i had to chuckle. it's sounds like a miniature dragster engine with that lope. :-) it's neat to see that drive that 'generator' with so little effort too.
Nice little engine. I have a Coles casting Holt engine here so When these came up for sale I had to have one so I bought one for myself for Christmas. I ran it a couple of times and I had just added an extra linkage to the governor so I could vary the speed when it seized up. One piston grabbed and it locked up. I got a new piston, cylinder and Conrod sent to me so I stripped it down to rebuild it. When I pulled the block side covers off I noticed water had leaked from one of the cylinder jackets into the sump so that’s another problem I have to address. When I pulled the inlet and exhaust manifolds off and looked down the intake port toward the valve stem I could see some horrible burrs that have been left from the casting and machining process. I’m pretty sure that this was the cause of my engine seizing up, a burr was sucked into one of the cylinders.. It is a pretty easy check to see if any burrs are left in the intake ports and I would recommend pulling off your manifolds for a look. If I could share a photo I would show you what I found in mine… Mine spewed oil out the side covers when I had it running as well so they need a gasket as well. Also another problem I had…one time i was having trouble trying to get it to run, I had just topped up the tank with fuel then couldn’t get it to fire up again. I have had trouble with similar Chinese ignition modules in the past so the first thing I did was check the spark…still good…mucked around for another 10 minutes or so until I realised that the hall sensor was loose inside its housing. The sensor had slipped down about 5mm and was just hanging inside the housing. If it had have fallen out I might have saved some time but it was just hanging in enough for the magnets to still have an effect but the timing was way out. As soon as I shoved it back home it fired up. My bigger holt runs anti clockwise. I’m not sure why the Chinese made these engines run clockwise but it might have something to do with why the got the water pump and fan direction wrong. I’m thinking about fitting a belly tank under mine and tapping into the bottom of the radiator to hold a few extra mls of water. First I need to get it back together and get it running.
Hey Darren. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and observations. I've seen some of their products and fit and finish exterior appears about as good as one could expect, but am a bit surprised at assembly they didn't knock those burrs off. It's an attention to detail issue at assembly but makes a helluva big deal on engine longevity. The Fluorine rings, while workable are already somewhat questionanable as a choice, even though these are just models. Most concerning is the water jacket leak into the sump. I know on one of their straight 4s they were having crank breakage issues but believe they redesigned and addressed that. I would like to see what your thoughts are on a couple of things if possible, so i may reach out outside this comment section. Thank to you and the original poster.
Beautiful engine!! I want one for sure. The radiator fan may have been turning the correct way initially. I work on stationary power plants and all of them push air through the front of the radiator unlike a car fan. I don't know what is correct on this one though.
You and I both agree on the fan rotation, I don't think I run the engine fast enough to make much difference honestly. Thank you for your comment and your interest.
Agree totally. They blow as it is easier to exhaust the hot air away from the room. This is a big stationary and mobile used engine and at caterpillar speed it is no thing to blow thru the cooler.
That is funny, maybe our R&D helped them at the factory. I did tweak both the high speed and the low speed needles as well as the idle speed. I don't run mine allowing the governor to set the speed, I use a spring now to keep it at the idle speed. Congratulations on your new engine 👍
@Steam 212° indeed they used the community R&D , although it's not a proper fix but does the job. I got a spare set of belts from them just in case. I can see why you don't use the governer. I'm new to the governor system so trying to get my head around it. I notice the throttle usually sits in the middle and to keep it low idle I have to manually hold the throttle. I see and adjustable pushrod for the governor but maybe not long enough to bring the idle low. I quite like watching it move around the throttle though.
Great video. I have an H74 on the way for just a such a project. My generator is a little bigger but I think it will be fine even though it's just a twin. I'm glad you see someone do it so I could see if it was feasible.
Sure thing Joe. I'll need to remember what model the engine was that I took the starter off of to make it, but I will absolutely make an instructional video on making one. Thank you for your interest.
@@steam212 it’s all about OIL. I’ve bought 3 engines so far that use these rubber o rings and I tuned mine to rev past 8k rpm. Ran great off the original o ring for past 60 hours of run time. When people just run gas or zippo in, there is no lubricant to keep the o rings slick. When they starve for oil, the o rings wear away and loose compression.
