My dad had a 78 Nova when I was a kid and I remember he had to do a serious valve job and replace some but couldn't afford to lose work so I was his flash light holder all night. I hated it at the time cause he would get frustrated but now I would give anything to go back to that time.
Those always seem to turn into the memories you cherish. One of my first car was an early 50s chevy and I lost count of the number of times I broke down on the side of the road and ended up having to call my dad for help. It was usually a harrowing experience to experience in the heat of the moment, and since this was largely before cell phones I carried a lot of tools and extra parts with me in case of such an event. Hiking to the nearest phone to call dad for help was always a last resort. Stuff like resetting point gap on the side of a country road with an old dim flashlight freezing your ass off was never fun, but sure makes for great memories you never forget.
Open the throttle. Close the choke. It won't close unless you open the throttle first. That's why you pump the pedal once before starting a cold engine. You can't do this one handed.
Bored some headers 650 carb will wake it up some.. well I like to get me a nova with the sixer in it and try beefing up one for my self.. A 62-63 nova was my dream ride when I was a younger man.. like this video. Thanks for sharing.. motor sound Good too
I dont understand why you didnt oil your rockers before starting your motor that can cause a lot of damage..i hope you didnt harm it...it also seems ypur not getting much oil up top ..best of luck to you love those sixes myself
I think the assembly lube did it's job. I thought it took an unusual amount of time for the oil to come up too, but it did eventually and it's been fine since.
Did you end up getting rid of this car? I am working on an almost identical car (blue interior convertible) and fighting with the auto choke and getting things timed in
I follow a checklist on first starts, and I've done over 40 of them. Oil first/Fuel second/Timing third/cooling fourth because that's the order in which each one will become critical once the engine starts. PRIME the engine until each and every lifter is pushing oil through the pushrod, this ensures everything is happy on startup. No fancy tools required, an old screwdriver on a drill...just get the oil up to the top (or put some there on your own). An old distributor with the cam gear removed is absolutely the best way. Disconnecting the oil light/gage and remotely locating an oil pressure gage temporarily so you can watch it on startup is critical to the longevity of the engine. Scorch the bearings, gall a lifter bore, break a rocker arm, bend a pushrod..etc...due to insufficient oil on startup and everything you've worked towards is now questionable for longevity at best. The distributor shaft can shear on startup, still run the engine, and provide no oil pressure. On newer engines where the oil pump is directly driven from the crank, not as critical...but they can still shear a key. Carb bowl FULL of fuel, even over full is better than fuel starvation. Fill the bowl through the vent with a dropper if you have too, but don't wait until the pump 'might' pull fuel from the tank, fill the lines AND give the bowl enough fuel to run. EVERY hole on the carb and manifold plugged (even the PVC), they can all be hooked up later. This ensures any component hooked up doesn't cause a vacuum leak and poor signal to the carburetor. Timing. This confounds some people, but I'll try and make it simple. This doesn't apply to any fancy electronically controlled distributor that needs to be phased to the computer, I'm talking a pre-1992-ish engine that uses no computer for timing. You don't need a fancy TDC checking method, use the timing mark on the balancer as TDC, that's close enough for an engine startup as long as the mark corresponds with the COMPRESSION stroke on #1 cylinder. Finger over hole on #1, turn it over with a socket with no plugs in it, feel the pressure, turn timing mark to 0 - check to make sure rotor is close or on #1 on the cap. If not, pull it out and make it so. Leave it in even if it doesn't drop into the oil pump drive. Go two more rounds (distributor should drop in the oil pump drive on it's own) back to 0 and check it again until it's right. Advance the cap at least 4 degrees-ish of rotation counter to the rotation of the rotor. Lock it down so you can turn it hard with your hands, but won't rotate while the engine is running, you don't want it walking around. Any engine will start up with 8 degrees of advance - not run great, but start and run until it can be verified with a timing light for sure. I think you were close enough though, it hit pretty quickly. If you are breaking in a cam you HAVE to have the cooling system connected, running and full. It doesn't take long for a brand new engine to heat up. Running it for a few seconds won't do damage to any components, but only a few seconds (10 maybe). The water pump, head gaskets (steel) and valves need someplace to disperse their heat on first startup. It's also super easy to warp a head with no coolant. I don't think you went too far, but you were mighty close. I sincerely hope this engine made it through the break-in process and all components were happy when all was said and done. I just wanted to identify all the places I've went wrong in the past and help with some suggestions. Happy motoring.
