pipe as a mold..
Jerry, for your tongs idea:
Right now, the tongs open on the same plane as the hinge, like scissors.
Add a piece to each "blade" perpendicular to each "blade".
Now the tongs will reach into and grab the crucible, with the handles parallel to the ground.
Easy pour. 😁✌🖖
P.S.: You may want to do the same thing, to the handles, to get a more comfortable grip to pour.
Whoever crimped the fitting onto the end of the fuel line got the crimp and nut too close.
Nice looking furnace.
Looks like it's just not a swivel nut, but a single piece barb fitting instead.
Very cool. It would be nice if the crucible doesn't have a lip to help with pouring.
Wow cool i been looking to buy one after seeing you putting it together and using it convinced me to get 1 and i ended up buying the competitions product cause it was cheaper
I bought the competitions product cause it was cheaper and gave me more accessories
I bought the competitions product cause they were cheaper and offered more accessories
You should use a battery operated screw driver. Every little bit to save your hands from gripping so much.
Maybe you can use borax powder in the tube as a release agent. Just coat the inside of the tube with Borax powder.
I have used hoses on trucks that you cut the length hose you want and the fittings screw on , so you likely can loosen it , check at your local IH TRUCK DEALER
Nice, I'd like one.
Did not see a temperture indicator. Would be nice to have one for obvious reasons. In a pinch you can buy the temperture cones used by those that use ceramic making kilns. If you never seen them a quick google search should fill in the details.
Doesn't really seem necessary you just wait for it to melt and pour it
I wonder why folks assume you don’t research the things you do before you use these products. Smelt on!
Like the fact he never tempered the crucible
Mmmm
I use stainless Steel tubing which I have polished inside seams to work for me
Thank you so much for posting so many mistakes on RUclips. I have learned so much. Other people make it look easy because they leave out the parts where they made a mistakes.
nol eak of coñnector im amazed as its crimped on hose , lucky you didnt compromise the connection lol
You could pour your aluminum into soup cans and then just take a slicer wheel and cut the can off. Or if you have a way to taper you bore your pipe with a taper and then weld a bottom onto the small end. The taper should allow it come out.
Aluminum that you melt especially from cans and extrusions usually machines very pourly. Is does help to allow it to age maybe a few weeks before machining. You can speed up the aging by quenching the aluminum in water while its stills hot. Just make sure its not still molten when you quench it.
I think the inside of aluminum soft drink cans is lined with plastic.
Yes, there is a patented micro coating inside the cans. Somebody recently got caught trying to steal the formula from Coca Cola.
Aware of that
Very very good
Can you fry some smelt in that furnace?
I'm sure you thought of this, no moisture in the soda cans, moisture and melted aluminum will not go well.
Thank you for this video. I'm considering to buy the exact same type of furnace like you have. It's relatively inexpensive and easy to get by where I live. It would be great to see you do a video on melting copper with it or even steel. Would it be possible to reach high enough temperature to make copper alloys? Can you double the temperature when connecting two gas bottles, one on each burner? And what happens when you would connect map gas instead of propane? If that's still not enough to melt steel maybe an addition of an extra valve + compressor could do the trick... But can the furnace withstand such high temperature? Best wishes from Belgium
I think you should stick to mandolins Jerry! I enjoy watching your channel. And for the record I enjoyed watching this video!
Jerry, I have to ask. Is there a cast AL mandolin being made soon ?
You should drive it the other way because you can put the pipe in the device and let it sit on the bottom of the device smack it and if it loosen up that way, then turn it back around and you should be able to knock it out
Congratulations Jerry all you gotta do is make a pouring ring with a tee handle so you çan control the pour ( me and my cousin he'd to make lead fishing weights!) and guess what I reckon you may be able to do just that ... btw does Aluminum melt at the same temperature as Aluminium ? Two countries divided by a common language lol great video matey 😂👍
Melt point: No. Aluminum melts at 1,221 *F. Aluminium melts at 660.3 *C. 😁✌🖖
@@zapa1pnt so we are divided by temperature. also 😂🤣lol👍
"Everythings a Hammer" - had to laugh
Did Vevor say they might make a better handle for pouring?
Your best at working on guitars
You need to preheat the molds and add flux the molds before pouring
Try using any type of cast aluminum. Pistons, old wheels and such. Do be careful of the wheels as some are magnesium and will burn with vigor. Smother no water!
How much?
Petroleum is good for machining aluminium it prevents the gumming up
I’m sure you’ve figured it out, but you do need to use quite a bit of oil in the molds, and heat them prior to your pour.the mold
And after that maybe he can get around to tempering the crucible
It’s catching on the weld on the inside of the pipe is all
amiture! try figuring things out before filming!
Instant upvote because Batman.
What psi do you melt at?
Might need to heat up the "mold" before pouring Jerry. I know when pouring lead, if the mold isn't hot first, the lead will "fog" and not make a good product, be it bullets, sinkers, etc.
Use green sand moulding
John at Farmcraft got 1 too - but you probably already know that
Your crucible will last much longer if you "season" it. See YT for how to do it. Ridgidizer and refractory cement will help too.
How much does one cost ???
Is it really hard to click the link to the product in the description? $215.
Hot work in Hot summer.😅
Rad🤙🏻
Screw the t piece to the hose before fitting to furnace, and you forgot the cement coating. Otherwise good demo.
There is no cement in these inexpensive ovens
Spray with grafite
You could’ve just spin on the manifold on the hose
yeah, next time just spin the manifold onto the hose before you connect the manifold to the air pipes. thatll me a lot easier
Spen the manifold!
You really didnt need to turn the hose when connecting. That nut is not supose to turn. You hold the hose and turn the pipes, before fitting the pipes to the furnace. Much easier and the nut wont come loose and leak gas or something
You never tempered the crucible
Never really got hot enough or was long enough
Urdu translation
Flux
Hey, if you send me one of your mandolins for free I will happily do a You Tube video on it. You can thank me later..
Get a bigger hammer lol
At the start of your second attempt I was a little concerned about your safety until I realized that you must have been fooling us with AI. Nice try. Speaking of AI. Here is yet another view on it. ruclips.net/video/-eAQOhDNLt4/видео.html
"Melting", not "smelting". Look it up.
Tie that apron.
Read the notes on the screen
Stick to guitars. Smelting can be dangerous to the novice.
SAY ASSUMPTION ONE MORE GDAMN TIME. 🧨🔪🩸
How much does one cost?