@@Farmtractor I couldn't agree more. I find it funny that there is no mention about using mixed fuel in the "manual" which is so well written. I normally use an oil made by Klotz in my chainsaws and weed eater but thought I would give this premixed VP fuel a try since this has a small tank, I have no complaints about it. Thank you for your interest and comment.
@@steam212 no problem and thank you for making these videos. I wish to see more videos of this engine powering things, and to see the internals of this engine. I have an m12 on the way. I had a fuel line issue with my past one, so I just sent it back. But go figure I have like 20 extra piston rings and spare carburetors too. Over 70$ worth of spare parts. So I’d figure I’d use them. Thanks for your response. Please make more videos on this engine. Thanks a lot :)
@@Farmtractor You can NEVER have enough spare parts 😉. I've ran this one for about an hour and a half now and it seems to run better and better every tank it drinks. I let it cool to room temp between runs to help heat cycle it and break it in. Now it can sit for a few days and still be hand started by flipping the flywheel over. I've been asked to make a video on the generator that I used in this video so I will be building another one to help others make their own. When I do I will load test the engine and the generator. Thanks again
I love your engine how long did it take for you to get it through shipping. I really like the generator. So, if I'm correct if i buy one i will need to place a twist into the water pump o ring like you did so it will run correctly not backwards. I wonder why the manufacturer does that. Great little engine im happy for you, plus you taught us all something to know.
Hi Oceanchaser, I appreciate your questions and your comments. To answer your 1st question, I bought this one from a private seller in the U.S. on Ebay that had bought 2 (1 by mistake) so it was only a few days to get it through the postal service. Your 2nd question, I can not honestly answer but can assume that they have not changed the design. Thank you for your compliment, we're all in this together, if sharing is helping another person learn, we're all better off
3 thousandths on the intake and exhaust, but with the "slop" on the rocker shaft Im pretty sure it's closer to 5 or 6 when it comes down to it while running. Thank you for your question and your interest
I'm not sure that I fully understand what you're asking. To adjust the valve timing (all valves) you'll need to adjust the camshaft to crankshaft. To adjust the valve lash (clearance) loosen the lock nut and tighten or loosen the adjustment screw to allow for the proper clearance. I don't know that I'm helping you with your issue or not, but keep me posted, and I'll try to give you a hand 👍
I should have been a little more clear on that, I use SAE 30 weight conventional motor oil. It is a single viscosity unlike 10w-30 but it is a detergent oil. Thank you for your question and I hope this clears things up a bit.
Hi Billiondollardan, Thank you for subscribing. I am trying to add at least 2 videos a week. I am still green when it comes to the editing part, but we have some big projects coming up including a boiler refurbishment and a fairly large model steam engine with a functioning governor to run off of our boiler, that will most likely be a multi part series.
@@steam212 I'll be excited to see the upcoming videos! This is stuff that I don't have the skill set for, but I still find it fascinating. It's almost like I get to live vicariously through your work :)
@@allansame7256 I wouldn't think that it would be any problem at all to run these on white gas or Coleman fuel as long as a person mixed 2 stroke oil with it.
Hi Michael, I'm planning on making a video in a couple of days that should cover how to replace the piston ring and more. If you are subscribed and turn on the notification bell it should let you know. Thank you for your question and for your interest 👍
@@michaeldunner7891 I have ran over a quart of fuel through the one I have and it still spits black oily residue out of the exhaust. When you're running mixed fuel through any engine the oil lubricates the internals and passes out the exhaust. I would prefer to see these little engines smoke and spit a little oily residue, then I know that it is being lubricated 😉
Hi Michael, 24:1 might be a bit too much oil for the spark plugs to handle without fouling quickly, but I cannot honestly say for sure. I am running 40:1 in all the little gas engines that I have. Another viewer commented that he is using 50:1 and has had no issues. Thank you for your question and for watching.
Nice engine, why don't you simply run it in the right direction instead of reversing the rotation of fan and pump. The direction should be clockwise when looking at the front of the engine.
I agree with you that it should run the opposite direction, but this is how it is made. If I were to run it the other direction I would need to change the camshaft and the ignition firing order.