By far one of my favorite pastimes, but no- just cleaned up with new gaskets and a rebuilt cylinder head for hardened valve seats. Bottom end was untouched mechanically.
I'm honestly a little surprised you went with a 194. You cant seem to give those motors away. They aren't bad my any means but 200hp is about the best you'll make with one of those without mortgaging your house.
You are absolutely right. I had a 65 Nova with a 194. Yanked it out in favor of a small block and ended up giving the 194 away along with the 3 speed saginaw. The guy was happy to get it, so I guess some still like it.
got that exact engine in my 1963 Chevy II. Got an oil flooded plug causing misfires. What is the seal I should change ? is it a little o ring somewhere?
Depends on how bad it is. There are o rings on the valve stems beneath the spring keepers, but if your plug is loaded with oil then you're likely to have other wear and oil consumption issues happening there.
alrighty! I would not say loaded but definitely wet. when i change said plug the engine will run smooth but burn oil for about 15 minutes before that plug wont fire anynore I suppose. causing the slight shaking i've always had. I guess I should change the ring on the intaka valve for that cilynder then? If the plug stays clean afterward good, orherwise I will need to have the engine checked I guess.
Well, I changed the plus again to put back some copper plugs (Double platinums were making it run like a harley davidson) and magically no oil on the plug! But my engine still run kinda rough and only has a vacuum of 10!
Sure, the first thing I'll check on a car that's been sitting a while is to see if the engine is free, and if you haven't tried turning it over yet with a fresh battery, then reach in and try to turn the bottom damper/front pulley by hand. It will be a bit stiff but manageable. If the engine is free it's going to save a lot of work. The next step is involves removing the spark plugs and checking their condition. Do they look oily/greasy, or sooty? Dark soot or white soot? Expect to replace these anyway which will put you out for less than $10. While the plugs are out, I recommend applying a touch of upper cylinder lubricant, now, if the engine is stuck, make a mixture of 50% automatic transmission fluid to 50% Acetone. This will help break free any surface rust that has gotten the piston rings sticking to the cylinder wall after sitting for a couple of days, generally. If the engine turns over by hand, apply a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil to the cylinder. Just enough to cover the top of the piston, which is generally much less than an ounce. The ignition contact points in the distributor are going to be oxidized and run you around trying to figure out why the engine won't fire. *Assuming* they were adjusted properly when the car was parked, then all that's needed usually is a brisk swipe of a very mild abrasive between the contacts. Match striker is perfect, 600 grit or higher sandpaper... don't use emery cloth or a file. Last but not least you can count on the fuel system on a car sitting that long to be completely shot. With any good luck, the fuel tank is not rusted out, and if it was parked with fuel in the tank you can count on replacing it. Fuel will cause condensation inside the upper part of the tank & sending unit within only the first couple of years. If there's no fuel in it, you've got a chance, but the tank should still be removed and flushed out and it's condition determined. A quick solution just to try and get the motor to run: rig up a gravity feed "Fuel IV" you can hang underneath the open hood to supply the carburetor (which, also, will probably need to be rebuilt but you'll still be able to see if the engine will fire if it has problems.) This way you won't have to depend on any fuel pumps and at very least the engine will run on what fuel reaches and is contained in the carburetor fuel bowl. Alternately, if you have a spare electric fuel pump on hand, connect it using some fuel line directly to the carb and into a gas can to bypass the (bad) engine driven fuel pump, tank, and lines. And be sure there's oil in the pan, too! Whatever's in there is fine just for a preliminary check, but will definitely need to be changed.
Justin Rubsam Thank you Justin! I'm just 19 and don't know a whole heck of a lot about restoring engines or cars in general, but this certainly sets me in the right direction.
I just started my 1967 nova 194 after sitting in garage for 20 years. Better get new points, plugs, cap and carb. My points were stuck shut. Get new gas tank...mine had gas and turned to black mush. Blow fuel line out with compressor. Now it runs like 1967 again.
