Grazie maestro Davide, sempre il numero uno. Vedere questi video mette il buon umore, accresce la voglia di fare e fare bene, danno sicurezza e tranquillità, nel realizzare un violino non puoi inventare. Spero nel proseguimento di altri video tipo la tastiera, anima ecc. Grazie di cuore per condividere il suo artistico lavoro.
Finalmente li ho fatti!! Tastiera e anima completati, ho iniziato a pubblicare anche quelli del ponticello. Eccoli: ruclips.net/video/-8B2Oju-AiE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/NO8S8MjgisA/видео.html
dear Maestro, all your video are really amazing and useful for amateur as well axperienced luthier. Please, I try to find specific Wolf gouge but never found out. Could you tell me where I could find them. Thank you veyr much for that.
Wolf has been out of business for many years, but the brand is not important, only the steel quality which unfortunately goes hand in hand with the price of the gouges. All brands with decent steel are fine, if the steel quality is not very high the sharpening will last less and you will spend more time resharpening them, but they will do their job if you avoid the really cheap ones
@@DavideSora Thanks for your answer, but I was mainly talking abour specific sizes you use for the canal, I can't find these sizes. L14.5R11; L10.5R6; L10.5R10. They are really unfoundable and I think they are important to have the right curvature of the canal. Thanks
@@smailchalal8793 What matters is the actual radius of the gouge, the width is not important as long as it is wider than the channel it has to cut, and the #sweep number can change depending on the brand. Even the radius of the (violin) channel is not so rigorous. As long as it is similar, you can eventually vary the width of the channel to obtain the correct thickness with that gouge radius (tests on scraps). Sometimes it's better to adapt your work to the tools you have, rather than going crazy trying to find one that exactly matches the size of the tool you were given. Keep in mind that there will still be all the scraper work that, within certain limits, can fix things.
Well, I can't say much, as I sharpen the gouges freehand and therefore all depends on your ability to always keep the same angle when sliding on the stone, which with the curved surface of the gouges is not easy at all. You have to develop the feeling of contact of the cutting edge with the stone, holding the gouge blade with your fingers close to the cutting edge, with your left hand index finger (if you are right-handed) almost above the cutting edge, is a big help. A suggestion that I can give you is to make very few slides at a time, adjusting the angle with which you keep the gouge on the stone every time, and very frequently, to avoid rounding the cutting edge, that in the end must be uniformly shiny. When I resharpen a gouge or any other tool, I give just few passes on a 1200 grit waterstone to refresh the cutting edge (this stone leaves an opaque surface), then I sharpen with a 4000 grit waterstone going on until the cutting edge becomes shiny. I finish the work with few passes on a leather strop loaded with aluminium oxide paste. My stones are Japanese waterstone brand King, but any other good stone of corresponding grits is good for the job.
@@moneypenny174 With such an open-angle the penetration force for manual work would be excessive, the ideal would be to decrease the angle to improve the ease of penetration, but then the cutting edge becomes too delicate and the sharpening is ruined too quickly (the gouge does not hold sharpening). 25° is the best compromise I have found for the steel quality of my gouges and their ease of cutting and sharpening duration
@@DavideSora thanks for the suggestion. I will set up my sharpening equipment to 25. By the way, I have looked everywhere for the gouges mentioned in the video and they’re pretty impossible to find in the exact same widths and brands. The radii are easier to find though. I will probably settle for Pfeil though it’s not my first choice. I will also look to see if someone can custom make them.
I'm not sure if the translator translated your message correctly, but in fact the spruce is particularly problematic when going against the grain, you have to be extra careful Non sono sicuro che il traduttore abbia tradotto correttamente il tuo messaggio, ma in effetti l'abete è particolarmente problematico quando si va controvena, bisogna fare estrema attenzione
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Grazie maestro Davide, sempre il numero uno. Vedere questi video mette il buon umore, accresce la voglia di fare e fare bene, danno sicurezza e tranquillità, nel realizzare un violino non puoi inventare. Spero nel proseguimento di altri video tipo la tastiera, anima ecc. Grazie di cuore per condividere il suo artistico lavoro.
Finalmente li ho fatti!! Tastiera e anima completati, ho iniziato a pubblicare anche quelli del ponticello.
Eccoli:
ruclips.net/video/-8B2Oju-AiE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/NO8S8MjgisA/видео.html
Grazie maestro Davide, impeccabile come sempre. Ne ero più che sicuro, Grazie di cuore.
Beautiful work Davide! Thank you for sharing. North Carolina, US.
Thanks!
Complimenti maestro.