I certainly would. The 40:1 will only lubricate the cylinder. You still need to lube the bottom end (crankshaft, rods, camshaft, lifters, and provide some splash lube for the cylinders also). I hope this helps. Thank you for your question and your interest 👍
@@michaeldunner7891 Hi Michael, If you look on our channel there is a video of the first start on this engine. I think in that video I go over the amount and type of oil I used (sae 30 wt). If you have any questions please let me know, I'll do my best to answer them.
@@steam212 I just looked at your channel, it not there but that’s ok I learned a lot from you, I have some of that oil but I need to know should I fill to the top or just a few drop, you know like 5 or 10 drops something in that nature
They are only 12cc displacement engines. I would love to see the vehicle that would carry a person that was only powered by this little guy. 1 thing is for sure, it wouldn't be setting any land speed records 😆. Thank you for your interest and for commenting.
hi, after a while my little engine also couldn't start again, I found the hall sensor defective, replaced it with a "41F" bipolar hall sensor. i also found the carburetor almost useless. Very difficult to adjust. When adjusted for low speed , the engine just cutoff when throttle is moved to higher speed and vice versa. It is correct that the water pump has wrong direction, but I am not sure if the direction of the fan has to be changed as well. regards Bernd
Hi Bernd, have you moved the slotted screw in the center of the throttle linkage? That is what I moved for the low speed mixture (small adjustments make a huge difference) and the main jet is for above idle and wide open mixture. These carbs are touchy to say the least but can be tuned with a bit of patience and some time. MARK THE STARTING POINT before tweeking the screws. Clockwise is less fuel on both adjustments. Check your tappet clearance also, it helped mine.
@@steam212 thanks for your prompt reply. I adjusted as well the upper needle valve for the low speed and got now a limited speed range, Best result I received with a temporary installed surface carburetor to archive the necessary 1:14 mixture ratio. Tappet clearance set to approx. 0,2mm. Of course this is not an engine for continuous operation due to small amount of coolant, but its nice to see it running for a few minutes. I use coleman fuel with a few drops of 2 stroke engine oil, this gives you a nice smoking exhaust rgds Bernd
pretty cheap...shit...design if it's using viton o-rings to seal the pistons of a gasoline burning engine. The heat on them will ruin them in a flash if you ever put a real load on that thing. Couple of LEDs don't really count it's barely even having to try. Let's see what it can *really* do. Load it up until the governor's got it held WFO and it still can't hold revs.
@@steam212 Wouldn't be too hard to do with yours, just pop a couple of parallel'd 1157 bulbs across the output of your existing generator. Add more until the engine can't pull it anymore. Two LEDs take so little power to run that the engine doesn't even know they're there. Call me strange but I find model engines 250% more impressive when they're actually capable of doing practical things like powering an RC model of some sort. For this engine that'd probably be a cruise liner or cargo ship...Dumas sells a 1/96 Great Lakes Freighter that wouldn't be a bad option...or maybe a tractor, dozer, sommat. Wouldn't do in a plane or a fast moving buggy or something like that, and indeed the engine it's a model of is a tractor engine. I could also see using it as a tiny little bench grinder, but again, it'd have to make some useable power and not destroy itself if put under a real load.
@@TestECull I completely understand what you're saying about adding a load to the generator.. This is a model intended to appreciate a full size engine. If you were to own a full size engine like this would you intentionally work its guts out to the point of failure just to see what it's capable of? I have no plans to work this model to death. Thank you for your comment and your interest
@@steam212 I very much would, actually. I would use it as it was intended to be used. If I had an actual Holt 75 tractor you bet your bottom dollar I'd be workin' that thing hard. I'd take care of it, do maintenance and repairs as necessary, wouldn't let the rods come out the side of the block or let it just fall to pieces from neglect. But at the same time it's gonna do what it was built to do. It wouldn't ever see a parade or an antique equipment fair; it would have practical tasks to do. There's 75hp on that flatbelt pulley, there's 40-odd at the drawbar, it's got traction for days, I have some acreage that needs cleared, maintained...yeah it's got actual work to do. I half-jokingly say I'd probably be banned from Barrett Jackson or Mecum, but there's a non-zero chance that the jokes are right on the money, 'cause if I buy a car from one of those auctions *I'm buying a daily driver.* And that would likely rustle a few jimmies in the collector car community that think these things need to be treated like they'll just turn to dust if you so much as frown at them. Nah. They were built for the daily commute. I buy one...and I'm looking to do exactly that 'cause I'm sick and tired of modern plastic cars falling apart around me...it's gonna get 80 miles a day 5 days a week put on it rain or shine summer or winter.