Have you ever heard of priming the oil pump of the engine with a drill while rotating the engine by hand and filling the carb bowl before attempting to start the engine so it has oil every where and starts relatively quickly? That IS NOT the best way to do a first start and just because it "seems" fine it is very likely to have a cam and or lifter failure with in 5-10k miles. ruclips.net/video/3Ekej01Oew8/видео.html
It so funny I'm here yelling at him to close the choke but he's not hearing me .. CLOSE THE CHOKE PLATE leave the key on and use your cranking switch outside ..Hey Car guy close the choke fully ..I'm really surprised you missed that massive vacuum leak at the Manifold bud it's these intellectual types that never seem to get even the simplest of things done because they are so busy throwing all that terminology at everything as they re event the wheel .. My lord dude really
I noted the wide open choke, too, and saw the bowl vent tube through which he could have filled the bowl, making starting happen with much less cranking. As I remarked in another video's comments, I wonder what they think the choke is for.
My dad had a 78 Nova when I was a kid and I remember he had to do a serious valve job and replace some but couldn't afford to lose work so I was his flash light holder all night. I hated it at the time cause he would get frustrated but now I would give anything to go back to that time.
Those always seem to turn into the memories you cherish. One of my first car was an early 50s chevy and I lost count of the number of times I broke down on the side of the road and ended up having to call my dad for help. It was usually a harrowing experience to experience in the heat of the moment, and since this was largely before cell phones I carried a lot of tools and extra parts with me in case of such an event. Hiking to the nearest phone to call dad for help was always a last resort. Stuff like resetting point gap on the side of a country road with an old dim flashlight freezing your ass off was never fun, but sure makes for great memories you never forget.
That water pump took a beating, since there was no coolant to lube the bearings and seals.
now that was a dry run,no prelube.
Open the throttle. Close the choke. It won't close unless you open the throttle first. That's why you pump the pedal once before starting a cold engine. You can't do this one handed.
I noticed that too...
So much fun to watch this! About to try and rebuild mine in a 62 Chevy II.
How’d it go
Bored some headers 650 carb will wake it up some.. well I like to get me a nova with the sixer in it and try beefing up one for my self.. A 62-63 nova was my dream ride when I was a younger man.. like this video.
Thanks for sharing.. motor sound Good too
You gotta use the choke when starting cold.
There's a huge vacuum leak below the carb...hose fitting.
I dont understand why you didnt oil your rockers before starting your motor that can cause a lot of damage..i hope you didnt harm it...it also seems ypur not getting much oil up top ..best of luck to you love those sixes myself
I think the assembly lube did it's job. I thought it took an unusual amount of time for the oil to come up too, but it did eventually and it's been fine since.
That motor is not getting enough oil to the top end. Oil should be shooting out the oil hole in rocker
Oil the rockers! O did you put oil in it? Prime it to start!
Looks pretty hope mine looks as good as yours ..tks
I oil up my rockers on my '69 250 C-10. Spray gas in the carb! GEEZ,
Should be slinging oil out of the pushrods into the rockers. I saw one rocker getting a very small amount in the middle.
Did you end up getting rid of this car? I am working on an almost identical car (blue interior convertible) and fighting with the auto choke and getting things timed in
I follow a checklist on first starts, and I've done over 40 of them. Oil first/Fuel second/Timing third/cooling fourth because that's the order in which each one will become critical once the engine starts.
PRIME the engine until each and every lifter is pushing oil through the pushrod, this ensures everything is happy on startup. No fancy tools required, an old screwdriver on a drill...just get the oil up to the top (or put some there on your own). An old distributor with the cam gear removed is absolutely the best way. Disconnecting the oil light/gage and remotely locating an oil pressure gage temporarily so you can watch it on startup is critical to the longevity of the engine. Scorch the bearings, gall a lifter bore, break a rocker arm, bend a pushrod..etc...due to insufficient oil on startup and everything you've worked towards is now questionable for longevity at best. The distributor shaft can shear on startup, still run the engine, and provide no oil pressure. On newer engines where the oil pump is directly driven from the crank, not as critical...but they can still shear a key.
Carb bowl FULL of fuel, even over full is better than fuel starvation. Fill the bowl through the vent with a dropper if you have too, but don't wait until the pump 'might' pull fuel from the tank, fill the lines AND give the bowl enough fuel to run. EVERY hole on the carb and manifold plugged (even the PVC), they can all be hooked up later. This ensures any component hooked up doesn't cause a vacuum leak and poor signal to the carburetor.