Ma quanta grazia e bellezza !!! grazie Maestro!!!!
Grazie!
@@DavideSora sto finendo il secondo violino grazie sempre ai Suoi video che non appena mi sorge un dubbio.... mi riguardo avidamente !!!!!
Hand craft at its best. Thank you for making the video.
Very nice and instructive work Davide! Thanks for sharing it! Best! E. S.
Um dos melhores luthier que já vi! Seus instrumentos são una verdadeira obra de arte e com sons maravilhoso.
Lezioni imperdibili!!!!
Beautiful work :)
Thanks for sharing
Parabéns mestre , trabalho feito com a alma.
Saluti maestro.
Grazie mille
dear Maestro, all your video are really amazing and useful for amateur as well axperienced luthier. Please, I try to find specific Wolf gouge but never found out. Could you tell me where I could find them. Thank you veyr much for that.
Wolf has been out of business for many years, but the brand is not important, only the steel quality which unfortunately goes hand in hand with the price of the gouges. All brands with decent steel are fine, if the steel quality is not very high the sharpening will last less and you will spend more time resharpening them, but they will do their job if you avoid the really cheap ones
@@DavideSora Thanks for your answer, but I was mainly talking abour specific sizes you use for the canal, I can't find these sizes. L14.5R11; L10.5R6; L10.5R10. They are really unfoundable and I think they are important to have the right curvature of the canal. Thanks
@@smailchalal8793 What matters is the actual radius of the gouge, the width is not important as long as it is wider than the channel it has to cut, and the #sweep number can change depending on the brand. Even the radius of the (violin) channel is not so rigorous. As long as it is similar, you can eventually vary the width of the channel to obtain the correct thickness with that gouge radius (tests on scraps). Sometimes it's better to adapt your work to the tools you have, rather than going crazy trying to find one that exactly matches the size of the tool you were given. Keep in mind that there will still be all the scraper work that, within certain limits, can fix things.
Thank you sir
Grazie Maestro!
Thanks!👑
Davide, what advice can you offer on gouge sharpening? I can never get my Tools as sharp as yours appear to be.
Well, I can't say much, as I sharpen the gouges freehand and therefore all depends on your ability to always keep the same angle when sliding on the stone, which with the curved surface of the gouges is not easy at all. You have to develop the feeling of contact of the cutting edge with the stone, holding the gouge blade with your fingers close to the cutting edge, with your left hand index finger (if you are right-handed) almost above the cutting edge, is a big help. A suggestion that I can give you is to make very few slides at a time, adjusting the angle with which you keep the gouge on the stone every time, and very frequently, to avoid rounding the cutting edge, that in the end must be uniformly shiny. When I resharpen a gouge or any other tool, I give just few passes on a 1200 grit waterstone to refresh the cutting edge (this stone leaves an opaque surface), then I sharpen with a 4000 grit waterstone going on until the cutting edge becomes shiny. I finish the work with few passes on a leather strop loaded with aluminium oxide paste. My stones are Japanese waterstone brand King, but any other good stone of corresponding grits is good for the job.
Please tell me what your preferred sharpening angle for these gouges is. Thank You
For gouges I use a bevel angle of more or less 25° on practically all of them
@@DavideSora thank you. I have been trying 27.5 but it’s not so fantastic.
@@moneypenny174 With such an open-angle the penetration force for manual work would be excessive, the ideal would be to decrease the angle to improve the ease of penetration, but then the cutting edge becomes too delicate and the sharpening is ruined too quickly (the gouge does not hold sharpening). 25° is the best compromise I have found for the steel quality of my gouges and their ease of cutting and sharpening duration
@@DavideSora thanks for the suggestion. I will set up my sharpening equipment to 25. By the way, I have looked everywhere for the gouges mentioned in the video and they’re pretty impossible to find in the exact same widths and brands. The radii are easier to find though. I will probably settle for Pfeil though it’s not my first choice. I will also look to see if someone can custom make them.
Мастер Хренов
Против шерсти начал резать и сколов наделал
Я бы к такому не обратился никогда
I'm not sure if the translator translated your message correctly, but in fact the spruce is particularly problematic when going against the grain, you have to be extra careful
Non sono sicuro che il traduttore abbia tradotto correttamente il tuo messaggio, ma in effetti l'abete è particolarmente problematico quando si va controvena, bisogna fare estrema attenzione
@user-tq9bo2kx2q а ты не хами, тут не принято хамить. А если можешь лучше сделать, то сделай и покажи, а то у самого канал пустой и смотреть нечего..
Grazie Maestro!