@@TestECull what do you see when you see a painting on a wall? Some fancy paper that you can wipe your ass with, or something useless that you can look at for years to come? Not trying to say either way is right or wrong, but on a Toilet paper to painting spectrum, these engines are more of a painting :)
Cool, it sound really good now that you adjusted the valves
i had to chuckle. it's sounds like a miniature dragster engine with that lope. :-)
it's neat to see that drive that 'generator' with so little effort too.
Nice little engine. I have a Coles casting Holt engine here so When these came up for sale I had to have one so I bought one for myself for Christmas. I ran it a couple of times and I had just added an extra linkage to the governor so I could vary the speed when it seized up. One piston grabbed and it locked up. I got a new piston, cylinder and Conrod sent to me so I stripped it down to rebuild it. When I pulled the block side covers off I noticed water had leaked from one of the cylinder jackets into the sump so that’s another problem I have to address. When I pulled the inlet and exhaust manifolds off and looked down the intake port toward the valve stem I could see some horrible burrs that have been left from the casting and machining process. I’m pretty sure that this was the cause of my engine seizing up, a burr was sucked into one of the cylinders.. It is a pretty easy check to see if any burrs are left in the intake ports and I would recommend pulling off your manifolds for a look. If I could share a photo I would show you what I found in mine…
Mine spewed oil out the side covers when I had it running as well so they need a gasket as well.
Also another problem I had…one time i was having trouble trying to get it to run, I had just topped up the tank with fuel then couldn’t get it to fire up again. I have had trouble with similar Chinese ignition modules in the past so the first thing I did was check the spark…still good…mucked around for another 10 minutes or so until I realised that the hall sensor was loose inside its housing. The sensor had slipped down about 5mm and was just hanging inside the housing. If it had have fallen out I might have saved some time but it was just hanging in enough for the magnets to still have an effect but the timing was way out. As soon as I shoved it back home it fired up.
My bigger holt runs anti clockwise. I’m not sure why the Chinese made these engines run clockwise but it might have something to do with why the got the water pump and fan direction wrong.
I’m thinking about fitting a belly tank under mine and tapping into the bottom of the radiator to hold a few extra mls of water. First I need to get it back together and get it running.
Thank you for the heads-up. I will definitely look into it.
Hey Darren. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and observations. I've seen some of their products and fit and finish exterior appears about as good as one could expect, but am a bit surprised at assembly they didn't knock those burrs off. It's an attention to detail issue at assembly but makes a helluva big deal on engine longevity. The
Fluorine rings, while workable are already somewhat questionanable as a choice, even though these are just models. Most concerning is the water jacket leak into the sump. I know on one of their straight 4s they were having crank breakage issues but believe they redesigned and addressed that. I would like to see what your thoughts are on a couple of things if possible, so i may reach out outside this comment section. Thank to you and the original poster.
Beautiful engine!! I want one for sure. The radiator fan may have been turning the correct way initially. I work on stationary power plants and all of them push air through the front of the radiator unlike a car fan. I don't know what is correct on this one though.
You and I both agree on the fan rotation, I don't think I run the engine fast enough to make much difference honestly. Thank you for your comment and your interest.
Agree totally. They blow as it is easier to exhaust the hot air away from the room. This is a big stationary and mobile used engine and at caterpillar speed it is no thing to blow thru the cooler.
second vid I have watched today on this engine on your chanel (subed) and this engine performed very well after the adjustment and run in
Dude that was killer !👍
Bought one recently. They send it out with twisted belt. It is a great fun engine. Did you adjust Low Speed needle on this or only the main screw ?