Timing. This confounds some people, but I'll try and make it simple. This doesn't apply to any fancy electronically controlled distributor that needs to be phased to the computer, I'm talking a pre-1992-ish engine that uses no computer for timing. You don't need a fancy TDC checking method, use the timing mark on the balancer as TDC, that's close enough for an engine startup as long as the mark corresponds with the COMPRESSION stroke on #1 cylinder. Finger over hole on #1, turn it over with a socket with no plugs in it, feel the pressure, turn timing mark to 0 - check to make sure rotor is close or on #1 on the cap. If not, pull it out and make it so. Leave it in even if it doesn't drop into the oil pump drive. Go two more rounds (distributor should drop in the oil pump drive on it's own) back to 0 and check it again until it's right. Advance the cap at least 4 degrees-ish of rotation counter to the rotation of the rotor. Lock it down so you can turn it hard with your hands, but won't rotate while the engine is running, you don't want it walking around. Any engine will start up with 8 degrees of advance - not run great, but start and run until it can be verified with a timing light for sure. I think you were close enough though, it hit pretty quickly.
If you are breaking in a cam you HAVE to have the cooling system connected, running and full. It doesn't take long for a brand new engine to heat up. Running it for a few seconds won't do damage to any components, but only a few seconds (10 maybe). The water pump, head gaskets (steel) and valves need someplace to disperse their heat on first startup. It's also super easy to warp a head with no coolant. I don't think you went too far, but you were mighty close.
I sincerely hope this engine made it through the break-in process and all components were happy when all was said and done. I just wanted to identify all the places I've went wrong in the past and help with some suggestions. Happy motoring.
Rapaz. As varetas deviam tá entupidas ou algo mais sério no sistema de lubrificação.
Great engine i have a 1964 with a 194. May upgrade to 230 or 250.
And make sure the cam goes flat.🎉😂
Believe me I tried. I even used the most zinc-free oil I could find and resurfaced the cam lobes with a brillo pad. Somehow it's still going stong!
i have the same problem on a 1976 chevy nova councoours
350
any of your management?
Good engine
Creo que el motor no tiene aceite. Cuando un motor se prende sin la tapa de la cabeza. El aceite moja todo y no se mira aceite.
any updates on this ride?
Just bought one of these motors for a project
Hi where ur vac advance connection at? Thanks
Are you trying to wipe out the new cam ...if its new.
By far one of my favorite pastimes, but no- just cleaned up with new gaskets and a rebuilt cylinder head for hardened valve seats. Bottom end was untouched mechanically.
I'm honestly a little surprised you went with a 194. You cant seem to give those motors away. They aren't bad my any means but 200hp is about the best you'll make with one of those without mortgaging your house.
You are absolutely right. I had a 65 Nova with a 194. Yanked it out in favor of a small block and ended up giving the 194 away along with the 3 speed saginaw. The guy was happy to get it, so I guess some still like it.
It’s basically a Honda Civic motor. It ain’t fast but it will definitely get you where you’re going.
@@everydaytenor8862
I had a 65 Nova 194 engine...got ~25 mpg. These engines were very reliable...cheap and easy to maintain.
👍
Why didn't you pre oil those rocker arms to prevent a dry start?
Prime the rockers , just take out the distributer and put a drill on the shaft and run it until the oil comes out of the rockers.
Good idea
got that exact engine in my 1963 Chevy II. Got an oil flooded plug causing misfires. What is the seal I should change ? is it a little o ring somewhere?
Depends on how bad it is. There are o rings on the valve stems beneath the spring keepers, but if your plug is loaded with oil then you're likely to have other wear and oil consumption issues happening there.
alrighty! I would not say loaded but definitely wet. when i change said plug the engine will run smooth but burn oil for about 15 minutes before that plug wont fire anynore I suppose. causing the slight shaking i've always had. I guess I should change the ring on the intaka valve for that cilynder then? If the plug stays clean afterward good, orherwise I will need to have the engine checked I guess.
Well, I changed the plus again to put back some copper plugs (Double platinums were making it run like a harley davidson) and magically no oil on the plug! But my engine still run kinda rough and only has a vacuum of 10!
could it be as simple as timing?
Just got a 64 Nova SS with one of these engines in it. Been sitting in a barn for 36 years. Any tips for getting this car going again?
Sure, the first thing I'll check on a car that's been sitting a while is to see if the engine is free, and if you haven't tried turning it over yet with a fresh battery, then reach in and try to turn the bottom damper/front pulley by hand. It will be a bit stiff but manageable. If the engine is free it's going to save a lot of work.