That is funny, maybe our R&D helped them at the factory. I did tweak both the high speed and the low speed needles as well as the idle speed. I don't run mine allowing the governor to set the speed, I use a spring now to keep it at the idle speed. Congratulations on your new engine 👍
@Steam 212° indeed they used the community R&D , although it's not a proper fix but does the job. I got a spare set of belts from them just in case. I can see why you don't use the governer. I'm new to the governor system so trying to get my head around it. I notice the throttle usually sits in the middle and to keep it low idle I have to manually hold the throttle. I see and adjustable pushrod for the governor but maybe not long enough to bring the idle low. I quite like watching it move around the throttle though.
Great video. I have an H74 on the way for just a such a project. My generator is a little bigger but I think it will be fine even though it's just a twin. I'm glad you see someone do it so I could see if it was feasible.
Your generator looks brilliant! I would like to make one. Can you do a video of how you made yours?
Sure thing Joe. I'll need to remember what model the engine was that I took the starter off of to make it, but I will absolutely make an instructional video on making one. Thank you for your interest.
Engine looks and runs great. I would guess the rings are high temp viton and any similar sized rings of that material would be fine.
Hi John, I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I'm sure that you're right about the rings also. I hope it'll be a while before they need replacing though
@@steam212 it’s all about OIL. I’ve bought 3 engines so far that use these rubber o rings and I tuned mine to rev past 8k rpm. Ran great off the original o ring for past 60 hours of run time. When people just run gas or zippo in, there is no lubricant to keep the o rings slick. When they starve for oil, the o rings wear away and loose compression.
@@Farmtractor I couldn't agree more. I find it funny that there is no mention about using mixed fuel in the "manual" which is so well written. I normally use an oil made by Klotz in my chainsaws and weed eater but thought I would give this premixed VP fuel a try since this has a small tank, I have no complaints about it. Thank you for your interest and comment.
@@steam212 no problem and thank you for making these videos. I wish to see more videos of this engine powering things, and to see the internals of this engine. I have an m12 on the way. I had a fuel line issue with my past one, so I just sent it back. But go figure I have like 20 extra piston rings and spare carburetors too. Over 70$ worth of spare parts. So I’d figure I’d use them.
Thanks for your response. Please make more videos on this engine. Thanks a lot :)
@@Farmtractor You can NEVER have enough spare parts 😉. I've ran this one for about an hour and a half now and it seems to run better and better every tank it drinks. I let it cool to room temp between runs to help heat cycle it and break it in. Now it can sit for a few days and still be hand started by flipping the flywheel over. I've been asked to make a video on the generator that I used in this video so I will be building another one to help others make their own. When I do I will load test the engine and the generator. Thanks again
I love your engine how long did it take for you to get it through shipping. I really like the generator. So, if I'm correct if i buy one i will need to place a twist into the water pump o ring like you did so it will run correctly not backwards. I wonder why the manufacturer does that. Great little engine im happy for you, plus you taught us all something to know.
Hi Oceanchaser, I appreciate your questions and your comments. To answer your 1st question, I bought this one from a private seller in the U.S. on Ebay that had bought 2 (1 by mistake) so it was only a few days to get it through the postal service. Your 2nd question, I can not honestly answer but can assume that they have not changed the design. Thank you for your compliment, we're all in this together, if sharing is helping another person learn, we're all better off
very nice engine, what did you set the lash too?
3 thousandths on the intake and exhaust, but with the "slop" on the rocker shaft Im pretty sure it's closer to 5 or 6 when it comes down to it while running. Thank you for your question and your interest
would you please show how to adjust the timing valves for this little engine ,Thanks a lot.
I'm not sure that I fully understand what you're asking. To adjust the valve timing (all valves) you'll need to adjust the camshaft to crankshaft. To adjust the valve lash (clearance) loosen the lock nut and tighten or loosen the adjustment screw to allow for the proper clearance. I don't know that I'm helping you with your issue or not, but keep me posted, and I'll try to give you a hand 👍
That’s just neat.
So you just use non detergent 30# motor oil? Thanks
I should have been a little more clear on that, I use SAE 30 weight conventional motor oil. It is a single viscosity unlike 10w-30 but it is a detergent oil. Thank you for your question and I hope this clears things up a bit.
@@steam212 Thank you very much for the info
I like your videos, Steam. I subscribed in case you do more
Hi Billiondollardan, Thank you for subscribing. I am trying to add at least 2 videos a week. I am still green when it comes to the editing part, but we have some big projects coming up including a boiler refurbishment and a fairly large model steam engine with a functioning governor to run off of our boiler, that will most likely be a multi part series.
@@steam212 I'll be excited to see the upcoming videos! This is stuff that I don't have the skill set for, but I still find it fascinating. It's almost like I get to live vicariously through your work :)
@@billiondollardan All you need to remember is "a man made this, a man can fix it". NEVER sell yourself short.
Do you know how much oil goes in the crankcase of an H74 engine and what weight
Also is synthetic OK thank you very much
Thank you. No hurries, no worries.
You're welcome!
Can you run white gas in these engines with 2 stroke oil
I would appreciate the help thank you
@@allansame7256 I wouldn't think that it would be any problem at all to run these on white gas or Coleman fuel as long as a person mixed 2 stroke oil with it.
@@allansame7256 I will give it a shot on our next video, where we disassemble, evaluate, and replace the main bearings on the model 12B engine.
I received mine today but I note that the fan is rubbing inside the cowl. I tried adjusting the radiator but no luck. Can I grind the ends of blades?
I wouldn't think that anything should need to be ground down to fit. Are you fully out of room to adjust everything?
@@steam212 Yes. Tried everything...
@@Shimba58 Without seeing it I don't know how much I can help you. Is it rubbing the whole way around or just in one area?
Is it hard to change an oil ring out? I have it running, but in the future if I have to change one I’ll be ready, can you tell me how to please
Hi Michael, I'm planning on making a video in a couple of days that should cover how to replace the piston ring and more. If you are subscribed and turn on the notification bell it should let you know. Thank you for your question and for your interest 👍
@@steam212 thanks , that will be a big help for me, is it normal when the first full tank is run, a little bit of black oil out the exhaust?
@@michaeldunner7891 I have ran over a quart of fuel through the one I have and it still spits black oily residue out of the exhaust. When you're running mixed fuel through any engine the oil lubricates the internals and passes out the exhaust. I would prefer to see these little engines smoke and spit a little oily residue, then I know that it is being lubricated 😉
@@steam212 ok thanks, that’s good news
Is it alright to run Vp power mix 24:1 run that type of engine?
Hi Michael, 24:1 might be a bit too much oil for the spark plugs to handle without fouling quickly, but I cannot honestly say for sure. I am running 40:1 in all the little gas engines that I have. Another viewer commented that he is using 50:1 and has had no issues. Thank you for your question and for watching.
@@steam212 ok my friend I’ll get some 40:1 ,,,, thanks
Nice engine, why don't you simply run it in the right direction instead of reversing the rotation of fan and pump. The direction should be clockwise when looking at the front of the engine.
I agree with you that it should run the opposite direction, but this is how it is made. If I were to run it the other direction I would need to change the camshaft and the ignition firing order.
Can you tell me do I still need to add oil in my oil stump oil when using 40:1 premix?
I certainly would. The 40:1 will only lubricate the cylinder. You still need to lube the bottom end (crankshaft, rods, camshaft, lifters, and provide some splash lube for the cylinders also). I hope this helps. Thank you for your question and your interest 👍
@@steam212 yes it helps a lot, tell me my friend, how much oil use to fill from the top of the cap and what type of oil to use?
@@michaeldunner7891 Hi Michael, If you look on our channel there is a video of the first start on this engine. I think in that video I go over the amount and type of oil I used (sae 30 wt). If you have any questions please let me know, I'll do my best to answer them.
@@steam212 wow that’s what the doctor ordered!!!!!! Thanks I will
@@steam212 I just looked at your channel, it not there but that’s ok I learned a lot from you, I have some of that oil but I need to know should I fill to the top or just a few drop, you know like 5 or 10 drops something in that nature
How much cc is this engine? Cause for a moped here the max is 50cc. So I would definitely try to build like a little cart around it. 😁
They are only 12cc displacement engines. I would love to see the vehicle that would carry a person that was only powered by this little guy. 1 thing is for sure, it wouldn't be setting any land speed records 😆. Thank you for your interest and for commenting.