The next step is involves removing the spark plugs and checking their condition. Do they look oily/greasy, or sooty? Dark soot or white soot? Expect to replace these anyway which will put you out for less than $10. While the plugs are out, I recommend applying a touch of upper cylinder lubricant, now, if the engine is stuck, make a mixture of 50% automatic transmission fluid to 50% Acetone. This will help break free any surface rust that has gotten the piston rings sticking to the cylinder wall after sitting for a couple of days, generally. If the engine turns over by hand, apply a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil to the cylinder. Just enough to cover the top of the piston, which is generally much less than an ounce.
The ignition contact points in the distributor are going to be oxidized and run you around trying to figure out why the engine won't fire. *Assuming* they were adjusted properly when the car was parked, then all that's needed usually is a brisk swipe of a very mild abrasive between the contacts. Match striker is perfect, 600 grit or higher sandpaper... don't use emery cloth or a file.
Last but not least you can count on the fuel system on a car sitting that long to be completely shot. With any good luck, the fuel tank is not rusted out, and if it was parked with fuel in the tank you can count on replacing it. Fuel will cause condensation inside the upper part of the tank & sending unit within only the first couple of years. If there's no fuel in it, you've got a chance, but the tank should still be removed and flushed out and it's condition determined. A quick solution just to try and get the motor to run: rig up a gravity feed "Fuel IV" you can hang underneath the open hood to supply the carburetor (which, also, will probably need to be rebuilt but you'll still be able to see if the engine will fire if it has problems.) This way you won't have to depend on any fuel pumps and at very least the engine will run on what fuel reaches and is contained in the carburetor fuel bowl. Alternately, if you have a spare electric fuel pump on hand, connect it using some fuel line directly to the carb and into a gas can to bypass the (bad) engine driven fuel pump, tank, and lines.
And be sure there's oil in the pan, too! Whatever's in there is fine just for a preliminary check, but will definitely need to be changed.
Justin Rubsam Thank you Justin! I'm just 19 and don't know a whole heck of a lot about restoring engines or cars in general, but this certainly sets me in the right direction.
I just started my 1967 nova 194 after sitting in garage for 20 years. Better get new points, plugs, cap and carb. My points were stuck shut. Get new gas tank...mine had gas and turned to black mush. Blow fuel line out with compressor. Now it runs like 1967 again.
Lewis Webber you’ve got a nova ss with a 6 cylinder in it? Lol
@@theeoddments960 they only came with sixes and four cylinder in the convertible years. all V8 nova convertibles are aftermarket V8 engines.
The paint on the valve springs,is why it wont start.
I had those powder coated. Started right up.
fascinating
@ 8:57 .... a question for you , how do you repair that oil leak?
blakebogo thats not a leak, its how the rockers get lubrication
Paint on the valve springs!
Pretty on the inside too :)
Hello brother i want to know please where can I get this engine 63 Chevy nova
I got one for ya
@@christopherjames5192 ok is it a new one or used
@@christopherjames5192 do you still have ot?
@@F.o.sundaydiary very used lol
@@brandonhowell1752 sure do. When I finish my 383 I bet I won’t be able to give it away.
You may need to re-cap it!! :) Otherwise, it sounds awesome!
After all that cranking and still no oil present at the rocker arms isnt a good thing!
Sounds like your cam may be a tooth off.
Omg came to say why didn't you preoil the rockers and head but first comment it see is that.... so, why didn't you? 🙃🤪😝
Have you ever heard of priming the oil pump of the engine with a drill while rotating the engine by hand and filling the carb bowl before attempting to start the engine so it has oil every where and starts relatively quickly? That IS NOT the best way to do a first start and just because it "seems" fine it is very likely to have a cam and or lifter failure with in 5-10k miles. ruclips.net/video/3Ekej01Oew8/видео.html
385MrBill internet mechanic
@@Shade_tree_garage01 he definitely worries too much
It so funny I'm here yelling at him to close the choke but he's not hearing me .. CLOSE THE CHOKE PLATE leave the key on and use your cranking switch outside ..Hey Car guy close the choke fully ..I'm really surprised you missed that massive vacuum leak at the Manifold bud it's these intellectual types that never seem to get even the simplest of things done because they are so busy throwing all that terminology at everything as they re event the wheel .. My lord dude really
I noted the wide open choke, too, and saw the bowl vent tube through which he could have filled the bowl, making starting happen with much less cranking. As I remarked in another video's comments, I wonder what they think the choke is for.
Damn. You’re spun up over an auto-choke lol
This guy doesn't have a clue!
Nope
Electric chokes suck
No sabes mecánica no sabes lo que haces lástima de motor