Music 🎶
hi, after a while my little engine also couldn't start again, I found the hall sensor defective, replaced it with a "41F" bipolar hall sensor. i also found the carburetor almost useless. Very difficult to adjust. When adjusted for low speed , the engine just cutoff when throttle is moved to higher speed and vice versa.
It is correct that the water pump has wrong direction, but I am not sure if the direction of the fan has to be changed as well.
regards Bernd
Hi Bernd, have you moved the slotted screw in the center of the throttle linkage? That is what I moved for the low speed mixture (small adjustments make a huge difference) and the main jet is for above idle and wide open mixture. These carbs are touchy to say the least but can be tuned with a bit of patience and some time. MARK THE STARTING POINT before tweeking the screws. Clockwise is less fuel on both adjustments. Check your tappet clearance also, it helped mine.
@@steam212 thanks for your prompt reply. I adjusted as well the upper needle valve for the low speed and got now a limited speed range, Best result I received with a temporary installed surface carburetor to archive the necessary 1:14 mixture ratio. Tappet clearance set to approx. 0,2mm.
Of course this is not an engine for continuous operation due to small amount of coolant, but its nice to see it running for a few minutes. I use coleman fuel with a few drops of 2 stroke engine oil, this gives you a nice smoking exhaust
rgds Bernd
pretty cheap...shit...design if it's using viton o-rings to seal the pistons of a gasoline burning engine. The heat on them will ruin them in a flash if you ever put a real load on that thing. Couple of LEDs don't really count it's barely even having to try.
Let's see what it can *really* do. Load it up until the governor's got it held WFO and it still can't hold revs.
That sounds like an interesting test, let me know when you upload it, I'll be sure to watch.
@@steam212 Wouldn't be too hard to do with yours, just pop a couple of parallel'd 1157 bulbs across the output of your existing generator. Add more until the engine can't pull it anymore. Two LEDs take so little power to run that the engine doesn't even know they're there.
Call me strange but I find model engines 250% more impressive when they're actually capable of doing practical things like powering an RC model of some sort. For this engine that'd probably be a cruise liner or cargo ship...Dumas sells a 1/96 Great Lakes Freighter that wouldn't be a bad option...or maybe a tractor, dozer, sommat. Wouldn't do in a plane or a fast moving buggy or something like that, and indeed the engine it's a model of is a tractor engine.
I could also see using it as a tiny little bench grinder, but again, it'd have to make some useable power and not destroy itself if put under a real load.
@@TestECull I completely understand what you're saying about adding a load to the generator.. This is a model intended to appreciate a full size engine. If you were to own a full size engine like this would you intentionally work its guts out to the point of failure just to see what it's capable of? I have no plans to work this model to death. Thank you for your comment and your interest
@@steam212 I very much would, actually. I would use it as it was intended to be used. If I had an actual Holt 75 tractor you bet your bottom dollar I'd be workin' that thing hard. I'd take care of it, do maintenance and repairs as necessary, wouldn't let the rods come out the side of the block or let it just fall to pieces from neglect. But at the same time it's gonna do what it was built to do. It wouldn't ever see a parade or an antique equipment fair; it would have practical tasks to do. There's 75hp on that flatbelt pulley, there's 40-odd at the drawbar, it's got traction for days, I have some acreage that needs cleared, maintained...yeah it's got actual work to do.
I half-jokingly say I'd probably be banned from Barrett Jackson or Mecum, but there's a non-zero chance that the jokes are right on the money, 'cause if I buy a car from one of those auctions *I'm buying a daily driver.* And that would likely rustle a few jimmies in the collector car community that think these things need to be treated like they'll just turn to dust if you so much as frown at them. Nah. They were built for the daily commute. I buy one...and I'm looking to do exactly that 'cause I'm sick and tired of modern plastic cars falling apart around me...it's gonna get 80 miles a day 5 days a week put on it rain or shine summer or winter.
@@TestECull what do you see when you see a painting on a wall? Some fancy paper that you can wipe your ass with, or something useless that you can look at for years to come? Not trying to say either way is right or wrong, but on a Toilet paper to painting spectrum, these engines are more of a painting :)